Date   

Re: Furler motor to gearbox sm2000

Aras Grinius
 

On my Sharki, I have a problem with my swivel (top of the mast).  Turns out the swivel was locked up.  It caused the tnages to crack and shear.  More importantly it also made the motor work really hard to furl the sail..
I took it to a machine shop and I am going to have it duplicated ( it's 32 years old) since it was original equipment. Nonetheless, I would check to see if your jib furler might be part of the issue.,

Aras
Shark #163 1988

On Sun, Nov 8, 2020 at 4:56 AM michael winand via groups.io <mfw642000=yahoo.com.au@groups.io> wrote:
Thanks  Danny.
I will drop the main to check the top swivel. 
When the furler stopped it was being unfurled. 
I used the winch handle to put the sail away and it was very easy to rotate the foil. 
The break looks like it's clean, ie not a partial break that has let go. But hard to tell. 
I  normally keep the outhaul  slack when furling in and out. Tight in a few spots to keep the sail neat when furling in.  Not sure if this could be my fault?.
The ratio of the gearbox,  makes me feel that the shaft that has sheared is unusual?  I was a little surprised by what I found, I was expecting to find that the leroy somer gearbox pinion gears were worn out in a section that stopped the worm from engaging. 
Regards Michael Nebo sm251 


On Sun, 8 Nov 2020 at 6:33 pm, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
<simms@...> wrote:

Friction causes over loading. So what are the posible friction points. Well there are the bearings in the gear box if they are not lubricated, a good starting point. But a much over looked one and more likely is the swivel at the topmof the sail. This gets encrusted with salt and can in the worst  case not rotate at all. It is more likely to be less extreme than that but can cause your problem. It will also cause the bolt hole a the bottom of the foil extrusion to elongate and even fracture. Solution. Lower the main sail to access the swivel. Thoroughly flush it with pressure fresh water, allow itv to dry, then liberally apply spay can silicon. This should be part of regular maintenance.

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 08 November 2020 at 21:15 "michael winand via groups.io" <mfw642000=yahoo.com.au@groups.io> wrote:


Hi.I have encountered this problem with my main furler motor. I have sheared the shaft on the leroy somer motor where it enters the gearbox. Any suggestions on how I would be causing this problem?The gearbox is still working well. As I have it apart I will give it a full service. I would like to ask if anyone has been through this issue and what action is needed to fix this. I'm not sure if this is a design that allows the shaft to be replaced as a sacrificial item to prevent overloading?I have taken a photo of the issue. Apon removal it was still the original installation. The electrical brushes still have most of their length intact. Many thanks to the group Michael  Nebo  sm251 




 



--
Aras Grinius


Re: Furler motor to gearbox sm2000

michael winand
 

Thanks  Danny.
I will drop the main to check the top swivel. 
When the furler stopped it was being unfurled. 
I used the winch handle to put the sail away and it was very easy to rotate the foil. 
The break looks like it's clean, ie not a partial break that has let go. But hard to tell. 
I  normally keep the outhaul  slack when furling in and out. Tight in a few spots to keep the sail neat when furling in.  Not sure if this could be my fault?.
The ratio of the gearbox,  makes me feel that the shaft that has sheared is unusual?  I was a little surprised by what I found, I was expecting to find that the leroy somer gearbox pinion gears were worn out in a section that stopped the worm from engaging. 
Regards Michael Nebo sm251 


On Sun, 8 Nov 2020 at 6:33 pm, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
<simms@...> wrote:

Friction causes over loading. So what are the posible friction points. Well there are the bearings in the gear box if they are not lubricated, a good starting point. But a much over looked one and more likely is the swivel at the topmof the sail. This gets encrusted with salt and can in the worst  case not rotate at all. It is more likely to be less extreme than that but can cause your problem. It will also cause the bolt hole a the bottom of the foil extrusion to elongate and even fracture. Solution. Lower the main sail to access the swivel. Thoroughly flush it with pressure fresh water, allow itv to dry, then liberally apply spay can silicon. This should be part of regular maintenance.

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 08 November 2020 at 21:15 "michael winand via groups.io" <mfw642000@...> wrote:


Hi.I have encountered this problem with my main furler motor. I have sheared the shaft on the leroy somer motor where it enters the gearbox. Any suggestions on how I would be causing this problem?The gearbox is still working well. As I have it apart I will give it a full service. I would like to ask if anyone has been through this issue and what action is needed to fix this. I'm not sure if this is a design that allows the shaft to be replaced as a sacrificial item to prevent overloading?I have taken a photo of the issue. Apon removal it was still the original installation. The electrical brushes still have most of their length intact. Many thanks to the group Michael  Nebo  sm251 




 


Re: Installing a diesel heater

Arnold Mente
 

It is in a good position in the upper area of the storage space (behind the backrest next to the electric winch motor and switch box) and the expansion tank is placed there with a hand hole with a lock and can be filled from the outside (cockpit).

Arnold

Am 07.11.2020 um 21:28 schrieb Paul Osterberg <osterberg.paul.l@...>:

Thank you!
What's the reason for having the heater in the cockpit locker and not in the engine room?
Paul



--
Arnold
SY Zephyr SM203


Re: Furler motor to gearbox sm2000

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Friction causes over loading. So what are the posible friction points. Well there are the bearings in the gear box if they are not lubricated, a good starting point. But a much over looked one and more likely is the swivel at the topmof the sail. This gets encrusted with salt and can in the worst  case not rotate at all. It is more likely to be less extreme than that but can cause your problem. It will also cause the bolt hole a the bottom of the foil extrusion to elongate and even fracture. Solution. Lower the main sail to access the swivel. Thoroughly flush it with pressure fresh water, allow itv to dry, then liberally apply spay can silicon. This should be part of regular maintenance.

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 08 November 2020 at 21:15 "michael winand via groups.io" <mfw642000@...> wrote:

Hi.I have encountered this problem with my main furler motor. I have sheared the shaft on the leroy somer motor where it enters the gearbox. Any suggestions on how I would be causing this problem?The gearbox is still working well. As I have it apart I will give it a full service. I would like to ask if anyone has been through this issue and what action is needed to fix this. I'm not sure if this is a design that allows the shaft to be replaced as a sacrificial item to prevent overloading?I have taken a photo of the issue. Apon removal it was still the original installation. The electrical brushes still have most of their length intact. Many thanks to the group Michael  Nebo  sm251 




 


Furler motor to gearbox sm2000

michael winand
 

Hi.I have encountered this problem with my main furler motor. 
I have sheared the shaft on the leroy somer motor where it enters the gearbox. 
Any suggestions on how I would be causing this problem?
The gearbox is still working well. As I have it apart I will give it a full service. 
I would like to ask if anyone has been through this issue and what action is needed to fix this. 
I'm not sure if this is a design that allows the shaft to be replaced as a sacrificial item to prevent overloading?I have taken a photo of the issue. 
Apon removal it was still the original installation. The electrical brushes still have most of their length intact. 
Many thanks to the group 
Michael  Nebo  sm251 





Re: BT seals

VICTOR MOLERO
 

Hello all.
I plan to change the oil and seals of the bow thruster in my SM. Can anyone tell me how much oil I need? Ant the type of oil?
Thanks in advance.
Victor
Alendoy SM #314


BT seals

david bruce
 

Hello All, 

 I had posted availability of 4 pr of the silicone seals that I had available from my order of 10 (min order size).  Since they have been spoken for and I have had some additional interest, I am posting the information I received from Jose regarding ordering them.  Perhaps someone else wants to place an order.  Ray seems very accommodating and will accept credit card.  

Best, 

Dave
Liesse
SN006


Begin forwarded message:

From: Jose Venegas <josegvenegas@...>
Subject: Re: BT seals
Date: October 24, 2020 at 5:28:46 PM PDT
To: david bruce <davidcbruce57@...>

Hi Dave, I am glad to hear that Steve is happy with the seals.  I still have the same ones and probably will last a few more years before I have to change them given that I am no longer moored at a marina, and thus causing minimal wear on them.  

As you could imagine, the order of the seals was easy but sending them and getting paid for them was a pain in the neck.  I still have my two new sets in addition to the older ones that are still working fine, so I am not envisioning purchasing more within the next 10 years.  

One thing I do is to avoid placing the pin on them while I am in a marina to prevent additional forces that could deform them over time.  I do put the pin as soon as I am out of the marina and take it out only before arriving.

Here is the information of my order and you can mention my name if that can help.  Also remind them to keep the dimensions as close as possible to the design;  in the last batch they were off a little bit on one of the dimensions, which did not affect the performance of the seals but it would be better if they follow the exact design.

Good luck,

Jose

10 pcs. Silicone wiper 59.5 x 80 x 4/12 =$ 31.65ea.
20 pcs.                          ditto                          =$ 29.75ea.
 
10 pcs. Silicone u-cup 59.5 x 80 x 12 = $ 32.50ea.
20 pcs.                          ditto                     =  $ 30 75ea.
Will need 14-17 business days to ship.      
 
Ray Romanick
200_logo_contact_2 email small
SSP Manufacturing Inc.
83 Spring Lane
Hackettstown, NJ 07840
Phone: 908-852-3125
Fax: 908-852-3425
1-888-238-SEAL
Web Page:www.sspseals.com





On Oct 24, 2020, at 6:09 PM, david bruce <davidcbruce57@...> wrote:

Hi Jose,   

I have been speaking with Steve Davis of Aloha and he is very pleased with the performance of the silicone seals that you had made.  I would like to use on my Santorin and Steve would like some extras for Aloha.  Are they at all available any more?  I know this was a lot of work for you and would understand if you didn’t want to be the broker for them any more but if this should be the case we (Steve and I) are wondering if it would be possible to get the specs and fabrication source information, and perhaps we could have another batch made.  

Thank you, hope all is well aboard Ipanema.

Best regards,

Dave Bruce
Liesse
Amel Santorin





Re: Installing a diesel heater

 

On Sat, Nov 7, 2020 at 2:28 PM Paul Osterberg <osterberg.paul.l@...> wrote:
Thank you!
What's the reason for having the heater in the cockpit locker and not in the engine room?
Paul


Re: Installing a diesel heater

Paul Osterberg
 

Thank you!
What's the reason for having the heater in the cockpit locker and not in the engine room?
Paul


Re: Installing a diesel heater

Arnold Mente
 

These are plate heat exchangers with a fan. Unfortunately, I don't have any pictures of the installation, only the cockpit and the backside of it! Left to the Autopilot!!

Arnold



Am 07.11.2020 um 20:44 schrieb Paul Osterberg <osterberg.paul.l@...>:

Thank you!
What kind of heat exchanger do you have in the cabins? Just convector elements or heat exchanger that blows air into the cabin?
Do you have any photos on the installation?
Paul SY Kerpa


--
Arnold
SY Zephyr SM203


Re: Installing a diesel heater

Paul Osterberg
 

Thank you!
What kind of heat exchanger do you have in the cabins? Just convector elements or heat exchanger that blows air into the cabin?
Do you have any photos on the installation?
Paul SY Kerpa


Re: Installing a diesel heater

Arnold Mente
 

Hi Paul,

I have an Eberpächer Hydronic heater on my SM with an outlet in all cabins, saloon and cockpit. The heating is also connected to the water heater, which requires an Isotemp with 2 heating circuits, a motor and diesel heating. This guarantees hot water preparation even without a motor under sail. We particularly recommend the outlet in the cockpit, which with a closed cockpit ensures a very pleasant temperature in the steering position. Also staying in the cockpit, eating ... is very pleasant. The heater was housed in my cockpit storage space and can be individually regulated in all areas via thermometers. I am very satisfied with this heater, since I already had both air and water heaters on my other boats, I would recommend the hydronic (water heater).

Best

Arnold
SV Zephyr
SM203

Am 07.11.2020 um 19:35 schrieb Paul Osterberg <osterberg.paul.l@...>:

Hello!
Plan a trip to Nordkapp next season and need to install a diesel heater in our SM (we do not have the forced ventilation). I have searched on the forum but did not find the information I was looking for.
Location of a diesel heater could be in the engine room or in the large cockpit locker. You who have a diesel heater where is it located?
One could choose either air or a water distributed heater, advantage with the water distributed heater, easier to install the water pipe, but the heat elements takes large place. the hot air heater duct takes a lot of space as diameter is 90 mm or about 3½ inch. 
So would very much appreciate you experience and recommendations when it comes to install a diesel heater 
Paul on SY Kerpa SM#259, Lagos, Portugal 


--
Arnold
SY Zephyr SM203


Re: Silicone BT seals

William O'Toole
 

Thanks to all for your responses. This site is an amazing resource. 

William Sent from my iPhone 

On Nov 7, 2020, at 3:47 AM, Barry Connor via groups.io <connor_barry@...> wrote:

Hi, this was on our 2006 Amel 54 when we bought in 2015. 
We thought it was a standard attached by Amel at build. Was very helpful when we first sailed but we do more checks now.
<image1.jpeg>
<image0.jpeg>


Very Best 

Barry and Penny
“SV Lady Penelope II”
Amel 54. #17
Sainte Anne anchorage Martinique 

On Nov 6, 2020, at 20:33, William O'Toole <william@...> wrote:

Was a private pilot and very familiar with check lists. But…in my sailing I never crossed the concept of checklist from flying pre-flight over to leaving the dock. Humbling realization. Anybody have a checklist for going bow to stern and back again that they could share?
-- 
William O'Toole 
President
EcoNomics, Inc.
832 Camino Del Mar, Suite 1
Del Mar, California   92014
(858) 793-9200 Main Office
(858) 886-6657 San Juan Capistrano Office
(805) 331-9591 Cellular

On Nov 6, 2020, at 4:15 PM, rossirossix4 <rossidesigngroup@...> wrote:

Absolutely agree on releasing the pin at the dock or anchorage and decompressing the seals.  On our boat, pulling the pin and flipping the down switch for as short a time as possible usually lowers it just enough to take the pressure off the seals. This leaves the pressure on the cable and the lowering motor mechanism but there is little force if the anchorage/dock is quiet.  I do the same on the hard except i don't like to leave it on the lifting cable/motor mechanism for such a long period of time.  In that case I use a split pin and rest it on that rather than the locking pin.  Because the split pin (AKA cotter key) is a smaller diameter you can rest it on the thinner spllit pin and the seals are not compressed as much.  This may not seem to be a significant distance but it really reduces the compression.  I think it is that tight, tight compression that gives a good seal--but, again--leaving it that way for a long time causes a problem.  Doing this seems to dramatically reduce the leak problem.

Regarding check lists, let me add that they way we prepare for departure is to start inside and go from bow to stern, then outside from bow to stern checking as we go.  So our first item is the bow thruster, windlass/genoa breaker, inside windlass switch, front hatch, cabinet latches, head hatch, toilet emptied, front bilge check......etc...etc.....ending with a look at the rudder quadrant and rear hatch.  We then do the exterior--bow to stern--starting with running lights, anchor, windlass....etc....ending with davits and stern light.  We do the engine room last.  For us, it is the easiest way to do a thorough check.

Bob and Suzanne, KAIMI  SM429


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: bow thruster service. Problem

Ian Park
 

Hi,
Not sure who you are. Sign of with name, name of boat, and type and hull number e.g.SN 01.
The seals are neoprene. I guess as a temporary measure you could cut them out of neoprene or an old wetsuit! There should be just one inside the boat visible where the shaft goes through the whole. If, as you say, there are two, then it is most likely that there is only one underneath, where there should be two. The previous owner may have installed them the wrong way round. This would also be a likely cause of water coming in.
I guess you might have looked up on the AMEL owner’s web site how to service the bow thruster and replace the seals. It is the same as the Super Maramu.
A couple of suggestions.
Take the pin out. Squeeze the cable as tight as you can and see how far the pin hole rises above where it should be. If it goes a long way (which it could if there is only one neoprene seal on the underside) then the clearly it cannot keep the water out. A temporary improvement can be made by tightening up the threaded nut at the top.
There is a post on how to do this adjustment on the AMEL site with photos. If you search Ocean Hobo bow thruster you should get there.
I don’t have the AMEL tool for lowering the bow thruster. It does do this job, but I also think it has to plug the top of the tube as this is where the oil reservoir is. You don’t want salt water getting in there!
I too have fitted a bilge pump next to my speed transducer in the forward toilet corridor. I fitted a small bore outlet pipe into the shower tray below the wooden grating. I get rain water in there too from the anchor chain hawse hole.
Good luck - it takes a couple of years to get to know all the systems on your Santorin. It is a great boat.

Ian
Ocean Hobo. SN96 currently locked down in Wales.


Installing a diesel heater

Paul Osterberg
 

Hello!
Plan a trip to Nordkapp next season and need to install a diesel heater in our SM (we do not have the forced ventilation). I have searched on the forum but did not find the information I was looking for.
Location of a diesel heater could be in the engine room or in the large cockpit locker. You who have a diesel heater where is it located?
One could choose either air or a water distributed heater, advantage with the water distributed heater, easier to install the water pipe, but the heat elements takes large place. the hot air heater duct takes a lot of space as diameter is 90 mm or about 3½ inch. 
So would very much appreciate you experience and recommendations when it comes to install a diesel heater 
Paul on SY Kerpa SM#259, Lagos, Portugal 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: bow thruster service. Problem

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

If you scroll to this illustration, you will see how is the Amel special took used (when you overhaul the bow thruster “in” the water):

http://supermaramu2000.com/bow_thruster_overhaul.html


Sincerely, Alexandre




On Saturday, November 7, 2020, 12:00:55 PM CST, Santorin LO via groups.io <santorinlo18@...> wrote:


Hi Group,

Just observed that water is coming through the main cylinder / shaft hole in the forward cabin picture 3 and pic headed "Removed the old seal (please note that I did not had the 2 retainer screws") in Alexanders document) when in wavy seas the hole is below the waterline.

Am currently on a relative long trip in Greece would and would prefer to do the full service when on the hard when done with my trip, will need to fix only this for  now and trying to find out the following:

a. Good to know - what would be the mercy practice for water coming through there on a long passage with no means to get spares and heavy leakage - of course shifting weight back, but anyway to seal it temporarily as it is?

b. Amel tool - what is the use of it? - push down the shat? lead it back to its position? can be done without? seen your direction for it Bill, but unless it is literally IN the the black housing which I didn't open - couldn't see it).

c. the neofoam seals - 2 outside, 1 inside -  meaning? I can see 2 between the shaft to the hole from the cabin, the 3rd on e is below the hole (from its ' sea side)?

d. the relevant problem seal mentioned above - is it only by delivery from Amel or could be found / made by spec - then what is the spec? same question for the neofoam seals.

Thank you all in advance 


Re: Cleaning fresh water tank on my SM2K

RIck Stanley
 

What we did on our SM2K - after we got access to all the hatches - was to first shock the tanks with bleach, then hit them all with a pressure sprayer. Worked like a champ, considering our boat was left up on the hard for 5+ years, and the tanks were black inside.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: bow thruster service. Problem

Santorin LO
 

Hi Group,

Just observed that water is coming through the main cylinder / shaft hole in the forward cabin picture 3 and pic headed "Removed the old seal (please note that I did not had the 2 retainer screws") in Alexanders document) when in wavy seas the hole is below the waterline.

Am currently on a relative long trip in Greece would and would prefer to do the full service when on the hard when done with my trip, will need to fix only this for  now and trying to find out the following:

a. Good to know - what would be the mercy practice for water coming through there on a long passage with no means to get spares and heavy leakage - of course shifting weight back, but anyway to seal it temporarily as it is?

b. Amel tool - what is the use of it? - push down the shat? lead it back to its position? can be done without? seen your direction for it Bill, but unless it is literally IN the the black housing which I didn't open - couldn't see it).

c. the neofoam seals - 2 outside, 1 inside -  meaning? I can see 2 between the shaft to the hole from the cabin, the 3rd on e is below the hole (from its ' sea side)?

d. the relevant problem seal mentioned above - is it only by delivery from Amel or could be found / made by spec - then what is the spec? same question for the neofoam seals.

Thank you all in advance 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: bow thruster service. Problem

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Good afternoon, 


Not sure the message was to me, but since my name is Alexandre, I thought I would answer!!!  


After 1 - 1.5 year, my bow thruster started to leak (water coming in while sailing) (I later realized it often started after I motor too quickly bow thruster down - but that is another story).  


First, I checked every day I used the boat and every 24 hour of sailing (when there was no known leak).  


Second, I added a “High water Alarm”, very practice when there is a leak, you are alerted when you have 15-20 liters of water


Third, I added a bilge pump to remove the water and put it in the head (bathroom - not toilet), which itself would go to the bilge and be emptied from there.   


You have all the pictures on:  

http://supermaramu2000.com/bilge_pump_high_water_alarm_bow_thruster.html


Sincerely, Alexandre (Currently in Geneva, Switzerland). 




On Saturday, November 7, 2020, 11:05:31 AM CST, Santorin LO via groups.io <santorinlo18@...> wrote:


Hi Alexander (or anyone else),
While on relatively long trip in Greece is that when the bow thruster hole (of the cylinder in the forward cabin - the 3rd picture of your page) is underwater (when pitching) - water is coming through. As limited with lifting her right now or perform full service to the bow thruster (no time to get spares etc...). Need to find a quick (but proper) fix to this seal while in the water.

My question are as follows:

a. Good to know - what would be the emergency practice to this problem middle of long passage? (except of shifting weight to stern) anyway to seal it from the top without removing anything?
b. The specific seal is only from Amel or could be found or made anywhere?
c. What is the Amel special tool for - only to lead the shaft/cylinder back to its hole? can the bow thruster be removed and back without?
d. Would it be relatively easy to replace the seal without the tool?

Getting to know our baby better and better...

Cheers


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: bow thruster service. Problem

Santorin LO
 

Hi Alexander (or anyone else),
While on relatively long trip in Greece is that when the bow thruster hole (of the cylinder in the forward cabin - the 3rd picture of your page) is underwater (when pitching) - water is coming through. As limited with lifting her right now or perform full service to the bow thruster (no time to get spares etc...). Need to find a quick (but proper) fix to this seal while in the water.

My question are as follows:

a. Good to know - what would be the emergency practice to this problem middle of long passage? (except of shifting weight to stern) anyway to seal it from the top without removing anything?
b. The specific seal is only from Amel or could be found or made anywhere?
c. What is the Amel special tool for - only to lead the shaft/cylinder back to its hole? can the bow thruster be removed and back without?
d. Would it be relatively easy to replace the seal without the tool?

Getting to know our baby better and better...

Cheers

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