Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Amel SM Capacitors

eric freedman
 

HI Colin,

The water pump should go on immediately when the AC unit is turned on.

If it does not , that is why the AC units shut down.

If you have replace the pump capacitor then I believe the problem is in the relay box.

There is a box port side behind the generator that has relays . when one AC unit is turned on the pump starts.

Each AC unit has a relay in the box.

I believe there is a fuse in that box. I believe the box is the problem.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, January 09, 2017 3:36 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Amel SM Capacitors

 

 

Hi Eric

 

Got the capacitors today but no time yet to install and test. (For the record cost here in Australia for the 10UF was $20.00 and I found the best place to get them was from an Electric Motor rewinding company. The Frigo-boat distributor for QLD couldn't source these for us.)

 

When we tried to run the aircon before replacing the capacitors the water pump would not switch on although the pump turns freely with a crew driver and we replaced the pump capacitor too.

 

The new capacitors will be fitted tomorrow so will see if that solves the problem.

 

Colin Streeter, 

Island Pearl II, Amel 53 #332

Brisbane

 

 

 

 

On Mon, Jan 9, 2017 at 8:43 AM, 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Colin,

Was the AC water pump working when you turned on a unit?

If that doesn’t start the units will shut down in about 15 seconds..

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2017 5:54 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Amel SM Capacitors

 

 

Hi all

 

Today I opened up all the 3 aircon units on Island Pearl II to take a closer look at the capacitators as after always working perfectly in the past, all three units developed the same problem at about the same time, ie. they would start then simply cut out after about 15 - 20 seconds after a click sound.

 

Interestingly after reading Gary's and Bill's posts on these some time back, and not getting the time to look at it properly till today, I opened up the units and in all three it was the 10UF capacitotors (located under the metal cover & cable tied to the larger 40UF units) that were blown.

 

As a matter of course I will purchase six of these right away so we have a spare on board for each aircon ahead of cruising north across the equator later this year. I will replace all three and assume that this will be the problem hopefully easily solved, however it troubles me that the exact same 10UF units blew on all three aircons...... hence my question to the group...

 

Why do you think all three 10UF capacitators would fail at the same time? Also, those who already replaced these (and I think the 10UF ones were also problematic on other boats in the forum) did the new ones run well for some time after, or should I expect that they will blow again soon? Lastly should one consider replacing the 10UF with perhaps a 14UF??? or is this unlikely to solve the issue and possibly introduce even more issues...?

 

Colin Streeter

Island Pearl II, Amel 53 # 332

Brisbane, Australia

 

.

 

On Wed, Jun 8, 2016 at 12:12 AM, amelliahona <no_reply@...> wrote:

 

Hi Everyone:

 

On my last trip I decided to check every capacitor on Liahona.  There are 21 of them that I know of:  5 each for each of the Amel original Climma AC units, 2 each for the 4th Climma AC I installed in the galley (by the way by far and away the best upgrade made to the boat), 2 on the Dessalitor HP pump, 1 each on the Dessalator BP (low pressure pump) and the Calpeda AC pump.  There are probably more that I have missed. 

 

I had to replace 7 of them due to either outright failure (2) or out of specification readings.  I'll post a file with a summary latter today of the specifications for all of these (assembled from actual replacements and or forum posts and in once case from Dessalator (as what they reported was different than what was actually on the original pump motor.

 

If anybody has knowledge of additional capacitors that I have missed please advise. 

 

Gary S. Silver

s/v Liahona 

Amel SM 2000 #335

Puerto Del Rey Marina - Puerto Rico



 

--

Colin Streeter

0411 016 445



 

--

Colin Streeter

0411 016 445


Re: Watermaker - Santorin - Sea Chest

Ian Park
 

Eric
Our Santorin already had a watermaker added (with an engine driven HP pump). An additional hole and seacock had been added plus a magnetic drive electric boost pump. I can't suggest how else you can pick up sea water. The toilet sea water is inside the watertight cabins, so that's a negative, and I wouldn't want to feed off the engine sea water pick up.
Ours is situated in line with the shaft generator pulley on the centreline of the boat tucked in close to the engine mounting frame ahead of the Vetus exhaust box.
I agree about not putting another hole in the boat, but it has not been an issue. It's 3 thru hull seacocks compared to 8 in my previous 37' production yacht! And I guess the SM has that 3rd hole for the sea chest intake, or does that provide the engine raw water intake as well?

Ian

Ocean Hobo SN96


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Yanmar 75HP - Cannot go over 2300 RPM

Colin - ex SV Island Pearl
 

Hi Dominique

We have the same Yanmar 75HP on hull #332. It has a Hurth ZF25 (HSW250H) gearbox with a 2.8: 1 ratio. Since you are hull # 374 it may or may not be a different box?

We have 1600 hrs on our motor and have not needed to recondition the Autoprop yet but whenever our prop is fouled, even slightly, the max engine revs decreases, and then on diving on the prop to clean it we go straight back up to 3500 - 3600 revs.

Since you are on the hard we assume though that your prop is clean so that is not your problem.

Colin Streeter, Island Pearl II
Amel 53 #332, Brisbane



On Mon, Jan 9, 2017 at 1:26 PM, songhui_ma@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Happy New Year 2017


Yanmar 4JH3-TE - 3600 hours - 1500 hours maintenance. 


A New Zealand mechanic replaced the injectors with Yanmar ones I provided and sourced in the US [Niemiec] Both mechanic and my US provider confirmed that it was the correct part #. 


However and since I cannot go over 2300 RPM.

The smoke is pretty transparent neither black or white. 


I browsed the internet, got a lot of ideas, but nothing which jumped out.

I suspect it is related to the Turbo - over 2300 RPM - that I have not used much and realized I should have.   


Suggestions greatly appreciated


Thanks

Dominique 

S/V Viva 

SM #374 

Opua, NZ 






--
Colin Streeter
0411 016 445


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Amel SM Capacitors

Colin - ex SV Island Pearl
 

Hi Eric

Got the capacitors today but no time yet to install and test. (For the record cost here in Australia for the 10UF was $20.00 and I found the best place to get them was from an Electric Motor rewinding company. The Frigo-boat distributor for QLD couldn't source these for us.)

When we tried to run the aircon before replacing the capacitors the water pump would not switch on although the pump turns freely with a crew driver and we replaced the pump capacitor too.

The new capacitors will be fitted tomorrow so will see if that solves the problem.

Colin Streeter, 
Island Pearl II, Amel 53 #332
Brisbane


 

On Mon, Jan 9, 2017 at 8:43 AM, 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi Colin,

Was the AC water pump working when you turned on a unit?

If that doesn’t start the units will shut down in about 15 seconds..

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2017 5:54 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Amel SM Capacitors

 

 

Hi all

 

Today I opened up all the 3 aircon units on Island Pearl II to take a closer look at the capacitators as after always working perfectly in the past, all three units developed the same problem at about the same time, ie. they would start then simply cut out after about 15 - 20 seconds after a click sound.

 

Interestingly after reading Gary's and Bill's posts on these some time back, and not getting the time to look at it properly till today, I opened up the units and in all three it was the 10UF capacitotors (located under the metal cover & cable tied to the larger 40UF units) that were blown.

 

As a matter of course I will purchase six of these right away so we have a spare on board for each aircon ahead of cruising north across the equator later this year. I will replace all three and assume that this will be the problem hopefully easily solved, however it troubles me that the exact same 10UF units blew on all three aircons...... hence my question to the group...

 

Why do you think all three 10UF capacitators would fail at the same time? Also, those who already replaced these (and I think the 10UF ones were also problematic on other boats in the forum) did the new ones run well for some time after, or should I expect that they will blow again soon? Lastly should one consider replacing the 10UF with perhaps a 14UF??? or is this unlikely to solve the issue and possibly introduce even more issues...?

 

Colin Streeter

Island Pearl II, Amel 53 # 332

Brisbane, Australia

 

.

 

On Wed, Jun 8, 2016 at 12:12 AM, amelliahona <no_reply@...> wrote:

 

Hi Everyone:

 

On my last trip I decided to check every capacitor on Liahona.  There are 21 of them that I know of:  5 each for each of the Amel original Climma AC units, 2 each for the 4th Climma AC I installed in the galley (by the way by far and away the best upgrade made to the boat), 2 on the Dessalitor HP pump, 1 each on the Dessalator BP (low pressure pump) and the Calpeda AC pump.  There are probably more that I have missed. 

 

I had to replace 7 of them due to either outright failure (2) or out of specification readings.  I'll post a file with a summary latter today of the specifications for all of these (assembled from actual replacements and or forum posts and in once case from Dessalator (as what they reported was different than what was actually on the original pump motor.

 

If anybody has knowledge of additional capacitors that I have missed please advise. 

 

Gary S. Silver

s/v Liahona 

Amel SM 2000 #335

Puerto Del Rey Marina - Puerto Rico



 

--

Colin Streeter

0411 016 445




--
Colin Streeter
0411 016 445


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Stern Bumper for SM2000

Colin - ex SV Island Pearl
 

We recently replaced our bumper with one sourced from Amel. There was a 2 year wait for this part but finally we got one. Being an Amel original part it was a easy 20 mins job to replace. Cost was around 475 euro plus freight to Brisbane.

Colin & Lauren Streeter
Island Pearl II, Amel 53 #332
Brisbane, Australia


On Mon, Jan 9, 2017 at 1:36 PM, songhui_ma@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hello, 


I have been sailing from the Med [2015 !] with a damaged bumper fixed with white duct tape. I would like to do better.  


Who can provide a bumper now days?


Is there any workaround/ solution e.g., a platform or other ?   


Thank you very much for your help 
Dominique 
S/V Viva 
#374
Opua, NZ 
+64 21 086 50 233 





--
Colin Streeter
0411 016 445


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water manifold replacement

amel46met
 

I made a new manifold out of PVC


On Jan 9, 2017, at 4:11 AM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

I just received one from Emek made if 316ss. They make them better and cheaper than anyone. You will need an accurate detail drawing with dimensions.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Jan 8, 2017 5:08 PM, "Bill & Judy Rouse" <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

316 stainless if it can be found.

On BeBe, SM 387 the green/yellow bonding wire is connected to the saltwater manifold. We do not have the refrigeration manifold.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Jan 8, 2017 5:01 PM, "mshirloo@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

Hi every one;

We seem to have a small leak in the secondary raw water manifold ( the one that feeds the refrigerator, water maker etc.). Since ours is 8 years old and have heard of boats this age and newer developing leaks, I am going to remove both, inspect and most likely replace with stainless steel. I'd like to get suggestions on stainless grade and thickness that others have used with good results.

Also one of the techs that I was talking to recommended a zinzc to be added on the manifold. It seems an unnecessary change to me. Has any one added a zinc in this area?

Thanks

Mohammad and Aty
AMEL 54 #099
B&B Kokomo


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Kent-vetus coupling

karkauai
 


Damn, Eric, I don't know.  I was sitting in the cockpit while the mechanic was doing the hands on work.
Kent


From: "'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners]"
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Monday, January 9, 2017 1:01 AM
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Kent-vetus coupling

 
Did the coupling have a keyway in it?
Fair Winds
Eric
Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
 
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, January 09, 2017 12:34 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Kent-vetus coupling
 
 
It came from Amel with the new C drive, Eric.  I didn't compare it closely with the old one, but they seemed to be the same.
Kent
 

From: "'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Sunday, January 8, 2017 11:55 PM
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Kent-vetus coupling
 
 
When you installed your yanmar did you use a stock Vetus coupling or did you purchase it from Amel?
Fair Winds
Eric
Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
 
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2017 11:33 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Replacing Vetus Coupling Bolts
 
 
Hi Eric,
The coupling needs to fit a 35mm shaft.  The 60mm is what the coupling housing would go over and is the "hub" of the coupling.  Thought that bit of info might be helpful.  
 
Not sure if it pertains to your project but an earlier posting made me think that the stock Vetus couplings would not work for the later SMs with Yanmars.  It stated--from posting number 22356-- "Pat We have been down this road using the Standard Vetus coupling you describe. It does not fit. We ordered ours from Amel as they have a special build. The one in the catalog is approx. 5MM to long and it can not be shortened to make it fit. Paul & Susan LaFrance SV NOMAD SM#362". 
 
I'll include this for thread continuity on the replacement of the coupling bollts--Regarding my project to replace the bushings using bolts threaded at both ends, an email to Danny (with a Volvo engine) confirmed that he was able to replace the bolts by sliding the engine back, splitting the coupling, replacing the rubber bushings and then sliding the bolts through before reassembling the 2 coupling housings.  Interesting--he did this in Tonga and could not obtain the bushings so he carved come out of truck suspension bushings and they worked fine for several years, showing no wear when he replaced them with the Vetus bushings.
 
A question I still have is how the Vetus hub is removed from the shaft coming from the C drive (especially for the Yanmar era SMs).  Is it removed by drilling out a pin in the hub? Any gurus out there with an answer?
 
I plan to post some pic of our bushing replacement project one I have the bushings and can complete the project.
 
Bob, KAIMI
SM 429
 
 



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Kent-vetus coupling

eric freedman
 

Did the coupling have a keyway in it?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, January 09, 2017 12:34 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Kent-vetus coupling

 

 

It came from Amel with the new C drive, Eric.  I didn't compare it closely with the old one, but they seemed to be the same.

Kent

 


From: "'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Sunday, January 8, 2017 11:55 PM
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Kent-vetus coupling

 

 

When you installed your yanmar did you use a stock Vetus coupling or did you purchase it from Amel?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2017 11:33 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Replacing Vetus Coupling Bolts

 

 

Hi Eric,

The coupling needs to fit a 35mm shaft.  The 60mm is what the coupling housing would go over and is the "hub" of the coupling.  Thought that bit of info might be helpful.  

 

Not sure if it pertains to your project but an earlier posting made me think that the stock Vetus couplings would not work for the later SMs with Yanmars.  It stated--from posting number 22356-- "Pat We have been down this road using the Standard Vetus coupling you describe. It does not fit. We ordered ours from Amel as they have a special build. The one in the catalog is approx. 5MM to long and it can not be shortened to make it fit. Paul & Susan LaFrance SV NOMAD SM#362". 

 

I'll include this for thread continuity on the replacement of the coupling bollts--Regarding my project to replace the bushings using bolts threaded at both ends, an email to Danny (with a Volvo engine) confirmed that he was able to replace the bolts by sliding the engine back, splitting the coupling, replacing the rubber bushings and then sliding the bolts through before reassembling the 2 coupling housings.  Interesting--he did this in Tonga and could not obtain the bushings so he carved come out of truck suspension bushings and they worked fine for several years, showing no wear when he replaced them with the Vetus bushings.

 

A question I still have is how the Vetus hub is removed from the shaft coming from the C drive (especially for the Yanmar era SMs).  Is it removed by drilling out a pin in the hub? Any gurus out there with an answer?

 

I plan to post some pic of our bushing replacement project one I have the bushings and can complete the project.

 

Bob, KAIMI

SM 429

 

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Yanmar 75HP - Cannot go over 2300 RPM

eric freedman
 

I had the same problem with Kimberlite. Even though when I hauled her and tried to wiggle the blades of the autoprop they seemed normal. After exhausting all other possibilities , I spend a day and rebuilt the autoprop.

Voila back to 3500 rpm. I also rebuilt the prop at about 3500 hours.

The autoprop is a sensitive beast and the slightest out of balance will kill your rpm.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, January 09, 2017 12:18 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Yanmar 75HP - Cannot go over 2300 RPM

 

 

Hi Vlad and Dominique,

AutoProps require regular maintenance.  If you haven't done that in a couple of years, that may be your problem.  There are some other threads on this forum that discuss this vis a vis low rpm.  Just spinning the blades on the hub doesn't tell you much.  They can feel perfectly free wheeling, and still be a problem.

If you don't run your engine hard on a regular basis, you can get a serious buildup of carbon in the turbo and exhaust elbow.  That's the second place to look.

Let us know what you find.

Kent

 


From: "Vladimir Sonsev sonsev52@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Sunday, January 8, 2017 11:21 PM
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Yanmar 75HP - Cannot go over 2300 RPM

 

 

Hi Dominique,

I also have 75 HP YANMAR engine 4JH3-TE. I also can't develop more than 2200-2500 RPM.
I am discussing this problem with Autoprop.  I suspect that perhaps prop provides to much torque load.

Autoprop ask me for transmission gear ratio. The label on my transmission is gone. I requested this information from Amel. I am waiting for a reply now.

Autoprop also ask me to conduct some tests. I can't do the tests now because my boat is on hard.
I will keep you posted.

Vladimir
SM#345 "LIFE IS GOOD"

 

On Jan 8, 2017 10:26 PM, "songhui_ma@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Happy New Year 2017

 

Yanmar 4JH3-TE - 3600 hours - 1500 hours maintenance. 

 

A New Zealand mechanic replaced the injectors with Yanmar ones I provided and sourced in the US [Niemiec] Both mechanic and my US provider confirmed that it was the correct part #. 

 

However and since I cannot go over 2300 RPM.

The smoke is pretty transparent neither black or white. 

 

I browsed the internet, got a lot of ideas, but nothing which jumped out.

I suspect it is related to the Turbo - over 2300 RPM - that I have not used much and realized I should have.   

 

Suggestions greatly appreciated

 

Thanks

Dominique 

S/V Viva 

SM #374 

Opua, NZ 

 

 

 


Re: Santorin - shaft altenator

ericmeury@...
 

Do not run the engine and  put the key in the shaft alternator "ignition" at the same time.  The separate keys should be on a welded loop.


Watermaker - Santorin - Sea Chest

ericmeury@...
 

Well, we finally bought a water maker.  We ended up finding a spectra watermaker (Capehorn) that somebody pulled out of their boat and offered it to us for $500 bucks.  (Since we do not have a generator and soon to be 100%(ish) solar and wind it was the logical choice)


So now the question is how do we feed this.  I know on the super marama there is a sea chest (Raw water manifiold)...but our santorin has a vetus plastic strainer.


What are my options here.  I don't want to put another hole in the boat.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Kent-vetus coupling

karkauai
 

It came from Amel with the new C drive, Eric.  I didn't compare it closely with the old one, but they seemed to be the same.
Kent



From: "'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Sunday, January 8, 2017 11:55 PM
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Kent-vetus coupling

 
When you installed your yanmar did you use a stock Vetus coupling or did you purchase it from Amel?
Fair Winds
Eric
Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
 
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2017 11:33 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Replacing Vetus Coupling Bolts
 
 
Hi Eric,
The coupling needs to fit a 35mm shaft.  The 60mm is what the coupling housing would go over and is the "hub" of the coupling.  Thought that bit of info might be helpful.  
 
Not sure if it pertains to your project but an earlier posting made me think that the stock Vetus couplings would not work for the later SMs with Yanmars.  It stated--from posting number 22356-- "Pat We have been down this road using the Standard Vetus coupling you describe. It does not fit. We ordered ours from Amel as they have a special build. The one in the catalog is approx. 5MM to long and it can not be shortened to make it fit. Paul & Susan LaFrance SV NOMAD SM#362". 


I'll include this for thread continuity on the replacement of the coupling bollts--Regarding my project to replace the bushings using bolts threaded at both ends, an email to Danny (with a Volvo engine) confirmed that he was able to replace the bolts by sliding the engine back, splitting the coupling, replacing the rubber bushings and then sliding the bolts through before reassembling the 2 coupling housings.  Interesting--he did this in Tonga and could not obtain the bushings so he carved come out of truck suspension bushings and they worked fine for several years, showing no wear when he replaced them with the Vetus bushings.


A question I still have is how the Vetus hub is removed from the shaft coming from the C drive (especially for the Yanmar era SMs).  Is it removed by drilling out a pin in the hub? Any gurus out there with an answer?


I plan to post some pic of our bushing replacement project one I have the bushings and can complete the project.


Bob, KAIMI
SM 429
 



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Yanmar 75HP - Cannot go over 2300 RPM

karkauai
 

Hi Vlad and Dominique,
AutoProps require regular maintenance.  If you haven't done that in a couple of years, that may be your problem.  There are some other threads on this forum that discuss this vis a vis low rpm.  Just spinning the blades on the hub doesn't tell you much.  They can feel perfectly free wheeling, and still be a problem.
If you don't run your engine hard on a regular basis, you can get a serious buildup of carbon in the turbo and exhaust elbow.  That's the second place to look.
Let us know what you find.
Kent



From: "Vladimir Sonsev sonsev52@... [amelyachtowners]"
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Sunday, January 8, 2017 11:21 PM
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Yanmar 75HP - Cannot go over 2300 RPM

 
Hi Dominique,
I also have 75 HP YANMAR engine 4JH3-TE. I also can't develop more than 2200-2500 RPM.
I am discussing this problem with Autoprop.  I suspect that perhaps prop provides to much torque load.
Autoprop ask me for transmission gear ratio. The label on my transmission is gone. I requested this information from Amel. I am waiting for a reply now.
Autoprop also ask me to conduct some tests. I can't do the tests now because my boat is on hard.
I will keep you posted.
Vladimir
SM#345 "LIFE IS GOOD"

On Jan 8, 2017 10:26 PM, "songhui_ma@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
Happy New Year 2017

Yanmar 4JH3-TE - 3600 hours - 1500 hours maintenance. 

A New Zealand mechanic replaced the injectors with Yanmar ones I provided and sourced in the US [Niemiec] Both mechanic and my US provider confirmed that it was the correct part #. 

However and since I cannot go over 2300 RPM.
The smoke is pretty transparent neither black or white. 

I browsed the internet, got a lot of ideas, but nothing which jumped out.
I suspect it is related to the Turbo - over 2300 RPM - that I have not used much and realized I should have.   

Suggestions greatly appreciated

Thanks
Dominique 
S/V Viva 
SM #374 
Opua, NZ 





Kent-vetus coupling

eric freedman
 

When you installed your yanmar did you use a stock Vetus coupling or did you purchase it from Amel?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2017 11:33 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Replacing Vetus Coupling Bolts

 

 

Hi Eric,

The coupling needs to fit a 35mm shaft.  The 60mm is what the coupling housing would go over and is the "hub" of the coupling.  Thought that bit of info might be helpful.  

 

Not sure if it pertains to your project but an earlier posting made me think that the stock Vetus couplings would not work for the later SMs with Yanmars.  It stated--from posting number 22356-- "Pat We have been down this road using the Standard Vetus coupling you describe. It does not fit. We ordered ours from Amel as they have a special build. The one in the catalog is approx. 5MM to long and it can not be shortened to make it fit. Paul & Susan LaFrance SV NOMAD SM#362". 



I'll include this for thread continuity on the replacement of the coupling bollts--Regarding my project to replace the bushings using bolts threaded at both ends, an email to Danny (with a Volvo engine) confirmed that he was able to replace the bolts by sliding the engine back, splitting the coupling, replacing the rubber bushings and then sliding the bolts through before reassembling the 2 coupling housings.  Interesting--he did this in Tonga and could not obtain the bushings so he carved come out of truck suspension bushings and they worked fine for several years, showing no wear when he replaced them with the Vetus bushings.



A question I still have is how the Vetus hub is removed from the shaft coming from the C drive (especially for the Yanmar era SMs).  Is it removed by drilling out a pin in the hub? Any gurus out there with an answer?



I plan to post some pic of our bushing replacement project one I have the bushings and can complete the project.



Bob, KAIMI

SM 429

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Replacing Vetus Coupling Bolts

rossirossix4
 

Hi Eric,
The coupling needs to fit a 35mm shaft.  The 60mm is what the coupling housing would go over and is the "hub" of the coupling.  Thought that bit of info might be helpful.  

Not sure if it pertains to your project but an earlier posting made me think that the stock Vetus couplings would not work for the later SMs with Yanmars.  It stated--from posting number 22356-- "Pat We have been down this road using the Standard Vetus coupling you describe. It does not fit. We ordered ours from Amel as they have a special build. The one in the catalog is approx. 5MM to long and it can not be shortened to make it fit. Paul & Susan LaFrance SV NOMAD SM#362". 

I'll include this for thread continuity on the replacement of the coupling bollts--Regarding my project to replace the bushings using bolts threaded at both ends, an email to Danny (with a Volvo engine) confirmed that he was able to replace the bolts by sliding the engine back, splitting the coupling, replacing the rubber bushings and then sliding the bolts through before reassembling the 2 coupling housings.  Interesting--he did this in Tonga and could not obtain the bushings so he carved come out of truck suspension bushings and they worked fine for several years, showing no wear when he replaced them with the Vetus bushings.

A question I still have is how the Vetus hub is removed from the shaft coming from the C drive (especially for the Yanmar era SMs).  Is it removed by drilling out a pin in the hub? Any gurus out there with an answer?

I plan to post some pic of our bushing replacement project one I have the bushings and can complete the project.

Bob, KAIMI
SM 429
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Yanmar 75HP - Cannot go over 2300 RPM

VLADIMIR SONSEV
 

Hi Dominique,

I also have 75 HP YANMAR engine 4JH3-TE. I also can't develop more than 2200-2500 RPM.
I am discussing this problem with Autoprop.  I suspect that perhaps prop provides to much torque load.

Autoprop ask me for transmission gear ratio. The label on my transmission is gone. I requested this information from Amel. I am waiting for a reply now.

Autoprop also ask me to conduct some tests. I can't do the tests now because my boat is on hard.
I will keep you posted.

Vladimir
SM#345 "LIFE IS GOOD"


On Jan 8, 2017 10:26 PM, "songhui_ma@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Happy New Year 2017


Yanmar 4JH3-TE - 3600 hours - 1500 hours maintenance. 


A New Zealand mechanic replaced the injectors with Yanmar ones I provided and sourced in the US [Niemiec] Both mechanic and my US provider confirmed that it was the correct part #. 


However and since I cannot go over 2300 RPM.

The smoke is pretty transparent neither black or white. 


I browsed the internet, got a lot of ideas, but nothing which jumped out.

I suspect it is related to the Turbo - over 2300 RPM - that I have not used much and realized I should have.   


Suggestions greatly appreciated


Thanks

Dominique 

S/V Viva 

SM #374 

Opua, NZ 




Stern Bumper for SM2000

Songhui Ma
 

Hello, 


I have been sailing from the Med [2015 !] with a damaged bumper fixed with white duct tape. I would like to do better.  


Who can provide a bumper now days?


Is there any workaround/ solution e.g., a platform or other ?   


Thank you very much for your help 
Dominique 
S/V Viva 
#374
Opua, NZ 
+64 21 086 50 233 



Yanmar 75HP - Cannot go over 2300 RPM

Songhui Ma
 

Happy New Year 2017


Yanmar 4JH3-TE - 3600 hours - 1500 hours maintenance. 


A New Zealand mechanic replaced the injectors with Yanmar ones I provided and sourced in the US [Niemiec] Both mechanic and my US provider confirmed that it was the correct part #. 


However and since I cannot go over 2300 RPM.

The smoke is pretty transparent neither black or white. 


I browsed the internet, got a lot of ideas, but nothing which jumped out.

I suspect it is related to the Turbo - over 2300 RPM - that I have not used much and realized I should have.   


Suggestions greatly appreciated


Thanks

Dominique 

S/V Viva 

SM #374 

Opua, NZ 




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Raw water manifold replacement

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

If you place a zinc on the manifold and also leave the manifold connected to the bonding system, that zinc will be the closest zinc to all items in the bonding system and will deteriorate before the rudder zincs.

Yes, it can't hurt, but I would not advise it if the manifold is connected to the bonding system.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Jan 8, 2017 7:47 PM, "greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

316 SS is good, 316L is even better--if you can find it.  The key with either is the quality of the welding.


An equally good alternative is to make one from bronze pipe fittings. The exact shape isn't critical, and the parts are easily found.  You do have to be careful that ALL the pieces are REAL bronze.  Some places carry brass fittings under the catalog heading of bronze and using those would be bad...

Putting a zinc in can't hurt with either stainless or bronze.  The grounding wire will help protect from stray current corrosion, but the boat's zinc is way too far away to protect the piece from internal galvanic corrosion. 

Properly made, and protected from stray current problems, either stainless or bronze should outlast the boat.

Bill Kinney
S/V Harmonie SM#160
Rose Island, Bahamas


Re: Raw water manifold replacement

greatketch@...
 

316 SS is good, 316L is even better--if you can find it.  The key with either is the quality of the welding.

An equally good alternative is to make one from bronze pipe fittings. The exact shape isn't critical, and the parts are easily found.  You do have to be careful that ALL the pieces are REAL bronze.  Some places carry brass fittings under the catalog heading of bronze and using those would be bad...

Putting a zinc in can't hurt with either stainless or bronze.  The grounding wire will help protect from stray current corrosion, but the boat's zinc is way too far away to protect the piece from internal galvanic corrosion. 

Properly made, and protected from stray current problems, either stainless or bronze should outlast the boat.

Bill Kinney
S/V Harmonie SM#160
Rose Island, Bahamas