Date   
Re: Bow thruster service SPECIAL TOOL

 

These set screws are a common size and can be purchased at any shop that sells bolts, nuts, and screws.

  --
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   
View My Training Calendar



On Tue, Feb 4, 2020 at 9:24 AM Bernd Spanner <bernd.spanner@...> wrote:
Thanks Bill
the screws are missing. 
--
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal


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Re: Bow thruster service SPECIAL TOOL

Bernd Spanner
 

Thanks Bill
the screws are missing. 
--
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal

Re: Bow thruster service SPECIAL TOOL

 

Bernd,

Here is part of the page from my book:
image.png


--
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   
View My Training Calendar

On Tue, Feb 4, 2020 at 8:02 AM Bernd Spanner <bernd.spanner@...> wrote:
 
 
Hi, I just prepared erverything to service the bowthruster on my SN. Now I have connected the special tool to lower it in the water but....
how do I secure the special tool???
I only have the tool but not bolts etc.
--
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal


--
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   
View My Training Calendar
cloudHQPowered by
cloudHQ

Bow thruster service SPECIAL TOOL

Bernd Spanner
 

 
 
Hi, I just prepared erverything to service the bowthruster on my SN. Now I have connected the special tool to lower it in the water but....
how do I secure the special tool???
I only have the tool but not bolts etc.
--
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal

Re: genoa sheet track end cap/pulley block

John Clark
 

Thanks Alan and Mike,
    Looks like Annie is slightly different that #23 and #437 in that there was no eye bolt and the stud is threaded on the top, with no bolt head. Maybe previous owner modification, who knows. 
 Based on what you guys said, I took a leap of faith that the stud on Annie was also threaded on the bottom and deployed the impact wrench on the triple nutted (nuts locked in place by each other) stud.  It took a few seconds of "impacting" before she started to back out.  After cleaning the threads, the stud screwed into the aluminum track  by smoothly by hand. 

FYI for any others tacking this job, the stud is threaded into the aluminium track and bottoms out at the surface of the hull. On Annie there is no penetration below the deck.   It is not threaded or attached to the black anodized block...except by salt and corrosion.  Same salt and corrosion further down probably resisted me turning it by hand.   Will utilize TefGel on the reassembly so that I don't have this fight again.  

Now to reassembly and clean up.  The birds and my liberal use of Corrosion X pretreatment have made a mess on the boat.  

John Clark
SV Annie SM 37
Brunswick GA

Re: genoa sheet track end cap/pulley block

 

Eye bolt is to connect the preventer. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School - www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Tue, Feb 4, 2020, 2:34 AM Alan Leslie <s.v.elyse@...> wrote:
Hi John,
If yours is like ours, which I'm sure it probably is, the bolt, in our case an eye bolt, passes through the track and is threaded into the steel plate which is under the gunwale.
I broke one trying to undo it and ended up having to drill it out with a cobalt drill and re - threading the hole. I just put a standard bolt in to replace it. I don't know what that eye bolt is for, I've never used it.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437

Re: Replacement windscreens

Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown
 

Barry,

 

They used my old ones as template for the new ones, and made them identical in every respect, holes, grooves etc, except for the very slight curve but that has not been a problem and I’m told it won’t take long for them to develop the curve naturally. If you want to add a gas strut then I would suggest you do that first to the old ones so that they can be used as a template. I wonder if the substance they spilt was Methyl Ethyl Ketone?

 

Cheers,

Paul

S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Barry Connor via Groups.Io
Sent: 04 February 2020 08:13
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Replacement windscreens

 

Hi Paul,

Thank you for this contact, we have just arrived in Barbados and will be going to Grenada sometime soon.

I am looking to get mine replaced after some acid type liquid was dropped over mine recently during washing by inexperienced cleaners in Tunisia.

The early 54’s only have one gas strut (300n) and the rubber seal is in a groove on the underside of the plastic. Your 54 has two gas struts (170n each).

For your information, Your gas struts are available from Amel Hyeres. They offer in stainless steel 170n and 200n but not 300n. When I replace mine I will probably change to the two struts.

 Did they cut the groove in the plastic for the rubber seal? Did they cut the holes in the plastic for the gas struts and hinge brackets? 

I will probably claim on insurance for these as the cleaners also spilt this acid type liquid over my hatches and port windows.

Looking forward to hearing back from you.

Best 

 

Barry and Penny

“Lady Penelope II”

Amel 54. #17

Port St Charles,  Barbados 



On Feb 3, 2020, at 13:04, Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...> wrote:



I had new wind screens made at Driftwood in Clarks Court Bay, Grenada – photo attached. The quality seems very good and they fit perfectly. They are slightly darker than the originals. They di initially quote me USD480 for the pair, but then said it took a lot longer to make them and the cost increased to 895, but in the end a compromise was made at 620.

 

 

Cheers,

Paul

S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98

 


--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98

<IMG_2779.jpg>


--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98

Re: Replacement windscreens

Barry Connor
 

Hi Paul,
Thank you for this contact, we have just arrived in Barbados and will be going to Grenada sometime soon.
I am looking to get mine replaced after some acid type liquid was dropped over mine recently during washing by inexperienced cleaners in Tunisia.
The early 54’s only have one gas strut (300n) and the rubber seal is in a groove on the underside of the plastic. Your 54 has two gas struts (170n each).
For your information, Your gas struts are available from Amel Hyeres. They offer in stainless steel 170n and 200n but not 300n. When I replace mine I will probably change to the two struts.
 Did they cut the groove in the plastic for the rubber seal? Did they cut the holes in the plastic for the gas struts and hinge brackets? 
I will probably claim on insurance for these as the cleaners also spilt this acid type liquid over my hatches and port windows.
Looking forward to hearing back from you.
Best 

Barry and Penny
“Lady Penelope II”
Amel 54. #17
Port St Charles,  Barbados 


On Feb 3, 2020, at 13:04, Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...> wrote:



I had new wind screens made at Driftwood in Clarks Court Bay, Grenada – photo attached. The quality seems very good and they fit perfectly. They are slightly darker than the originals. They di initially quote me USD480 for the pair, but then said it took a lot longer to make them and the cost increased to 895, but in the end a compromise was made at 620.

 

 

Cheers,

Paul

S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98

 


--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98
<IMG_2779.jpg>

Re: genoa sheet track end cap/pulley block

Alan Leslie
 

Hi John,
If yours is like ours, which I'm sure it probably is, the bolt, in our case an eye bolt, passes through the track and is threaded into the steel plate which is under the gunwale.
I broke one trying to undo it and ended up having to drill it out with a cobalt drill and re - threading the hole. I just put a standard bolt in to replace it. I don't know what that eye bolt is for, I've never used it.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437

Re: genoa sheet track end cap/pulley block

Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy)
 

Hi John,

I think our genoa track set ups are similar but perhaps yours has been modified or repaired here? I haven't taken on this project yet but it's on my list. Looking at mine, it looks like a regular bolt comes down from the top. Did yours have a nut at the top of that stud?

I'll be taking a closer look at mine soon and will let you know what I find.

Mike Longcor
SV Trilogy - SM23
Opua, NZ


On Tue, Feb 4, 2020, 9:28 AM John Clark via Groups.Io <biohead=rocketmail.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi All,
   I have finally gotten around to replacing the genoa sheet cars and have hit some unanticipated trouble.   Thanks to the Forum I was well prepared for releasing the rail stanchon which went without a hitch.  I am however stuck on how to remove the pulley block at the end of the track.  See picture attached to this post.   Annie does not have an eye-bolt on top of the pulley like later SMs...I am berthed next door to SV Ripple an SM2k which has the eye-bolt Annie has a stud with a bolt on top.

Following some earlier posts about bolts inside the hull I felt around under the deck and can feel the ends of the T-track bolts and what I think is the same end of the pulley-block bolt.  Not nuts in there only the bolt ends leading me to believe the bolt is threaded on both sides and will back out.  I double nutted the top and tried to break it free to no avail. 

Anyone have insight on how to detach this block?

John Clark
SV Annie  SM37
Brunswick GA....till I get this fixed. 

 

Re: New Owners - 1996 SM #180

Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy)
 

Congrats Jer!

We replaced our old galley fridge last year with an Isotherm CR130EL sourced from Marine Warehouse (we were in Panama at the time but I think they are Florida based). It was a good fit and most models are 12/24V and can switch to A.C. power (120/240V 50/60Hz) when on generator or shore power. We reused the mounting gear from the old Electrolux fridge without too much hassle.

For the under seat fridge/freezer, it's usually the electronic control unit or the cooling fan that cause problems. Finding a replacement for the control unit can be tricky and expensive. While we were in USA, we found a 24V replacement online from Coastal Climate Control for $285 (part# E254424). It has been working great for over 2 years now. For cooling fans, you can use pretty much any low amp computer cooling fan that's 24V. We are using one now by Yate Loon that's 2400rpm 0.3A 90CFM 43dBA but there are lots of options out there. We took out the old fan/motor and used strong mounting Velcro to mount the new fan to the horizontal crossbar. The compressor, condenser, evaporator, thermostat, etc were all in fine working order for us. The compressor is especially robust but I would check the electrical resistance/continuity of the pins (sorry I can't find the procedure/values at the moment). Also you might want to have the refrigerant system checked (charged and not leaking) before replacing components.

If your toilets are Raritan PHII, I think those are great toilets, despite being manual. There are kits available to rebuild them like new. I haven't had any issues with mine and only replaced a couple o-rings and seals. Might be worthwhile to try before going electric/macerator.

Hope this helps!

Cheers,
Mike Longcor
SV Trilogy - SM23
Opua, NZ


On Tue, Feb 4, 2020, 1:17 AM mr_hermanns <jeremy@...> wrote:

Hello fellow Amelians!

My Wife and I have purchased SM#180 (Anni Bea True).

She's a project boat for sure, and has almost all original systems except for an Yanmar engine upgrade (similar to the one on Cerulean my Maramu #105.).

Having been a Amel Maramu owner for the past 8+ years, I'm quickly learning the differences between 'Super' and 'OG' Maramu models. As well as the nuances of each boat for the first time - which is very exciting!!!

We've already had a heck of a time upgrading all the electronics with:
- B&G Zeus Chartplotters
- Dumping the old green CRT Furuno with a Halo Radar unit
- All new Tritons in cockpit
- Working depth transducer (went out every 10-15minutes intermittently)
- New Olympic 135 Compass
(yes, believe it or not she had a non functioning and zero oil Olympic 135)
- Replacing old sonic speed indicator
- Side Scan sonar install
- Replacing running rigging (90% chafed halyards, improperly rigged travelers and almost every other line you can think of was worn and showing signs of fatigue) we even blew out the old Bosuns chair safety line when putting new wind wand on mast!

There is much more to even mention, but will wait for later posts to address and mention.

Status: Been heading down east coast of US over past 2 weeks offshore (purchased in Annapolis and now in Ft Lauderdale) and planning to transit the canal in the next month on our way back to Marina Del Rey (our home) via MX.

Just wanted to reintroduce myself and looking forward to working through the many issues we encounter with you all and learn from the amazing collective wisdom of the group.

Things we can get advice on:
- Fridge and Freezer are on LAST legs, with the Galley fridge being a top priority with dead cold plates.
*Any recos on 24v suppliers or people to help while we are in FL!?
- Toilets are original 1996/1997 and looking to upgrade to self macerating prob.


Note: I’m sadly selling Cerulean Maramu #105 after almost a decade of upgrades and getting her to past new condition. Inquire if interested....literally no expense spared and BETTER than new.

Cheers,
Jer
--
Jeremy Hermanns - "Jer"
SVCerulean.com
Maramu #105
+
New: SM #180 Owner

Marina Del Rey, CA

genoa sheet track end cap/pulley block

John Clark
 

Hi All,
   I have finally gotten around to replacing the genoa sheet cars and have hit some unanticipated trouble.   Thanks to the Forum I was well prepared for releasing the rail stanchon which went without a hitch.  I am however stuck on how to remove the pulley block at the end of the track.  See picture attached to this post.   Annie does not have an eye-bolt on top of the pulley like later SMs...I am berthed next door to SV Ripple an SM2k which has the eye-bolt Annie has a stud with a bolt on top.

Following some earlier posts about bolts inside the hull I felt around under the deck and can feel the ends of the T-track bolts and what I think is the same end of the pulley-block bolt.  Not nuts in there only the bolt ends leading me to believe the bolt is threaded on both sides and will back out.  I double nutted the top and tried to break it free to no avail. 

Anyone have insight on how to detach this block?

John Clark
SV Annie  SM37
Brunswick GA....till I get this fixed. 

 

Re: Reefing and sail-handling on conventionally rigged Maramu, versus electric furling?

David Wallace
 

Paul,

Our 1982 Maramu did not have a reefing line or the halyard led to the cockpit. There were winches on the main mast for the halyard and for the reefing lines.

We also wanted the safety of managing all the sails from the cockpit so installed a Profurl furling boom and led the two lines to an electric winch mounted in the cockpit just to stbd of the companionway. The furling boom also gives you the added advantage of being to furl the main up to about 45 degrees off the wind since the sail goes up in a foil offset from the main: the foil is mounted on pins that are secured in the original mast sail track, and they are free to rotate. We had to drill holes through the cockpit base for the hard dodger to lead the lines through. Do that carefully, there’s a cable way full of wires in there!

Good luck in your search,

Dave Wallace
sv Air Ops 
Maramu #104

On Feb 3, 2020, at 10:48 AM, Paul Villinski <paul@...> wrote:

Hello Brain Trust,

We are in the market for a Maramu or Santorin within striking distance of the US East Coast. I have been focused on 1985 or later vessels with electric furling main and genoa, as ease of reefing and sail-handling from the cockpit is very important to us. However, there are currently no boats with electric furling for sale near the East Coast, and I am now wondering about looking at earlier, conventionally rigged boats. My question for pre-1985 Maramu owners is: are the main halyard and reefing lines normally led back to the cockpit -- was the boat set up this way by the factory? Is it possible to hoist and reef the main and mizzen without leaving the cockpit? If this was not the original set-up, have owners modified their running rigging to make this possible? Finally, how do owners think about the value of electric furling on a Maramu versus conventional set-up? My inclination is to wait for a later boat with electric furling to come on the market, but I may be prioritizing this too much. I will appreciate you input and experience!

Many thanks,
Paul Villinski
NYC
currently sailing a 1986 Sabre 32

Re: Insurance in Europe

Matt Salatino
 

Thanks for that input!
We will certainly shop your recommendations for next year, when our insurance expires in October. We are insured now with Pantaenius USA and would certainly entertain better pricing for similar coverage.....
Thanks again!

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Feb 3, 2020, at 2:29 PM, Ralf Schroeder <ralf.schroeder@...> wrote:

Hi Cindy and Matt,

in German are second alternativ insurance or broker.
First, there is firmenich-yacht.de and the other is yachtpool.

Yachtpool is since many years my broker and I'm very happy with them.
firmenich is for me new. But a friend from me was changed from Pantaenius to firmenich, because the cost are very smaller now.  

Best
Ralf
Sharki Baghira
 

Re: Insurance in Europe

Ralf Schroeder
 

Hi Cindy and Matt,

in German are second alternativ insurance or broker.
First, there is firmenich-yacht.de and the other is yachtpool.

Yachtpool is since many years my broker and I'm very happy with them.
firmenich is for me new. But a friend from me was changed from Pantaenius to firmenich, because the cost are very smaller now.  

Best
Ralf
Sharki Baghira
 

Re: Reefing and sail-handling on conventionally rigged Maramu, versus electric furling?

Bill Fletcher
 

Hi Paul

I currently own a 1985 Maramu but the only rub it is currently in New Zealand. If you are interested contact me directly. 

Bill

On Mon, Feb 3, 2020 at 11:48 AM Paul Villinski <paul@...> wrote:
Hello Brain Trust,

We are in the market for a Maramu or Santorin within striking distance of the US East Coast. I have been focused on 1985 or later vessels with electric furling main and genoa, as ease of reefing and sail-handling from the cockpit is very important to us. However, there are currently no boats with electric furling for sale near the East Coast, and I am now wondering about looking at earlier, conventionally rigged boats. My question for pre-1985 Maramu owners is: are the main halyard and reefing lines normally led back to the cockpit -- was the boat set up this way by the factory? Is it possible to hoist and reef the main and mizzen without leaving the cockpit? If this was not the original set-up, have owners modified their running rigging to make this possible? Finally, how do owners think about the value of electric furling on a Maramu versus conventional set-up? My inclination is to wait for a later boat with electric furling to come on the market, but I may be prioritizing this too much. I will appreciate you input and experience!

Many thanks,
Paul Villinski
NYC
currently sailing a 1986 Sabre 32

Re: New Owners - 1996 SM #180

Miles
 

Hi Jer,

 

Have you considered going to Martinique for the upgrades?  It might be worth the time.  In Le Marin, the Amel people can fix anything quickly and well.  The refrigerator and related are all available and readily installed by someone who has done the same thing many times.

 

Whatever you do, enjoy your new boat.

 

Regards,

 

Miles, s/y Ladybug,  SM 216,  Le Marin, Martinique

Re: Insurance in Europe

Miles
 

Hello Mark,

 

Congratulations on your new boat.  If you are going to stay in Europe for a few years, I suggest that you look into Pantaenius in Europe.  They are an different company and will not insure an American boat in American waters.  I had them for 8 years and found them to be excellent.  They change less than any US company, have lower delectable, and more coverage.  One reason that they can have such inexpensive liability is the exclusion of US waters and US litigation. 

 

Regards,

 

Miles  s/y Ladybug, SM216  Le Marin,  Martinique

Reefing and sail-handling on conventionally rigged Maramu, versus electric furling?

Paul Villinski
 

Hello Brain Trust,

We are in the market for a Maramu or Santorin within striking distance of the US East Coast. I have been focused on 1985 or later vessels with electric furling main and genoa, as ease of reefing and sail-handling from the cockpit is very important to us. However, there are currently no boats with electric furling for sale near the East Coast, and I am now wondering about looking at earlier, conventionally rigged boats. My question for pre-1985 Maramu owners is: are the main halyard and reefing lines normally led back to the cockpit -- was the boat set up this way by the factory? Is it possible to hoist and reef the main and mizzen without leaving the cockpit? If this was not the original set-up, have owners modified their running rigging to make this possible? Finally, how do owners think about the value of electric furling on a Maramu versus conventional set-up? My inclination is to wait for a later boat with electric furling to come on the market, but I may be prioritizing this too much. I will appreciate you input and experience!

Many thanks,
Paul Villinski
NYC
currently sailing a 1986 Sabre 32

Re: New Owners - 1996 SM #180

Germain Jean-Pierre
 

Hello Jeremy,

Eleuthera (SM 007) was probably at your starting point when we bought her...

Now also past new to use your words. 

For refrigerator replacement, we went with Frigoboat drawer replacements with a remote compressor. 


On 4/02/2020, at 1:17 AM, mr_hermanns <jeremy@...> wrote:



Hello fellow Amelians!

My Wife and I have purchased SM#180 (Anni Bea True).

She's a project boat for sure, and has almost all original systems except for an Yanmar engine upgrade (similar to the one on Cerulean my Maramu #105.).

Having been a Amel Maramu owner for the past 8+ years, I'm quickly learning the differences between 'Super' and 'OG' Maramu models. As well as the nuances of each boat for the first time - which is very exciting!!!

We've already had a heck of a time upgrading all the electronics with:
- B&G Zeus Chartplotters
- Dumping the old green CRT Furuno with a Halo Radar unit
- All new Tritons in cockpit
- Working depth transducer (went out every 10-15minutes intermittently)
- New Olympic 135 Compass
(yes, believe it or not she had a non functioning and zero oil Olympic 135)
- Replacing old sonic speed indicator
- Side Scan sonar install
- Replacing running rigging (90% chafed halyards, improperly rigged travelers and almost every other line you can think of was worn and showing signs of fatigue) we even blew out the old Bosuns chair safety line when putting new wind wand on mast!

There is much more to even mention, but will wait for later posts to address and mention.

Status: Been heading down east coast of US over past 2 weeks offshore (purchased in Annapolis and now in Ft Lauderdale) and planning to transit the canal in the next month on our way back to Marina Del Rey (our home) via MX.

Just wanted to reintroduce myself and looking forward to working through the many issues we encounter with you all and learn from the amazing collective wisdom of the group.

Things we can get advice on:
- Fridge and Freezer are on LAST legs, with the Galley fridge being a top priority with dead cold plates.
*Any recos on 24v suppliers or people to help while we are in FL!?
- Toilets are original 1996/1997 and looking to upgrade to self macerating prob.


Note: I’m sadly selling Cerulean Maramu #105 after almost a decade of upgrades and getting her to past new condition. Inquire if interested....literally no expense spared and BETTER than new.

Cheers,
Jer
--
Jeremy Hermanns - "Jer"
SVCerulean.com
Maramu #105
+
New: SM #180 Owner

Marina Del Rey, CA