Mark,
The thumbscrews are for the cover plate for the water pump.
They are a lot easier to hold and install.
Eric

On July 19, 2020 at 12:42 AM Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

Very cool! Thanks!

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: eric [mailto:kimberlite@...]
Sent: Saturday, July 18, 2020 6:20 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io; Mark Erdos
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] 110 HP Yanmar raw water pump access

 

Try using these using these thumb screws. They are so much easier then the ones supplied with the pump.
Fair Winds,
Eric
SM 376

https://www.mcmaster.com/screws/system-of-measurement~metric/thumb-screws/metric-stainless-steel-raised-knurled-head-thumb-screws/

On July 19, 2020 at 12:13 AM Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

Hi Kent,

 

I do mine by brail.

 

Are you using threaded impellers? These make a huge difference:

 

 

The above tool is used for installation and removal.

 

I have a little tool kit just for this job. It includes a nut-driver to remove the cover and a wrench for the impeller tool and the impeller tool.

 

Being left handed is an advantage.

 

When installing the impeller, use lots of dishwashing detergent to coat the blades. This lube allows it to go in smoothly. No need to worry about the orientation of the blades. It’ll correct itself on the first revolution. And, when you start the engine and see soapy water outside of the boat you know it is working.  

 

I leave a blue shop paper-towel under the raw water pump for the first few minutes the engine is running to check for any leaks.

 

Before I started using this tool I removed the components on that side of the engine. It is only few bolts and a couple of hoses. This made access to the pump very easy from the top. However, it made the job longer and cut into my beer time. Now I can change the impeller in about 15-20 minutes (if I don’t drop anything).

 

Hope this helps.

 

 

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of karkauai via groups.io
Sent: Saturday, July 18, 2020 2:58 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] 110 HP Yanmar raw water pump access

 

I know a few SMo have repowered with the Yanmar 4JH4HTE.  The raw water pump is on the aft/starboard side next to the fuel tank. It's almost impossible for me to change the impeller without removing hoses and alternator, and even then it's hours of struggling and cussing before it's done.
I'm writing to ask others if they are having the same problem, and how they deal with it.  I'm considering removing that impeller and putting in a remote raw water pump. Previously mechanics have discouraged me from doing that, but I'm at wits end.

Any advice, thoughts, etc are greatly appreciated.

Kent
SM243
Kristy

 

 

 

 

Can anyone tell me which  is the usual price for a SM ballooner?  (tri-radial cut and parallel cut)

Leo 
SM 69
Yin Yang in Fiji (I am in Austria)

I did not understand your original email.

Apparently, you have the original aluminum C-Drive. I have never seen one of these. Someone told me that Amel replaced these. I do not know if that replacement story is accurate or not.

I do not believe that I can help you.

Bill

	CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School +1 832-380-4970 | brouse@... Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550  Website: www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com

View My Training Calendar

On Fri, Jul 17, 2020 at 10:11 AM Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi <helenmi57@...> wrote:

I’m sending the plans Maud sent me. It’s not exactly like any of them.

We’ve measured the difference between the aluminum and the fibreglass and it’s 3mm, but again there is nothing to hold an O-ring in place.

Many thanks,

Helen and Kostas Meditation SM 29 in 1990

On 17 Jul 2020, at 6:04 PM, Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi via groups.io <helenmi57=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:

Hi Bill,

Thanks for the prompt reply!

Unfortunately ours is different and doesn’t have the O rings , or any likely place to put one. I’m sending you photos to see what ours is like. On looking at the plans Amel sent us our set up is not exactly those either. We have bolts to fix it in place which are inserted from under the fibreglass part, shown in one of the photos. 

It might be possible to put an O-Ring around the aluminum part which inserts slightly into the fibreglass, only there is nothing there to hold it in place, any ideas will be very much appreciated!!

Thanks again 

Helen and Kostas on Meditation SM 29 of 1990

<image0.jpeg>

<image1.jpeg>

On 17 Jul 2020, at 4:54 PM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:



The drawing shows 2 each "Joint Toriques" which is an O-Ring. Follow this link.

 C Drive Drawing_Page_1.jpg

	CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School +1 832-380-4970 | brouse@... Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550  Website: www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com

View My Training Calendar

On Fri, Jul 17, 2020 at 8:31 AM Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi <helenmi57@...> wrote:

We are having trouble with the seal between the transmission and the rest of the drive unit after having it serviced. The oil leaked out between the transmission box and the fibreglass part of the drive unit. The machine shop had used a paper gasket and some sort of red sealant. We are on anchor so are trying to do it ourselves.
We took it apart and resealed it , it leaked again after about 4 hrs motoring. We had used a high Temperature RTV gasket maker but no paper gasket because we thought that that was the way it was originally.
We have the plans from Amel, but it is not clear if there should be a paper gasket.
Should we try to find card to cut a gasket or try again with the RTV gasket maker? The fibreglass part is not in a very good condition.

Helen and Kostas on Meditation SM 29 of 1990

Hello Kent,

I followed Danny SIMMS suggestion; I rinse with loads of sweet water when able. 

This has been done automatically in NZ... so much so that a newspaper called the storm “the 500 year freak rain” 

We are dry; it’s N Amel 

Jean-Pierre Germain, Eleuthera, SM007

On 19/07/2020, at 5:16 AM, karkauai via groups.io <karkauai@...> wrote:

Well darn, sometimes I think my old "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" policy is best. My newly refurbished manual mainsail furler, which I filled with heavy gear oil, is leaking onto the cabin top.

I hate to take it off and redo what I just did with new seals, so I'm asking if anyone has ideas about what to do differently.

It's hard to pinpoint where the oil is leaking on the bottom side of the gearbox. I didn't use any sealant on the outside of the shaft seal, so that's one thing, I could use a speed sleeve on the shaft, but the shaft looked nice and smooth.

I could go with grease instead of oil, but that means more frequent maintenance. Has anyone put a zerk in this gearbox for periodic greasing?

Thanks for sharing your expertise and experience.
Kent
SM 243
Kristy

You might want to contact Ken from Aquarius who has three Youtube videos he made of how to rebuild the main sail manual furler.  He used grease instead of oil to lubricate after rebuild.  He also used the seal kit from Amel.  Here's the link:  youtube.com/watch?v=F0HIWBv1Pfc.

I'm no expert but it seems like installing a lube fitting should work.  Its apparently been done a lot on the gearbox for the electric furler.  

Regards

Bill Shaproski 

Pacific Cool

On Sat, Jul 18, 2020, 10:16 AM karkauai via groups.io <karkauai=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Well darn, sometimes I think my old "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" policy is best. My newly refurbished manual mainsail furler, which I filled with heavy gear oil, is leaking onto the cabin top.

I hate to take it off and redo what I just did with new seals, so I'm asking if anyone has ideas about what to do differently.

It's hard to pinpoint where the oil is leaking on the bottom side of the gearbox. I didn't use any sealant on the outside of the shaft seal, so that's one thing, I could use a speed sleeve on the shaft, but the shaft looked nice and smooth.

I could go with grease instead of oil, but that means more frequent maintenance. Has anyone put a zerk in this gearbox for periodic greasing?

Thanks for sharing your expertise and experience.
Kent
SM 243
Kristy

Well darn, sometimes I think my old "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" policy is best. My newly refurbished manual mainsail furler, which I filled with heavy gear oil, is leaking onto the cabin top.

I hate to take it off and redo what I just did with new seals, so I'm asking if anyone has ideas about what to do differently.

It's hard to pinpoint where the oil is leaking on the bottom side of the gearbox. I didn't use any sealant on the outside of the shaft seal, so that's one thing, I could use a speed sleeve on the shaft, but the shaft looked nice and smooth.

I could go with grease instead of oil, but that means more frequent maintenance. Has anyone put a zerk in this gearbox for periodic greasing?

Thanks for sharing your expertise and experience.
Kent
SM 243
Kristy