Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Battery replacment in the U.S.

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Alex,

I am 99% sure that your Amel 54 has a battery box with the same dimensions as a Super Maramu battery box. Your Amel came with what is referred to as GP31 or Group 31 batteries. There were most likely 1 starting battery and 12 house batteries. They were either lead acid sealed Freedom style batteries or calcium acid seal Freedom style batteries. They were either 105 or 110 amps each.

This will fit and are available in the US. Let me know if you would like a photo of the layout.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Dec 13, 2016 11:02 AM, "Alex Ramseyer alexramseyer@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

I’m trying to find a housing battery replacement for my existing Sonnenschein 6V 200AH, AGM’s
Their dimension is 24,5x,24,5X19cm (9,65x9,65x7,5 inches). Exide Technologies (Sonnenschein) don’t sell that model in the U.S., so I can’t replace 1:+1.
Talking to a local battery store here in Stuart, they said that all U.S. sold batteries have different dimensions. They suggest  to go for a model with slightly bigger dimensions, but unfortunately they are to big for my compartment and my current battery configuration. (4 blocks serial connection 4x6V = 24V, total of 16 batteries).
Can any of you confirm that it won't be possible to find a battery in the dimension I need in the U.S.? Appreciate any advice on how to deal with this situation.
Alex Ramseyer
AMEL54 no15, NO STRESS
currently Stuart, FLA


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water heater AMEL 54

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Thanks every one for the responses.

In order to avoid further water heater issues, i.e. heat exchanger, water tank leaks etc., My plan is to change out the water heater completely.  Does any one see any downsides to the replacement other than cost?

Barry, I would appreciate any photos you may have. Where are your auto pilot pumps and oil reservoirs mounted?

Mohammad and Aty
AMEL 54 #099
B&B Kokomo


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water heater AMEL 54

Tony Robinson <tonywrobinson51@...>
 

I agree - it is an easy DIY job. I replaced mine in 2013 and the boat was first launched in 2008. Oddly, the old element worked fine with the generator, but popped the 230V breaker when connected to shore power. I was told this was because it was on earthed then. Whatever, I too now carry a spare......

Regards,  Tony Robinson (Catriona R - Amel 54 #102).



From: "Barry Connor connor_barry@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2016 2:39 PM
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water heater AMEL 54

 
Hi Mohammad and Aty,

We replaced our heating element after we purchased in May 2015.
The element had blown some time before we bought, this was not picked up on the survey. A mess inside but easy to clean out.
It was easy to replace having been invoked with water heated stainless steel tanks in previous business.
Got 2 stainless steel heating elements from a marine chandlers, about $40 each I carry a spare now. Did not have to remove the complete water heater unit to replace the element. Took my time but still done in less than one hour. I don't have any hydraulic pumps on top of the water heater.
Do you need a photo? It is an easy DIY job.
Best Regards

Barry & Penelope
AMEL 54. #17
'Lady Penelope II'
Marina di Ragusa
Sicily


On Dec 13, 2016, at 3:12 PM, mshirloo@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 
Hi everyone;

I had been following all the interesting conversations about the water heater longevity, failures and subsequent issues caused by the failures. SInce ours has just hit the 8 year timeline, I had decided to replace ours at the next haul out date this year, prior to any failures which is in line with our philosophy about all of maintenance issues..

A couple of nights ago while plugged into shore power, I noticed that the power was out. The main breaker at the shore power pedestal at the harbor had popped. After resetting everything seemed to work OK. We only turn on the water heater breaker about once a day or when we notice water temperature in the faucet getting low. The next time I tried turning on the water heater, It popped the breaker again. For now it seems intermittent.

My questions are:

1. It would appear that we may have the pin hole in the heating element that every one has been experiencing. Is this the most likely cause or could something else also cause this event?

2. We have ordered a new water heater which is the standard 40 liter 750W Isotemp with exact same part number. Has any one replaced theirs and can indicate any particular issues with the replacement. It appears fairly straight forward but sometimes things appear simpler before you dive in. The hydraulic reservoirs and pumps for the auto pilots are mounted on the water heater. Can these simply be supported by some other means while the water heater is removed and replaced or do the hydraulic lines need to be disconnected to physically move the water heater out?

Any other thoughts and input would be welcome.

Mohammad and Aty
Amel 54 #098
B&B Kokomo



Battery replacment in the U.S.

Alex Ramseyer <alexramseyer@...>
 

I’m trying to find a housing battery replacement for my existing Sonnenschein 6V 200AH, AGM’s
Their dimension is 24,5x,24,5X19cm (9,65x9,65x7,5 inches). Exide Technologies (Sonnenschein) don’t sell that model in the U.S., so I can’t replace 1:+1.
Talking to a local battery store here in Stuart, they said that all U.S. sold batteries have different dimensions. They suggest  to go for a model with slightly bigger dimensions, but unfortunately they are to big for my compartment and my current battery configuration. (4 blocks serial connection 4x6V = 24V, total of 16 batteries).
Can any of you confirm that it won't be possible to find a battery in the dimension I need in the U.S.? Appreciate any advice on how to deal with this situation.
Alex Ramseyer
AMEL54 no15, NO STRESS
currently Stuart, FLA


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water heater AMEL 54

Barry Connor
 

Hi Mohammad and Aty,

We replaced our heating element after we purchased in May 2015.
The element had blown some time before we bought, this was not picked up on the survey. A mess inside but easy to clean out.
It was easy to replace having been invoked with water heated stainless steel tanks in previous business.
Got 2 stainless steel heating elements from a marine chandlers, about $40 each I carry a spare now. Did not have to remove the complete water heater unit to replace the element. Took my time but still done in less than one hour. I don't have any hydraulic pumps on top of the water heater.
Do you need a photo? It is an easy DIY job.
Best Regards

Barry & Penelope
AMEL 54. #17
'Lady Penelope II'
Marina di Ragusa
Sicily


On Dec 13, 2016, at 3:12 PM, mshirloo@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi everyone;


I had been following all the interesting conversations about the water heater longevity, failures and subsequent issues caused by the failures. SInce ours has just hit the 8 year timeline, I had decided to replace ours at the next haul out date this year, prior to any failures which is in line with our philosophy about all of maintenance issues..


A couple of nights ago while plugged into shore power, I noticed that the power was out. The main breaker at the shore power pedestal at the harbor had popped. After resetting everything seemed to work OK. We only turn on the water heater breaker about once a day or when we notice water temperature in the faucet getting low. The next time I tried turning on the water heater, It popped the breaker again. For now it seems intermittent.


My questions are:


1. It would appear that we may have the pin hole in the heating element that every one has been experiencing. Is this the most likely cause or could something else also cause this event?


2. We have ordered a new water heater which is the standard 40 liter 750W Isotemp with exact same part number. Has any one replaced theirs and can indicate any particular issues with the replacement. It appears fairly straight forward but sometimes things appear simpler before you dive in. The hydraulic reservoirs and pumps for the auto pilots are mounted on the water heater. Can these simply be supported by some other means while the water heater is removed and replaced or do the hydraulic lines need to be disconnected to physically move the water heater out?


Any other thoughts and input would be welcome.


Mohammad and Aty

Amel 54 #098

B&B Kokomo


Water heater AMEL 54

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Hi everyone;


I had been following all the interesting conversations about the water heater longevity, failures and subsequent issues caused by the failures. SInce ours has just hit the 8 year timeline, I had decided to replace ours at the next haul out date this year, prior to any failures which is in line with our philosophy about all of maintenance issues..


A couple of nights ago while plugged into shore power, I noticed that the power was out. The main breaker at the shore power pedestal at the harbor had popped. After resetting everything seemed to work OK. We only turn on the water heater breaker about once a day or when we notice water temperature in the faucet getting low. The next time I tried turning on the water heater, It popped the breaker again. For now it seems intermittent.


My questions are:


1. It would appear that we may have the pin hole in the heating element that every one has been experiencing. Is this the most likely cause or could something else also cause this event?


2. We have ordered a new water heater which is the standard 40 liter 750W Isotemp with exact same part number. Has any one replaced theirs and can indicate any particular issues with the replacement. It appears fairly straight forward but sometimes things appear simpler before you dive in. The hydraulic reservoirs and pumps for the auto pilots are mounted on the water heater. Can these simply be supported by some other means while the water heater is removed and replaced or do the hydraulic lines need to be disconnected to physically move the water heater out?


Any other thoughts and input would be welcome.


Mohammad and Aty

Amel 54 #098

B&B Kokomo


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Climma Heater

karkauai
 

I've not had to work on my Climma heater, but with other heating elements you can check resistance (Ohms) through the element.  If out of spec that would indicate you have a bad element.  You may be able to do this without removing it from the unit.  I would follow BeBe Bill's advice first.
Kent
SM243
Kristy

Kent Robertson
Kristy
SM243


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Climma Heater

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Gerhard,

Those old capacitors were out of tolerance enough to slow the fan down. I am surprised that this did not solve your problem.

There is an exposed micro-switch on the metal frame of the  heating element. The switch is normally closed, but when the heating element is TURNED ON, a spring on this switch gets hot, expands and forces the switch OPEN and OFF. This switch turns OFF one of the relays in the control box. This frame-mounted switch will OPEN and OFF when the fan is running too slow. The switch is for safety so that the heating element does not get too hot.

It is possible that there are 1 of 3 issues:
1.) The frame mounted switch may be full of dust and lint and is not mechanically CLOSING and turning ON.

2.) The switch is working but the relay is not. If you replace the relay from Climma, please photo which relay it is.

3.) The heating element is bad (I do not think it is this).

So, if I were you, I would remove the toilet. Be sure to use a lot of penetrating oil on the 3 bolts. The bolt on the front of mine was very difficult. I finally got it to move a few degrees and with some back and forth turning and a lot of penetrating oil got it out. Other owners have broken this bolt, had to drill it out and re-tap the threads.

Once the toilet is out of the way, you can begin. Be very careful of the condensation drain pipe and the plastic drain pan that is under the evaporator. This plastic pan is easily cracked or broken. Climma has no more and if you break yours, you will be forced to fabricate one. So when removing the drain hose do not pull hard and break the pan!

Remove the drain hose, the large air duct hose, the filter, and cut the plastic ties holding the temperature probe in front of the evaporator. Next remove the 4 stainless steel clamps and screws that hold the unit down on the piece of plywood. One of them will be in the back and hard to get to. When reassembling, locate it elsewhere. Remove the control box using the Amel thumb nut which is on the topside of the shelf that the control box is under. You may have to cut the plastic tie holding together the wires.

At this point you should be able to slide the entire unit out and far enough to remove the blower and get to the heating element. If not, you will have to disconnect each of the wires going to the control box, and the two water hoses (you will need 2 plugs and do not turn on air conditioning with these disconnected and plugged).

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Climma Heater

pepinoamel <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Bill,


I'm afraid you might lose that bottle of wine.  I've changed the capacitors, they were out of tolerance and the 2 mf's were reading 1.6 and the 3.15 mf was reading 2.5.  So I changed them with new ones, checked them, they have the correct reading but unfortunately I'm still only getting cold air.  Any idea what else I can check?  I will try to take the heater unit out without removing the toilet and leaving the unit in its place.  Do you think that will work?


Many thanks.


Gerhard Hoffmann

SY Pepino 381

Evia, Greece


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Hot Water Heater Failure

Colin - ex SV Island Pearl
 

FYI we fitted a new Quick 40L hot water system this past week. These have a temp setting as mentioned here and in addition, the ones approved for supply in Australia, had to be adapted with a mixing bypass pipe and valve system added on as well just as Bill describes.

Colin & Lauren Streeter
Island Pearl II, Amel53 #332
Brisbane


KInd regards

Colin Streeter
0411 016 445

On 13 Dec 2016, at 7:33 AM, Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

I assume (but do not know) that the standard Amel heavy rubber hoses are good for at least 80C.  They specified extra good stuff everywhere.  That assumes no other type of hose has been added, or changed out on your boat in its lifetime.  The standard polyester fiber reinforced clear PVC hose that most boasts are built with has a max rating of 150F (65C).


The real problem in my mind is that 80C water can come out of a faucet. That would worry me. If that doesn’t concern you, then set it for what ever temperature makes you happy!

Just for reference, the standard setting for domestic hot water in the USA is about 125F (52C). 

Bill Kinney
SM #160, Harmonie
Fort Lauderdale, FL
“Ships and men rot in port."






On Dec 12, 2016, at 16:14, svperegrinus@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Bill & Bill,


OK... so if 80 °C is too much for the hoses, what is the recommended temp setting?  On Quick water heaters, the thermostat allows a range which I believe starts at 40°.  I have ours set at 80°.

Cheerio,

Peregrinus
SM2K #350
Venice



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Climma Heater

Thomas Peacock
 

We just had problems with our Climma,  but on the AC side, not the heating. 

I agree that the capacitors may be to blame, but I would also check the relays. I believe one of the three relays controls the heating unit. You can hot-wire bypass it for testing purposes.

Tom Peacock
SM #240 Aletes
Saint Augustine, Florida


On Dec 12, 2016, at 1:36 PM, pepinoamel <no_reply@...> wrote:


Hi all,


I have encountered a problem with my Climma heater in the rear cabin.  The fan is running on all 3 stages, the air conditioner is working but the heater unit doesn't heat.  After talking to the Climma dealer in Athens, I suspect I need to replace the heating unit.  I believe it can be taken out by undoing the 4 screws that hold down the top steel plate.  Has anybody had this problem and has experience in replacing it?  I hope it can be done by leaving the unit in situ.  Any advice would be appreciated.


Many thanks.


Gerhard Hoffmann

SY Pepino 381

Evia, Greece




Re: Fresh water accumulator

ya_fohi
 

Thanks you all for providing lots of information. I will try these and get back with the results.
Cheers,
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Hot Water Heater Failure

Bill Kinney <greatketch@...>
 

I assume (but do not know) that the standard Amel heavy rubber hoses are good for at least 80C.  They specified extra good stuff everywhere.  That assumes no other type of hose has been added, or changed out on your boat in its lifetime.  The standard polyester fiber reinforced clear PVC hose that most boasts are built with has a max rating of 150F (65C).

The real problem in my mind is that 80C water can come out of a faucet. That would worry me. If that doesn’t concern you, then set it for what ever temperature makes you happy!

Just for reference, the standard setting for domestic hot water in the USA is about 125F (52C). 

Bill Kinney
SM #160, Harmonie
Fort Lauderdale, FL
“Ships and men rot in port."






On Dec 12, 2016, at 16:14, svperegrinus@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Bill & Bill,


OK... so if 80 °C is too much for the hoses, what is the recommended temp setting?  On Quick water heaters, the thermostat allows a range which I believe starts at 40°.  I have ours set at 80°.

Cheerio,

Peregrinus
SM2K #350
Venice



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Hot Water Heater Failure

svperegrinus@yahoo.com
 

Bill & Bill,

OK... so if 80 °C is too much for the hoses, what is the recommended temp setting?  On Quick water heaters, the thermostat allows a range which I believe starts at 40°.  I have ours set at 80°.

Cheerio,

Peregrinus
SM2K #350
Venice


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Hot Water Heater Failure

James Wendell <ms42phantom54@...>
 

Bill, good point. The excessive heat is likely the reason the primary gasket carbonized when my water heater dumped.
Jamie Wendell
 
s/v Phantom Amel 54 #044


On Monday, December 12, 2016 5:08 PM, "Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:


 
My suggestion (and it is worth exactly what you paid for it) is no matter if it came with a tempering valve from the factory or not, it should have one. 80C water is not good for most flexible hoses and NEVER for possible contact with people. 

Tempering valves are an easy addition and are used on many household hot water systems. They are readily available from plumbing supply houses and are easy to plumb into an older tank. 

The "basic" model of the Isotherm is still available with out the tempering valve. The standard Isotherm thermostat is not adjustable, it is set at 75C (167F).  That's REALLY hot coming out of the tap. 

Bill Kinney

On Dec 12, 2016, at 15:11, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 
Duane,
The other Bill is correct, however the valve he speaks of did not start showing up in Isotemp production inventory until about 2006-2007.
Your Isotemp water heater probably does not have the mixing valve that mixes cold water with the hot water at the Isotemp water heater, thus adjusting the temperature of the engine heated or electric heated water.
Your shower taps have a temperature adjustment for a normal range. If you press the button you will find that you can adjust colder or hotter. I think this will help you.
Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On Dec 12, 2016 3:55 PM, "Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
There is supposed to be a bypass valve on the outlet of the ISO temp heater. It mixes cold water in to temper the very hot water in the tank. It is an important safety device. When heated with engine water the tank can get up to 180F (82C) that's way too hot for domestic water!

Bill


On Dec 12, 2016, at 14:42, sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups. com> wrote:

 
Our Isotemp water heater provides extremely hot water, to the point it could burn you.  I have looked and don't see anywhere the temperature can be set (like a residential water heater).  Is that high temp normal or does it indicate the thermostat has failed?  It's been like that since we bought the boat.

Duane
Wanderer, SM#477



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Hot Water Heater Failure

Bill Kinney <greatketch@...>
 

My suggestion (and it is worth exactly what you paid for it) is no matter if it came with a tempering valve from the factory or not, it should have one. 80C water is not good for most flexible hoses and NEVER for possible contact with people. 

Tempering valves are an easy addition and are used on many household hot water systems. They are readily available from plumbing supply houses and are easy to plumb into an older tank. 

The "basic" model of the Isotherm is still available with out the tempering valve. The standard Isotherm thermostat is not adjustable, it is set at 75C (167F).  That's REALLY hot coming out of the tap. 

Bill Kinney

On Dec 12, 2016, at 15:11, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Duane,

The other Bill is correct, however the valve he speaks of did not start showing up in Isotemp production inventory until about 2006-2007.

Your Isotemp water heater probably does not have the mixing valve that mixes cold water with the hot water at the Isotemp water heater, thus adjusting the temperature of the engine heated or electric heated water.

Your shower taps have a temperature adjustment for a normal range. If you press the button you will find that you can adjust colder or hotter. I think this will help you.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Dec 12, 2016 3:55 PM, "Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

There is supposed to be a bypass valve on the outlet of the ISO temp heater. It mixes cold water in to temper the very hot water in the tank. It is an important safety device. When heated with engine water the tank can get up to 180F (82C) that's way too hot for domestic water!

Bill


On Dec 12, 2016, at 14:42, sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Our Isotemp water heater provides extremely hot water, to the point it could burn you.  I have looked and don't see anywhere the temperature can be set (like a residential water heater).  Is that high temp normal or does it indicate the thermostat has failed?  It's been like that since we bought the boat.


Duane
Wanderer, SM#477


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Climma Heater

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Oh, and if you have to remove and replace the heating unit, it is best to remove the toilet first. You will find the wiring and water hoses ling enough to move the Climma unit to where the toilet was and work on it there.

But, I will bet you a bottle of wine that the capacitors solve your problem.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Dec 12, 2016 2:36 PM, "pepinoamel" <no_reply@...> wrote:
 

Hi all,


I have encountered a problem with my Climma heater in the rear cabin.  The fan is running on all 3 stages, the air conditioner is working but the heater unit doesn't heat.  After talking to the Climma dealer in Athens, I suspect I need to replace the heating unit.  I believe it can be taken out by undoing the 4 screws that hold down the top steel plate.  Has anybody had this problem and has experience in replacing it?  I hope it can be done by leaving the unit in situ.  Any advice would be appreciated.


Many thanks.


Gerhard Hoffmann

SY Pepino 381

Evia, Greece


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Climma Heater

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Gerhard,

I strongly suggest something else!

That Climma unit has a fail-safe switch which will keep the heating unit from turning on if the fan speed is too low. In fact Climma states do not operate the heater on LOW fan speed.

I suggest that your fan speed has slowed because the 3 fan capacitors are out of tolerance. Tell Climma I told you this and order a set of capacitors from them. It will be less than 50 euro for all 3 or you might find a shop selling capacitors and can buy all 3 for less than 20 euro. Be sure to note that two of the three are identical but one is different.

I have suggested the exact thing to 5 Amel SM Owners. They all said that they had not noticed the slow-down of fan speed. The capacitors solved their problem.

You will save a lot of money if you try what I suggest first. And you will need those capacitors sooner than later if it is the heating unit.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Dec 12, 2016 2:36 PM, "pepinoamel" <no_reply@...> wrote:
 

Hi all,


I have encountered a problem with my Climma heater in the rear cabin.  The fan is running on all 3 stages, the air conditioner is working but the heater unit doesn't heat.  After talking to the Climma dealer in Athens, I suspect I need to replace the heating unit.  I believe it can be taken out by undoing the 4 screws that hold down the top steel plate.  Has anybody had this problem and has experience in replacing it?  I hope it can be done by leaving the unit in situ.  Any advice would be appreciated.


Many thanks.


Gerhard Hoffmann

SY Pepino 381

Evia, Greece


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Hot Water Heater Failure

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Duane,

The other Bill is correct, however the valve he speaks of did not start showing up in Isotemp production inventory until about 2006-2007.

Your Isotemp water heater probably does not have the mixing valve that mixes cold water with the hot water at the Isotemp water heater, thus adjusting the temperature of the engine heated or electric heated water.

Your shower taps have a temperature adjustment for a normal range. If you press the button you will find that you can adjust colder or hotter. I think this will help you.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Dec 12, 2016 3:55 PM, "Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

There is supposed to be a bypass valve on the outlet of the ISO temp heater. It mixes cold water in to temper the very hot water in the tank. It is an important safety device. When heated with engine water the tank can get up to 180F (82C) that's way too hot for domestic water!

Bill


On Dec 12, 2016, at 14:42, sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Our Isotemp water heater provides extremely hot water, to the point it could burn you.  I have looked and don't see anywhere the temperature can be set (like a residential water heater).  Is that high temp normal or does it indicate the thermostat has failed?  It's been like that since we bought the boat.


Duane
Wanderer, SM#477


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Hot Water Heater Failure

Bill Kinney <greatketch@...>
 

There is supposed to be a bypass valve on the outlet of the ISO temp heater. It mixes cold water in to temper the very hot water in the tank. It is an important safety device. When heated with engine water the tank can get up to 180F (82C) that's way too hot for domestic water!

Bill


On Dec 12, 2016, at 14:42, sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Our Isotemp water heater provides extremely hot water, to the point it could burn you.  I have looked and don't see anywhere the temperature can be set (like a residential water heater).  Is that high temp normal or does it indicate the thermostat has failed?  It's been like that since we bought the boat.


Duane
Wanderer, SM#477