Date   

Upcoming Event: ZOOM Meeting Marine Insurance presentation Questions & Answers - Sat, 06/06/2020 20:00-21:00, Please RSVP #cal-reminder

main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Calendar <main@...>
 

Reminder: ZOOM Meeting Marine Insurance presentation Questions & Answers

When: Saturday, 6 June 2020, 20:00 to 21:00, (GMT+00:00) UTC

An RSVP is requested. Click here to RSVP

Description: I asked Gary Golden, the number 1 person I respect in the insurance business to make a presentation on Marine Insurance. In 1987, Gary Golden co-founded International Marine Insurance Services (IMIS) and that marine insurance brokerage became so successful over the ensuing 29 years that his time was fully occupied with executive management of the agency. Gary recently turned the management of IMIS over to another firm and founded Manifest Marine. Gary works directly with clients, worldwide, to help them arrange the most suitable and affordable insurance for their boats and yachts. Gary's son Elliott Golden has joined him. Gary will speak of recent changes in the marine insurance business and how it impacts you. He will answer your questions.

Topic: Marine Insurance
Time: Jun 6, 2020 20:00 UTC
 
Join Zoom Meeting
 
Meeting ID: 928 0624 8211
 
YouTube Live stream: https://youtu.be/ufad3J8J-go
 


Re: Amel Euros 41 anyone?

Rachel & Andy <rachellouisesmith0971@...>
 

Hello Miles,

Thank you for your message. We are looking forward to chatting with other Euros owners.
We love our boat and would love to compare notes with others.
Where are you based?

Rachel and Andy


Re: Amel Euros 41 anyone?

smiles bernard
 

Hi there Rachel and Andy

I have a later Maramu but we had the pleasure of meeting a group on a euros 41 in Martenique 
It was hurricane damaged but being brought back to former glory. 
It’s the first time I’ve been up close to a Euros. Looked like a lovely safe sea boat with lots of the great Amel features that have seemed to pass through the line over the years. 

Best of luck with the hunt for more Euros owners 

Miles
Maramu 162



On 1 Jun 2020, at 18:45, Rachel & Andy Smith <rachellouisesmith0971@...> wrote:

We would love to connect with others that have the same boat as us. 


Re: Crack in the pole

VLADIMIR SONSEV
 

Just remove the ends,  get a new tube from McMaster - Carr, and reinstall the ends on a new tube. It is not that difficult. 
Or you can weld a sleeve on cracked tube.

Vladimir.
SM 345 "Life is Good"

On Thu, Jun 4, 2020, 1:20 PM Bernd Spanner <bernd.spanner@...> wrote:
Hello,
I realized that one of my poles has a crack of about 5 cm or 2 inches. Anyone here with knowledge of metallurgy regarding advise if and how to fix it or better get a new alloy tube? Not sure how old the cracks are. See pics.
--
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal


Re: Cleaning Water Heater

karkauai
 

Unfortunately, I can't claim that, Gerhard.  I replaced the whole element/thermostat/zinc assembly a few years ago. At that time it was about 3 years old, and the old zinc was about half gone.
Kent
SM 243
KRISTY


On Jun 4, 2020 9:26 AM, "Gerhard Mueller via groups.io" <carcode@...> wrote:
Kent

Once I had a short circuit in the water heater of my boiler. When taking out the heater element I saw there never has been any zinc element. The boiler was less than 2 years old. So I claimed the vendor and after some discussions the vendor delivered a new water heater with zinc element for free. Obviously it was a fault by the manufacturer to not have installed the zinc element.

--
Gerhard Mueller
Amel Sharki #60
Currently Kalamata, Greece


Re: Crack in the pole

 

Find a rigger near you. You need to replace the aluminum tube. All of the other pieces can be moved to the new tube and riveted in place. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse 
Amel Owners Yacht School
+1 832-380-4970 | brouse@...
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com 
Yacht School Calendar: www.preparetocastoff.blogspot.com/p/calendar.html


   

On Thu, Jun 4, 2020, 12:20 PM Bernd Spanner <bernd.spanner@...> wrote:
Hello,
I realized that one of my poles has a crack of about 5 cm or 2 inches. Anyone here with knowledge of metallurgy regarding advise if and how to fix it or better get a new alloy tube? Not sure how old the cracks are. See pics.
--
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal


Crack in the pole

Bernd Spanner
 

Hello,
I realized that one of my poles has a crack of about 5 cm or 2 inches. Anyone here with knowledge of metallurgy regarding advise if and how to fix it or better get a new alloy tube? Not sure how old the cracks are. See pics.
--
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal


Re: Keel rust and ballast straps on a Maramu

smiles bernard
 

Hi there 

I'll connect from the busbar to another common ground point which then connects back to the rudder shaft and hence anodes
I notice on our boat that there used to be a bonding strap onto the prop shaft seal housing 
The bonding copper mesh was attached by a jubilee clip so has broken off 
A previous owner has i think replaced the original shaft log with one of those dripless ones that you need to burp when you launch to get water in 
I suspect the original one was fed from a water T off the exhaust 
So i'm in two minds as to if i need to bond this in - but assume it wont do any harm if i do 

All the best
Miles



Re: Onan does not start

 

Paul, et al

Replacing the Negative Solenoid will sometimes only be a temporary fix. When the issue is either the actual wire from the Input Negative Post on the side of the Onan to the Negative Solenoid, of the connections of that wire, replacing the solenoid with a new one will temporarily solve the problem. But when the contact points in that solenoid become slightly used, the total resistance of the Negative circuit to the starter increases and you experience slow-starting or non-starting, again. It is time to permanently solve this issue.

I am convinced that the Onan internal wiring (Positive & Negative) from the Start Battery Input Connection Posts is insufficient and should be replaced with larger wire. See below and see attached pages from my Amel Book.

image.png
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Thu, Jun 4, 2020 at 8:48 AM Paul Osterberg <osterberg.paul.l@...> wrote:
Thank you all for your help 
It was the negative selenoid, now bypassed and the Onan is spinning again. Just need to find replacement and a spare to carry 
Paul on sykerpa SM 259


Re: alternator wiring question

smiles bernard
 

Thanks Gerhard
Yes i had found that same image but i'm still not too sure about the meaning 
stator taps?
I _think_ this is a point to which you can attach a tachometer and it gets an output current that is proportional to the induced current in the stator windings?
but my rev counter runs off the main engine alternator 
so i'm left wondering what else the white wire could be 

I guess my main concern is will i damage anything without it connected

My guess is no - i might just notice a light off somewhere??

perhaps i'll just need to try and see

thanks for your advice

All the best
Miles


Re: Onan does not start

Paul Osterberg
 

Thank you all for your help 
It was the negative selenoid, now bypassed and the Onan is spinning again. Just need to find replacement and a spare to carry 
Paul on sykerpa SM 259


Re: Cleaning Water Heater

Gerhard Mueller
 

Kent

Once I had a short circuit in the water heater of my boiler. When taking out the heater element I saw there never has been any zinc element. The boiler was less than 2 years old. So I claimed the vendor and after some discussions the vendor delivered a new water heater with zinc element for free. Obviously it was a fault by the manufacturer to not have installed the zinc element.

--
Gerhard Mueller
Amel Sharki #60
Currently Kalamata, Greece


Re: alternator wiring question

Gerhard Mueller
 

To get informations about a device use Google.

I see this when asking Google for your alternator connections.



--
Gerhard Mueller
Amel Sharki #60
Currently Kalamata, Greece


Re: Keel rust and ballast straps on a Maramu

Jacob Champness
 

Thanks Miles.  What else is connected to that busbar?


alternator wiring question

smiles bernard
 

Hello fello Amelians

I've been replacing the bilge bonding strap on our Maramu #162 
The job has offered a jolly time well spent sprawled across my engine. 
Whilst relaxing in this position i _think_ i have managed to knock a wire from the service bats alternator 

I'm not that familiar with alternator wiring and wondered if anyone might be able to guide me on where the now loose wire might go?

I attach a picture. The wire in question is the small central white wire with red crimp terminal 

I think it attaches back as per the picture but I dont know what the 3 terminals in the top of the alternator are for 

There is a chance that i did not knock the wire off and it was never attached - ie its some artefact of a previously replaced alternator 

Any advise would be very much appreciated 

Its a 8LHA2023VA motorola btw

All the best

Miles

Maramu #162




Re: Mango Headsail Question

smiles bernard
 

Hi there 

I had the same setup as described on a previous boat and I'm a big fan of it. 
Really good for down wind but also for a bullet proof , hank on, storm sail option. It also adds a backup  forestay of course.

We used rigging wire cut to a suitable length to allow it to be stowed at the mast base when not in use. We then had a strop to make up the remaining length that was attached to the deck fitting. 

We used a highfield lever for connecting / tensioning the strop and the main stay

This meant easy stowing of the stay and also meant we could hank on a bagged storm sail and sheets ready to go in the stowed mast base position

For downwind work we had a 85ish % hank on sail on the removable forestay. It stayed up all the time. 2 or 3 weeks i think on one crossing. Reefing for squalls was a breeze with the furler on the main big genoa

I will repeat if on our Maramu If we do more ocean hopping as i really missed it on our last trip. This time I’ll use dyneema but the same tensioner and setup i think

I’d also be really interested in any pictures of the deck fitting used on your mango and if/how that is tied into the hull.

Someone has done something similar on our Maramu in the past i think. 

There is a strong deck fitting tied into the hull that is just aft of the furler unit. Perhaps others also have this and its for something else I have not considered?

My original Amel installed furler was replaced with a modern electrical proful equivalent. The unit has been faultless but sadly it's motor position and dimensions mean it obstructs the line a second stay would take in the above plan. 

In time i'll turn the furler motor unit through 180 degrees to remove the obstruction
Or i'm thinking remove the electric furler and replace it with a  manual one with a smaller footprint. 


All the best very best 
Miles
Maramu 162


Re: Amel decal

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Arlo,
As noted in my earlier posts, please send me a private email to CraigBriggs001@.... Send your phone and address and what boat you have (SN, SM). 
Best regards,
Craig


Re: Onan does not start

 

Kent,

Correct,

Jumping or eliminating a faulty negative start solenoid on the Onan should be used only as a temporary repair or test. The solenoid should be replaced.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Wed, Jun 3, 2020 at 6:15 PM karkauai via groups.io <karkauai=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
If you are talking about the solenoid between battery negative and the Onan engine block, that is there to isolate the Onan from battery negative EXCEPT when glo-plugs, Start, and Stop solenoids are used. The rest of the time the solenoid is open and there is no connection to battery negative. Eliminating that solenoid defeats the floating ground bonding system in Amels and puts your under water metals at greater risk.  I strongly recommend against that. I had a prop shaft get destroyed by a faulty charger/inverter combined with a connection made by an ABYC electrician who didn't understand what Amel did. The CDrive had to be replaced to the tune of $30000US and loss of almost a year.

If you are talking about the start solenoid, I'm not sure how you would eliminate that and still have the starter function.

Bill, Olivier?????

Kent
SM 243
KRISTY
.

On Jun 3, 2020 1:27 PM, Teun BAAS <teun@...> wrote:

Paul,

 

We did not identify a knob or similar to press on the solenoid etc. etc. We just removed the negative solenoid.

 

If I understand Porter correctly he also is now sailing/using genset without a negative solenoid. I was going to have this looked at by a marine electrician in COOMERA but can I just omit that and continue without a negative solenoid?

 

Best Regards Teun

SV AMELIT  A54  #128

 

On the hard in COOMERA (near BRISBANE) QLD AUSTRALIA

June 3, 2020 10:27:01

 

USA cell: +1 832 477 8842

AUSTRALIA cell: +61 5951 8909

 

You can follow AMELIT via this link: https://forecast.predictwind.com/tracking/display/AMELIT

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Porter McRoberts via groups.io
Sent: Wednesday, June 3, 2020 10:10
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Onan does not start

 

Teun and Paul. 

Exact scenario. Same fix. Thanks BR. 

Porter A54-152. 

Excuse the errors.  

Sent from my IPhone 



On Jun 3, 2020, at 12:41 PM, Paul Osterberg <osterberg.paul.l@...> wrote:

Thank you all
Tomorrow I will go down to Kerpa and try to identify the negative selenoid, I had a negative selenoid on an VP on one of my previous boats that malfunction time to time, but it had a knob one could press in and force contact that way, Do not know if the Onan has that.
Paul
SY Kerpa SM#259



Re: Onan does not start

karkauai
 

If you are talking about the solenoid between battery negative and the Onan engine block, that is there to isolate the Onan from battery negative EXCEPT when glo-plugs, Start, and Stop solenoids are used. The rest of the time the solenoid is open and there is no connection to battery negative. Eliminating that solenoid defeats the floating ground bonding system in Amels and puts your under water metals at greater risk.  I strongly recommend against that. I had a prop shaft get destroyed by a faulty charger/inverter combined with a connection made by an ABYC electrician who didn't understand what Amel did. The CDrive had to be replaced to the tune of $30000US and loss of almost a year.

If you are talking about the start solenoid, I'm not sure how you would eliminate that and still have the starter function.

Bill, Olivier?????

Kent
SM 243
KRISTY
.

On Jun 3, 2020 1:27 PM, Teun BAAS <teun@...> wrote:

Paul,

 

We did not identify a knob or similar to press on the solenoid etc. etc. We just removed the negative solenoid.

 

If I understand Porter correctly he also is now sailing/using genset without a negative solenoid. I was going to have this looked at by a marine electrician in COOMERA but can I just omit that and continue without a negative solenoid?

 

Best Regards Teun

SV AMELIT  A54  #128

 

On the hard in COOMERA (near BRISBANE) QLD AUSTRALIA

June 3, 2020 10:27:01

 

USA cell: +1 832 477 8842

AUSTRALIA cell: +61 5951 8909

 

You can follow AMELIT via this link: https://forecast.predictwind.com/tracking/display/AMELIT

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Porter McRoberts via groups.io
Sent: Wednesday, June 3, 2020 10:10
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Onan does not start

 

Teun and Paul. 

Exact scenario. Same fix. Thanks BR. 

Porter A54-152. 

Excuse the errors.  

Sent from my IPhone 



On Jun 3, 2020, at 12:41 PM, Paul Osterberg <osterberg.paul.l@...> wrote:

Thank you all
Tomorrow I will go down to Kerpa and try to identify the negative selenoid, I had a negative selenoid on an VP on one of my previous boats that malfunction time to time, but it had a knob one could press in and force contact that way, Do not know if the Onan has that.
Paul
SY Kerpa SM#259



Re: Cleaning Water Heater

karkauai
 

Yes, Gerhard, I figured that out when I started cleaning it up. The base was also starting to disintegrate. l cleaned then descaled the tank with CLR, and inspected the tank and am putting it back in with a new element/thermostat, and zinc. I have two extra zincs and will check it every year from now on.

Anyone have any ideas how to check for an electrical leak that may be causing the zinc to disintegrate?  I think I changed the half-gone zinc 3 years ago when the old element developed a short.  This time all was working well and the element has appropriate resistance, so I don't think that is the problem. The tech at QUICKUSA said when the zincs go it's usually due to an electrical leak. It's a 220AC heating element, connected to sea water only by the heat exchanger tubing and coolant.  The 220 ground wire is connected to the boat's 220 ground.  I don't have it connected to the bonding system.  I have a galvanic isolator but rarely ever use shore power for brief periods. Because it's a magnesium anode, it would be used up before the boat's zincs...if indeed there is a connection somehow.

How to check for an electrical leak here???

Thanks,
Kent
KRISTY
SM 243


On Jun 2, 2020 8:06 AM, "Gerhard Mueller via groups.io" <carcode@...> wrote:
Kent

See the picture of a new heater for a Quick boiler.
There is an U-shaped pipe with the heater element, a straight pipe for the thermostat and the thicker item is the zinc element.



I do not see any zinc element at your picture. Probabely you will need a hew one.

--
Gerhard Mueller
Amel Sharki #60
Currently Kalamata, Greece