Date   

Re: Ankerwinde Amel euros

Aquarius 136
 

Lieber Elja,

Vielen Dank für Nachricht, das macht mich um einiges schlauer. Große Hilfe!

Ich habe noch eine andere Euros Ankerwinsch Konstruktion geschickt bekommen und bei denen fällt die Kette in das Vorschiff compartment was unter den 2 Kästen liegt. Dann kann u.U. natürlich Wasser an der Ankerkette entlang bis zur Bilge fließen.

Die Lösung wie Du sie beschreibst mit Ball im abgeschlossenen Ankerkasten hört sich für mich ein wenig sicherer an.

Wenn Du mir davon noch ein oder zwei Fotos schicken könntest, wenn auch immer möglich, wäre es toll.

Viele Gruesse
Valentin


Re: generator pcb board

 

Eric,

Great idea. I met a guy in Cartagena who did the same thing. 

Someone has got to have an old board that would send it to an address for you.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sat, Sep 26, 2020 at 6:52 PM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:
I have a friend in Bogota that repairs expensive circuit boards. Mostly for mining and the oil business.
I asked him how he gets the schematics. He replied with the cheap labor in Colombia ($1.00 an hour)
he just has his technicians test every component on the board.
I would love to send him a defective board and see what he can do with it.
Fair Winds,
Eric
SM 376

On September 26, 2020 at 7:31 PM rossirossix4 <rossidesigngroup@...> wrote:

Just a related comment...seems these boards fail alot....my MDKAV has this expensive board as well.  There has been at least one posting claiming that heat "melts" these boards.  When I run the generator and (almost always make water at the same time) I leave the engine room open (we are always at anchor or mooring ball so the noise to others is minimal).  That extractor fan is pretty feeble and I think the Dessalator motor likes to be cool as well.  Might make a difference.  My engine room has a 220V outlet mounted up high on the forward bulkhead and I have a 220 fan that is aimed at the Dessalator high pressure pump and in the general vacinity of the battery chargers.  Since this fan works anytime we are on shorepower or when the generator is producing 220 it might help.  Maybe I need to point another one at the generator control board area.  These portable plastic fans are cheap and also help when you are working in the engine room--can be run off the inverter or on shore power in those situations.

To ramble on a little more....a while back I wrote Fight Systems, Inc. that makes more reasonably priced replacement control boards for Onans and asked them if they could offer a board for MDKAVs and received the following reply"
Hi Bob, 

Thank you for reaching out to us. We consider many factors where looking at possible aftermarket replacement projects. The engineering process takes 6-8 months and costs well over $30,000, so we have to be sure a market exists that will allow for us to recover expenses in a reasonable amount of time. There are several drawbacks to designing a replacement for the 327-1533, the first is the customer case that the board rests in. That case will require an up front tooling cost of about $15,000 if we were to commission a plastic injection mold. That would be in addition to the $30,000 engineering investment. Unfortunately, at this time I am not confident we would be able to recoup our investment within a one year period based on the number of generators In the market that use this control. I wish it were as simple as snapping my fingers and having a replacement available. 

Regards,

Anthony Misiti
COO
Flight Systems
Maybe we could entice them with a pre purchase of a hundred or more.....seems like carrying a spare control board is a good idea.  Their boards run in the $250 to $300 range.

Bob and Suzanne Rossi, KAIMI SM 429

 


Re: How to prime fresh water on an Amel 55, anyone?

John Clanton
 

Billy,

 

On the output side of the pump (where the pipes come in and go out), there is a pressure switch which turns the pump on and off as the pressure dictates.  When the pressure goes down to zero, there is a safety function on the pressure switch which keeps it off.  I am not on the boat now and so cannot provide photos, but have experienced what you are talking about.

 

The pressure switch mechanism is a grey plastic box about 3” by 3” by 3”, and has the Square D (manufacturer) logo on the top.  On the right side, of the pressure switch mechanism, towards the base of it, is a small chrome/stainless steel round rod/lever that when pulled up, will manually start the pressure pump, and after a moment or two, it will maintain the pressure normally.

 

Specific instructions (from memory) are:

  • Be sure all the water taps are closed.
  • Turn the 24v water pump breaker on (you won’t see a light illuminated until the pump actually turns on).
  • Go down into the engine room and put your hand on the right side of the grey Square D pressure switch.  With a flashlight, you can probably look at the lower right side of the pressure switch and see the chrome lever.
  • Pull the lever up, it only needs to move a half inch or so, and the pump should engage.
  • On my boat, there is a pressure gauge on the top of the pump that shows the pressure in the freshwater circuit downstream of the pressure pump.
  • If you hold the lever up for 5 -10 seconds, the system should engage normally without you needing to keep holding the lever.

 

This is all that should be required to get the system back into “normal” mode.  Both the pump and the pressure switch are very reliable, and shouldn’t need to be adjusted or rebuilt for 10+ years.

 

That being said, anytime the system is drained/relieved of pressure, the manual lever will have to be engaged to get the pump re-engaged.

 

Best of luck.

 

 

John W. Clanton

S/V Devereux, A55, No. 65

Currently in Antibes, France

 

 



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Re: How to prime fresh water on an Amel 55, anyone?

Matt Salatino
 

If it’s anything like our 50, there is a lever on the pressure switch plumbed into the fresh water pump. Turn the breaker on, then lift the lever. The pump should start. This might or might not prime the system. If it does, fine. If not, put a hose from the dock into the hose outlet. We have one in the cockpit and by the bow locker for the anchor wash. This will pressurize the system. Then you’re back in business. As soon as the system is pressurized, remove the dock hose. Things should now work.
Don’t ask now I know this....:-)

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Sep 27, 2020, at 6:02 PM, Billy Newport <billy@...> wrote:

We turned off the fresh water pump from the DC panel and let a tap run which lowered the water pressure to 0 before doing some plumbing work today. I expected that when I turned back on the fresh water pump breaker, the pump would repressurize the circuit but turning on the breaker didn't do anything. The fresh water pump isn't starting.

How do I get the fresh water system going again? The Amel manual has very little if nothing about it or at least than I can find.

Any help apprec,
Billy

Amel 55#56


Re: Forward looking Sonar - Amel 54 - Furuno NavNet Plotter Network

Germain Jean-Pierre
 

Hello Stefan,

Just a note..

The Interphase sonar is stand alone and the screen is mounted on the cockpit side by the left arm of the helmsman.

I went to a different solution when I replaced the electronics on Eleuthera; I chose the Raymarine unit as it integrates totally with the rest of the system.  Our system works well but restricted to about 2.5 knots of speed.  The Interphase is also limited in speed but given that you only use the system in shallow or doubtful waters, most skippers will be going slowly anyway.

Good luck

Jean-Pierre Germain



On 28 Sep 2020, at 10:29, Stefan Schaufert <mail@...> wrote:

Dear Amelians,

 

thanks to Ken (SV Aquarius) and Oliver (SV Nautica) and others we know there are good (stand alone or B&G) solutions for a forward looking sonar.

 

But do you know a possibility/ device which is able to use the Furuno NavNet (Radar) Plotter (yes, it is old, but working reliable) for showing the „pictures“? 

 

Thanks for your hints.

 

Best regards

Stefan

A54 #119 Lady Charlyette, currently/ still in Aruba



How to prime fresh water on an Amel 55, anyone?

Billy Newport
 

We turned off the fresh water pump from the DC panel and let a tap run which lowered the water pressure to 0 before doing some plumbing work today. I expected that when I turned back on the fresh water pump breaker, the pump would repressurize the circuit but turning on the breaker didn't do anything. The fresh water pump isn't starting.

How do I get the fresh water system going again? The Amel manual has very little if nothing about it or at least than I can find.

Any help apprec,
Billy

Amel 55#56


Forward looking Sonar - Amel 54 - Furuno NavNet Plotter Network

Stefan Schaufert
 

Dear Amelians,

 

thanks to Ken (SV Aquarius) and Oliver (SV Nautica) and others we know there are good (stand alone or B&G) solutions for a forward looking sonar.

 

But do you know a possibility/ device which is able to use the Furuno NavNet (Radar) Plotter (yes, it is old, but working reliable) for showing the „pictures“? 

 

Thanks for your hints.

 

Best regards

Stefan

A54 #119 Lady Charlyette, currently/ still in Aruba


locked Re: Batteries starting to get weak - MMM - What to do -

Scott SV Tengah
 

Oliver, that has not been my experience. Perhaps Victron makes bad internal cell-cell connections but I surmise it might have to do with my keeping the Amel configuration of 12v batteries paired up in serial to create 24v and paralleled to create the total AH. This is useful in case your starter battery dies and you need to borrow a 12v battery to start engine/genset. I opted to retain that redundancy.

To my knowledge, BMS systems do not typically balance between serial pairs of batteries. As such, I've had a few cases of meaningful imbalance in the last 2 years of operation. By meaningful, I mean high enough to cause a cell to go over the cutoff threshold and cause the BMS to tell the chargers to stop charging.

Note that these voltage imbalances didn't show up unless I charge to 90% SOC or greater, because of the shape of the lithium voltage curve.

I agree that active balancing doesn't seem to provide any benefit and is of questionable utility.  

--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


repair of Onan circuit board

eric freedman
 

I spoke with my friend in Bogota and he would like to look at a defective board and give an estimate for its repair. Does anyone have a board that they would like me to send to him in Bogota for an estimate? Shipping to Colombia is expensive and many times FedEx and DHL packages are lost.  I ship to Colombia a few times a month by a much more secure method.

Fair Winds.
Eric

SM 376 Kimberlite


Re: New gearboxes - painted or bare alloy?

eric freedman
 

I forgot to mention that I used a Dremel tool with a cutting blade to remove a few thousands of an inch from the key that is on the shaft.
I removed metal from the sides and the top.
Eric

On September 26, 2020 at 8:10 PM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Try looking for a compound in a metal can called https://www.amazon.com/Never-Seez-NSBT-8-Regular-Anti-Seize-Compound/dp/B000KZCU26

I put it on the drive shaft of the outhaul twice a year. It takes 10 minutes. Just put a long grade 10 bolt in the bottom screw and tap it with a small sledge hammer. It comes out with 2 or 3 gentle taps.

Fair Winds,
Eric
SM 376 Kimberlite

On September 26, 2020 at 3:32 PM Ian Park <parkianj@...> wrote:

Well done Bill. Hadn’t thought of the real simple job of removing just the shaft. It’s on the schedule now. Thank you!

Feel a bit like Homer! Doooh!!

 

 

 


Re: New gearboxes - painted or bare alloy?

eric freedman
 

Try looking for a compound in a metal can called https://www.amazon.com/Never-Seez-NSBT-8-Regular-Anti-Seize-Compound/dp/B000KZCU26

I put it on the drive shaft of the outhaul twice a year. It takes 10 minutes. Just put a long grade 10 bolt in the bottom screw and tap it with a small sledge hammer. It comes out with 2 or 3 gentle taps.

Fair Winds,
Eric
SM 376 Kimberlite

On September 26, 2020 at 3:32 PM Ian Park <parkianj@...> wrote:

Well done Bill. Hadn’t thought of the real simple job of removing just the shaft. It’s on the schedule now. Thank you!

Feel a bit like Homer! Doooh!!

 


Re: generator pcb board

eric freedman
 

I have a friend in Bogota that repairs expensive circuit boards. Mostly for mining and the oil business.
I asked him how he gets the schematics. He replied with the cheap labor in Colombia ($1.00 an hour)
he just has his technicians test every component on the board.
I would love to send him a defective board and see what he can do with it.
Fair Winds,
Eric
SM 376

On September 26, 2020 at 7:31 PM rossirossix4 <rossidesigngroup@...> wrote:

Just a related comment...seems these boards fail alot....my MDKAV has this expensive board as well.  There has been at least one posting claiming that heat "melts" these boards.  When I run the generator and (almost always make water at the same time) I leave the engine room open (we are always at anchor or mooring ball so the noise to others is minimal).  That extractor fan is pretty feeble and I think the Dessalator motor likes to be cool as well.  Might make a difference.  My engine room has a 220V outlet mounted up high on the forward bulkhead and I have a 220 fan that is aimed at the Dessalator high pressure pump and in the general vacinity of the battery chargers.  Since this fan works anytime we are on shorepower or when the generator is producing 220 it might help.  Maybe I need to point another one at the generator control board area.  These portable plastic fans are cheap and also help when you are working in the engine room--can be run off the inverter or on shore power in those situations.

To ramble on a little more....a while back I wrote Fight Systems, Inc. that makes more reasonably priced replacement control boards for Onans and asked them if they could offer a board for MDKAVs and received the following reply"
Hi Bob, 

Thank you for reaching out to us. We consider many factors where looking at possible aftermarket replacement projects. The engineering process takes 6-8 months and costs well over $30,000, so we have to be sure a market exists that will allow for us to recover expenses in a reasonable amount of time. There are several drawbacks to designing a replacement for the 327-1533, the first is the customer case that the board rests in. That case will require an up front tooling cost of about $15,000 if we were to commission a plastic injection mold. That would be in addition to the $30,000 engineering investment. Unfortunately, at this time I am not confident we would be able to recoup our investment within a one year period based on the number of generators In the market that use this control. I wish it were as simple as snapping my fingers and having a replacement available. 

Regards,

Anthony Misiti
COO
Flight Systems
Maybe we could entice them with a pre purchase of a hundred or more.....seems like carrying a spare control board is a good idea.  Their boards run in the $250 to $300 range.

Bob and Suzanne Rossi, KAIMI SM 429

 


Re: generator pcb board

rossirossix4
 

Just a related comment...seems these boards fail alot....my MDKAV has this expensive board as well.  There has been at least one posting claiming that heat "melts" these boards.  When I run the generator and (almost always make water at the same time) I leave the engine room open (we are always at anchor or mooring ball so the noise to others is minimal).  That extractor fan is pretty feeble and I think the Dessalator motor likes to be cool as well.  Might make a difference.  My engine room has a 220V outlet mounted up high on the forward bulkhead and I have a 220 fan that is aimed at the Dessalator high pressure pump and in the general vacinity of the battery chargers.  Since this fan works anytime we are on shorepower or when the generator is producing 220 it might help.  Maybe I need to point another one at the generator control board area.  These portable plastic fans are cheap and also help when you are working in the engine room--can be run off the inverter or on shore power in those situations.

To ramble on a little more....a while back I wrote Fight Systems, Inc. that makes more reasonably priced replacement control boards for Onans and asked them if they could offer a board for MDKAVs and received the following reply"
Hi Bob, 

Thank you for reaching out to us. We consider many factors where looking at possible aftermarket replacement projects. The engineering process takes 6-8 months and costs well over $30,000, so we have to be sure a market exists that will allow for us to recover expenses in a reasonable amount of time. There are several drawbacks to designing a replacement for the 327-1533, the first is the customer case that the board rests in. That case will require an up front tooling cost of about $15,000 if we were to commission a plastic injection mold. That would be in addition to the $30,000 engineering investment. Unfortunately, at this time I am not confident we would be able to recoup our investment within a one year period based on the number of generators In the market that use this control. I wish it were as simple as snapping my fingers and having a replacement available. 

Regards,

Anthony Misiti
COO
Flight Systems
Maybe we could entice them with a pre purchase of a hundred or more.....seems like carrying a spare control board is a good idea.  Their boards run in the $250 to $300 range.

Bob and Suzanne Rossi, KAIMI SM 429


Re: New gearboxes - painted or bare alloy?

Ian Park
 

Well done Bill. Hadn’t thought of the real simple job of removing just the shaft. It’s on the schedule now. Thank you!

Feel a bit like Homer! Doooh!!


Re: New gearboxes - painted or bare alloy?

Bill Shaproski
 

I agree with Ian about removing the outhaul gearbox shaft regularly to keep it free.  However, I recommend once a year minimum.  I had to replace the outhaul gearbox after two years of ocean sailing and it was completely frozen.  I hired a local Amel specialist and it took us 6 hours to get it off.  We tried 3 different pullers and eventually had to use a grinder to cut the gearbox into small pieces.  Not a fun project.  I greased the shaft heavily.  There's no need to remove the gearbox completely, just remove the shaft which is held by a single nut and regrease it.  Should be 20 minute job.  
Regards,
Bill Shaproski
Former Amel Owner

On Sat, Sep 26, 2020 at 5:15 AM Ian Park <parkianj@...> wrote:
Mike,
You may have to grind the fins off the mainsail furling gearbox to fit in the mast profile. So you’d need to paint over anyway.
I changed mine three years ago. I painted with an aluminium primer and top coated with a one pot paint that matched the mast/boom.  It’s worked fine, and if it gets scruffy I can paint it again.
I would say that one of the gearboxes was filled with oil, the other with grease (there was a discussion on this) The oil dripped out (in small amounts) of the seal onto the deck,  so I refilled it with grease instead. Don’t know when you last removed the boom gearbox, but I take mine off every two years now to keep the outhaul shaft easy to free.

Ian

Ocean Hobo SN96
On passage to North Wales







--
Bill Shaproski
Cell:  +1-206-375-2787


Re: New gearboxes - painted or bare alloy?

Bill Shaproski
 

I've ordered several sets of these gearboxes from Bonfiglioli and they all were delivered with no finish.  I finished them the same or similar way I would have finished an aluminum part at Boeing.  That means a thorough cleaning to remove grease from surfaces, a coat of Alodine, two coats of zinc chromate primer, and two coats of enamel.  Having said that the first two units external surfaces showed heavy deterioration after two years of sailing around the world in the South Pacific and Indian Oceans meaning they saw a lot of salt water spray.  The other two units were just installed so have no sea time yet.  On these last two units I skipped the Alodine.  

If the supplier is willing to finish them for you, I would recommend that you accept that as they can probably do a better job.  I would also recommend that you install a cover over the units to protect them from salt water spray as suggested by another thread regarding these gearboxes.  Even wrapping them in a plastic bag or shrunk wrap would be preferable to no protection in my opinion.  But  I'm no expert so check with the other thread on this topic.  

Regards
Bill Shaproski
Former Amel Owner 

On Sat, Sep 26, 2020 at 1:10 AM Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy) <svtrilogy53@...> wrote:
Hello everyone,

I'm ordering new gearboxes for the main furler and main outhaul. The units can be shipped with a bare alloy finish or with a 2 pot epoxy paint. I'm curious if anyone has advice one way or the other. The paint will provide protection but will undoubtly fail at some point. The aluminum alloy should self-passivate and not continually corrode/oxidize.

Any advice from experience? Any issues in running with bare alloy, besides initial appearance? I suppose it will look better than flaking paint in the long run.

Cheers,
Mike Longcor
SV Trilogy SM23
Opua, NZ



--
Bill Shaproski
Cell:  +1-206-375-2787


Volvo 24v alternator exciter

Mike Ondra
 

24 V alternator recently requires higher RPM before producing voltage. Any suggestions about where to start troubleshooting? Exciter circuitry? Thanks!
Mike Ondra
Aletes SM240


Re: generator pcb board

 

Jeff,

Thanks for sharing. I checked and that PCB, part number 327-1533, is also used in MDKAV, MDKAW, & MDKAZ...maybe others.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sat, Sep 26, 2020 at 7:25 AM JEFFREY KRAUS <jmkraus@...> wrote:
Good Day Amelians
Recently, I was running system checks aboard s/v Spirit before a planned run from from Puerto Rico back up to Long Island NY.
My gen set shut down upon starting and indicated an error code of 3 flashes. That code asked for a second code, which when generated translated to requesting that a a certified onan technician be called.
My generator is an MDKAW circa 2005. 
When I ran it by my onan dealer back on LI, he indicated that it was the pcb board (the brain), or the whindings. Whindings checked out ok.
I contacted Onan, they had none in stock. They ran an engine down worldwide search, and still came up with none. Making matters worse, they said the company that makes the board for them is out of business (due to covid), and they don't expect to have a new supplier of this part in place for 6 to 9 months.
Fortunately, I found a parts supplier on ebay that has the part in stock. It's a few hundred dollars more then thru onan, but they have it, and it has been shipped.
The fellow I spoke to told me they had 12 in stock (it's now 11 lol). My board is a pcb board part # 327-1533
The company is Arkansas Valley Diesel Service. Phone # 719 9316003
If anyone else runs into this issue, I hope this will save them some aggravation.
Best Wishes to all Amelians.
Jeff Spirit Amel 54 #14 


Re: converting 24v alternator to ribbed micro v (serpentine)

ngtnewington Newington
 

Hi Oliver,

If you are talking about the small pulley on the alternator itself,  it is very tight, so you may have to take the alternator off to a garage that changes car tyres and ask them to use the compressed air socket set. However I did not need to do that. 

The problem is how to hold the shaft of the alternator whilst undoing the nut. If you use a screw driver in the fan blades then you will damage it. If you look closely at the end of the shaft where the pulley nut is threaded you will see a hexagonal hole that will accept an allan key. You still can not use a  normal socket as that would block the access to the hexagonal hole. You could use a socket with two flat sides to put a big wrench on, then undo the nut whilst holding the shaft with the allan key.

When the nut is removed you may need a puller as the pulley should be a snug fit on the shaft.

If you are talking about the big pulley bolted to the engine pulley. There are 4 bolts that can be removed quite easily. Then use a long bar to gently lever off the pulley.

I hope that helps a photo would make it easier to explain.

Nick

Amelia 
AML 54-019 Greece


On 26 Sep 2020, at 16:59, Oliver Henrichsen, SV Vela Nautica <oliver.henrichsen@...> wrote:

Hello Nick,

Can you describe the process to remouve the alternator pulley wheel a bit closer. Its hard to remouve... 

Oliver from Vela Nautica 
A54#39 
Martinique 

On Thu, Sep 24, 2020, 08:00 ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi fellow Amel owners.

 I have never been happy with the Leece-Neville 24v 175A alternator set up on Amelia presumably as supplied by Amel. 

Namely a double V belt pulley of 230mm diameter driving a 85mm diameter pulley on the alternator. These pulleys were supplied for B section belts, i.e. 17mm across the top. There was endless belt dust and short belt life. I checked the specs on B section belts and the minimum pulley diameter should be 112mm although it is possible to buy a cogged belt that can run on a minimum 91mm diameter pulley, however in general 112mm diameter is the smallest for B section belts. So this 85mm diameter pulley was wrong for such big belts.


I found on eBay Leece-Neville part number K176101466, priced $30. This is a K section 8 groove pulley with 63mm diameter.  The bore is 7/8 inch with keyway to fit the alternator. The pulley was new and unused.

Micro v belts can go round much smaller pulleys. I think for the K section it is a minimum of 45mm. So no problem going round a 63mm pulley.

I then took the original 230mm double groove pulley, that bolts to the Volvo crankshaft to my local machine shop in the UK who milled it down to match the Leece-Neville one I bought. He did a superb job for £60. 

Please see the photos of the big pulley that has been machined down from 230mm to 200mm.

So I calculate that I now have a pulley ratio of 3.14 whilst before it was 2.7. Thus at idle (725 rpm on the engine) the alternator now runs at 2300 rpm and will be charging nicely. Where as before in idle it was running at 1957 rpm. The alternator only kicks in at 2000 rpm. So in the boat manoeuvring situation we will now have proper charge, and we all know how much power the Bowthruster uses.

The alternator is rated for a maximum RPM of 8000. The Volvo D3 has maximum rpm of about 2700 so I calculate that the maximum engine rpm will have to be 2547.

Seeing as that is really thrashing the engine and I never run it it that level apart from the once a year blast out. I will put a small sticker at the helm saying Max RPM 2500.

Total cost in US$ including new Gates Fleetrunner belt about $125.

Obviously when I get back to the boat I will have to align the alternator, but note how now both pulley are exactly the same width. It will be much easier than before where one pulley was 47mm and the other 52mm. The machine shop supplied me with a few spacers, washers of different thickness, to help but I may well have to have a washer made  for the final alignment.

Nick (in the UK)

S/Y Amelia AML 54-019 in Leros Gr










<IMG_4059.jpeg><IMG_4061.jpeg><IMG_4060.jpeg><IMG_4059.jpeg><IMG_4059.jpeg><IMG_4059.jpeg>


Re: converting 24v alternator to ribbed micro v (serpentine)

Oliver Henrichsen, SV Vela Nautica
 

Hello Nick,

Can you describe the process to remouve the alternator pulley wheel a bit closer. Its hard to remouve... 

Oliver from Vela Nautica 
A54#39 
Martinique 

On Thu, Sep 24, 2020, 08:00 ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi fellow Amel owners.

 I have never been happy with the Leece-Neville 24v 175A alternator set up on Amelia presumably as supplied by Amel. 

Namely a double V belt pulley of 230mm diameter driving a 85mm diameter pulley on the alternator. These pulleys were supplied for B section belts, i.e. 17mm across the top. There was endless belt dust and short belt life. I checked the specs on B section belts and the minimum pulley diameter should be 112mm although it is possible to buy a cogged belt that can run on a minimum 91mm diameter pulley, however in general 112mm diameter is the smallest for B section belts. So this 85mm diameter pulley was wrong for such big belts.


I found on eBay Leece-Neville part number K176101466, priced $30. This is a K section 8 groove pulley with 63mm diameter.  The bore is 7/8 inch with keyway to fit the alternator. The pulley was new and unused.

Micro v belts can go round much smaller pulleys. I think for the K section it is a minimum of 45mm. So no problem going round a 63mm pulley.

I then took the original 230mm double groove pulley, that bolts to the Volvo crankshaft to my local machine shop in the UK who milled it down to match the Leece-Neville one I bought. He did a superb job for £60. 

Please see the photos of the big pulley that has been machined down from 230mm to 200mm.

So I calculate that I now have a pulley ratio of 3.14 whilst before it was 2.7. Thus at idle (725 rpm on the engine) the alternator now runs at 2300 rpm and will be charging nicely. Where as before in idle it was running at 1957 rpm. The alternator only kicks in at 2000 rpm. So in the boat manoeuvring situation we will now have proper charge, and we all know how much power the Bowthruster uses.

The alternator is rated for a maximum RPM of 8000. The Volvo D3 has maximum rpm of about 2700 so I calculate that the maximum engine rpm will have to be 2547.

Seeing as that is really thrashing the engine and I never run it it that level apart from the once a year blast out. I will put a small sticker at the helm saying Max RPM 2500.

Total cost in US$ including new Gates Fleetrunner belt about $125.

Obviously when I get back to the boat I will have to align the alternator, but note how now both pulley are exactly the same width. It will be much easier than before where one pulley was 47mm and the other 52mm. The machine shop supplied me with a few spacers, washers of different thickness, to help but I may well have to have a washer made  for the final alignment.

Nick (in the UK)

S/Y Amelia AML 54-019 in Leros Gr








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