Date   

Re: R: Re: R: Re: R: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: UPDATE_ replacing seal on the rudder

Mark Pitt
 

Hi Giovanni,

   Please describe "the fix special tool."  Who makes it and where can one buy it?

Thanks.

  Mark Pitt,  Sabbatical III, ASM #419


On 2/11/2017 10:46 AM, 'gtesta23@...' gtesta23@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:


Hi to all,

I did the job.

This the synthetic weights location :

bow: 2 anchors, 2 sails in right locker,  I added 4 jerrycans 20lt each

stern: no roll-bar, no solar pannels,no wind generator.

On the after deck : alluminium dinghy 2.90 mt +8 HP

Stern  locker: bicycle, 1 genoa, 1 gennaker, 1 folding  Zodiac 3.10 mt

Fuel tank : 580 lt. Water tank: 300 lt

External conditions : evident swell inside the harbour, so no flat water.  20 knt from stern so little choppimg against the stern.

In these conditions the water level was some mm under  the top seals . So no water when I removed the nut.

I decided not to replace the 5 months old seals. I removed the nut only to better check possible problems with the threads. It was all ok.

I followed Italian Amel dealer’s advice and  I added, over  the seals, a layer of blu grease (for HB) than I turned the nut 1/6 more than before. I didn't kill the nut, only to stay in right position with the safety little steel block. 
I used the Budget Marine adjustable wrench, it works properly only if all the connections and plate are removed. ASAP I ll buy the fix special tool.

Before, with the boat not sailing, I had very little leakage . Sailing, wind and swell, half glass h24-

We ll see on next passage to Mossel Bay _170 mg….crossing fingers.

Many tanks to all, to the next update.

Buon Vento

Giovanni

Sv EUTIKIA SM n 428

 

 

 



R: Re: R: Re: R: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: UPDATE_ replacing seal on the rudder

Giovanni TESTA
 



Hi to all,

I did the job.

This the synthetic weights location :

bow: 2 anchors, 2 sails in right locker,  I added 4 jerrycans 20lt each

stern: no roll-bar, no solar pannels,no wind generator.

On the after deck : alluminium dinghy 2.90 mt +8 HP

Stern  locker: bicycle, 1 genoa, 1 gennaker, 1 folding  Zodiac 3.10 mt

Fuel tank : 580 lt. Water tank: 300 lt

External conditions : evident swell inside the harbour, so no flat water.  20 knt from stern so little choppimg against the stern.

In these conditions the water level was some mm under  the top seals . So no water when I removed the nut.

I decided not to replace the 5 months old seals. I removed the nut only to better check possible problems with the threads. It was all ok.

I followed Italian Amel dealer’s advice and  I added, over  the seals, a layer of blu grease (for HB) than I turned the nut 1/6 more than before. I didn't kill the nut, only to stay in right position with the safety little steel block. 
I used the Budget Marine adjustable wrench, it works properly only if all the connections and plate are removed. ASAP I ll buy the fix special tool.

Before, with the boat not sailing, I had very little leakage . Sailing, wind and swell, half glass h24-

We ll see on next passage to Mossel Bay _170 mg….crossing fingers.

Many tanks to all, to the next update.

Buon Vento

Giovanni

Sv EUTIKIA SM n 428

 

 

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: replacement faucets

JEFFREY KRAUS
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: replacement faucets

Stephen Davis
 

Thanks for the update, as I need to tackle the same project soon, and your info will help. 

Steve and Liz
Aloha SM72
Guadeloupe 

On Feb 10, 2017, at 21:42, stephreg@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

This is an update on my previous post, that I have since deleted.


I have replaced the faucets on our SMM this past week. Here is what I've learned:
  1. Tools. The easiest way to remove the barrel nut holding the faucets in place (both galley and head) is with a deep socket, socket wrench and an extension. A 7/16 inch socket worked for me. Two open-end wrenches or adjustable wrenches will disconnect the supply lines. A 3/4 inch wrench worked for me. 
  2. Galley Faucet Replacement. The whole project is easier if you remove the locker doors, the face frame (two screws), the white shelf in the interior (two screws), and the plumbing for the waste. Even so, it is a bit awkward to position yourself so you can see what you are doing.
  3. Head Faucet Replacement.  Place a towel over the shower grate to discourage small parts from trying to get away from you. You know they want to. A cushion will make you much more comfortable.
  4. Faucet Selection. For a number of reasons, the project is easier if you use faucets identical to those already on the boat. However, if you chose not to, or can't find identical faucets, then you have some issues to deal with. The first is the rise of the faucet. In the galley of the SMM, there is about 10.75 inches (273 mm) clearance from the sink to the first shelf directly above the handle. When selecting a new galley faucet, it will have to be less than 10.75 inches WITH THE HANDLE IN BOTH THE ON AND OFF POSITIONS, at the centerline of the stem. The rise of the part where the water comes out is unlikely to be a problem. The bath faucets have nothing directly above them, so this is not an issue. 
  5. Faucet selection - supply lines.  If you are not buying identical faucets, then be aware that supply line fittings are changing, so if you want to avoid a second trip to the store, take the old ones with you; or take pictures; or both. What is more, the faucet you select may have shorter supply lines than the originals, and this will require that you buy something to bridge the gap. I used supply lines with one end matching the new faucet and the other matching the fitting on the boat. 
  6. Save the Off Parts. I found that the plastic one-inch, U-shaped, retaining piece that is part of the original faucets (both galley and head) worked better than the much smaller retaining piece supplied with the new faucet. 
Stephan
s/v Hanalei (SMM)


Re: replacement faucets

Stephan Regulinski
 

This is an update on my previous post, that I have since deleted.

I have replaced the faucets on our SMM this past week. Here is what I've learned:
  1. Tools. The easiest way to remove the barrel nut holding the faucets in place (both galley and head) is with a deep socket, socket wrench and an extension. A 7/16 inch socket worked for me. Two open-end wrenches or adjustable wrenches will disconnect the supply lines. A 3/4 inch wrench worked for me. 
  2. Galley Faucet Replacement. The whole project is easier if you remove the locker doors, the face frame (two screws), the white shelf in the interior (two screws), and the plumbing for the waste. Even so, it is a bit awkward to position yourself so you can see what you are doing.
  3. Head Faucet Replacement.  Place a towel over the shower grate to discourage small parts from trying to get away from you. You know they want to. A cushion will make you much more comfortable.
  4. Faucet Selection. For a number of reasons, the project is easier if you use faucets identical to those already on the boat. However, if you chose not to, or can't find identical faucets, then you have some issues to deal with. The first is the rise of the faucet. In the galley of the SMM, there is about 10.75 inches (273 mm) clearance from the sink to the first shelf directly above the handle. When selecting a new galley faucet, it will have to be less than 10.75 inches WITH THE HANDLE IN BOTH THE ON AND OFF POSITIONS, at the centerline of the stem. The rise of the part where the water comes out is unlikely to be a problem. The bath faucets have nothing directly above them, so this is not an issue. 
  5. Faucet selection - supply lines.  If you are not buying identical faucets, then be aware that supply line fittings are changing, so if you want to avoid a second trip to the store, take the old ones with you; or take pictures; or both. What is more, the faucet you select may have shorter supply lines than the originals, and this will require that you buy something to bridge the gap. I used supply lines with one end matching the new faucet and the other matching the fitting on the boat. 
  6. Save the Off Parts. I found that the plastic one-inch, U-shaped, retaining piece that is part of the original faucets (both galley and head) worked better than the much smaller retaining piece supplied with the new faucet. 
Stephan
s/v Hanalei (SMM)


Re: R: Re: R: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: replacing seal on the rudder

Alan Leslie
 

Good Luck Giovanni, Hope Jean Luc's tool works for you.
Please say "Bonjour / Hello" to Eva and Jean Luc on Reve de Lune IV from me
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Amel SM Sailing trim.

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Hello Bill,

3 years ago, I also wrote about Weather and Lee Helm which I learn in the ASA106.
When I purchased Nikimat, I completely empty the vessel, then weight everything I was loading, heaviest near the center of gravity and as low as possible.
I had a bit of Weather Helm, which I like, the boat was super responsive…
Then I had to service the bow thruster in the water (my first illustration)… and find the water level was dangerously closed to the top of the cavity where the bow thruster retract…
So unfortunately had to rebalanced… put the boat 3 times on a diet, rebalancing every time, I actually now heel 0.5 on Starboard…
At the last haul out, I place a white line on each side of the hull showing where the bow thruster hole is as I know I would be very loaded…
Since I already spent 8 months in the Bahamas and was going back for 7 followed by Turks & Caicos, I stock on everything (of course parts, 22 case of wine, 3 cases of champagne, etc.) so to be on the safe side, I only put 150 liter in the water tank…

Exactly a year ago, I was in Providenciales (Blue Haven Marina), I love the place so much I end up spending 2.5 months there!
Certainly one of my favorite island. Hope you enjoy it too!

Alexandre





--------------------------------------------

On Fri, 2/10/17, greatketch@yahoo.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Amel SM Sailing trim.
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, February 10, 2017, 1:13 PM


 









If your boat is down by the stern so far that the
top of the rudder shaft packing gland is below the static
water line, you are too deep in the water either overall, or
just down by the stern. Take a look at the drawings of the
boat made by Amel to see where the load waterline should be
(just above the aft-upper corner of the rudder).
Keeping a boat trimmed close to its
designed waterline level is really important for good
sailing performance and comfortable motion in the waves.  A
boat down by the bow will experience excess weather helm and
have trouble in a short chop.  A boat down by the stern
will show lee helm, and will not point as high as she
otherwise could.
It is
not easy to figure out exactly where the right waterline is.
The painted water line is a poor guide.  On my Amel the
painted waterline sweeps up several inches at the bow. That
looks good, but anyone who used it as a guide would be
trimmed WAY down by the bow.  Even if you have the boat
level, if weight is concentrated in the bow and stern the
boat can "hobbyhorse" in the waves quite badly.
Heavy stuff should always be toward the middle of the boat,
as much as is practical.
When we bought Harmonie
before we loaded her up with our "stuff" she
was as close to "light ship" trim as she is ever
again likely to be. I used the Amel drawings to scale a
measurement for the bow and the stern from the top of the
toerail to the water, and found them to match the design
drawings very closely at 64 inches and 53 1/8 inches.  As
we loaded the boat, I tried hard to keep the weight
distributed evenly so we went evenly down in the water.

This is always
a challenge with a cruising boat, accumulating
"stuff" is easy, getting rid of it is hard. It is
really easy to just throw stuff in that delightfully huge
stern locker, and end up way too heavy at the back of the
boat! We find this doubly hard, because Harmonie is
the only home we have right now. We are a bit heavier than
I'd like--but we are always working on it! I'd love
to loose 500 lbs or so!
Bill KinneySM#160
HarmonieProvidenciales, Turks and
Caicos Islands.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Diruptor problems.

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Hello Bill,

Then in your case, it seems it is time to replace all the Diruptors.

In my case, yes it tripped as supposed to, until the time it could not be switch on.

Alexandre



--------------------------------------------

On Fri, 2/10/17, greatketch@yahoo.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Diruptor problems.
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, February 10, 2017, 1:20 PM


 









The problems I had with the wash pump and autopilot
breakers were completely internal to the Diruptor.  They
did not "trip", they would not latch on even with
no load at all.  Replace the Diruptor, and--problem gone.
 Nothing wrong with autopilot or pump.
The issue you describe sounds like
it was not with the breaker, but with the AC unit itself
drawing too much power and the breaker tripping just as it
was designed to do.
Bill KinneySM#160
HarmonieProvidenciales, Turks and
Caicos Islands.









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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Diruptor problems.

greatketch@...
 

The problems I had with the wash pump and autopilot breakers were completely internal to the Diruptor.  They did not "trip", they would not latch on even with no load at all.  Replace the Diruptor, and--problem gone.  Nothing wrong with autopilot or pump.

The issue you describe sounds like it was not with the breaker, but with the AC unit itself drawing too much power and the breaker tripping just as it was designed to do.

Bill Kinney
SM#160 Harmonie
Providenciales, Turks and Caicos Islands.


Amel SM Sailing trim.

greatketch@...
 

If your boat is down by the stern so far that the top of the rudder shaft packing gland is below the static water line, you are too deep in the water either overall, or just down by the stern. Take a look at the drawings of the boat made by Amel to see where the load waterline should be (just above the aft-upper corner of the rudder).

Keeping a boat trimmed close to its designed waterline level is really important for good sailing performance and comfortable motion in the waves.  A boat down by the bow will experience excess weather helm and have trouble in a short chop.  A boat down by the stern will show lee helm, and will not point as high as she otherwise could.

It is not easy to figure out exactly where the right waterline is. The painted water line is a poor guide.  On my Amel the painted waterline sweeps up several inches at the bow. That looks good, but anyone who used it as a guide would be trimmed WAY down by the bow.  Even if you have the boat level, if weight is concentrated in the bow and stern the boat can "hobbyhorse" in the waves quite badly. Heavy stuff should always be toward the middle of the boat, as much as is practical.

When we bought Harmonie before we loaded her up with our "stuff" she was as close to "light ship" trim as she is ever again likely to be. I used the Amel drawings to scale a measurement for the bow and the stern from the top of the toerail to the water, and found them to match the design drawings very closely at 64 inches and 53 1/8 inches.  As we loaded the boat, I tried hard to keep the weight distributed evenly so we went evenly down in the water.

This is always a challenge with a cruising boat, accumulating "stuff" is easy, getting rid of it is hard. It is really easy to just throw stuff in that delightfully huge stern locker, and end up way too heavy at the back of the boat! We find this doubly hard, because Harmonie is the only home we have right now. We are a bit heavier than I'd like--but we are always working on it! I'd love to loose 500 lbs or so!

Bill Kinney
SM#160 Harmonie
Providenciales, Turks and Caicos Islands.
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Diruptor problems.

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Hello Bill,

Sorry to read about your Diruptor issue.

I have only had 1 Diruptor failure, it was 3 years ago, on the Salon Air conditioning.

The Diruptor keep popping, then would not stay on the On position.
After investigating, I find out the sea cock strainer was very dirty… which I think created additional load on the air conditioning.
I cleaned the strainer, changed the Diruptor (purchase spares from Amel for all of them) and never had the problem again.

Could something make the anchor wash pump need more electricity? May be a pinch or obstructed hose? Salt built up?
Regarding Auto pilot, could also something create more resistance on the wheels, making the auto pilot work more?

Keep us posted.

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Harbor View Marina, Tortola, BVI




--------------------------------------------

On Fri, 2/10/17, greatketch@yahoo.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Diruptor problems.
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, February 10, 2017, 11:51 AM


 









In the past year, I have had three
Diruptor brand circuit breakers fail on my
boat.The main 16 AMP
220 volt power feed began to trip at amperages WAY below its
rated trip point.  This was a nightmare to troubleshoot,
because I had to track down every other cause before I
believed that it was the breaker at fault.
The 10 amp breaker for the anchor wash
pump.  Would not latch in the "On" position.
The 10 amp breaker for one of my
autopilot computers would intermittently fail to latch in
the "On" position.
I find this both strange, and
disconcerting. Strange, because I can not remember
experiencing a marine, household or industrial breaker
failing without an obvious cause--ever.  Maybe I have had a
very long string of good luck interrupted by a year of very
bad luck, but I kind of doubt that. It is also possible, I
guess, that the electrical system on my boat experienced
some past trauma that damaged the breakers in some invisible
way, but I doubt that too, and can not imagine what that
might look like.

I find this disconcerting because
I am starting to wonder if some of the breakers on my boat
would fail to trip if they were actually called upon in a
emergency short-circuit.  This is an invisible failure mode
I would not find out about until my wiring melted. That
scares me.
After 21 years of
service, is it time to just replace all of them?  Has
anyone else had problems with this brand of breaker as they
age?
Bill KinneySM#160
HarmonieProvidenciales, Turks and Caicos
Islands











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Diruptor problems.

greatketch@...
 

In the past year, I have had three Diruptor brand circuit breakers fail on my boat.

  1. The main 16 AMP 220 volt power feed began to trip at amperages WAY below its rated trip point.  This was a nightmare to troubleshoot, because I had to track down every other cause before I believed that it was the breaker at fault.
  2. The 10 amp breaker for the anchor wash pump.  Would not latch in the "On" position.
  3. The 10 amp breaker for one of my autopilot computers would intermittently fail to latch in the "On" position.

I find this both strange, and disconcerting. Strange, because I can not remember experiencing a marine, household or industrial breaker failing without an obvious cause--ever.  Maybe I have had a very long string of good luck interrupted by a year of very bad luck, but I kind of doubt that. It is also possible, I guess, that the electrical system on my boat experienced some past trauma that damaged the breakers in some invisible way, but I doubt that too, and can not imagine what that might look like.


I find this disconcerting because I am starting to wonder if some of the breakers on my boat would fail to trip if they were actually called upon in a emergency short-circuit.  This is an invisible failure mode I would not find out about until my wiring melted. That scares me.


After 21 years of service, is it time to just replace all of them?  Has anyone else had problems with this brand of breaker as they age?


Bill Kinney

SM#160 Harmonie

Providenciales, Turks and Caicos Islands




Re: R: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: replacing seal on the rudder

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

A nice practical solution. Another is to put the dinghy on the deck at the end opposite to that you wish to raise and put buckets of water into it until the required movement is achieved.
Regards
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl



From: "rossidesigngroup@... [amelyachtowners]"
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Friday, 10 February 2017 9:50 PM
Subject: Re: R: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: replacing seal on the rudder

 
I don't think I've ever seen this posted, so I will.  It might be helpful to someone working on the rudder and may explain some things if you are working on the bow thruster.  If you are moored stern-to Med style you can move your stern lines from the stern chocks to the side cleats and tighten the laid bow lines or your anchor. This will tilt the stern up--a surprising amount!   Also, in some cases the stern lines go "up" to the dock--in this case just tighten your bow lines.  I first discovered this when changing the bow thruster while Med moored.  I could not understand why my bow was so low!  Tight bow lines can put an amazing amount of downward pull on your bow pulling it down and and the stern can rise. 
Bob, KAIMI SM 429



R: Re: R: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: replacing seal on the rudder

Giovanni TESTA
 

Many thanks to all for suggestions. I hope it may be enough to turn 1/6 more.
Here at Port Elisabet there is now an other Amel SM "Rev de lun" and Jan Luc, the French owner, has a new tool to better do the job.
I used the adjustable tool from Budget Marine, but it has a shape ( and screw) that cant allow me to use a proper power.
ASAP I update the situation.
Buon Vento
Giovanni
SV EUTIKIA n428

----Messaggio originale----
Da: amelyachtowners@...
Data: 10-feb-2017 9.50
A:
Ogg: Re: R: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: replacing seal on the rudder



----Messaggio originale----
Da: amelyachtowners@...
Data: 10-feb-2017 9.50
A:
Ogg: Re: R: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: replacing seal on the rudder

 

I don't think I've ever seen this posted, so I will.  It might be helpful to someone working on the rudder and may explain some things if you are working on the bow thruster.  If you are moored stern-to Med style you can move your stern lines from the stern chocks to the side cleats and tighten the laid bow lines or your anchor. This will tilt the stern up--a surprising amount!   Also, in some cases the stern lines go "up" to the dock--in this case just tighten your bow lines.  I first discovered this when changing the bow thruster while Med moored.  I could not understand why my bow was so low!  Tight bow lines can put an amazing amount of downward pull on your bow pulling it down and and the stern can rise. 

Bob, KAIMI SM 429




Re: R: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: replacing seal on the rudder

rossirossix4
 

I don't think I've ever seen this posted, so I will.  It might be helpful to someone working on the rudder and may explain some things if you are working on the bow thruster.  If you are moored stern-to Med style you can move your stern lines from the stern chocks to the side cleats and tighten the laid bow lines or your anchor. This will tilt the stern up--a surprising amount!   Also, in some cases the stern lines go "up" to the dock--in this case just tighten your bow lines.  I first discovered this when changing the bow thruster while Med moored.  I could not understand why my bow was so low!  Tight bow lines can put an amazing amount of downward pull on your bow pulling it down and and the stern can rise. 
Bob, KAIMI SM 429


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] 24 Volt cct breakers

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

On Thu, Feb 9, 2017 at 5:33 PM, divanz620@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi all,

Does anyone have a good source for the various 24 volt Diruptor circuit breakers on the 24V panel in a Super Maramu ?

I used to get them from TY boat in France, but they no longer respond.

Cheers

Alan

Elyse SM437




24 Volt cct breakers

Alan Leslie
 

Hi all,

Does anyone have a good source for the various 24 volt Diruptor circuit breakers on the 24V panel in a Super Maramu ?

I used to get them from TY boat in France, but they no longer respond.

Cheers

Alan

Elyse SM437



Re: Asking for Manuals in Spanish

Alan Leslie
 

Hola Rafael

I have it in English but it's 17MB and there are the appendices about 5MB each.
Do you have a drop box or some other cloud storage, where I can upload them ?
email me   s.v.elyse at hotmail dot com and I'll send them.

Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Engine Room Extractor Fan - Loose wire

Mark Erdos
 

Hi Bill,

 

I hope you are enjoying land life. Thank you for taking the time to write a response.

 

This gives me a good start point to get the meter out and figure this out. Thanks for the relay 101. This is really a weak point of mine. But, soon to get better.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currenlty cruising – Exuma Islands - Bahamas

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, February 9, 2017 8:21 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Engine Room Extractor Fan - Loose wire

 

 

Mark,

 

And, I will take a wild guess that the white wire is the activation ("excite") wire from the ignition. If it switches ON with the ignition switch, you found your problem...next, you need to find the activation ("excite") side of the rely and plug it in.

 

Bill

ex-BeBe

 

On Thu, Feb 9, 2017 at 7:18 AM, Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

Mark,

 

You need to start figuring it out because Amel did it differently when they built SMs with the Yanmar engine and nobody else is going to have the same. 

 

A relay is an electrical device, typically incorporating an electromagnet, that is activated (excited) by a current or signal in one circuit to open or close (ON/OFF) another circuit.

 

Those relays will have one side activated ("excited") by the 12VDC ignition circuit and the other side will be "switched" ON/OFF and could be either 24VDC or 12VDC. Since originally Amel had 2 breakers, I am guessing that he installed a relay for each breaker circuit.

 

I think that I would start by finding the wire from the ignition which I will call the "excite" wire. This will be 12VDC and will only be hot when the key is ON. I believe that the ignition activation ("excite") wire to one relay will probably be jumped from one relay to the other relay. This wire will cause the relay to "switch" the "switched" side of the relay to ON. This "switched" side will have current going IN to the relay to the relay and current going OUT when the relay is excited (switched ON).

 

Good Luck!

 

Bill

ex-BeBe

 

 

On Wed, Feb 8, 2017 at 6:00 PM, 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Joel,

 

No worries. If someone writes back and has a similar setup, great. If not, I’ve got time. I’ll eventually figure it out, I hope J

 

Really hoping someone can help.

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currenlty cruising - Exuma Islands - Bahamas

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Wednesday, February 8, 2017 5:02 PM


To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Engine Room Extractor Fan - Loose wire

 

 

Hi Mark. Don’t kill the messenger..

 

I seem to dimly recall ( dimness happens more and more… ) that Cheriff changed some of the details regarding the fans when he replaced the engine in your boat. Sorry that this information is nearly useless as I don’t recall just what he changed but it might be helpful if you get stumped if your set up does not look like sistserships.

 

Good luck with the sleuthing.

 

All the Best, Joel

 

Joel F. Potter/Cruising Yacht Specialist LLC

THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY

954 462 5869 office

954 812 2485 cell

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2017 4:32 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Engine Room Extractor Fan - Loose wire

 

 

Hi Alexandre,

 

Thank you for the pictures. Our set ups are a little different. Unfortunately, I do not see an empty spade to connect the white wire to other than the central post. But, on all relays, the central post is blank. Hence, I am stumped.

 

The DC part of the exhaust does run off the 24v system. However, I am not sure it is connected to the 12v relay or the 24v realy. I read Oliver’s post with interest when he explained this. This is an area of the boat that I haven’t had to learn yet. But now I am trying because I have to.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currenlty cruising - Exuma Islands - Bahamas

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Wednesday, February 8, 2017 2:30 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Engine Room Extractor Fan - Loose wire

 

 

Good afternoon Mark,

I just went down the engine room.
Even thought our Hull number are petty closed, somehow, mine shows “2” fans…

Not sure it will help you, but I just added a pictures on http://nikimat.com/engine_room_fans.html
If you have slow internet, the pictures I just added is the following:
http://nikimat.com/engine_room_fans/engine_room_fan_2b.jpg

Out of curiosity, are your 24 volt fans connected to 24 volt???
My 24 Volt are connected to 12 volt. Olivier explain that some time ago.
Also, you have 3 Durupteor, is one for the 220 Volt? Or do you happen to have a 3rd 24 volt fan (intake our outage).
Just curious…

I enjoyed the Exumas! Spent 6 weeks there, I could anchor and not see another boat… (quite the opposite here).

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Harbor View Marina, Tortola, BVI

--------------------------------------------
On Wed, 2/8/17, 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Engine Room Extractor Fan - Loose wire
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Wednesday, February 8, 2017, 12:47 PM


 

















Hi All,

 

I need a little help
please from someone that has a similar
year model or set up as Cream Puff 1999/2000 Super Maramu
2000.

 

The engine room 24v
extractor fan stopped working (the 220v fan
on the same pipe exhaust works fine). This is the fan that
turns on with the
engine ignition switch. It blows out under the smaller
port-side cockpit winch.
The blower onto the engine works fine.

 

I looked at the breaker
rely area and notice a white wire
has disconnected (please see picture – click the link
below). If you have
a similar set up, could you please tell me what relay and
terminal this wire
connects. Many thanks!

 

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/04oud4t5546riku/AAAWMVvIUCLqiETHMMqXvU-ja?dl=0


 

 

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream
Puff - SM2K - #275

Currenlty cruising –
Exuma Islands - Bahamas

www.creampuff.us

 
















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Asking for Manuals in Spanish

rcavie <no_reply@...>
 

Hi to all.


I want to know if anyone has a manual of Super Maramu 2000 in Spanish or English in PDF or electronic book.

I appreciate your help. 

Thank you


Rafael

Applicant to AMEL owner!!