Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Wearing out bearing

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi all.
While the wearing out bearing seems expensive, in the context of a biannual change at the time of a regular haul out its not too bad. BUT in the context that it is protecting a very expensive drive system, gears and bearings it is cheap. Oil with water in it has dramatically reduced lubricating qualities and should be avoided. So, I change mine biannually and would not penny pinch with sleeves if I had any doubt at all as to the efficacy, (and I have).
Cheers
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl



From: "'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners]"
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Tuesday, 6 December 2016 3:05 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Wearing out bearing

 
That is worth a lot, and is what I thought.
I believe that the SM Maintenance Schedule in the Files section states the same. I don't have the internet to verify.
Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Currently St John
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On Dec 5, 2016 9:47 AM, "Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
For what it is worth, the original service documents from our boats commissioning specify the 800 hours interval.

Bill Kinney
SM #160, Harmonie
On the Hard, Fort Lauderdale, FL
“Ships and men rot in port."


On Dec 5, 2016, at 06:02, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups. com> wrote:

Craig,

I have been in the tropics most of the time and during our circumnavigation
we averaged about 350 hours a year. I believe that Amel told me 800 engine
hours on the C Drive bushing and seals. I will reply back if I have that in
writing. I believe 3 years in the Med will work with good antifouling, but
2 years is about the outside limit in the tropics.

So, maybe you understand my 2 year haulout interval? There years would have
been too much for me.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On Dec 5, 2016 1:09 AM, "sangaris@... [amelyachtowners]" <
amelyachtowners@yahoogroups. com> wrote:






Re: Shaft alternator amel maramu

Kenneth Coats
 

I have 1985 Maramu 192.
I would guess this is the original prop shaft alternator.  Belt is 10 or so grooves about 1.25" wide
I can measure the pulleys if you need, as is in my shop at the moment.
Ken Coats
Golden Daze
Hampstead NC

Seq QtyOnHand PartLocation PartBrand PartNbr PartDesc
901 0 Prop Shaft Alternator Motorola 9AR2809D NGM series 25 Amp SEM 11 AN 85
GDParts
Seq QtyOnHand PartLocation PartBrand PartNbr PartDesc
900
Prop Shaft AlternatorBelt Hutchinson 1092J Poly V


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Watermaker

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Paul,

I am fairly sure that you are getting air into the system. 

There are a lot of ways, but the most common way I see owners getting air into the system is when they change filters. When changing filters, you should always fill the filter canister completely full, then the trick I use is: before tightening down the canister, I slightly turn ON the flushing valve until water spurts out the top of the filter cannister, then tighten it down.

If you feel that you have not allowed air in this way, maybe you should spray some soapy water on the suction side of your watermaker hoses beginning with the hose from the saltwater manifold. Hoses get brittle when they get old and will sometimes leak on suction without leaking on pressure.

I hope this helps you find how air is getting into your watermaker.

Regarding sampling, I modified the output of the Dessalator D160 watermaker to go to a 3-way valve. In one position the valve allows water into the tank, in the other position, water goes to a tap at the galley sink for testing and discard. It is not an easy project. I copied what a Dessalator Rep did on another SM in Martinique. I believe that there might be an easier way that what the Dessalator Rep did and I copied, because he drilled through the engine room/galley bulkhead to run two hoses...it is all properly sealed, but it is difficult to make sure that you are drilling in the correct position from one side to the other...and that bulkhead is double-walled.

You might also check the inline electronic monitoring that Gary Silver did on his SM with a D160. It is in the photo section. It is really nice because it is a continuous TDS monitoring system.

I hope this helps you.

Bill Rouse
BeBe #387
St John, USVI

On Mon, Dec 5, 2016 at 2:22 PM, osterberg.paul.l@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

We hardly get any water out of the tap at the control panel for testing, when we start the WM there is always a lot if air in the flow glas but it dissapeare after afew minutes, capacity around 45 to 50 litrs for our D60. Anyone know what the problem could be?
Paul on S/Y Kerpa SM 259 heading fo St Lucia



Re: Watermaker

Paul Osterberg
 

We hardly get any water out of the tap at the control panel for testing, when we start the WM there is always a lot if air in the flow glas but it dissapeare after afew minutes, capacity around 45 to 50 litrs for our D60. Anyone know what the problem could be?
Paul on S/Y Kerpa SM 259 heading fo St Lucia


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Wearing out bearing

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

That is worth a lot, and is what I thought.

I believe that the SM Maintenance Schedule in the Files section states the same. I don't have the internet to verify.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Currently St John
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Dec 5, 2016 9:47 AM, "Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

For what it is worth, the original service documents from our boats commissioning specify the 800 hours interval.


Bill Kinney
SM #160, Harmonie
On the Hard, Fort Lauderdale, FL
“Ships and men rot in port."


On Dec 5, 2016, at 06:02, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Craig,

I have been in the tropics most of the time and during our circumnavigation
we averaged about 350 hours a year. I believe that Amel told me 800 engine
hours on the C Drive bushing and seals. I will reply back if I have that in
writing. I believe 3 years in the Med will work with good antifouling, but
2 years is about the outside limit in the tropics.

So, maybe you understand my 2 year haulout interval? There years would have
been too much for me.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On Dec 5, 2016 1:09 AM, "sangaris@... [amelyachtowners]" <
amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Wearing out bearing

Bill Kinney <greatketch@...>
 

For what it is worth, the original service documents from our boats commissioning specify the 800 hours interval.

Bill Kinney
SM #160, Harmonie
On the Hard, Fort Lauderdale, FL
“Ships and men rot in port."


On Dec 5, 2016, at 06:02, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Craig,

I have been in the tropics most of the time and during our circumnavigation
we averaged about 350 hours a year. I believe that Amel told me 800 engine
hours on the C Drive bushing and seals. I will reply back if I have that in
writing. I believe 3 years in the Med will work with good antifouling, but
2 years is about the outside limit in the tropics.

So, maybe you understand my 2 year haulout interval? There years would have
been too much for me.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On Dec 5, 2016 1:09 AM, "sangaris@... [amelyachtowners]" <
amelyachtowners@...> wrote:



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Wearing out bearing

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Craig,

The only time I had water is when we were in the Med and the Yanmar had low hours at the two year mark...and I decided to put the service off until the next haulout. As it turned out, our next haulout was 3 months later because of water intrusion. That particular haulout, fortunately, was our cheapest haulout at Olympic Marina, Barcelona at 350 euro total for haul, splash and two days!

Lesson learned:
Make a rule and live by it, or things will bite you in the butt.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Dec 5, 2016 7:31 AM, "sangaris@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Bill,

Got it - sounds a good plan. 
Any water intrusion with your two year / ~ 350 hour schedule?
Craig


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: boxtron replacement

JEFFREY KRAUS
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Wearing out bearing

Craig Briggs
 

Bill,
Got it - sounds a good plan. 
Any water intrusion with your two year / ~ 350 hour schedule?
Craig


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Wearing out bearing

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Craig,

I have been in the tropics most of the time and during our circumnavigation we averaged about 350 hours a year. I believe that Amel told me 800 engine hours on the C Drive bushing and seals. I will reply back if I have that in writing. I believe 3 years in the Med will work with good antifouling, but 2 years is about the outside limit in the tropics.

So, maybe you understand my 2 year haulout interval? There years would have been too much for me.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Dec 5, 2016 1:09 AM, "sangaris@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi Bill,

Interesting reply... just out of curiosity have you been seeing water intrusion with your every-two-years changing schedule? I'd expect it's more of a function of how many engine hours rather than just time in the water - what's your experience in that regard? I've been getting roughly 900 hours between lip seal changes, that is, about 300 hours per year for 3 years. I haven't seen Amel's recommendation, but is it every two years regardless of engine hours? If so, that seems odd. I wonder why they recommend time and not hours, or a combination. Seal changes with industrial machinery are normally specified by hours and/or visual inspection.

And, on that subject, is there a schedule for the "C" drive upper lip seal? I changed mine only when it started to leak at about 6000 hours (some 20 years). Of course, there is no soft metal wearing-out-bearing there, so you'd expect a long life.  When did you change yours (or have you)?

Regarding bottom paint, my experience for many years in the Med was that it was totally effective for three years, so I choose not to incur the expense of a haul/paint job just because it may be "recommended". Seems like a bit of a self-serving recommendation on the part of the paint company. Then again, I do go to the extra effort of diving on the bottom a couple of times a season to clean it and that may be the difference from your experience. I wonder why your paint company recommends time and not paint condition since bottom paint longevity varies considerably in different regions and boat usage. Then again, your philosophy may co-opt that in that you never want to work on worn out bottom paint. Plus your cruising kitty may be a fatter cat than mine!
Cheers, Craig, SN#68 Sangaris


---In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, wrote :

Craig,

I am changing the wear bushing, seals, and C Drive oil every two years because that is what is recommended by Amel. Also, I renew antifouling with Micron66 every two years because that is what is recommended. I do all these jobs and others every two years when we haul BeBe #387.

It has been my goal since owning BeBe to never have to work on something that is broken or worn out. My goal is to do the scheduled maintenance when it is due. It has worked for me in almost all things on BeBe.

This is what I do. I completely respect your opinion and the opinion of others. I offered my opinion and what I do and asked I straightforward question about Speedi Sleeves because I do not get the benefit, and, of course because I am the resident advocate of "The Amel Way."

Best,

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail




Re: Watermaker

Alan Leslie
 

Hi Duane

we have  Duo 60 and the light turns from bad to good after two minutes regardless...
I have to say tho that the water is good after two minutes...I always test it with a TDS meter.
I'm sure the sensor is not connected

Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM 437


Re: Watermaker

Duane Siegfri
 

Gary,

It creates a puddle promptly.  I haven't yet taken it back apart.

I wonder if the Duo 60 L/H version has the same problem with the salinity meter?  I sent Maud an email asking about that some time ago and she replied that Amel had never heard of such an issue.  I don't have the test tap to check the product water so I'm going to have to rig one  in the engine room and use a handheld TDS meter.

Question:  It seems there is no manual way to check for salinity and decide to discard the product water, it's all done by the watermaker control panel internally?

Duane


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Wearing out bearing

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Bill,
Interesting reply... just out of curiosity have you been seeing water intrusion with your every-two-years changing schedule? I'd expect it's more of a function of how many engine hours rather than just time in the water - what's your experience in that regard? I've been getting roughly 900 hours between lip seal changes, that is, about 300 hours per year for 3 years. I haven't seen Amel's recommendation, but is it every two years regardless of engine hours? If so, that seems odd. I wonder why they recommend time and not hours, or a combination. Seal changes with industrial machinery are normally specified by hours and/or visual inspection.

And, on that subject, is there a schedule for the "C" drive upper lip seal? I changed mine only when it started to leak at about 6000 hours (some 20 years). Of course, there is no soft metal wearing-out-bearing there, so you'd expect a long life.  When did you change yours (or have you)?

Regarding bottom paint, my experience for many years in the Med was that it was totally effective for three years, so I choose not to incur the expense of a haul/paint job just because it may be "recommended". Seems like a bit of a self-serving recommendation on the part of the paint company. Then again, I do go to the extra effort of diving on the bottom a couple of times a season to clean it and that may be the difference from your experience. I wonder why your paint company recommends time and not paint condition since bottom paint longevity varies considerably in different regions and boat usage. Then again, your philosophy may co-opt that in that you never want to work on worn out bottom paint. Plus your cruising kitty may be a fatter cat than mine!
Cheers, Craig, SN#68 Sangaris


---In amelyachtowners@..., <yahoogroups@...> wrote :

Craig,

I am changing the wear bushing, seals, and C Drive oil every two years because that is what is recommended by Amel. Also, I renew antifouling with Micron66 every two years because that is what is recommended. I do all these jobs and others every two years when we haul BeBe #387.

It has been my goal since owning BeBe to never have to work on something that is broken or worn out. My goal is to do the scheduled maintenance when it is due. It has worked for me in almost all things on BeBe.

This is what I do. I completely respect your opinion and the opinion of others. I offered my opinion and what I do and asked I straightforward question about Speedi Sleeves because I do not get the benefit, and, of course because I am the resident advocate of "The Amel Way."

Best,

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail



Re: boxtron replacement

Bob Hodgins <bobh@...>
 

Jeff,
Yes, the 87a terminal is to use the relay in a normally closed manner, you want to leave that empty and use terminals 87 and 30 to give you a normally open circuit that is closed when activated.
Yes, the relays are necessary to avoid the need to change wiring at the helm and running new wire to the bow locker. To prove my theory on your boat, use your volt meter and pick up the negative anywhere up front in the Boxtron, and read the voltage on each of the original wires coming from the helm. When the switch is activated in each position you should see +24 volts on the corresponding wire. You do not want to apply that voltage to the terminals 4, 5, or 6 in the e14s or you will damage it. To test the other end of the circuit, hook up the e14s with power in and power out. Nothing is happening, but then use a jumper wire (no power) to connect 4 to 5, you will see it turn one direction. Then jump 5 to 6, you will see it run the other way. This is clear on the wiring diagram on the cover of the e14s.
On your note about the switches that activate in the full up/down position, I think you are referring to limit switches, the little blue plastic push button switches. Yes, I have purchased them from RS Component in the UK. Their web site is: http://www.rs-export.com/ and their part number is 223868. Yes, these are the exact same manufacturer that Amel buys from, but RS has them in stock and will ship right away. Amel buys them and solders the wires on (usually on the correct positions).
Bob


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Watermaker

Bob Grey
 

It's the End caps I had to replace all my end caps, cause they split around the bobbin holes. 


Bob Grey
Renaissance 3
Amel 55 #25


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPad

On Friday, December 2, 2016, 21:10, amelliahona

 

Hi Duane:


As with all things plumbing trial and error is the rule.  With a new bobbin and new O-rings that leaves only some sort of damage or contamination of the O-rings, or the bore into which the bobbin fits or your suspected alignment problem.  

How much leakage did you have?  Drops or a gusher?   A seep or drops.  Did you inspect the bore for damage or contamination prior to re-assembly?  Did you lube your O-rings with something to make sure they didn't twist or become deformed while installing them on the bobbin or while inserting the bobbin in its bores?

Just some thoughts. 

Hope you are able to remedy the situation. 

Sincerely, 

Gary S. Silver  s/v Liahona  Amel SM #335  with 160 l/hr Dessalator water maker with re-engineered inline continuous EC (electrical conductivity aka salinity) monitor with alarm and manual control switch for the save/discard solenoid.  

Dessalator took a rather simple system and totally screwed it up by attempting to automate it and then not monitoring their vendors to assure they were providing the proper circuity to do what was promised.  In case some on this forum aren't aware, the Dessalator water makers of my vintage of boat were installed with sham good/bad water sensors and sham circuity  for monitoring water quality.  New owners be aware of this and make certain your system has appropriate water quality measuring capability.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thank you!!!!

karkauai
 

Congrats, Paul!!  Hope we get to meet some time over a beer/wine/rum.

Happy sailing!
Kent
Kristy
SM243


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thank you!!!!

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Congratulations Paul,

Looks like you have one of the very last SM2K !
Hope we meet!

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Harbor View Marina, Tortola, BVI





--------------------------------------------

On Sun, 12/4/16, pstas2003 <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thank you!!!!
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, December 4, 2016, 9:39 AM


 









Good morning to all.

At the suggestion of one of the members, I
joined this group back in June or July and posted that I was
in the market for an Amel SM.

Shortly thereafter, I was notified of a number
of boats that were for sale.  Within a couple days, I
traveled to Trinidad to look at one that I thought held the
most potential.

I looked
at the boat a number of times over a three day period and
made an offer.  We were able to agree on price, and decided
to survey and close in November.

The survey was done over a three day period
(Dave Huffman of Florida - words can’t describe his level
of knowledge of Amel’s and his professionalism - Highly
Recommended), and we closed on November 10.  

The former owners were
gracious enough to spend almost a month with me sailing and
going over maintenance procedures, spare parts inventory,
etc.  I can’t thank them enough... Unfortunately, my wife
was unable to take part in the whole process, but she was
able to join us all over the Thanksgiving Holiday and share
in the celebration.  God willing, we should be able to both
be aboard full time come June.

Our dreams are coming true and I just would
like to thank everyone here for their help, knowledge, and
willingness to share and give.  I have been reading the all
the postings since joining and am delighted and honored to
be a member of this group.

Thank you to all.  Especially to those who
have given so much of themselves to help us find and care
for our new home.

Paul
Stascavage
SM #466 - s/v Rita Kathryn
Rodney Bay Marina - Saint Lucia


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Wearing out bearing

Bill Kinney <greatketch@...>
 

Here is my best memory of how it went…

  1. On the used bearing, measure the spots where the lips of the seal rub on the bearing.
  2. Push the first sleeve on as far as possible with the tool provided.  The sleeve will need to go in further at this point.
  3. Use a piece of pipe (2 inch, schedule 80 is a good fit) to tap it in all the way.  The pipe will push the base of the flange right back to within less than a mm of the shoulder of the bearing.  My recollection is that he flange might distort a little as it comes up against the shoulder, but that’s not a problem.
  4. Remove the flange from the first sleeve as per SKF’s instructions. If is sits flush against the shoulder of the bearing you might not need to do this.
  5. Install the second sleeve using the tool provided. Tap in in until it just clears the chamfer. This is the critical dimension, not its location relative to the first sleeve.  If my memory serves, this can be done without using the pipe.
  6. Check to be sure the sleeves are properly situated relative the the locations you measured in Step 1, i.e., the lips should bear fully on the sleeves NOT on edges shoulders or gaps.
  7. Remove the flange from the second sleeve as per SKF’s instructions.

If the two sleeves overlap a little, or show a small gap it’s not a problem—the seals should not bear at that spot.

As always, when installing the seals, make sure they are well and fully lubricated.  Do this even if you are just checking the fit, you don’t want to scratch or nick the edge of the rubber lip.

Bill Kinney
SM #160, Harmonie
On the Hard, Fort Lauderdale, FL,
Splashing Wednesday, we hope!
“Ships and men rot in port."






On Dec 4, 2016, at 10:55, Vladimir Sonsev sonsev52@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Bill,

Don't send a picture with Speed sleeve, just describe in details Speedi sleeve installation process for our application.

Vladimir
SM #345



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Wearing out bearing

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Craig,

I am changing the wear bushing, seals, and C Drive oil every two years because that is what is recommended by Amel. Also, I renew antifouling with Micron66 every two years because that is what is recommended. I do all these jobs and others every two years when we haul BeBe #387.

It has been my goal since owning BeBe to never have to work on something that is broken or worn out. My goal is to do the scheduled maintenance when it is due. It has worked for me in almost all things on BeBe.

This is what I do. I completely respect your opinion and the opinion of others. I offered my opinion and what I do and asked I straightforward question about Speedi Sleeves because I do not get the benefit, and, of course because I am the resident advocate of "The Amel Way."

Best,

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Dec 4, 2016 11:32 AM, "sangaris@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi Bill,

I think we can safely assume you are changing the wearing-out-bearing every two years because they are, well, "wearing out" and allowing water intrusion, or, if not yet leaking you expect them to and you're doing preventive maintenance. How paradoxical that Amel refers to this as a "wearing-out-bearing" - I'd expect "forever-bearing" would be more Amel-ish!
Anyway, as we all discussed on this thread some years ago, Captain Henri made an unusual choice by not specifying a much harder material for the application, which was the engineering judgement of SKF's seal engineer who reviewed this for me and recommended a much harder material. 
Perhaps the captain assumed owners would replace it regularly as you have, and avoid a problem. I have always gone 3 or 4 seasons and not worried about the "chocolate" oil. The Speedi Sleeves do minimize water intrusion because the bearing is not wearing out, although, of course, the lip seals have a limited life.
Let's hope that the prototype you mention was an attempt to improve on the Captain's original choice and will become available to us.
Cheers, Craig SN#68 Sangaris


---In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, wrote :

Eric,

That is the VERY REASON that I have not tried Speedi Sleeves. I assume the reason for using the sleeves is to get longer life out of the wear bushing. Since I service the C Drive and Bow Thruster every two years when hauled out for antifouling, I cannot justify adding a Speedi Sleeve or two. If you add Speedi Sleeves because you want to  eliminate water intrusion, I suggest that you should review the service  procedure. When it's done correctly, there will not be intrusion.

Now, t hat said, Amel accidentally shipped what I believe is a test prototype of a wear bushing with chrome plating where the seals ride on the bushing. I have not been able to get the story behind this chrome plated wear bushing from Amel. The person who has this part is going to try it shortly, but it will probably be a year or two before he has any reportable results.

Does anyone in the Group have any inside information on this partially chrome plated wear bushing? Maybe he shouldn't try it?

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Dec 3, 2016 6:59 PM, "'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

The excess sleeve that hangs over the wearing out bearing can easily be removed with a dremel tool. Takes a minute.

Also I was able to get the two sleeves to butt up against each other , Unfortunately I forgot how.

Why not just buy a few new ones from Amel they are only 149 euros each?

Fair Wi nds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups. com [mailto:amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups.com]
Sent:< /b> Saturday, December 03, 2016 5:12 PM


To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups. com
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Wearing out bearing

 

 

Craig,

Thanks a lot for providing details. That is very important.

I do not have the sleeves yet. I am just thinking how can I install two sleeves on the bushing. The wear bushing is 28 mm long plus 2 mm chamfer. That is total 30 mm.

A sleeve with a flange is 17 mm long.&nbsp ; A sleeve without a flange is 14 mm. There will be a gap between the sleevs 1 mm or more. Totally two sleeves will cover cove 17+14+1=32 mm.

Therefore the second sleeve will cover the chamfer and overhang the wear bushing by 2 mm.

Is this correct??

 

On Dec 3, 2016 7:52 AM, "sangaris@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups. com> wrote:

 

 

Hi Vladimir,

It sounds like the issue is that you are tr ying to push on the edge of the sleeve, which is incorrect. You must only push on the flange, never on the edge of the sleeve. No special tools needed.

You install the first sleeve with the flange side down, that is, the flange goes on first and you do not remove that flange. Again, you are pushing on the flange, not the edge. You then cut a notch in the flange of the second sleeve and then put it on again flange first, sliding it down so it is very close to the first one. Again, you only push on the flanges, not the edge of the sleeve. Finally, you take a pliers and remove the flange of the second sleeve (not the first sleeve). There will be a small gap between the two sleeves after you remove the flange - not a problem as no seals rub there.

Hope that helps,

Cheers, Craig, SN#68 S angaris

 



---In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups. com, <sonsev52@...> wrote :

Hi Crag,

I have reviewed the instructions. Instructions are not applicable for our case.
Instructions recommend to push Speedi sleeves by the flange. It will not work for us. Because the  first sleeve should contact a bushing shoulder by it's edge after the flange is removed. That is additional 2.99 mm. Similar situation is with a second sleeve. It s hould contact the end of the first sleeve after the flange is removed. Both sleeves have to be pushed for 2.99 mm by force that is applied on a sleeve edge. The edges are very thin. You need a special tool that slides with minimum clerance on the outer edge of the sleeve with a step to smaller diameter that slids on the wear bushing. That tool has to be made. It will cost probubly $100.00 or $200.00. The edge of the sleeve should not be damaged during installation. If sleev's edge is damaged it can cut a seal during installation.

Perhaps Speedi sleeve option is not practical in our application because sleeve's installation has to deviat from SKF instructions.

Vladimir
SM # 345



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thank you!!!!

Mark Erdos
 

Hi Paul,

 

Congratulations on Rita Kathryn.

 

We look to bumping into you later this year somewhere in the Caribbean Islands.

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Super Maramu 2000

Hull #275

www.creampuff.us

Currently cruising:  Still in Tampa Bay

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of pstas2003
Sent: Sunday, December 04, 2016 10:40 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thank you!!!!

 

 

Good morning to all.

At the suggestion of one of the members, I joined this group back in June or July and posted that I was in the market for an Amel SM.

Shortly thereafter, I was notified of a number of boats that were for sale.  Within a couple days, I traveled to Trinidad to look at one that I thought held the most potential.

I looked at the boat a number of times over a three day period and made an offer.  We were able to agree on price, and decided to survey and close in November.

The survey was done over a three day period (Dave Huffman of Florida - words can’t describe his level of knowledge of Amel’s and his professionalism - Highly Recommended), and we closed on November 10.  

The former owners were gracious enough to spend almost a month with me sailing and going over maintenance procedures, spare parts inventory, etc.  I can’t thank them enough... Unfortunately, my wife was unable to take part in the whole process, but she was able to join us all over the Thanksgiving Holiday and share in the celebration.  God willing, we should be able to both be aboard full time come June.

Our dreams are coming true and I just would like to thank everyone here for their help, knowledge, and willingness to share and give.  I have been reading the all the postings since joining and am delighted and honored to be a member of this group.

Thank you to all.  Especially to those who have given so much of themselves to help us find and care for our new home.

Paul Stascavage
SM #466 - s/v Rita Kathryn
Rodney Bay Marina - Saint Lucia