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Re: Volvo oil pressure sensor
Hi Paul. We had the same exact issue.
Volvo sends their standard non-isolated engine to Volvo France, which does the ground isolation for Amel. This process does not get recorded to the serial number of the engine. Therefore, if you order a part from the serial number that
Volvo France has changed, you will receive the wrong part.
The correct part number is 863169 CAPTEUR PRESSION. We ordered from Gwen Marine Service in France as recommended by Amel. They were 78 Euros each, 3 years ago. We also ordered a spare.
Happy Sailing;
Mohammad and Aty
B&B Kokomo
AMEL 54 #099
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
On Behalf Of Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown via groups.io
Sent: Monday, July 20, 2020 8:35 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Volvo oil pressure sensor
Hi all,
I ordered a replacement oil pressure sensor from a UK Volvo dealer, Volspec. The engineer on the boat who was to do the replacement (as I am not on the boat at present) tells me the part sent is incorrect as it has only
one connector pin whereas the old one that was removed has two. Volspec insists that the part is correct.
My engine is a D3-110i-C, 2008 model
The sensor p/n is 3545696
I would be interested to know if anyone has had any similar experience, or would be able to confirm if the sensor has 1 or 2 pins.
Thanks in advance.
Cheers,
Paul
S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada
--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98
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Volvo oil pressure sensor
Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown
Hi all, I ordered a replacement oil pressure sensor from a UK Volvo dealer, Volspec. The engineer on the boat who was to do the replacement (as I am not on the boat at present) tells me the part sent is incorrect as it has only one connector pin whereas the old one that was removed has two. Volspec insists that the part is correct. My engine is a D3-110i-C, 2008 model The sensor p/n is 3545696 I would be interested to know if anyone has had any similar experience, or would be able to confirm if the sensor has 1 or 2 pins. Thanks in advance. Cheers, Paul S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada -- Cheers Paul Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98
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Re: SM 1990 drive unit seals
Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi
Hi Mitchell,
Thanks!! Our fibreglass did not have the aluminium part, at least not since we have the boat, we have taken it apart many times in the 20 years we have her, probably Amel made the change after our hull. We changed all the bearings and gears in the upper part, but didn’t touch the lower. Have you changed the viscosity of the oil you use or do you still use the 15W 40? All the best, Helen and Kostas on Meditation SM 29 of 1990
On 20 Jul 2020, at 12:03 AM, Mitchell Petersen <Mitchell.j.petersen@...> wrote:
I have the aluminium one which I recently fully rebuilt with all new bearings on both the upper and lower unit which requires cutting through the fibreglass and glassing back to original shape.
There is meant to be a small (approx. 2-3 inches) section of aluminium tubing glassed into the lower unit where the propelled shaft exits the until / where the fibreglass tapers which sounds like is no longer there since your service.
Mitchell SN33 1993 On Sat., 18 Jul. 2020, 1:11 am Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi, < helenmi57@...> wrote: I’m sending the plans Maud sent me. It’s not exactly like any of them. We’ve measured the difference between the aluminum and the fibreglass and it’s 3mm, but again there is nothing to hold an O-ring in place.
Many thanks, Helen and Kostas Meditation SM 29 in 1990
Hi Bill,
Thanks for the prompt reply! Unfortunately ours is different and doesn’t have the O rings , or any likely place to put one. I’m sending you photos to see what ours is like. On looking at the plans Amel sent us our set up is not exactly those either. We have bolts to fix it in place which are inserted from under the fibreglass part, shown in one of the photos. It might be possible to put an O-Ring around the aluminum part which inserts slightly into the fibreglass, only there is nothing there to hold it in place, any ideas will be very much appreciated!! Thanks again Helen and Kostas on Meditation SM 29 of 1990 <image0.jpeg> <image1.jpeg> On 17 Jul 2020, at 4:54 PM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
The drawing shows 2 each "Joint Toriques" which is an O-Ring. Follow this link.
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CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
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Address:
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550
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On Fri, Jul 17, 2020 at 8:31 AM Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi < helenmi57@...> wrote: We are having trouble with the seal between the transmission and the rest of the drive unit after having it serviced. The oil leaked out between the transmission box and the fibreglass part of the drive unit. The machine shop had used a paper gasket and some sort of red sealant. We are on anchor so are trying to do it ourselves.
We took it apart and resealed it , it leaked again after about 4 hrs motoring. We had used a high Temperature RTV gasket maker but no paper gasket because we thought that that was the way it was originally.
We have the plans from Amel, but it is not clear if there should be a paper gasket.
Should we try to find card to cut a gasket or try again with the RTV gasket maker? The fibreglass part is not in a very good condition.
Helen and Kostas on Meditation SM 29 of 1990
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Re: 110 HP Yanmar raw water pump access
Porter,
Volvo has the same thing that was shown for Yanmar.
Volvo Penta Impeller Removal Tool 3843948 for D3 using impeller 21951352
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CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
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Address:
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550
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Could a Moly bolt, drywall bolt be helpful in removing the non-threaded impellers? We've had 2 engines. The first impeller location (volvo d3-c) was a bear to deal with. The second, a bit better (D3-H). Always looking for solutions to ease the job.
Porter A54-152
Eric, Mark, and Bill, Thanks for all the great suggestions. I am going to take all of them and keep the boat.
Mark, I have the impeller removal tool, but the last mechanic put it in backwards...Grrrr.
Thanks again, Kent
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Re: A 55 # 9 : Chargeing and mastershunts
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CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
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Address:
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550
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On Sun, Jul 19, 2020 at 3:50 PM Stuart Hemingway < stuart@...> wrote: Hello Joerg, Thank you for your reply regarding the two shunts . There are two and they appear to installed in parallel. We don’t know why. We hope to progress this directly . Thank you for your suggestion of Thierry & Stephane at Pochon . Do you have Stephane’s full email address please. Stuart A.55 in Panama
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Re: SM 1990 drive unit seals
I have the aluminium one which I recently fully rebuilt with all new bearings on both the upper and lower unit which requires cutting through the fibreglass and glassing back to original shape.
There is meant to be a small (approx. 2-3 inches) section of aluminium tubing glassed into the lower unit where the propelled shaft exits the until / where the fibreglass tapers which sounds like is no longer there since your service.
Mitchell SN33 1993
On Sat., 18 Jul. 2020, 1:11 am Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi, < helenmi57@...> wrote: I’m sending the plans Maud sent me. It’s not exactly like any of them. We’ve measured the difference between the aluminum and the fibreglass and it’s 3mm, but again there is nothing to hold an O-ring in place.
Many thanks, Helen and Kostas Meditation SM 29 in 1990
Hi Bill,
Thanks for the prompt reply! Unfortunately ours is different and doesn’t have the O rings , or any likely place to put one. I’m sending you photos to see what ours is like. On looking at the plans Amel sent us our set up is not exactly those either. We have bolts to fix it in place which are inserted from under the fibreglass part, shown in one of the photos. It might be possible to put an O-Ring around the aluminum part which inserts slightly into the fibreglass, only there is nothing there to hold it in place, any ideas will be very much appreciated!! Thanks again Helen and Kostas on Meditation SM 29 of 1990 <image0.jpeg> <image1.jpeg> On 17 Jul 2020, at 4:54 PM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
The drawing shows 2 each "Joint Toriques" which is an O-Ring. Follow this link.
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CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
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Address:
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550
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On Fri, Jul 17, 2020 at 8:31 AM Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi < helenmi57@...> wrote: We are having trouble with the seal between the transmission and the rest of the drive unit after having it serviced. The oil leaked out between the transmission box and the fibreglass part of the drive unit. The machine shop had used a paper gasket and some sort of red sealant. We are on anchor so are trying to do it ourselves.
We took it apart and resealed it , it leaked again after about 4 hrs motoring. We had used a high Temperature RTV gasket maker but no paper gasket because we thought that that was the way it was originally.
We have the plans from Amel, but it is not clear if there should be a paper gasket.
Should we try to find card to cut a gasket or try again with the RTV gasket maker? The fibreglass part is not in a very good condition.
Helen and Kostas on Meditation SM 29 of 1990
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A 55 # 9 : Chargeing and mastershunts
Hello Joerg, Thank you for your reply regarding the two shunts . There are two and they appear to installed in parallel. We don’t know why. We hope to progress this directly . Thank you for your suggestion of Thierry & Stephane at Pochon . Do you have Stephane’s full email address please. Stuart A.55 in Panama
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Re: Possible damage from transport ships stacks. Has anyone experienced?
Thank you for all the comments and suggestions. Our Ibis is prepared for the worst despite multiple attempts to allay concern. Better safe than sorry! I’ll relay our success or failures.
Loading today. Fingers crossed.
Porter
A54-152
Excuse the errors.
Sent from my IPhone
Www.fouribis.net
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
On Jul 19, 2020, at 1:16 PM, Doug Smith via groups.io <dugsmith98=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Porter,
We just unloaded from a transatlantic shipment, Palma to Ft Lauderdale, and left the main and mizzen in place. All other canvas removed, and no real issues besides the salt, and general dust from sitting on a transport ship. And of course the recent Saharan dust storm that crossed the atlantic with it. And of course the locusts and plague...2020...
Doug Smith
S/V Aventura, Amel 54-113
Deltaville, VA USA
On 7/14/20, 12:03 AM, "Porter McRoberts via groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io on behalf of portermcroberts=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Ladies and Gents.
A quick question if you would. We’re in the midst of shipping our Amel out of NZ with Sevenstar. Incidentally the delivery skipper encountered the marina manager who relayed multiple horror stories of transport ship’s smokestack ash and embers causing severe burns to sails, canvas sailboat decks etc. Needless to say I was taken aback. This was never discussed in our pregame !!!
Has anyone else encountered such issues?
I’d really appreciate any input.
Many thanks.
Porter
A54-152.
Excuse the errors.
Sent from my IPhone
Www.fouribis.net
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Re: SM 1990 drive unit seals
Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi
Hi John, Thanks a lot!! Best regards,
On 19 Jul 2020, at 4:00 PM, John Clark <john.biohead@...> wrote:
My friend here in St Thomas has SM #24. He also has the aluminum drive. Didier in Martinique rebuilt his drive a couple of years ago. I will forward this to him and see if he has any insight.
Regards, John
SV Annie SM 37 St Thomas USVI On Fri, Jul 17, 2020 at 11:31 AM CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...> wrote: I did not understand your original email.
Apparently, you have the original aluminum C-Drive. I have never seen one of these. Someone told me that Amel replaced these. I do not know if that replacement story is accurate or not.
I do not believe that I can help you.
Bill
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CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
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Address:
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550
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On Fri, Jul 17, 2020 at 10:11 AM Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi < helenmi57@...> wrote: I’m sending the plans Maud sent me. It’s not exactly like any of them. We’ve measured the difference between the aluminum and the fibreglass and it’s 3mm, but again there is nothing to hold an O-ring in place.
Many thanks, Helen and Kostas Meditation SM 29 in 1990
Hi Bill,
Thanks for the prompt reply! Unfortunately ours is different and doesn’t have the O rings , or any likely place to put one. I’m sending you photos to see what ours is like. On looking at the plans Amel sent us our set up is not exactly those either. We have bolts to fix it in place which are inserted from under the fibreglass part, shown in one of the photos. It might be possible to put an O-Ring around the aluminum part which inserts slightly into the fibreglass, only there is nothing there to hold it in place, any ideas will be very much appreciated!! Thanks again Helen and Kostas on Meditation SM 29 of 1990 <image0.jpeg> <image1.jpeg> On 17 Jul 2020, at 4:54 PM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
The drawing shows 2 each "Joint Toriques" which is an O-Ring. Follow this link.
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CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
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Address:
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550
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On Fri, Jul 17, 2020 at 8:31 AM Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi < helenmi57@...> wrote: We are having trouble with the seal between the transmission and the rest of the drive unit after having it serviced. The oil leaked out between the transmission box and the fibreglass part of the drive unit. The machine shop had used a paper gasket and some sort of red sealant. We are on anchor so are trying to do it ourselves.
We took it apart and resealed it , it leaked again after about 4 hrs motoring. We had used a high Temperature RTV gasket maker but no paper gasket because we thought that that was the way it was originally.
We have the plans from Amel, but it is not clear if there should be a paper gasket.
Should we try to find card to cut a gasket or try again with the RTV gasket maker? The fibreglass part is not in a very good condition.
Helen and Kostas on Meditation SM 29 of 1990
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Re: Vintage Maramu dinghy stowage
I have it inflated on the foredeck and it is strapped upside down. Very easy. The visibility from the helm is a little restricted, but for me the best solution so far. Dieter Fal-lera, Sharki #135 Von: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> Im Auftrag von smiles bernard via groups.io
Gesendet: Freitag, 17. Juli 2020 19:48
An: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Vintage Maramu dinghy stowage When offshore do you use chicks on the deck and deflate or just strap it down inflated? Likewise I’ve never seen the pudgy before - love a dinghy with a sail !
On 17 Jul 2020, at 14:31, INUS - BUSCH via groups.io <inusbusch@...> wrote:
@ Aras: I have never seen a Portland pudgy, it looks nice and sails! What I have is a UL 270 Aluminum from 3d tender, inflatable with aluminium bottom, which fits on the fore deck of my sharki, weight is only 28 kg! Dieter Fal-lera, Sharki #135 I traded in our inflatable for a Portland Pudgy. She tows quite nicely, however on longer passages I do have to mount it on the foredeck. AS with the Maramu, the Sharki's stern tapers quite a bit and the aft deck is not quite big enough to stow the Pudgy there. So far I've been stowing it upside down. It makes it a bit harder to load and unload off the deck. I'm working on building a new cradle that would allow me to stow upright. One other option I'm thinking about are low profile dink davits made of carbon fiber [the mizzen boom overhangs transom]. The davits would help greatly on short passages and make it easier to move boat around in tight places and improve visibility. Does anyone know of an outfit that works with carbon fiber? Hi there
I’d be really interested to hear of others Maramu dinghy choice wrt stowage
The transom of the Maramu is quite a bit narrower than the SM and later models - as such davits don’t feel right as any dink would overhang the sides If the boat a lot
Plus I have a much treasured Hydrovane on the back
We currently carry an inflatable and also a nesting affair I made
The nesting dinghy stows Inverted under the mizzen boom but that space is not big enough for the inflatable which I pack up and stow in the fwd locker
Really interested in the options people have explored.
Does anyone mount their dinghy right side up on the deck on the foredeck? I’ve seen a few SMs with this setup but feels tight re space on the Maramu
All the very best
Miles
Maramu 162
Looks like we are heading off as
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Re: Possible damage from transport ships stacks. Has anyone experienced?
Porter,
We just unloaded from a transatlantic shipment, Palma to Ft Lauderdale, and left the main and mizzen in place. All other canvas removed, and no real issues besides the salt, and general dust from sitting on a transport ship. And of course the recent Saharan dust storm that crossed the atlantic with it. And of course the locusts and plague...2020...
Doug Smith
S/V Aventura, Amel 54-113
Deltaville, VA USA
On 7/14/20, 12:03 AM, "Porter McRoberts via groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io on behalf of portermcroberts=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Ladies and Gents.
A quick question if you would. We’re in the midst of shipping our Amel out of NZ with Sevenstar. Incidentally the delivery skipper encountered the marina manager who relayed multiple horror stories of transport ship’s smokestack ash and embers causing severe burns to sails, canvas sailboat decks etc. Needless to say I was taken aback. This was never discussed in our pregame !!!
Has anyone else encountered such issues?
I’d really appreciate any input.
Many thanks.
Porter
A54-152.
Excuse the errors.
Sent from my IPhone
Www.fouribis.net
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Re: 110 HP Yanmar raw water pump access
Could a Moly bolt, drywall bolt be helpful in removing the non-threaded impellers? We've had 2 engines. The first impeller location (volvo d3-c) was a bear to deal with. The second, a bit better (D3-H). Always looking for solutions to ease the job.
Porter A54-152
Eric, Mark, and Bill, Thanks for all the great suggestions. I am going to take all of them and keep the boat.
Mark, I have the impeller removal tool, but the last mechanic put it in backwards...Grrrr.
Thanks again, Kent
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Re: 110 HP Yanmar raw water pump access
karkauai
Eric, Mark, and Bill, Thanks for all the great suggestions. I am going to take all of them and keep the boat.
Mark, I have the impeller removal tool, but the last mechanic put it in backwards...Grrrr.
Thanks again, Kent
On Jul 18, 2020 8:58 PM, "karkauai via groups.io" <karkauai@...> wrote: I know a few SMo have repowered with the Yanmar 4JH4HTE. The raw water pump is on the aft/starboard side next to the fuel tank. It's almost impossible for me to change the impeller without removing hoses and alternator, and even then it's hours of struggling and cussing before it's done.
I'm writing to ask others if they are having the same problem, and how they deal with it. I'm considering removing that impeller and putting in a remote raw water pump. Previously mechanics have discouraged me from doing that, but I'm at wits end.
Any advice, thoughts, etc are greatly appreciated.
Kent
SM243
Kristy
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Re: 110 HP Yanmar raw water pump access
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CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
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Address:
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550
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Mark, The thumbscrews are for the cover plate for the water pump. They are a lot easier to hold and install. Eric
On July 19, 2020 at 12:42 AM Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:
Very cool! Thanks!
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia
www.creampuff.us
Try using these using these thumb screws. They are so much easier then the ones supplied with the pump.
Fair Winds,
Eric
SM 376
https://www.mcmaster.com/screws/system-of-measurement~metric/thumb-screws/metric-stainless-steel-raised-knurled-head-thumb-screws/
On July 19, 2020 at 12:13 AM Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:
Hi Kent,
I do mine by brail.
Are you using threaded impellers? These make a huge difference:
The above tool is used for installation and removal.
I have a little tool kit just for this job. It includes a nut-driver to remove the cover and a wrench for the impeller tool and the impeller tool.
Being left handed is an advantage.
When installing the impeller, use lots of dishwashing detergent to coat the blades. This lube allows it to go in smoothly. No need to worry about the orientation of the blades. It’ll correct itself on the first revolution. And, when you start the engine and see soapy water outside of the boat you know it is working.
I leave a blue shop paper-towel under the raw water pump for the first few minutes the engine is running to check for any leaks.
Before I started using this tool I removed the components on that side of the engine. It is only few bolts and a couple of hoses. This made access to the pump very easy from the top. However, it made the job longer and cut into my beer time. Now I can change the impeller in about 15-20 minutes (if I don’t drop anything).
Hope this helps.
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia
www.creampuff.us
I know a few SMo have repowered with the Yanmar 4JH4HTE. The raw water pump is on the aft/starboard side next to the fuel tank. It's almost impossible for me to change the impeller without removing hoses and alternator, and even then it's hours of struggling and cussing before it's done.
I'm writing to ask others if they are having the same problem, and how they deal with it. I'm considering removing that impeller and putting in a remote raw water pump. Previously mechanics have discouraged me from doing that, but I'm at wits end.
Any advice, thoughts, etc are greatly appreciated.
Kent
SM243
Kristy
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Re: Chest freezer on keel cooling not keeping up so much
Craig Briggs
Billy,
Your keel cooler is definitely going to perform in warmer water - actually it will be more efficient than in cold water (see my recent post on that subject). So 27º C is fine for cooling water and probably is not much different than your cabin air temp. Per that recent post of mine, refrigerant coming out of your compressor as a high pressure gas condenses at ~ 50ºC. A much lower cooling water temp (say < 20º C ) is actually inefficient.
Have you checked the refrigerant temps on the high and low sides of both systems for comparison and your keel cooler in and out temps? That might give you a clue, but the ambient water temperature is definitely not the problem.
Good luck with it.
Craig
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QSails.com 1.642,00 € in red/white/blue triradial, just like the original.
Bill
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CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
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Address:
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550
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Can anyone tell me which is the usual price for a SM ballooner? (tri-radial cut and parallel cut)
Leo
SM 69
Yin Yang in Fiji (I am in Austria)
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Re: Lubrication of the Mechanism That Drives The Main Sail Furling Unit
Craig Briggs
Hi Kent,
The "dust cover" is not a lip seal, it's a "V" dirt seal - NAK V-045 50-40-4.5.
The lip seals are: top: 58 46 7; bottom: 33 25 6
Also, I think that assembly just wants grease, not gear oil, like your winches.
Craig
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Re: SM 1990 drive unit seals
My friend here in St Thomas has SM #24. He also has the aluminum drive. Didier in Martinique rebuilt his drive a couple of years ago. I will forward this to him and see if he has any insight.
Regards, John
SV Annie SM 37 St Thomas USVI
On Fri, Jul 17, 2020 at 11:31 AM CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...> wrote: I did not understand your original email.
Apparently, you have the original aluminum C-Drive. I have never seen one of these. Someone told me that Amel replaced these. I do not know if that replacement story is accurate or not.
I do not believe that I can help you.
Bill
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CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
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Address:
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550
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On Fri, Jul 17, 2020 at 10:11 AM Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi < helenmi57@...> wrote: I’m sending the plans Maud sent me. It’s not exactly like any of them. We’ve measured the difference between the aluminum and the fibreglass and it’s 3mm, but again there is nothing to hold an O-ring in place.
Many thanks, Helen and Kostas Meditation SM 29 in 1990
Hi Bill,
Thanks for the prompt reply! Unfortunately ours is different and doesn’t have the O rings , or any likely place to put one. I’m sending you photos to see what ours is like. On looking at the plans Amel sent us our set up is not exactly those either. We have bolts to fix it in place which are inserted from under the fibreglass part, shown in one of the photos. It might be possible to put an O-Ring around the aluminum part which inserts slightly into the fibreglass, only there is nothing there to hold it in place, any ideas will be very much appreciated!! Thanks again Helen and Kostas on Meditation SM 29 of 1990 <image0.jpeg> <image1.jpeg> On 17 Jul 2020, at 4:54 PM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
The drawing shows 2 each "Joint Toriques" which is an O-Ring. Follow this link.
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CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
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Address:
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550
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On Fri, Jul 17, 2020 at 8:31 AM Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi < helenmi57@...> wrote: We are having trouble with the seal between the transmission and the rest of the drive unit after having it serviced. The oil leaked out between the transmission box and the fibreglass part of the drive unit. The machine shop had used a paper gasket and some sort of red sealant. We are on anchor so are trying to do it ourselves.
We took it apart and resealed it , it leaked again after about 4 hrs motoring. We had used a high Temperature RTV gasket maker but no paper gasket because we thought that that was the way it was originally.
We have the plans from Amel, but it is not clear if there should be a paper gasket.
Should we try to find card to cut a gasket or try again with the RTV gasket maker? The fibreglass part is not in a very good condition.
Helen and Kostas on Meditation SM 29 of 1990
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Can anyone tell me which is the usual price for a SM ballooner? (tri-radial cut and parallel cut)
Leo
SM 69
Yin Yang in Fiji (I am in Austria)
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Re: 110 HP Yanmar raw water pump access
Mark,
The thumbscrews are for the cover plate for the water pump.
They are a lot easier to hold and install.
Eric
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
On July 19, 2020 at 12:42 AM Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:
Very cool! Thanks!
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia
www.creampuff.us
From: eric [mailto:kimberlite@...]
Sent: Saturday, July 18, 2020 6:20 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io; Mark Erdos
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] 110 HP Yanmar raw water pump access
Try using these using these thumb screws. They are so much easier then the ones supplied with the pump.
Fair Winds,
Eric
SM 376
https://www.mcmaster.com/screws/system-of-measurement~metric/thumb-screws/metric-stainless-steel-raised-knurled-head-thumb-screws/
On July 19, 2020 at 12:13 AM Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:
Hi Kent,
I do mine by brail.
Are you using threaded impellers? These make a huge difference:
The above tool is used for installation and removal.
I have a little tool kit just for this job. It includes a nut-driver to remove the cover and a wrench for the impeller tool and the impeller tool.
Being left handed is an advantage.
When installing the impeller, use lots of dishwashing detergent to coat the blades. This lube allows it to go in smoothly. No need to worry about the orientation of the blades. It’ll correct itself on the first revolution. And, when you start the engine and see soapy water outside of the boat you know it is working.
I leave a blue shop paper-towel under the raw water pump for the first few minutes the engine is running to check for any leaks.
Before I started using this tool I removed the components on that side of the engine. It is only few bolts and a couple of hoses. This made access to the pump very easy from the top. However, it made the job longer and cut into my beer time. Now I can change the impeller in about 15-20 minutes (if I don’t drop anything).
Hope this helps.
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia
www.creampuff.us
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of karkauai via groups.io
Sent: Saturday, July 18, 2020 2:58 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] 110 HP Yanmar raw water pump access
I know a few SMo have repowered with the Yanmar 4JH4HTE. The raw water pump is on the aft/starboard side next to the fuel tank. It's almost impossible for me to change the impeller without removing hoses and alternator, and even then it's hours of struggling and cussing before it's done.
I'm writing to ask others if they are having the same problem, and how they deal with it. I'm considering removing that impeller and putting in a remote raw water pump. Previously mechanics have discouraged me from doing that, but I'm at wits end.
Any advice, thoughts, etc are greatly appreciated.
Kent
SM243
Kristy
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