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Re: Galley refrigerator not cooling
Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown
Barry, Yes it is the same. I don’t want to cast aspersions but I can say that Stuart from Iguana Marine in Grenada managed to fix a fridge that was not fixable in Le Marin. Cheers, Paul S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Barry Connor via groups.io
Sent: 28 August 2020 14:40
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Galley refrigerator not cooling Hi Paul, We are still in Le Marin. Went to the shop upstairs above Caraibe Marine and bought a new fridge door opening latch. The big French man in the shop was nice and recommended the all stainless steel latch instead of the original latch which was part plastic. (The plastic part had broken).His price was the same as advertised online from UK supplier. Easy install by me. Is this possibly who you are referring to as we are thinking of asking him to check our fridge gas pressure? The gas pipe at the back is freezing up and dropping water on top of the water tank inspection port, then the water runs to under the stair. Mopping it up each morning. Think I have too much gas in the system. I have already Re-claged the pipe in insulation but still freezing up. Please let me know if you think this is the same man? We contacted Driftwood about our windscreens but can’t get to Granada, still stuck in Martinique. Thank’s for the contact. Sainte Anne anchorage Martinique
On Aug 28, 2020, at 04:00, Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...> wrote:
Yes, that’s exactly what happened to me in Le Marin and I fell for it ☹ Cheers, Paul S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada You need to be very careful when cleaning your fridge. If you get the ice off the plate with something that could puncture the gas lines within the plate, this is not being very careful. One of my fridges was not working, and actually found a honest refrigeration guy in Tahiti. He said, yeah I could change some parts, but I don't think that's the problem. The quick connect links (that only cost a few dollars) usually go bad, so let's change them and fill up back up and run it. It worked! Paid for an hour of time, little bit of gas, and two quick connect gaskets... Still working 2.5 years later.... All for less than $100 dollar bill.
Now, if you were in Le Marin. there's a 6' 2" French guy that will tell you you need a new refrigerator and installation which cost only $3500.
Cheers,
Ken
Aquarius SM2K #262
Still in Thailand
--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98
-- Cheers Paul Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98
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Re: Raw Water Manifold Failure - A54
Craig Briggs
Hi Michael,
Olivier Beaute had a fun quiz on this DB a while ago and asked what the main PVC pipe was on the boat - it was the cockpit drains! They are not GRP fiberglass covered except where they are tabbed into the hull. I've drilled through mine up high for A/C and Refrigeration cooling water discharges when I added those systems to my SN - they are just PVC.
As to the PVC pipe schedule, I think plain old white hardware store Schedule 40 rated at 220 psi should be fine - there is simply no positive pressure at all in the manifold (maybe a slight negative pressure, actually, as pumps suck water). That appears to be what Tom Cunliffe has used in the article I posted a couple of days ago. But, hey, overkill never hurt, either.
If I'm not mistaken, all Amels have factory installed fire suppression systems in the engine rooms.
Cheers, Craig - SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
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Re: Raw Water Manifold Failure - A54
We used these incredibly versatile fittings to fabricate the manifold.
Porter
On Aug 28, 2020, at 4:19 PM, michael winand via groups.io <mfw642000@...> wrote:
Hi Craig, I was pointing out that the photo of the new Amel manifold is made of poly pipe fitting that are heat welded, www.advancedpiping.com.au this makes a very strong joint. If you are going to use PVC pipe I would be sure to use shedual pressure pipe and fittings, with the glue that is appropriate for pressure fittings, also need to clean the fittings and pipe with a MEk cleaner,,. Swimming pool pumping and filter style fittings would work. Stay clear of drainage fittings and pipe. Regarding a engine room fire, we should have a working fire suppression system, like the fire boy. I was under the impression that the cockpit drains are fibreglass covered. I know that the main engine and genset exhausts are a heavy schedule pvc fitting at the waterline exit. Should not have any heat in this part of the exhaust. Regards Michael winand Nebo sm251 On Sat, 29 Aug. 2020 at 10:18 am, Craig Briggs via groups.io <sangaris@...> wrote: Hi Michael,
I'm not sure I understand the difference between using PVC in the engine room for a drain, as Amel does for the large diameter cockpit drains which have no water in them above the water line and no seacocks, and using it for a Manifold, which would always have water inside and thus, ostensibly, be more resistant to being compromised by fire, and in addition has a seacock. What am I missing?
Best regards, Craig -- SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
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Re: Raw Water Manifold Failure - A54
michael winand
Hi Craig, I was pointing out that the photo of the new Amel manifold is made of poly pipe fitting that are heat welded, www.advancedpiping.com.au this makes a very strong joint. If you are going to use PVC pipe I would be sure to use shedual pressure pipe and fittings, with the glue that is appropriate for pressure fittings, also need to clean the fittings and pipe with a MEk cleaner,,. Swimming pool pumping and filter style fittings would work. Stay clear of drainage fittings and pipe. Regarding a engine room fire, we should have a working fire suppression system, like the fire boy. I was under the impression that the cockpit drains are fibreglass covered. I know that the main engine and genset exhausts are a heavy schedule pvc fitting at the waterline exit. Should not have any heat in this part of the exhaust. Regards Michael winand Nebo sm251
On Sat, 29 Aug. 2020 at 10:18 am, Craig Briggs via groups.io <sangaris@...> wrote: Hi Michael,
I'm not sure I understand the difference between using PVC in the engine room for a drain, as Amel does for the large diameter cockpit drains which have no water in them above the water line and no seacocks, and using it for a Manifold, which would always have water inside and thus, ostensibly, be more resistant to being compromised by fire, and in addition has a seacock. What am I missing?
Best regards, Craig -- SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
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Re: Raw Water Manifold Failure - A54
Craig Briggs
Hi Michael,
I'm not sure I understand the difference between using PVC in the engine room for a drain, as Amel does for the large diameter cockpit drains which have no water in them above the water line and no seacocks, and using it for a Manifold, which would always have water inside and thus, ostensibly, be more resistant to being compromised by fire, and in addition has a seacock. What am I missing?
Best regards, Craig -- SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
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Re: Electric shock from the windlass
Hi Craig,
Thanks for your prompt reply. I will try that as soon as I am back on board.
For testing, I have little hope with the crew. They had already mutinied when I asked for volunteers to experiment the extent of the problem and I had to do it myself
Bests
Paolo Cuneo
SM 454 Whisper
Inviato da iPad
Inviato da iPad
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Re: Raw Water Manifold Failure - A54
michael winand
I would like to point out that the pipe is not pvc. These are a polymer that is heat welded. I would not recommend pvc in the engine room. It's ok for a drain. Regards Michael Nebo sm251
On Sat, 29 Aug 2020 at 12:37 am, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote: Porter,
This is a photo of the Amel 50 saltwater manifold. If I were you, I would do something like this in PVC: |
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CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
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Address:
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550
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Paul. We concerns of a plastic manifold... Or a plastic sea chest with a fire! Wow. There are critical concerns with every boat for sure. Or a crack in the Seachest lid! We have replacements. The boat did not come with one. After sailing for a while and letting the mind wander I think of all kinds of scenarios. The sea chest lid threads get screwed up.... Extra o rings? We got some but... One can go on and on. You’re line of questioning is a good one. What would Amel say?
Lets hope we never have an ER fire!
Porter Porter McRoberts S/V IBIS WhatsApp:+1 754 265 2206On Aug 27, 2020, at 1:27 PM, Teun BAAS <teun@...> wrote:
Last paragraph Porter’s Email: attached is the part.
April/May 2018 it broke off completely on AMELIT; this is the replacement part I got from AMEL.
I noticed the new unit “sweating” & oxidizing rather quickly; it almost looked like 2 different metals were used. In July/August 2019, in VANUATU, checking & prepping
the boat for the trip to the SOLOMONS, my local mechanic Matthieu & I decided to remove this unit completely and replace with a plastic (PVC???) self built unit which has been doing great with no “sweating” at all.
When I asked Thierry (AMEL SAV) this was his reply:
QUOTE
To answer your question this manifold is custom made by Amel . The welding between brass fitting and copper pipe is carefully done and there is no risk of leakage.
UNQUOTE
I have also been planning to redo everything along the A50/60 concept with individual shut off valves for each downstream line.
Best Regards Teun
SV AMELIT A54 #128
I am stuck & bored
☹ and have been cruising on my motorcycle (March/April) all over BAJA CALIFORNIA
😊
😊 and since June in USA via magnificient State & National Parks on my way to ANNAPOLIS boatshow
😊
AMELIT is in storage on the hard in COOMERA (near BRISBANE) QLD AUSTRALIA and now watched by fellow AMEL owners Sue & Brian MITCHELL (SV LOLA)
August 27, 2020
16:20:07
USA cell: +1 832 477 8842
AUSTRALIA cell: +61 5951 8909
You can follow AMELIT via this link:
https://forecast.predictwind.com/tracking/display/AMELIT
This is indeed a serious issue.
We had the initial bronze manifold on IBIS. Looked horrible and so when we ordered our arch from Turkey had a stainless replacement manifold constructed. About 2 years ago I changed the bronze one, with significant corrosion to the stainless
replacement. One year after replacement upon inspection in NZ I found a small pit and a leak. It was in NZ that I had the resources to build a new manifold out of plastic. I had reservations about the material (plastic vs metal) but recall from an A55 that
I believe the stock manifold is plastic on the A55. Encouraged by the chandlery in Opua I built a plastic one. It took a couple of days, a lot of measuring and 5200. I put in isolation valves. I think it is far better than the original. I’d encourage any others
who have the resources of a nearby good plumbing chandlery to think about it. One of the very cool parts of the A55 is the ability to isolate and turn of seawater to specific downstream applications. (Don’t have to turn off the refrigerator to work on the
AC pump)
I think we’re a lot safer now. I repaired the stainless manifold and keep as a spare, but would be lothe to return to it.
Keep in mind there is another smaller manifold (of which we also keep a spare) starbord of the seachest that distributes to the main engine, and then to the distribution manifold via a (formerly iffy) looking hose. That manifold could also
easily fail. Amel has replacements.
On Aug 27, 2020, at 3:38 AM, Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...> wrote:
Jamie,
I built a new one from off-the-shelf bronze fittings and a short piece of reinforced hose in the middle. Two years on and no problems, and it will be much easier to repair next time as it can be taken apart in
the middle before pulling the parts out which is much easier than getting the original out.
I would also be interested if anyone else has adopted this solution and how long it has lasted.
Cheers,
Paul
S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada
I want to report a serious issue regarding the raw-water manifold that feeds the refrigerator, anchor wash, AC, and watermaker pumps on my A54. As I was servicing the sea chest strainer and cleaning out the clogged hoses, the nipple connection
feeding the refrigerator pump broke off from the manifold. It actually appears to have been cracked already and was essentially sucking in some air with the cooling water. You can tell that when you hear a slight gurgling sound at the discharge thru-hull -
initially I thought it was a pump problem related to insufficient cooling water through the main system strainer. Luckily I was on board at the time - if not, seawater may have poured into the engine room relying on only the automatic bilge pump to keep the
water out. If the water ingress had been more than the bilge pump could discharge, the boat might have sunk (a very scary thought!).
I removed the manifold - no easy task, as it is buried behind the hoses, wires, and the cockpit scupper. The manifold appears to be made of bronze, but there was some external corrosion evident at the joint between the refrigerator connection and the main manifold
tubing. It is likely that the corrosion is far worse inside the manifold, and that is hard to see when there is a lot of muck building up in the tubing. Very probably, the other nipples have similar corrosion issues inside.
So, I am now in the process of trying to replace the seawater manifold. I have 2 options: the first is to replace in kind, either custom built in a local fab shop or ordered through Amel; the second is to build one out of bronze fittings, pipe, and hose sections.
I am not sure if any local shops can work with bronze, but I am investigating that possibility first. I am certain that Amel had these things built specifically for the A54 and maybe the SM or even the A55 - I am not sure if it is common to all models, but
I question whether Amel could still source a replacement. The advantage to an in-kind replacement is that it would be a drop-in and also be smaller and lighter. The advantage to a manifold built from fittings is that I can install shut-off valves for each
feed circuit, allowing me to isolate if there is a problem with one of the systems and retain the other systems in operation while I service the failed system. I like that concept the best, as many times I have to work on one of the feeders, while having to
shut down everything to do it via the main in-line valve. By the way, that valve also looks suspect to me and I will be replacing it.
So, I am passing on my experience to the group as a reminder to check this manifold on a periodic basis. It is hard to see internal corrosion, but it is clear that even bronze will eventually fail. Phantom is now 13 years old, so maybe I was due for replacement.
Has anyone else had this failure, and if so, what was your best solution to replace? Has anyone attempted to source from Amel?
Thanks,
Jamie Wendell
Phantom, A54 #44
--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98
<IMG-20190520-WA0006.jpg>
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Craig Briggs
Hi Tom,
That's a boarding step - the mobius twist keeps it open for your foot. Works great in the dinghy or on the side of the boat - just tie it in place with some short stuff.
Cheers, Craig -- SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
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Despite many attaching many warning labels, etc, I continued to bump my head for many years on the way down below. A friend came up with this idea. What really makes it work is that it hangs down several inches, but doesn't hurt if you hit it.
--
Tom Peacock
SM 240 Aletes
Chesapeake Bay
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While going through the deep part of our cockpit locker, we found this item, left over from the previous owner. We are at a loss as to it's function. Anyone have an idea?
Thanks.
--
Tom Peacock
SM 240 Aletes
Chesapeake Bay
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Re: Electric shock from the windlass
Craig Briggs
Hi Paolo,
I see Bill Rouse has assumed you are getting a 220v AC shock whereas I assumed it to be 24v DC. Are you running the generator (or connected to shore power) when you get this shock.
If you are running the generator and you've got 220v AC in the rigging and rails, then you might not want your crew to do the testing, but, instead, get an electrician post haste. If you are not running the generator, go back to my advice.
Added thought: If you are running the generator when this happens, try turning it off (and unplugging from shore if you are plugged in) and see if you still get the shock (a 24v shock only tickles - won't kill like 220v). That would eliminate it being a 220v failure. Odds are this is indeed a 24v fault with an easy fix of cleaning up the connectors.
Let us know.
Craig - SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
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Re: Electric shock from the windlass
The next step is to get an electrician on the boat ASAP. Your problem is likely that some 220 volt AC device is wired wrong and is sending 220 volts through the earth/bonding system (yellow/green wire). This can be serious. If this is happening when disconnected from shore power and not running the generator, somewhere in the inverter installation is the problem.
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CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
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Address:
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550
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On Fri, Aug 28, 2020 at 12:51 PM PAOLO CUNEO < pc43ge@...> wrote:
Hi all,
For some time now, when I operate the windlass, either from the control in the cockpit or using the switch on the windlass, I have received a significant electric shock if I touch either the shrouds or the guard rail (wet deck, bare feet). I've already called an electrician to no avail (actually for a very quick and superficial check) and I think, at this point, I need the help of the Amel community.
Keeping in mind that I am practically illiterate in terms of electrical systems, is there anyone who can tell me, step by step, which checks I need to do and in what logical order?
Thank you all
Paolo Cuneo
SM 454 Whisper
Back to Genoa after a conservative (due to COVID) summer cruise
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Re: Electric shock from the windlass
Craig Briggs
Hi Paolo,
You've most likely got a short between the positive wire and the ground wire inside the windlass housing. Take off the rear windlass cover (where the manual button switches are) by unscrewing the two bolts holding it on. Then inspect the wires and you will probably find some corrosion on the connectors allowing the short. Remove all the wires from the connector(s), clean everything up and reassemble.
Test by having your crew go barefoot and wet and grab the shrouds so you don't get hurt.
Cheers,
Craig - SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
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toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
-----Original Message-----
From: James Cromie via groups.io <jamescromie@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Fri, Aug 28, 2020 12:34 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] New rub rail inserts
Hi Pat - thank you for to your efforts to find the rub rail insert. I'd like to contact you direct to discuss ordering it - would you please repost your contact, as it didn't seem to be complete in your previous email.
Best,
James
SV Soteria
SM2K. 347
Baranof,
AK
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Electric shock from the windlass
Hi all,
For some time now, when I operate the windlass, either from the control in the cockpit or using the switch on the windlass, I have received a significant electric shock if I touch either the shrouds or the guard rail (wet deck, bare feet). I've already called an electrician to no avail (actually for a very quick and superficial check) and I think, at this point, I need the help of the Amel community.
Keeping in mind that I am practically illiterate in terms of electrical systems, is there anyone who can tell me, step by step, which checks I need to do and in what logical order?
Thank you all
Paolo Cuneo
SM 454 Whisper
Back to Genoa after a conservative (due to COVID) summer cruise
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Craig Briggs
Hi James,
You can email Pat at sailw32 at aol dot com.
He and I are coordinating on this so you could also write me at sangaris at aol dot com or just call me on 561.932.9349
Glad to answer any questions.
Craig
--
SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
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Hi Pat - thank you for to your efforts to find the rub rail insert. I'd like to contact you direct to discuss ordering it - would you please repost your contact, as it didn't seem to be complete in your previous email.
Best, James SV Soteria SM2K. 347 Baranof, AK
On Aug 28, 2020 6:27 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote: Joel will not exaggerate!
Well, Joel does get excited, in a good way, about things dear to him. And, if anyone knows Joel, Amels are very dear to him, and rightfully so!
Bill |
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CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
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Address:
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550
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Joel would never say something so untrue. A new insert might make the boat sell quicker and for a bit more money, but not 15%. Craig, I have told you a billion times not to exaggerate... JOEL F. POTTER CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST LLC THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY Office 954-462-5869 Just to add minor notes to Pat McAneny's post, this new insert perfectly matches my old SN insert (identical to the SM insert) and absolutely looks far better in off-white. Being made of EPDM it will stand up to UV and will not chalk up like the originals. They're made by Techno Rubber Industries in Miami and I visited their plant for an "eyes on" - they're a family business that's the "real deal". You can Google them for a look-see.
Installation is easily accomplished with a spray bottle of water and dish detergent plus a blunt "pusher". I used a hand held 1/4" socket driver (without a socket) as pusher. Here's a pic - the tool is lying on the deck, but anything similar will work - it does take some force to work the inside edge of the insert down against the outside of the cap rail.
It will take you 5 minutes to remove the old insert - just pry up one end and pull - and about an hour per side to install the new. Amel carved away the bottom section of the originals in the areas of the chainplates and you'll need to copy that on this new one.
Before installing the new insert, I'd recommend taking the time to wash out the empty channel as it really accumulates dirt and then clean and wax the hull and rub rail, patching any gelcoat nicks you may have.
I think it will be a super improvement and Joel says to add 15% to your asking price when you sell. (Well, maybe not an exact quote, but, hey!)
Cheers, Craig - SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
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Re: PLEASE CONFIRM FINAL Onan Generator exhaust temperature switch - great price.
Hi David,
please send me your mailing info.
Thank You,
Eric
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
On August 28, 2020 at 11:13 AM Alan Grayson <bazgrayson@...> wrote:
Hi Eric, I'll take 1 please
Alan Grayson
SM 406 Ora Pai
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of eric freedman <kimberlite@...>
Sent: Thursday, 27 August 2020 10:36 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] PLEASE CONFIRM FINAL Onan Generator exhaust temperature switch - great price.
Hi,
I have requests for the exhaust sensors from the following people :
Mark Pitt 1 piece
Mohammad Shirloo 3 pieces
Jim Anderson 1 piece I need your mailing address
Bob Rossi 1 piece I need your mailing address
Vladimir Sonsev 1 piece
If there is anyone else who wishes this switch please let me know—I will order on Tuesday.
Fair Winds
Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376
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Re: PLEASE CONFIRM FINAL Onan Generator exhaust temperature switch - great price.
Hi Eric, I'll take 1 please
Alan Grayson
SM 406 Ora Pai
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of eric freedman <kimberlite@...>
Sent: Thursday, 27 August 2020 10:36 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] PLEASE CONFIRM FINAL Onan Generator exhaust temperature switch - great price.
Hi,
I have requests for the exhaust sensors from the following people :
Mark Pitt 1 piece
Mohammad Shirloo 3 pieces
Jim Anderson 1 piece I need your mailing address
Bob Rossi 1 piece I need your mailing address
Vladimir Sonsev 1 piece
If there is anyone else who wishes this switch please let me know—I will order on Tuesday.
Fair Winds
Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376
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Re: Raw Water Manifold Failure - A54
Porter,
This is a photo of the Amel 50 saltwater manifold. If I were you, I would do something like this in PVC:
|
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CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
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Address:
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550
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Paul. We concerns of a plastic manifold... Or a plastic sea chest with a fire! Wow. There are critical concerns with every boat for sure. Or a crack in the Seachest lid! We have replacements. The boat did not come with one. After sailing for a while and letting the mind wander I think of all kinds of scenarios. The sea chest lid threads get screwed up.... Extra o rings? We got some but... One can go on and on. You’re line of questioning is a good one. What would Amel say?
Lets hope we never have an ER fire!
Porter Porter McRoberts S/V IBIS WhatsApp:+1 754 265 2206On Aug 27, 2020, at 1:27 PM, Teun BAAS <teun@...> wrote:
Last paragraph Porter’s Email: attached is the part.
April/May 2018 it broke off completely on AMELIT; this is the replacement part I got from AMEL.
I noticed the new unit “sweating” & oxidizing rather quickly; it almost looked like 2 different metals were used. In July/August 2019, in VANUATU, checking & prepping
the boat for the trip to the SOLOMONS, my local mechanic Matthieu & I decided to remove this unit completely and replace with a plastic (PVC???) self built unit which has been doing great with no “sweating” at all.
When I asked Thierry (AMEL SAV) this was his reply:
QUOTE
To answer your question this manifold is custom made by Amel . The welding between brass fitting and copper pipe is carefully done and there is no risk of leakage.
UNQUOTE
I have also been planning to redo everything along the A50/60 concept with individual shut off valves for each downstream line.
Best Regards Teun
SV AMELIT A54 #128
I am stuck & bored
☹ and have been cruising on my motorcycle (March/April) all over BAJA CALIFORNIA
😊
😊 and since June in USA via magnificient State & National Parks on my way to ANNAPOLIS boatshow
😊
AMELIT is in storage on the hard in COOMERA (near BRISBANE) QLD AUSTRALIA and now watched by fellow AMEL owners Sue & Brian MITCHELL (SV LOLA)
August 27, 2020
16:20:07
USA cell: +1 832 477 8842
AUSTRALIA cell: +61 5951 8909
You can follow AMELIT via this link:
https://forecast.predictwind.com/tracking/display/AMELIT
This is indeed a serious issue.
We had the initial bronze manifold on IBIS. Looked horrible and so when we ordered our arch from Turkey had a stainless replacement manifold constructed. About 2 years ago I changed the bronze one, with significant corrosion to the stainless
replacement. One year after replacement upon inspection in NZ I found a small pit and a leak. It was in NZ that I had the resources to build a new manifold out of plastic. I had reservations about the material (plastic vs metal) but recall from an A55 that
I believe the stock manifold is plastic on the A55. Encouraged by the chandlery in Opua I built a plastic one. It took a couple of days, a lot of measuring and 5200. I put in isolation valves. I think it is far better than the original. I’d encourage any others
who have the resources of a nearby good plumbing chandlery to think about it. One of the very cool parts of the A55 is the ability to isolate and turn of seawater to specific downstream applications. (Don’t have to turn off the refrigerator to work on the
AC pump)
I think we’re a lot safer now. I repaired the stainless manifold and keep as a spare, but would be lothe to return to it.
Keep in mind there is another smaller manifold (of which we also keep a spare) starbord of the seachest that distributes to the main engine, and then to the distribution manifold via a (formerly iffy) looking hose. That manifold could also
easily fail. Amel has replacements.
On Aug 27, 2020, at 3:38 AM, Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...> wrote:
Jamie,
I built a new one from off-the-shelf bronze fittings and a short piece of reinforced hose in the middle. Two years on and no problems, and it will be much easier to repair next time as it can be taken apart in
the middle before pulling the parts out which is much easier than getting the original out.
I would also be interested if anyone else has adopted this solution and how long it has lasted.
Cheers,
Paul
S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada
I want to report a serious issue regarding the raw-water manifold that feeds the refrigerator, anchor wash, AC, and watermaker pumps on my A54. As I was servicing the sea chest strainer and cleaning out the clogged hoses, the nipple connection
feeding the refrigerator pump broke off from the manifold. It actually appears to have been cracked already and was essentially sucking in some air with the cooling water. You can tell that when you hear a slight gurgling sound at the discharge thru-hull -
initially I thought it was a pump problem related to insufficient cooling water through the main system strainer. Luckily I was on board at the time - if not, seawater may have poured into the engine room relying on only the automatic bilge pump to keep the
water out. If the water ingress had been more than the bilge pump could discharge, the boat might have sunk (a very scary thought!).
I removed the manifold - no easy task, as it is buried behind the hoses, wires, and the cockpit scupper. The manifold appears to be made of bronze, but there was some external corrosion evident at the joint between the refrigerator connection and the main manifold
tubing. It is likely that the corrosion is far worse inside the manifold, and that is hard to see when there is a lot of muck building up in the tubing. Very probably, the other nipples have similar corrosion issues inside.
So, I am now in the process of trying to replace the seawater manifold. I have 2 options: the first is to replace in kind, either custom built in a local fab shop or ordered through Amel; the second is to build one out of bronze fittings, pipe, and hose sections.
I am not sure if any local shops can work with bronze, but I am investigating that possibility first. I am certain that Amel had these things built specifically for the A54 and maybe the SM or even the A55 - I am not sure if it is common to all models, but
I question whether Amel could still source a replacement. The advantage to an in-kind replacement is that it would be a drop-in and also be smaller and lighter. The advantage to a manifold built from fittings is that I can install shut-off valves for each
feed circuit, allowing me to isolate if there is a problem with one of the systems and retain the other systems in operation while I service the failed system. I like that concept the best, as many times I have to work on one of the feeders, while having to
shut down everything to do it via the main in-line valve. By the way, that valve also looks suspect to me and I will be replacing it.
So, I am passing on my experience to the group as a reminder to check this manifold on a periodic basis. It is hard to see internal corrosion, but it is clear that even bronze will eventually fail. Phantom is now 13 years old, so maybe I was due for replacement.
Has anyone else had this failure, and if so, what was your best solution to replace? Has anyone attempted to source from Amel?
Thanks,
Jamie Wendell
Phantom, A54 #44
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Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98
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