Date   

Re: Climma Air Conditioning from shore power

 

Peter,

You definitely have a ground fault in some device on your boat. A ground fault will trip a pedestal breaker in a marina much faster than a ground fault will trip the main breaker on your 220-volt panel because the sensitivity for ground faults in a marina is very high, especially in the US where marinas do not want to be sued for injury.

I suggest you get an electrician to isolate which device is causing a ground fault.
The most common is the water heater which develops pinholes in the heating element, and the second most common is the Climma AC/Heat units. There are many different causes of ground faults in the Climma units with the most expensive being a ground fault inside the compressor.

Write me at brouse@... or call at the number below. I am in the US Central time zone. WhatsAp or Signal work for me. 
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Tue, Feb 2, 2021 at 4:44 PM Peter de Groot <pandmdegroot@...> wrote:


Greetings,
I’m hoping someone has run into this before, and can shed some light.  I have the feeling the answer is staring me right in the face and I just can’t see it.

For 3 years of owning la Querida SM#207 I’ve always run the heaters and Air Conditioning from generator power.  The marina where I was berthed only offered a 30A 120VAC circuit.  Now that we’re in Mexico, we’ve had occasion to run the water heater and Air Conditioning from shore power.  It has not gone well.  Upon plugging into shore power the breaker on the side of the 220VAC load center in the galley immediately tripped.  Mind you this is North American 220(230) VAC with two hot legs and no neutral.  Together with an electrician we found the offending circuit and disconnected the blue (normally neutral) wire and all circuits worked except the Climma air conditioning.  Restoring that connection A to B in the diagram above, the Air conditioning works being powered from the generator.  However the main breaker trips immediately when connected to shore power.  Power feed “1” comes off the main power distribution, no circuit separate circuit breaker.  Power feed “2” comes off the “Climma” individual breaker on the Amel Panel.

Measuring voltage from “B” to a brown junction point reads 125VAC.  From “B” to a blue wire junction point (normally neutral) also reads about 125 VAC.  “B” to ground is open.

The electrician did his work three ports ago (and we were sailing the next day) when our priority was to get the hot water heater to work without bothering the neighbors with generator noise and exhaust.  Now our priority is getting the air conditioning working from shore power.  We’re much further south and the cabin is a sauna most evenings.  The previous owner was on board for a week in Zihuatenejo and reiterated he was able to run all circuits (including the air conditioning) from shore power.  He also did his cruising in Mexico with 2 hot leg 230VAC power.

Any tips or similar past experience/solutions would be welcome.

Peter de Groot
la Querida, SM#207
now in Barra de Navidad
(just back from Ixtapa where the mosquitoes forced us to close the hatches making the problem worse)


Re: Climma Air Conditioning from shore power

Matt Salatino
 

One thing to keep in mind, US power is 120 volts, 60 hz, not 110.
Easy mistake to make.
Even our A50 with the US power option is labeled 110 volts.

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Feb 2, 2021, at 6:48 PM, Thomas Peacock <peacock8491@...> wrote:

Being in the US, we have also had to occasionally run on a shore pedestal that puts out 30 amps at 110 volts. The transformer in the engine room then converts that to 220 volts, which, I have always assumed, yields only about 15 amps. Once that feeds into the 220 panel, I have, again, always assumed that the panel cannot tell what the original voltage was, it just sees 220 in a European wiring configuration. Obviously, the Hertz will be 60, whereas with the generator it is 50. 
I’m not sure what wire your electrician disconnected, but I would be VERY reluctant to mess with the original Amel wiring. 
That said, you cannot run both the AC units and the water heater on US (or Mexican) 30 amp 110 volts. There just isn’t enough juice. Check the watts on all your devices. 30 amps at 110 volts should only be able to give you about 3,300 watts.
By the breaker, do you mean the 32 amp breaker on the 220 volt box?
As always, I am not an electrician. Past results do not predict future returns. I’m sure others may add more expertise.

Tom Peacock
SM 240 Aletes
Chesapeake Bay 

On Feb 2, 2021, at 5:44 PM, Peter de Groot <pandmdegroot@...> wrote:


<B87D5313-A35F-4F7C-9F56-612E08B1201E.jpeg>


Greetings,
I’m hoping someone has run into this before, and can shed some light.  I have the feeling the answer is staring me right in the face and I just can’t see it.

For 3 years of owning la Querida SM#207 I’ve always run the heaters and Air Conditioning from generator power.  The marina where I was berthed only offered a 30A 120VAC circuit.  Now that we’re in Mexico, we’ve had occasion to run the water heater and Air Conditioning from shore power.  It has not gone well.  Upon plugging into shore power the breaker on the side of the 220VAC load center in the galley immediately tripped.  Mind you this is North American 220(230) VAC with two hot legs and no neutral.  Together with an electrician we found the offending circuit and disconnected the blue (normally neutral) wire and all circuits worked except the Climma air conditioning.  Restoring that connection A to B in the diagram above, the Air conditioning works being powered from the generator.  However the main breaker trips immediately when connected to shore power.  Power feed “1” comes off the main power distribution, no circuit separate circuit breaker.  Power feed “2” comes off the “Climma” individual breaker on the Amel Panel.

Measuring voltage from “B” to a brown junction point reads 125VAC.  From “B” to a blue wire junction point (normally neutral) also reads about 125 VAC.  “B” to ground is open.

The electrician did his work three ports ago (and we were sailing the next day) when our priority was to get the hot water heater to work without bothering the neighbors with generator noise and exhaust.  Now our priority is getting the air conditioning working from shore power.  We’re much further south and the cabin is a sauna most evenings.  The previous owner was on board for a week in Zihuatenejo and reiterated he was able to run all circuits (including the air conditioning) from shore power.  He also did his cruising in Mexico with 2 hot leg 230VAC power.

Any tips or similar past experience/solutions would be welcome.

Peter de Groot
la Querida, SM#207
now in Barra de Navidad
(just back from Ixtapa where the mosquitoes forced us to close the hatches making the problem worse)

--
Tom Peacock
SM 240 Aletes
Chesapeake Bay


Re: Climma Air Conditioning from shore power

Thomas Peacock
 

Being in the US, we have also had to occasionally run on a shore pedestal that puts out 30 amps at 110 volts. The transformer in the engine room then converts that to 220 volts, which, I have always assumed, yields only about 15 amps. Once that feeds into the 220 panel, I have, again, always assumed that the panel cannot tell what the original voltage was, it just sees 220 in a European wiring configuration. Obviously, the Hertz will be 60, whereas with the generator it is 50. 
I’m not sure what wire your electrician disconnected, but I would be VERY reluctant to mess with the original Amel wiring. 
That said, you cannot run both the AC units and the water heater on US (or Mexican) 30 amp 110 volts. There just isn’t enough juice. Check the watts on all your devices. 30 amps at 110 volts should only be able to give you about 3,300 watts.
By the breaker, do you mean the 32 amp breaker on the 220 volt box?
As always, I am not an electrician. Past results do not predict future returns. I’m sure others may add more expertise.

Tom Peacock
SM 240 Aletes
Chesapeake Bay 

On Feb 2, 2021, at 5:44 PM, Peter de Groot <pandmdegroot@...> wrote:


<B87D5313-A35F-4F7C-9F56-612E08B1201E.jpeg>


Greetings,
I’m hoping someone has run into this before, and can shed some light.  I have the feeling the answer is staring me right in the face and I just can’t see it.

For 3 years of owning la Querida SM#207 I’ve always run the heaters and Air Conditioning from generator power.  The marina where I was berthed only offered a 30A 120VAC circuit.  Now that we’re in Mexico, we’ve had occasion to run the water heater and Air Conditioning from shore power.  It has not gone well.  Upon plugging into shore power the breaker on the side of the 220VAC load center in the galley immediately tripped.  Mind you this is North American 220(230) VAC with two hot legs and no neutral.  Together with an electrician we found the offending circuit and disconnected the blue (normally neutral) wire and all circuits worked except the Climma air conditioning.  Restoring that connection A to B in the diagram above, the Air conditioning works being powered from the generator.  However the main breaker trips immediately when connected to shore power.  Power feed “1” comes off the main power distribution, no circuit separate circuit breaker.  Power feed “2” comes off the “Climma” individual breaker on the Amel Panel.

Measuring voltage from “B” to a brown junction point reads 125VAC.  From “B” to a blue wire junction point (normally neutral) also reads about 125 VAC.  “B” to ground is open.

The electrician did his work three ports ago (and we were sailing the next day) when our priority was to get the hot water heater to work without bothering the neighbors with generator noise and exhaust.  Now our priority is getting the air conditioning working from shore power.  We’re much further south and the cabin is a sauna most evenings.  The previous owner was on board for a week in Zihuatenejo and reiterated he was able to run all circuits (including the air conditioning) from shore power.  He also did his cruising in Mexico with 2 hot leg 230VAC power.

Any tips or similar past experience/solutions would be welcome.

Peter de Groot
la Querida, SM#207
now in Barra de Navidad
(just back from Ixtapa where the mosquitoes forced us to close the hatches making the problem worse)

--
Tom Peacock
SM 240 Aletes
Chesapeake Bay


Climma Air Conditioning from shore power

Peter de Groot
 



Greetings,
I’m hoping someone has run into this before, and can shed some light.  I have the feeling the answer is staring me right in the face and I just can’t see it.

For 3 years of owning la Querida SM#207 I’ve always run the heaters and Air Conditioning from generator power.  The marina where I was berthed only offered a 30A 120VAC circuit.  Now that we’re in Mexico, we’ve had occasion to run the water heater and Air Conditioning from shore power.  It has not gone well.  Upon plugging into shore power the breaker on the side of the 220VAC load center in the galley immediately tripped.  Mind you this is North American 220(230) VAC with two hot legs and no neutral.  Together with an electrician we found the offending circuit and disconnected the blue (normally neutral) wire and all circuits worked except the Climma air conditioning.  Restoring that connection A to B in the diagram above, the Air conditioning works being powered from the generator.  However the main breaker trips immediately when connected to shore power.  Power feed “1” comes off the main power distribution, no circuit separate circuit breaker.  Power feed “2” comes off the “Climma” individual breaker on the Amel Panel.

Measuring voltage from “B” to a brown junction point reads 125VAC.  From “B” to a blue wire junction point (normally neutral) also reads about 125 VAC.  “B” to ground is open.

The electrician did his work three ports ago (and we were sailing the next day) when our priority was to get the hot water heater to work without bothering the neighbors with generator noise and exhaust.  Now our priority is getting the air conditioning working from shore power.  We’re much further south and the cabin is a sauna most evenings.  The previous owner was on board for a week in Zihuatenejo and reiterated he was able to run all circuits (including the air conditioning) from shore power.  He also did his cruising in Mexico with 2 hot leg 230VAC power.

Any tips or similar past experience/solutions would be welcome.

Peter de Groot
la Querida, SM#207
now in Barra de Navidad
(just back from Ixtapa where the mosquitoes forced us to close the hatches making the problem worse)


Re: How much Solar?

Wolfgang Weber <webercardio@...>
 

Hello to the group,
We have 600Ah/24V wetcell batteries and no solar which is good for sailing the Med-sea.
The problem with this configuration is you start the onan and charger with 100-80 A and charging will decrease to 30-40 A after 1/2-1 .
So first step for me is to switch to 600Ah Lithium batteries before adding any solarcells.
Stay healthy!
Wolfgang Weber SY Elise Amel 54#162






Re: Solid cockpit roof on Super Maramu

michael winand
 

Thanks for sharing.  Could you please advise on the approximate hours to construct your own?
Thanks, Michael, Nebo sm251 


On Wed, 3 Feb 2021 at 2:53 am, Ann-Sofie
<ann-sofie@...> wrote:
As per request we have made a short film about our cockpit roof on our SuperMaramu S/Y Lady Annila.
Please follow this URL https://www.dropbox.com/sh/i9dzki9zbz2s4mv/AAA1Nv70ovxLvpMuDCQHAUG1a?dl=0

Regards
Annsofie & Jonas
S/Y Lady Annila, SM 232, 1998
Present in Algarve, Portugal


Re: How much Solar?

Justin Maguire
 

Congratulations on Makemo!

 

I had no idea that the generator run time was that much – wow! Solar and Lithium would transform your world for sure!

 

 

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

 

From: Chantal & Alain sv Makemo
Sent: Tuesday, February 2, 2021 12:50 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] How much Solar?

 

Hello Billy,
we acquired 4 months ago Makemo, Amel 55 nº1 and we are experiencing all the fixtures.
today with one fridge and one freezer, we are consuming about 200Ah/day at the mooring and much more while sailing with everything on. We only have 2x 185w solar panels on our davitts producing in the West Indies between 1.2 and 1.5kwh in January (8am till 5pm more or less).
Therefore we are using the genset everyday min 2.5 h up to 4h.
We are looking for increasing our solar capacity replacing ours panels with 2x 370 or 440w new panels located at the  same place.
it should deliver 2x mini representing 2-3 of our consumption at the mooring.
our batteries are AGM 660Ah (24v).
we would also like to put flexi panels in the hard top but we have not yet identified a good way to put the cables.
Happy to exchange your project when defined.
regards

 


Re: How much Solar?

Chantal & Alain sv Makemo
 

Hello Billy,
we acquired 4 months ago Makemo, Amel 55 nº1 and we are experiencing all the fixtures.
today with one fridge and one freezer, we are consuming about 200Ah/day at the mooring and much more while sailing with everything on. We only have 2x 185w solar panels on our davitts producing in the West Indies between 1.2 and 1.5kwh in January (8am till 5pm more or less).
Therefore we are using the genset everyday min 2.5 h up to 4h.
We are looking for increasing our solar capacity replacing ours panels with 2x 370 or 440w new panels located at the  same place.
it should deliver 2x mini representing 2-3 of our consumption at the mooring.
our batteries are AGM 660Ah (24v).
we would also like to put flexi panels in the hard top but we have not yet identified a good way to put the cables.
Happy to exchange your project when defined.
regards


Solid cockpit roof on Super Maramu

Ann-Sofie, S/Y Lady Annila
 

As per request we have made a short film about our cockpit roof on our SuperMaramu S/Y Lady Annila.
Please follow this URL https://www.dropbox.com/sh/i9dzki9zbz2s4mv/AAA1Nv70ovxLvpMuDCQHAUG1a?dl=0

Regards
Annsofie & Jonas
S/Y Lady Annila, SM 232, 1998
Present in Algarve, Portugal


Re: Water coming in at portside from a previous wrong repair

 

Victor,

I believe that you should get a professional opinion/survey.

I suggest that you ask the most qualified person I know.
Olivier BEAUTE / ATLANTIC YACHT SURVEY
32 avenue des Corsaires
17000 LA ROCHELLE
Tel: +33 546 522 147   Mob: +33 674 028 243
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Tue, Feb 2, 2021 at 7:09 AM VICTOR MOLERO <victor.moleroxx@...> wrote:
Hello all.
 A few yeras back, while in the marina a strong storm caused a collision of my SM with the boat moored to our portside. It was repaired but since then we have noticed water in the kitchen, right under the stove. I think that I have finally found from the inside what the source of water may be (only when it rains), and seems to be on the fibreglass. Does anyone have any recomendation to fix this? Should I just put a patch of fibre glass on top of the affected area inside the boat, or should I do something also at the outside (by the rubrail)? I am attaching some pictures. Any recomendation will be more than welcome.
Victor
SM314 Alendoy 


Water coming in at portside from a previous wrong repair

VICTOR MOLERO
 

Hello all.
 A few yeras back, while in the marina a strong storm caused a collision of my SM with the boat moored to our portside. It was repaired but since then we have noticed water in the kitchen, right under the stove. I think that I have finally found from the inside what the source of water may be (only when it rains), and seems to be on the fibreglass. Does anyone have any recomendation to fix this? Should I just put a patch of fibre glass on top of the affected area inside the boat, or should I do something also at the outside (by the rubrail)? I am attaching some pictures. Any recomendation will be more than welcome.
Victor
SM314 Alendoy 


Re: Cracked Forestay Chainplate

Ellen Cahill
 

Thank you very much for the detailed explanation. The fracture was not in fact on a weld but rather on a bend. Even if it was bent under proper heat tratments I suspect that it still caused stress concentrators to occur in this area. The fracture surface looks very similar indeed to yours Bill, mostly dull and grainy with signs of slow crack propagation. 

So careful inspection and regular washing seems to be the best preventative solution before replacing parts. 


Re: How much Solar?

Justin Maguire
 

Has anyone experienced the 50 with the lithium? 

My new 50..  which because of covid I won’t set foot on until April 1 when she arrives in the US... has 800ah of 24v mastervolt lithium (which I could almost not believe). 

I’ve got the new gn-espace induction stove...

She currently has 600watts of solar on the davits, and 575 on the hard top... I could go up to 1000 on the davits by wanted to see if this setup would work before making the davits into a full blown flight deck 🤣

Anyway.. I’m dying to see what the real world usage will be and how often I’ll have to run the gen set... ideally this setup should provide for a very independent and luxurious setup but real world vs. theory are always different...

Anyone out there have the lithium on the 50 (or the 60 for that matter as it’s the same)?

Scott - your numbers make me sooper optimistic...

Aching to see my new baby in person...

Sv Fregata - amel50 #43



Cheers,
-Justin 



On Feb 1, 2021, at 16:44, Dan Carlson <carlsdan61@...> wrote:


Hello Billy, I just increased my solar to 2 @ 335w panels on a stern arch (670w total). In January in Antigua I'm averaging just under 3kw per day but it is increasing slightly as the days get longer. Location around the island impacts cloud cover! (Currently ranging from 2.5kW to 3.6KW)

We typically consume about 140AH (3.7KW) at anchor. So I have a daily deficit that ranges from 5AH to 40AH. 

I have 400 AH of LiFePo4, so I can now go extended time without running the genset. Basically I run the genset when I want to run the watermaker and then add 30-60amps of charging to load the generator up to about 19-21 amps and add some charge to the batteries.

This is so much better than when I was running the generator daily to keep the batteries charged.

The downside of my new situation is that I used to also keep the water heater hot with the daily generator runs. Now I need to rewire my 230v side so that I can periodically run the water heater from the inverter.

Hope that helps with and additional data point. 

Best regards, Daniel and Lori Carlson on sv BeBe, SM #387



On Mon, Feb 1, 2021, 11:49 AM Billy Newport <billy@...> wrote:
I dont know if this has been addressed before but besides an answer of as much as possible, what are peoples experiences? 
My 55 currently has 750W (2 × 375w LG) on the davitts. I am debating bumping this to 3 panels.

I dont have lithium and dont intend to do that ub
Neil my new GELs die, hopefully in 4 or 5 years.

I suspect 750W will be enough in a sunny location at anchor to avoid running the generator most days. Our boat drops from 100% to 70% overnight or about 200aH. So, at anchor, I figure just under 400aH a day or about 5kw. I dont know if that's high or now. Our boat is pretty stock as fitted.
If I'm moving then I will need to run the genset no matter what because of radar, auto pilot etc, I suspect. 
I'd appreciate other people's experience with Amels.

Billy
Amel 55#56


Re: How much Solar?

Dan Carlson
 

Hello Billy, I just increased my solar to 2 @ 335w panels on a stern arch (670w total). In January in Antigua I'm averaging just under 3kw per day but it is increasing slightly as the days get longer. Location around the island impacts cloud cover! (Currently ranging from 2.5kW to 3.6KW)

We typically consume about 140AH (3.7KW) at anchor. So I have a daily deficit that ranges from 5AH to 40AH. 

I have 400 AH of LiFePo4, so I can now go extended time without running the genset. Basically I run the genset when I want to run the watermaker and then add 30-60amps of charging to load the generator up to about 19-21 amps and add some charge to the batteries.

This is so much better than when I was running the generator daily to keep the batteries charged.

The downside of my new situation is that I used to also keep the water heater hot with the daily generator runs. Now I need to rewire my 230v side so that I can periodically run the water heater from the inverter.

Hope that helps with and additional data point. 

Best regards, Daniel and Lori Carlson on sv BeBe, SM #387



On Mon, Feb 1, 2021, 11:49 AM Billy Newport <billy@...> wrote:
I dont know if this has been addressed before but besides an answer of as much as possible, what are peoples experiences? 
My 55 currently has 750W (2 × 375w LG) on the davitts. I am debating bumping this to 3 panels.

I dont have lithium and dont intend to do that ub
Neil my new GELs die, hopefully in 4 or 5 years.

I suspect 750W will be enough in a sunny location at anchor to avoid running the generator most days. Our boat drops from 100% to 70% overnight or about 200aH. So, at anchor, I figure just under 400aH a day or about 5kw. I dont know if that's high or now. Our boat is pretty stock as fitted.
If I'm moving then I will need to run the genset no matter what because of radar, auto pilot etc, I suspect. 
I'd appreciate other people's experience with Amels.

Billy
Amel 55#56


Re: Cracked Forestay Chainplate

Matt Salatino
 

It’s likely that the “Y” had to be welded.
It’s very difficult to maintain the metallurgy of stainless, the proper mix of chromium, nickel, etc, through the welding process. Putting that welded chainplate on the bow, constantly washed by salt water, is asking for trouble. No wonder they changed the design. Good move.

~~~⛵️~~~Matt Salatino A50 #27

On Feb 1, 2021, at 5:21 PM, Mark McGovern <mfmcgovern@...> wrote:

For what it's worth, it looks like Amel changed the forestay chainplate design for the Super Maramu.  Our forestay chainplate is one solid piece of stainless steel:

<IMG_20201213_170323993.jpg>

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA


Re: Cracked Forestay Chainplate

Mark McGovern
 

For what it's worth, it looks like Amel changed the forestay chainplate design for the Super Maramu.  Our forestay chainplate is one solid piece of stainless steel:



--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA


Re: How much Solar?

michael winand
 

We have 3 345w lg panels. In a good summer day we can see 7kw. Max watts peaks at 1150w to 1200w.
This is with Firefly batteries.  If they top off the batteries early in the morning I will switch on the water heater or 1 air-conditioning unit. 
We are very pleased with the solar system, genset hours are reduced by 70%.
Michael, Nebo sm251 


On Tue, 2 Feb 2021 at 1:49 am, Billy Newport
<billy@...> wrote:
I dont know if this has been addressed before but besides an answer of as much as possible, what are peoples experiences? 
My 55 currently has 750W (2 × 375w LG) on the davitts. I am debating bumping this to 3 panels.

I dont have lithium and dont intend to do that ub
Neil my new GELs die, hopefully in 4 or 5 years.

I suspect 750W will be enough in a sunny location at anchor to avoid running the generator most days. Our boat drops from 100% to 70% overnight or about 200aH. So, at anchor, I figure just under 400aH a day or about 5kw. I dont know if that's high or now. Our boat is pretty stock as fitted.
If I'm moving then I will need to run the genset no matter what because of radar, auto pilot etc, I suspect. 
I'd appreciate other people's experience with Amels.

Billy
Amel 55#56


Re: How much Solar?

Karen Smith
 

Billy,

Our usage is pretty consistent, an average of between 200 and 250 W while at anchor, and 325W or a bit more when underway.  This is with two chest freezers, and the front opening galley fridge which are the big usage hogs.  This is separate from the power needed for the water maker or laundry.  We have a smaller battery bank of 464 Amp-hrs, and the typical consumption we see over night is MUCH less than what you are seeing.  Typically, our SOC drops about 15 to 18% overnight, significantly less than 100 Amp-hrs.  Our typical overall usage while at anchor for 24 hours is about 180 to 200 Amp-hrs with about half this amount being supplied by our panels.  All those numbers shift a bit depending on weather and temperature.

Our solar panels rate out at about 630W, and we typically run the generator every other day.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Charleston, SC, USA


Re: How much Solar?

Mark McGovern
 

Billy,

This thread has some great "real world" solar data in it: https://amelyachtowners.groups.io/g/main/topic/32721714  

Pay particular attention to the posts by Scott from Tengah (Amel 54) and Porter of Ibis (also an Amel 54).

To summarize, Tengah has 960 Watts of solar and was able to average ~5400 Wh/day into it's house bank over the course of a month.  Note, Tengah has an LiFePo4 battery bank.  Ibis has a similar size solar array at 945 Watts but it has an AGM battery bank.  Porter doesn't give an exact amount of Wh/day put into his house bank but looking at the image he posted of his solar data, it appears to be less than half the amount that Tengah is able to put in.  The difference is mainly due to the significantly reduced charge acceptance rate of Lead Acid vs LFP batteries at higher SOCs.

So while adding a third solar panel will help, it won't likely eliminate the need for you to run the generator every day.  At least not until you change out your batteries from lead acid to something with a much higher charge acceptance rate at high states of charge.

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA


Re: Cracked Forestay Chainplate

Karen Smith
 

Ellen,

This kind of failure is not unusual with stainless steel, and can be seen on many stainless parts in saltwater service, especially those under cyclical loads just like your headstay chainplate.

We had this happen with one of our jib cars, and if I zoom in close on your photo, I am pretty sure the same scenario presents itself.  https://fetchinketch.net/2019/07/26/failure-analysis/

The other place I have seen this happen on our boat is in the shackles on the boom outhaul cars. The usual assumption is they break because of overloading, when they actually have been greatly weakened by nearly invisible crevice corrosion before the failure.

The shape of this piece and its location on your boat means that it is very hard to actually give it a really effective visual inspection, even if it was removed from the boat and in hand.

The best way to prevent it is to be sure than any welding is first class, by somebody who really knows stainless steel, and it is fully electropolished afterwards so there are no pits or cracks for corrosion to get started.  Then careful inspection on a regular basis with a magnifier looking for incipient cracks.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Charleston, SC, USA

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