1. main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
   Date   
Re: Rub rail purchase

amelforme
 

In 1986, the Sharki, Maramu and Mango all shared the same rub rail. I believe they did throughout the entire production. I sold my first Amel in 1981 and am not sure of the years previous to that.

 

 

All the best,

Joel

 

           JOEL F. POTTER ~ CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST, L.L.C.

                                         The Experienced AMEL Guy

UNSURPASSED AMEL MARKETING EXPERIENCE AND PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE

                                  Office 954-462-5869  Cell 954-812-2485

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of James Watkins via groups.io
Sent: Saturday, July 25, 2020 3:07 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Rub rail purchase

 

I am not sure exactly on the various rub rails but they are for sure different.  The information I have is that the Maramu and Sharki are the same.  If you wush I will send you a drawing of the die when it is done.

You might ask Joel Porter he may know.

 

Jim Watkins

Act II Maramu hull 185

 

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

 

From: svcharisma via groups.io
Sent: Saturday, July 25, 2020 12:50 AM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Rub rail purchase

 

Jim,

I'm curious if your Maramu rub rail might be similar to our Mango hull #62, built in 1986.  What did you send them to confirm the profile?  Are you able to post a picture of your rub rail profile?

 

Alan

s/v Charisma

Mango #62

 
Re: Rub rail purchase

James Watkins
 

I am not sure exactly on the various rub rails but they are for sure different.  The information I have is that the Maramu and Sharki are the same.  If you wush I will send you a drawing of the die when it is done.

You might ask Joel Porter he may know.

 

Jim Watkins

Act II Maramu hull 185

 

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

 

From: svcharisma via groups.io
Sent: Saturday, July 25, 2020 12:50 AM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Rub rail purchase

 

Jim,

I'm curious if your Maramu rub rail might be similar to our Mango hull #62, built in 1986.  What did you send them to confirm the profile?  Are you able to post a picture of your rub rail profile?

 

Alan

s/v Charisma

Mango #62

 
Re: Dive Compressor on a SM

Porter McRoberts
 

I was at Compressed Air Incorporated last week picking up some filters. 
Shooting the breeze with the owner he offered he routinely sees 20+ year old Bauers working fine. 
Porter 
A54-152



On Jul 24, 2020, at 7:38 PM, Giorgio Ardrizzi <giorgio.ardrizzi@...> wrote:


Coltri works well, but the materials used are of less quality than Bauer. Obviously the cost is different.
My Bauer, built in 1984, looks like new.

Giorgio Ardrizzi
sy Saudade III - Sharki #1
Fort de France - Martinica
Re: Dive Compressor on a SM

Giorgio Ardrizzi
 

Coltri works well, but the materials used are of less quality than Bauer. Obviously the cost is different.
My Bauer, built in 1984, looks like new.

Giorgio Ardrizzi
sy Saudade III - Sharki #1
Fort de France - Martinica
Re: A54: Cable length between main mast head and chart table

Sv Garulfo
 

Hi all,

We have now installed the new antenna and vhf rg-8x cable from Glomex. 

We bought the 30m of pre-crimped cable and it turns out 25m would work too, as we measured the minimum length with reasonable slack and bends to be 24.5m. 


Best,

Thomas
GARULFO 
A54-122
Tahiti 

On 10 Feb 2020, at 07:16, S/V Garulfo <svgarulfo@...> wrote:

Hi all,

Does anyone know the precise length of cable required to go from the top of the main mast to the chart table through the standard conduit on the Amel 54? For instance for the VHF antenna cable.

I’m considering using an pre-crimped FME-terminated RG-8x VHF cable and I need to select the correct length.

A contact at Pochon said « probably » 25m and a trusted owner said maybe 28m.


Thanks
Thomas
GARULFO
A54-122
Nuku Hiva, French Polynesia


Re: Rub rail purchase

svcharisma
 

Jim,
I'm curious if your Maramu rub rail might be similar to our Mango hull #62, built in 1986.  What did you send them to confirm the profile?  Are you able to post a picture of your rub rail profile?

Alan
s/v Charisma
Mango #62
Re: Dive Compressor on a SM

Sv Garulfo
 

Any insight on bauer vs. Coltri?

Thanks
Soraya
Garulfo A154-122
Tahiti, French Polynesia
Re: Masse negative leak

Sv Garulfo
 

Nick,

Remember that there may be more than one source for the leak. In that unfortunate case, you would not find the leak by disconnecting a faulty circuit since another faulty circuit will still show the leak in the tester. 
The laborious but absolute process is to disconnect all but one circuit to validate that circuit is ok. Until you find one that is faulty. Fix the issue and move to the next one. Until you’ve done them all. It can be a lot of work. 
It makes sense to start from the battery bank (the tree root) and find the faulty branch(es) up to the faulty equipment(s). 

To make things easier, you can build a portable tester with an Led bulb and 2 wires long enough to connect to the bonding system (closest available spot to the connection you are working on, could be the rigging/rail depending on your 54 hull number) and the battery positive (when searching for a negative leak). That battery positive would be very close to where you’re working since you’re only disconnecting negative cables. That way you can test directly the existence of the leak. 
The led bulb will also be more sensitive to the strength of the leak than the built in tester. 

When we went through that exercise on Garulfo, we found 2 leaks in the forward locker: navigation lights; the negative wire was chafed and allowed a connection to the handrail tube it went through, and bow thruster; probably some carbon dust as the leak was weak and intermittent. 

Hope that will help, 

Good luck,

Thomas
GARULFO 
A54-122
Tahiti 



On Fri, 24 Jul 2020 at 08:02, Craig & Katherine Briggs SN 68 Sangaris Tropic Isle Harbor, FL via groups.io <sv_sangaris=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Nick,
Bill's comment that these problems can be elusive and your saying it is a straight run in a conduit reminded me of a problem in SM Miss Lindy years ago. They had had near-fire meltdowns of all the major wires in the engine room (looked like Dali's clocks dripping). Three times over just a few months!

Each time they had "professional marine electricians" replace all the damaged wires. After rewire #3 in Cartagena, we happened to be leaving the same day and they had meltdown #4. We got them to anchor near us in the San Blas and I spent 3 days cobbling their system back together. I finished, but noticed a slight potential between the start negative and the engine block. Scratching my head and thinking I was wasting my time, I disconnected the battery wires and pulled them out of the conduit a few feet. Sure enough, there was a slight chafe-through in the insulation that under the right conditions underway would allow a dead short.

Obviously just a shot in the dark and unlikely to be the cause, but maybe worth pulling and inspecting the wires in the conduit.

Good luck with it,
Craig

Re: Masse negative leak

Craig & Katherine Briggs SN 68 Sangaris Tropic Isle Harbor, FL <sv_sangaris@...>
 

Hi Nick,
Bill's comment that these problems can be elusive and your saying it is a straight run in a conduit reminded me of a problem in SM Miss Lindy years ago. They had had near-fire meltdowns of all the major wires in the engine room (looked like Dali's clocks dripping). Three times over just a few months!

Each time they had "professional marine electricians" replace all the damaged wires. After rewire #3 in Cartagena, we happened to be leaving the same day and they had meltdown #4. We got them to anchor near us in the San Blas and I spent 3 days cobbling their system back together. I finished, but noticed a slight potential between the start negative and the engine block. Scratching my head and thinking I was wasting my time, I disconnected the battery wires and pulled them out of the conduit a few feet. Sure enough, there was a slight chafe-through in the insulation that under the right conditions underway would allow a dead short.

Obviously just a shot in the dark and unlikely to be the cause, but maybe worth pulling and inspecting the wires in the conduit.

Good luck with it,
Craig
Re: For Sale: S/V Adagio, SM 209 ... www.svadagio.us

Mark Garver
 

Gary,

I am so happy that Jennifer and I got to meet you last week on the Chesapeake and see your great boat. I hope the pork chops were good! :)

There is a couple who are friends of our slip mates over in Gloucester Point that are in the market, we showed them our SM after we returned from the trip, not sure their budget but I will let them know. 

Wishing you the best!

Mark and Jennifer Garver
S/V It’s Good
Amel SM #105
Glouster Point, VA

On Jul 24, 2020, at 10:51 AM, Gary Wells <gary@...> wrote:

Hi folks,

Well, after several months of planning and discussions Robin and I have decided to offer Adagio for sale. 

I put a notice in the "For Sale" sub group and have cobbled together a web site for more information about the Yacht.

This is a mixed-emotions day, actually posting her as for sale, but it is where we see us going in the future that drives this decision (that, and a couple of grandkids :)

The challenges will likely be two fold: we are still planning to stay and live aboard full time and we are planning to continue our sailing agenda for the upcoming year.  So, we will need to plan ahead a bit when making arrangements to come see her.

Robin and I are happy to be moving forward to our next chapter but a bit melancholy about closing this one. Our best hope is that Adagio will find new owners ready to pursue their own dream of traveling the seas and who will get as much pleasure from her as we have.

More info at www.svadagio.us

 

Gary W.
SM 209, Adagio
Cape Charles, VA, USA        

                                                             <A-002.jpg>
Re: For Sale: S/V Adagio, SM 209 ... www.svadagio.us

Justin Paulsen
 

I really wish I was in a position to buy right now.  I read through the description and it sounds perfect!



On Fri, Jul 24, 2020 at 10:51 AM Gary Wells <gary@...> wrote:

Hi folks,

Well, after several months of planning and discussions Robin and I have decided to offer Adagio for sale. 

I put a notice in the "For Sale" sub group and have cobbled together a web site for more information about the Yacht.

This is a mixed-emotions day, actually posting her as for sale, but it is where we see us going in the future that drives this decision (that, and a couple of grandkids :)

The challenges will likely be two fold: we are still planning to stay and live aboard full time and we are planning to continue our sailing agenda for the upcoming year.  So, we will need to plan ahead a bit when making arrangements to come see her.

Robin and I are happy to be moving forward to our next chapter but a bit melancholy about closing this one. Our best hope is that Adagio will find new owners ready to pursue their own dream of traveling the seas and who will get as much pleasure from her as we have.

More info at www.svadagio.us

 

Gary W.
SM 209, Adagio
Cape Charles, VA, USA        

                                                            



--
Justin Paulsen
IT Professional

"The world is open, are you?"
For Sale: S/V Adagio, SM 209 ... www.svadagio.us

Gary Wells
 

Hi folks,

Well, after several months of planning and discussions Robin and I have decided to offer Adagio for sale. 

I put a notice in the "For Sale" sub group and have cobbled together a web site for more information about the Yacht.

This is a mixed-emotions day, actually posting her as for sale, but it is where we see us going in the future that drives this decision (that, and a couple of grandkids :)

The challenges will likely be two fold: we are still planning to stay and live aboard full time and we are planning to continue our sailing agenda for the upcoming year.  So, we will need to plan ahead a bit when making arrangements to come see her.

Robin and I are happy to be moving forward to our next chapter but a bit melancholy about closing this one. Our best hope is that Adagio will find new owners ready to pursue their own dream of traveling the seas and who will get as much pleasure from her as we have.

More info at www.svadagio.us

 

Gary W.
SM 209, Adagio
Cape Charles, VA, USA        

                                                            

Re: Masse negative leak

ngtnewington Newington
 

Yes I removed all of them from that post you circled.
Anyhow not to worry I will just have to work at it. On a positive note I snorkelled the anodes and they are not dissolving before my eyes...
Nick
Amelia anchored Mikanos (not my favourite Greek island)
AML 54-019


On 24 Jul 2020, at 16:38, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


Nick,

I think I would need to be there to work through this. Sorry, working remotely with just text email makes it difficult to understand where you disconnected the 24-volt negative cable in the forward locker. But, see the circled wires in this photo. Did you remove all of them from the post?
<image.png>
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Fri, Jul 24, 2020 at 4:49 AM ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Bill,
So I took off the negative cables from the master switch one by one and checked the Masse indicator. Fault turns out to be on the biggest cable which is 95mm square. This is the cable that runs to the bow locker plastic electric cupboard.
So great, I assumed that it must be the windlasses or the bowthruster. Trouble is that even if I  disconnect the 95mm sq cable that goes into the cupboard and then check the indicator, the light comes on...
I can only assume the problem is between the bow locker and the battery locker, but from my investigations it is a straight run in a conduit with nothing T’d off it.
Any ideas?
Nick
S/Y Amelia anchored Mikanos with the Meltemi cranking.
AML54-019



On 22 Jul 2020, at 20:29, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


Good luck. Let me know how it goes. Sometimes the cause is evasive. I should have also said the most probable suspect after the macerator pumps is anything that you have added or changed AC or DC since the MASSE last reported no negative fault. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse 
Amel Owners Yacht School
+1 832-380-4970 | brouse@...
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com 
Yacht School Calendar: www.preparetocastoff.blogspot.com/p/calendar.html


   

On Wed, Jul 22, 2020, 12:09 PM ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
I have been playing around at trying to identify the leak to no avail. So the next step will be as you suggest. I will disconnect the battery positive cables and the remove all the negative cables from the big switch and reconnect one by one to identify the circuit at fault.

Nick 
Amelia
AML54-0197


On 22 Jul 2020, at 17:46, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


Nick,

I did it by unbolting at least one of the main switches and pulling it aside. 

You can also remove the positive wire from the battery bank to the switch by unbolting it at the junction block inside the battery compartment and also remove the positive wire on the starter battery. An alternative in the battery bank which may be easier is to remove the positive wire from the battery post each of your 6 pairs of batteries (the one to the junction block).


Best,

CW Bill Rouse 
Amel Owners Yacht School
+1 832-380-4970 | brouse@...
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com 
Yacht School Calendar: www.preparetocastoff.blogspot.com/p/calendar.html


   

On Tue, Jul 21, 2020, 11:23 PM ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Thanks Bill,

Alas it is not the Macerators. I hate working in the space for the main battery on/off as it is so easy to short out the positive to negative with a ratchet handle... maybe I can cover the positive with plastic sheet or something...
Nick 
Stern to in Finikas Syros waiting for the Meltemi to ease just a tad...
Amelia AML54-019


On 22 Jul 2020, at 00:43, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


Ofer & Nick,

Remember, the minus Masse Light means there is a connection between 24-volts negative to the Amel bonding system. The most common issue is a Jabsco Macerator pump that has developed a leak at the seal, causing a connection to the Amel Bonding. Start by disconnecting the green/yellow wire from each macerator pump. If the light no longer comes ON, you have found it. Replace that macerator pump and reconnect the green/yellow wires.

If it was not the macerator pump and the light is ON for the (-) side, it is more difficult because the individual 24-volt breakers only turn OFF the positive side (+). For a negative side (-) Masse fault, you will need to disconnect the negative wires from the negative main battery switch. On most Amels, this is the lower switch. When the light goes out, you have narrowed your search to one main circuit.

If the (+) side is ON, try turning OFF each breaker throughout the boat one at a time. Don't forget breakers for the windlass, winches, and breakers in the engine room. Do this with all breakers.

I hope this helps you.
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Tue, Jul 21, 2020 at 12:32 PM ofer magen <ofermagen@...> wrote:
Hi Nick,
We had the same problem.
It took long time to solve , because the light was not always ON.

The way to find where  a bad contact between the minus and the grounding system is, is to start from the main switches near the batteries, disconnect each of the cables while checking the light. Ones you find a cable that if  disconnected the is OFF, look for the equipment down the cable and check the contacts and put corrosion x.
We found the problem in the forward locker . We had a leak of water from the new Bad! installed windlass rubber deck switches that created humidity on all electrical motors in the locker.

Good luck with the challenge.
You can call me if you want more info.



Ofer Magen
A 54 160 2010
Cyprus.
+972528795540
Re: Masse negative leak

CW Bill Rouse
 

Nick,

I think I would need to be there to work through this. Sorry, working remotely with just text email makes it difficult to understand where you disconnected the 24-volt negative cable in the forward locker. But, see the circled wires in this photo. Did you remove all of them from the post?
image.png
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Fri, Jul 24, 2020 at 4:49 AM ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Bill,
So I took off the negative cables from the master switch one by one and checked the Masse indicator. Fault turns out to be on the biggest cable which is 95mm square. This is the cable that runs to the bow locker plastic electric cupboard.
So great, I assumed that it must be the windlasses or the bowthruster. Trouble is that even if I  disconnect the 95mm sq cable that goes into the cupboard and then check the indicator, the light comes on...
I can only assume the problem is between the bow locker and the battery locker, but from my investigations it is a straight run in a conduit with nothing T’d off it.
Any ideas?
Nick
S/Y Amelia anchored Mikanos with the Meltemi cranking.
AML54-019



On 22 Jul 2020, at 20:29, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


Good luck. Let me know how it goes. Sometimes the cause is evasive. I should have also said the most probable suspect after the macerator pumps is anything that you have added or changed AC or DC since the MASSE last reported no negative fault. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse 
Amel Owners Yacht School
+1 832-380-4970 | brouse@...
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com 
Yacht School Calendar: www.preparetocastoff.blogspot.com/p/calendar.html


   

On Wed, Jul 22, 2020, 12:09 PM ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
I have been playing around at trying to identify the leak to no avail. So the next step will be as you suggest. I will disconnect the battery positive cables and the remove all the negative cables from the big switch and reconnect one by one to identify the circuit at fault.

Nick 
Amelia
AML54-0197


On 22 Jul 2020, at 17:46, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


Nick,

I did it by unbolting at least one of the main switches and pulling it aside. 

You can also remove the positive wire from the battery bank to the switch by unbolting it at the junction block inside the battery compartment and also remove the positive wire on the starter battery. An alternative in the battery bank which may be easier is to remove the positive wire from the battery post each of your 6 pairs of batteries (the one to the junction block).


Best,

CW Bill Rouse 
Amel Owners Yacht School
+1 832-380-4970 | brouse@...
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com 
Yacht School Calendar: www.preparetocastoff.blogspot.com/p/calendar.html


   

On Tue, Jul 21, 2020, 11:23 PM ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Thanks Bill,

Alas it is not the Macerators. I hate working in the space for the main battery on/off as it is so easy to short out the positive to negative with a ratchet handle... maybe I can cover the positive with plastic sheet or something...
Nick 
Stern to in Finikas Syros waiting for the Meltemi to ease just a tad...
Amelia AML54-019


On 22 Jul 2020, at 00:43, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


Ofer & Nick,

Remember, the minus Masse Light means there is a connection between 24-volts negative to the Amel bonding system. The most common issue is a Jabsco Macerator pump that has developed a leak at the seal, causing a connection to the Amel Bonding. Start by disconnecting the green/yellow wire from each macerator pump. If the light no longer comes ON, you have found it. Replace that macerator pump and reconnect the green/yellow wires.

If it was not the macerator pump and the light is ON for the (-) side, it is more difficult because the individual 24-volt breakers only turn OFF the positive side (+). For a negative side (-) Masse fault, you will need to disconnect the negative wires from the negative main battery switch. On most Amels, this is the lower switch. When the light goes out, you have narrowed your search to one main circuit.

If the (+) side is ON, try turning OFF each breaker throughout the boat one at a time. Don't forget breakers for the windlass, winches, and breakers in the engine room. Do this with all breakers.

I hope this helps you.
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Tue, Jul 21, 2020 at 12:32 PM ofer magen <ofermagen@...> wrote:
Hi Nick,
We had the same problem.
It took long time to solve , because the light was not always ON.

The way to find where  a bad contact between the minus and the grounding system is, is to start from the main switches near the batteries, disconnect each of the cables while checking the light. Ones you find a cable that if  disconnected the is OFF, look for the equipment down the cable and check the contacts and put corrosion x.
We found the problem in the forward locker . We had a leak of water from the new Bad! installed windlass rubber deck switches that created humidity on all electrical motors in the locker.

Good luck with the challenge.
You can call me if you want more info.



Ofer Magen
A 54 160 2010
Cyprus.
+972528795540
Re: Rub rail purchase

James Watkins
 

I did understand that but in conversation and email with the company I mentioned there are a lot of us Amelians out there so it could be a really good market for a deifferent rub rail for Maramus and Sharkis.

 

Thanks for finding them as they seem quite capable.

 

Best Regards

Jim

 

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

 

From: Patrick McAneny via groups.io
Sent: Friday, July 24, 2020 2:32 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Rub rail purchase

 

Jim, I was just going to write you to tell you that your rubrail is of a different design,so I could not include you in our order,too bad. There may well be other Maramu owners wanting to join your order,making it cheaper for all.
Good Luck,
Pat
SM Shenanigans

 
Re: Rub rail purchase

Patrick McAneny
 

Jim, I was just going to write you to tell you that your rubrail is of a different design,so I could not include you in our order,too bad. There may well be other Maramu owners wanting to join your order,making it cheaper for all.
Good Luck,
Pat
SM Shenanigans
Re: Rub rail purchase

James Watkins
 

Pat  I am the owner of a Maramu hull 185 and am going to also replace the rubrail but as I understand it is quite different than the one you are ordering.  Only send this to let you know that I am also in the process of ordering a die to do a new rub rail from Techno Rubber Industries also.  Only mention it as they may be even sharper on pricing if a couple of different Amel models are ordering from them.  I don’t have any idea if other Maramu or Sharki owers would like to replace their rub rail but getting more order for a custom part always saves money and after thirty years or so they do need replacing. 

 

Best Regards

Jim Watkins

Act II Maramu hull 185

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

 

From: Patrick McAneny via groups.io
Sent: Friday, July 24, 2020 1:14 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Rub rail purchase

 

Vladimir, I have a sketch that Maude sent me,which I will send. But the rub rail is going to be fabricated based on an actual piece of rubrail to be certain it is an exact reproduction. They will send me a sample before production begins. I have paid for the design/die so the order is in the works. The order will be placed within the next ten days, so I urge anyone interested to join the group buy soon. The more owners that place an order will bring the price even lower.
 Thanks,
Par
Shenanigans #123

 
Re: Rub rail purchase

Patrick McAneny
 

Vladimir, I have a sketch that Maude sent me,which I will send. But the rub rail is going to be fabricated based on an actual piece of rubrail to be certain it is an exact reproduction. They will send me a sample before production begins. I have paid for the design/die so the order is in the works. The order will be placed within the next ten days, so I urge anyone interested to join the group buy soon. The more owners that place an order will bring the price even lower.
 Thanks,
Par
Shenanigans #123
Re: Masse negative leak

ngtnewington Newington
 

Hi Bill,
So I took off the negative cables from the master switch one by one and checked the Masse indicator. Fault turns out to be on the biggest cable which is 95mm square. This is the cable that runs to the bow locker plastic electric cupboard.
So great, I assumed that it must be the windlasses or the bowthruster. Trouble is that even if I  disconnect the 95mm sq cable that goes into the cupboard and then check the indicator, the light comes on...
I can only assume the problem is between the bow locker and the battery locker, but from my investigations it is a straight run in a conduit with nothing T’d off it.
Any ideas?
Nick
S/Y Amelia anchored Mikanos with the Meltemi cranking.
AML54-019



On 22 Jul 2020, at 20:29, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


Good luck. Let me know how it goes. Sometimes the cause is evasive. I should have also said the most probable suspect after the macerator pumps is anything that you have added or changed AC or DC since the MASSE last reported no negative fault. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse 
Amel Owners Yacht School
+1 832-380-4970 | brouse@...
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com 
Yacht School Calendar: www.preparetocastoff.blogspot.com/p/calendar.html


   

On Wed, Jul 22, 2020, 12:09 PM ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
I have been playing around at trying to identify the leak to no avail. So the next step will be as you suggest. I will disconnect the battery positive cables and the remove all the negative cables from the big switch and reconnect one by one to identify the circuit at fault.

Nick 
Amelia
AML54-0197


On 22 Jul 2020, at 17:46, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


Nick,

I did it by unbolting at least one of the main switches and pulling it aside. 

You can also remove the positive wire from the battery bank to the switch by unbolting it at the junction block inside the battery compartment and also remove the positive wire on the starter battery. An alternative in the battery bank which may be easier is to remove the positive wire from the battery post each of your 6 pairs of batteries (the one to the junction block).


Best,

CW Bill Rouse 
Amel Owners Yacht School
+1 832-380-4970 | brouse@...
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com 
Yacht School Calendar: www.preparetocastoff.blogspot.com/p/calendar.html


   

On Tue, Jul 21, 2020, 11:23 PM ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Thanks Bill,

Alas it is not the Macerators. I hate working in the space for the main battery on/off as it is so easy to short out the positive to negative with a ratchet handle... maybe I can cover the positive with plastic sheet or something...
Nick 
Stern to in Finikas Syros waiting for the Meltemi to ease just a tad...
Amelia AML54-019


On 22 Jul 2020, at 00:43, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


Ofer & Nick,

Remember, the minus Masse Light means there is a connection between 24-volts negative to the Amel bonding system. The most common issue is a Jabsco Macerator pump that has developed a leak at the seal, causing a connection to the Amel Bonding. Start by disconnecting the green/yellow wire from each macerator pump. If the light no longer comes ON, you have found it. Replace that macerator pump and reconnect the green/yellow wires.

If it was not the macerator pump and the light is ON for the (-) side, it is more difficult because the individual 24-volt breakers only turn OFF the positive side (+). For a negative side (-) Masse fault, you will need to disconnect the negative wires from the negative main battery switch. On most Amels, this is the lower switch. When the light goes out, you have narrowed your search to one main circuit.

If the (+) side is ON, try turning OFF each breaker throughout the boat one at a time. Don't forget breakers for the windlass, winches, and breakers in the engine room. Do this with all breakers.

I hope this helps you.
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Tue, Jul 21, 2020 at 12:32 PM ofer magen <ofermagen@...> wrote:
Hi Nick,
We had the same problem.
It took long time to solve , because the light was not always ON.

The way to find where  a bad contact between the minus and the grounding system is, is to start from the main switches near the batteries, disconnect each of the cables while checking the light. Ones you find a cable that if  disconnected the is OFF, look for the equipment down the cable and check the contacts and put corrosion x.
We found the problem in the forward locker . We had a leak of water from the new Bad! installed windlass rubber deck switches that created humidity on all electrical motors in the locker.

Good luck with the challenge.
You can call me if you want more info.



Ofer Magen
A 54 160 2010
Cyprus.
+972528795540
Re: Rub rail purchase

VLADIMIR SONSEV
 

Pat,
Please provide more information on the rub rail.
Do do you have a sketch.

Vladimir
SM 355 "Life is Good"


On Tue, Jul 21, 2020, 1:21 PM Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
I have sent a cross section of my rubrail ,from my Super Maramu to Techno Rubber Industries in Fla. ,they will produce a die and sample for my inspection . I intend to place an order as soon as I receive the sample and final pricing. The die will cost me $450.00 ,the rub rail will run somewhere around $11 per ft. ,roughly $1200. The more boats ordering would bring the price down and I would like to share the cost of the die. The rub rail would be slightly off white. Another owner of a Mango has already purchased from this company and was happy with the service and product. Shipping to Maryland where I live is roughly estimated to be about $200.
So if anyone would like to join me in a group buy ,please email me at , sailw32@... . I will give the final number of orders to the company as soon as I get the sample from them. They will then give me a final price based on the number of orders ,the more the less. I will probably place the order within the next ten days,so please get back to me ASAP.
Thanks,
Pat McAneny
SM Shenanigans #123

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