Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Hot Water Heater Failure

Bill Kinney <greatketch@...>
 

I assume (but do not know) that the standard Amel heavy rubber hoses are good for at least 80C.  They specified extra good stuff everywhere.  That assumes no other type of hose has been added, or changed out on your boat in its lifetime.  The standard polyester fiber reinforced clear PVC hose that most boasts are built with has a max rating of 150F (65C).

The real problem in my mind is that 80C water can come out of a faucet. That would worry me. If that doesn’t concern you, then set it for what ever temperature makes you happy!

Just for reference, the standard setting for domestic hot water in the USA is about 125F (52C). 

Bill Kinney
SM #160, Harmonie
Fort Lauderdale, FL
“Ships and men rot in port."






On Dec 12, 2016, at 16:14, svperegrinus@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Bill & Bill,


OK... so if 80 °C is too much for the hoses, what is the recommended temp setting?  On Quick water heaters, the thermostat allows a range which I believe starts at 40°.  I have ours set at 80°.

Cheerio,

Peregrinus
SM2K #350
Venice



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Hot Water Heater Failure

svperegrinus@yahoo.com
 

Bill & Bill,

OK... so if 80 °C is too much for the hoses, what is the recommended temp setting?  On Quick water heaters, the thermostat allows a range which I believe starts at 40°.  I have ours set at 80°.

Cheerio,

Peregrinus
SM2K #350
Venice


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Hot Water Heater Failure

James Wendell <ms42phantom54@...>
 

Bill, good point. The excessive heat is likely the reason the primary gasket carbonized when my water heater dumped.
Jamie Wendell
 
s/v Phantom Amel 54 #044


On Monday, December 12, 2016 5:08 PM, "Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:


 
My suggestion (and it is worth exactly what you paid for it) is no matter if it came with a tempering valve from the factory or not, it should have one. 80C water is not good for most flexible hoses and NEVER for possible contact with people. 

Tempering valves are an easy addition and are used on many household hot water systems. They are readily available from plumbing supply houses and are easy to plumb into an older tank. 

The "basic" model of the Isotherm is still available with out the tempering valve. The standard Isotherm thermostat is not adjustable, it is set at 75C (167F).  That's REALLY hot coming out of the tap. 

Bill Kinney

On Dec 12, 2016, at 15:11, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 
Duane,
The other Bill is correct, however the valve he speaks of did not start showing up in Isotemp production inventory until about 2006-2007.
Your Isotemp water heater probably does not have the mixing valve that mixes cold water with the hot water at the Isotemp water heater, thus adjusting the temperature of the engine heated or electric heated water.
Your shower taps have a temperature adjustment for a normal range. If you press the button you will find that you can adjust colder or hotter. I think this will help you.
Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On Dec 12, 2016 3:55 PM, "Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
There is supposed to be a bypass valve on the outlet of the ISO temp heater. It mixes cold water in to temper the very hot water in the tank. It is an important safety device. When heated with engine water the tank can get up to 180F (82C) that's way too hot for domestic water!

Bill


On Dec 12, 2016, at 14:42, sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups. com> wrote:

 
Our Isotemp water heater provides extremely hot water, to the point it could burn you.  I have looked and don't see anywhere the temperature can be set (like a residential water heater).  Is that high temp normal or does it indicate the thermostat has failed?  It's been like that since we bought the boat.

Duane
Wanderer, SM#477



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Hot Water Heater Failure

Bill Kinney <greatketch@...>
 

My suggestion (and it is worth exactly what you paid for it) is no matter if it came with a tempering valve from the factory or not, it should have one. 80C water is not good for most flexible hoses and NEVER for possible contact with people. 

Tempering valves are an easy addition and are used on many household hot water systems. They are readily available from plumbing supply houses and are easy to plumb into an older tank. 

The "basic" model of the Isotherm is still available with out the tempering valve. The standard Isotherm thermostat is not adjustable, it is set at 75C (167F).  That's REALLY hot coming out of the tap. 

Bill Kinney

On Dec 12, 2016, at 15:11, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Duane,

The other Bill is correct, however the valve he speaks of did not start showing up in Isotemp production inventory until about 2006-2007.

Your Isotemp water heater probably does not have the mixing valve that mixes cold water with the hot water at the Isotemp water heater, thus adjusting the temperature of the engine heated or electric heated water.

Your shower taps have a temperature adjustment for a normal range. If you press the button you will find that you can adjust colder or hotter. I think this will help you.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Dec 12, 2016 3:55 PM, "Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

There is supposed to be a bypass valve on the outlet of the ISO temp heater. It mixes cold water in to temper the very hot water in the tank. It is an important safety device. When heated with engine water the tank can get up to 180F (82C) that's way too hot for domestic water!

Bill


On Dec 12, 2016, at 14:42, sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Our Isotemp water heater provides extremely hot water, to the point it could burn you.  I have looked and don't see anywhere the temperature can be set (like a residential water heater).  Is that high temp normal or does it indicate the thermostat has failed?  It's been like that since we bought the boat.


Duane
Wanderer, SM#477


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Climma Heater

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Oh, and if you have to remove and replace the heating unit, it is best to remove the toilet first. You will find the wiring and water hoses ling enough to move the Climma unit to where the toilet was and work on it there.

But, I will bet you a bottle of wine that the capacitors solve your problem.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Dec 12, 2016 2:36 PM, "pepinoamel" <no_reply@...> wrote:
 

Hi all,


I have encountered a problem with my Climma heater in the rear cabin.  The fan is running on all 3 stages, the air conditioner is working but the heater unit doesn't heat.  After talking to the Climma dealer in Athens, I suspect I need to replace the heating unit.  I believe it can be taken out by undoing the 4 screws that hold down the top steel plate.  Has anybody had this problem and has experience in replacing it?  I hope it can be done by leaving the unit in situ.  Any advice would be appreciated.


Many thanks.


Gerhard Hoffmann

SY Pepino 381

Evia, Greece


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Climma Heater

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Gerhard,

I strongly suggest something else!

That Climma unit has a fail-safe switch which will keep the heating unit from turning on if the fan speed is too low. In fact Climma states do not operate the heater on LOW fan speed.

I suggest that your fan speed has slowed because the 3 fan capacitors are out of tolerance. Tell Climma I told you this and order a set of capacitors from them. It will be less than 50 euro for all 3 or you might find a shop selling capacitors and can buy all 3 for less than 20 euro. Be sure to note that two of the three are identical but one is different.

I have suggested the exact thing to 5 Amel SM Owners. They all said that they had not noticed the slow-down of fan speed. The capacitors solved their problem.

You will save a lot of money if you try what I suggest first. And you will need those capacitors sooner than later if it is the heating unit.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Dec 12, 2016 2:36 PM, "pepinoamel" <no_reply@...> wrote:
 

Hi all,


I have encountered a problem with my Climma heater in the rear cabin.  The fan is running on all 3 stages, the air conditioner is working but the heater unit doesn't heat.  After talking to the Climma dealer in Athens, I suspect I need to replace the heating unit.  I believe it can be taken out by undoing the 4 screws that hold down the top steel plate.  Has anybody had this problem and has experience in replacing it?  I hope it can be done by leaving the unit in situ.  Any advice would be appreciated.


Many thanks.


Gerhard Hoffmann

SY Pepino 381

Evia, Greece


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Hot Water Heater Failure

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Duane,

The other Bill is correct, however the valve he speaks of did not start showing up in Isotemp production inventory until about 2006-2007.

Your Isotemp water heater probably does not have the mixing valve that mixes cold water with the hot water at the Isotemp water heater, thus adjusting the temperature of the engine heated or electric heated water.

Your shower taps have a temperature adjustment for a normal range. If you press the button you will find that you can adjust colder or hotter. I think this will help you.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Dec 12, 2016 3:55 PM, "Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

There is supposed to be a bypass valve on the outlet of the ISO temp heater. It mixes cold water in to temper the very hot water in the tank. It is an important safety device. When heated with engine water the tank can get up to 180F (82C) that's way too hot for domestic water!

Bill


On Dec 12, 2016, at 14:42, sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Our Isotemp water heater provides extremely hot water, to the point it could burn you.  I have looked and don't see anywhere the temperature can be set (like a residential water heater).  Is that high temp normal or does it indicate the thermostat has failed?  It's been like that since we bought the boat.


Duane
Wanderer, SM#477


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Hot Water Heater Failure

Bill Kinney <greatketch@...>
 

There is supposed to be a bypass valve on the outlet of the ISO temp heater. It mixes cold water in to temper the very hot water in the tank. It is an important safety device. When heated with engine water the tank can get up to 180F (82C) that's way too hot for domestic water!

Bill


On Dec 12, 2016, at 14:42, sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Our Isotemp water heater provides extremely hot water, to the point it could burn you.  I have looked and don't see anywhere the temperature can be set (like a residential water heater).  Is that high temp normal or does it indicate the thermostat has failed?  It's been like that since we bought the boat.


Duane
Wanderer, SM#477


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Electrician needed in FLA

Bill Kinney <greatketch@...>
 

I do, (954) 812-2485

On Dec 12, 2016, at 14:05, Alex Ramseyer alexramseyer@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 


Hi Bill, thanks for the tip. Do you have the phone number of Joel?
On Monday, December 12, 2016 4:50 PM, Bill Kinney <greatketch@...> wrote:


Alex,

If you haven’t tried yet, you might want to give Joel Potter a shout.  I’d certainly trust my boat with his recommendation.  I’m not sure how well he knows that area of Florida, but he’s been around a long time and he knows who knows how an Amel works.

Bill Kinney
SM #160, Harmonie
Fort Lauderdale, FL
“Ships and men rot in port."









Re: Hot Water Heater Failure

Ian Park
 

Not sure if they bother with a thermostat since it also heats up from the engine coolant which is also pretty hot!

Ian

Ocean Hobo SN96


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Electrician needed in FLA

Duane Siegfri
 

Alex,

We just had some electrical work done by Lean Electric, they came to us through a recommendation from Joel Potter.  They're located in Fort Lauderdale, but you said "in florida" so I thought I would pass it along.

They were great to work with and couldn't have been more diligent, thorough and helpful.  Contact Damian Lean at 954-325-1573.

Duane
Wanderer, SM#477


Re: Hot Water Heater Failure

Duane Siegfri
 

Our Isotemp water heater provides extremely hot water, to the point it could burn you.  I have looked and don't see anywhere the temperature can be set (like a residential water heater).  Is that high temp normal or does it indicate the thermostat has failed?  It's been like that since we bought the boat.

Duane
Wanderer, SM#477


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Electrician needed in FLA

Alex Ramseyer <alexramseyer@...>
 

Bill, thanks a lot! What you write makes a lot of sense in the situation I'm in. I'll try to fix with an electrician.
Alex
NO STRESS, Amel54, no15


On Monday, December 12, 2016 4:46 PM, "'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:


 
Alex,
I can't help you directly, but maybe some of the following will help.
There is a relay on the engine that activates the engine fan blower when the engine key is turned ON. Sometimes water enters the key switch and shorts it because when the engine was shut down the key was not removed and the cap placed over the key switch. Of course, relays go bad and connections to relays get corroded. But, the fan running may have run down your starting battery. It may be possible that low voltage and low output may have the relay stuck ON.
I want to remind you that leaving failed batteries in a battery bank can cause a severe and dangerous situation because a charger can meltdown the entire bank.
If the bank was in failure mode, the water pump may have been trying to run, but low voltage will impact how the pressure switch operates and low voltage and low output are likely in your situation.
Good luck, but it sounds like you need batteries and an electrician.
Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On Dec 12, 2016 11:19 AM, "Alex Ramseyer alexramseyer@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
Strange things happen on my AMEL54. I can’t track them down to a single cause for all the problems that I currently face. I need help from a good electrician in Florida (currently being in Stuart).
In the night from Friday to Saturday I woke up hearing a noise that came from the water pump (forgot to turn it off and its setting is on high pressure – will change that once I find out how to do). Also, the blower in the engine room was blowing for hours – no obvious reason for that..
On Saturday morning, I couldn’t start the generator or engine.
The boatyard had no 12V battery in spare and brought a charging unit for the housing batteries which worsened the situation. It didn’t load them, but instead heated up two of the housing batteries (I have 4 blocks of 4x6V =24V) Sonnenschein AGM batteries, total of 16 batteries. Will need to replace them anyway as four showed bad results in a load test earlier last week. Seems we are up on 6 bad batteries now.
Who should I ask for help while in Florida?
 
Thanks, Alex
NO STRESS, Stuart FLA
AMEL54, hull no 15



Re: Electrician needed in FLA

Alex Ramseyer <alexramseyer@...>
 


Hi Bill, thanks for the tip. Do you have the phone number of Joel?

On Monday, December 12, 2016 4:50 PM, Bill Kinney wrote:


Alex,

If you haven’t tried yet, you might want to give Joel Potter a shout.  I’d certainly trust my boat with his recommendation.  I’m not sure how well he knows that area of Florida, but he’s been around a long time and he knows who knows how an Amel works.

Bill Kinney
SM #160, Harmonie
Fort Lauderdale, FL
“Ships and men rot in port."









Climma Heater

pepinoamel <no_reply@...>
 

Hi all,


I have encountered a problem with my Climma heater in the rear cabin.  The fan is running on all 3 stages, the air conditioner is working but the heater unit doesn't heat.  After talking to the Climma dealer in Athens, I suspect I need to replace the heating unit.  I believe it can be taken out by undoing the 4 screws that hold down the top steel plate.  Has anybody had this problem and has experience in replacing it?  I hope it can be done by leaving the unit in situ.  Any advice would be appreciated.


Many thanks.


Gerhard Hoffmann

SY Pepino 381

Evia, Greece


Re: Fresh water accumulator

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Hi Paul;

We had the same issue. The source of the problem may be several areas.

First check to make sure the start and stop pressures of the water seem correct. The pump should kick on at about 1.4 bar and should stop at about 2.3 bar. These are approximate and can be changed via the pressure switch mounted on the accumulator tank.

If the turn on and off pressures are correct, then my guess would be that you are losing air pressure in the accumulator tank or the air space in the tank is filled with water, since it is cycling every 3 seconds. The pressure could be lost either from the air inlet connection in the back, the round stainless steel cover in the front or a leak in the accumulator bladder. Try pumping up the air from the back of the tank and see if it helps. My guess is that it won't since you probably have water in the air space in the tank and cannot be pressurized.


All of these are fairly simple to change. The bladder is replaced by removing the front cover, pulling out the existing bladder and putting in a new one, making sure you get a good seal when putting the cover back on. The tire pressure style air inlet in the back has to be piled out from the inside of the tank to replace. Try tightenting the nut in the back first to see if it seals the any potential leaks.

Bottom line I think you will have to pull out the bladder, check for any holes in the bladder, replace with new if necessary and make sure the air inlet in the back of the tank is not leaking.

Let me know how things go and any new info and I may be able to help further.

Mohammad and Aty
AMEL 54 #099
B&B Kokomo


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Fresh water accumulator

Beaute Olivier
 

Hello Paul,

yes the accumulator has a valve, at the opposite side of the hose connection. It's a tyre type valve. It should be inflated at about 0.4 bar (when there is no water pressure in the circuit). Start with this. If the rubber bladder has a hole, you won't be able to keep the air pressure. Same if the stainless steel tank is corroded and shows a hole (you will hear the air whistling).
Then yes, definitely try to clean the small hole water access to the pressure switch rubber diaphragm.

Keep the more tricky pressure switch adjustment as the last work.

Good luck.

Olivier


On Monday, December 12, 2016 4:07 PM, "'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:


 
Bill,
If you watch the pressure gauge, as I have lots of times, you will notice that the water flow remains constant until the pressure drops, and when it drops, the gauge drops fast. This dropping fast should not happen with a properly adjusted and clean pressure switch.
His pressure switch should turn the pump ON before there is a noticeable loss in flow, and before a dramatic drop of pressure on the gauge.  Paul's description of his problem matches a symptom of a pressure switch issue of NOT activating the pump at the correct time.
However, he may also have an accumulator issue. The symptom of an accumulator problem is short cycling of the pump, but short cycling may not only signify an accumulator issue, it can mean that the pressure switch us adjusted wrong, the backflow valve is dirty or not working, or a number if other issues.
Best,
Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On Dec 12, 2016 10:32 AM, "Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
I’m going to respectfully disagree with Bill R on this one…

If you see a rapid fall of pressure before the pump comes on AND the pump short cycles…  I’ll bet on the accumulator.

It is the rapid fall of pressure when you turn a tap on that makes me think accumulator.  That’s not something the pump switch has any say in.

Unfortunately, I can’t help with the details of your accumulator without a model or photo.

Of course your pressure switch might STILL need cleaning…

Bill Kinney
SM #160, Harmonie
Fort Lauderdale, FL
Bahamas—very soon.
“Ships and men rot in port."






On Dec 12, 2016, at 09:13, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups. com> wrote:


Paul,

I am sure that the accumulator tank has a valve, but I think your problem is one of two things:
  1. The pressure switch needs to be removed and the actuator and diaphragm need cleaning.>>>OR
  2. The Pressure switch needs adjusting.
Here is a video of how to adjust a Square D pressure switch:
https://www.youtube.com/watch? v=5WNbxu9ufPs

If the above doesn't help you try this one:
https://www.youtube.com/watch? v=ggn0hyGI2AU

Best,

Bill
BeBe 387
Currently St. John, USVI


On Mon, Dec 12, 2016 at 1:44 PM, sharongbrown@... [ amelyachtowners] <amelyachtown ers@...>wrote:
 
Hi,

When I run a water tap the pressure drops very low until the pump kicks in. The result is that the water pressure from the tap is very up and down. This never used to happen. Looking at the pressure gauge on the accumulator, when water is being used the the pressure drops very quickly and the pump then kicks in. The cycle is probably about 3 seconds. Would any one know what the problem might be? My accumulator is a large stainless cylinder and does not seem to have a valve where one could re-pressure it (unlike the smaller ones I have seen on other boats).

Thanks,
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98






Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Electrician needed in FLA

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Alex,

I can't help you directly, but maybe some of the following will help.

There is a relay on the engine that activates the engine fan blower when the engine key is turned ON. Sometimes water enters the key switch and shorts it because when the engine was shut down the key was not removed and the cap placed over the key switch. Of course, relays go bad and connections to relays get corroded. But, the fan running may have run down your starting battery. It may be possible that low voltage and low output may have the relay stuck ON.

I want to remind you that leaving failed batteries in a battery bank can cause a severe and dangerous situation because a charger can meltdown the entire bank.

If the bank was in failure mode, the water pump may have been trying to run, but low voltage will impact how the pressure switch operates and low voltage and low output are likely in your situation.

Good luck, but it sounds like you need batteries and an electrician.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Dec 12, 2016 11:19 AM, "Alex Ramseyer alexramseyer@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Strange things happen on my AMEL54. I can’t track them down to a single cause for all the problems that I currently face. I need help from a good electrician in Florida (currently being in Stuart).
In the night from Friday to Saturday I woke up hearing a noise that came from the water pump (forgot to turn it off and its setting is on high pressure – will change that once I find out how to do). Also, the blower in the engine room was blowing for hours – no obvious reason for that..
On Saturday morning, I couldn’t start the generator or engine.
The boatyard had no 12V battery in spare and brought a charging unit for the housing batteries which worsened the situation. It didn’t load them, but instead heated up two of the housing batteries (I have 4 blocks of 4x6V =24V) Sonnenschein AGM batteries, total of 16 batteries. Will need to replace them anyway as four showed bad results in a load test earlier last week. Seems we are up on 6 bad batteries now.
Who should I ask for help while in Florida?
 
Thanks, Alex
NO STRESS, Stuart FLA
AMEL54, hull no 15


Electrician needed in FLA

Alex Ramseyer <alexramseyer@...>
 

Strange things happen on my AMEL54. I can’t track them down to a single cause for all the problems that I currently face. I need help from a good electrician in Florida (currently being in Stuart).
In the night from Friday to Saturday I woke up hearing a noise that came from the water pump (forgot to turn it off and its setting is on high pressure – will change that once I find out how to do). Also, the blower in the engine room was blowing for hours – no obvious reason for that..
On Saturday morning, I couldn’t start the generator or engine.
The boatyard had no 12V battery in spare and brought a charging unit for the housing batteries which worsened the situation. It didn’t load them, but instead heated up two of the housing batteries (I have 4 blocks of 4x6V =24V) Sonnenschein AGM batteries, total of 16 batteries. Will need to replace them anyway as four showed bad results in a load test earlier last week. Seems we are up on 6 bad batteries now.
Who should I ask for help while in Florida?
 
Thanks, Alex
NO STRESS, Stuart FLA
AMEL54, hull no 15


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Fresh water accumulator

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Bill,

If you watch the pressure gauge, as I have lots of times, you will notice that the water flow remains constant until the pressure drops, and when it drops, the gauge drops fast. This dropping fast should not happen with a properly adjusted and clean pressure switch.

His pressure switch should turn the pump ON before there is a noticeable loss in flow, and before a dramatic drop of pressure on the gauge.  Paul's description of his problem matches a symptom of a pressure switch issue of NOT activating the pump at the correct time.

However, he may also have an accumulator issue. The symptom of an accumulator problem is short cycling of the pump, but short cycling may not only signify an accumulator issue, it can mean that the pressure switch us adjusted wrong, the backflow valve is dirty or not working, or a number if other issues.

Best,

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Dec 12, 2016 10:32 AM, "Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

I’m going to respectfully disagree with Bill R on this one…


If you see a rapid fall of pressure before the pump comes on AND the pump short cycles…  I’ll bet on the accumulator.

It is the rapid fall of pressure when you turn a tap on that makes me think accumulator.  That’s not something the pump switch has any say in.

Unfortunately, I can’t help with the details of your accumulator without a model or photo.

Of course your pressure switch might STILL need cleaning…

Bill Kinney
SM #160, Harmonie
Fort Lauderdale, FL
Bahamas—very soon.
“Ships and men rot in port."






On Dec 12, 2016, at 09:13, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


Paul,

I am sure that the accumulator tank has a valve, but I think your problem is one of two things:
  1. The pressure switch needs to be removed and the actuator and diaphragm need cleaning.>>>OR
  2. The Pressure switch needs adjusting.
Here is a video of how to adjust a Square D pressure switch:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5WNbxu9ufPs

If the above doesn't help you try this one:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ggn0hyGI2AU

Best,

Bill
BeBe 387
Currently St. John, USVI


On Mon, Dec 12, 2016 at 1:44 PM, sharongbrown@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>wrote:
 

Hi,

When I run a water tap the pressure drops very low until the pump kicks in. The result is that the water pressure from the tap is very up and down. This never used to happen. Looking at the pressure gauge on the accumulator, when water is being used the the pressure drops very quickly and the pump then kicks in. The cycle is probably about 3 seconds. Would any one know what the problem might be? My accumulator is a large stainless cylinder and does not seem to have a valve where one could re-pressure it (unlike the smaller ones I have seen on other boats).

Thanks,
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98