Date   

Air transportation of COPPERCOAT

Donato Valente
 

Hi,
We need to bring some Coppercoat kits in our forthcoming flight from Italy to Central America. I've been told that the material, of course as hold luggage, may suffer for a long trip at low temperatures and get deteriorated.
Does someone can confirm ?
Thank you
Donato 

Amel sm2000 
#468 ocean bird 
Panama 



Inviato da iPhone


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Instal AC / Genset on Santorin

Germain Jean-Pierre <jgermain@...>
 

According to a German marine friend of mine, a Panda is like buying headaches.

No one needs them.


Jean-Pierre Germain
SY Eleuthera, SM 007.



On 20 Oct 2016, at 11:05, Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Good morning,
Are you happy with your Fisher Panda?
All the people I met that own one (including a Fisher Panda dealer) complained about it… mainly once you exceed 1000 hour it stop working or repair are not worth it…
Sincerely, Alexandre

--------------------------------------------
On Thu, 10/20/16, rossienio@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Instal AC / Genset on Santorin
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Thursday, October 20, 2016, 2:45 AM


 









Good morning Trevor. A Fischer Panda genny (4KVA)
is installed in EARENDIL over 10 years. It has direct
cooling (sea water) and this creates some problems. Try to
put one with heat exchanger.









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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Instal AC / Genset on Santorin

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Good morning,
Are you happy with your Fisher Panda?
All the people I met that own one (including a Fisher Panda dealer) complained about it… mainly once you exceed 1000 hour it stop working or repair are not worth it…
Sincerely, Alexandre



--------------------------------------------

On Thu, 10/20/16, rossienio@yahoo.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Instal AC / Genset on Santorin
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, October 20, 2016, 2:45 AM


 









Good morning Trevor. A Fischer Panda genny (4KVA)
is installed in EARENDIL over 10 years. It has direct
cooling (sea water) and this creates some problems. Try to
put one with heat exchanger.









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Re: Instal AC / Genset on Santorin

rossienio@...
 

Sorry, the message was no complete.
We use the AC to the washing machine, oven,battery recharge and all small appliances. Really very convenient.  Good wind.
 EnioRossi
#SN122 EARENDIL
Italy


Re: Instal AC / Genset on Santorin

rossienio@...
 

Good morning Trevor. A Fischer Panda genny (4KVA) is installed in EARENDIL over 10 years. It has direct cooling (sea water) and this creates some problems. Try to put one with heat exchanger.


Re: Instal AC / Genset on Santorin

Ian Park
 

Trevor
No AC but I did consider the genset. In the end the cost and upkeep put me off. I bought a 2000 watt petrol generator instead. It runs the mains battery charger if I need it and any mains voltage I require. The prop alternator and solar panels keeps things going well enough. My reasoning was that I could buy 5 petrol generators for the price of a diesel installation. I can also use it hauled out as it isn't seawater cooled.

However if you do install AC then I would think a genset is a must.

Ian

Ocean Hobo SN96


Instal AC / Genset on Santorin

tfortner1975
 

Hello all,


Has any of the SN owners ever installed an AC and Genset? 

Just looking to see what others have done in the last and possibly gain some lessons learnt by others. 


Thanks heaps. 


Trevor 

Iris, SN027

Langkawi 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] companionway door slot & hurricane Matthew

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Duane,

The water you found does not drain into the engine room. If water gets into the compartment under the companionway, you have to pump it out, or suck it out with a wet vac.

I am going to take a guess that the insulation is wet near the pump on the wall above the gray water bilge...the pump that pumps out the gray water. Go down there and look closely in that area while someone else flushes each of the toilets. There is an anti-siphon loop near that pump. It will get encrusted with salt and spray the wall.

That's my first guess, if this is not the source, check hose clamps on everything in the area. And watch the area with systems running like AC, toilet water pumps, freshwater pump and the watermaker. You could have a high pressure pinhole leak in a watermaker hose.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Oct 19, 2016 4:41 PM, "sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

After hurricane Mathew we noticed that the companionway door slot had a substantial amount of water in it.  I poked around with a wire and was unable to find a drain hole.  Can someone tell me where the drain is?  (Port, STBD, or in the middle?)


This might answer why I have wet sound insulation on the engine room FWD bulkhead, seemingly all the time.  I thought I had found the reason when we noticed the dishwasher (which we never use) had sinkwater backed up into it.  We eliminated the dishwasher.

If there is another reason for the wet sound insulation, please educate me!

Thanks,
Duane
Wanderer, SM#477


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Windlass bolt to deck

eric freedman
 

Bill,

Glad it worked,

You might also invest in the purple cobalt drills from McMaster Carr they are made especially for drilling stainless. They are not inexpensive but I keep them on board when all else fails. I also use the dam technique when drilling stainless and fill it with drilling oil for stainless also from McMaster.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Wednesday, October 19, 2016 3:51 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Windlass bolt to deck

 

 

Eric,

 

Another success for your dam technique!  Thanks for the suggestion.

 

I had a 5mm machine screw that I had almost given up on getting out in one piece. Not only was it a stainless screw corroded into aluminum, but it had also been sheared, and was bent, jamming the threads for that extra measure of difficulty. And it’s not big enough to really lean on without breaking.  Oil, heat, pressure, over and over, and not so much as a wiggle.

 

I didn’t have any “duct seal” so I improvised by making a stiff dough of flour and water for the dam. It wasn’t perfect, but it worked. After twenty-four hours of soaking in a puddle of PB Blaster, the screw backed out easily.  I can see using this often in my future.

 

Bill Kinney

SM #160, Harmonie

Annapolis, MD

“Ships and men rot in port."

 

 

 

 

On Oct 17, 2016, at 22:26, 'sailormon' kimberlite@... melyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 

I have had great success over the years removing stuck and broken bolts in this manner:

I use a clay like substance called here in the USA Duct Seal.

I build up a small dam around the offending bolts and fill the dam with PB blaster for a week. The bolts almost always are loose by that time if not I continue the process eventually they come out.

It is also important to try to turn the bolt in both directions to spread the PB blaster.

When I re install them I use a paste called never seize high temperature. It is especially good on the outhaul shaft.

Works like a charm.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] 
Sent: Monday, October 17, 2016 8:48 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Windlass bolt to deck

 

  

Mike,

Danny's thru-bolt solution sounds good and the drilling, as he points out, will be the key to success. With the good amount of bolt you've got left above deck you may want to try removing it before you go to drilling it out, even though it may shear off. After a good soaking with penetrants (use some acid too, to attack the salts) you may be able to lock two nuts on top to screw it out. If or when that fails you could weld a short bolt of the same diameter to the broken end and use the new bolts hex head to turn. The welding heat may also help break the threads free. If still no joy,you're likely into drilling it out,. Here's a great link to using tread inserts after drilling out the bolt. https://racemagazine.com.au/cars/thread-repair-how-to-fix-broken-bolts-and-stripped-threads

Good luck with it,

Craig Briggs, SN68 Sangaris. 



---In amelyachtowners@..., <simms@...> wrote :

Hi mike. I drilled mine out and put a bolt through. I now have a nut top and bottom
I  lost a lot of sweat and blunted several drills in the process. If you can get a cobalt drill they cut stainless much better than the standard. I didn't have one, as always I was fixing a boat in an exotic location.
Cheers
Danny
SM 299 ocean pearl
Sent from my Vodafone Smart

On Oct 17, 2016 4:33 AM, "'Mike Ondra' mdondra@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

[Attachment(s) from Mike Ondra included below]

As others may have experienced with removing the windlass from the deck, 3 of the 4 bolts were easily removed. The aft starboard bolt is threaded into the deck (no visible nut and probably into a glassed in steel plate). In fact in the bow locker there is rust stain coming through the fiberglass deck and also all along the hawse pipe.

 

In attempting removal the bolt head sheared off leaving a stud about 1” above the deck as pictured above (assuming picture goes with email. I am afraid that continuing to attempt to remove the remaining bole will simply result in shearing off at the deck line. My question is what have others done in this situation?

 

I can envision finding a coupling that could be used but would require an enlargement of the bolt hole in the windlass base thereby weakening it. The stud could be cut off and the windlass moved slightly with new holes for all bolts.

 

Thoughts?

 

Mike Ondra

Aletes SM#240

Rock Hall, MD

 

 

 


companionway door slot & hurricane Matthew

Duane Siegfri
 

After hurricane Mathew we noticed that the companionway door slot had a substantial amount of water in it.  I poked around with a wire and was unable to find a drain hole.  Can someone tell me where the drain is?  (Port, STBD, or in the middle?)

This might answer why I have wet sound insulation on the engine room FWD bulkhead, seemingly all the time.  I thought I had found the reason when we noticed the dishwasher (which we never use) had sinkwater backed up into it.  We eliminated the dishwasher.

If there is another reason for the wet sound insulation, please educate me!

Thanks,
Duane
Wanderer, SM#477


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Windlass bolt to deck

Bill Kinney <greatketch@...>
 

Eric,

Another success for your dam technique!  Thanks for the suggestion.

I had a 5mm machine screw that I had almost given up on getting out in one piece. Not only was it a stainless screw corroded into aluminum, but it had also been sheared, and was bent, jamming the threads for that extra measure of difficulty. And it’s not big enough to really lean on without breaking.  Oil, heat, pressure, over and over, and not so much as a wiggle.

I didn’t have any “duct seal” so I improvised by making a stiff dough of flour and water for the dam. It wasn’t perfect, but it worked. After twenty-four hours of soaking in a puddle of PB Blaster, the screw backed out easily.  I can see using this often in my future.

Bill Kinney
SM #160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD
“Ships and men rot in port."





On Oct 17, 2016, at 22:26, 'sailormon' kimberlite@... melyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


I have had great success over the years removing stuck and broken bolts in this manner:

I use a clay like substance called here in the USA Duct Seal.

I build up a small dam around the offending bolts and fill the dam with PB blaster for a week. The bolts almost always are loose by that time if not I continue the process eventually they come out.

It is also important to try to turn the bolt in both directions to spread the PB blaster.

When I re install them I use a paste called never seize high temperature. It is especially good on the outhaul shaft.

Works like a charm.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] 
Sent: Monday, October 17, 2016 8:48 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Windlass bolt to deck

 

  

Mike,

Danny's thru-bolt solution sounds good and the drilling, as he points out, will be the key to success. With the good amount of bolt you've got left above deck you may want to try removing it before you go to drilling it out, even though it may shear off. After a good soaking with penetrants (use some acid too, to attack the salts) you may be able to lock two nuts on top to screw it out. If or when that fails you could weld a short bolt of the same diameter to the broken end and use the new bolts hex head to turn. The welding heat may also help break the threads free. If still no joy,you're likely into drilling it out,. Here's a great link to using tread inserts after drilling out the bolt. https://racemagazine.com.au/cars/thread-repair-how-to-fix-broken-bolts-and-stripped-threads

Good luck with it,

Craig Briggs, SN68 Sangaris. 



---In amelyachtowners@..., <simms@...> wrote :

Hi mike. I drilled mine out and put a bolt through. I now have a nut top and bottom
I  lost a lot of sweat and blunted several drills in the process. If you can get a cobalt drill they cut stainless much better than the standard. I didn't have one, as always I was fixing a boat in an exotic location.
Cheers
Danny
SM 299 ocean pearl
Sent from my Vodafone Smart

On Oct 17, 2016 4:33 AM, "'Mike Ondra' mdondra@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

[Attachment(s) from Mike Ondra included below]

As others may have experienced with removing the windlass from the deck, 3 of the 4 bolts were easily removed. The aft starboard bolt is threaded into the deck (no visible nut and probably into a glassed in steel plate). In fact in the bow locker there is rust stain coming through the fiberglass deck and also all along the hawse pipe.

 

In attempting removal the bolt head sheared off leaving a stud about 1” above the deck as pictured above (assuming picture goes with email. I am afraid that continuing to attempt to remove the remaining bole will simply result in shearing off at the deck line. My question is what have others done in this situation?

 

I can envision finding a coupling that could be used but would require an enlargement of the bolt hole in the windlass base thereby weakening it. The stud could be cut off and the windlass moved slightly with new holes for all bolts.

 

Thoughts?

 

Mike Ondra

Aletes SM#240

Rock Hall, MD

 




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: flexible rubber coupling

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Bob,
I have not heard that. I have never had a failure in  nearly 8 years. I tighten them to the normal tension for a bolt that size. I am sure, given the loads on this coupling, too loose would allow movement which would lead to wear and failure. Do check the rubber bushes periodically, they do wear out over time.
Danny
SM 299 Ocean Pearl



From: "rossidesigngroup@... [amelyachtowners]"
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Wednesday, 19 October 2016 10:17 PM
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: flexible rubber coupling

 
I have heard that the 4 bolts that essentially clamp the Vetus flexible coupling together--between the flange coming out of the transmission and the flange on the shaft of the C drive--should not be tightened too much.  It has even been posted that tightening them too much will cause failure of the bolts.   Is there a rule of thumb for how tight they should be?  Should the entire bolt and nut rotate by hand?  Should there be slack?  Should they be tightened firmly.  I can't seem to find that on the site or in the Vetus literature.

Bob
KAIMI SM 429



SM2k A/C drain clogged

yahoogroups@...
 

This is a "heads-up" to SM2k owners.


BeBe #387 had the condensation drain clog up for the Salon AC. I did not notice it until about 10 gallons of water was found in the area under the aft settee fridge/freezer, the aft floor compartment under the dining table, the floor compartment in the galley and under the galley sink. Did I say that it is hot and humid in Trinidad?

After using a wet vacuum to remove all of the water, I removed and checked the drain hose from the Climma Compact 9. It was obviously blocked. I connected another piece of hose to the drain hose, then connected that hose to my dinghy pump and blew out the clog. I believe that the AC drain hose runs to a connection below the clothes washer, but not sure, as I did not remove the clothes washer. I then ran vinegar, then water through the drain hose and checked to see if water was visible draining into the gray water sump...it was.

I should have been warned because I have a water alarm beneath the galley sink. It is powered by a 9VDC battery that will beep when the battery is low. I assume that low battery beeping happened while we were off the boat for 6 weeks.

Oh, well, thoroughly cleaning those compartments were on my list of things to do.

Now, our cockpit is full of things, drying out, that were originally stored in those compartments. Most of the wet stuff is dive equipment including BCD, wetsuit, etc. I am happy that this was freshwater and not saltwater.

Best,

Bill
BeBe 387



Re: flexible rubber coupling

rossirossix4
 

I have heard that the 4 bolts that essentially clamp the Vetus flexible coupling together--between the flange coming out of the transmission and the flange on the shaft of the C drive--should not be tightened too much.  It has even been posted that tightening them too much will cause failure of the bolts.   Is there a rule of thumb for how tight they should be?  Should the entire bolt and nut rotate by hand?  Should there be slack?  Should they be tightened firmly.  I can't seem to find that on the site or in the Vetus literature.

Bob
KAIMI SM 429


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Windlass power disconnect?

Stephen Davis
 

Thanks for sharing what looks to be a great improvement to the system on our older Amels. I'll add this one to my project list. 

Steve Davis
Aloha SM72
Cariacou, Grenada

On Oct 18, 2016, at 13:24, Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hello all,


This is a follow up to an older thread about the peculiarities of the windlass power switch on older Super Maramus—or at least on our boat.  Here is a link to the final resolution I implemented on Harmonie.


I mentioned on that page, but I’ll do it here again, this is NOT applicable to newer boats where Joel assures me the switches work as I wished they had on ours.

Bill Kinney
SM #160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD
“Ships and men rot in port."





On Aug 3, 2016, at 10:21, Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

toggle


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bilge / Sump pump

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Pat,
I have wondered about that as a solution too. They are much lower cost. I wonder if they could handle the bits and pieces. If there was an electric version of the manual pump that would be my choice for obvious reasons, ie it is so trouble free.
Danny
SM 299 Ocean Pearl



From: "Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners]"
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Wednesday, 19 October 2016 12:59 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bilge / Sump pump

 
Danny , Yes my manual pump works great. My foot valve does not leak, at least while I am watching ,over a long time it may.I do not have the original pump , I have a Jabsco , which looks inferior to the original pump. I was wondering if anyone had installed a base and a submersible mounted perhaps a foot above the bottom , occassionally using the manual one to pump out the muck.
Thanks,
Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Mon, Oct 17, 2016 2:05 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bilge / Sump pump

 
Hi Pat.
Try taking the suction pipe off the pump. Is it full? If not, fill it and see if it stays full. Of course if its not full the foot valve is leaking. The fill and watch will just confirm this.
I have the original pump. If the foot valve is working ie no leak allowing the water in the suction to go down at all, the pump is always full. I struggled trying to fix things at the pump. Now at last I have a foot valve that works and the pump does too. One thing I did was shorten the suction to get it higher above the sediment that gets into the sump and my problems have been much le ss since. Foot valves don't like bits of stuff stuck it them when they try to close.
However I wish it would self prime like the manual one does. It doesn't even have a foot valve and yet primes perfectly every time and it cheerfully pumps all the muck from the bottom.
Cheers
Danny



From: "Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Tuesday, 18 October 2016 12:34 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bilge / Sump pump

 
Danny, As far as  can determine the foot valve is not leaking, however over a long time it may . I have tried to seal and clamp the hoses as tight as possible. It has always been unreliable .
Thanks,
Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: simms simms@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: Amel Owners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Sun, Oct 16, 2016 2:14 pm
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bilge / Sump pump

 
Hi pat. I battled the bilge pump forever. The key is the foot valve. If you can stop that leaking so the pipe stays full you should have no more trouble. Also ensure there are no leeks in the suction pipe.
Cheers
Danny
SM 299 ocean pearl
Sent from my Vodafone Smart
On Oct 17, 2016 2:44 AM, "sailw32@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
I have a Jabsco sump pump and have found it unreliable . The motor works fine , I have replaced everything and it still fails to pump water from the bilge every time. I have replaced the joker and flap valves and I have a check valve , but I think over time the pump slowly loses its prime and becomes air bound , when not used for  some time. I have thought about buying a new one and hope it works better . I have looked everywhere and cannot find it . I assume all SMs have the same pump , can someone tell me where I can purchase a new one. Has anyone replaced it with something more reliable ?
Thanks,
Pat SM #123





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Windlass power disconnect?

Bill Kinney <greatketch@...>
 

Hello all,

This is a follow up to an older thread about the peculiarities of the windlass power switch on older Super Maramus—or at least on our boat.  Here is a link to the final resolution I implemented on Harmonie.


I mentioned on that page, but I’ll do it here again, this is NOT applicable to newer boats where Joel assures me the switches work as I wished they had on ours.

Bill Kinney
SM #160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD
“Ships and men rot in port."





On Aug 3, 2016, at 10:21, Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

toggle


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bilge / Sump pump

Patrick McAneny
 

Bill, Thanks for your input, and see your point about fouling a submersible . I was thinking that as well and was only wondered out loud if anyone had tried it with success. We stopped by your boat during the show, your boat was open , but you weren't there. We were looking for Joel and the 54 he was showing, sorry we missed you.
Thanks,
Pat SM #123


-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Tue, Oct 18, 2016 11:22 am
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bilge / Sump pump

 
Pat,

Using a submersible for routine service  in the Amel bilge would NOT be a good idea.  What we call our “bilge" really is not a bilge in the traditional sense of the word. It is actually a grey water sump.  Submersible centrifugal pumps would foul and fail in very short order.  Submersible pumps can also cause all kinds of stray current problems that you really don’t want to deal with the consequences of. This would be one of those changes from the original Amel design you should just say “No” to.

It is very hard to find a 24 volt pump that is as suited to this service as the original that Amel selected. If you can find one it would be best.  Really.

But if you can’t, there are good options...

There are only a few kinds of pumps available that will work as a grey water discharge pump on an Amel. Diaphragm pumps (like the original); some kinds of piston pumps; and possibly some flexible impeller pumps.  

I worry that a flexible impeller pump would have trouble with the self-priming at the depth of the well, so I hesitate to recommend them. 

Diaphragm pumps are good at pumping “dirty water”, but you need one that is very well designed to work for very long. Most mass-market marine pumps of this sort are designed for very infrequent service as shower sump pumps, and they are even short lived at that. Amel's pump is first-rate and has a long lasting diaphragm and check valves. There are others, like the line of pumps made by Bosworth that that seem very well made, but I have no experience with, and can’t comment on longevity.

One pump that would work well in this service is the T-series discharge pump by Sealand.  They are robust, long lived, easy to care for, excellent at self-priming, no foot valve would be needed. This is a piston type pump, without the rubber diaphragm.  Maintenance consists of changing check valves about every 6 months. These are made as raw sewage pumps.  If a “chunk” can fit up the hose, they will pump it through. They can handle the “gunk”. BUT… the downside is they have lower capacity than the Amel original, and so will run longer on each discharge cycle.

Sealand also makes an “M” series pump of the same design, except with a bronze body that is much larger and has at least the capacity of the Amel original. Check hose sizes and space for this one to see if it is practical replacement.

I don’t have any interest in Sealand pumps, other than using one daily as a pump for un-macerated raw sewage for ten years with only routine maintenance.  It just worked. 

I have the good fortune that my boat came with a complete working spare of the original pump. Hopefully I can keep the original running for a long time yet.


Bill Kinney
SM #160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD
“Ships and men rot in port."





On Oct 18, 2016, at 07:59, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Danny , Yes my manual pump works great. My foot valve does not leak, at least while I am watching ,over a long time it may.I do not have the original pump , I have a Jabsco , which looks inferior to the original pump. I was wondering if anyone had installed a base and a submersible mounted perhaps a foot above the bottom , occassionally using the manual one to pump out the muck.
Thanks,
Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Mon, Oct 17, 2016 2:05 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bilge / Sump pump

 
Hi Pat.
Try taking the suction pipe off the pump. Is it full? If not, fill it and see if it stays full. Of course if its not full the foot valve is leaking. The fill and watch will just confirm this.
I have the original pump. If the foot valve is working ie no leak allowing the water in the suction to go down at all, the pump is always full. I struggled trying to fix things at the pump. Now at last I have a foot valve that works and the pump does too. One thing I did was shorten the suction to get it higher above the sediment that gets into the sump and my problems have been much le ss since. Foot valves don't like bits of stuff stuck it them when they try to close. 
However I wish it would self prime like the manual one does. It doesn't even have a foot valve and yet primes perfectly every time and it cheerfully pumps all the muck from the bottom.
Cheers
Danny



From: "Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners@... 
Sent: Tuesday, 18 October 2016 12:34 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bilge / Sump pump

 
Danny, As far as  can determine the foot valve is not leaking, however over a long time it may . I have tried to seal and clamp the hoses as tight as possible. It has always been unreliable .
Thanks,
Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: simms simms@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: Amel Owners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Sun, Oct 16, 2016 2:14 pm
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bilge / Sump pump

 
Hi pat. I battled the bilge pump forever. The key is the foot valve. If you can stop that leaking so the pipe stays full you should have no more trouble. Also ensure there are no leeks in the suction pipe.
Cheers
Danny
SM 299 ocean pearl
Sent from my Vodafone Smart
On Oct 17, 2016 2:44 AM, "sailw32@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
I have a Jabsco sump pump and have found it unreliable . The motor works fine , I have replaced everything and it still fails to pump water from the bilge every time. I have replaced the joker and flap valves and I have a check valve , but I think over time the pump slowly loses its prime and becomes air bound , when not used for  some time. I have thought about buying a new one and hope it works better . I have looked everywhere and cannot find it . I assume all SMs have the same pump , can someone tell me where I can purchase a new one. Has anyone replaced it with something more reliable ?
Thanks,
Pat SM #123





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bilge / Sump pump

Germain Jean-Pierre <jgermain@...>
 

Hello Pat,

Our “bilge” pump was replaced 2 years ago by a Vetus 14024B.  Works very well for the last 18 months.

We also bought many “duck bill” valves to keep the water head sealed.  

GL with your solution.

Jean-Pierre Germain,
SY Eleuthera, SM 007



On 18 Oct 2016, at 16:21, Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Pat,


Using a submersible for routine service  in the Amel bilge would NOT be a good idea.  What we call our “bilge" really is not a bilge in the traditional sense of the word. It is actually a grey water sump.  Submersible centrifugal pumps would foul and fail in very short order.  Submersible pumps can also cause all kinds of stray current problems that you really don’t want to deal with the consequences of. This would be one of those changes from the original Amel design you should just say “No” to.

It is very hard to find a 24 volt pump that is as suited to this service as the original that Amel selected. If you can find one it would be best.  Really.

But if you can’t, there are good options...

There are only a few kinds of pumps available that will work as a grey water discharge pump on an Amel. Diaphragm pumps (like the original); some kinds of piston pumps; and possibly some flexible impeller pumps.  

I worry that a flexible impeller pump would have trouble with the self-priming at the depth of the well, so I hesitate to recommend them. 

Diaphragm pumps are good at pumping “dirty water”, but you need one that is very well designed to work for very long. Most mass-market marine pumps of this sort are designed for very infrequent service as shower sump pumps, and they are even short lived at that. Amel's pump is first-rate and has a long lasting diaphragm and check valves. There are others, like the line of pumps made by Bosworth that that seem very well made, but I have no experience with, and can’t comment on longevity.

One pump that would work well in this service is the T-series discharge pump by Sealand.  They are robust, long lived, easy to care for, excellent at self-priming, no foot valve would be needed. This is a piston type pump, without the rubber diaphragm.  Maintenance consists of changing check valves about every 6 months. These are made as raw sewage pumps.  If a “chunk” can fit up the hose, they will pump it through. They can handle the “gunk”. BUT… the downside is they have lower capacity than the Amel original, and so will run longer on each discharge cycle.

Sealand also makes an “M” series pump of the same design, except with a bronze body that is much larger and has at least the capacity of the Amel original. Check hose sizes and space for this one to see if it is practical replacement.

I don’t have any interest in Sealand pumps, other than using one daily as a pump for un-macerated raw sewage for ten years with only routine maintenance.  It just worked. 

I have the good fortune that my boat came with a complete working spare of the original pump. Hopefully I can keep the original running for a long time yet.


Bill Kinney
SM #160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD
“Ships and men rot in port."





On Oct 18, 2016, at 07:59, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Danny , Yes my manual pump works great. My foot valve does not leak, at least while I am watching ,over a long time it may.I do not have the original pump , I have a Jabsco , which looks inferior to the original pump. I was wondering if anyone had installed a base and a submersible mounted perhaps a foot above the bottom , occassionally using the manual one to pump out the muck.
Thanks,
Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Mon, Oct 17, 2016 2:05 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bilge / Sump pump

 
Hi Pat.
Try taking the suction pipe off the pump. Is it full? If not, fill it and see if it stays full. Of course if its not full the foot valve is leaking. The fill and watch will just confirm this.
I have the original pump. If the foot valve is working ie no leak allowing the water in the suction to go down at all, the pump is always full. I struggled trying to fix things at the pump. Now at last I have a foot valve that works and the pump does too. One thing I did was shorten the suction to get it higher above the sediment that gets into the sump and my problems have been much le ss since. Foot valves don't like bits of stuff stuck it them when they try to close. 
However I wish it would self prime like the manual one does. It doesn't even have a foot valve and yet primes perfectly every time and it cheerfully pumps all the muck from the bottom.
Cheers
Danny



From: "Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners@... 
Sent: Tuesday, 18 October 2016 12:34 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bilge / Sump pump

 
Danny, As far as  can determine the foot valve is not leaking, however over a long time it may . I have tried to seal and clamp the hoses as tight as possible. It has always been unreliable .
Thanks,
Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: simms simms@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: Amel Owners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Sun, Oct 16, 2016 2:14 pm
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bilge / Sump pump

 
Hi pat. I battled the bilge pump forever. The key is the foot valve. If you can stop that leaking so the pipe stays full you should have no more trouble. Also ensure there are no leeks in the suction pipe.
Cheers
Danny
SM 299 ocean pearl
Sent from my Vodafone Smart
On Oct 17, 2016 2:44 AM, "sailw32@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
I have a Jabsco sump pump and have found it unreliable . The motor works fine , I have replaced everything and it still fails to pump water from the bilge every time. I have replaced the joker and flap valves and I have a check valve , but I think over time the pump slowly loses its prime and becomes air bound , when not used for  some time. I have thought about buying a new one and hope it works better . I have looked everywhere and cannot find it . I assume all SMs have the same pump , can someone tell me where I can purchase a new one. Has anyone replaced it with something more reliable ?
Thanks,
Pat SM #123








Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bilge / Sump pump

Bill Kinney <greatketch@...>
 

Pat,

Using a submersible for routine service  in the Amel bilge would NOT be a good idea.  What we call our “bilge" really is not a bilge in the traditional sense of the word. It is actually a grey water sump.  Submersible centrifugal pumps would foul and fail in very short order.  Submersible pumps can also cause all kinds of stray current problems that you really don’t want to deal with the consequences of. This would be one of those changes from the original Amel design you should just say “No” to.

It is very hard to find a 24 volt pump that is as suited to this service as the original that Amel selected. If you can find one it would be best.  Really.

But if you can’t, there are good options...

There are only a few kinds of pumps available that will work as a grey water discharge pump on an Amel. Diaphragm pumps (like the original); some kinds of piston pumps; and possibly some flexible impeller pumps.  

I worry that a flexible impeller pump would have trouble with the self-priming at the depth of the well, so I hesitate to recommend them. 

Diaphragm pumps are good at pumping “dirty water”, but you need one that is very well designed to work for very long. Most mass-market marine pumps of this sort are designed for very infrequent service as shower sump pumps, and they are even short lived at that. Amel's pump is first-rate and has a long lasting diaphragm and check valves. There are others, like the line of pumps made by Bosworth that that seem very well made, but I have no experience with, and can’t comment on longevity.

One pump that would work well in this service is the T-series discharge pump by Sealand.  They are robust, long lived, easy to care for, excellent at self-priming, no foot valve would be needed. This is a piston type pump, without the rubber diaphragm.  Maintenance consists of changing check valves about every 6 months. These are made as raw sewage pumps.  If a “chunk” can fit up the hose, they will pump it through. They can handle the “gunk”. BUT… the downside is they have lower capacity than the Amel original, and so will run longer on each discharge cycle.

Sealand also makes an “M” series pump of the same design, except with a bronze body that is much larger and has at least the capacity of the Amel original. Check hose sizes and space for this one to see if it is practical replacement.

I don’t have any interest in Sealand pumps, other than using one daily as a pump for un-macerated raw sewage for ten years with only routine maintenance.  It just worked. 

I have the good fortune that my boat came with a complete working spare of the original pump. Hopefully I can keep the original running for a long time yet.


Bill Kinney
SM #160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD
“Ships and men rot in port."





On Oct 18, 2016, at 07:59, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Danny , Yes my manual pump works great. My foot valve does not leak, at least while I am watching ,over a long time it may.I do not have the original pump , I have a Jabsco , which looks inferior to the original pump. I was wondering if anyone had installed a base and a submersible mounted perhaps a foot above the bottom , occassionally using the manual one to pump out the muck.
Thanks,
Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Mon, Oct 17, 2016 2:05 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bilge / Sump pump

 
Hi Pat.
Try taking the suction pipe off the pump. Is it full? If not, fill it and see if it stays full. Of course if its not full the foot valve is leaking. The fill and watch will just confirm this.
I have the original pump. If the foot valve is working ie no leak allowing the water in the suction to go down at all, the pump is always full. I struggled trying to fix things at the pump. Now at last I have a foot valve that works and the pump does too. One thing I did was shorten the suction to get it higher above the sediment that gets into the sump and my problems have been much le ss since. Foot valves don't like bits of stuff stuck it them when they try to close. 
However I wish it would self prime like the manual one does. It doesn't even have a foot valve and yet primes perfectly every time and it cheerfully pumps all the muck from the bottom.
Cheers
Danny



From: "Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners@... 
Sent: Tuesday, 18 October 2016 12:34 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bilge / Sump pump

 
Danny, As far as  can determine the foot valve is not leaking, however over a long time it may . I have tried to seal and clamp the hoses as tight as possible. It has always been unreliable .
Thanks,
Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: simms simms@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: Amel Owners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Sun, Oct 16, 2016 2:14 pm
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bilge / Sump pump

 
Hi pat. I battled the bilge pump forever. The key is the foot valve. If you can stop that leaking so the pipe stays full you should have no more trouble. Also ensure there are no leeks in the suction pipe.
Cheers
Danny
SM 299 ocean pearl
Sent from my Vodafone Smart
On Oct 17, 2016 2:44 AM, "sailw32@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
I have a Jabsco sump pump and have found it unreliable . The motor works fine , I have replaced everything and it still fails to pump water from the bilge every time. I have replaced the joker and flap valves and I have a check valve , but I think over time the pump slowly loses its prime and becomes air bound , when not used for  some time. I have thought about buying a new one and hope it works better . I have looked everywhere and cannot find it . I assume all SMs have the same pump , can someone tell me where I can purchase a new one. Has anyone replaced it with something more reliable ?
Thanks,
Pat SM #123