1. main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
   Date   
Re: selling an Amel

CW Bill Rouse
 

Paul,

Happy New Year!

Normally, you have two choices: when selling your Amel 
  1. Make a deal with a broker
  2. Sell it yourself
I caution you that selling yourself is difficult, very difficult.

In either case, I would create a web page or a blog with as much information about your boat as possible. The more photos, the better. Google Blogs is a good place to start. You might want to look at our circumnavigation blog at www.svbebe.com, and especially under The Boat tab. Once you have completed either 1 or 2 above, you should join the Yachts For Sale Subgroup and post the information on your boat. Then come back to the main group and announce your posting in the subgroup. Be sure to give readers several options to contact you or the broker.

Good luck.

--
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   
View My Training Calendar
A54 rudder removal

Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown
 

Hi all,

 

I want to remove my rudder to change the stuffing and do a general inspection, but have no clue as to how this is done, so would very much appreciate a point in the right direction.

 

Cheers,

Paul

S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98

 


--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98
Re: selling an Amel

Paul Brown
 

Good day Bill,

I hope this finds you well.

Is it possible for your advise and how to advertise my Amel 55 forsale on this forum, is it acceptable and if so what is the process?

Kind regards, Paul Brown Amel 55 #17


On 20 Sep 2019, at 00:32, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

<image.png>

--
CW Bill Rouse Amel Yacht Owners School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   


On Thu, Sep 19, 2019 at 2:56 AM Rudolf Waldispuehl <Rudolf@...> wrote:
Hi Pat 
You’re absolutely right. It’s not a good Idea. 
I tried have done it also with flex bungee cables. In some place it works well. Not much shock on the cables. Sometimes I had it too loose so the rudder was moving. 
Thanks Danny and Paul for your advice. 
Best regards
Ruedi 
WASABI A54-55

Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of "Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io" <sailw32@...>
Antworten an: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Datum: Mittwoch, 18. September 2019 um 20:21
An: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Free or Tie-on the steering wheel

Ruedi, I would advise against securing the quadrant ,in the event of an emergency a boat should be ready to move immediately . Having to leave the cockpit and go down to the aft stateroom ,lift the bed and untie the quadrant sounds like a bad idea.
I have a small stainless hook secured to the bulkhead about six inches below the wheel ,I use a black rubber bungee with hooks on the ends , I put those hooks over two of  the spokes on the wheel and the bungee under the hook. This allows a very little bit of play, but 99 % a the time no movement at all and we live on a mooring. I can unsecure the wheel in one second if need be.
Good Luck,
Pat
SM Shenanigan


-----Original Message-----
From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...>
To: main <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Sent: Wed, Sep 18, 2019 2:03 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Free or Tie-on the steering wheel

Hi Ruedi, if the wheel is tied tight and there is clonking it is possible your steering cables need adjustment. Easy to do where they are mounted by the quadrant. Just like adjusting cables on a bicycle.
Regards
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl
On 19 September 2019 at 00:19 "jlm@..." <jlm@...> wrote: 

Hi Ruedi,
The best is to fix it, but if you fix it it MUST be without any gap (possibility that the rude can move) ... else do not fix it ...
JLMERTZ
CottonBay

Le 18/09/2019 à 11:52, Rudolf Waldispuehl a écrit : 
Dear Amel'ias

I’m curious about experience with tie on the steering wheel and maybe someone has a proven technical answer. 
When I’m on Anchor or in a Marina I always fix/tie the steering wheel in the cockpit with a rope. After this summer in many anchorages with some swell I was not sure anymore if these is the right solution. 
 
Always when small waves hitting the rudder the wheel tried to turn in one or other direction and there is a noticeable noise (little dong) on the cables. 
When I was loosing the rope then the noise was notable under the aft bed because the Autopilot linear drive gear is moving and made noise.   
I’m now quite unsecure which option is the better, -  fix the wheel or let it move around?  Both ways are working on either AP Linear drive and/or steering cables. 
 
Would be the best option to make a fix/tie on the rudder quadrant to stop moving? Has someone done it? 
What is your experience and long-term observations? 
 
Thanks for your thought and best regards
Ruedi
SY-WASABI 
AMEL 54#55

Garanti sans virus. www.avast.com

 

 
Re: Repairing holes in aft cabin trunk / deck

James Cromie
 

Correction:  I like to use “waxless”... not “way less” gelcoat!

Color matching is not difficult if you have patience.  The texturing might be best accomplished by someone being paid $75//hr.   
I agree with removing the life raft personally - For reasons mentioned.  
I prefer to keep my life raft in the cockpit port lazarette.  This is the most protected place to remove it, though requires a bit of strength for raising it out which is the main drawback... but for my wife or myself,  it is not an issue.  Having it out on the life rail or deck leaves it exposed to tons of water washing over your boat, and exposes crew to the greater risk of being swept off.   Also, I imagine  the lifespan of the life raft is likely to be longer in a place protected from the elements.   

I think having the deck as clear as possible improves overall safety and security.  

James
Sv Soteria 


On Jan 15, 2020, at 6:11 PM, James Cromie via Groups.Io <jamescromie@...> wrote:

Congratulations Elise and Kevin. Looks like a nice boat you’ve got yourselves!  For the reason you’ve described, I strive to avoid putting any new holes in the boat because of the risk of eventual water intrusion.  Amels are incredibly dry yachts in their original design.  
I had a solar arch made to replace smaller davits already in place on the stern.  These left holes in the stern that communicated with the stern lazarette.  To fill the holes, I redrilled them and chamfered inside and outside.  After carefully cleaning with acetone, I filled the holes with West System epoxy, using the UV and water protectant high density filler.  This filler allows you to achieve a peanut butter consistency.  Using a syringe, it can be inserted into the holes which have already been masked with tape.  The epoxy is easily workable and a putty knife is used to trim away any excess.  Before fully curing, remove tape.  
Lightly sand when fully cured and re apply gel coat to the areas.  I like to use way less gelcoat so that I can apply multiple coats to count our it better. You can feather it and color match by trial and error and it works out well.   Getting the same surface texture is difficult and I don’t have any tricks on that yet!    I would not keep hardware in place because it will eventually leak and corrosion will eventually set in.  

Best,
James
Sv Soteria #347
Las perlas, Panama 


On Jan 14, 2020, at 5:11 PM, Kevin Fox via Groups.Io <foxkm@...> wrote:

Greetings All.  My family and I are excited to be the new owners of Rascal.  I've been following this forum for over a year and am impressed by, and appreciative of, all the knowledge that Amel owners are willing to share.  I hope to get up to speed quickly and do my part to help others.

Rascal has a life raft mounted in a rack on the cabin trunk immediately aft of the mizzen mast. We’re not big fans of this location and plan to move it. One of the issues is that there are leaks around some of the bolts. There are twelve total, in groups of three. We can see the screw heads in the aft head and in the passageway just outside the aft head.
 
If we remove the rack we’ll need to fill the holes. I’ve seen information on how to clean out holes in fiberglass decks, including trying to remove some of the coring around the hole if wet, in preparation for filling them with thickened epoxy. Are there any tricks or special procedures for this type of repair on an Amel?
 
I don’t think we’ll be able to access the bottom of the fiberglass from inside the boat, so I’m guessing that we’ll need to use high viscosity (well-thickened) epoxy. Am I correct that there is space between the cabin ceiling and the fiberglass?
 
Another approach might be to put new, low-profile bolts in these holes and re-bed them well. Replacement bolts might also solve the issue of what to do with the holes left in the cabin ceiling. 
 
Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Thank you!

<IMG_3549.JPG>

<IMG_3550.JPG>

<IMG_1190.jpg>

----
Kevin and Elise Fox
SM2k #404 Rascal
Charleston, SC

Re: Repairing holes in aft cabin trunk / deck

James Cromie
 

Congratulations Elise and Kevin. Looks like a nice boat you’ve got yourselves!  For the reason you’ve described, I strive to avoid putting any new holes in the boat because of the risk of eventual water intrusion.  Amels are incredibly dry yachts in their original design.  
I had a solar arch made to replace smaller davits already in place on the stern.  These left holes in the stern that communicated with the stern lazarette.  To fill the holes, I redrilled them and chamfered inside and outside.  After carefully cleaning with acetone, I filled the holes with West System epoxy, using the UV and water protectant high density filler.  This filler allows you to achieve a peanut butter consistency.  Using a syringe, it can be inserted into the holes which have already been masked with tape.  The epoxy is easily workable and a putty knife is used to trim away any excess.  Before fully curing, remove tape.  
Lightly sand when fully cured and re apply gel coat to the areas.  I like to use way less gelcoat so that I can apply multiple coats to count our it better. You can feather it and color match by trial and error and it works out well.   Getting the same surface texture is difficult and I don’t have any tricks on that yet!    I would not keep hardware in place because it will eventually leak and corrosion will eventually set in.  

Best,
James
Sv Soteria #347
Las perlas, Panama 


On Jan 14, 2020, at 5:11 PM, Kevin Fox via Groups.Io <foxkm@...> wrote:

Greetings All.  My family and I are excited to be the new owners of Rascal.  I've been following this forum for over a year and am impressed by, and appreciative of, all the knowledge that Amel owners are willing to share.  I hope to get up to speed quickly and do my part to help others.

Rascal has a life raft mounted in a rack on the cabin trunk immediately aft of the mizzen mast. We’re not big fans of this location and plan to move it. One of the issues is that there are leaks around some of the bolts. There are twelve total, in groups of three. We can see the screw heads in the aft head and in the passageway just outside the aft head.
 
If we remove the rack we’ll need to fill the holes. I’ve seen information on how to clean out holes in fiberglass decks, including trying to remove some of the coring around the hole if wet, in preparation for filling them with thickened epoxy. Are there any tricks or special procedures for this type of repair on an Amel?
 
I don’t think we’ll be able to access the bottom of the fiberglass from inside the boat, so I’m guessing that we’ll need to use high viscosity (well-thickened) epoxy. Am I correct that there is space between the cabin ceiling and the fiberglass?
 
Another approach might be to put new, low-profile bolts in these holes and re-bed them well. Replacement bolts might also solve the issue of what to do with the holes left in the cabin ceiling. 
 
Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Thank you!

<IMG_3549.JPG>

<IMG_3550.JPG>

<IMG_1190.jpg>

----
Kevin and Elise Fox
SM2k #404 Rascal
Charleston, SC

Re: A54 fridge circulation pump

Scott SV Tengah
 

On Frigoboat systems with multiple compressors, the pump interface is used. This also divides 24v to 12v to power the fridges. It has been explained to me that Frigoboat sells you a 24v pump and runs it at 12v. Theoretically it should be continuous duty at that point as it's running slower and cooler. This is not the case for the vast majority of us, it seems. It would be better if it coordinated compressor run times, but alas that's not the case.

Soraya - I purchased the Marco pump as my FIFTH one onboard. I still have 3 total Frigoboat pumps remaining so I will use all of those and then switch over to the Marco. Is the noise annoying? As noted, mine runs 80% duty cycle or so.

Stefan wrote on another post (https://amelyachtowners.groups.io/g/main/topic/pump/69698758?p=,,,20,0,0,0::recentpostdate%2Fsticky,,,20,2,0,69698758) that he's used a magnetic pump that lasted a really long time. I looked at the PDF and it seems Y-1638-MM would work great if you set it to run about 4-6 liters per minute.
https://www.speck.de/fileadmin/user_upload/files/data_sheets/en/my-3-mm.pdf
It seems to draw very little power at that level and it appears to have a large head capacity. Someone smarter than me needs to figure out if that means it can self prime and push water through the circuit connecting all 3 compressors? It's 24v, which would mean you'd probably have to either just run it on the 12v that comes out of the Frigoboat pump interface or install a relay into the system and run it on 24v. Any engineer want to give an opinion on this solution?

FYI Frigoboat specifically states the water hoses should run parallel from the pump to the individual compressors and our A54 has them run sequentially. That probably just means after the first fridge, each subsequent fridge is getting slightly warmer water.

I believe the new Amels have keel cooled fridges. I believe that's a better solution but I try not to intentionally put more holes in the hull, so I won't be retrofitting in the middle of our circumnavigation!

Finally, my A54 is plumbed to use fresh water to cool the fridges. We have no growth issues and pumps still last 6 months. So that won't solve the short pump life problem. I tend to agree that the insulation is crap. On the under settee freezer, the items that are far from the evaporator "cage" often thaw out, even with the freezer on max. I have added supplemental sealing on the lid, which helps, but the problem still exists.

The FW water tank temp never gets noticeably warmer but we also never drop below 150 liters. As you know, it's in the keel, but GRP is not a fantastic thermal conductor, so there is some the temp will always be a bit higher than surrounding water, imo. There has been some discussion of lead solder on the copper piping. I am not sure if this is true or not, but to be safe we only cook and drink water from the  Seagull filter. I have used their portable version while backcountry camping and once found myself at a lake full of cow poop. We had no choice but to use the water and I am still alive today. In any event, most brass and copper fittings in homes have lead in them. 

--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com
Re: Repairing holes in aft cabin trunk / deck

Brian Gifford
 

Hi Kevin, 
If you decide to remove the rack from the boat and need someone to do the gelcoat in the Charleston area I would recommend to get in touch with Luke at Carolina Custom Restorations. I have seen a bunch of his work and he does top notch stuff and her is a really nice guy too. 
I like your idea of using low profile bolts to fill the holes, I would say to use butyl tape to seal the heads to the deck since the stuff is so effective. Just be sure not to let the heads move if you use the butyl, movement of the head will break the seal. 
Re: Looks like Amel hit one out of the box.

Arno Luijten
 

It is good to hear Amel chose the right way forward for evolving their yachts. Just saw the Yachting World Youtube about the Amel 60, it seems again a very well put together boat and I’m sure it will outsell the 64.
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder as they say. So if people on this forum think Amel is going into the wrong direction with their designs, from their point of view they are right. The success of Amel is important to all of us, as it also enables them to provide after-sales service to their older boats. With the complexity of our boats this is very important. So I really hope the waiting-list for the 60 will be just als long as for the 50 and we can happily keep ordering spare parts!
For me I’m really happy with the design of our trusty 54 and stil gets me more exited then the design of the 50. But I’m not a potential buyer for a new 50-60 foot yacht so even if Amel’s choices are not the one I would like to see, reality is they make better choices then I would in their place.

Just my 2 cents....

Regards,
Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121
Re: Repairing holes in aft cabin trunk / deck

Stephen Davis
 

Hi Kevin,

Congratulations on your new boat. I’ve spent a lot of time on Rascal, and she is a very good boat. With regards to the life raft cradle behind the mizzenmast, I would remove it. With the life raft in the current position, you would no t be able to rig and use the emergency tiller should the need ever arise.

Unless you are very good with fiberglass and gel coat work, I’d hire someone who is to fill the holes. It is not going to be easy to match the repair to the current deck, and it will require someone talented in this type of work to make that happen.

Best of luck with your new boat.

Steve Davis
Aloha SM72
Hawaii
Re: New companionway lock source

Nicolas Klene
 

Hi Arlo 
to me this key looks pretty standard , Kis is just a high street key cutter , like many other . Maybe another picture with the green cover off might help and revel a reference ! 
--
Nicolas Klene
DarNico
SM2K # 471
In Marseille
Re: Mango Bonding

Charles Bell
 

Hello Ario,

Could you please take a 4K picture of your Mango wiring diagram and post it online?


Thank you,

Charles 
SV Jupiter
Mango Hull #29
Re: Looks like Amel hit one out of the box.

Paul Villinski
 

I'll take your A55 but you'll have to loan me the money, in perpetuity! Actually, what I "need" is a post-1985 Maramu or a Santorin -- just in case you have one of those, too.
Re: Looks like Amel hit one out of the box.

Theo s/v Paloma
 

I love my Amel 50.
It is a great combination of modern and the Amel philosophy. It is a modern "real" Amel...
I am glad that the company made the right decisions and is doing well.

Theo
s/v Paloma
Amel 50 #18
Re: Looks like Amel hit one out of the box.

Jose Alegria
 

Ok

If someone needs a real Amel I have one of the best A55 built, hull n.03- 2012- demo boat, full extras in pristine conditions to sale. 
Ready to go anyhere
750K
Maybe a more resilient boat than 50
Kindest regards.



Jose Alegria
Amel55 #03-MERIT
+351918663037
Josealegr@...



No dia 15/01/2020, às 01:26, eric freedman <kimberlite@...> escreveu:



 

I hear that

 

” Amel 50’s are selling out. I just sold one last month and it is not going to deliver until October 2021. Amel is requiring a €300,000 deposit to claim a production slot. The schedule for the next available  Amel 50 production slot is September 2021. There are also two boats that will be available in June 2021 and November 2021 that will be used as demo/boat show displays which can be purchased at a slight discount.”

 

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376
Re: A54 fridge circulation pump

Matt Salatino
 

On our previous boat, we had fresh water from the water tanks, cooling two compressors for the fridge and deep freeze. It worked perfectly for 18 years, with no corrosion to the systems. It did not warm the water excessively, as the tanks are against the hull, and cooled by sea water. It certainly is something to consider.

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Jan 15, 2020, at 5:15 AM, ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington@...> wrote:

Hello all,

It seams that the gentle flow of the fridge cooling circuit running 80% of the time is the perfect environment for barnacle growth. This includes the raw water strainer as it too will have that trickle running through it. This explains the terrible fouling and no smell.

On my last boat I had a Frigoboat compressor.  It had a little heat exchanger for the hot refrigerant to run through which is through bolted onto the sea side of the hull and very streamlined.  There was therefore no need to run any cooling pump. The compressor had a fan as well, so with the “keel cooler” set up, (it was an option) one just disconnects the fan. When the boat is ashore one simply connects the fan back until the boat is launched. I owned the boat for over ten years and to be frank the system was better than what we have now. It never once gave me any cause for concern.  It was a modest fridge with only a small ice compartment, but the keel cooler is sized to fit the fridge size.

I reckon that it would be possible to do the same on the Amel. Each fridge unit would require its own keel cooler. One could do away with the sea water circuit altogether. It would require vacuuming the refrigerant, cutting the hot side copper pipe, soldering it to the keel cooler in line then re-vacuuming and re charging the system. I am not 100% sure if the existing compressors would support this but I do not see why not.

I am not proposing to do this at the moment, after all I still have three spare pumps, but it is food for thought.

Another possibility is to run the fridge cooling system with freshwater from the tank and back into the tank. I wander if the tank water would warm up, or weather it would lose the heat to the sea through the GRP hull. The tank water rests pretty much at the same temperature of the sea water. The problem is that I would not want to risk contaminating the tank water if there was a leak of refrigerant and you still have this pump running nearly the whole time.

Just some thoughts. 

I think if one of my fridge compressors were to fail I would be tempted to buy the Frigoboat compressor with keel cooler as replacement.

Nick

Amelia AML 54-019
Kilada Greece.


On 14 Jan 2020, at 23:59, Teun BAAS <teun@...> wrote:

Arno,
 
I am confused – I know that on the controller it mentions 12/24 volt but with the 3 Flojet pumps I purchased over the last year or so I always made sure they were 24 volt units. Do I need to have a 12 volt unit?
 
Best Regards Teun
SV AMELIT  A54  #128
 
On the hard in COOMERA (near BRISBANE) QLD AUSTRALIA
January 14, 2020 16:58:49
 
USA cell: +1 832 477 8842
AUSTRALIA cell: +61 5951 8909
 
You can follow AMELIT via this link: https://forecast.predictwind.com/tracking/display/AMELIT
 
 
 
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Arno Luijten via Groups.Io
Sent: Sunday, January 12, 2020 05:11
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] A54 fridge circulation pump
 
Hi Scott,

Great to hear I’m not the only one that has trouble with these pumps. I asked Flojet about this and they simply do not carry a brushless variant of this pump. I did have a look at a few other pumps that look very nice on paper (magnetic-drive and brushless). The two I tested (both centrifugal) did not supply enough pressure to overcome the resistance in the hoses/pipes. I now have al lot of pumps to do other stuff with :-(

Currently running a 12V/1.5A Flojet Quiet Quad but I’m sure it will die within a year despite the claim to be for continuous duty. It does stay cooler then the “official” Frigoboat pump that is actually a 24V shower-pump running at 12V. The pressure of the 12V model is adequate.

So I’m also interested in a more resilient solution to this problem.  
Re: Skarki Headspace / Celing Height

MATTHIAS GRAWE
 

Thanks Mark, this is very helpful!
High enough for me :-)
Matthias
Re: Repairing holes in aft cabin trunk / deck

Mark Erdos
 

Congrats on your new Amel. I looked at the listing for Rascal and it appeared to be a fine boat.

 

One of the best pieces of advice given to me at the time we purchased our boat was not to change anything for a year. If the bolts are leaking, I would just use a bedding compound to fix the leak but leave the raft setup the way it is, for now.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Vista Mar, Panama

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Kevin Fox via Groups.Io
Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 6:12 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Repairing holes in aft cabin trunk / deck

 

Greetings All.  My family and I are excited to be the new owners of Rascal.  I've been following this forum for over a year and am impressed by, and appreciative of, all the knowledge that Amel owners are willing to share.  I hope to get up to speed quickly and do my part to help others.

Rascal has a life raft mounted in a rack on the cabin trunk immediately aft of the mizzen mast. We’re not big fans of this location and plan to move it. One of the issues is that there are leaks around some of the bolts. There are twelve total, in groups of three. We can see the screw heads in the aft head and in the passageway just outside the aft head.

 

If we remove the rack we’ll need to fill the holes. I’ve seen information on how to clean out holes in fiberglass decks, including trying to remove some of the coring around the hole if wet, in preparation for filling them with thickened epoxy. Are there any tricks or special procedures for this type of repair on an Amel?

 

I don’t think we’ll be able to access the bottom of the fiberglass from inside the boat, so I’m guessing that we’ll need to use high viscosity (well-thickened) epoxy. Am I correct that there is space between the cabin ceiling and the fiberglass?

 

Another approach might be to put new, low-profile bolts in these holes and re-bed them well. Replacement bolts might also solve the issue of what to do with the holes left in the cabin ceiling. 

 

Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Thank you!








----
Kevin and Elise Fox
SM2k #404 Rascal
Charleston, SC

Re: Skarki Headspace / Celing Height

marklesparkle59
 

Hi Matthias,
I have just measured Salon height. At the bottom of the companionway 1905mm.
Galley 1895mm
At the forward bulkhead 1855mm.
Mark Porter
Sea Hobo
Sharki 96




Sent from my Samsung device


-------- Original message --------
From: "MATTHIAS GRAWE via Groups.Io" <matthias.grawe@...>
Date: 14/01/2020 10:58 (GMT+00:00)
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Skarki Headspace / Celing Height

Hello,
as a potential owner of a Sharki from 1982 I am interested in knowing:
1. salon headspace (ceiling height)
2. dimension of mattress (sleeping surface) in rear cabin when maximized.
Cannot find any dimensional drawings in the internet.
Can anybody help? Thank you
Best
Matthias

Re: Skarki Headspace / Celing Height

Dom
 


Hi,
Here are the dimensions that I noted for the mattresses
And a plan of the Sharki

PDF
Côtes literie.pdf
PDF
SARKI.pdf

Re: A54 fridge circulation pump

ngtnewington Newington
 

Hello all,

It seams that the gentle flow of the fridge cooling circuit running 80% of the time is the perfect environment for barnacle growth. This includes the raw water strainer as it too will have that trickle running through it. This explains the terrible fouling and no smell.

On my last boat I had a Frigoboat compressor.  It had a little heat exchanger for the hot refrigerant to run through which is through bolted onto the sea side of the hull and very streamlined.  There was therefore no need to run any cooling pump. The compressor had a fan as well, so with the “keel cooler” set up, (it was an option) one just disconnects the fan. When the boat is ashore one simply connects the fan back until the boat is launched. I owned the boat for over ten years and to be frank the system was better than what we have now. It never once gave me any cause for concern.  It was a modest fridge with only a small ice compartment, but the keel cooler is sized to fit the fridge size.

I reckon that it would be possible to do the same on the Amel. Each fridge unit would require its own keel cooler. One could do away with the sea water circuit altogether. It would require vacuuming the refrigerant, cutting the hot side copper pipe, soldering it to the keel cooler in line then re-vacuuming and re charging the system. I am not 100% sure if the existing compressors would support this but I do not see why not.

I am not proposing to do this at the moment, after all I still have three spare pumps, but it is food for thought.

Another possibility is to run the fridge cooling system with freshwater from the tank and back into the tank. I wander if the tank water would warm up, or weather it would lose the heat to the sea through the GRP hull. The tank water rests pretty much at the same temperature of the sea water. The problem is that I would not want to risk contaminating the tank water if there was a leak of refrigerant and you still have this pump running nearly the whole time.

Just some thoughts. 

I think if one of my fridge compressors were to fail I would be tempted to buy the Frigoboat compressor with keel cooler as replacement.

Nick

Amelia AML 54-019
Kilada Greece.


On 14 Jan 2020, at 23:59, Teun BAAS <teun@...> wrote:

Arno,
 
I am confused – I know that on the controller it mentions 12/24 volt but with the 3 Flojet pumps I purchased over the last year or so I always made sure they were 24 volt units. Do I need to have a 12 volt unit?
 
Best Regards Teun
SV AMELIT  A54  #128
 
On the hard in COOMERA (near BRISBANE) QLD AUSTRALIA
January 14, 2020 16:58:49
 
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You can follow AMELIT via this link: https://forecast.predictwind.com/tracking/display/AMELIT
 
 
 
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Arno Luijten via Groups.Io
Sent: Sunday, January 12, 2020 05:11
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] A54 fridge circulation pump
 
Hi Scott,

Great to hear I’m not the only one that has trouble with these pumps. I asked Flojet about this and they simply do not carry a brushless variant of this pump. I did have a look at a few other pumps that look very nice on paper (magnetic-drive and brushless). The two I tested (both centrifugal) did not supply enough pressure to overcome the resistance in the hoses/pipes. I now have al lot of pumps to do other stuff with :-(

Currently running a 12V/1.5A Flojet Quiet Quad but I’m sure it will die within a year despite the claim to be for continuous duty. It does stay cooler then the “official” Frigoboat pump that is actually a 24V shower-pump running at 12V. The pressure of the 12V model is adequate.

So I’m also interested in a more resilient solution to this problem.