Re: A question to the hive mind re Amel 54 (Sleipner side power) Bow thruster capacitor please.
Scott SV Tengah
Try Brad at Imtra, the distributor in the US. They've been pretty helpful and responsive.
Norwegians (Sleipner) may still be on summer holiday. :) -- Scott 2007 A54 #69 SV Tengah http://www.svtengah.com
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Re: Wifi extenders and the bonding system
Scott SV Tengah
Arno,
I got it to work only with the help of my friend. I literally couldn't connect to the Mikrotik Wap AC to even try to set it up for a year! Having a Mac doesn't help. I believe your Badboy is the same as my old Wirie Pro - a Bullet with a custom firmware, which you access through a webpage. Same with the Mikrotik, but it's just far more complicated. To be clear, I've never used a Mikrotik for the WAN portion of my network. In other words, it was always for the internal wifi network. For that it's been great. My internal network is fast enough that I have one hard drive shared between multiple computers over wifi and data transfer is almost as fast as connecting the hard drive by cable directly. For connecting to remote access points (cafe/restaurant/marina/etc), I first used the Bullet/Wirie, which is exactly what you have. Then I used the Alfa Tube, which had a much lower noise floor. For whatever reason, I had a big problem with noise floor on the Bullet. As you probably know, it's not just signal strength, but it's signal strength relative to the noise floor, which determines how fast/responsive your internet will be. Moreover, the results you receive are dependent on another multitude of factors, so just isolating receiver sensitivity and transmission power to compare different setups, if all else is not equal, is not very useful. If the airwaves are congested where you are, the strongest received signal, defined by signal-to-noise ratio, won't help you too much. The nature of 2.4ghz transmissions is that many of the channels OVERLAP and some routers double their radio bandwidth to 40mhz in an effort to increase throughput, but that results in a higher likelihood of overlapping. So if you have someone else on an overlapping channel, you will have slowdowns. Further, the remote access point's connection to the internet is another factor. You can have the strongest, best receiver in the world but if your marina/cafe's access point has a dial up connection, the best speed you will ever get is dial up. Finally, be careful cranking up transmission power. First off, it only helps with uploading. Secondly, Badboy's claimed 36db must include the gain from the antenna. Otherwise, they're violating max power limits from the FCC and I believe they're based in the US. Thirdly, my networking engineer friend explained to me that many wifi routers are smart. If your boat is sending a very powerful signal out, the receiving router interprets that as you being something like a smartphone that is very close to that router. To save power for both the router and the "smartphone client", the router will then lower its own output power. Through experimenting, I find that if I encounter one of those smart routers, turning DOWN my transmission power will increase my internet speed. Finally, high transmission power will increase the likelihood for interference for other users - bad karma and also another reason why smart routers, in an attempt to be good citizens, will decrease their output power in response to a high power received signal. This wifi stuff is almost as complicated as maintaining a boat! Almost. -- Scott 2007 A54 #69 SV Tengah http://www.svtengah.com
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Re: A question to the hive mind re Amel 54 (Sleipner side power) Bow thruster capacitor please.
Ryan Meador
Hi Porter, The capacitor should be labeled. On one side of the disc, I expect you'll see some tiny numbers. If you can write them down and/or get a clear photo, that would help a lot for identifying it. Failing that, you'll have to measure it with a meter (looks impossible due to the damage) or get the specifications from the manufacturer. I concur with the tech -- it is a ceramic capacitor, most likely to reduce electrical/radio interference. I'd prefer not to speculate on whether it's safe to operate the thruster without it. Ryan and Kelly
SM 233 Iteration Boston, MA, USA
On Fri, Aug 21, 2020 at 1:02 PM Porter McRoberts via groups.io <portermcroberts=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote: Yesterday while cleaning contactor and brushes and then reassembling the bow thruster, accidentally we tore this small wire and capacitor vs resistor which connected between the brushes Set “A” and Set “B” of the four sets A-D. It appears to be a capacitor of some kind, theorized by the guy in the electronics shop to offer some sort of harmonic filtering and reduction of radio interference, and thus non-essential to the function of the BT. It is a Sleipner “side power” bow thruster. No response yet from Sleipner.
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A question to the hive mind re Amel 54 (Sleipner side power) Bow thruster capacitor please.
Porter McRoberts
Yesterday while cleaning contactor and brushes and then reassembling the bow thruster, accidentally we tore this small wire and capacitor vs resistor which connected between the brushes Set “A” and Set “B” of the four sets A-D. It appears to be a capacitor of some kind, theorized by the guy in the electronics shop to offer some sort of harmonic filtering and reduction of radio interference, and thus non-essential to the function of the BT. It is a Sleipner “side power” bow thruster. No response yet from Sleipner.
The electronics guy has a host of small capacitors, and it would be easy to wire one up, but which size? Might anyone 1) know the size?, 2) be able to confirm the non-essential nature of this small device? 3) have any suggestions in the absence of intel from Sleipner? Thank you very much! Porter McRoberts A54-152. Tahiti.
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Re: Furling main on Amel 60
Hi Bill,
Not surprised about the change to ProFurl. Reckmann may be good stuff but the price is eye-watering. If you look closely at the mainsail you will notice an block in the mainsail and a line going to the end of the boom. That seems the way most Selden masts are setup, but they use a winch for the outhaul. Regards, Arno Luijten SV Luna, A54-121
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Re: Furling main on Amel 60
Arno, I did not notice that but did notice the use of electric ProFurl furlers rather than Reckmann furlers on the genoa and staysail. Bill
On Fri, Aug 21, 2020 at 9:42 AM Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote: Dear forum,
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Re: Ladder
james Hosford
Ah thanks pictures I saw I thought it was fiberglass or fiberglass encapsulated wood. Oh well it was an idea
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
On Aug 21, 2020, at 9:07 AM, Mark McGovern <mfmcgovern@...> wrote:
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Furling main on Amel 60
Dear forum,
Did anyone have a close look at the furling system on the new Amel 60 for the main sail. From what I can see they changed the way this works but the pictures are not very detailed. More specifically the way the outhaul works seems to have changed as the motor seems to have disappeared from the boom. Regards, Arno Luijten SV Luna, A54-121
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Re: Ladder
Mark McGovern
James, Assuming you have the OEM Amel bumper, the bumper would likely just rip off the back of the boat if you tried that. It's made from some sort of foam rubber and held in place by just two M8 bolts with some fender washers. The bolts are meant to hold up the weight of the bumper and keep it in place in a compression load (bumping into a dock, etc.). They are not meant to hold the weight of a ladder and person pulling down on the bumper. -- Mark McGovern SM #440 Cara Deale, MD USA
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Re: Cook top dimensions
Gerhard Mueller
Responding to Gerhard, yours seems a brilliant solution but from the photo I cannot understand if the system is gimballing or you are using it only in the fixed positionPaolo Since I don't have 220 Volt on board I can use the cooker only in the harbor. -- Gerhard Mueller Amel Sharki #60 Currently Kalamata, Greece
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Re: Cook top dimensions
Bryce Procter
Hi Paolo,
Thanks and apologies for the slow reply. The cooktop I am looking at is the Miele KM 7200 FR with dimensions of 574mm W, 504mm D and 48mm H.
Looks like this should fit well. Not cheap but quality is remembered long after price is forgotten. If I ever get back to my boat I'll post some photos :)
Cheers
Bryce
SM #467
On Mon, Aug 10, 2020 at 4:58 PM +0800, "PAOLO CUNEO" <pc43ge@...> wrote:
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Ladder
james Hosford
Anyone modify their back step to accept the stock ladder in a down position. Send like it would be easy enough to add a socket to the bumper and make it a lot easier to get in and out with gear on.
Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Bow-thruster repair at anchor
Germain Jean-Pierre
Hello Charlie,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
If I’m not mistaken, the A50 has a different BT. I believe it is made by Sleipner. Congratulations on your 50. Jean-Pierre Germain, SY Eleuthera, SM007, NZ
On 21/08/2020, at 10:26 AM, Charlie Kopp <ckopp@...> wrote:
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Re: Bow-thruster repair at anchor
Thank you so much for this, Paul. I haven’t been very active on this group yet, but I was lucky to acquire SM#50 in the fall of 2017. I must admit the bowthruster has been quite a black box to me, and your video really helped to demystify it. That’s too bad about the new lid not matching up. Anyway, much appreciated. I hope someday I can add some useful content, too.
Charlie Kopp on SY Cloud Seven SM#50 Seattle WA USA
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Re: Water hoses in engine room
Hi Vic,
You note you've got a West Marine (WM) nearby and Kevin said he used Defenders. I just did a bunch of replacements - WM was $7.29 for the Scandvik ABA 316 SS SAE10. A local FL store (Boat Owners Warehouse) has it for 3.92 and Defender is $2.99. Buying many clamps makes Defender's shipping charge minor. Scandvik ABA is excellent. WM has Scandvik add a digit to the clamp number so they can call it a private brand and refuse to price match, saying it is not identical - it is. Double clamping has been highly recommended for thru-hulls (with long barbs). Not important for fresh water, sea water on pump discharges and engine coolant as you likely won't sink if those go. My project was the hot water tank. To clean just remove all the hoses and electric feed, then drain and take it out of the engine room. Pull the heating element and plumbing fittings. Then rinse thoroughly, shaking it around and upside down to slosh out any sludge. If you've got rusty sludge, rinse and slosh some more with a bunch of phosphoric acid to passivate. Reassemble with fresh teflon tape on the pipe threads and maybe put in a new heating element - every few years is good for those - and do check the wiring for any electric corrosion. Don't forget the clamps on the copper distribution pipes along the hull - mine were buried in sound insulation and rusting badly. Mine is a 16 year old IsoTemp that had a tiny leak at the hot outlet that dripped down and corroded the thermostats. I had patched a side wall leak with JB Weld 15 years ago and that was still good (JB Weld rocks!) but I peeled that off anyway and redid both with a new JB Weld "Marine" version for $8. Replacement generic button thermostats = $3. Replacement heating element $12. Total repair $23 vs new IsoTemp at about $700. I did put it on the "repair-again" list for 2035. Craig - SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
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Re: Water hoses in engine room
James Alton
Vic, You have some good questions and it will be interesting to read the input. I can tell that for myself I try to only use the Shields exhaust hose below waterline and always double clamp those connections with the best 316 grade stainless clamps I can find. Sometimes you will have hose Barb's that are too short for the double clamps, try to change those out with longer ones if you can. The ABA brand hose clamp has been pretty good for me. Look for a hose clamp with a band that has the teeth for the gear rolled into in rather than being cut through it as the latter are more prone to breakage in my experience. The exhaust hose is not cheap but it's well constructed and has been very reliable. The hose also seems to resist damage from engine oil and can handle a lot more heat than a vinyl hose. For a hose run that is subjected to any suction or has anything more than a very gentle bend, the hose needs to a reinforcement to prevent collapse. In the case of the exhaust hose this will be a wire spiral that will require some decent side cutters to get through. If you pull a bit on the wire when cutting the sharp end of the wire will bury itself back into the hose. Best of luck with your project. James Maramu #220
On Aug 17, 2020 1:10 PM, Vic Fryzel <vic.fryzel@...> wrote:
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Re: Dolphin power 1 battery chargers
Ross Hickey & Donna Hammond
Thanks Stefan,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Very helpful. I will look into Victron battery balancer. Kind regards
On Thursday, August 20, 2020, 8:55 pm, Stefan Jeukendrup <sjeukendrup@...> wrote:
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Re: Dolphin power 1 battery chargers
Stefan Jeukendrup
Hi Ross, Appologies for the delay in answering, sailing to Datca now ;-) The manual is now on the forum under Files, Search, type "Dolphin"
* suggest to ask D. for a manual of your 100A charger, email contact@... * the solar MPPT settings are important as it does most of the time the final charge cutoff. The batteries and accessoires of your 24V stack must be exactly the same: * all battery cables must be in good condition e.g. isolation, crimping, oxidation * cables to the battery terminals must be of the same length and cross section. * suggest to install one or more Victron battery balancers, if not done already Hope this is helpfull, Stefan Jeukendrup sv Malaka Queen SM2k #348 ~to Turkey
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Re: Water hoses in engine room
Vic Fryzel
Thanks Kevin! This is extremely useful!! I'll be following all that advice. Thanks, - Vic
Vic,
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Re: Dolphin power 1 battery chargers
Hi Bill,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Totally agree with you about Varta. Bought mine in Croatia 2 years ago and they are nearly finished. Absolute rubbish. We are full time on the boat and have been very careful with our batteries. That’s why I am now changing to Lithium. The Zoom was interesting, thank you for organizing it. But, I want 24V 100Amh not 24V 50Amh, at least 600Amh bank. Also a single BMS not individual BMS on each battery. I will get the latest Victron Quattro 24/8000 which will run the entire electrical system once hooked up to the 230v control panel. Generator and any Shore Power hook up will just be used to charge the Lithium batteries. My 175amh engine alternator will have a controller installed to ensure it does not burn out. Currently installed Solar Panels give up to 30 Amp, looking to increase this slightly. New Solar Panels now available for the back arch now produce from top and bottom (sun reflected off water). Oliver on “Vela Nautica” has done his boat and has designed my system and is organizing all batteries and equipment, all items should be here in Martinique by October. I am fortunate that Oliver is at the same anchorage and stuck here with me for the next few months due to Covid-19 restrictions😎. Once we start I will post how we get this done. Very Best Barry and Penny “SV Lady Penelope II” Amel 54. #17 Sainte Anne anchorage Martinique
On Aug 20, 2020, at 09:59, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
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