Date   
Re: ZF25. Transmission Gearbox. FILTER

Gerhard Mueller
 

In the owner manual ZF recommends oil change and filter change after 300 hours or each year.
--
Gerhard Mueller
Amel Sharki #60
Currently Kalamata, Greece

Re: ZF25. Transmission Gearbox. FILTER

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Hello Arthur;

 

I believe annually and we replace at 200 hour engine oil changes all together. This makes sense to us, although not sure if it is as recommended by ZF.

 

Happy Sailing;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

AMEL 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Arthur Sundqvist via Groups.Io
Sent: Monday, December 02, 2019 9:02 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] ZF25. Transmission Gearbox. FILTER

 

How often does the filter need to be changed?
How many hours??

Fair Winds to all.

arthur Sundqvist
SM435. VISTA

ZF25. Transmission Gearbox. FILTER

Arthur Sundqvist
 

How often does the filter need to be changed?
How many hours??

Fair Winds to all.

arthur Sundqvist
SM435. VISTA

Re: Mast painting Amel Super Maramu

Jean-Pierre Massicotte
 

Hello I bought 7 years ago a Santorin, i did drop the 2 mast down and treated the corroded area and repaint both mast. Now after those years and a cruise around the world the 2 masts still look very good. I did not change at the time the pad since there where no crack or visible damage. I believe the old pad are more durable than the newer version.
Congratulations and enjoy your Amel.

Regards

Jean Pierre Massicotte
S/V Vanille , Santorin # 51


On Mon., Dec. 2, 2019, 12:06 Jarek Zemlo, <zemlo.jarek@...> wrote:
Hello to Everyone

After searching for almost 1,5 years I found my AMEL SM. Last week I became proud owner of AMEL SM 201. I am going through some repair work at the moment and look for advice regarding mast paint. There are several places where paint is showing corrosion underneath. Is it best to strip the mast to bear aluminium or better sand lightly the paint, repair corrosion and paint over the old well prepared paint layer?

Also have doubt if I should replace the mast foot pads. They look very good and no cracks (see picture), but maybe too old and shoud be replaced?

Look also for contact details to AMEL spare parts service in Europe (France preferably).

Still searching for a name, once is done will all let you know.
Thank you all in advance

Best regards

Jarek Zemlo

Re: Mast painting Amel Super Maramu

Jarek Zemlo
 


Is it possible to order plastic sail protection that rans along the mast where sail is entering the mast?


Missing pictures of my mast foot pads
--

Mast painting Amel Super Maramu

Jarek Zemlo
 

Hello to Everyone

After searching for almost 1,5 years I found my AMEL SM. Last week I became proud owner of AMEL SM 201. I am going through some repair work at the moment and look for advice regarding mast paint. There are several places where paint is showing corrosion underneath. Is it best to strip the mast to bear aluminium or better sand lightly the paint, repair corrosion and paint over the old well prepared paint layer?

Also have doubt if I should replace the mast foot pads. They look very good and no cracks (see picture), but maybe too old and shoud be replaced?

Look also for contact details to AMEL spare parts service in Europe (France preferably).

Still searching for a name, once is done will all let you know.
Thank you all in advance

Best regards

Jarek Zemlo

Panama recommendations : Pacific coast

James Cromie
 

Hello fellows.

I would like to ask advice from the group regarding
Preferred marinas near Panama City where others have berthed their boats.  I have heard Vista Mar is good, and Balboa possibly.    

Are there any decent supermarkets near Vista Mar, or must one travel to Panama City for that?

Are snubbers necessary at either marina when tying up to the slip?

Many thanks.

James
Sv Soteria #347
Cartagena

Rig tuning A55

Joerg Esdorn
 

Does anyone have a procedure to tune the rig on the A55?  As is to be expected, my rig has stretched a bit after 4 seasons and I have tightened the lowers and the backstay on the main mast a few turns but I don’t think it is enough.  I think I also need to tighten the discontinuous Intermediates and the mizzen shrouds.  The uppers are tight to leeward going upwind but the lowers and intermediates to leeward are visibly loose in 15 kn or more.  so are the lowers on the mizzen mast.   On one of my race boats, I had a Loos tension gauge to make sure the rig was in tune for the conditions but I hope I can do this without.  

Many thanks!

Joerg Esdorn
A55 Kincsem

Re: Refrigerator replacement 1998 SM

Mark Barter
 

Hi Liz,

I have seen the photographs of this installation and it looks great. Our SM looks identical to yours so I am sure the fridge that you fitted would also fit our SM.

Do you know the model number please?

Many thanks
Mark
--
Mark & Nicky Barter
S/V Nunky
SM 110

Navigation Lights

Mark Barter
 

Our SM only has masthead navigation lights so we are looking at retro fitting lights to the front pulpit and the rear. The breaker for the navigation lights is above the door that goes in to the area outside the front cabin.

If anyone has experience of this process I would be very grateful for any advice. In particular I would appreciate advice on running the wires and the brackets for the pulpit. 
--
Mark & Nicky Barter
S/V Nunky
SM 110

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: rig tuning

scentstone
 

Thank you Bill
After some search, here it on this forum https://amelyachtowners.groups.io/g/main/message/26665
Kind regards
Fred
S/V ScentStone
SM2K #375
La Rochelle, France 

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Windlass bolt to deck

rossirossix4
 

Removing the stubborn windlass bolt--
Just spotted these photos of this process and I am posting this  for those who may search for solutions on windlass bolt removal in the future.  Although I spent 4 days using the dam technique-- building a small dam round the bolt and filling it with various penetrating fluids--it did not work for me.  My suspicion was that the corrosion around the bolt head and sealants at the bass of the windlass blocked the penetrating fluid.

Next I gently tapped a thin putty knife between the deck and the windlass until it was stopped by the bolt.  This cleared a channel to the bolt.  I then sprayed penetrating fluid (I used CorrosionX) and was surprised to see that it was taking fluid.  Sure enough, after a couple of hours I was able to back the bold back out.  These photos show both methods-- https://photos.app.goo.gl/C942E76KpfauET8a8 

Bob KAIMI SM429

Re: New VHF antenna = newly discovered electrical leak!

Sv Garulfo
 


Hi Scott,

Thanks Scott for your answers for the VHF. A friend tipped us to use uncut cable ties every foot or so, at say, 120° angle from each others as chaff guards along the mast. Would that be useful/possible in our case?


For the leak, try the bow thruster, ours was located there because of carbon dust. Also try the navigation lights, we had a small leak there too. 

Undo the cables one by one until it disappears, but the following can be confusing: 
If you have 2 locations for leaks, you can think an equipment is ok because you unplugged it and the leak is still there. So in theory, you should unplug everything and test each equipment one by one by replugging just that component. It’s a lot more work and best done starting from the battery bank to isolate the part of the boat the leak is from. But even that can be confusing because the leak from the bow thruster can be seen in the console section through the command part of the system (the joystick activating the relay). Ask me how I know. 

What may help you:
I wired a leak detector that i could use where I was working rather than shout at Soraya for testing with the amel built in tester. It’s a simple  LED bulb and 2 long wires. I connect one side to the positive (for testing a neg leak) nearby (but live) and the other to the bonding system, for instance the rigging, the guard rail etc. If there is a leak (ie the neg is connected to the bonding system somewhere), the bulb lights. And even better, the quantity of light shows the intensity of the leak. That’s useful for sorting big leaks (for us the truster) from small ones (for us, the navigation lights). 

Hope that helps, good luck. 



On Sat, 30 Nov 2019 at 08:51, Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:
Thomas, 
 
Sorry for the slow reply. Infinite resistance just means the core and shield are not shorted out. The original antenna does not have a removable connector on the antenna side. I had to cut the coax wire at the antenna. I believe water must have gotten inside either the antenna or coax as the shield showed some signs of corrosion. 
 
I then taped the new coax (RG-8X) to the old coax and had someone pull it down from the starboard side base of the mast. Quite easy but there is a somewhat sharp bend at the bottom - be careful not to damage the coax or bend it too sharply. I believe RG-8X requires a 10cm bend radius. Then it's easy to run it into the boat using the access panel above the door between the saloon and the bunk bed area. There is a mousing line inside the mast, but I didn't use this. The reason is that I didn't want to pull raw coax up and then have to do the termination soldering "in the air" at the top of the mast. By using the old coax to pull the new coax down, you can do the antenna side termination "on the ground" and pull raw unterminated coax down through the mast and terminate it "on the ground" once you determine the right length.
 
I didn't want to leave anything to chance, so I ran new coax all the way to the VHF. That part was a bit more difficult but luckily the coax is not zip tied to the wire bundles on the starboard side. A little pushing and pulling and we got new wire all the way to the VHF. 
 
I got raw coax so you will need to terminate them yourself and weather seal the termination at the antenna side. I watched some youtube videos - not difficult at all. Get the quality soldered terminals, this is not a place to be cheap.
 
There is a coupler inside the access panel above the door that allows you to disconnect the coax in case you ever need to remove the mast. I did not install this because I believe each additional termination is an opportunity to screw up. If, in the future, I need to remove the mast, I can then add those additional terminations and use the coupling.
 
I got about 42 meters of RG-8X coax. I have lots left over after the VHF antenna install, but I plan to replace the mizzen AIS antenna and coax at some point.
 
On the mass-neg leak into the rigging, I've measured it to be about 150mA. I disconnected everything in the main and mizzen and it still exists. I am certain it's something in the bow locker. Sadly, I disconnected both windlasses, both genoa/staysail Bamar boxtron units and the leak seems to still be there. I fear it may be a chafed wire somewhere in the bow locker. Not looking forward to finding it.
--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

Re: Leece -Neville Alternator external regulator install

Dan Carlson
 

Thanks for the reply Oliver,

Very helpful information.  The Wakespeed 500 regulator has a dip switch setting that limits the alternator to 75% or 130 Amps (or further with programing). It will further limit output if the temperature goes up to high.  And I have a switch that can also set it directly to float charge level (current flow neutral).

I do have the wiring diagram you referenced as well as one from this forum with some specific notes on where wires connect.  But your comments on the how you modiifed the existing regulator cap for the wiring are very helpful.

Thanks and regards, Daniel Carlson on sv BeBe, SM#387






On Sat, Nov 30, 2019, 1:08 PM Oliver Henrichsen, SV Vela Nautica <oliver.henrichsen@... wrote:
Helli Dan,

Yes i got the 175A Alternator with double pully belt setup. 

At this time I limited the current to max 90 A. I could do more but I dont need to. I installed a 14.4 kWh Lithium batterie and most times when cruising I arrive with 90% charged batterie. The good side is also there is no more worn belts because the permanent load is lower now.

Do you have the Leece Neville document TSB-1139_8SC_WIRING_DIAGRAM?

Thats what I used to identify the connections. If you need to access the fiel contacts you may get the replacement back cap or just drill a wider hole through the original and use a hear resistant silicone wire and heat resistent gasket maker Silikone to access the field contact.

To access the stator I disconnected the original regulator and used the upper slot to pass the wires. I set the old regulator back as cap, disconnected. 

Oliver from Vela Nautica Amel54 #39 
Gran Canaria SPAIN 

On Fri, Nov 29, 2019, 13:18 Dan Carlson <carlsdan61@...> wrote:
Thanks for the information Oliver.

Do you have the Leece Neville 175A alternator on your boat?  If so the one picture that would be helpful is the actual wiring of the regulator behind the cap and the new connections into it.   And also if you have the LN175, it would be helpful to know the max current that you draw from it? 

Thanks and regards, Daniel Carlson on sv BeBe, SM#387, Shelter Bay, Panama



On Fri, Nov 29, 2019, 3:13 AM Oliver Henrichsen, SV Vela Nautica <oliver.henrichsen@... wrote:
Hello Dan,

I used the VSR sailors project regulator from Al Thomason. 
I am very satisfied with it. 
Since then I dont have wear off pullys and the regulator offers all parameters to customize beside all standard charge programs. 

I dont know if my wiring or fotos will help you? 

Oliver from Vela Nautica Amel54 #39 
Gran Canaria SPAIN 

On Thu, Nov 28, 2019, 13:43 Dan Carlson <carlsdan61@...> wrote:
Does anyone know what the safe continuous output for the LN175 would be? Or any information on the out put curve specific to this alternator.  I don't recall seeing it. Just the 175 amp rating. 

On Thu, Nov 28, 2019, 4:18 AM Alan Leslie <s.v.elyse@... wrote:
Yes Bob,
Traditional alternators can be a problem.
Remember though that on our boats there is a 1:2 ratio between engine rpm and alternator rpm so when the engine is doing 1000rpm the alternator is doing 2000.
This is where alternators like Delstar and Idlepro Extreme come into their own. These are 220/250amp alternators that can deliver 80-90% of rated output @ 2000 alternator rpm.
The standard LN175 can't do that and if you increase the rpm to produce more amps it will only do it for a while before everything turns to custard. 
We have big battery banks that can have very high charge acceptance rates with AGM,  firefly or lithium batteries,  so you need to think about these things very carefully in designing and operating a system that will achieve what you want safely.
Cheers 
Alan
Elyse SM 437 

Re: New VHF antenna = newly discovered electrical leak!

Scott SV Tengah
 

Thomas, 
 
Sorry for the slow reply. Infinite resistance just means the core and shield are not shorted out. The original antenna does not have a removable connector on the antenna side. I had to cut the coax wire at the antenna. I believe water must have gotten inside either the antenna or coax as the shield showed some signs of corrosion. 
 
I then taped the new coax (RG-8X) to the old coax and had someone pull it down from the starboard side base of the mast. Quite easy but there is a somewhat sharp bend at the bottom - be careful not to damage the coax or bend it too sharply. I believe RG-8X requires a 10cm bend radius. Then it's easy to run it into the boat using the access panel above the door between the saloon and the bunk bed area. There is a mousing line inside the mast, but I didn't use this. The reason is that I didn't want to pull raw coax up and then have to do the termination soldering "in the air" at the top of the mast. By using the old coax to pull the new coax down, you can do the antenna side termination "on the ground" and pull raw unterminated coax down through the mast and terminate it "on the ground" once you determine the right length.
 
I didn't want to leave anything to chance, so I ran new coax all the way to the VHF. That part was a bit more difficult but luckily the coax is not zip tied to the wire bundles on the starboard side. A little pushing and pulling and we got new wire all the way to the VHF. 
 
I got raw coax so you will need to terminate them yourself and weather seal the termination at the antenna side. I watched some youtube videos - not difficult at all. Get the quality soldered terminals, this is not a place to be cheap.
 
There is a coupler inside the access panel above the door that allows you to disconnect the coax in case you ever need to remove the mast. I did not install this because I believe each additional termination is an opportunity to screw up. If, in the future, I need to remove the mast, I can then add those additional terminations and use the coupling.
 
I got about 42 meters of RG-8X coax. I have lots left over after the VHF antenna install, but I plan to replace the mizzen AIS antenna and coax at some point.
 
On the mass-neg leak into the rigging, I've measured it to be about 150mA. I disconnected everything in the main and mizzen and it still exists. I am certain it's something in the bow locker. Sadly, I disconnected both windlasses, both genoa/staysail Bamar boxtron units and the leak seems to still be there. I fear it may be a chafed wire somewhere in the bow locker. Not looking forward to finding it.
--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

Re: Leece -Neville Alternator external regulator install

Oliver Henrichsen, SV Vela Nautica
 

Helli Dan,

Yes i got the 175A Alternator with double pully belt setup. 

At this time I limited the current to max 90 A. I could do more but I dont need to. I installed a 14.4 kWh Lithium batterie and most times when cruising I arrive with 90% charged batterie. The good side is also there is no more worn belts because the permanent load is lower now.

Do you have the Leece Neville document TSB-1139_8SC_WIRING_DIAGRAM?

Thats what I used to identify the connections. If you need to access the fiel contacts you may get the replacement back cap or just drill a wider hole through the original and use a hear resistant silicone wire and heat resistent gasket maker Silikone to access the field contact.

To access the stator I disconnected the original regulator and used the upper slot to pass the wires. I set the old regulator back as cap, disconnected. 

Oliver from Vela Nautica Amel54 #39 
Gran Canaria SPAIN 

On Fri, Nov 29, 2019, 13:18 Dan Carlson <carlsdan61@...> wrote:
Thanks for the information Oliver.

Do you have the Leece Neville 175A alternator on your boat?  If so the one picture that would be helpful is the actual wiring of the regulator behind the cap and the new connections into it.   And also if you have the LN175, it would be helpful to know the max current that you draw from it? 

Thanks and regards, Daniel Carlson on sv BeBe, SM#387, Shelter Bay, Panama



On Fri, Nov 29, 2019, 3:13 AM Oliver Henrichsen, SV Vela Nautica <oliver.henrichsen@... wrote:
Hello Dan,

I used the VSR sailors project regulator from Al Thomason. 
I am very satisfied with it. 
Since then I dont have wear off pullys and the regulator offers all parameters to customize beside all standard charge programs. 

I dont know if my wiring or fotos will help you? 

Oliver from Vela Nautica Amel54 #39 
Gran Canaria SPAIN 

On Thu, Nov 28, 2019, 13:43 Dan Carlson <carlsdan61@...> wrote:
Does anyone know what the safe continuous output for the LN175 would be? Or any information on the out put curve specific to this alternator.  I don't recall seeing it. Just the 175 amp rating. 

On Thu, Nov 28, 2019, 4:18 AM Alan Leslie <s.v.elyse@... wrote:
Yes Bob,
Traditional alternators can be a problem.
Remember though that on our boats there is a 1:2 ratio between engine rpm and alternator rpm so when the engine is doing 1000rpm the alternator is doing 2000.
This is where alternators like Delstar and Idlepro Extreme come into their own. These are 220/250amp alternators that can deliver 80-90% of rated output @ 2000 alternator rpm.
The standard LN175 can't do that and if you increase the rpm to produce more amps it will only do it for a while before everything turns to custard. 
We have big battery banks that can have very high charge acceptance rates with AGM,  firefly or lithium batteries,  so you need to think about these things very carefully in designing and operating a system that will achieve what you want safely.
Cheers 
Alan
Elyse SM 437 

Re: Companion way for removal

Craig & Katherine Briggs SN 68 Sangaris Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
 

Duane,
There is frosted plexiglass available that could be a good choice for you rather than sanding. Good idea for minimizing scratching from the wiper, if you choose to use it - I just took the wiper out.
I had a millwork make a new top rail, but you could reuse the old - you may need a router to clean out the door groove. We used a double thickness of plexi across the top few inches to mount the lock, top rail and locking bolts.
Cheers, Craig

Re: Greasing stegring cables

eric freedman
 

The photo of the damaged rack was one from Kimberlite.

When I took the racks apart they were loaded with grease. I do not believe the damage was caused by a lack of grease.

I believe it was just wear and tear on the racks.  Fortunately I had a spare set on board . The rotary drive presents a sort of jerky motion to the steering assembly. While the linear drive is much smoother. I believe that is the reason for the failure. When I was in Martinique I had Amel check the steering and they said it was fine. The problem presented itself with a small thunk sound at one position of the wheel. It was only when the rotary pilot was working.

This is the second time I have replaced the racks.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of CW Bill Rouse
Sent: Sunday, November 24, 2019 3:26 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Greasing stegring cables

 

Pat,

 

Steve would know better than any of us.


--

Image removed by sender.

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School

Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 

Image removed by sender. Image removed by sender. Image removed by sender. 

 

 

On Sun, Nov 24, 2019 at 10:20 AM Stephen Davis <flyboyscd@...> wrote:

Hi Pat,

 

I would suggest you do not attempt to add a grease fitting to the Racks. The steel racks take up almost all the room inside the black housing they are fitted into, and I’m not sure you can find a place to put the nipple.  Even if you could, the grease is not going to circulate adequately around the racks. When I took my racks apart, they were still packed full of grease after 27 years. If you are losing a lot of grease from your racks, something is probably not right, and you should take them apart. If you are just losing very small amounts of grease, don’t worry, the racks are very full of grease. 

 

Just my two cents worth, but having replaced my entire steering system (racks, pinion, and cables), I have a fairly good understanding of how it works. 

 

Regards,

 

Steve Davis

Aloha SM72

Ko  Olina, Hawaii



On Nov 24, 2019, at 4:07 AM, Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:



Bill , I may go ahead and try to add a nipple,if as you said the wall is too thin to tap , I will seal it by other means. I will in the future tie the wheel off center to spread the wear as per another owners suggestion a week or so back,a good idea. If the rack is steel, do you think it possible to replace the worn metal through welding in new material and then fashioning new teeth by filing.

Thanks,

Pat

SM Shenanigans

-----Original Message-----
From: CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
To: main <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Sat, Nov 23, 2019 4:19 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Greasing stegring cables

Pat,

 

I haven't considered that. I assume that you are referring to the racks...the steering cable is sealed.

 

I assume that the "leaking grease" is coming from the rack housing at one end or the other. If I recall these ends are not perfectly sealed. And as the toothed rack moves back and forth, it could push excess grease toward the ends of the rack housing.

 

Keep in mind that it is the steel toothed racks inside each rack housing that will fail with excess wear and that excess wear will be very close to the center of each rack. I believe this is wear caused by the autopilot "back and forth motion." It may also be caused by securing the helm in a center position while anchored.

 

Amel SAV said that they are going to be sourcing these steel toothed racks and have them available, even though the original manufacturer, Ultraflex, has stopped producing them. See the worn rack below:

<image.png>

 

 

One rack has teeth pointed upward, the other rack teeth are pointed downward. Tooth orientation, along with primarily 

center wear, should be considered when adding grease/fitting.

<image.png>

 

Translation:Corrugated Washer ---- Teflon half-rings

 

<image.png>

 

 

Possibly, the cover shown below can be drilled to inject grease. If so, this would be a fairly easy modification that could possibly add years of service to the racks. 

I am worried that the metal is to thin to take a thread tap. If that is true, possibly it could be drilled, grease injected and a rubber plug inserted. I know there are a few owners who can answer this question. We may need a volunteer to study this further.

<image.png>

 

 


--

Image removed by sender.

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School

+1 832-380-4970 | brouse@...

Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 

Image removed by sender. Image removed by sender. Image removed by sender. 

 

 

On Sat, Nov 23, 2019 at 1:55 PM Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:

Bill, For some years now I have had a minor leak of grease from the rack&pinion . What do you think about adding a nipple to put a little grease back into the unit .

Thanks,

Pat

SM Shenanigans

-----Original Message-----
From: CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
To: main <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Sat, Nov 23, 2019 9:52 am
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Greasing stegring cables

The cables are sealed.

 

The racks and pinion have to be disassembled to add grease. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School - www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

 

On Sat, Nov 23, 2019, 7:32 AM Arthur Sundqvist <arthur@...> wrote:

How and where do I Grease the Steering Cables?
arthur sundqvist
sm435. Vista
Fair winds.....

<image.png>

<image.png>

<image.png>

<image.png>

Re: Companion way for removal

Duane Siegfri
 

We are also looking at ways to renew the companionway, and the plexiglass idea is one we like.

I am no expert, but I have read that glued joints in plexiglass are nearly invisible.  My thought was to remove the existing companionway by cutting horizontally, reuse the top rail, lock and hardware, and make the rest from plexiglass matching the thickness.  Have the fabrication shop put a half-lap scarf joint (as low as possible) to field glue in place so that one does not have to remove dodger.

I had to look up the "half-lap scarf joint" terminology (google it, since I can't draw the shape here) so forgive me if that's not accurate.  This is a joint that looks like a step on each piece, they fit together and give a lot more area for the glue to adhere.  

I am considering sanding the exterior surface with 1000 grit sandpaper to make it opaque, and to render further scratching from the bottom rubber seal not an issue.

Any thoughts from plexiglass experts out there?

Duane
Wanderer, SM#477

Re: Tips for the passage from Chesapeake to St. Maarten?

Duane Siegfri
 

Alan Grayson:

Gaetun told me your boat was coming into Caribe Greement on Monday.  Please email me at:  carlylelk "at" aol "dot" com and maybe we can get together this weekend.  Peg and I are staying at the riggers dock until Monday morning.

Duane Siegfried
Wanderer, SM#477