Re: New Thread on A54 fridge pumps (ATTN: OLIVER Vela Nautica)
While cold seawater is, indeed, much better at cooling than warm water, it is less efficient for our refrigeration systems. Having the cooling water be at about the condensing temperature of the refrigerant is ideal. Typically, systems are most efficient with 90 degrees F / 32 C sea water (varies with the refrigerant). At much lower temperatures, like 55F/13C up north, the system will operate with a lower suction pressure and the pressure across the expansion valve is reduced which decreases system capacity and increases running times. We've got a gate valve on the sea water outlet that can be partially closed in very cold water to restrict flow and increase temperature. Put your hand on the drier or receiver and it should be about body temp. Recirculating the fresh water in your tank instead of using sea water is great and has the added benefit of keeping the beer cold when you're on the hard.
Cheers, Craig
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Re: Santorin Bow Thruster/genoa furler breaker.
Ian,
On our SN (#68) the bow thruster and Foc furler are hard wired with no fuse or circuit breaker (diruptor). Real men don't need them ;-) The 100amp fuse (mine is Blue Seas pop-up breaker style) is for the anchor windlass. The main 12v power only kills power to the relay switches at the helm (same as turning off the "joy stick" breaker on the main DC panel). So when you say turning that off still left the BT and furler live, you were probing at the BT solenoid line terminals (not load), right, and the solenoids were actually inoperable from the helm switches. That seems safe enough, that is, you couldn't accidentally operate them from the helm. If you want to actually kill the power to the bow thruster and furler, just turn off your main battery switch - remote twist handle in the port cockpit lazarette locker, next to the helm. If you have a fuse in the main battery feed, that's your safety for a dead short at the furler/bow thruster. If not you'll have one heck of a cabin heater. Cheers, Craig
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Re: Dive Compressor on a SM
eric freedman
Years ago when I used to cave dive. we used an aircraft government surplus 3000 psi compressor. it was about 10 inches in diameter and about 14 inches high.
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They used to cost about $300- I still see the on ebay from time to time. The filters were the expensive part of the setup. We needed this setup as where we dived was in the boondocks. You might look into it. Fair Winds, Eric sm 376
On July 10, 2020 at 12:13 AM Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:
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Re: Hardtop for Amel 54
Mohammad Shirloo
Thanks Barry;
We ended up scrapping our season in the Med. They wouldn’t let us in anyway, since we are doing so great in the US. The new strategy is, stop looking and the problem will go away. It would be great if boats worked the same way.
Looking forward to your input. If you have been able to fit 1200 Watts on the cockpit cover, that is great. Can you share the manufacturer and model number of the panels you used? Hi to Penny from both of us.
Happy Sailing;
Mohammad and Aty B&B Kokomo AMEL 54 #099
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
On Behalf Of Barry Connor via groups.io
Sent: Friday, July 10, 2020 2:40 PM To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Hardtop for Amel 54
Hi Mohammad,
Hope you and Aty are doing OK. Not being able to sail freely is a big down for our system. Today I found the local company here in Le Marin, Martinique who have made a hardtop for a 54. Due to holidays I will not talk to them until next Wednesday. If they have a good mold I would want them to increase the height by a few inches. I will let you know next week after I see them. My Bimini solar panels are 12v 100amp. These are being tested next week after the acid stuff was spilt all over them last year in Tunisia. I will let you know also about these next week. I am now going ahead with the Lithium batteries with Olivers (Amel 54 Vela Nautica II) help. With this virus thing I think we will be here for this year.
Very Best
Barry and Penny “SV Lady Penelope II” Amel54. #17 Sainte Anne anchorage Martinique
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Re: Hardtop for Amel 54
Hi Mohammad,
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Hope you and Aty are doing OK. Not being able to sail freely is a big down for our system. Today I found the local company here in Le Marin, Martinique who have made a hardtop for a 54. Due to holidays I will not talk to them until next Wednesday. If they have a good mold I would want them to increase the height by a few inches. I will let you know next week after I see them. My Bimini solar panels are 12v 100amp. These are being tested next week after the acid stuff was spilt all over them last year in Tunisia. I will let you know also about these next week. I am now going ahead with the Lithium batteries with Olivers (Amel 54 Vela Nautica II) help. With this virus thing I think we will be here for this year. Very Best Barry and Penny “SV Lady Penelope II” Amel54. #17 Sainte Anne anchorage Martinique
On Jul 10, 2020, at 17:06, Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> wrote:
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Re: Hardtop for Amel 54
Mohammad Shirloo
Hi Barry;
We have been looking at adding the hardtop for a while and plan on doing it in 2022 due delays caused by COVID-19. Since it appears you have added solar to your cockpit top, which is what we are planning, I wanted to know the impact of shading on your solar panels. How many watts of solar panels do you have installed and what kind of output in Amp Hours due you get on a typical day?
Happy Sailing;
Mohammad and Aty B&B Kokomo AMEL 54 #099
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
On Behalf Of Barry Connor via groups.io
Sent: Friday, July 10, 2020 1:55 PM To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Hardtop for Amel 54
I have attached some photos showing how I raised the boom line.
Very Best
Barry and Penny “SV Lady Penelope II” Amel 54. #17 Sainte Anne anchorage Martinique
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Re: Hardtop for Amel 54
I have attached some photos showing how I raised the boom line. Very Best Barry and Penny “SV Lady Penelope II” Amel 54. #17 Sainte Anne anchorage Martinique
On Jul 10, 2020, at 03:47, Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...> wrote:
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Re: New Thread on A54 fridge pumps (ATTN: OLIVER Vela Nautica)
Porter McRoberts
All excellent points Scott.
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Cold seawater is much better at cooling than warm seawater!!! We actually installed an air-cooled compressor for the main deep freeze, so its not in the circuit. That has helped with unsyncronized pump demand, but it does heat up the galley a bit. All are waiting for the brushless solution. Thanks, Porter/IBIS A54-152
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Re: New Thread on A54 fridge pumps (ATTN: OLIVER Vela Nautica)
Scott SV Tengah
Porter - I run freshwater through the pump so scale/lime isn't really affecting me. Pump still dies prematurely. The Frigoboat UK spec'd pump (4105-343 Flojet) is 24v and flows 3.3gpm. The Frigoboat compressors require 1gpm per the VECO documentation. Per my earlier post from Penguin UK, the concept is that a 24v pump running on 12v will be acceptable for continuous duty - that is not the case obviously. Rudolf - Mohammad Shirloo, in the Med, has the same longevity as you. Apparently his pump has lasted over a decade. But two things help explain that: 1) Neither of you are full time. 2) Both of you are in the cooler Med. Oliver said that after he changed the insulation on his galley freezer, his pump was running 15% (or thereabouts) duty cycle in Portugal. Now that he's in the tropics, it's up to 75% duty cycle. This mirrors my experience as my Flojet pump lasted far longer when I was in the Med. It appears the combination of higher ambient temperatures and higher water temperatures when he left the Med increased his pump usage by 5x. Curious - do you run the freezer? We often run two fridges and the freezer. With the three "unsynchronized" compressors, the pump runs nearly 24/7. And with longer continuous running periods, the brush temp goes up a lot. And above a certain temp, brush wear appears to be exponentially higher. Based on this, we are trying to find a brushless solution.
On Fri, Jul 10, 2020 at 7:47 AM Rudolf Waldispuehl <Rudolf@...> wrote:
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Re: Dive Compressor on a SM
hanspeter baettig
Hello Paul
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Can you please send me your contact infos for the Coltri dive compressor. I'm hesitating between the Bauer Junior and Coltri. I know the Coltri Company in Italy. You can email me direct; hanspeter dot baettig at bluemail dot ch Thanks Hanspeter SM 16, Tamango 2
----Ursprüngliche Nachricht----
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Re: Dive Compressor on a SM
Paul Guenette
Hi Thomas,
I recently purchased a Coltri MCH 6 single phase 220 volt 50 hz with a inox stainless steel frame for $3,500.00 that fits nicely into the space. I am happy with it. I can send you the contact information for the company and person purchased it from if you wish, (they gave me a good price on some Mares diving gear too). If you do not have scuba tanks yet, let me know, I have a good contact for those too. (I met you and Kirstin briefly on the docks at Shelter Island marina in Panama, April 2019) Cheers, Paul Aramis, SM 2000 - 444, San Francisco Bay, California
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Re: New Thread on A54 fridge pumps (ATTN: OLIVER Vela Nautica)
Hi Dean, You’re absolutely correct with the E51385 Interface.
Yes, all ok on WASABI and hope you both are well doing too. BTW: we will winterize in Spain this year and postponed the Atlantic crossing to next season. Cheers Ruedi Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Dean Gillies <stella@...> Antworten an: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> Datum: Freitag, 10. Juli 2020 um 15:09 An: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] New Thread on A54 fridge pumps (ATTN: OLIVER Vela Nautica) Hi Ruedi,
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Re: Santorin Bow Thruster/genoa furler breaker.
Ian, your model and hull number...it makes a big difference.
On Fri, Jul 10, 2020 at 10:58 AM Ian Park <parkianj@...> wrote: I can’t find any breaker for the bow thruster and genoa furler motor. There is a 100amp fuse located in the bow thruster recess near the solenoids.
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Santorin Bow Thruster/genoa furler breaker.
Ian Park
I can’t find any breaker for the bow thruster and genoa furler motor. There is a 100amp fuse located in the bow thruster recess near the solenoids.
also when I turned off the main 12v power for the boat the furler and bow thruster were still live! I think an extra live main bus stud was added as so many wires were on the original. I need to investigate this pdq! But in the interim can any one tell be if and where the ‘disrupteur’ might be located on a Santorin. It is not in the bow thruster locker of either of the forward lockers in the fore cabin. thanks.
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Re: Cutting the main instrument display acrylic panel
Billy,
What's your boat name, model, hull # and location? I've not seen acrylic instrument mounting panels on Amels (just acrylic switch panels), but maybe newer models have that. On my SN I had to enlarge the openings for my new B&G MFD's but that's in fiberglass and, yes, the oscillating saw is the right tool. On acrylic there's a risk of melting the material and getting a nasty ragged edge but you can do it by going slowly and rotating the blade continuously to avoid overheating it. I see they want a 15mm / 19/32" radius on the corners so you'll want to do those first with a drill bit or hole saw, then cut the straight sections with the saw. Craig
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Re: New Thread on A54 fridge pumps (ATTN: OLIVER Vela Nautica)
Porter McRoberts
As with the heart, the condition of the arteries predicts the condition of the pump?
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I'm sure we've all changed many an old seawater line. Lime and scale. Marine atherosclerosis. I’m no cardiologist, but surely the resistance in the system would influence pump failure as well. How might we measure this without a bloodpressure cuff? I bet we're not 120/80. Porter McRoberts A54-152
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Re: New Thread on A54 fridge pumps (ATTN: OLIVER Vela Nautica)
Hi Ruedi,
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Re: New Thread on A54 fridge pumps (ATTN: OLIVER Vela Nautica)
Hi all First I have to say the Fridge-cooling on WASABI is running fine and constantly since 3 years without any issue (living 8-10 Month per year on WASABI). I never replaced the pump and it’s running many hours a day. Nevertheless I bought a spare Frigoboat Pump and a spare controller just in case (see pics). I have no idea why these pump is always breaking @ other A54. Maybe not using the original pumps? So I hear Bill Rouse saying: “Always use original parts as designed for the boat” ;-)
I try to explain what the E51385 is doing in my opinion and excuse me if I bother you with broadly known information. - The Frigoboat E51385 is a DC24-12V converter and power driver to source the needed AMP’s to the pump, because the Fan output F port (which is minus) is not designed to deliver enough Amp’s for the pump on 12V. The E51385 is a Voltage driver (converter) as noted on the schema, which was in my Pump-Box (see Pictures attached). - The mentioned schema also shows that if I run a 12V boat Voltage, I can connect the pump with an extra relay controlled by the Fan output, but power-sourced for the pump is the house-battery. Electrically the same as Bill’s proposal. - I opened my spare box and you can see in the middle of the board the blue 12V potentio-meter (or trimmer, - sorry my English is not perfect). It’s the converter regulator to bring any 24V down to 12V. Therefore the Frigoboat controller should never deliver 24V to the pump.
I know it’s very confusing that the controller shows the 24V LED on. The LED just indicates; “these is a 24V driven boat”. The LED shows 24V because the Battery Minus goes directly to the E51385. So it shows the 24V between the minus and the plus coming from the FAN-Output (+). The plus from the Danfos controller is the same plus as the input source and gives 24V against the minus at the E51385. The F wire (-) is only the trigger wire. All together it sounds strange but these 24V is converting to 12V at the E51385 for the pump. Don't be confused with the 24V LED. Bill’s proposed project is more clear and will certainly run as well. But it’s more or less the same with electrical (discrete components) as the E51385 which is build with transistor components electronically. In conclusion: I don’t think Bill's solution will change the wear of a pump and the problem will stay unless these Frigoboat converters are doing something strange which harms the pumps (but I don’t think so). Hope this helps a bit to get light into the blue Frigoboard “magic box”, and excuse my limited English.
Best regards Ruedi and Sabina Waldispuehl AMEL-54 Nbr. 55 Currently in Santa Maria di Leuca
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Cutting the main instrument display acrylic panel
Billy Newport
My B&G Vulcan 7FS failed at the helm and i purchased a new Vulcan 7R. Because its a boat, its mounting system is slightly different so I need to enlarge the hole and drill new holes. I'm thinking of using an oscillating saw to do this work and I'm wondering if anyone else has installed new instruments on those panels and how they did it?
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Re: Bottom paint removal
James Alton
Jarek, Best, James Alton SV Sueño Maramu #220
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