Date   
Re: Bowthruster works only one way

Mark & Debbie Mueller
 

I am assuming that the bow thruster extends and retracts OK.  We had a similar problem that turned out to be the solenoid pack mounted on the side of the bow thruster motor.  It had corroded and would operate in only on direction.  I have attached the trouble shooting guide from Side Power.  Some have rebuilt the solenoid(s) - I was not able to and replaced the solenoid pack.
--
Mark Mueller
Brass Ring  A54

Re: Leece -Neville Alternator external regulator install

Dan Carlson
 

Thanks for the information Oliver.

Do you have the Leece Neville 175A alternator on your boat?  If so the one picture that would be helpful is the actual wiring of the regulator behind the cap and the new connections into it.   And also if you have the LN175, it would be helpful to know the max current that you draw from it? 

Thanks and regards, Daniel Carlson on sv BeBe, SM#387, Shelter Bay, Panama



On Fri, Nov 29, 2019, 3:13 AM Oliver Henrichsen, SV Vela Nautica <oliver.henrichsen@... wrote:
Hello Dan,

I used the VSR sailors project regulator from Al Thomason. 
I am very satisfied with it. 
Since then I dont have wear off pullys and the regulator offers all parameters to customize beside all standard charge programs. 

I dont know if my wiring or fotos will help you? 

Oliver from Vela Nautica Amel54 #39 
Gran Canaria SPAIN 

On Thu, Nov 28, 2019, 13:43 Dan Carlson <carlsdan61@...> wrote:
Does anyone know what the safe continuous output for the LN175 would be? Or any information on the out put curve specific to this alternator.  I don't recall seeing it. Just the 175 amp rating. 

On Thu, Nov 28, 2019, 4:18 AM Alan Leslie <s.v.elyse@... wrote:
Yes Bob,
Traditional alternators can be a problem.
Remember though that on our boats there is a 1:2 ratio between engine rpm and alternator rpm so when the engine is doing 1000rpm the alternator is doing 2000.
This is where alternators like Delstar and Idlepro Extreme come into their own. These are 220/250amp alternators that can deliver 80-90% of rated output @ 2000 alternator rpm.
The standard LN175 can't do that and if you increase the rpm to produce more amps it will only do it for a while before everything turns to custard. 
We have big battery banks that can have very high charge acceptance rates with AGM,  firefly or lithium batteries,  so you need to think about these things very carefully in designing and operating a system that will achieve what you want safely.
Cheers 
Alan
Elyse SM 437 

Re: Lithium Ion Battery teardowns

Oliver Henrichsen, SV Vela Nautica
 

Hello,

In this teardown the usual problem with "drop in" batteries is exposed. 
Every drop in has its own BMS and with that a questionable max current capacity and a chance of long term disbalance if you hook several in a bank. 

Oliver from Vela Nautica Amel54 #39 
Gran Canaria SPAIN 

On Mon, Nov 25, 2019, 22:31 CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
I found 2 YouTube videos on Lithium Ion batteries that I really like. The batteries were disassembled by Will Prowse:  https://www.mobile-solarpower.com/lithium-batteries.html.

--
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   


Re: Question

Oliver Henrichsen, SV Vela Nautica
 

Hi Bill,

I will check my foto lib. 

Maybe I got some fotos when I revised my motor. 

The main problem was that the shaft was baked into the furler and I needed to take the boom off and press the shaft out by hydraulic press. 

Oliver from Vela Nautica Amel54 #39 
Gran Canaria SPAIN 

On Thu, Nov 28, 2019, 00:15 CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
I am updating my Amel Book and need more photos of the mainsail 54/55 outhaul motor and gearbox...possibly some disassembled photos. The one below is the only one that I have at this time.
image.png

--
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   

Re: Leece -Neville Alternator external regulator install

Oliver Henrichsen, SV Vela Nautica
 

Hello Dan,

I used the VSR sailors project regulator from Al Thomason. 
I am very satisfied with it. 
Since then I dont have wear off pullys and the regulator offers all parameters to customize beside all standard charge programs. 

I dont know if my wiring or fotos will help you? 

Oliver from Vela Nautica Amel54 #39 
Gran Canaria SPAIN 

On Thu, Nov 28, 2019, 13:43 Dan Carlson <carlsdan61@...> wrote:
Does anyone know what the safe continuous output for the LN175 would be? Or any information on the out put curve specific to this alternator.  I don't recall seeing it. Just the 175 amp rating. 

On Thu, Nov 28, 2019, 4:18 AM Alan Leslie <s.v.elyse@... wrote:
Yes Bob,
Traditional alternators can be a problem.
Remember though that on our boats there is a 1:2 ratio between engine rpm and alternator rpm so when the engine is doing 1000rpm the alternator is doing 2000.
This is where alternators like Delstar and Idlepro Extreme come into their own. These are 220/250amp alternators that can deliver 80-90% of rated output @ 2000 alternator rpm.
The standard LN175 can't do that and if you increase the rpm to produce more amps it will only do it for a while before everything turns to custard. 
We have big battery banks that can have very high charge acceptance rates with AGM,  firefly or lithium batteries,  so you need to think about these things very carefully in designing and operating a system that will achieve what you want safely.
Cheers 
Alan
Elyse SM 437 

Re: Question about Cutlass bearing change

Matt Salatino
 

We had CopperCoat on our previous boat. It is now going on 6 years. It’s been sanded ONCE, before we splashed it for the first time.
It’s never been pressure washed.
We followed the application instructions, to the letter, and it’s been good for us.
We’ve heard some horror stories about it, and in every case, it was improperly applied.
Big ships don’t need to use it as they can use TriButyl Tin based paint. Highly toxic to sea life and people, long lasting, and illegal to use on recreational boats in most countries. I believe it’s still available in Trinidad.

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Nov 28, 2019, at 11:43 AM, Arnold Mente via Groups.Io <Arnold.mente@...> wrote:

Hi Paul,
be informed, Coppercoat needs a regular service with cleaning with pressure wash and sanding so the copper comes get activated and comes to the surface!
I am not opportune against Coppercoat, but why the commercial ships don't use it? For 3 years in water you can use a GOOD antifouling and paint it again. But according the AMEL service plan it is a 2 years  rhythm to haul out. A friend of mine, also a SM got problems after 5 years and he let the job do again. He is one money takes no matter! He is happy so far there is someone who do the Job! The cutless bearing (think you mean the C-Drive bearing) needs a replacement all 2 years or 800 h.

Arnold
SY Zephyr
SM203


Am 28.11.2019 um 16:51 schrieb Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...>:

Hi all,
 
How often is it recommended that the Amel 54 cutlass bearing be changed? Mine was last changed 6 years ago and I have not seen any sign of water ingress in the oil since, not experienced any problems. Reason I ask is that I will soon be having a coppercoat put on after which I hope to avoid hauling out for an extended period. Perhaps I should also replace the rudder post stuffing at the same time seeing as the plastic collar is now extremely tight to prevent leakage.
 
Cheers,
Paul
S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98
 

-- 
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98



--
SY Zephyr SM203

Re: Question about Cutlass bearing change

Arno Luijten
 

Preventative Maintenance is key to happy boatlife. Waiting until the propshaft seal starts leaking is a guarantee it will happen at the least practical point in time. Doing it earlier means  you can determine the place and time. Same applies to the stuffing box for the rudder shaft. If you see the nut is almost fully tightened into the box, replace the stuffing material and the nut. Do not forget to use PFTE tape on the thread of the nut.

Regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121

Re: Loose screws in portlight stainless trem

Symphony
 

Mark - I have laughed for two hours over "The Devil's Glue" - excellent.  I've never fought 5200 but I have read enough sad stories.  
I agree that 4200 is strong enough as I have used it in a few difficult spots, such as holding a sink up to the underside of a countertop, and it is amazing.

I am in the process of rebedding the 14 year old windshields on my boat.  The manufacturer suggested I use SIKAFLEX 290DC which was their OEM spec.  The bedding has lasted well, even with a few years in Florida sun, and only weeps when hit with direct splash or driving rain.

Happy holidays to all - we're close to the solstice up here in the north and over the hump towards another boating season.

Richard
Vicem 58 "Songbird"
New Haven, CT

Re: Mizzen furler

Randall
 

Pat,
Not so easy! The part with the gear tooth that that broke only broke when it was being unscrewed. The white Delrin bushing had adhered to the shaft (like it was glued with super glue) if you look at the picture you will see the corrosion. I only unscrewed the bottom because there was grinding sound coming from the ball bearings. Turned out to be a build up of corrosion and salt. in order to undo the bottom I drilled a bar with holes the size of the 2 on the bottom of the furler and inserted 2 old drill bits to make 2 tooth tool.
I know it sounds complicated, but wasn't and I can now unfurl the mizzen with just pulling the sheet by hand.
In the end the stiff squeaky furler was only failing due to the bushings and after the complete disassemble I learned silicone lube is not what is needed.  Clean the bushings period.

Randall
AMEL 54 #56

On Thu, Nov 28, 2019 at 3:00 PM Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Randall, It looks as though the tooth broke nearly completely off ,its hard to understand when enough force would ever be applied on the gear to break it off. Sounds like things came apart for you easier than for others ,probably due to your boat being newer than the SMs. I think I may try to disassemble mine just to clean it up, if I can without resorting to extreme measures. 
Good luck finding the part,
Pat
SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: Randall Walker <sailingalbedo@...>
To: main <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Thu, Nov 28, 2019 8:17 am
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Mizzen furler

Pat I took the mizzen furler off yesterday It was an easy task I took it to complete disassembly stage. Bill sent me the info on the disassembly leave the sail on undo the bolt holding it to the sail foil lift the foil with the sail halyard up 2 inches undo the 2 bolts on the outside of the mast and slide the unit out then you need to disassemble the unit.
I first removed the allen bolt from inside the crank and then attempted to unscrew the part that holds the Delrin/Teflon bushings clean then reassemble. I took it one step further and unscrewed the bottom part of the furler and cleaned the bearings and reassembled. You will see the gear on mine is damaged from corrosion ( I will source a replacement gear) 

Randall A54#56

On Wed, Nov 27, 2019 at 2:40 PM Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Danny, I wish we had not already drained our water system, the marina has as well, its starting to get cold here.I think I will take the gearbox apart and take home ,clean & grease. I may pull the masts to put the boat in a shed for repairs and to be repainted this winter . I am not really sure I want to be " gob smacked " ,sounds painful , but being married I am use to abuse, and if the mizzen furls easier that it might be worth it .
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans



-----Original Message-----
From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...>
To: main <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Sent: Tue, Nov 26, 2019 8:17 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Mizzen furler

Hi Pat,
Almost certain to be salt build up. The carribean salt is brutal. Rinse all moving parts with floods of fresh water. Over the top of the gearbox,up the input shaft, the swivel or spinner as I call it at the top of the sail. (Lower it first). all blocks, cars, turning blocks. Allow to dry and liberally apply silicone spray. You will be gob smacked at the result. To unfurl my mizzen since I did this I just pull the out haul by hand and brrrrrrt out it goes. I know its too simple and I expect some cynicism, but give it a try. 
Regards
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl
On 27 November 2019 at 08:34 "Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io" <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:

When we unfurled the mizzen sail to store it for the winter the sail came out but then became difficult to turn. The furler will only turn about a quarter of the way either direction. Its not the swivel where the sail's head attaches . I have never had an issue with the furler until now. I suppose it could be the furler's gear box , but my question is. Is there a bearing at the top of the mast that may be causing the binding ? I need to decide to pull or not ,both of the masts by next Monday and put the boat in a shed to repaint ,or leave the mast up and have it painted outside. I was leaning towards leaving the masts up until this problem,if its a bearing at the top of the mast it would be easier to deal with on the ground.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans

Re: Question about Cutlass bearing change

Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown
 

Arnold,

 

Thanks for that. I think I have all I need.

 

 

Cheers,

Paul

S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Arnold Mente via Groups.Io
Sent: 28 November 2019 13:15
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Question about Cutlass bearing change

 

Hi Paul,

 

in the attachment you can find the official paper for maintenance for SM, to be the same for 54 is to clarify. Ask Maude of SAV Amel La Rochel.

 she will send you also the seals-

 

BR

 

Arnold

 

Am 28.11.2019 um 18:05 schrieb Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...>:

 

Arnold,

 

Thanks for your good advice and for answering my question. But I must admit it does leave me asking why after not changing it for 6 years I have not experienced any problem at all. I tend to subscribe to the “if it ain’t bust don’t fix it” maxim … usually, but not always!

 

Cheers,

Paul

S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Arnold Mente via Groups.Io
Sent: 28 November 2019 12:43
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Question about Cutlass bearing change

 

Hi Paul,

be informed, Coppercoat needs a regular service with cleaning with pressure wash and sanding so the copper comes get activated and comes to the surface!

I am not opportune against Coppercoat, but why the commercial ships don't use it? For 3 years in water you can use a GOOD antifouling and paint it again. But according the AMEL service plan it is a 2 years  rhythm to haul out. A friend of mine, also a SM got problems after 5 years and he let the job do again. He is one money takes no matter! He is happy so far there is someone who do the Job! The cutless bearing (think you mean the C-Drive bearing) needs a replacement all 2 years or 800 h.

 

Arnold

SY Zephyr

SM203

 

 

Am 28.11.2019 um 16:51 schrieb Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...>:

 

Hi all,

 

How often is it recommended that the Amel 54 cutlass bearing be changed? Mine was last changed 6 years ago and I have not seen any sign of water ingress in the oil since, not experienced any problems. Reason I ask is that I will soon be having a coppercoat put on after which I hope to avoid hauling out for an extended period. Perhaps I should also replace the rudder post stuffing at the same time seeing as the plastic collar is now extremely tight to prevent leakage.

 

Cheers,

Paul

S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98

 


-- 
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98

 


-- 
SY Zephyr SM203 


-- 
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98

 


--
SY Zephyr SM203


--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98

Re: Bowthruster works only one way

ngtnewington Newington
 

Hi Paul,

For starters:

I would check the connections at the lever by the helm to make sure they are good. It could be a poor contact there.

Then with one person at the helm control and another in the forward locker check the switches. You can should hear a click when thrusting and figure out which one is which.

I had an intermittent fault with the up down control. Turned out to be one of the four relay switches. Sometimes it was good sometimes not. Replaced it, and no problems since.

Nick

S/Y Amelia AML 54
Kilada Greece

On 28 Nov 2019, at 18:24, Ian <parkianj@...> wrote:

Paul
Not the bow thruster but I did have failure in one direction only of the furling motors while in the Caribbean. Both times it was the contacts on the switches which needed cleaning up. Worth a check.

Best wishes

Ian

‘Ocean Hobo’ SN96


Re: Bowthruster works only one way

Ian Park
 

Paul
Not the bow thruster but I did have failure in one direction only of the furling motors while in the Caribbean. Both times it was the contacts on the switches which needed cleaning up. Worth a check.

Best wishes

Ian

‘Ocean Hobo’ SN96

Re: Question about Cutlass bearing change

Arnold Mente
 

Hi Paul,

in the attachment you can find the official paper for maintenance for SM, to be the same for 54 is to clarify. Ask Maude of SAV Amel La Rochel.
 she will send you also the seals-

BR

Arnold

Am 28.11.2019 um 18:05 schrieb Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...>:

Arnold,
 
Thanks for your good advice and for answering my question. But I must admit it does leave me asking why after not changing it for 6 years I have not experienced any problem at all. I tend to subscribe to the “if it ain’t bust don’t fix it” maxim … usually, but not always!
 
Cheers,
Paul
S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98
 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Arnold Mente via Groups.Io
Sent: 28 November 2019 12:43
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Question about Cutlass bearing change
 
Hi Paul,
be informed, Coppercoat needs a regular service with cleaning with pressure wash and sanding so the copper comes get activated and comes to the surface!
I am not opportune against Coppercoat, but why the commercial ships don't use it? For 3 years in water you can use a GOOD antifouling and paint it again. But according the AMEL service plan it is a 2 years  rhythm to haul out. A friend of mine, also a SM got problems after 5 years and he let the job do again. He is one money takes no matter! He is happy so far there is someone who do the Job! The cutless bearing (think you mean the C-Drive bearing) needs a replacement all 2 years or 800 h.
 
Arnold
SY Zephyr
SM203
 
 
Am 28.11.2019 um 16:51 schrieb Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...>:
 
Hi all,
 
How often is it recommended that the Amel 54 cutlass bearing be changed? Mine was last changed 6 years ago and I have not seen any sign of water ingress in the oil since, not experienced any problems. Reason I ask is that I will soon be having a coppercoat put on after which I hope to avoid hauling out for an extended period. Perhaps I should also replace the rudder post stuffing at the same time seeing as the plastic collar is now extremely tight to prevent leakage.
 
Cheers,
Paul
S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98
 

-- 
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98

 


-- 
SY Zephyr SM203 


-- 
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98

--
SY Zephyr SM203

Bowthruster works only one way

Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown
 

Hi all,

 

After coming back to our boat having left it unused for 6 months I fin that the bowthruster works to port but not to starboard. I’ve had a look at the terminals and can’t see anything obvious. Any suggestions as to where to look would be most welcome.

 

Cheers,

Paul

S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98

 


--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98

Re: Question about Cutlass bearing change

Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown
 

Arnold,

 

Thanks for your good advice and for answering my question. But I must admit it does leave me asking why after not changing it for 6 years I have not experienced any problem at all. I tend to subscribe to the “if it ain’t bust don’t fix it” maxim … usually, but not always!

 

Cheers,

Paul

S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Arnold Mente via Groups.Io
Sent: 28 November 2019 12:43
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Question about Cutlass bearing change

 

Hi Paul,

be informed, Coppercoat needs a regular service with cleaning with pressure wash and sanding so the copper comes get activated and comes to the surface!

I am not opportune against Coppercoat, but why the commercial ships don't use it? For 3 years in water you can use a GOOD antifouling and paint it again. But according the AMEL service plan it is a 2 years  rhythm to haul out. A friend of mine, also a SM got problems after 5 years and he let the job do again. He is one money takes no matter! He is happy so far there is someone who do the Job! The cutless bearing (think you mean the C-Drive bearing) needs a replacement all 2 years or 800 h.

 

Arnold

SY Zephyr

SM203

 

 

Am 28.11.2019 um 16:51 schrieb Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...>:

 

Hi all,

 

How often is it recommended that the Amel 54 cutlass bearing be changed? Mine was last changed 6 years ago and I have not seen any sign of water ingress in the oil since, not experienced any problems. Reason I ask is that I will soon be having a coppercoat put on after which I hope to avoid hauling out for an extended period. Perhaps I should also replace the rudder post stuffing at the same time seeing as the plastic collar is now extremely tight to prevent leakage.

 

Cheers,

Paul

S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98

 


-- 
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98

 


--
SY Zephyr SM203


--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98

Re: Question about Cutlass bearing change

Arnold Mente
 

Hi Paul,
be informed, Coppercoat needs a regular service with cleaning with pressure wash and sanding so the copper comes get activated and comes to the surface!
I am not opportune against Coppercoat, but why the commercial ships don't use it? For 3 years in water you can use a GOOD antifouling and paint it again. But according the AMEL service plan it is a 2 years  rhythm to haul out. A friend of mine, also a SM got problems after 5 years and he let the job do again. He is one money takes no matter! He is happy so far there is someone who do the Job! The cutless bearing (think you mean the C-Drive bearing) needs a replacement all 2 years or 800 h.

Arnold
SY Zephyr
SM203


Am 28.11.2019 um 16:51 schrieb Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...>:

Hi all,
 
How often is it recommended that the Amel 54 cutlass bearing be changed? Mine was last changed 6 years ago and I have not seen any sign of water ingress in the oil since, not experienced any problems. Reason I ask is that I will soon be having a coppercoat put on after which I hope to avoid hauling out for an extended period. Perhaps I should also replace the rudder post stuffing at the same time seeing as the plastic collar is now extremely tight to prevent leakage.
 
Cheers,
Paul
S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98
 

-- 
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98



--
SY Zephyr SM203

Question about Cutlass bearing change

Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown
 

Hi all,

 

How often is it recommended that the Amel 54 cutlass bearing be changed? Mine was last changed 6 years ago and I have not seen any sign of water ingress in the oil since, not experienced any problems. Reason I ask is that I will soon be having a coppercoat put on after which I hope to avoid hauling out for an extended period. Perhaps I should also replace the rudder post stuffing at the same time seeing as the plastic collar is now extremely tight to prevent leakage.

 

Cheers,

Paul

S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98

 


--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98

Re: Loose screws in portlight stainless trem

Giovanni TESTA
 

Hi Kristy,
sorry, I mean the windshield plexiglass in front of companionway _right.
Giovanni
sv EUTIKIA SM428
now at Preveza (GR)

Il 28/11/2019 16:25, karkauai via Groups.Io ha scritto:
Hi Giovanni.  On SM 243 the portlights were sealed with a LOT of clear silicone caulk.  That made removing the wooden panels inside very difficult.  If you use anything stronger than that you will never get the panels off without destroying them.

Kent & Iris
Kristy
Heading S from the Chesapeake in about 2weeks.

On Nov 28, 2019, at 5:03 AM, Giovanni TESTA <giovannitesta53@...> wrote:


Hi to all,
this is other test : https://www.pbo.co.uk/gear/which-adhesive-sealant-is-best-20877
Any experience which the best to seal windshield ? Sika 295 UV vs 3M 4200FC Marine ?
Many thanks
Giovanni Testa
sv EUTIKIA SM 428


Il 27/11/2019 14:52, Mark McGovern ha scritto:
Duane,

I second Craig's suggestion.  Plus, if it fails in less than 50 years Craig will come and personally fix it for you. ;)

3M 5200 is known as "The Devil's Glue" and should really only be used on things that you never, ever, want to take apart again.  Offhand, I can't think of a single place on my SM that I would use it in place of something that is almost as strong but way more removable like 3M 4200. 

Here's a pretty good article on marine adhesives from Practical Sailor:  https://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/36_8/features/Marine-Adhesives-Caulks_5953-1.html

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA


Re: Loose screws in portlight stainless trem

karkauai
 

Hi Giovanni.  On SM 243 the portlights were sealed with a LOT of clear silicone caulk.  That made removing the wooden panels inside very difficult.  If you use anything stronger than that you will never get the panels off without destroying them.

Kent & Iris
Kristy
Heading S from the Chesapeake in about 2weeks.

On Nov 28, 2019, at 5:03 AM, Giovanni TESTA <giovannitesta53@...> wrote:


Hi to all,
this is other test : https://www.pbo.co.uk/gear/which-adhesive-sealant-is-best-20877
Any experience which the best to seal windshield ? Sika 295 UV vs 3M 4200FC Marine ?
Many thanks
Giovanni Testa
sv EUTIKIA SM 428


Il 27/11/2019 14:52, Mark McGovern ha scritto:
Duane,

I second Craig's suggestion.  Plus, if it fails in less than 50 years Craig will come and personally fix it for you. ;)

3M 5200 is known as "The Devil's Glue" and should really only be used on things that you never, ever, want to take apart again.  Offhand, I can't think of a single place on my SM that I would use it in place of something that is almost as strong but way more removable like 3M 4200. 

Here's a pretty good article on marine adhesives from Practical Sailor:  https://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/36_8/features/Marine-Adhesives-Caulks_5953-1.html

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA

Re: Mizzen furler

Patrick McAneny
 

Randall, It looks as though the tooth broke nearly completely off ,its hard to understand when enough force would ever be applied on the gear to break it off. Sounds like things came apart for you easier than for others ,probably due to your boat being newer than the SMs. I think I may try to disassemble mine just to clean it up, if I can without resorting to extreme measures. 
Good luck finding the part,
Pat
SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: Randall Walker <sailingalbedo@...>
To: main <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Thu, Nov 28, 2019 8:17 am
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Mizzen furler

Pat I took the mizzen furler off yesterday It was an easy task I took it to complete disassembly stage. Bill sent me the info on the disassembly leave the sail on undo the bolt holding it to the sail foil lift the foil with the sail halyard up 2 inches undo the 2 bolts on the outside of the mast and slide the unit out then you need to disassemble the unit.
I first removed the allen bolt from inside the crank and then attempted to unscrew the part that holds the Delrin/Teflon bushings clean then reassemble. I took it one step further and unscrewed the bottom part of the furler and cleaned the bearings and reassembled. You will see the gear on mine is damaged from corrosion ( I will source a replacement gear) 

Randall A54#56

On Wed, Nov 27, 2019 at 2:40 PM Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Danny, I wish we had not already drained our water system, the marina has as well, its starting to get cold here.I think I will take the gearbox apart and take home ,clean & grease. I may pull the masts to put the boat in a shed for repairs and to be repainted this winter . I am not really sure I want to be " gob smacked " ,sounds painful , but being married I am use to abuse, and if the mizzen furls easier that it might be worth it .
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans



-----Original Message-----
From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...>
To: main <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Sent: Tue, Nov 26, 2019 8:17 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Mizzen furler

Hi Pat,
Almost certain to be salt build up. The carribean salt is brutal. Rinse all moving parts with floods of fresh water. Over the top of the gearbox,up the input shaft, the swivel or spinner as I call it at the top of the sail. (Lower it first). all blocks, cars, turning blocks. Allow to dry and liberally apply silicone spray. You will be gob smacked at the result. To unfurl my mizzen since I did this I just pull the out haul by hand and brrrrrrt out it goes. I know its too simple and I expect some cynicism, but give it a try. 
Regards
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl
On 27 November 2019 at 08:34 "Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io" <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:

When we unfurled the mizzen sail to store it for the winter the sail came out but then became difficult to turn. The furler will only turn about a quarter of the way either direction. Its not the swivel where the sail's head attaches . I have never had an issue with the furler until now. I suppose it could be the furler's gear box , but my question is. Is there a bearing at the top of the mast that may be causing the binding ? I need to decide to pull or not ,both of the masts by next Monday and put the boat in a shed to repaint ,or leave the mast up and have it painted outside. I was leaning towards leaving the masts up until this problem,if its a bearing at the top of the mast it would be easier to deal with on the ground.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans