Date   

Re: Additional ZOOM Meetings #ZOOM

Teun BAAS
 

Bill,

 

I think that insurance is a very big issue. I have now approached 6 to 7 agents/companies mentioned on our AYOG Forum and get very conflicting reasons of not willing to write insurance, like:

 

  1. You are USA citizen (although I pointed out several times I am NOT – I am a DUTCH citizen).
  2. But you do have a USA address (correct but I can give you legal non-USA addresses)
  3. You are NOT a USA citizen or resident (I am a LEGAL USA resident since 1986 and just had my green card renewed in February for 10 years) and this policy is specifically for USA citizens and/or residents and/or boats and/or ….
  4. You don’t have a USA address (YES I do – pls see the application)
  5. We don’t cover your navigational limits (AUSTRALIA etc.)

 

In talking to agents recommended via our AYOG forum I realize few of them remember/recognize the AMEL specific 6 or 7 watertight compartments so they tell me I need additional pumps on board; our overbuild rigging etc. etc.; and tell me I need to renew my rigging (just surveyed in December 2019 in COOMERA) because it is now 10 years old.

 

In all honesty: agency on #3 and #4 is now looking at this again after I wrote back I was a USA resident and had a USA address she replied she was going to look into this.

 

I know I am not the only AMEL owner having this problem – another member mentioned on the forum maybe looking at organizing our own group insurance (maybe via LLOYDS ?? they are used to write unusual policies)

 

Best Regards Teun

SV AMELIT  A54  #128

 

COOMERA (near BRISBANE) QLD AUSTRALIA

May 1, 2020 10:02:02

 

USA cell: +1 832 477 8842

AUSTRALIA cell: +61 5951 8909

 

You can follow AMELIT via this link: https://forecast.predictwind.com/tracking/display/AMELIT

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of CW Bill Rouse via groups.io
Sent: Friday, May 1, 2020 08:46
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [Special] [AmelYachtOwners] Additional ZOOM Meetings #ZOOM

 

All,

The most common suggestion that I have received regarding the ZOOM meetings is to have expert guest speakers on subjects that are of interest to most of the members. I have contacted people I know, respect, and consider experts. I am awaiting replies from experts on:

Sails

Refrigeration 

Standing Rigging
Dessalator

Lithium Solutions
I also asked Antoine RIOTON from Amel to do a presentation on the Amel 50/60

Another suggestion I had was to find an "...Insurance Adjuster, whose role it is to be the interpreter of the policy, protecting only the insurance company in order to minimize liability and expenses.  This expert is the one we need to come and talk to us about insurance and how to get the best policy for the most reasonable price." I am aware of public marine insurance adjusters in Florida but have no direct knowledge of any of these.

Comments welcome.

I will keep you informed.
--

 

Best,

 

CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970


Re: Additional ZOOM Meetings #ZOOM

Arlo
 

That would be awesome Bill. I couldnt attend the last meeting as I had a conflict with my work schedule but looking forward to more of these calls.


Additional ZOOM Meetings #ZOOM

 

All,

The most common suggestion that I have received regarding the ZOOM meetings is to have expert guest speakers on subjects that are of interest to most of the members. I have contacted people I know, respect, and consider experts. I am awaiting replies from experts on:
Sails
Refrigeration 
Standing Rigging
Dessalator
Lithium Solutions
I also asked Antoine RIOTON from Amel to do a presentation on the Amel 50/60
Another suggestion I had was to find an "...Insurance Adjuster, whose role it is to be the interpreter of the policy, protecting only the insurance company in order to minimize liability and expenses.  This expert is the one we need to come and talk to us about insurance and how to get the best policy for the most reasonable price." I am aware of public marine insurance adjusters in Florida but have no direct knowledge of any of these.

Comments welcome.

I will keep you informed.
--
 
Best,
 
CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970


Re: OPACMARE gangway not rotating

Arno Luijten
 

Hi Carina,

You were very fortunate. Our actuator was seized up so bad that the whole workshop of FKG hydraulics here in St. Maarten found no way to disassemble the thing. I suppose if there is still some motion in the actuator you will be able to take it apart. That seems good news for Chiara.

To your comments about Opacmare. Yes we had trouble with them as well, although not as bad as you describe. On the other hand , a fellow boat owner had a passerelle from a different manufacturer and he also suffered huge communication and cooperation problems with that vendor. Apparently business for these people to too good to care about after-sales... Me thinks that will have changed post-covid time.

REgards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


Re: OPACMARE gangway not rotating

luvkante
 

Arno,

that diagnosis is a shock!
I have to sit down and reflect, what to do.
Because CHIARA is currently in Varazze/Italy, I currently have no access.
As soon as I am back on board, I will see, what to do.

Martin
AMEL 54 # 149
CHIARA


Re: Volvo D3 oil pressure

amelforme
 

Hello Paul and keep us posted on what you discover. Be sure to get a spectrographic test as it will tell precisely, in parts per million/ppm, of everything in the oil other than the oil itself. Most of the chemical based tests just indicate the presence of wear elements but not the proportions.

 

Good luck with it all, Joel

      

 

       JOEL F. POTTER-CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST~L.L.C.

                                           THE  EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY

UNSURPASSED AMEL MARKETING EXPERIENCE AND PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE

                                   Office 954-462-5869  Cell 954-812-2485

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown
Sent: Friday, May 1, 2020 4:41 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Volvo D3 oil pressure

 

Joel,

 

Thanks for this advice. About the pressure, he measured 30psi when it should have been 80. I’ll wait for opinion from the other engineer looking into this. He should also be able to change the oil and get an analysis done.

 

Cheers,

Paul

S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada


Re: OPACMARE gangway not rotating

CARINA HAMMARLUND
 

Hi Martin,
we had the exact problem 3 years ago. After trying to communicate with Opacmare for over a month we gave up and took it apart ourselves.
the problem was corrosion. This is a very heave piece of equipment!
Conny constructed a tool himself to be able to take it apart, but I guess you can find such a tool at a well equipped tool shop. We did this at Spice Island Marina in Grenada. Conny donated the tool to Oscar, the mechanical manager at the yard.

Before taking it apart conny sprayed it with oil to dissolve the corrosion, days before trying to take it apart. It’s extremely important to clean it so you find the hole for the small Alan key that is the lock screw in the threading between the engine house and the ring you want to turn to take it apart.
it was 4 people working together to take it apart because it was so stuck! Arm yourself with a big portion of patience:)))

when it was disassembled he cleaned it and he also drilled a hole from the side and put in a grease nipple.

If you want to discuss it more in detail please send a pm to us and we can have a video call, Conny is happy to share what he learned in the process with you.


finally I must make a comment on Opacmare.
They where not helpful at all, they were not interested in sharing knowledge on how to repair the gangway they just wanted to sell us a new engine for 3000 euro!
Conny managed to repair ours for 7 euro!!!
but it was hard work.

Carina
SV Ultimo
Amel 54 No 165


Re: Volvo D3 oil pressure

Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown
 

Joel,

 

Thanks for this advice. About the pressure, he measured 30psi when it should have been 80. I’ll wait for opinion from the other engineer looking into this. He should also be able to change the oil and get an analysis done.

 

Cheers,

Paul

S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of amelforme
Sent: 30 April 2020 17:56
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Cc: jfpottercys@...
Subject: FW: [AmelYachtOwners] Volvo D3 oil pressure

 

Hello Paul. I had Amel 54 # 14. I did all the maintenance myself and had the workshop manual for the Volvo. I actually read the whole thing to full familiarize myself with this engine as I also previously had a SM 53 with a Volvo diesel. It was plenty of trouble for a brand new engine. Volvo ended up giving me a new replacement. I had been pushing hard for years with Mr. Carteau , Amel’s Chairman and Technical Director, to try Yanmar engines. We  soon did for North America and for Europe a little bit later. Amel went back to Volvo for the Amel 54 as it was a FADAC/computer controlled diesel that met the new and stricter emissions regulations as Yanmar did not quite have an available emissions compliant diesel in the required horsepower range. My Volvo D3 had several sensor failures with the computer control sensors. The first one was with the first potential client on the first sea trial  and I was ignominiously towed back to the dock . Not a good start…

Never had any mechanical problems with it and it didn’t use any oil between 100 hour changes either. The sensor problems did persist though and then vanished never to return. I hate head scratchers like that.

 

Amel switched to Pathfinder/marinized Volkswagen diesels, not to get away from Volvo as many assume but rather because Volvo decided  suddenly and with scant warning to quit building the D3 with the isolated negative/full earth return electrical system that Amel required. I believe one 54 got a Steyr diesel which, in my opinion,  is one of the best designed and built marine diesel engine with dealers all over the world.

 

Comments below. See if you can get the details I outlined from the gentleman who took the mechanical gauge oil pressure test.

 

All the Best, Joel         

 

       JOEL F. POTTER-CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST~L.L.C.

                                           THE  EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY

UNSURPASSED AMEL MARKETING EXPERIENCE AND PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE

                                   Office 954-462-5869  Cell 954-812-2485

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2020 7:03 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Volvo oil pressure

 

Many thanks to all who have replied. I’ll try to reply to the feedback.

 

This problem occurred immediately after an oil and oil filter change. I got the engineer involved after a few days when it started giving the warning whilst still at 1100rpm. The first thing the engineer did was to change the filter again for a genuine Volvo filter. That would tend to eliminate the check valve in the oil filter. Was the fresh oil added 4 hours ago the correct viscosity? Was it quality/branded oil like Shell Rotella or similar?

 

Re. oil analysis: Joel, as the oil is fresh – probably no more than 4 hours –  I doubt an analysis will yield anything significant – or am I wrong about that? More hours is better until you exceed recommended intervals. However, if the pressure is failing because of the clearances increasing, you will be shedding metal and this will be discernible at 4 hours. If you change the oil save some for a test if it later becomes obvious that it would be the correct thing to do. Take the sample from the last third of the oil extracted for best results.

The fact that the oil pressure is gradually getting worse would make me opt for a spectrographic analysis before any parts come off the engine. It is not expensive.

 

Re. oil consumption: The engine does not burn or lose any oil. That is encouraging.

 

Re. hours: engine hours are 1975.Way too young for self-destruction internally unless the engine was severely overheated or overloaded. If it is internal failure it would probably be due to manufacturers defect.

 

Re. historic maintenance – I have no details but I do know the boat had been extremely well taken care of so I doubt there is an issue here.

 

Re. pressure: I about the pressure, I didn’t personally take notes, but the engineer did measure the pressure using the external gauge at different rpm, up to about 2500 if I remember correctly. I am away from the boat and have asked them to send me this info. So, the mechanical gauge, for certain, confirmed that oil pressure at idle and up to around 1100RPM was below safe limits? If you can get the fellow who took the measurements to comment  about the following as he ran the RPM higher than 1100RPM it would be quite helpful…

Was the pressure increase linear or was it ‘jerky’ with plateaus and jumps?

As RPMs were increased, did the oil pressure always seem lower than what would be normal at that RPM?

If the oil pressure caught up with what would be considered normal, at what RPM did that happen?

 

Re. Pressure relief valve – I know nothing about that and it was not mentioned. Re. pump safety valve – again I have no knowledge about this and it was not mentioned. Oil pumps and associated regulating equipment are usually  carefully engineered and built to exacting standards as if these units fail everything else immediately follows suit. They seldom fail and when they do it is usually an immediate and catastrophic failure and not an incremental one. There are always exceptions…

 

Unfortunately I am away from the boat now until October. It is being looked after and I have contacted a friend who is an engineer in Grenada to investigate further. My concern is that if there is any bad weather the boat is not mobile – not a good situation.

 

Latest from the engineer: I would recommend to proceed with the following  after an oil analysis is completed as if the oil analysis tells of a failing engine the rest of this is unnecessary. It is usually not cost effective to rebuild  modern FADEC diesel  engines, particularly one that was in self consumption mode.

 

We can simply change the oil and filter, using Volvo filter and 15W40 HD oil as recommended, install a new pressure sensor and see what happens. If that isn't effective, there is a valve in the oil pump which could be stuck but because of your poor access we don't think the pump can come out without lifting the engine. The pump is on the crankshaft, behind the timing belt pulley(best replace that belt too) and this needs to be extracted; Stef says he doubts there would be room to get a puller between the engine and the bulkhead. The suction tube has a strainer and this could be blocked. The engine sump must be removed for this so engine definitely needs to come out. The sensor is not expensive, Euro 26.33 + freight. The valve is E 61.33, belt E 207.78, strainer E 61.33, seal E 25.11, gaskets and o-rings not much. Pump is not cheap at E 368.89. You suggested a new pump; I have not seen one give trouble, but I haven't seen this problem on a D3 before.

 So, how would you like us to proceed? The prices I gave are list, exclusive of shipping and brokerage. We can order just the sensor and replace this, the oil and filter and run her up in a couple of hours. If the problem is still there then I think she's gonna need to come out. The freight for just one sensor won't be very efficient and unfortunately I don't have much else to order right now- I try to get a list of parts together and spread the freight costs around, but if you are in a hurry, which with a disabled engine and the boat in the water I guess there must be some sense of urgency...

 

Cheers,

Paul

S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of amelforme
Sent: 29 April 2020 22:05
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Cc: jfpottercys@...
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Volvo oil pressure

 

Paul, a bit more information is needed to give you some help.

How many hours are on the engine now?

How many hours are on the oil in the crankcase now?

Did you get maintenance logs at the purchase that showed good habits regarding regular oil changes? What were the months and hour intervals if so?

Did this problem started immediately after a new oil filter and fresh engine oil were installed? Or was it several hours or days later?

Testing with a mechanical/non-electric oil pressure gauge confirmed that what you were reading from the helm mounted instrumentation was correct ?

Did oil pressure increase with higher engine RPM in a linear pattern, not increase at all or very little, or immediately increase by a great deal? This is very important  

 to know.

Does the engine burn more than a liter of oil  in 50 hours of running time?

Did the Volvo dealer immediately suggest engine removal with out any other testing?

 Did anyone suggest that you have a spectrographic engine oil analysis performed ? Do a web search on this. Not expensive and extremely telling about the engines  

internal mechanical condition.

 Slowly decreasing oil pressure is most often an indication of internal engine wear that increases/opens the tolerances/gaps between components like bearings and bearing journals.       

  I will await and respond to your answers but I would strongly suggest changing the engine oil filter and if nothing changes then obtaining a spectrographic engine oil analysis before the engine  is removed. The oil analysis will, for sure, tell you plenty about the engines’ relative health. Much the same as getting your blood work done before a visit to your medical practitioner.

 

All The best, Joel

 

 

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Paul Dowd an

d Sharon Brown
Sent: Wednesday, April 29, 2020 2:21 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Volvo oil pressure

 

Hi all,

 

I have a Volvo D3-110i-C with low oil pressure. I’m told by the local Volvo dealer that the engine will have to be taken out in order to replace the oil pump. I’m wondering what other factor may cause low oil pressure. Any opinion on this would be most welcome.

 

A bit of history on the problem. I changed the oil and oil filter after 188 engine hours which was 3 years. I then started getting low pressure warning after reducing from 1100rpm to idle. I checked the oil level and topped up to the top of the mark. After a couple of days I started getting low pressure warning whilst running at 1100rpm (to heat water). This was confirmed when the engineer attached a pressure gauge.

 

Cheers,

Paul

S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada

 


--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98


--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98


--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98


AMEL OLDER MARAMU AFT BERTH CONVERSION

Alejandro Paquin
 

Hello,
Does anyone in this group have an older Maramu with individual bunks in the aft cabin, and have any experience converting these bunks into a larger sized bed? And if yes how was this done?
--
Alex Paquin
S/V " SIMPATICO"
Amel Maramu
Hull #94, 1981


Re: OPACMARE gangway not rotating

Arno Luijten
 

Hi Danny,

The electro-hydraulic passerelle uses a rotational actuator very much like the one in this picture.



It uses hydraulic pressure to move the disc in the middle to go up and down. There is a sort of helix shape in the middle that causes the face at the top to twist when the disc moves. The base of the unit is bolted to the boat. This unit takes up all the weight and forces of the gangway on top of the unit.

Now imagine this at the back of the boat in a way that allows seawater to stand on the face for extended periods. Also imagine this thing made from mild steel. You can expect it will give you trouble with corrosion at the point where the stationary and the moving part meet sooner or later. What I did is put a sort of lid on top of this face sandwiched between the actuator and the actual gangway. Any water drops on the (Stainless) lid. Between the lid and the actuator I put as much lanolin grease as possible so water cannot get inbetween. Given the existing design this was the best way I could think of without major surgery on the construction.

Hope that helps,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


Re: Top loading galley fridge/freezer used as a fridge: No?

Oliver Henrichsen, SV Vela Nautica
 

Hello,

We used this kind of gasket for top lid. It has an integrated magnet and pulls the gasket closed to magnetic surfaces

Oliver from Vela Nautica Amel54 #39 
Martinique 

On Thu, Apr 30, 2020, 12:28 Mark & Debbie Mueller <brass.ring@...> wrote:

Freezer Seals for Amel 54 – I purchased from Zoro.com  EPDM Seal, D-Section, 0.75 In W, 25 Ft  by TRIM LOK INC; Zoro #: G3897214| Mfr #: X1458BT.  The 25' roll did both the chest and the bench.  They seem to run less now but still living with the poor insulation.

--
Mark Mueller
Brass Ring  A54


Re: OPACMARE gangway not rotating

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi,

first I must make a disclaimer, as  SM owner I have never had anything to do with the pasaralle on a 54. However I understand it swivels on a vertical shaft in a tube. The problem arose after an offshore passage. There is a very high level possibility that friction created by salt crystals formed between the shaft and the tube as the water evaporates is the culprit. Simple rinsing with fresh water regularly will prevent this. If it is constructed of mild steel (surely not???) then obviously, given salts impressive ability to cause corrosion, if left it will soon change from a salt crystal problem to corrosion and application of high quality corrosion resistant lubricant following the rinsing is essential but be careful this does not entrap future salt crystals.

The swivels at the top of the main, mizzen and headsails suffer from the salt crystal problem causing friction, and in advanced cases seizing, particularly after extended offshore passages. In their case, being manufactured of less corrosion susceptible material simple flushing with fresh water provides a cure.

Kind Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 01 May 2020 at 07:57 Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:

You are confronted with the poor design of an otherwise very nice piece of hardware on your boat. To set off frightening you first. The repair of my passarelle was about 14k $.

Still there?

The good news for you is that your rotary actuator is not yet completely seized up as mine was. That means you can probably still take it apart. But to get to that thing is quite the job. First you need to get all the hydraulic hoses off and sensors off. Before you do that make sure the passarelle sticks out 90 degrees. Now you can remove the top part. It's heavy, really heavy. About 100+ kg or so. once that part is off you need to get off the base part. Again not so easy as removing the bolts still leave the chaulking to stick. Once the base is loose you can bring this to a hydraulics shop and the can start rebuilding it.
A new rotary actuator is around 6k$ including transport.

My passarelle was fully overhauled, all seals were replaced all cylinders overhauled, a brand new actuator and the whole thing was repainted.
I made a small change to prevent the ingress of (sea)water into the rotary actuator by putting a cover over it and putting a think layer of lanolin grease under the cover. The problem is that the way the actuator has been designed is that part that rotates sits inside a large cylinder. There is a narrow seam between the moving parts on the top side of the actuator. Opacmare made a poor design choice here to allow seawater to reach this seam and slowy but surely get into the mechanism. Once that happens it starts rusting (it is all mild steel) and at some point it is stuck to the point you will never be able to disassemble it.

If you need more details let me know.

Regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


Re: Locking the bowthruster on a A54on passages #solution

Jamie Wendell
 

Excellent idea. Now I have yet another boat project for my Amel.
Jamie
Phantom A54 #44


Re: Cable feed into Main and Mizzen masts on a A54

Sv Garulfo
 

Hi Arno,

Agreed, on Garulfo there is a VHF-like antenna for the AIS transceiver on top of the mizzen, but there is also a smaller fatter antenna for (IIRC) the fax receiver. 

I’ll take pictures next time I go up there 

Cheers 

Thomas
GARULFO
A54-122


On Wed, 29 Apr 2020 at 17:28, Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:
Thomas,

I'm pretty sure the antenna on top of the mizzen is for the AIS transceiver. A dedicated AIS antenna should not live next to a VHF antenna and ideally should be in a different horizontal plane.

Regards,

Armo
SV Luna,
A54-121


Re: OPACMARE gangway not rotating

Arno Luijten
 

You are confronted with the poor design of an otherwise very nice piece of hardware on your boat. To set off frightening you first. The repair of my passarelle was about 14k $.

Still there?

The good news for you is that your rotary actuator is not yet completely seized up as mine was. That means you can probably still take it apart. But to get to that thing is quite the job. First you need to get all the hydraulic hoses off and sensors off. Before you do that make sure the passarelle sticks out 90 degrees. Now you can remove the top part. It's heavy, really heavy. About 100+ kg or so. once that part is off you need to get off the base part. Again not so easy as removing the bolts still leave the chaulking to stick. Once the base is loose you can bring this to a hydraulics shop and the can start rebuilding it.
A new rotary actuator is around 6k$ including transport.

My passarelle was fully overhauled, all seals were replaced all cylinders overhauled, a brand new actuator and the whole thing was repainted.
I made a small change to prevent the ingress of (sea)water into the rotary actuator by putting a cover over it and putting a think layer of lanolin grease under the cover. The problem is that the way the actuator has been designed is that part that rotates sits inside a large cylinder. There is a narrow seam between the moving parts on the top side of the actuator. Opacmare made a poor design choice here to allow seawater to reach this seam and slowy but surely get into the mechanism. Once that happens it starts rusting (it is all mild steel) and at some point it is stuck to the point you will never be able to disassemble it.

If you need more details let me know.

Regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


FW: [AmelYachtOwners] Volvo D3 oil pressure

amelforme
 

Hello Paul. I had Amel 54 # 14. I did all the maintenance myself and had the workshop manual for the Volvo. I actually read the whole thing to full familiarize myself with this engine as I also previously had a SM 53 with a Volvo diesel. It was plenty of trouble for a brand new engine. Volvo ended up giving me a new replacement. I had been pushing hard for years with Mr. Carteau , Amel’s Chairman and Technical Director, to try Yanmar engines. We  soon did for North America and for Europe a little bit later. Amel went back to Volvo for the Amel 54 as it was a FADAC/computer controlled diesel that met the new and stricter emissions regulations as Yanmar did not quite have an available emissions compliant diesel in the required horsepower range. My Volvo D3 had several sensor failures with the computer control sensors. The first one was with the first potential client on the first sea trial  and I was ignominiously towed back to the dock . Not a good start…

Never had any mechanical problems with it and it didn’t use any oil between 100 hour changes either. The sensor problems did persist though and then vanished never to return. I hate head scratchers like that.

 

Amel switched to Pathfinder/marinized Volkswagen diesels, not to get away from Volvo as many assume but rather because Volvo decided  suddenly and with scant warning to quit building the D3 with the isolated negative/full earth return electrical system that Amel required. I believe one 54 got a Steyr diesel which, in my opinion,  is one of the best designed and built marine diesel engine with dealers all over the world.

 

Comments below. See if you can get the details I outlined from the gentleman who took the mechanical gauge oil pressure test.

 

All the Best, Joel         

 

       JOEL F. POTTER-CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST~L.L.C.

                                           THE  EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY

UNSURPASSED AMEL MARKETING EXPERIENCE AND PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE

                                   Office 954-462-5869  Cell 954-812-2485

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2020 7:03 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Volvo oil pressure

 

Many thanks to all who have replied. I’ll try to reply to the feedback.

 

This problem occurred immediately after an oil and oil filter change. I got the engineer involved after a few days when it started giving the warning whilst still at 1100rpm. The first thing the engineer did was to change the filter again for a genuine Volvo filter. That would tend to eliminate the check valve in the oil filter. Was the fresh oil added 4 hours ago the correct viscosity? Was it quality/branded oil like Shell Rotella or similar?

 

Re. oil analysis: Joel, as the oil is fresh – probably no more than 4 hours –  I doubt an analysis will yield anything significant – or am I wrong about that? More hours is better until you exceed recommended intervals. However, if the pressure is failing because of the clearances increasing, you will be shedding metal and this will be discernible at 4 hours. If you change the oil save some for a test if it later becomes obvious that it would be the correct thing to do. Take the sample from the last third of the oil extracted for best results.

The fact that the oil pressure is gradually getting worse would make me opt for a spectrographic analysis before any parts come off the engine. It is not expensive.

 

Re. oil consumption: The engine does not burn or lose any oil. That is encouraging.

 

Re. hours: engine hours are 1975.Way too young for self-destruction internally unless the engine was severely overheated or overloaded. If it is internal failure it would probably be due to manufacturers defect.

 

Re. historic maintenance – I have no details but I do know the boat had been extremely well taken care of so I doubt there is an issue here.

 

Re. pressure: I about the pressure, I didn’t personally take notes, but the engineer did measure the pressure using the external gauge at different rpm, up to about 2500 if I remember correctly. I am away from the boat and have asked them to send me this info. So, the mechanical gauge, for certain, confirmed that oil pressure at idle and up to around 1100RPM was below safe limits? If you can get the fellow who took the measurements to comment  about the following as he ran the RPM higher than 1100RPM it would be quite helpful…

Was the pressure increase linear or was it ‘jerky’ with plateaus and jumps?

As RPMs were increased, did the oil pressure always seem lower than what would be normal at that RPM?

If the oil pressure caught up with what would be considered normal, at what RPM did that happen?

 

Re. Pressure relief valve – I know nothing about that and it was not mentioned. Re. pump safety valve – again I have no knowledge about this and it was not mentioned. Oil pumps and associated regulating equipment are usually  carefully engineered and built to exacting standards as if these units fail everything else immediately follows suit. They seldom fail and when they do it is usually an immediate and catastrophic failure and not an incremental one. There are always exceptions…

 

Unfortunately I am away from the boat now until October. It is being looked after and I have contacted a friend who is an engineer in Grenada to investigate further. My concern is that if there is any bad weather the boat is not mobile – not a good situation.

 

Latest from the engineer: I would recommend to proceed with the following  after an oil analysis is completed as if the oil analysis tells of a failing engine the rest of this is unnecessary. It is usually not cost effective to rebuild  modern FADEC diesel  engines, particularly one that was in self consumption mode.

 

We can simply change the oil and filter, using Volvo filter and 15W40 HD oil as recommended, install a new pressure sensor and see what happens. If that isn't effective, there is a valve in the oil pump which could be stuck but because of your poor access we don't think the pump can come out without lifting the engine. The pump is on the crankshaft, behind the timing belt pulley(best replace that belt too) and this needs to be extracted; Stef says he doubts there would be room to get a puller between the engine and the bulkhead. The suction tube has a strainer and this could be blocked. The engine sump must be removed for this so engine definitely needs to come out. The sensor is not expensive, Euro 26.33 + freight. The valve is E 61.33, belt E 207.78, strainer E 61.33, seal E 25.11, gaskets and o-rings not much. Pump is not cheap at E 368.89. You suggested a new pump; I have not seen one give trouble, but I haven't seen this problem on a D3 before.

 So, how would you like us to proceed? The prices I gave are list, exclusive of shipping and brokerage. We can order just the sensor and replace this, the oil and filter and run her up in a couple of hours. If the problem is still there then I think she's gonna need to come out. The freight for just one sensor won't be very efficient and unfortunately I don't have much else to order right now- I try to get a list of parts together and spread the freight costs around, but if you are in a hurry, which with a disabled engine and the boat in the water I guess there must be some sense of urgency...

 

Cheers,

Paul

S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of amelforme
Sent: 29 April 2020 22:05
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Cc: jfpottercys@...
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Volvo oil pressure

 

Paul, a bit more information is needed to give you some help.

How many hours are on the engine now?

How many hours are on the oil in the crankcase now?

Did you get maintenance logs at the purchase that showed good habits regarding regular oil changes? What were the months and hour intervals if so?

Did this problem started immediately after a new oil filter and fresh engine oil were installed? Or was it several hours or days later?

Testing with a mechanical/non-electric oil pressure gauge confirmed that what you were reading from the helm mounted instrumentation was correct ?

Did oil pressure increase with higher engine RPM in a linear pattern, not increase at all or very little, or immediately increase by a great deal? This is very important  

 to know.

Does the engine burn more than a liter of oil  in 50 hours of running time?

Did the Volvo dealer immediately suggest engine removal with out any other testing?

 Did anyone suggest that you have a spectrographic engine oil analysis performed ? Do a web search on this. Not expensive and extremely telling about the engines  

internal mechanical condition.

 Slowly decreasing oil pressure is most often an indication of internal engine wear that increases/opens the tolerances/gaps between components like bearings and bearing journals.       

  I will await and respond to your answers but I would strongly suggest changing the engine oil filter and if nothing changes then obtaining a spectrographic engine oil analysis before the engine  is removed. The oil analysis will, for sure, tell you plenty about the engines’ relative health. Much the same as getting your blood work done before a visit to your medical practitioner.

 

All The best, Joel

 

 

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Paul Dowd an

d Sharon Brown
Sent: Wednesday, April 29, 2020 2:21 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Volvo oil pressure

 

Hi all,

 

I have a Volvo D3-110i-C with low oil pressure. I’m told by the local Volvo dealer that the engine will have to be taken out in order to replace the oil pump. I’m wondering what other factor may cause low oil pressure. Any opinion on this would be most welcome.

 

A bit of history on the problem. I changed the oil and oil filter after 188 engine hours which was 3 years. I then started getting low pressure warning after reducing from 1100rpm to idle. I checked the oil level and topped up to the top of the mark. After a couple of days I started getting low pressure warning whilst running at 1100rpm (to heat water). This was confirmed when the engineer attached a pressure gauge.

 

Cheers,

Paul

S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada

 


--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98


--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98


Re: Locking the bowthruster on a A54on passages #solution

Mark & Debbie Mueller
 

Great idea, wish our boat had the recess in the bow thruster yours does.  Will have to look for a suitable portlight that can be fitted.
--
Mark Mueller
Brass Ring  A54


Re: Top loading galley fridge/freezer used as a fridge: No?

Mark & Debbie Mueller
 

Freezer Seals for Amel 54 – I purchased from Zoro.com  EPDM Seal, D-Section, 0.75 In W, 25 Ft  by TRIM LOK INC; Zoro #: G3897214| Mfr #: X1458BT.  The 25' roll did both the chest and the bench.  They seem to run less now but still living with the poor insulation.

--
Mark Mueller
Brass Ring  A54


OPACMARE gangway not rotating

luvkante
 

Dear friends,

I am constantly facing problems with the rotation axle of my OPACMARE gangway, since I crossed the Atlantic (oxidation?).


When I leave CHIARA alone for a couple of months without operation, the rotation axle does not work. I have to rotate the gangway with big force manually backwards and forwards many times and slowly the gangway starts to rotate again. After many operations it works flawlessly again.


When the gangway is stuck, I hear the pump working, so it is ok. So should be the valve. It seems to engage properly. I checked it with the screw driver. 

A service man was not very helpful. He suggested to change the oil. I do not believe, that that is the problem, because the other linear axles seem to be ok. 

Any ideas?


Martin

AMEL 54 #149

CHIARA


Re: Top loading galley fridge/freezer used as a fridge: No?

Oliver Henrichsen, SV Vela Nautica
 

Hello,

1. Magnetic stainless 20mmx1mmx required length. Custom cut at ebay. Germany. Backside sanded and glued with contact cement. 

2. Magnetic freezer gasket. Professional fridge repair online custom made to our size. Attention the stainless basin might not be right under the lid. Check that. 
At the foto I show how we fixed it by screws. 

3. The hole for the cooling tubes was filled with sprey foam, and because that is a weak point, I placed 10cm extruder foam under the freezer and fixed all with spray foam. 

4. Yes, it was a lot exhausting work. We are happy with it now. We are in tropic Martinique, we drive the freezer with -19Celsius and the compressor has about 70% work time. Actually I cant say exactly because the original fridge is the weak point now, its insulation is not that efficient as the freezer. 

I need to improve my software to log the operating time in a bettet way. 

Oliver from Vela Nautica Amel54#39 
Martinique 


On Thu, Apr 30, 2020, 04:41 Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:
Oliver,

Just watched your video - that insulation replacement seems like a big job! But the results seem to make it worth it?

One question for you about the big hole on the bottom for the compressor lines: did you fill that big hole in with something? Otherwise it would seem that all of the cold air would flow out of it.

--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com