Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Zinc-anodes and Autoprop

karkauai
 

Interesting theory.  Makes sense to me.  That's why you're the sailor of the year!

Kent Robertson
828-234-6819 voice/text

On Sep 17, 2016, at 9:17 PM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

I have always believed that if you have multiple zincs connected in series, that the zinc closest to the protected items will be the first to dissolve. The zinc on the prop would be the closest zinc to ALL of the protected items in the bonding system because the C Drive is connected to the bonding system where all of the other items are connected which is to the top of the ground strap above the gray water sump. I have rationalized that this is the primary reason that Amel recommends the red cap.

I am certainly no expert on this, but this is my guess.

Bill
BeBe 387



On Sat, Sep 17, 2016 at 12:16 PM, Mark Pitt mark_pitt@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 


The plastic cap on my Autoprop was lost a couple of years ago.  I have replaced it with a zinc cap made for this prop.  The problem is that the prop zincs do not last more than 3 or 4 months before enough zinc is eaten away and a hole appears in the prop cap anode.  I have a galvanic isolator and my rudder zincs loose about one-third or one-quarter of their  mass a year.  So why does the prop anode/cap do so poorly since it is not tied to the bonding system? Should I be concerned?

Mark Pitt, Sabbatical III, ASM#419, Porto Vecchio, Corsica




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Zinc-anodes and Autoprop

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

I have always believed that if you have multiple zincs connected in series, that the zinc closest to the protected items will be the first to dissolve. The zinc on the prop would be the closest zinc to ALL of the protected items in the bonding system because the C Drive is connected to the bonding system where all of the other items are connected which is to the top of the ground strap above the gray water sump. I have rationalized that this is the primary reason that Amel recommends the red cap.

I am certainly no expert on this, but this is my guess.

Bill
BeBe 387



On Sat, Sep 17, 2016 at 12:16 PM, Mark Pitt mark_pitt@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 


The plastic cap on my Autoprop was lost a couple of years ago.  I have replaced it with a zinc cap made for this prop.  The problem is that the prop zincs do not last more than 3 or 4 months before enough zinc is eaten away and a hole appears in the prop cap anode.  I have a galvanic isolator and my rudder zincs loose about one-third or one-quarter of their  mass a year.  So why does the prop anode/cap do so poorly since it is not tied to the bonding system? Should I be concerned?

Mark Pitt, Sabbatical III, ASM#419, Porto Vecchio, Corsica




Re: Sailors of the Year--Our Own Bill and Judy Rouse!

Alan Leslie
 

Well done Bill and Judy...hearty congratulations !!
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Sailors of the Year--Our Own Bill and Judy Rouse!

Mark Erdos
 

Here here! You are an inspiration to us all

 

Cheers and congrats!

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark and Cindy

 

Super Maramu 2000

Hull #275

www.creampuff.us

Currently cruising:  Tampa Bay for hurricane season

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, September 17, 2016 2:08 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Sailors of the Year--Our Own Bill and Judy Rouse!

 

 

Wow!!!  Congratulations Bill & Judy!  I wonder if they even knew about your incredible contributions to the AmelYachtOwners' Group?

Well deserved!

Kent

SM 243

Kristy

Kent Robertson

828-234-6819 voice/text


On Sep 17, 2016, at 11:47 AM, rossidesigngroup@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Congratulations on being voted 2016 Sailor of the Year in the Sailing Today Magazine Awards! Quite a distinction--especially considering the list of nominees--  http://www.sailingtoday.co.uk/sailor-of-the-year/  Enjoy it, you deserve it!

Suzanne and Bob  SM KAIMI


Re: Sailors of the Year--Our Own Bill and Judy Rouse!

yahoogroups@...
 

Thanks Bob. 

We think that we are very ordinary people who had an extraordinary opportunity to experience a wonderful journey which took us to 58 countries and almost as many cultures. We believe that there are far better sailors than we are. Also, without our Amel, "BeBe," we are sure that we would have never been given this honor.

Bill
BeBe 387


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Zinc-anodes and Autoprop

Alan Leslie
 

Hi Mark,
As I understand it you shouldn't need the zinc on the propellor as the C-drive is connected to the bonding system.
I had that zinc for a while and it degraded at about the same rate as the rudder zincs. Last haulout I took it off and replaced it with the plastic cap.
Maybe you need to check the connectivity between your c-drive and the rudder zincs?...or your propellor and the rudder zincs.
If the resistance is very low you should have no problem with the plastic cap.
If the resistance is more than an ohm or two then you have an issue with the bonding connections somewhere.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Zinc-anodes and Autoprop

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi mark. I would think that the rapid degrading of the prop zinc indicates it is providing essential protection for your shaft and propeller. In the absence of the zinc I would think you would get serious  degrading. I would keep replacing it as nessesary. As to the rudder zinks. I would be concerned if I replaced them and found a reduction in the rate of degradation. That would suggest to me a reduction in protection, either from a poor contact or poor quality zink.
Regards
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl
Sent from my Vodafone Smart

On Sep 18, 2016 5:16 AM, "Mark Pitt mark_pitt@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 


The plastic cap on my Autoprop was lost a couple of years ago.  I have replaced it with a zinc cap made for this prop.  The problem is that the prop zincs do not last more than 3 or 4 months before enough zinc is eaten away and a hole appears in the prop cap anode.  I have a galvanic isolator and my rudder zincs loose about one-third or one-quarter of their  mass a year.  So why does the prop anode/cap do so poorly since it is not tied to the bonding system? Should I be concerned?

Mark Pitt, Sabbatical III, ASM#419, Porto Vecchio, Corsica



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Sailors of the Year--Our Own Bill and Judy Rouse!

karkauai
 

Wow!!!  Congratulations Bill & Judy!  I wonder if they even knew about your incredible contributions to the AmelYachtOwners' Group?
Well deserved!
Kent
SM 243
Kristy

Kent Robertson
828-234-6819 voice/text

On Sep 17, 2016, at 11:47 AM, rossidesigngroup@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Congratulations on being voted 2016 Sailor of the Year in the Sailing Today Magazine Awards! Quite a distinction--especially considering the list of nominees--  http://www.sailingtoday.co.uk/sailor-of-the-year/  Enjoy it, you deserve it!

Suzanne and Bob  SM KAIMI


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Zinc-anodes and Autoprop

Mark Pitt
 


The plastic cap on my Autoprop was lost a couple of years ago.  I have replaced it with a zinc cap made for this prop.  The problem is that the prop zincs do not last more than 3 or 4 months before enough zinc is eaten away and a hole appears in the prop cap anode.  I have a galvanic isolator and my rudder zincs loose about one-third or one-quarter of their  mass a year.  So why does the prop anode/cap do so poorly since it is not tied to the bonding system? Should I be concerned?

Mark Pitt, Sabbatical III, ASM#419, Porto Vecchio, Corsica



Re: Remedy for seawater causing oxidation on Onan parts

rossirossix4
 

Great advice.  Let me add an additional step to consider.  Before making an impeller change for the generator or the engine, consider flushing fresh water through the raw water system.  That way, even if you do spill you will be dealing with fresh water.  This is easy to do.  Close the salt water intake (you will do this anyway) then remove the top of the strainer.  Use your shore-water hose (or a cockpit shower hose) to keep the strainer full  while running the generator or engine. If you need a higher flow to keep the strainer full the hose can be augmented with a jug of fresh water.  Run the motor and water long enough to displace any salt water in the strainer body and to ensure that fresh water has replaced the salt water in the feed, impeller, and heat exchanger.  Flushing with fresh water is also a good idea if you are at the dock or on the hard and do not plan on running the engine or generator for a time.  You can also flush the AC, anchor wash. and toilet feed pumps and lines.  Fresh water reduces oxidation, helps to dissolve salt residual, may reduce hose odors, and reduces galvanic corrosion.  Our Super Maramu has a ball valve between the salt water manifold and the desalinator feed so you can shut this if you are using chlorinated dock water.  It is important to let the various systems pull the fresh water with their respective pumps--motor impellers, AC pump and system, anchor wash pump, toilet pumps--forcing fresh water through a motor using a plumbed in hose connection runs a high risk of filling the lift mufflers and forcing water into the engine via the exhaust. 
Bob KAIMI SM 429


Sailors of the Year--Our Own Bill and Judy Rouse!

rossirossix4
 

Congratulations on being voted 2016 Sailor of the Year in the Sailing Today Magazine Awards! Quite a distinction--especially considering the list of nominees--  http://www.sailingtoday.co.uk/sailor-of-the-year/  Enjoy it, you deserve it!

Suzanne and Bob  SM KAIMI


R: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] How long do your Hot Water Heaters Last?

Giovanni TESTA
 

Hi,
very sorry for my late...again with a decent wifi at Port Plaisance, La Reunion.
Several years ago I ordered, as spare part, an original spiral from Isotemp dealer in Venezia, Italia.
Buon Vento
Giovanni TESTA
sv EUTIKIA
La Reunion


----Messaggio originale----
Da: amelyachtowners@...
Data: 15-set-2016 15.01
A:
Ogg: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] How long do your Hot Water Heaters Last?



----Messaggio originale----
Da: amelyachtowners@...
Data: 15-set-2016 15.01
A:
Ogg: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] How long do your Hot Water Heaters Last?

 

Hi Colin,
I think the "universal" element fits all of their models, not other brands.  You are correct that the Quick Nautic is identical to the Nautic.  I ordered my heating element and thermometer from Quick.

Kent
SM 243
Kristy

On Sep 15, 2016, at 8:14 AM, Colin Streeter colin.d.streeter@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Thanks you for the responses. Since this hot water was renewed in 2008 and seems in absolutely spotless condition other than the electrical short to the 230v heater element we will get prices on both replacing the unit entirely, and on just the element this week before making a decision.

On doing an internet search today it seems to us that the previous Nautic 40L Boiler 40L is now possibly the Quick brand? The new Quick Nautic 40L (http://www.quicknauticalequipment.com/?lng=en&cs1=01&ms1=2&ms2=5&ms3=69&ms4=159 )  looks identical to our Nautic 40L.

Giovanni, where did you source your spiral element from? The Nautic boiler refers to a "Universal" element connection/fitting so am I correct that this is a generic fitting and one can fit any brand elements which has the "universal " type fitting?

The option to insert shut off valves to the water heater from/to the engine water was also suggested to me by the Yanmar mechanic. Seems to be a good idea.

Colin Streeter Island Pearl II
Amel 53 #332, Brisbane


On Thu, Sep 15, 2016 at 4:11 AM, Ben Driver/YAHOO joedoakes66@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Our Nautic Boiler lasted 14 years (boat was used infrequently).  However I believe internal heat exchanger was leaking for some time.  Eventually leak grew substantial causing freshwater to be leaked into Yanmar cooling system diluting anti-freeze and causing coolant to overflow.  This caused a minor mess but no real damage.  I was more concerned about anti-freeze from Yanmar getting into freshwater in water heater.  I would highly recommend proactively replacing these units before they fail.  No fun doing this remotely in a rolly harbor.

By the way, original unit was 45 liter.  New Nautic Boilers are not available in 45L. You can use 40 or 50 liter units.  I used 40 but in retrospect a 50 liter unit may have been a better fit.  But measure first.

Ben 

Ben and Gayle
La Bella Vita
SM #347

On Sep 14, 2016, at 7:15 AM, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Mine, also Nautic Boiler, lasted about 5 years.  The first on failed in the heat exchanger coil (the symptom was a rising level of engine coolant in the overflow tank).  The whole unit had to be replaced.  That one has failed after 3 years in the 220AC heating element and/or thermostat.  I will replace those parts and hope the whole unit doesn't need replacing.
I would carry a spare heating element and thermostat.

Kent
SM 243
Kristy

On Sep 14, 2016, at 9:55 AM, colin.d.streeter@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Our 2001 model SM has a 2008 model Nautic Boiler 40L / 800W hot water system fitting which looks in excellent condition externally, however our heater element failed a little while back and we were just in the process of replacing the element.


A Yanmar mechanic quoting on servicing the motor this week suggested we consider replacing the entire hot water unit now anyway, ahead of a circumnavigation, as he had too often seen older hot water units ruin perfectly good engines over time. I do not think the mechanic was trying to profit from this as he did not supply hot water units and also had no extra time to fit a new one either.


It would be interesting to know the average lifespan of the hot water systems on other Amels in the group? Is 8 years too long or really pretty good for some years ahead still?


Colin & Lauren Streeter

Island Pearl II, Amel 53 #332 







--
Colin Streeter
0411 016 445




Re: Zinc-anodes for rudder

svperegrinus@yahoo.com
 

In the U.S., we always used the R-5, and our mechanic drilled them for us.  I think these read ZIMAR?   These have the little copper-contact on the flat side.

In Seville, we purchased a Tecnomar 125mm (same size as the R-5) and we had a diver install a pair in Italy a couple of months ago.  It seems to be abrading at about the same speed as the R-5, so it looks like it will last about a year.  

The Tecnomar does not have the copper contact!  Should I be concerned?

Cheerio,

Peregrinus
SM2K No. 350 (2002)
At anchor, Salerno


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Lofrans Tigres Winch

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Duane,

The problem was most likely caused by not greasing the cone, or tightening the clutch too tight, causing all of the anchor load to rest on the key. If so, the key is twisted and no longer square and will not fit a new ICC. The key slot on the axle may also be no longer square. I would first try a new key with the new ICC, then if that does not work, you may need a machine shop to clean things up. Of course, you could replace the axle, ICC, and key.

This is the reason I always harp on a annual greasing of the cone and using a long snubber.

Good luck,

Bill
BeBe 387 

On Fri, Sep 16, 2016 at 7:22 PM, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

I had the key twist in the slots to the point that it widened the slot in the ICC.  I had a new slot cut in the gypsy 30 degrees or so off the old slot.  Has worked ok since.  Not sure what your problem might be.
Kent
SM 243
Kristy

Kent Robertson
828-234-6819 voice/text

On Sep 16, 2016, at 8:10 PM, sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

I had a time getting the inner clutch cone off, to the point I ordered a new inner clutch cone ("ICC").  When I tried to mount it, it won't go on the shaft.  The new one and the old one have the same part number embossed on the part, so it should fit.  Imtra tells me they have no history with such a complaint on the winch.


If I take the key out and rotate the new "ICC" a few degrees it will fit on.  With the key in it won't.  I tried the old "ICC" and it will only fit on within a range of a few degrees either side of the key, but it appears someone widened the key slot.  It seems like the shaft is oval or twisted, but that would take an enormous force.  


Has anyone else had this experience?

Duane

Wanderer, SM#477



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Zinc-anodes for rudder

karkauai
 

I am using an R7 Camp rudder zinc (7" diameter) purchased online.  It is expensive, but deteriorates much more evenly than cheaper zincs I have used (i.e. Martyr zincs). I switched to these zincs because my hull potential showed inadequate zinc protection.  These have 70% more surface area than the 5" dia zincs, and have brought my hull potential into the "protected" range.

Kent
SM 243
Kristy

On Sep 17, 2016, at 5:43 AM, herbert@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 


I am looking for a source to buy spare zinc-anodes for the rudder, prefered in Europe. On KALI MERA I need anodes with a diameter of 125mm and a center-hole of 10mm (the bolt to the rudder-stock is 10mm).  The anodes that I have seen in the chandleries (like budget marine...) or found in the internet all have a smaller hole in the center (~8mm), so I have to drill it to fit.  As my old spare parts did fit exactly there must be a source somewhere...

thanks,

herbert
KALI MERA, SN120, Trinidad



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Zinc-anodes for rudder

Ann-Sofie Svanberg <kanalmamman@...>
 

Hi Herbert

Have you tryed www.svb.de the german chandlery on the net? We use them as often as we can. If you can’t find what you are looking for, call/e-mail them and they will help you.

 

Regards

Annsofie

S/Y Lady Annila SM232, 1998  FOR SALE

Se info on www.sailinglife.se. Present in Portugal

 

 

 

Skickades från E-post för Windows 10

 

Från: herbert@... [amelyachtowners]
Skickat: den 17 september 2016 11:43
Till: amelyachtowners@...
Ämne: [Amel Yacht Owners] Zinc-anodes for rudder

 

 


I am looking for a source to buy spare zinc-anodes for the rudder, prefered in Europe. On KALI MERA I need anodes with a diameter of 125mm and a center-hole of 10mm (the bolt to the rudder-stock is 10mm).  The anodes that I have seen in the chandleries (like budget marine...) or found in the internet all have a smaller hole in the center (~8mm), so I have to drill it to fit.  As my old spare parts did fit exactly there must be a source somewhere...

thanks,

herbert
KALI MERA, SN120, Trinidad



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Zinc-anodes for rudder

eric freedman
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Zinc-anodes for rudder

eric freedman
 


Zinc-anodes for rudder

Herbert Lackner
 


I am looking for a source to buy spare zinc-anodes for the rudder, prefered in Europe. On KALI MERA I need anodes with a diameter of 125mm and a center-hole of 10mm (the bolt to the rudder-stock is 10mm).  The anodes that I have seen in the chandleries (like budget marine...) or found in the internet all have a smaller hole in the center (~8mm), so I have to drill it to fit.  As my old spare parts did fit exactly there must be a source somewhere...

thanks,

herbert
KALI MERA, SN120, Trinidad



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Lofrans Tigres Winch

karkauai
 

I had the key twist in the slots to the point that it widened the slot in the ICC.  I had a new slot cut in the gypsy 30 degrees or so off the old slot.  Has worked ok since.  Not sure what your problem might be.
Kent
SM 243
Kristy

Kent Robertson
828-234-6819 voice/text

On Sep 16, 2016, at 8:10 PM, sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

I had a time getting the inner clutch cone off, to the point I ordered a new inner clutch cone ("ICC").  When I tried to mount it, it won't go on the shaft.  The new one and the old one have the same part number embossed on the part, so it should fit.  Imtra tells me they have no history with such a complaint on the winch.


If I take the key out and rotate the new "ICC" a few degrees it will fit on.  With the key in it won't.  I tried the old "ICC" and it will only fit on within a range of a few degrees either side of the key, but it appears someone widened the key slot.  It seems like the shaft is oval or twisted, but that would take an enormous force.  


Has anyone else had this experience?

Duane

Wanderer, SM#477