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Re: Bamar EJF Furler

CW Bill Rouse
 

I do not know, but have you ruled out a jammed swivel at the top of the foil?

Also, do you have the manual? 

 BAMAR Furler um_ejf 1-2_it-en.pdf

The manual states (about page 40):
The electric furler turns and then stops 
Causes:
• Halyard wrapped around the foils.
• Halyard swivel badly adjusted.
• Genoa sheet jammed.
Have you greased according to the manual?
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Tue, Jul 7, 2020 at 9:28 AM amel46met <onboardaphrodite@...> wrote:
Yes Bill The jib furler  is not original I installed it four years ago. But do you have any ideas why it is malfunctioning? Unfurling 1 foot and then stopping.
Tom Deasy 
Aphrodite Maramu #125


On Jul 6, 2020, at 8:37 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


Tom, the EJF is the forestay furler on your Maramu but was not the original furler.
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Mon, Jul 6, 2020 at 9:46 AM amel46met <onboardaphrodite@...> wrote:
Hi Bill
The Barmar EJF is the forestay furler.
Tom Deasy 
Maramu #125 1983


On Jul 5, 2020, at 5:07 PM, Bill Shaproski <bill.shaproski@...> wrote:


Are you referring to your Genoa furler or your main sail furler?  If it's the main sail furler, is it the outhaul motor/gearbox that stops or the furler motor/gearbox that stops?  If it's the main sail furler, were you able to get it back by manually cranking it in?  I suspect you're referring to the Genoa furler, but just wanted to confirm.  
Regards.
Bill Shaproski
S/V Pacific Cool

On Fri, Jul 3, 2020 at 12:43 PM amel46met <onboardaphrodite@...> wrote:
Hello Group
Tom Deasy APHRODITE Maramu 1983 #125
I am having a problem with my electric furler, four years old and several thousand miles.It will unroll about 2 feet and stop it will not roll back up. Is it possible for me to disassemble to see the problem could it be the brushes or possibly corrosion with the paws or the electrical brake system any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Tom Deasy





--
Bill Shaproski
Cell:  +1-206-375-2787
Re: Newer model Isolated ground kit for Yanmar from alel

CW Bill Rouse
 

Tom,

I believe that almost any automotive 12-volt starter solenoid will work as a substitute as long as the mounting bracket is not connected to any of the posts on the battery side of the switched posts or the battery side of the coil posts. I believe this condition is true on most start solenoids and the Onan Negative solenoid, but you should verify it.
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Tue, Jul 7, 2020 at 9:10 AM Thomas Kleman <lorient422@...> wrote:
Eric- first of all thanks for all this. To have a guy who rewired his engine from scratch as a resource is incredibly helpful. My engine is a 4JH3-HTE but the wiring to the solenoid, diodes, and relay are all there as I see in the pics. After following the wiring from the panel to the solenoid the problem ended up being a bad connection at the relay. No power out of the relay to the solenoid. After rewiring the 2 brown wires connector and cleaning up the relay it works fine now. But as a precaution I'm buying a new solenoid from Maud and already ordered spare relays. I'm still curious about being able to substitute the isolated ground solenoid spares I have from the Onan for the Yanmars Valeo in a pinch. I never considered that option. Anyway, problem solved for now.

Tom and Kirstin
SM2K 422
Honelei Bay, Kauai

Updated Event: Canceled - ZOOM Meeting - Canceled, Presentation from the owner of QSails - Saturday, 11 July 2020 #cal-invite

main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Calendar <main@...>
 

Canceled - ZOOM Meeting - Canceled, Presentation from the owner of QSails

When:
Saturday, 11 July 2020
20:00 to 21:00
(UTC+00:00) UTC

Description:

The owner and manager of QSails will be unable to attend the meeting and unfortunately, we will have to cancel. I will reschedule this at some future date.

Bill Rouse

Calendar
Calendar

Re: Bamar EJF Furler

amel46met
 

Yes Bill The jib furler  is not original I installed it four years ago. But do you have any ideas why it is malfunctioning? Unfurling 1 foot and then stopping.
Tom Deasy 
Aphrodite Maramu #125


On Jul 6, 2020, at 8:37 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


Tom, the EJF is the forestay furler on your Maramu but was not the original furler.
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Mon, Jul 6, 2020 at 9:46 AM amel46met <onboardaphrodite@...> wrote:
Hi Bill
The Barmar EJF is the forestay furler.
Tom Deasy 
Maramu #125 1983


On Jul 5, 2020, at 5:07 PM, Bill Shaproski <bill.shaproski@...> wrote:


Are you referring to your Genoa furler or your main sail furler?  If it's the main sail furler, is it the outhaul motor/gearbox that stops or the furler motor/gearbox that stops?  If it's the main sail furler, were you able to get it back by manually cranking it in?  I suspect you're referring to the Genoa furler, but just wanted to confirm.  
Regards.
Bill Shaproski
S/V Pacific Cool

On Fri, Jul 3, 2020 at 12:43 PM amel46met <onboardaphrodite@...> wrote:
Hello Group
Tom Deasy APHRODITE Maramu 1983 #125
I am having a problem with my electric furler, four years old and several thousand miles.It will unroll about 2 feet and stop it will not roll back up. Is it possible for me to disassemble to see the problem could it be the brushes or possibly corrosion with the paws or the electrical brake system any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Tom Deasy





--
Bill Shaproski
Cell:  +1-206-375-2787
Re: Newer model Isolated ground kit for Yanmar from alel

Thomas Kleman
 

Eric- first of all thanks for all this. To have a guy who rewired his engine from scratch as a resource is incredibly helpful. My engine is a 4JH3-HTE but the wiring to the solenoid, diodes, and relay are all there as I see in the pics. After following the wiring from the panel to the solenoid the problem ended up being a bad connection at the relay. No power out of the relay to the solenoid. After rewiring the 2 brown wires connector and cleaning up the relay it works fine now. But as a precaution I'm buying a new solenoid from Maud and already ordered spare relays. I'm still curious about being able to substitute the isolated ground solenoid spares I have from the Onan for the Yanmars Valeo in a pinch. I never considered that option. Anyway, problem solved for now.

Tom and Kirstin
SM2K 422
Honelei Bay, Kauai
Re: A54 Fresh Water Pressure

CW Bill Rouse
 

David for most Amels the cut-off pressure is between 2-3 bar. If you are in that range you should be OK. 

FYI, normally the accumulator tank fails before the pump, and that pump is likely rebuildable. The cost of the original pump and tank is close to 1,000 euros.
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Tue, Jul 7, 2020 at 5:44 AM David Crisp <david@...> wrote:
Hi All,

I'm replacing the Gianneshi fresh water pump.  Can anyone tell me the recommended high and low water pressure values please?  I have the original Gianneschi ACB-61-G pressure tank and pump system, but I'm just replacing the pump as the tank seems okay.  
--
David Crisp
SV Wilna Grace
Amel 54 #58

A54 Fresh Water Pressure

David Crisp
 

Hi All,

I'm replacing the Gianneshi fresh water pump.  Can anyone tell me the recommended high and low water pressure values please?  I have the original Gianneschi ACB-61-G pressure tank and pump system, but I'm just replacing the pump as the tank seems okay.  
--
David Crisp
SV Wilna Grace
Amel 54 #58
Re: Slap Silencer

Gerhard Hoffmann
 

Hi Eric,
My boat is close to yours and I believe my bilge switch installation is original.  I cannot see the make/brand, the label says bilge switch COD 85000102.  The box is about 75mm long, 57mm wide and 60mm high without the plastic extrusion for the hold down screws.  I'm attaching two photos.

Hope that helps.

Gerhard Hoffmann
Pepino SM381
Greece
Newer model Isolated ground kit for Yanmar from alel

eric freedman
 

https://amelyachtowners.groups.io/g/main/files/Miscellaneous/_Kit%20isolation%20Yanmar.pdf


Tom,

I believe this is what you have. This is the newer conversion.  I see the relay you are referring to. The only thing I do not see in photos are the dual wire senders. I do see that they used them as you can see a bunch of sender wires at the Valeo Solenoid. If you will notice they show  that they are still using the diodes. They are covered in heat shrink tubing with a solderless connector at either end.

I also think I see a tranny oil cooler mounted on the tranny. Do you have this?

Above  is the link and the wiring diagram of the newer conversion of the yanmar of the isolated ground.

Fair Winds,

Eric

Sm 376
Re: Cruise and Max RPM #solution

Germain Jean-Pierre
 

Late piping in... check turbo and it’s actuator

Jean-Pierre Germain, Eleuthera, SM007


On 7/07/2020, at 8:55 AM, Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32@...> wrote:


Jose, I have the same engine with the Max prop I have now,or the fixed prop ,I could always get to 3100 rpms and about 8.3 kts. I too recommend you check your turbo. You may want to check the throttle linkage as well ,it may have slipped.
Good Luck ,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: Philippe Chatton <chattonp960@...>
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Sent: Mon, Jul 6, 2020 1:55 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Cruise and Max RPM #solution

Hi Jose,
I would recommend that you have your turbo checked
Kind regards 
Philippe
S/V Chameleon
Antibes, F


Le jeu. 25 juin 2020 à 16:10, JOSE PRIETO <prietomd11@...> a écrit :
Hello Amelians!  I am in the process of learning my boat.  The engine is a Volvo TMD22, with autoprop h6 propeller.
I found some threads here on the forum related to this topic, but none conclusive about what is the ideal cruise rpm regime, and what is the maximum rpm?  I can't get more than 2100 rpm!
 Any suggestion?

--
Jose Prieto
SV Wayag, SM 323
Currently Alicante, Spain

Re: Boar speed om Amel SM200

CW Bill Rouse
 

Arno, you are correct, I should not have used the term, "if you are not racing."

I should have said, "if you want a simple solution that costs less than $200."😀

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Mon, Jul 6, 2020 at 4:51 PM Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:
Hi Bill,

I don’t agree with your statement you can do without a STW sensor if you are not racing. In my current location (Caribbean) this may be OK but my former cruising grounds (Western-Europe) it would be quite an omission to live without STW. When tidal currents are getting significant you really appreciate the information you get from the difference between SOG and STW. We’ve sailed in places where the tidal current can run up to 8 knots. You really want to know when the tide change.
So it’s very depending on your cruising grounds if you can do without a STW sensor.

regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121

Re: Boar speed om Amel SM200

Arno Luijten
 

Hi Bill,

I don’t agree with your statement you can do without a STW sensor if you are not racing. In my current location (Caribbean) this may be OK but my former cruising grounds (Western-Europe) it would be quite an omission to live without STW. When tidal currents are getting significant you really appreciate the information you get from the difference between SOG and STW. We’ve sailed in places where the tidal current can run up to 8 knots. You really want to know when the tide change.
So it’s very depending on your cruising grounds if you can do without a STW sensor.

regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121
Re: Cruise and Max RPM #solution

Patrick McAneny
 

Bill, Be certain to fully seat the end caps so that the core is fully inserted in its section of the cap and tighten the clamps well,or else the raw water can exchange or mix with the antifreeze . My old caps were getting hard ,making it hard to insure a tight seal as the rubber was no longer pliable . The previous owner went so far as to put sealant/silicone in the cap. Not a good idea ,as pieces could break free and block cooling passages within the block. As I said in my previous post ,you can buy a new set of caps for about $50. ,if you buy them for a Perkins instead of a Volvo.
Good Luck,
Pat
SM Shenanigans
Sassafras River, Md.


-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Shaproski <bill.shaproski@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Group Moderators <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Mon, Jul 6, 2020 11:51 am
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Cruise and Max RPM #solution

Hi Frank,
Thanks for getting back to me with your very comprehensive and well written explanation.  I'll definitely check my HE when I return to Florida.  
Best Regards
Bill Shaproski

On Mon, Jul 6, 2020, 7:07 AM Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Bill, I also have an Amel about the same age as yours, and it too has the TMD22a. My engine would also run hot if I ran it much over 1800 rpm , at 2500 rpm for a few minutes I was seeing 217 degrees . I replaced the impeller ,insured water supply was unrestricted and cleaned the heat exchanger several times over a couple of years and yet still had overheating. I finally discovered my problem, and probably yours. The rubber caps on either end of the heat exchanger needed to be replaced and while ordering them online , on the side bar it showed a rubber washer/seal . I had no idea what it was for ,but bought it as well. I found a illustration showing this washer around the H/E core , when I took the core out and looked into the H/E housing ,towards the back I saw what I would call a small round  bulkhead built into the housing ,slightly larger in diameter than the core itself. The seal closes off the opening forcing the cooling water to flow thru the core rather than much of it  bypassing to core . So at low rpms the cooling was adequate to keep temps low ,but couldn't cool the water efficiently enough at higher rpms.
The washer had deteriorated and fallen off the core before I ever first took it apart, thus I never knew it existed ,I found small remnants of it later in the housing. So take your core out and see if the washer is on the core,I will bet it is gone, or pushed back too far and not sealing the opening. When you replace it ,slip it over the far end but not so far that it does not come into contact with the bulkhead opening  ,let the bulkhead push it into its proper position as you slide the core into place. 
One last tip to save a couple of hundred dollars. Buying the rubber end caps from any Volvo supplier was going to cost about $350. I found that if I ordered the caps for a Perkins M80 ,same caps ,it only cost about $55. ,the seal/washer was only a couple of dollars.
I hope this ends your overheating issues, I think it will.
Good Luck,
Pat
SM Shenanigans #123
Sassafras River ,Md.


-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Shaproski <bill.shaproski@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Group Moderators <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Sun, Jul 5, 2020 7:31 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Cruise and Max RPM #solution

I have a 1995 Amel SM with a TMD22A and a MaxProp.  I used a max cruising speed of 2,000 RPM when doing my circumnavigation, but usually tried to keep it at 1800RPM.  I have cruised at 2600 RPM plus in an emergency for about 30 minutes, but the engine did get very hot.  Hope this helps.  I arrived at the 2,000RPM number by listening to the prior owner's advice.  

Regards,
Bill Shaproski
S/v Pacific Cool
206-375-2787

On Thu, Jun 25, 2020 at 8:10 AM JOSE PRIETO <prietomd11@...> wrote:
Hello Amelians!  I am in the process of learning my boat.  The engine is a Volvo TMD22, with autoprop h6 propeller.
I found some threads here on the forum related to this topic, but none conclusive about what is the ideal cruise rpm regime, and what is the maximum rpm?  I can't get more than 2100 rpm!
 Any suggestion?

--
Jose Prieto
SV Wayag, SM 323
Currently Alicante, Spain


--
Bill Shaproski
Cell:  +1-206-375-2787
Re: Cruise and Max RPM #solution

Patrick McAneny
 

Jose, I have the same engine with the Max prop I have now,or the fixed prop ,I could always get to 3100 rpms and about 8.3 kts. I too recommend you check your turbo. You may want to check the throttle linkage as well ,it may have slipped.
Good Luck ,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: Philippe Chatton <chattonp960@...>
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Sent: Mon, Jul 6, 2020 1:55 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Cruise and Max RPM #solution

Hi Jose,
I would recommend that you have your turbo checked
Kind regards 
Philippe
S/V Chameleon
Antibes, F


Le jeu. 25 juin 2020 à 16:10, JOSE PRIETO <prietomd11@...> a écrit :
Hello Amelians!  I am in the process of learning my boat.  The engine is a Volvo TMD22, with autoprop h6 propeller.
I found some threads here on the forum related to this topic, but none conclusive about what is the ideal cruise rpm regime, and what is the maximum rpm?  I can't get more than 2100 rpm!
 Any suggestion?

--
Jose Prieto
SV Wayag, SM 323
Currently Alicante, Spain

Upcoming Event: ZOOM Meeting, Presentation from the owner of QSails on sailcloth and sail construction - Sat, 07/11/2020 20:00-21:00, Please RSVP #cal-reminder

main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Calendar <main@...>
 

Reminder: ZOOM Meeting, Presentation from the owner of QSails on sailcloth and sail construction

When: Saturday, 11 July 2020, 20:00 to 21:00, (GMT+00:00) UTC

An RSVP is requested. Click here to RSVP

Description: Over 60 Amel owners have purchased sails from QSails, Izmir, Turkey. QSails has shipped these sails worldwide. Emrah Oge, owner, manager, and avid sailor will present how sails are made and some key points to be aware of in the selection of sails for your Amel.

Join Zoom Meeting
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Meeting ID: 936 2880 7246

Join by SIP
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Please RSVP as soon as possible

See you on ZOOM!

Bill Rouse
Re: Cruise and Max RPM #solution

Philippe Chatton
 

Hi Jose,
I would recommend that you have your turbo checked
Kind regards 
Philippe
S/V Chameleon
Antibes, F


Le jeu. 25 juin 2020 à 16:10, JOSE PRIETO <prietomd11@...> a écrit :
Hello Amelians!  I am in the process of learning my boat.  The engine is a Volvo TMD22, with autoprop h6 propeller.
I found some threads here on the forum related to this topic, but none conclusive about what is the ideal cruise rpm regime, and what is the maximum rpm?  I can't get more than 2100 rpm!
 Any suggestion?

--
Jose Prieto
SV Wayag, SM 323
Currently Alicante, Spain

Re: eRe: sm 53 vs 54

Trevor Lusty
 

Hi James,
                You original question has to be on of the very best for a long time, just look at the quality of responses.
Over the past week I have continually thought if I were in your position, what would I really do? 
Despite that I totally hate all Volvo engines, they still work and have a global back up. I don't like the  locker seat height in the cockpit of the 54, so I would buy a cushion. The centre line aft bunk, well I can sleep forward when it's bumpy or noisy ( I always slept on the passageway floor to the aft cabin on my SM when on passage) . The defective main mast on the early models, I would ensure the factory repair had been carried out. The bloody table stopping the engine room door from lifting, there are several ways around that- or I'd just live with it. After all, the less I would have to look at that Volvo the better.
So after 30,000 miles sailing the SM and around 12,000 single handed would I buy the 54?

1. The double anchors. 2. The broader  beam aft, giving more positive buoyancy meaning you really can carry proper davits and solar panels with worrying about dragging your stern. 3. No more temptation of setting those
downwind double poles when sailing alone. 4. Having sailed in company for 5/6000 miles with two other SMs and three 54s, the 54 is definitely a little faster but not much. 5. Despite my comments about less stowage, there is far more than you will need. If you look back you will find many posts about live abroad cruisers having to repaint the boot line on a SM because they carried too much junk .6.The bow thruster on the 54 appears to be a lot less hassle, I don't know this for sure. 7. The forward facing nav station and the generous layout for mounting instruments.
8. The washing machine and dryer in the fore peak, mess and smell out of the way.9. It's a more modern design and is so much brighter for living aboard full time. 10. Maybe the most important part of your question, ROC when it comes time to cash out, I would have thought that your 54 being younger etc. might stand up better and gibe more Return On Capital.
All I can say is, I wish I were in your shoes and had that problem.
Chantier Amel respect del la mer, there is nothing better.
Good luck & fair winds.
Trevor Lusty
Ireland
Re: Cruise and Max RPM #solution

Bill Shaproski
 

Hi Frank,
Thanks for getting back to me with your very comprehensive and well written explanation.  I'll definitely check my HE when I return to Florida.  
Best Regards
Bill Shaproski

On Mon, Jul 6, 2020, 7:07 AM Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Bill, I also have an Amel about the same age as yours, and it too has the TMD22a. My engine would also run hot if I ran it much over 1800 rpm , at 2500 rpm for a few minutes I was seeing 217 degrees . I replaced the impeller ,insured water supply was unrestricted and cleaned the heat exchanger several times over a couple of years and yet still had overheating. I finally discovered my problem, and probably yours. The rubber caps on either end of the heat exchanger needed to be replaced and while ordering them online , on the side bar it showed a rubber washer/seal . I had no idea what it was for ,but bought it as well. I found a illustration showing this washer around the H/E core , when I took the core out and looked into the H/E housing ,towards the back I saw what I would call a small round  bulkhead built into the housing ,slightly larger in diameter than the core itself. The seal closes off the opening forcing the cooling water to flow thru the core rather than much of it  bypassing to core . So at low rpms the cooling was adequate to keep temps low ,but couldn't cool the water efficiently enough at higher rpms.
The washer had deteriorated and fallen off the core before I ever first took it apart, thus I never knew it existed ,I found small remnants of it later in the housing. So take your core out and see if the washer is on the core,I will bet it is gone, or pushed back too far and not sealing the opening. When you replace it ,slip it over the far end but not so far that it does not come into contact with the bulkhead opening  ,let the bulkhead push it into its proper position as you slide the core into place. 
One last tip to save a couple of hundred dollars. Buying the rubber end caps from any Volvo supplier was going to cost about $350. I found that if I ordered the caps for a Perkins M80 ,same caps ,it only cost about $55. ,the seal/washer was only a couple of dollars.
I hope this ends your overheating issues, I think it will.
Good Luck,
Pat
SM Shenanigans #123
Sassafras River ,Md.


-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Shaproski <bill.shaproski@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Group Moderators <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Sun, Jul 5, 2020 7:31 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Cruise and Max RPM #solution

I have a 1995 Amel SM with a TMD22A and a MaxProp.  I used a max cruising speed of 2,000 RPM when doing my circumnavigation, but usually tried to keep it at 1800RPM.  I have cruised at 2600 RPM plus in an emergency for about 30 minutes, but the engine did get very hot.  Hope this helps.  I arrived at the 2,000RPM number by listening to the prior owner's advice.  

Regards,
Bill Shaproski
S/v Pacific Cool
206-375-2787

On Thu, Jun 25, 2020 at 8:10 AM JOSE PRIETO <prietomd11@...> wrote:
Hello Amelians!  I am in the process of learning my boat.  The engine is a Volvo TMD22, with autoprop h6 propeller.
I found some threads here on the forum related to this topic, but none conclusive about what is the ideal cruise rpm regime, and what is the maximum rpm?  I can't get more than 2100 rpm!
 Any suggestion?

--
Jose Prieto
SV Wayag, SM 323
Currently Alicante, Spain


--
Bill Shaproski
Cell:  +1-206-375-2787
Re: Lubrication of the Mechanism That Drives The Main Sail Furling Unit

Bill Shaproski
 

Hi Kent,
Thanks for the followup.  Useful to know.
Regards
Bill

On Mon, Jul 6, 2020, 8:20 AM karkauai via groups.io <karkauai=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
The heavy oil was what was put in it by Amel, and lasted some 21 years, so that's what I used. If you go with grease, I think it should be looked at every 2 years or so. I may look at mine every 5 years if it doesn't leak oil.
Kent

On Jul 5, 2020 8:12 PM, Bill Shaproski <bill.shaproski@...> wrote:
Hi Ken and Iris,
Thanks for the clarification.  It's helpful.  Also, I note that Ken from Aquarius recommended grease to lubricate the furler, but you are recommending oil.  Is the choice a matter of preference or what?  Thanks again for your help.  
Regards
Bill Shaproski


On Tue, Jun 30, 2020 at 3:35 PM karkauai via groups.io <karkauai=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Bill.
Yes, I'm referring to the manual furler that the winch handle goes in.
I don't know how you could add oil with it in place. Mine had never been serviced, and hearing about the shearing off of the foil, I wanted to remove it to check that anyway.  Mine had holes that were elongated to about 15mm, so I cut it off and drilled new holes.

There was still oil in the gearbox, but only a cup or so, and it was black.  After dismantling it and cleaning it up, I reassembled it and with it lying on the bench with the opening where the drive shaft goes in facing up, I poured in the oil and then finished assembling.
Hope that helps,
Kent


On Jun 30, 2020 2:24 PM, Bill Shaproski <bill.shaproski@...> wrote:
Hi Kent and Iris,
Thanks much for the info.  I just want to confirm that when you say you serviced the manual furler you are referring to the unit at the bottom of the main sail where you insert the winch handle to manually furl or unfurl the main when the electric system has failed.  If yes, were you able to lubricate the inside of the unit with the unit in place. If so, how was this accomplished?  I reviewed a YouTube video from Ken on Aquarius where he explains how to completely rebuild the unit which looks reasonably challenging.  So if there's a way to lube it without disassembly I'd prefer that.  

Thanks for your interest.

Regards
Bill Shaproski
Pacific Cool  

On Sun, Jun 28, 2020 at 8:00 AM karkauai via groups.io <karkauai=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Bill.
I just serviced my manual furler for the main. It is filled with a very heavy gear oil.  I found only one place (in England) that sold it by the liter, otherwise it is sold in very large quantities and is very expensive. It was shipped to me in the USA in about a week at a reasonable price. A liter is enough to service it 2-3 times.
 It is Shell Oil Omala S4 WE320

After reinstalling it there was a small amount of oil on the deck the next day or two. It stopped leaking after a few days and hasn't been leaking for two weeks including furling and unfurling several times.
What specifically did you want to know?
Kent & Iris
SM243
Kristy


On Jun 18, 2020 9:00 AM, Bill Shaproski <bill.shaproski@...> wrote:
I did find a group of messages from 2012 that address my question.  But I would like to find someone who has done this recently to ask some specific questions.  
Regards,
Bill Shaproski



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Bill Shaproski
Cell:  +1-206-375-2787



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Bill Shaproski
Cell:  +1-206-375-2787
Re: Bamar EJF Furler

CW Bill Rouse
 

Tom, the EJF is the forestay furler on your Maramu but was not the original furler.
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Mon, Jul 6, 2020 at 9:46 AM amel46met <onboardaphrodite@...> wrote:
Hi Bill
The Barmar EJF is the forestay furler.
Tom Deasy 
Maramu #125 1983


On Jul 5, 2020, at 5:07 PM, Bill Shaproski <bill.shaproski@...> wrote:


Are you referring to your Genoa furler or your main sail furler?  If it's the main sail furler, is it the outhaul motor/gearbox that stops or the furler motor/gearbox that stops?  If it's the main sail furler, were you able to get it back by manually cranking it in?  I suspect you're referring to the Genoa furler, but just wanted to confirm.  
Regards.
Bill Shaproski
S/V Pacific Cool

On Fri, Jul 3, 2020 at 12:43 PM amel46met <onboardaphrodite@...> wrote:
Hello Group
Tom Deasy APHRODITE Maramu 1983 #125
I am having a problem with my electric furler, four years old and several thousand miles.It will unroll about 2 feet and stop it will not roll back up. Is it possible for me to disassemble to see the problem could it be the brushes or possibly corrosion with the paws or the electrical brake system any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Tom Deasy





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Bill Shaproski
Cell:  +1-206-375-2787
3101 - 3120 of 56035  
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