Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: bow thruster service. Problem

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Good morning Jim,

1) I did 3 times the bow thruster overall and it never happened to me, unless I am not understanding the question…
You did not keep the stopper to make the Thruster shaft going through the seal did you?

Here are pictures I took, it if helps: http://nikimat.com/bow_thruster_overhaul.html


2) Being cut is normal, I think a slightly better job could have been done cutting the foam.

3) The prop shaft lip seal in under the propeller hub, here is the picture:
http://nikimat.com/bow_thruster_overhaul/bow_thruster_overhaul_22.jpg

You will need to be “VERY” careful using 3 tiny screw to pull it out. You don’t want to damage the food of the bow thruster.
Look at my pictures. I think it will make sense.

Sincerely, Alexandre





--------------------------------------------

On Wed, 6/22/16, capt.anderson@gmail.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: bow thruster service. Problem
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, June 22, 2016, 11:11 PM


 











Perfect timing on
this topic for me. Thanks in advance
for any help with the following questions. Please forgive me
for demonstrating
ineptitude as I chime in with a few questions:

 

1. When doing the
in-the-water service today on SM384, as
per Gary Silver’s instructions & Bill Rouse’s
additional notes, after
removing the four hex-head screws that secure the Thruster
Shaft Housing to the
Motor, the shaft would not drop all the way down and out the
bottom of the boat.
It stopped a good 2” above the “stopper” hose clamp.
After installing the Amel
Special Tool initially I could lift the shaft up and down
but after trying to
ram it downwards it stuck and wouldn’t budge up or down. I
had to hire a diver.
After much pulling and wiggling the diver finally got the
shaft to come out.
Upon inspection of the foot, shaft and the diver’s
inspection of the Thruster
Trunk nothing looked unusual. Any ideas what might have
caused this?

I am hoping I won’t
encounter the same problem with the
shaft getting stuck when trying to put it back in
tomorrow.

 

2. The diameter of the
two neoprene seals on the Thruster
Foot is larger than the width of the foot on one side and
would over-hang on
one side, except the excess was trimmed off with a razor
knife. (Photo posted
at: https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/amelyachtowners/photos/albums/1196149903

The Amel-supplied
replacements are identical and will
need have the over-hang trimmed off too if they are not to
over-hang.  Is this normal? (Last service,
seals in photo
done by Amel Martinique.)

 

3. Where is the Prop
Shaft Lip Seal? Is it in the hub of
the propeller, flush with the 6 nylon screws that hold the
prop on, or is it
behind the prop in the foot? I removed the 6 nylon screws
from the prop but it
will not come off.  The seal in the hub
of the prop, flush with the nylon screws, is smaller than
the Amel-supplied prop shaft seal so I presume the
lip seal is in the trunk behind the prop. If so, any
suggestions on how to get
the prop off with the 6 nylon screws removed?
Again, thanks for any help
and please forgive me for demonstrating my ignorance.
JimSM384 Sirena AzulSeattle










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Re: 24V Watermaker

seagasm@...
 

This does not make sense!

Why would you deplete your stored energy in your batteries to run a 24 volt motor on your water maker. If you managed your water storage enough, you would be utilizing your genset output each day to top up your water using your 110/240VAC motor while replenishing your battery capacity at the same time.

I have a 24VDC motor on my Dessalator and I would gladly swap it for a 240VAC motor. Ridiculous as it may sound, the amperage used to run a 24VDC motor has to be replenished by running the Genset to keep the batteries topped up. Needless to say, I run my Genset while making water and charging my batteries at the same time.

Kind Regards
Barry & Robyn
Tradewinds III SM #171

 


Re: 24V Watermaker

Walter
 

Hi Bob,

Noa (SM2K #436) has the same setup as Elise, dessalator duo 60. The hp pump is driven via belt, either by 220V AC motor or by 24V DC motor, a compact and reliable setup. We use 24V DC when under motor, AC when running the genset. Dessalator specofies the 24V motor with 550W/18A, a bit more when starting. A dessalator 160 has a more powerful or faster running hp pump and the pump is driven directly by the AC motor, so, beside connecting problems, you´ll need a bigger 24V DC motor. The AC motor of the 160 dessalator is 2,2KW, so a DC motor will draw around 90+A, a bit more when starting. Quite substantial amount and difficult to get out of solar or wind power. To my knowledge dessalator doesn´t sell converting kits for the 160, maybe due to the data mentioned above.

Regards,
Walter (Noa, SM2K #436)


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: bow thruster service. Problem

Jim Anderson
 

Perfect timing on this topic for me. Thanks in advance for any help with the following questions. Please forgive me for demonstrating ineptitude as I chime in with a few questions:

 

1. When doing the in-the-water service today on SM384, as per Gary Silver’s instructions & Bill Rouse’s additional notes, after removing the four hex-head screws that secure the Thruster Shaft Housing to the Motor, the shaft would not drop all the way down and out the bottom of the boat. It stopped a good 2” above the “stopper” hose clamp. After installing the Amel Special Tool initially I could lift the shaft up and down but after trying to ram it downwards it stuck and wouldn’t budge up or down. I had to hire a diver. After much pulling and wiggling the diver finally got the shaft to come out. Upon inspection of the foot, shaft and the diver’s inspection of the Thruster Trunk nothing looked unusual. Any ideas what might have caused this?

I am hoping I won’t encounter the same problem with the shaft getting stuck when trying to put it back in tomorrow.

 

2. The diameter of the two neoprene seals on the Thruster Foot is larger than the width of the foot on one side and would over-hang on one side, except the excess was trimmed off with a razor knife. (Photo posted at: https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/amelyachtowners/photos/albums/1196149903

The Amel-supplied replacements are identical and will need have the over-hang trimmed off too if they are not to over-hang.  Is this normal? (Last service, seals in photo done by Amel Martinique.)

 

3. Where is the Prop Shaft Lip Seal? Is it in the hub of the propeller, flush with the 6 nylon screws that hold the prop on, or is it behind the prop in the foot? I removed the 6 nylon screws from the prop but it will not come off.  The seal in the hub of the prop, flush with the nylon screws, is smaller than the Amel-supplied prop shaft seal so I presume the lip seal is in the trunk behind the prop. If so, any suggestions on how to get the prop off with the 6 nylon screws removed?


Again, thanks for any help and please forgive me for demonstrating my ignorance.


Jim

SM384 Sirena Azul

Seattle


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Anchor Wash Pump

karkauai
 

Danki (Papiamento for Thank You), Paul.  I'm going to try using an Oring first.  If that doesn't work, I'll use locktite or something like that.  On this pump both the threaded hose barb and the housing are plastic.  Does locktite work on plastics?
Kent
SM243
Kristy 


On Jun 22, 2016, at 2:02 PM, osterberg.paul.l@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

We used Loctite for plumbing after that no leak
Paul on SYKerpa SM 259


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Santorin Bow Thruster Amperage Draw

James Alton
 

Craig,

  You could compare the voltage drop at the battery terminals as compared to the motor terminals to get some idea of how much of the drop is in the cables.  It is possible that you may find that your batteries are a bit weak.  If you determine that a large part of this voltage drop is in the wiring, check all of the connections carefully.  Any connection with a high resistance will heat up with that much current and would feel warm or hot to the touch after running the thruster for several seconds.   If your batteries are holding their voltage well, and you are starting at 12.5 volts, you are dissipating 3.5 volts x 245 amps or 857 watts in resistance…a lot of power hence the heating.   This information is general in nature since my Amel experience is just beginning.

Best of luck,

James

Maramu #220 Sueno

On Jun 22, 2016, at 3:05 PM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Craig,

Check this out: https://www.easycalculation.com/physics/classical-physics/hp-to-amps.php

I think you are in the ballpark. 

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On Jun 21, 2016 11:39 PM, "sangaris@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Can any Santorin owners give me a bench mark for how many amps their bow thruster draws? 

Mine is showing 245 Amps after about 3 or 4 seconds of operation and stays constant with continued operation. 


This is with about 1500 rpm on the engine, generating about 35 amps before engaging the bow thruster (it is the original 70 amp Perkins alternator). The system voltage drops to 9 volts during this.  


The bow thruster does work perfectly through all this - I am just suspicious about the old wires/cables losing ampacity after some 24 years and one nearby lightning hit. On the other hand, this may be perfectly normal.  


I'd appreciate hearing if this is normal for the Santorin.


Thanks, 

Craig Briggs, SN#68, Sangaris





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: bow thruster service. Problem

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

The foam seals on the SM are placed 2 outside and one inside. The outside foam helps seal water when the bow thruster is retracted. The inside seal helps seal water when the bow thruster us in use. The primary seal is the lip seal on the tube.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On Jun 22, 2016 4:09 PM, "rossienio@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

The shaft of the Santorin BT has a diameter of 59-60mm, as I believe that of the SM, then the foam seals are the same?  Then why it says here (3D Bow thruster) that it should be put on the SM 3 outside? Excuse me, but I want to avoid any leakage of water, and I am not at all experienced. regards. enio 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: bow thruster service. Problem

rossienio@...
 

The shaft of the Santorin BT has a diameter of 59-60mm, as I believe that of the SM, then the foam seals are the same?  Then why it says here (3D Bow thruster) that it should be put on the SM 3 outside? Excuse me, but I want to avoid any leakage of water, and I am not at all experienced. regards. enio 


Re: 24V Watermaker

Alan Leslie
 

We have a Duo 60 which has one HP pump and both a 230VAC motor and a 24VDC motor - it works just fine.
I don;t know how you could simply do that with a 160.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Santorin Bow Thruster Amperage Draw

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Craig,

Check this out: https://www.easycalculation.com/physics/classical-physics/hp-to-amps.php

I think you are in the ballpark.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On Jun 21, 2016 11:39 PM, "sangaris@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Can any Santorin owners give me a bench mark for how many amps their bow thruster draws? 

Mine is showing 245 Amps after about 3 or 4 seconds of operation and stays constant with continued operation. 


This is with about 1500 rpm on the engine, generating about 35 amps before engaging the bow thruster (it is the original 70 amp Perkins alternator). The system voltage drops to 9 volts during this.  


The bow thruster does work perfectly through all this - I am just suspicious about the old wires/cables losing ampacity after some 24 years and one nearby lightning hit. On the other hand, this may be perfectly normal.  


I'd appreciate hearing if this is normal for the Santorin.


Thanks, 

Craig Briggs, SN#68, Sangaris


Re: Anchor Wash Pump

Paul Osterberg
 

We used Loctite for plumbing after that no leak
Paul on SYKerpa SM 259


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchor Wash Pump

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Kent,

Interesting. I just checked the exploded view and see nothing between the
barb, but as you probably know this pump is a notorious leaker. Maybe you
have found something that may be worth a try.

I sent the exploded view to your email address.

Bill
BeBe 387

On Wed, Jun 22, 2016 at 3:24 PM, karkauai@yahoo.com [amelyachtowners] <
amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:



Hi all,
I have a leak on the pressure side (output) of my anchor wash pump. It is
the original AMFA S40 pump and still works great. The leak seems to be
coming from the connection between the screw-in hose barb and the housing.
There don't appear to be any cracks in the housing or the hose barb. I
tried using Teflon plumbers tape with no improvement. There is a small
ridge in the pump housing that looks like it could be for an o-ring, but no
o-ring was present when I removed the barb. A rubber washer could also go
between the pump housing and the flange on the barb. I don't have any
information or schematics to determine if an o-ring or other seal should be
present.

Has anyone had this problem? Does anyone know if there should be an O-ring
or other seal between the barb and the housing?

Thanks in advance,
Kent
SM243
Kristy
Currently Curaçao at the Yacht Club (nice place and nice people...thanks
for the referral Eric and Bill)


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Anchor Wash Pump

karkauai
 

Hi all,
I have a leak on the pressure side (output) of my anchor wash pump. It is the original AMFA S40 pump and still works great. The leak seems to be coming from the connection between the screw-in hose barb and the housing. There don't appear to be any cracks in the housing or the hose barb. I tried using Teflon plumbers tape with no improvement. There is a small ridge in the pump housing that looks like it could be for an o-ring, but no o-ring was present when I removed the barb. A rubber washer could also go between the pump housing and the flange on the barb. I don't have any information or schematics to determine if an o-ring or other seal should be present.

Has anyone had this problem? Does anyone know if there should be an O-ring or other seal between the barb and the housing?

Thanks in advance,
Kent
SM243
Kristy
Currently Curaçao at the Yacht Club (nice place and nice people...thanks for the referral Eric and Bill)


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] 24V Watermaker

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Bob, 

I have not seen this done, but off the top of my head you would need:
  1. Several 3 way Ball Valves to switch from one HP to the other: Saltwater IN to the HP pump, Saltwater OUT to the membranes. 
  2. Some sort of electric switch selector that turns ON/OFF power to each HP pump. This would have to be some sort of 2 stage switch (mixed voltages).
  3. You would need to somehow move the pressure sensing tube from the manifold of the current HP pump to a place where it would sense pressure for either pump
  4. The above assumes that the 24VDC HP pump would meet the same pressure as the 230VAC pump
  5. You would also have to run the LP pump and energize the above modified system with 230VAC for the control board and relays to work.
I cannot imagine that doing the above would make any sense at all. If you really want a DUO system, I suggest that you buy it from Dessalator.

Bill
BeBe 387

On Wed, Jun 22, 2016 at 11:31 AM, rossidesigngroup@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Wondering if anyone has added 24V water making capacity to their Amel.  We have the 220V 160 Dessalator and it works great but would like to have the option to make water with 24 V.  There is a kit for converting to the Duo Dessalator but I am hearing that it has problems..


Seems that you could add a 24V high pressure pump and feed pump and use the existing membrane and even the constriction control that controls seawater pressure to the membrane.  There is also the possibility of a stand alone system that only shares the pre-filters.


Anyway, wondering if anyone has had any success with this.  It would be great to be able to make water while motoring or with solar.


Bob

KAIMI SM 429



24V Watermaker

rossirossix4
 

Wondering if anyone has added 24V water making capacity to their Amel.  We have the 220V 160 Dessalator and it works great but would like to have the option to make water with 24 V.  There is a kit for converting to the Duo Dessalator but I am hearing that it has problems..


Seems that you could add a 24V high pressure pump and feed pump and use the existing membrane and even the constriction control that controls seawater pressure to the membrane.  There is also the possibility of a stand alone system that only shares the pre-filters.


Anyway, wondering if anyone has had any success with this.  It would be great to be able to make water while motoring or with solar.


Bob

KAIMI SM 429


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Wind generator on top of the mizzen mast

Ann-Sofie Svanberg <kanalmamman@...>
 

No, but then you continued to talk about solarpanels. Not a word that you reffered to wind gen.
But I would say that the best benefit from a wind gen is during nights and less sunny days.
The choice is free, to have a wind gen or not. We are very pleased with what it delivers and think it is worth the investment.

/Ann-Sofie
S/Y Lady Annila, SM 232

/Ann-Sofie


Skickat från min iPad

21 juni 2016 kl. 09:51 skrev osterberg.paul.l@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

Hello Ann-Sofie
You said 1500 Ah from the windgenerator during 4 month that I gott to 12,5 Ah aday
I might got it wrong?
Paul on SYKerpa SM 259


Santorin Bow Thruster Amperage Draw

Craig Briggs
 

Can any Santorin owners give me a bench mark for how many amps their bow thruster draws? 

Mine is showing 245 Amps after about 3 or 4 seconds of operation and stays constant with continued operation. 


This is with about 1500 rpm on the engine, generating about 35 amps before engaging the bow thruster (it is the original 70 amp Perkins alternator). The system voltage drops to 9 volts during this.  


The bow thruster does work perfectly through all this - I am just suspicious about the old wires/cables losing ampacity after some 24 years and one nearby lightning hit. On the other hand, this may be perfectly normal.  


I'd appreciate hearing if this is normal for the Santorin.


Thanks, 

Craig Briggs, SN#68, Sangaris


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Dodger glass thickness

hanspeter baettig
 

Hi Eamonn
if you are in Greece; maybe you can ask Emek, Riza. He can ship it to you easely. He made for me new Dodger, dark, like the Amel 54. Cost a littel bit, but perfect
kr
Hanspeter
SM #16 Tamango 2


Von meinem iPhone gesendet

Am 21.06.2016 um 22:07 schrieb eamonn.washington@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

Hi

it is nominally 10mm thick, but actually 9.5mm when I measured it recently.  And  it is made from "Lexan", a polycarbonate.

Last week I asked Amel if they still sold replacement windows, and they replied no.  I am looking into making them myself.

Regards
Eamonn
SM #151 Travel Bug, on the hard in Cleopatra Marina, Greece.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Dodger glass thickness

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

When I asked Amel they told me it was not Lexan because Lexan scratched easier than Plexiglass. Are you sure that Amel said, "Lexan?"

Bill
BeBe 387

On Tue, Jun 21, 2016 at 7:13 PM, eamonn.washington@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi

it is nominally 10mm thick, but actually 9.5mm when I measured.  It is made from "Lexan", a polycarbonate.

I asked Amel if they still sold windows, but they said no.  I am looking at making new windows myself.  (I will have enough Lexan to make at least a second set.)

Regards
Eamonn

SM #151 Travel Bug, currently on the hard in Cleopatra Marina, Greece



Re: Dodger glass thickness

eamonn.washington@...
 

Hi

it is nominally 10mm thick, but actually 9.5mm when I measured.  It is made from "Lexan", a polycarbonate.

I asked Amel if they still sold windows, but they said no.  I am looking at making new windows myself.  (I will have enough Lexan to make at least a second set.)

Regards
Eamonn

SM #151 Travel Bug, currently on the hard in Cleopatra Marina, Greece