Date   
Re: Steering racks for SN, SM & 54

amel46met
 

Good day Bill
I was wondering if Amel would have the racks for a 1983 Maramu # 125.
Barra De Navidad Mexico
200 miles to go for a circumnavigation !!
Thanks TOM Deasy 


On Feb 7, 2020, at 9:07 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


This is to notify you that SAV"at"Amel.fr will have the steering racks available to ship in a few weeks. I understand that they have them, and are currently testing the installation.

I would like to point out to everyone that this is really admirable on the part of Amel. When I contacted the US branch of the company that originally made these racks, there was not any desire on their part to make these discontinued racks available. I am not sure if Amel convinced them, or found someone else to make the racks, but in either case, Amel used their expertise and leverage to support owners with a discontinued manufacturer's part that Amel has not used since the last 54 was produced. Among boat builders, I believe this is remarkable. I know that Maud and Thierry were very supportive of all of us.

Bill

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   
View My Training Calendar
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Re: Paranoia about the D3-110 Volvo Penta - diesel bug

ngtnewington Newington
 

Hi Scott and Porter,

I choose to use a 10 or even 30 micron filter on the Racor followed by the Volvo secondary filter which is 2 micron I believe.

In my opinion by having the pre-filter at 2 micron you are in effect only having one filter. So in the event of major contamination the Racor will plug and the engine will suffer from fuel starvation. You may also damage the fuel pump, although on the 54 the fuel is gravity fed from the tank to the filters.

The same principle applies to the water maker. There is a course filter followed by the fine filter. You can not just go straight to the fine.

I know this is a controversial subject but that is my opinion….and the industry norm.

Nick

Amelia AML 54-019
Kilada Greece

On 9 Feb 2020, at 15:10, Porter McRoberts via Groups.Io <portermcroberts@...> wrote:

I understand. We have the same setup. The dual racor (A vs B) and A+B if one wishes.  We keep the 2 micron on both A and B and use only A or B, switching back and forth.  Filter C is of course the very pricey Volvo-specific filter/fuel water separator, which is what I want to spare by using the 2 micron. I watch the pressure gauge on the racors a lot.  That’s why we change frequently, to keep pressures low.  We have no pre-pre filters.  

I remember a thread on this about a year ago, the 2 micron pre-filter argument.  That’s when we switched.  Its hard to be scientific when we have limited data re what works “best.”

Great comments on why to keep the tank full during storage.

Porter A54-152

On Feb 9, 2020, at 10:02 AM, Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:

Porter,

I have the two racor filter setup. I consider this the primary filter / pre-filter.

Options:

1) FilterA only
2) FilterB only
3) FilterA and FilterB in parallel

Do you run the 2 micron filters here?

On my D3-110C there's a Volvo spin-on filter (2 micron) on the engine itself. We'll call that FilterC

Did you install a pre-filter before the Racors??
-- 
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: Paranoia about the D3-110 Volvo Penta - diesel bug

Porter McRoberts
 

I understand. We have the same setup. The dual racor (A vs B) and A+B if one wishes.  We keep the 2 micron on both A and B and use only A or B, switching back and forth.  Filter C is of course the very pricey Volvo-specific filter/fuel water separator, which is what I want to spare by using the 2 micron.  I watch the pressure gauge on the racors a lot.  That’s why we change frequently, to keep pressures low.  We have no pre-pre filters.  

I remember a thread on this about a year ago, the 2 micron pre-filter argument.  That’s when we switched.  Its hard to be scientific when we have limited data re what works “best.”

Great comments on why to keep the tank full during storage.

Porter A54-152

On Feb 9, 2020, at 10:02 AM, Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:

Porter,

I have the two racor filter setup. I consider this the primary filter / pre-filter.

Options:

1) FilterA only
2) FilterB only
3) FilterA and FilterB in parallel

Do you run the 2 micron filters here?

On my D3-110C there's a Volvo spin-on filter (2 micron) on the engine itself. We'll call that FilterC

Did you install a pre-filter before the Racors??
--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

Re: Paranoia about the D3-110 Volvo Penta - diesel bug

Scott SV Tengah
 

Porter,

I have the two racor filter setup. I consider this the primary filter / pre-filter.

Options:

1) FilterA only
2) FilterB only
3) FilterA and FilterB in parallel

Do you run the 2 micron filters here?

On my D3-110C there's a Volvo spin-on filter (2 micron) on the engine itself. We'll call that FilterC

Did you install a pre-filter before the Racors??
--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

Re: Paranoia about the D3-110 Volvo Penta - diesel bug

Dan Carlson
 

Hi Scott, I really can't say what I do is right, but here are a few things that seem to work for me so far. 
1) I try to use more than half the tank before refueling to replace the old with fresh. That is dependent on having it available when you need it, but we are in the Caribbean. 2) we have avoided biodiesel. 3) I use StarTron treatment as that has been what was available when I have needed to replenish. 4) I leave the tank full during the off season to reduce condensation  from air that enters thru the vent during the daily temperature cycles. 5) I have inspected my tank twice in 4 years when there was less than 200 liters in the tank (I could not see the bottom of the tank when there was more than 200 liters). The walls and floor we're shiny, but both times there were several small 50cm2 patches of slime on the floor. I attached a 2 meter length of small fuel hose to my fuel dipstick with a couple zip-ties and then stuck the end of the hose into the slime spot and sucked it up with a 5 liter vacuum fluid (oil)extractor.  6) I also shine a light thru the racor bowls regularly to monitor if any sludge is getting into them.

The risk of running the fuel tank low is that rough seas will break loose and break up any accumulated sludge.  

Best regards,  Daniel Carlson on sm #387, sv BeBe

On Sun, Feb 9, 2020, 9:28 AM Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@... wrote:
My paranoia about my Volvo D3-110 (rev c) has been kicked back into high gear. I think this applies to anyone with a diesel engine but particularly with the hyper sensitive D3-110.

I know a few A54 owners with failed D3-110 due to water ingress. We've discussed that on another thread. I'll leave that discussion there.

Recently I met a HR46 owner who had to lag behind the World ARC ($$$$!) because of diesel bug issues on his D3-110C. Another HR48 owner had the same issue and in both cases, the engine died and wouldn't start back up. His tank was disgusting, apparently. I've opened my inspection hatches and my tank is nearly pristine. But I am not going to rest on my laurels. 

What do you guys do to keep your fuel system clean? Here's my procedure and I hope I can improve on it with your help:

1) Diesel only from places that get high turnover. We aim for duty-free, so they're usually in high demand.
2) Outside of the US and EU, we use the Baja filter. Damn slow at only around 8liters per minute, but you gotta do what you gotta do... That said, I know of a few owners in the EU who have had diesel bug - seems more prevalent with biodiesel.

One idea to reduce filling time (900/8 = nearly two hours!!) is to use the Baja Filter to fill up our spare 20liter jerry can and then inspect the Baja filter. If all is good, just fill up the boat without the filter.

3) I use BioBor JF. I don't know if it's the best, but I found a bottle in the US that was enough to treat 10,000 liters, so that was my decision making criteria.
4) I have 10 micron Racor filters in the water separator filters. I carry 15 filters aboard.  Two micron in the Volvo, per spec.
5) Pray.

What do you all do to ensure you aren't stricken by the bug?


--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

Re: Paranoia about the D3-110 Volvo Penta - diesel bug

Matt Salatino
 

There are only two ways to keep your fuel tank, when you store a boat:
1) completely full, to the top
2) bone dry, empty.
Chapter 1:
The reason is that during the course of the day, air expands and contracts. If there is an air space in your fuel tank, air is constantly flowing into and out of the tank through the vent line, due to the normal expansion and contraction of air as the temperature rises and falls during the course of the day. The problem is that the fuel, a liquid, with a much higher specific heat (capacity to hold heat)remains at a more constant temperature. This heat sink of the fuel in the tank causes much of the water vapor in the air, to condense to liquid water in the tank. Only a little bit every day. A few months of this activity in a relatively humid (sea air) environment can produce a significant amount of liquid water, that settles to the bottom of your tank.
Chapter 2:
Diesel bug is an algae that has developed the ability to survive by eating diesel fuel, and using the water at the fuel water interface to get oxygen. So the bug lives, reproduces and dies in that fuel/water interface, producing the black gooey sludge.
Having a partially empty tank exacerbates this problem.

Storing your boat with completely full tanks eliminates the air space, so moist air does not get in and can’t condense its moisture in the fuel. An empty tank (difficult to do) doesn’t provide the heat sink to cause the water to condense so fast. It will to some extent, but not so rapidly.

We’ve experienced this first hand. After cleaning our tank we were bug free for about 5 years, traveling through The Caribbean, storing the boat every hurricane season in the tropics. One season, we forgot to fill the tank, and had diesel bug the next cruising season.
I also think using Biobor or equivalent, is a good thing.

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Feb 9, 2020, at 9:28 AM, Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:

My paranoia about my Volvo D3-110 (rev c) has been kicked back into high gear. I think this applies to anyone with a diesel engine but particularly with the hyper sensitive D3-110.

I know a few A54 owners with failed D3-110 due to water ingress. We've discussed that on another thread. I'll leave that discussion there.

Recently I met a HR46 owner who had to lag behind the World ARC ($$$$!) because of diesel bug issues on his D3-110C. Another HR48 owner had the same issue and in both cases, the engine died and wouldn't start back up. His tank was disgusting, apparently. I've opened my inspection hatches and my tank is nearly pristine. But I am not going to rest on my laurels. 

What do you guys do to keep your fuel system clean? Here's my procedure and I hope I can improve on it with your help:

1) Diesel only from places that get high turnover. We aim for duty-free, so they're usually in high demand.
2) Outside of the US and EU, we use the Baja filter. Damn slow at only around 8liters per minute, but you gotta do what you gotta do... That said, I know of a few owners in the EU who have had diesel bug - seems more prevalent with biodiesel.

One idea to reduce filling time (900/8 = nearly two hours!!) is to use the Baja Filter to fill up our spare 20liter jerry can and then inspect the Baja filter. If all is good, just fill up the boat without the filter.

3) I use BioBor JF. I don't know if it's the best, but I found a bottle in the US that was enough to treat 10,000 liters, so that was my decision making criteria.
4) I have 10 micron Racor filters in the water separator filters. I carry 15 filters aboard.  Two micron in the Volvo, per spec.
5) Pray.

What do you all do to ensure you aren't stricken by the bug?


--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

Re: Paranoia about the D3-110 Volvo Penta - diesel bug

ngtnewington Newington
 

Hi Scott,

Cleanliness is next to Godliness! 

So a certain amount of paranoia is a good thing. I did spend some time considering installing a fuel polishing system but in the end I decided to just keep a good eye on the primary fuel filters. Remember that when you run the engine or the generator most of the fuel is returned to the tank having been through the whole filter system. There is thus a good deal of self polishing from use.

Nick

S/Y Amelia AML 54 019
Kilada Greece

On 9 Feb 2020, at 14:28, Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:

My paranoia about my Volvo D3-110 (rev c) has been kicked back into high gear. I think this applies to anyone with a diesel engine but particularly with the hyper sensitive D3-110.

I know a few A54 owners with failed D3-110 due to water ingress. We've discussed that on another thread. I'll leave that discussion there.

Recently I met a HR46 owner who had to lag behind the World ARC ($$$$!) because of diesel bug issues on his D3-110C. Another HR48 owner had the same issue and in both cases, the engine died and wouldn't start back up. His tank was disgusting, apparently. I've opened my inspection hatches and my tank is nearly pristine. But I am not going to rest on my laurels. 

What do you guys do to keep your fuel system clean? Here's my procedure and I hope I can improve on it with your help:

1) Diesel only from places that get high turnover. We aim for duty-free, so they're usually in high demand.
2) Outside of the US and EU, we use the Baja filter. Damn slow at only around 8liters per minute, but you gotta do what you gotta do... That said, I know of a few owners in the EU who have had diesel bug - seems more prevalent with biodiesel.

One idea to reduce filling time (900/8 = nearly two hours!!) is to use the Baja Filter to fill up our spare 20liter jerry can and then inspect the Baja filter. If all is good, just fill up the boat without the filter.

3) I use BioBor JF. I don't know if it's the best, but I found a bottle in the US that was enough to treat 10,000 liters, so that was my decision making criteria.
4) I have 10 micron Racor filters in the water separator filters. I carry 15 filters aboard.  Two micron in the Volvo, per spec.
5) Pray.

What do you all do to ensure you aren't stricken by the bug?


--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

Re: A54 bow thruster directly to battery or through main switches?

Wolfgang Weber
 

Scott,
When we received our 8 month and 800 sm old Amel 54 the bowthruster stopped to work because one cableshoe pressed on a very short cable on the motor was inside burned and produced its own electrical isolation .
Greetings Wolfgang Weber SY Elise Amel 54#162





Re: Paranoia about the D3-110 Volvo Penta - diesel bug

Wolfgang Weber
 

Hi Scott,
The problem is ( in EU) Diesel contains 7 % Biodiesel which is hydrophil and this will bring water into the diesel and growth of bacteria = the dieselbug will follow.
A good tested product in Germany is Grotamar , but you will find similar poducts in US.
I use it since first filling.
Wolfgang Weber SY Elise Amel 54 #162




Re: Paranoia about the D3-110 Volvo Penta - diesel bug

Porter McRoberts
 

Exactly all of what you do Scott.  I also have about 20 2 micron racors and use the 2 micron as pre filters.  I change more frequently too. Every 100 hrs or so.  Id love to install a fuel polishing system.  We use the biocide etc.  On the BAJA we use the “Mr. Funnel system (amazon)” with two screens: it's very fast, as fast as I can pour from a Jerry can.  
And, of course as you suggest, lots of prayer.
As you know we had lots of D3 issues.  Even though our new “H” model runs beautifully, I would have gotten a Beta, had I been paying for it.  

Best of Luck

Porter
S/V IBIS A54-152


On Feb 9, 2020, at 9:28 AM, Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:

My paranoia about my Volvo D3-110 (rev c) has been kicked back into high gear. I think this applies to anyone with a diesel engine but particularly with the hyper sensitive D3-110.

I know a few A54 owners with failed D3-110 due to water ingress. We've discussed that on another thread. I'll leave that discussion there.

Recently I met a HR46 owner who had to lag behind the World ARC ($$$$!) because of diesel bug issues on his D3-110C. Another HR48 owner had the same issue and in both cases, the engine died and wouldn't start back up. His tank was disgusting, apparently. I've opened my inspection hatches and my tank is nearly pristine. But I am not going to rest on my laurels. 

What do you guys do to keep your fuel system clean? Here's my procedure and I hope I can improve on it with your help:

1) Diesel only from places that get high turnover. We aim for duty-free, so they're usually in high demand.
2) Outside of the US and EU, we use the Baja filter. Damn slow at only around 8liters per minute, but you gotta do what you gotta do... That said, I know of a few owners in the EU who have had diesel bug - seems more prevalent with biodiesel.

One idea to reduce filling time (900/8 = nearly two hours!!) is to use the Baja Filter to fill up our spare 20liter jerry can and then inspect the Baja filter. If all is good, just fill up the boat without the filter.

3) I use BioBor JF. I don't know if it's the best, but I found a bottle in the US that was enough to treat 10,000 liters, so that was my decision making criteria.
4) I have 10 micron Racor filters in the water separator filters. I carry 15 filters aboard.  Two micron in the Volvo, per spec.
5) Pray.

What do you all do to ensure you aren't stricken by the bug?


--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

Paranoia about the D3-110 Volvo Penta - diesel bug

Scott SV Tengah
 

My paranoia about my Volvo D3-110 (rev c) has been kicked back into high gear. I think this applies to anyone with a diesel engine but particularly with the hyper sensitive D3-110.

I know a few A54 owners with failed D3-110 due to water ingress. We've discussed that on another thread. I'll leave that discussion there.

Recently I met a HR46 owner who had to lag behind the World ARC ($$$$!) because of diesel bug issues on his D3-110C. Another HR48 owner had the same issue and in both cases, the engine died and wouldn't start back up. His tank was disgusting, apparently. I've opened my inspection hatches and my tank is nearly pristine. But I am not going to rest on my laurels. 

What do you guys do to keep your fuel system clean? Here's my procedure and I hope I can improve on it with your help:

1) Diesel only from places that get high turnover. We aim for duty-free, so they're usually in high demand.
2) Outside of the US and EU, we use the Baja filter. Damn slow at only around 8liters per minute, but you gotta do what you gotta do... That said, I know of a few owners in the EU who have had diesel bug - seems more prevalent with biodiesel.

One idea to reduce filling time (900/8 = nearly two hours!!) is to use the Baja Filter to fill up our spare 20liter jerry can and then inspect the Baja filter. If all is good, just fill up the boat without the filter.

3) I use BioBor JF. I don't know if it's the best, but I found a bottle in the US that was enough to treat 10,000 liters, so that was my decision making criteria.
4) I have 10 micron Racor filters in the water separator filters. I carry 15 filters aboard.  Two micron in the Volvo, per spec.
5) Pray.

What do you all do to ensure you aren't stricken by the bug?


--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

Re: SM Prop Shaft Seal direction and Bushing

Scott SV Tengah
 

Mike,

I have two aft seals facing out and fore seal facing in. "facing" to me indicates which way the spring is.

I am about 650 hours on these seals and zero water ingress and zero drop in oil level. It was probably a bad installation but previously I did it "the Amel way" and had to haul out again at around 300 hours due to milky c drive oil.

PS - where are you getting the work done in NZ? We will be there in November and will be due for a haul out then.
--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

Re: A54 bow thruster directly to battery or through main switches?

Scott SV Tengah
 

Our bow thruster was indeed wired through a switch, too.

I've worked with Sleipner to try to isolate the intermittent functioning problem to no avail. It runs full speed and then stops momentarily and then will start again. No slowdown to indicate drop in voltage. The Amel joystick has been cleaned and tested and shows nearly zero ohms on activation.

Every switch and thermal protection within the Sidepower thruster has been "jumpered" and it still doesn't work. I was hoping the problem was the main battery switch but I moved the positive bow thruster supply wire from the secondary side of the switch directly to the battery side. The only thing left is the motor itself but the brushes and commutator look perfect. The annoying bit is that this motor is only a year old and Sleipner wants me to ship it back to them from Panama at my cost, wait for them to test it, get warranty approval, ship it back (at my cost) and pay customs duty. I might as well buy a new motor! With a canal appointment, I clearly don't want to do this.

Anyone have any other ideas on what I should check? I haven't tested voltage at the BT during operation because I don't have alligator clips, but the fact that the BT either runs full speed or not at all, without any slowdown indicates to me that it's not an issue with enough voltage getting to the BT.


--Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

Re: SM Prop Shaft Seal direction and Bushing

Craig & Katherine Briggs
 

Hi Mike,
I suspect there is nothing new on this nor any particular consensus - it may well have migrated from engineering to philosophy ;-)
If yours is fine you may want to follow the adage of, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it".  Or change it and in a couple of years add to the anecdotal evidence being accumulated.
Cheers, Craig

Re: rub rail insert

Elja Röllinghoff Balu SM 222
 

He Steve
i am intrested by the video too
Best Elja
SM Balu
#222



Von meinem iPhone gesendet

Re: rub rail insert

Patrick McAneny
 

Steve, I would like to see the video,we are only six boats apart as I am #123. You could send it direct if you like , to sailw32@... ,or post it,others may be interested.
Thanks,
Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Bode <Whatsup@...>
To: main <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Sent: Sat, Feb 8, 2020 10:24 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] rub rail insert

We did this job on Intention. It was not tricky...once we did it. Two man job, 45 min.
I can send you the video.

--
Steve Bode
Capt. SV Intention
Amel SM #117 (1994)
+1 415 710-6659 Mobile/Text/WhatsApp
facebook.com/stevebodesanfrancisco
svintention.com

Re: Engine Mounts and Decoupling Vetus/Engine Block

Herbert Lackner
 

Woody,  search for "alignment" in the forum and you will find a lot of information, also what kind of mounts you need

a summary with info from Olivier:
 

in order to re-align your engine with the C-drive, you need a fixed coupling as on the pictures and drawing.

You don't need to install the shaft alternator pulley while checking alignment. 

 

Before touching the tools, make pictures and take notes (measurements of all the fittings, position of the nuts on the rubber mounts, position of the engine on the steel cradle, position of the shaft brake disc, etc...).

Start with disconnecting the hoses that could prevent you from moving the engine backwards on its cradle.

Then undo the coupling bolts and the engine steel supports' bolts (attaching the engine on the steel cradle).

Then move the engine backwards enough to remove the coupling bolts.

 

Then comes the alignment process.

AMEL uses a tool which is a steel coupling machined so that its aft side "enters" the gear-box flange (see pictures and drawing). You can also pre-install the new coupling and adjust the position of the mounts.

First bring the engine forward and make sure the coupling is centered with the gear-box flange, and can enter the gap in the flange. 

Then move the engine a little bit backwards and check that the gap between the flange and the aft side of the coupler is even all around the circumference. To adjust this, you need "thickness wedges" (used in the automotive industry) and play with the rubber mounts nuts to make the gap even.

Then bring the engine forward and tighten the bolts on the cradle and on the mounts.

 

The advantage of using the tool AMEL uses is that it is easier to install while checking the gaps.

If you need to make one, here's a drawing of the alignment tool for a YANMAR 4JH3-HTE.

The inside diameter (C-drive input shaft) is 35 mm.

The outside diameter is 100 mm.

The diameter of the part that enters the gear-box flange cylindric gap is 62.8 mm, thickness 3 mm.

 

You should use a VETUS fixed coupling for 35mm shafts, then have it machined to make the 62.8mm "plug" and drilled for the four bolts that should match the flange holes.


The process is the same for Santorins or for Super Maramus.


more info from me: 
* Amel does not sell the alignment tool, I had it made by a machine shop from Aluminium
* I would change also the C-Drive mounts when you change the engine mounts.
* Make sure that the c-drive is "open" and "sits on his rubber sleeve" before you do the engine alignment.
* I used a tool like this to lift the engine https://www.expondo.at/steinberg-systems-kettenzug-2-000-kg-3-m-10030374?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIw9i79ZrE5wIVFuDtCh07Aw33EAQYAiABEgKPs_D_BwE . the job can be done by one person

fair winds, herbert
SN120



Re: Engine Mounts and Decoupling Vetus/Engine Block

Herbert Lackner
 

attached you find the fotos of the alignment tool with the shaft alternator.  it works, - but if I would build the tool again I would make it longer.

fair winds, herbert

Re: Engine Mounts and Decoupling Vetus/Engine Block

eric freedman
 

Hi Herbert,

Being that the disk brake has a long hub on it , I believe the normal alignment tool will work. The length of the hub on the brake disk compensates for the pulley on the alternator.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Herbert Lackner
Sent: Friday, February 07, 2020 11:43 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Engine Mounts and Decoupling Vetus/Engine Block

 

Woody,

having the Amel shaft alternator you should make the "alignment tool" longer as you have to take away the shaft alternator pulley for doing the alignment. It works if you have the tool according to the spec that you find in the forum, but if I would do it again I would add the width of the pulley to the length of the tool, would make the alignment much easier.  the process for the alignment itself is easy, in the water or on the hard, and you find all relevant information in the forum.

I had problems to get the vetus coupling of the drive-shaft, but with a hammer, a big puller and a lot of time it worked.

herbert, SN120

Re: vetus coupling removal

eric freedman
 

Hi Michelle,

Thank you for the excellent write-up of the work on your C drive. Do you happen to have a version in English?

I could not open it to cut out portions to translate.

Thanks

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of MICHELE LUCCIOLA
Sent: Wednesday, January 22, 2020 12:26 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] vetus coupling removal

 

Hi Herbert,
I did this job the last year....the only suggestion I can tell you is to remove the  gearbox with the  the vetus coupling installed (just dismount the fixings on the flange on the engine); in this way you can easily remove the axle on a bench because the space to work with the engine installed is very unconfortable. In fact also if you want to use an extractor (I did one with long arms) you have to pull the engine back to have a little bit of room....anyway you have to use not gentle manners to have a good results...but is better to work on a bench that in the engine compartment...in this way you can also change the  seal of the gearbox easily once removed the little shaft.
Just for your use i attach a pdf in which there is an explanation of the job....but I prefer to put the gearbox out of the boat with the shaft attached and to do the job in a confortable and safe way...
regards
Michele