Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bottom Paint time

Germain Jean-Pierre <jgermain@...>
 

Hello Pat,

I have the same problem regarding the Velox… less than 10 hours after application, it had vanished….

Jean-Pierre Germain,
SY Eleuthera, Amel Super Maramu 007



On 25 Aug 2016, at 13:44, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Duane, If your boat is in fresh or brackish water and will remain in it for more than a day or so before going into salt water , make sure the paint you select is compatible with fresh water. Some paints cannot be in fresh water longer , or its antifouling properties are destroyed. I almost made this mistake but was saved by a yard employee. I called and confirmed this with the paint manufacturer. I would never have thought it mattered what kind of water one is in.
I do not know if this is true for Velox prop paint , but I applied three coats three months ago and just hauled my boat. My prop was covered with barnacles , I wasted about $130 and a lot of time/work .I wrote a long email to their rep. for an explaination and never heard back .

Pat SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Wed, Aug 24, 2016 7:02 pm
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bottom Paint time

 
I'd like your opinion on how many coats of bottom paint to use.  We plan on heading into the eastern Caribbean on November 1 and we plan on pulling the boat now for bottom paint, C-Drive, prop and bow thruster maintenance.  I hadn't thought about more than one coat, but it is something the marine center offers so I wondered...

A little history:

In Feb 2015 my boat had a bottom job that included sanding to remove all for a start-over on the bottom, 1 coat of Seahawk Tuff Stuff Barrier Coat, fairing, and then 3 coats of Seahawk Tuff Stuff Barrier Coat and two coats of Seahawk CuKote bottom paint.

Seaawk CuKote is advertised as a multi-season paint.  Based on two coats 18 months ago I'm thinking one coat now would set me up for at least a year or more. 

I'm assuming when we pull the boat all is well with the bottom.  

Would your experience dictate more than one coat? 
 
Duane
SM#477 Wanderer




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bottom Paint time

Patrick McAneny
 

Duane, If your boat is in fresh or brackish water and will remain in it for more than a day or so before going into salt water , make sure the paint you select is compatible with fresh water. Some paints cannot be in fresh water longer , or its antifouling properties are destroyed. I almost made this mistake but was saved by a yard employee. I called and confirmed this with the paint manufacturer. I would never have thought it mattered what kind of water one is in.
I do not know if this is true for Velox prop paint , but I applied three coats three months ago and just hauled my boat. My prop was covered with barnacles , I wasted about $130 and a lot of time/work .I wrote a long email to their rep. for an explaination and never heard back .

Pat SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Wed, Aug 24, 2016 7:02 pm
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bottom Paint time

 
I'd like your opinion on how many coats of bottom paint to use.  We plan on heading into the eastern Caribbean on November 1 and we plan on pulling the boat now for bottom paint, C-Drive, prop and bow thruster maintenance.  I hadn't thought about more than one coat, but it is something the marine center offers so I wondered...

A little history:

In Feb 2015 my boat had a bottom job that included sanding to remove all for a start-over on the bottom, 1 coat of Seahawk Tuff Stuff Barrier Coat, fairing, and then 3 coats of Seahawk Tuff Stuff Barrier Coat and two coats of Seahawk CuKote bottom paint.

Seaawk CuKote is advertised as a multi-season paint.  Based on two coats 18 months ago I'm thinking one coat now would set me up for at least a year or more. 

I'm assuming when we pull the boat all is well with the bottom.  

Would your experience dictate more than one coat? 
 
Duane
SM#477 Wanderer


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bottom Paint time

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Good morning Duane,

I have only own my vessel for 4 years, but at each haul out I had 2 coats put on, plus a 3rd at the water line.

Last time, March 2015, I actually had put 2 different colors: first red, then blue and I really like that as it helps me monitor the progress.
17 months later, I can see the leading edge (hull, keel and rudder) are the first to show the red paint.

Note: (and I could tell a story about that) Supervise and make sure when they paint your hull that they move the stands and not paint around them, simply adding a coat before putting you back in the water.

Note: based on the previous owner experience I paint the propeller of the bow thruster with “white” antifouling, so in the case I loose one (happened only once), it will be easier to find.

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico



--------------------------------------------

On Wed, 8/24/16, sailor63109@yahoo.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bottom Paint time
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, August 24, 2016, 6:02 PM


 









I'd like your opinion on how many coats of
bottom paint to use.  We plan on heading into the eastern
Caribbean on November 1 and we plan on pulling the boat now
for bottom paint, C-Drive, prop and bow thruster
maintenance.  I hadn't thought about more than one
coat, but it is something the marine center offers so I
wondered...
A little
history:
In Feb 2015
my boat had a bottom job that included sanding to remove all
for a start-over on the bottom, 1 coat of Seahawk Tuff Stuff
Barrier Coat, fairing, and then 3 coats of Seahawk Tuff
Stuff Barrier Coat and two coats of Seahawk CuKote bottom
paint.
Seaawk CuKote
is advertised as a multi-season paint.  Based on two coats
18 months ago I'm thinking one coat now would set me up
for at least a year or more. 
I'm assuming when we pull the
boat all is well with the bottom.  
Would your experience dictate
more than one coat?  DuaneSM#477
Wanderer









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Re: Bottom Paint time

Alan Leslie
 

We're not in the Caribbean but in the Pacific.
We used Seahawk Cukote in 2014 before heading to Tahiti, it seemed to be OK until we arrived in New Zealand. After 3 months in the marina at gulf harbour we had a vegetable garden growing underneath, neighbouring boats didn't have this issue.
The Seahawk dealer didn't want to know about my fouling issues.
I since learnt that the executives of the company that makes Seahawk products were prosecuted (jailed?) for continuing to sell tin based paints in the US when they declared to the FDA that they had stopped. 
We since changed to Micron 77 ( I used micron 66 on my previous boat for years with excellent results except for one year which I believe was due to the painter adding thinners to the antifouling - Bill, Bebe knows all about that!) and it seems to be good.
My two penny worth.....
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437
Koumac, New Caledonia


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bottom Paint time

Bill Kinney <greatketch@...>
 

Duane,

CuKote is an ablative paint.  It is a bit simplistic to say with that kind of paint the more you put on the longer it lasts, but that is pretty much true.  A second coat of paint is not a big expense--compared to the cost of a haul out.  Postponing your next haulout by 6 months pretty much pays for the extra coat of paint.  In my mind the economics suggest an extra coat is a good idea.

Also the manufacturer’s instructions specifiy using two coats.  That’s what they base the life span predictions on, so it is what I would do.  If you were to have a paint failure, and didn’t follow instructions, they would be unlikely to feel the need to make you happy.

Boatyards pretty much always quote “one coat” to keep the coast of the job down. A yard quoting two coat jobs would lose a lot of business.

With any ablative paint, I do two coats, with a third along the waterline and leading edges of keel and rudder or rudder skeg.

Bill Kinney
SM #160, Harmonie
Narragansett Bay, RI
“Ships and men rot in port."





On Aug 24, 2016, at 19:02, sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

I'd like your opinion on how many coats of bottom paint to use.  We plan on heading into the eastern Caribbean on November 1 and we plan on pulling the boat now for bottom paint, C-Drive, prop and bow thruster maintenance.  I hadn't thought about more than one coat, but it is something the marine center offers so I wondered...


A little history:

In Feb 2015 my boat had a bottom job that included sanding to remove all for a start-over on the bottom, 1 coat of Seahawk Tuff Stuff Barrier Coat, fairing, and then 3 coats of Seahawk Tuff Stuff Barrier Coat and two coats of Seahawk CuKote bottom paint.

Seaawk CuKote is advertised as a multi-season paint.  Based on two coats 18 months ago I'm thinking one coat now would set me up for at least a year or more. 

I'm assuming when we pull the boat all is well with the bottom.  

Would your experience dictate more than one coat? 
 
Duane
SM#477 Wanderer



Bottom Paint time

Duane Siegfri
 

I'd like your opinion on how many coats of bottom paint to use.  We plan on heading into the eastern Caribbean on November 1 and we plan on pulling the boat now for bottom paint, C-Drive, prop and bow thruster maintenance.  I hadn't thought about more than one coat, but it is something the marine center offers so I wondered...

A little history:

In Feb 2015 my boat had a bottom job that included sanding to remove all for a start-over on the bottom, 1 coat of Seahawk Tuff Stuff Barrier Coat, fairing, and then 3 coats of Seahawk Tuff Stuff Barrier Coat and two coats of Seahawk CuKote bottom paint.

Seaawk CuKote is advertised as a multi-season paint.  Based on two coats 18 months ago I'm thinking one coat now would set me up for at least a year or more. 

I'm assuming when we pull the boat all is well with the bottom.  

Would your experience dictate more than one coat? 
 
Duane
SM#477 Wanderer


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow thruster Vibration

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

Pat don't you know it's not a good idea to go rockbass fishing with your bow thruster😃

Fair Winds Smooth Sailing 
Capt Richard Piller
Newport RI 
Cell 603 767 5330

On Aug 24, 2016, at 08:28, sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

I promised I would post when I determined the source of the vibration in my bow thruster. It turns out that one of the blades on the prop was completely broken off at the hub. I have no idea how it happened , I had only employed the thruster for a few seconds , twice ,since launching the boat this spring and that was after servicing the thruster. I don't recall any noise like hitting something , puzzled. Where it broke the fiberglass is about an inch thick , it would have to take a lot of force , strange that the screws did not break first. The force even bent the stainless pin and the pin elongated the hole in the hub a 1/4 ". Once again , I am amazed that the screws did not break first.

Pat

SM Shenanigans #123





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow thruster Vibration

Patrick McAneny
 

Bill, No , It came with the boat and have always assumed it came from Amel. Looked and fit well.
Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Wed, Aug 24, 2016 8:43 am
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow thruster Vibration

 
Pat,
I suspected this was the source. I have seen two different non-Amel made fiberglass bow thruster propellers and I am aware of a third made of aluminum.
I saw each of the non-Amel made fiberglass propellers lose a blade for no obvious reasons.
Do you know the origin of your propeller?
Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On Aug 24, 2016 7:28 AM, "sailw32@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
I promised I would post when I determined the source of the vibration in my bow thruster. It turns out that one of the blades on the prop was completely broken off at the hub. I have no idea how it happened , I had only employed the thruster for a few seconds , twice ,since launching the boat this spring and that was after servicing the thruster. I don't recall any noise like hitting something , puzzled. Where it broke the fiberglass is about an inch thick , it would have to take a lot of force , strange that the screws did not break first. The force even bent the stainless pin and the pin elongated the hole in the hub a 1/4 ". Once again , I am amazed that the screws did not break first.
Pat
SM Shenanigans #123




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow thruster Vibration

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Good morning Pat,

Thanks for letting us know…

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico




--------------------------------------------

On Wed, 8/24/16, sailw32@aol.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow thruster Vibration
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, August 24, 2016, 7:28 AM


 









I promised I would post when I
determined the source of the vibration in my bow thruster.
It turns out that one of the blades on the prop was
completely broken off at the hub. I have no idea how it
happened , I had only employed the thruster for a few
seconds , twice ,since launching the boat this spring and
that was after servicing the thruster. I don't recall
any noise like hitting something , puzzled. Where it broke
the fiberglass is about an inch thick , it would have to
take a lot of force , strange that the screws did not break
first. The force even bent the stainless pin and the pin
elongated the hole in the hub a 1/4 ". Once again , I
am amazed that the screws did not break
first.Pat SM
Shenanigans #123


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow thruster Vibration

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Pat,

I suspected this was the source. I have seen two different non-Amel made fiberglass bow thruster propellers and I am aware of a third made of aluminum.

I saw each of the non-Amel made fiberglass propellers lose a blade for no obvious reasons.

Do you know the origin of your propeller?

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Aug 24, 2016 7:28 AM, "sailw32@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

I promised I would post when I determined the source of the vibration in my bow thruster. It turns out that one of the blades on the prop was completely broken off at the hub. I have no idea how it happened , I had only employed the thruster for a few seconds , twice ,since launching the boat this spring and that was after servicing the thruster. I don't recall any noise like hitting something , puzzled. Where it broke the fiberglass is about an inch thick , it would have to take a lot of force , strange that the screws did not break first. The force even bent the stainless pin and the pin elongated the hole in the hub a 1/4 ". Once again , I am amazed that the screws did not break first.

Pat

SM Shenanigans #123





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Haul out parts from Amel

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

I am certain that it is a typo. screws = typo.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Aug 24, 2016 6:26 AM, "Andrew Lamb andrew.lamb@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

I wonder if that was meant to read

 

Bronze prop shaft bushing and seals (not Bronze prop shaft and screws) – i.e. for the C-Drive

 

Andrew

 

Ronpische

SM 472

 

 

 

I asked for a list of parts from Amel to service the Bow Thruster and C-Drive.  I also asked that they let me know if there was something else commonly ordered for that service.  Maud's response is below.  Is the third item (Bronze prop shaft and screws) for the Bow Thruster needed?

 

-Set of seals for the bowthruster including 3 foam seals, 1 lip seal for the shaft and 1 lip seal for the lower unit: 51.69 euros without taxes and without transport.

 

-Complete bowthruster propeller: 232.93 euros without taxes and without transport. The propeller is already fitted with the hub and nylon screws. Please tell me if you need extra hub and screws as they can be sold separately.

 

-Bronze prop shaft and screws: 167.80 euros without taxes and without transport.

 

-Set of 2 seals for transmission oil drain plug: 3.15 euros without taxes and without transport.

 

Thanks,

Duane  Wanderer, SM#477

 


Bow thruster Vibration

Patrick McAneny
 

I promised I would post when I determined the source of the vibration in my bow thruster. It turns out that one of the blades on the prop was completely broken off at the hub. I have no idea how it happened , I had only employed the thruster for a few seconds , twice ,since launching the boat this spring and that was after servicing the thruster. I don't recall any noise like hitting something , puzzled. Where it broke the fiberglass is about an inch thick , it would have to take a lot of force , strange that the screws did not break first. The force even bent the stainless pin and the pin elongated the hole in the hub a 1/4 ". Once again , I am amazed that the screws did not break first.

Pat

SM Shenanigans #123





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Haul out parts from Amel

Andrew & Kate Lamb
 

I wonder if that was meant to read

 

Bronze prop shaft bushing and seals (not Bronze prop shaft and screws) – i.e. for the C-Drive

 

Andrew

 

Ronpische

SM 472

 

From: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...> on behalf of "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...>
Reply-To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: Wednesday, 24 August 2016 at 13:08
To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...>
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Haul out parts from Amel

 

 

I asked for a list of parts from Amel to service the Bow Thruster and C-Drive.  I also asked that they let me know if there was something else commonly ordered for that service.  Maud's response is below.  Is the third item (Bronze prop shaft and screws) for the Bow Thruster needed?

 

-Set of seals for the bowthruster including 3 foam seals, 1 lip seal for the shaft and 1 lip seal for the lower unit: 51.69 euros without taxes and without transport.

 

-Complete bowthruster propeller: 232.93 euros without taxes and without transport. The propeller is already fitted with the hub and nylon screws. Please tell me if you need extra hub and screws as they can be sold separately.

 

-Bronze prop shaft and screws: 167.80 euros without taxes and without transport.

 

-Set of 2 seals for transmission oil drain plug: 3.15 euros without taxes and without transport.

 

Thanks,

Duane  Wanderer, SM#477

 


Haul out parts from Amel

Duane Siegfri
 

I asked for a list of parts from Amel to service the Bow Thruster and C-Drive.  I also asked that they let me know if there was something else commonly ordered for that service.  Maud's response is below.  Is the third item (Bronze prop shaft and screws) for the Bow Thruster needed?


-Set of seals for the bowthruster including 3 foam seals, 1 lip seal for the shaft and 1 lip seal for the lower unit: 51.69 euros without taxes and without transport.

 

-Complete bowthruster propeller: 232.93 euros without taxes and without transport. The propeller is already fitted with the hub and nylon screws. Please tell me if you need extra hub and screws as they can be sold separately.

 

-Bronze prop shaft and screws: 167.80 euros without taxes and without transport.

 

-Set of 2 seals for transmission oil drain plug: 3.15 euros without taxes and without transport.


Thanks,

Duane  Wanderer, SM#477



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Perkins 4236 Anodes

Peter Buckley <carhartt@...>
 

Hi Pat,
Thanks for the information.
All good now. I have stopped looking.
Regards
Pete

Gradiva
Mango #70
Raymond Island 
Australia

-- 
Peter Buckley

83 Twelfth Avenue
Raymond Island VIC 3880

Phone: 0428 427 786

Email: carhartt@...


From: "Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
Reply-To: <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2016 08:29:48 -0400
To: <amelyachtowners@...>
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Perkins 4236 Anodes

 

Peter, I have a Volvo TMD 22a (Perkins) and it does not have an anode.
Pat SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Mon, Aug 22, 2016 1:57 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Perkins 4236 Anodes

 
Peter,

I can not speak specifically to your engine, but not every engine was designed with anodes.   Some freshwater cooled Volvos, for example, don't use them. 

If a search of the owners manual and shop manual turn up no references to anodes, you might not have them. 

Bill Kinney
Harmonie, SM160
Narragansett Bay, RI 

On Aug 22, 2016, at 10:25, Peter Buckley carhartt@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 
Hi to all,

I have a question about the anode on my Mango’s Perkins 4236 engine. There doesn’t  seem to be one on the engine or any piping for the engine cooling system.
There are two anodes on the prop shaft as well as the rudder ones. Is this something that wasn’t required? 
I have had a look in the files and can find no reference.
Any help or advice would be appreciated.
Regards
Peter

Gradiva
Mango #70
Raymond Island 
Australia

-- 
Peter Buckley

83 Twelfth Avenue
Raymond Island VIC 3880

Phone: 0428 427 786



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] rubber Rub Rail gutter

svperegrinus@yahoo.com
 

18 months ago in Fort Lauderdale we only polished (and re-touched a couple of spots) in the brown rubrail.

The silver accent in the middle, however, was falling apart.  With great effort, it was entirely removed and new tape silver tape was installed.  The new tape looks as good today as it did then.  It is shiny in daylight but not reflective at night; it would be better if it were.

Here are the specs:

Maker: Universal Products (Goddard, Kansas)
Brand: TFX Professional Striping Systems
Width: 1 inch
Color: Ult. Mt. Silver (UM Silver)
Exterior Durability: "5 to 7 years"

Cheerio,

Peregrinus
SM2K N. 350 (2002)
At anchor, Golfo Aranci, Olbia - Sardinia



Great technical resource for Perkins and Hurth

greatketch@...
 

This might be old news for many of you who have been maintaining Perkins engines and Hurth transmissions for years, but for anybody else for whom it can help, here is a great technical and parts resource for these machines that was new to me:


Dr. Diesel's Tech Tips | Foley Engines


I know a fair bit about diesel engines, but learned a lot more just browsing through their website's tips. They were also quick to get me a new oil cooler for my transmission.


Bill Kinney

Harmonie, SM#160

Narragansett Bay, RI

fetchinketch



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] rubber Rub Rail gutter

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

The previous owner of my vessel also put reflective tape:
http://nikimat.com/marking/nikimat_1.jpg

I think this is a good idea as well

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico






--------------------------------------------

On Tue, 8/23/16, Ric Gottschalk ric@kitchenmagic.net [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] rubber Rub Rail gutter
To: "amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Tuesday, August 23, 2016, 8:59 AM


 












Better than painting, I put 1" reflective tape
on center of the rub rail. Now I can almost always find my
boat coming back from a night of rum beverages in a crowded
anchorage.
Bali Hai SN
24
Annapolis



Ric Gottschalk
Kitchen Magic Refacers, Inc
Office 410-923-5800
Fax 410-923-5802



On Aug 23, 2016, at 8:01 AM, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@aol.com
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
wrote:





 


Cheers,  I
applied two coats of awlgrip , using the roll and tip
method, after filling any flaws and sanding. I applied a
colored tape stripe in depressed area in the middle of the
rubrail , I think one inch wide,
easier than taping out top and bottom and painting the
insert/depressed area.

Hope this helps,
Pat SM#123






-----Original
Message-----

From: tfortner1975@gmail.com
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>

To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Mon, Aug 22, 2016 7:04 pm

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] rubber Rub Rail gutter




 




Hello Pat and Bill,



Could you give the
info regarding paint / wax you used for the rub
rail? 



Cheers
On Aug 22, 2016, at 8:07 AM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse'

yahoogroups@svbebe.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
wrote:





 


Pat,
That is a great way to do the job!
Bill Rouse

BeBe Amel 53 #387

Sent from my tablet

+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Aug 22, 2016 6:27
AM, "Patrick Mcaneny
sailw32@aol.com [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
wrote:


 




Mike, When I
painted my rub rail I did not remove it , I just lifted the
edge and slid a piece of probably 1/4" line under it to
hold it up and out of the way . After painting ,just pulled
the line out, very simple.

Pat SM #123







-----Original
Message-----

From: 'Mike Ondra' mdondra@verizon.net
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.
com>

To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.
com>

Sent: Sun, Aug 21, 2016 5:58 pm

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] rubber Rub Rail gutter




 





We are repainting the
rubrail after 16 years of doing its job. How easy or
difficult has the experience been to remove the rubber rub
rail gutter and then re-install it. The cross-sectional
drawing detail implies this should be a fairly
easy task of pulling up on the inboard side of the gutter
and rotating the gutter up and out, the outboard side being
“notched” around the edge of the fiberglass forming the
rub rail. Installation would be the reverse, perhaps
benefitting from a little lubrication.
Our concern is that the rubber has hardened and stiffened
over the years and may not be sufficiently pliable to
accomplish removal and installation easily.

Mike Ondra
S/V Aletes SM#240
Rock Hall, MD


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] rubber Rub Rail gutter

Ric Gottschalk <ric@...>
 

Better than painting, I put 1" reflective tape on center of the rub rail. Now I can almost always find my boat coming back from a night of rum beverages in a crowded anchorage.
Bali Hai SN 24
Annapolis

Ric Gottschalk
Kitchen Magic Refacers, Inc
Office 410-923-5800
Fax 410-923-5802

On Aug 23, 2016, at 8:01 AM, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Cheers,  I applied two coats of awlgrip , using the roll and tip method, after filling any flaws and sanding. I applied a colored tape stripe in depressed area in the middle of the rubrail , I think one inch wide, easier than taping out top and bottom and painting the insert/depressed area.
Hope this helps,
Pat SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: tfortner1975@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Mon, Aug 22, 2016 7:04 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] rubber Rub Rail gutter

 
Hello Pat and Bill,

Could you give the info regarding paint / wax you used for the rub rail? 

Cheers


On Aug 22, 2016, at 8:07 AM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 
Pat,
That is a great way to do the job!
Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On Aug 22, 2016 6:27 AM, "Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
Mike, When I painted my rub rail I did not remove it , I just lifted the edge and slid a piece of probably 1/4" line under it to hold it up and out of the way . After painting ,just pulled the line out, very simple.
Pat SM #123



-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mike Ondra' mdondra@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sun, Aug 21, 2016 5:58 pm
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] rubber Rub Rail gutter

 
We are repainting the rubrail after 16 years of doing its job. How easy or difficult has the experience been to remove the rubber rub rail gutter and then re-install it. The cross-sectional drawing detail implies this should be a fairly easy task of pulling up on the inboard side of the gutter and rotating the gutter up and out, the outboard side being “notched” around the edge of the fiberglass forming the rub rail. Installation would be the reverse, perhaps benefitting from a little lubrication. Our concern is that the rubber has hardened and stiffened over the years and may not be sufficiently pliable to accomplish removal and installation easily.
Mike Ondra
S/V Aletes SM#240
Rock Hall, MD
 
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Perkins 4236 Anodes

Patrick McAneny
 

Peter, I have a Volvo TMD 22a (Perkins) and it does not have an anode.
Pat SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Mon, Aug 22, 2016 1:57 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Perkins 4236 Anodes

 
Peter,

I can not speak specifically to your engine, but not every engine was designed with anodes.   Some freshwater cooled Volvos, for example, don't use them. 

If a search of the owners manual and shop manual turn up no references to anodes, you might not have them. 

Bill Kinney
Harmonie, SM160
Narragansett Bay, RI 

On Aug 22, 2016, at 10:25, Peter Buckley carhartt@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 
Hi to all,

I have a question about the anode on my Mango’s Perkins 4236 engine. There doesn’t  seem to be one on the engine or any piping for the engine cooling system.
There are two anodes on the prop shaft as well as the rudder ones. Is this something that wasn’t required? 
I have had a look in the files and can find no reference.
Any help or advice would be appreciated.
Regards
Peter

Gradiva
Mango #70
Raymond Island 
Australia

-- 
Peter Buckley

83 Twelfth Avenue
Raymond Island VIC 3880

Phone: 0428 427 786