On Jul 13, 2020, at 7:16 PM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:



Most likely a sticking solenoid. If you run the water maker frequently you should contact Dessalator.com for a new one. If you haven't run it for a while, monitor it and replace if it continues. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse 
Amel Owners Yacht School
+1 832-380-4970 | brouse@...
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com 
Yacht School Calendar: www.preparetocastoff.blogspot.com/p/calendar.html


   

On Mon, Jul 13, 2020, 5:20 PM Stefan Schaufert <mail@...> wrote:

Dear Amelians,

today I had a wierd situation with my duo D 100.

After turning it off, it did the fresh water rinse like usual, but did not stop.

I checked for a leak (in the entire boat) but there is no leak and no open tap.

I closed the fresh water valve for the water maker, the rinsing stops.

I opened the valve, then the fresh water pump starts again (with rinsing).

During the process of making water there is no problem, the fresh water pump is not running.

Thus now I have to close the valve every time after using the water maker.

That is possible, but not like it should be.

 

Btw: If I open the fresh water valve for the water maker again (at least) 1 hour later, the pressure is (mostly) stable, no pump is running.

What could be the reason/ problem?
The solenoid (parallel to the filter)?

Thx a lot for your help.

Stefan
LADY CHARLYETTE, AMEL 54 N119, currently 40 miles to Aruba

Il giorno 11 lug 2020, alle ore 03:27, Craig & Katherine Briggs SN 68 Sangaris Tropic Isle Harbor, FL via groups.io <sangaris@...> ha scritto:

Ian,
On our SN (#68) the bow thruster and Foc furler are hard wired with no fuse or circuit breaker (diruptor). Real men don't need them ;-)
The 100amp fuse (mine is Blue Seas pop-up breaker style) is for the anchor windlass.

The main 12v power only kills power to the relay switches at the helm (same as turning off the "joy stick" breaker on the main DC panel). So when you say turning that off still left the BT and furler live, you were probing at the BT solenoid line terminals (not load), right, and the solenoids were actually inoperable from the helm switches. That seems safe enough, that is, you couldn't accidentally operate them from the helm. 

If you want to actually kill the power to the bow thruster and furler, just turn off your main battery switch - remote twist handle in the port cockpit lazarette locker, next to the helm.  If you have a fuse in the main battery feed, that's your safety for a dead short at the furler/bow thruster. If not you'll have one heck of a cabin heater. 

Cheers, Craig 

On Jul 12, 2020, at 10:31 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:



Porter, 

According to Frigoboat, the pump selected should move at least 6 liters/min. A 24-volt pump rated at 12 liters/min. running half speed on 12 volts will pump about 6 liters/min.

I am not the electrical expert that Dean Gillis is, but I will try to answer your question. In this schematic, the relay has a 12-volt coil that activates an internal switch. The switch could switch either 12 volts or 24 volts. In the schematic, you will note that only the positive is switched. Dean, feel free to edit or correct.

That relay in the schematic is a very ordinary "Bosch style" normally open 4 pin relay which uses 2 pins (85 & 86) to activate the coil, meaning when 12 volt positive is connected to 85 and 12 volt negative is connected to 86, a switch is closed between 2 pins (30 & 87). There are 2 types of 4 pin relay available; normally open or normally closed. A normally open relay will switch power ON for a circuit when the coil is activated. A normally closed relay will switch power OFF for a circuit when the coil is activated. You want a normally open relay for this project. To further confuse, there are 5 pin relays which allow either normally open or normally closed depending on whether you use 87 (normally open) or the fifth pin 87a (normally closed).

This is a package of 6 4-pin relays with sockets and wire: https://www.amazon.com/PACK-Pin-SPST-Relay-Harness/dp/B07X1R18QS/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=Relay+4+Pin&qid=1594563018&s=automotive&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExVzkxWjQ5OTBBMjcyJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjYyMDMxMlA0MU85WDRTVURSNCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNjEwNTc4OUdOQVJGUVQzVDdPJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

<image.png>

	CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School +1 832-380-4970 | brouse@... Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550  Website: www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com

View My Training Calendar

On Thu, Jul 9, 2020 at 4:27 PM Porter McRoberts via groups.io <portermcroberts=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Bill in your schematic,

The relays are 12VDC control and 24VDC load circuit, easy to put a 2-3 amp fuse on the load circuit.

I've searched for this relay and find it quite difficult to find the definitive solution.  Commonly the reverse is found.

I’d like to build a control board for the pumps.

Might you have a source, or nomenclature that would reveal this hidden gem on the web for me?

A second question:  running a 24v pump at 12v, surely spares the pump, but will it affect the pump volume, as the 1.5+ GPH is quite important, yes?

Always appreciated,

Porter

S/V IBIS A54-152

On Jul 3, 2020, at 3:30 PM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Jamie,

I wish I was on your 54 with you because I have a burning question about all of this. and I have a recommendation for you.

My burning question:

If you see the schematic in my previous post in this thread, you will notice the schematic from a Frigoboat manual. The source of the voltage output from the E51385 blue box to the water pump originates in this schematic with each of the Danfoss Compressor Controllers at the F terminal. In fact, the two wires for each fridge unit come directly from the Danfoss to the E51385. The Frigoboat manual clearly states, regardless of the voltage of the fridge the output on the two F terminals is 12 volts. BTW, the Danfoss operates on 12 or 24 volts, but always outputs 12 volts to Terminal F. Have you checked the output voltage on each of the Danfoss on terminal F and the terminal next to it? I do not see any other way that the E51385 blue box can output 24 volts and if there is 24 volts on the Danfoss fan terminals, I suspect something is wrong with the Danfoss.

My recommendation:

Why don't you do this eliminating the E51385 and eliminate the limitation on amps on the Danfoss terminal F, and run a 24-volt pump??:

<Relays to control water pump.jpg>

	CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School +1 832-380-4970 | brouse@... Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550  Website: www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com

View My Training Calendar

On Fri, Jul 3, 2020 at 2:02 PM Jamie Wendell <mysticshadow54@...> wrote:

OK, my "final" update on the Flojet pump and Frigoboat E51385  interface. I cannot explain it, but the interface is definitely out-putting 24 volts to the pump at all times.
Maybe my interface is malfunctioning, so I installed a solid-state relay and a DC converter to step the voltage down to 12 volts. I used a 24-volt relay in place of the E51385 pump connection and then feed the converter and pump via the live 24-volt terminal box in the engine room. The relay simply engages the pump when the compressors call for it.

A bit more complicated than I would like but the pump runs perfectly now and obviously I no longer get the pump overload signals at the interface. The higher capacity pump may draw more power, but it really cools down the 3 refrigerator units fast.

My next task is to get the brushless motor working to replace the Flojet motor. I will drive it directly via the 24-volt terminal block and eliminate the DC converter.

Until then I am "over and out" regarding this perplexing issue with the E51385. I really appreciate all the suggestions and assistance, but will report once I have the brushless motor controller operational. That will be the gold standard.

Jamie
Phantom, A54 #44

On 13 July 2020 at 02:32 CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Kent,

I purposefully said, " Later model SM2ks had the following (photo from the Users Manual)"

I have no idea when the cut-off valve was added by Amel, but I have seen some SMs that did not have one.

Bill

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School   +1 832-380-4970 | brouse@... Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550  Website: www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com

View My Training Calendar

On Sun, Jul 12, 2020 at 9:13 AM karkauai via groups.io <karkauai= yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Along the same lines, I had a sink faucet fail last year, and had no way to shut water off to one faucet.  On my list is to put a shutoff valve on every faucet.  I didn't know there was a shutoff valve for the washer.  Gotta find that.

Kent

Sm243

Kristy

On Jul 11, 2020 1:23 PM, Willem Kroes < kavanga@...> wrote:

Thank you Bill,

I found the valve behind the cleaning stuff. I did not expect it on this side,but must admid that I failed to consult the manual.

Anyway, the problem is solved (also with the water intake valve at the washing machine side).

I am very happyt to be on my boat again after so many months of lock down. The Greek authorities made a great leap foreward with their digital system. There are also some very reliable Greek websites for updates on the Covid-19-situation in Greece, like this one:
https://www.atoz-guides.com/coronavirus-in-greece-update/

Thanks again and stay healthy!

Willem Kroes

SM#351 KAVANGA

now at anchor near Menidion Greece