Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Watertank cleaning on SM

James Alton
 

JPG,

   A very simple solution!  (grin)  

   Michel btw warned me against using a pressure washer of any sort since it can lift the tank coating causing flaking and problems down the road.  

James

On Aug 12, 2016, at 5:56 AM, Jean-Pierre Germain jgermain@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Hi Paul,

Remove the tank cover and using your wet/dry vacuum cleaner, suck out the tank bottom. 

Takes 5 mins

Jean-Pierre
Eleuthera SM007



On 12 Aug 2016, at 09:24, p.aebersold@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hello everyone

Has somebody a good Solution to clean the watertank on a super Maramu

I cannot find any remark in this Forum on this Subjekt


Thanks Paul  sm328





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water in engine

James Alton
 

Tom,

    Sorry to hear about your flooded engine, that must have been quite a shock.  I have recovered a number of diesels that had been flooded with salt water and so long as the recovery is done within a reasonable time there should be no damage.  You won’t break a piston pulling on a short wrench on the crankshaft but you are doing the right thing in clearing the water by not using the starter.  You basically want to clear the water, run the engine, change the fluids as needed if any are milky.  Your oil may look ok now but there may be some water at the bottom of the pan that will mix in after you run the engine.   Just remove all evidence of the water through fluid changes and you should be fine.  I would shut off the sea water intake just before shutting down the engine until you can determine the cause of the flooding.  You can likely use the engine in this manner without flooding until you can correct the problem if you are in a jam and need to run it.  The engine will not flood so long as it is running.  I would come up with some way to remind yourself that the raw water is off so that you don’t forget and run the engine with the valve closed.

   Whatever has changed will likely flood the engine again.  I would take the injection elbow off of the engine and check to see if it has corroded through somewhere,  pin holes are not uncommon.  The vented loop may have become blocked and is allowing the sea water to siphon back into the engine.  Check to be sure that it is operating properly.  Let me know what you find.

Best of luck,

James

SV Sueno,  Maramu #220


On Aug 12, 2016, at 6:46 AM, onboardaphrodite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Hi group this is Tom amel 46 Maramu no. 125 1983

I have had Aphrodite for 16 years and never had this happen

I used the starter button, one clik and would not turn engine over!

I could not turn drive shaft with pipe wrench!

Opened air cleaner and FULL of water! Took off exhaust hose lots of water

Was able to turn over with wrench with some water coming out

Took off first and last injectors water came out of each cylinder

I think I have most water out?

ShouldI take other injectors off or will water go out ext. valves as I turn over?

Should I put some oil in cylinders before putting injectors back on?

 After bleading fuel I will try and start, run for a few and change oil 

There is no water in oil at this point, only in air intake and cyclinders .

I think this will get me going . I am at a small island in Indonesia!

I have been in 30ft seas and 60kts winds and never had this happen.

We had 15to25 down wind 4ft seas the last two days I motored for 4hrs.but ! Only at 1500RPMS I usually

Run2000 Any ideas on putting back together and not happening agin Perkins 4-154 Thanks Tom





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water in engine

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

You most likely sucked water into the exhaust system.  The anti siphon has failed. 

Take out all the injectors do not try to turn the engine over until you do or you could bend the crank, break a piston. 
Drain the milky oil. Change the oil filter  Pour in a gallon of diesel fuel with the injectors our slowly turn the engine. Drain the pan. 
Do it again. 
Then put in the motor oil and new filter. Turn the engine again without starting. Drain if it's still milky do it all again. 
If it's clear. 
Put the injectors back in and start it. Run for a short time. Drain the oil change the filter. 
Check out the exhaust system and muffler. We have seen old boat where the exhaust hose falls apart on the inside blocking the water the can also cause a problem.  Check the muffler too if it is the original it may also be a problem. 
Good luck. 
Fair Winds Smooth Sailing 
Capt Richard Piller
Newport RI 
Cell 603 767 5330

On Aug 12, 2016, at 05:46, onboardaphrodite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi group this is Tom amel 46 Maramu no. 125 1983

I have had Aphrodite for 16 years and never had this happen

I used the starter button, one clik and would not turn engine over!

I could not turn drive shaft with pipe wrench!

Opened air cleaner and FULL of water! Took off exhaust hose lots of water

Was able to turn over with wrench with some water coming out

Took off first and last injectors water came out of each cylinder

I think I have most water out?

ShouldI take other injectors off or will water go out ext. valves as I turn over?

Should I put some oil in cylinders before putting injectors back on?

 After bleading fuel I will try and start, run for a few and change oil 

There is no water in oil at this point, only in air intake and cyclinders.

I think this will get me going . I am at a small island in Indonesia!

I have been in 30ft seas and 60kts winds and never had this happen.

We had 15to25 down wind 4ft seas the last two days I motored for 4hrs.but ! Only at 1500RPMS I usually

Run2000 Any ideas on putting back together and not happening agin Perkins 4-154 Thanks Tom



Water in engine

amel46met
 

Hi group this is Tom amel 46 Maramu no. 125 1983

I have had Aphrodite for 16 years and never had this happen

I used the starter button, one clik and would not turn engine over!

I could not turn drive shaft with pipe wrench!

Opened air cleaner and FULL of water! Took off exhaust hose lots of water

Was able to turn over with wrench with some water coming out

Took off first and last injectors water came out of each cylinder

I think I have most water out?

ShouldI take other injectors off or will water go out ext. valves as I turn over?

Should I put some oil in cylinders before putting injectors back on?

 After bleading fuel I will try and start, run for a few and change oil 

There is no water in oil at this point, only in air intake and cyclinders.

I think this will get me going . I am at a small island in Indonesia!

I have been in 30ft seas and 60kts winds and never had this happen.

We had 15to25 down wind 4ft seas the last two days I motored for 4hrs.but ! Only at 1500RPMS I usually

Run2000 Any ideas on putting back together and not happening agin Perkins 4-154 Thanks Tom



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Upgrading all electronics

Andrew & Kate Lamb
 

Whenever we haul the boat I check for continuity between the propeller and each of the zincs on the rudder. Unless I am mistaken though this does not check the keel strap and there is no easy way of doing an end to end check for the keel being connected to the bonding system except perhaps testing between one of the other keel bolts and a common bonding point.

 

Andrew

 

Ronpische

SM 472

Canet–en-Roussillon

 

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: 12 August 2016 10:45
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Upgrading all electronics

 

 

James,  yes, the connection is to protect the iron keel and the keel bolts from electrolytic corrosion. If the connection is broken / corroded with the years the keel transforms to swiss cheese (the one with the tiny holes :-) ) and requires a lot of sandblasting before recoating (I did learn the importance of a working amel bonding system the hard way, as with some other amel specific items on the boat, checking the resistance between battery and bonding is one of my routine tasks)...

herbert, KALI MERA, SN120, trinidad


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Watertank cleaning on SM

Jean-Pierre Germain <jgermain@...>
 

Hi Paul,

Remove the tank cover and using your wet/dry vacuum cleaner, suck out the tank bottom. 

Takes 5 mins

Jean-Pierre
Eleuthera SM007



On 12 Aug 2016, at 09:24, p.aebersold@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hello everyone

Has somebody a good Solution to clean the watertank on a super Maramu

I cannot find any remark in this Forum on this Subjekt


Thanks Paul  sm328


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Upgrading all electronics

Herbert Lackner
 

James,  yes, the connection is to protect the iron keel and the keel bolts from electrolytic corrosion. If the connection is broken / corroded with the years the keel transforms to swiss cheese (the one with the tiny holes :-) ) and requires a lot of sandblasting before recoating (I did learn the importance of a working amel bonding system the hard way, as with some other amel specific items on the boat, checking the resistance between battery and bonding is one of my routine tasks)...

herbert, KALI MERA, SN120, trinidad


Watertank cleaning on SM

p.aebersold
 

Hello everyone

Has somebody a good Solution to clean the watertank on a super Maramu

I cannot find any remark in this Forum on this Subjekt


Thanks Paul  sm328


Re: Super Maramu rigging loads

Ian Park
 

Further to my previous reply, I have copied Oliviers instructions.

Ian

Ocean Hobo


I will start with "How did AMEL install the masts and tune the rigging on Santorins, SMs and 54s?" It has now changed as the masts of the 64 and 55 are rigged with discontinuous side shrouds, and the tension is finally set thanks to an hydraulic mast jack tool system and wedges.

The mast steps are bolted through the deck in metal inserts glassed in.
They are installed horizontally, this means parallel to the saloon floor, or perpendicular to the main bulkhead (underneath).
"How did AMEL install the masts?":
First of all, the spreaders are attached to the top shrouds as follows:
-bring the shroud along the mast and mark it (with a permanent marker) at the bottom side of the spreader's hex nut. Mark both shrouds the same way at both speaders. At spreader's end, put the eye bolt at the mark.
The intermediate shrouds will be secured at spreader's ends only once the rigging is tuned.

As the main mast is hanging from the top (thanks to a crane), it is set on the mast step, centered thanks to both "hubs". The first shrouds to be secured are the 4 lower shrouds, which is enough to hold the mast in place. The crane is going away.
Then the forestay with genoa furler is installed on its chain-plate, then both top shrouds, then the backstay.
Once the forestay, backstay and top shrouds' turnbuckles are gently tightened by hand, the lower shrouds should be eased a bit, in order not to interfere with the operation of "setting the mast foot flat on its mast step":
-Concerning the top shrouds, this is made by measuring the distance between the top of the lower swage, and the bottom of the clevis pin which secures the shroud into the chain-plate. This distance must be the same on both sides.
-Concerning the forestay and backstay, they are adjusted (by hand) in order there is no gap between the rubber sole and the aluminum mast step (front and aft). If you see no gap from the beginning, and you want to check if it is close to a gap, ease the backstay (two turns) and tighten the forestay (two turns). If you start seeing a gap aft, then ease the forestay again (one turn) and tighten the backstay again (one turn). If there is no gap: GOOD, if there is still a gap aft, then come back to the original position (one turn less on the forestay, one more turn on the backstay).
Now, you can say the mast is "vertical" (in fact, the Santorins, SMs and 54s are never horizontal, back to front, but always with the bow up, which means the mast is leaning slightly aft).
It is vertical but it should also be straight as no strong tension has been put on the shrouds.

Once the mast is vertical, you will start tensioning the shrouds by pairs, checking that the mast is straight after each tensioning, like, for instance:
-two turns on front lower shrouds, two turns on aft lower shrouds, check
-two turns on top shrouds, check
-three turns on forestay, three turns on backstay, check

And so on until the shrouds feel very stiff. In the end, you will tension the front lower shrouds a bit more than the aft ones, in order to initiate a slight curve aft (the middle of the mast being in front of the foot and top) and then only the intermediate shrouds, not too tight.
To confirm the rigging is tight enough, go out sailing, close hauling with 18/20 knots. The mast should keep straight sideways, and not bend forward, the leeward shrouds should not be loose. If the mast bends forward, then tighten the backstay and the front lower shrouds.

If the mast is not "vertical" from the beginning, it will bend front if you a gap at the front or aft if there is a gap at the aft.

Once the main mast and rigging are set, you can start with the mizzen mast:
-first line it up with the main mast, looking at both from the far aft of the vessel
-then tension the shrouds in order to make a slight curve aft

This is a first description. I probably forgot some details, so... feel free to ask.

Olivier


Re: Super Maramu rigging loads

Ian Park
 

Agree with Herbert re back stays. There was a great response by Olivier about rig tensioning. The foremast is tensioned tightly, including its back stay. The triatic stay is not really needed. The mizzenmast back stays should not be tight as this can lead to cracking on the 'weaker' transom mounting points. This is a result of transfer of shock in a pounding see from the forestay, through the triatic to over tightened mizzen back stays. The mizzen doesn't carry a great weight of sail and the stays are sufficient to take the loads.
I slackened off my mizzen back stays a little after reading the article.

Ian

Ocean Hobo SN 96


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] New Climma 9EH A/C Unit needed

Bill Kinney <greatketch@...>
 

We had one of our 20 year old Cruise Air units die, the other keeps chugging along.  We ended up replacing it with a 6K BTU Marinaire  unit for the aft cabin. http://www.marinaire.com.  Very fast delivery from Florida.  Good customer service at the time of sale.  Unit is well engineered, VERY quiet,  compact for an easy install and the price was attractive.

Will it last 20 years?  Ask me in 2026.


On Aug 11, 2016, at 22:43, kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:



Hi Alex,
Yes I have tried them  6-8 week delivery
 
 
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners]" 
Date: Thursday, August 11, 2016 5:33 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] New Climma 9EH A/C Unit needed
To: amelyachtowners@...

> Good afternoon Eric, 
> 
> Have you contacted https://www.coastalclimatecontrol.com
> 
> Sincerely, Alexandre
> SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
> Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------
> On Thu, 8/11/16, kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] 
> wrote:
> 
> Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] New Climma 9EH A/C Unit needed
> To: amelyachtowners@...
> Date: Thursday, August 11, 2016, 4:08 PM
> 
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My 9 Eh Climma unit
> finally bought the bullet.
> The delivery time from Italy is extensive and I was
> wondering what options other Amel owners have used.
> Fair Winds,
> Eric
> SM 376 Kimberlite
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] New Climma 9EH A/C Unit needed

eric freedman
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] New Climma 9EH A/C Unit needed

karkauai
 

 I just got a whole new unit from Costal Climate Control in Bowie, MD.  They delivered it to Curaçao in 1wk.  If yours is an old one, you'll need a different controller, and they recommended a new evaporator.
Kent
SM 243
Kristy


On Aug 11, 2016, at 5:08 PM, kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 


My 9 Eh Climma unit finally bought the bullet.
The delivery time from Italy is extensive and I was wondering what options other Amel owners have used.
Fair Winds,
Eric
SM 376 Kimberlite


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Upgrading all electronics

James Alton
 

Herbert,

A big thanks to Bill Rouse for the excellent photos and details of how he changed his copper strap for the bonding system.   I suspect that the keel bolt grounding connection on Sueno will need to be renewed as well though as you point out the design might be a little different.  Am I correct that this connection is needed so that the iron keel is protected along with the other keel bolts?  

Best,
James

On Aug 11, 2016, at 4:02 PM, herbert@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

james, I am not familiar with the Maramu, but the SN and the SM have the bonding connection to the keel with a copper stripe that goes to a keel bolt in the bilge. there is an excellent documentation how to exchange that by our Bill Rouse that helped many of us to replace the corroded stripe. 

look at this...

https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/amelyachtowners/photos/albums/138287824

 

fair winds,


herbert, SN120, Trinidad




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] New Climma 9EH A/C Unit needed

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Eric,

Agreed, I think that Climma is still the best, and Coastal Climate Control is the place to contact. 

I do not think they have a 9,000btu, but probably have a 10,000btu Compact that will fit perfectly...send them an email at info"at"coastalclimatecontrol.com

Bill
BeBe #387 

On Thu, Aug 11, 2016 at 4:33 PM, Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Good afternoon Eric,

Have you contacted https://www.coastalclimatecontrol.com

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico

--------------------------------------------
On Thu, 8/11/16, kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] New Climma 9EH A/C Unit needed
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, August 11, 2016, 4:08 PM


 










My 9 Eh Climma unit
finally bought the bullet.
The delivery time from Italy is extensive and I was
wondering what options other Amel owners have used.
Fair Winds,
Eric
SM 376 Kimberlite










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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] New Climma 9EH A/C Unit needed

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Good afternoon Eric,

Have you contacted https://www.coastalclimatecontrol.com

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico





--------------------------------------------

On Thu, 8/11/16, kimberlite@optonline.net [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] New Climma 9EH A/C Unit needed
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, August 11, 2016, 4:08 PM


 










My 9 Eh Climma unit
finally bought the bullet.
The delivery time from Italy is extensive and I was
wondering what options other Amel owners have used.
Fair Winds,
Eric
SM 376 Kimberlite










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New Climma 9EH A/C Unit needed

eric freedman
 


Re: Insurance

seagasm@...
 

May I suggest you get a rigging survey. We did that as requested by our insurer and is good for another 7-10 years, our rigging was completely replaced in 2008.

Best Regards
Barry & Robyn
Tradewinds III SM 171


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Insurance

Ann-Sofie Svanberg <kanalmamman@...>
 

Ask for Bosse and tell him that we recommended them. Pantaenius in Sweden is way cheaper than the other European Pantaenius companies. 

/Ann-Sofie
Lady Annila SM 232.

Skickat från min iPad

11 aug. 2016 kl. 21:41 skrev Ann-Sofie Svanberg kanalmamman@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

Pantaenius in Sweden. 

/Ann-Sofie S/Y Lady Annila SM 232

Skickat från min iPad

11 aug. 2016 kl. 11:42 skrev osterberg.paul.l@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

Hello!

just found out that our insurance company would not insure our boat for sailing out of Europe as the standing rig is older than 10 years old. I have no time to change now. Has anyone of you any suggestion on good insurance companies for a European boat sailing outside Europe?

Paul on S/Y Kerpa SM#259


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Insurance

Ann-Sofie Svanberg <kanalmamman@...>
 

Pantaenius in Sweden. 

/Ann-Sofie S/Y Lady Annila SM 232

Skickat från min iPad

11 aug. 2016 kl. 11:42 skrev osterberg.paul.l@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

Hello!

just found out that our insurance company would not insure our boat for sailing out of Europe as the standing rig is older than 10 years old. I have no time to change now. Has anyone of you any suggestion on good insurance companies for a European boat sailing outside Europe?

Paul on S/Y Kerpa SM#259