Date   
Re: Gearbox for outhaulAmel

Joerg Esdorn
 

Thanks very much, Bill.  At the suggestion of another owner, I checked the tension of the outhaul line and found it to be iron tight.  Apparently the lines shrink a bit over the years.  This puts a lot of load on the bearings of course.  I now have it loosened so it hangs a bit down without touching the boom.  That reduced the amps to about 20-50.   Still above the 15-20 measured for the furling motor but less than before.   I will wait to take the gear box apart until I reach Vigo where the boat will remain for the winter.   

Joerg Esdorn 
A55 Kincsem 
currently in Cascais 

Re: Rudder seal

Paul Brown
 

Hi Bill

Do you recommend using both products together, Corroseal and CorrosionX or just either?

Corroseal is detailed as a primer, so perhaps I would use this following the application of CorrosionX?

I’m in Sicily Italy and will look for the products of not I’ll order from the US when I’m back in Australia in two weeks 

Thanks again 

Regards Paul 


On 1 Oct 2019, at 9:20 pm, Paul Brown <feeder.brown@...> wrote:

Hi bill,

No there is no water alarm in the compartment and the hoses and fittings I don’t think were soaked just splashed. There is no real corrosion as I have been maintaining the fittings by a steel brushing as required and keeping them clean lubricated and greased. 

I hadn’t thought of a water alarm but will now look into an installation

Thank you for the tip with corrosionX and Carroseal, I haven’t used the products before but will certainly try them now.

Again, it’s great to have your assistance with these matters, thank you so much 

Regards Paul - Fortuna II 55/17



On 1 Oct 2019, at 8:50 pm, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Paul,

An interesting comment: Mark McGovern states 1/6 turn is usually adequate for a SM. I have seen this true on all SMs and 54s. But what is interesting is that your 55 is now the 3rd 55 that required 1/2 turn to seal. I am not really sure why the difference. BTW, in all Amels, there is a mechanical lock device on the nut which has to be removed to tighten. All of the 55s I have seen came with an Amel-made wrench for this purpose.

Does your 55 have an Amel-installed water Alarm in the steering compartment? Does it work? Did the hydraulic hose fittings get soaked with saltwater? Is there corrosion on the fittings, solenoid valves and pump(s)/ If so, I found that all can be reasonable cleaned with CorrosionX and a stainless steel brush. You may also want to use Corroseal.

Bill
--
CW Bill Rouse Amel Yacht Owners School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   


On Tue, Oct 1, 2019 at 11:47 AM Paul Brown <feeder.brown@...> wrote:
Hi Mark, thank you very much and roger that, I have now tightened it as your information but about a 1/2 turn as it was leaking a lot.

So if I do need to replace the packing material I’m guessing you remove the nut to do this and this is ok while the boat is in the water?

Kind Regards Paul 


On 1 Oct 2019, at 6:22 pm, Mark McGovern <mfmcgovern@...> wrote:

Paul,

In the Super Maramu there is a large nut at the top of the post.  You tighten it by turning it clockwise looking at it from above.  The general recommendation is to turn it 1/6 of a turn at a time and then wait and check for leaks.  Continue this process until the leak stops.  If it does not ever stop you will need to replace the packing material. 

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA

Re: SM main furler motor

Dan Taylor
 

All,
An update below…
R/
Dan

I purchased the VF44 Gear Box and two sets of seals/bearing from Mitch at DriveTech Automation.  He was very helpful.  Attached is the parts list for the gear box and the sizes of the seals and bearings.  It took 1 week for deliver. I can send you the invoice if anyone desires.

Bonfiglioli VF44 P1 60 P63B14 B3

INPUT SEAL   25 X 37 X 7
OUTPUT SEAL  30 X 40 X 7
INPUT BEARING: 6301
INPUT BEARING: 61805
OUTPUR BEARING: 6006 


MITCH SILVERMAN
DRIVETECH AUTOMATION, INC.
5401 NW 102ND AVE.  #146
SUNRISE, FL. 33351
TEL: 954-746-9800
FAX: 954-746-5509

On Sep 16, 2019, at 4:03 AM, Ian Townsend <smlocalola@...> wrote:

VF44 P1 60 P63B14 B3

SPEED REDUCER, 60;1 RATIO, 63 FRAME, B14 FLANGE , CODE: 200480249 


Ian & Margaret
S/V Loca Lola II 
SM153
US East Coast

On Sep 16, 2019, at 12:08 AM, Ian Townsend via Groups.Io <smlocalola@...> wrote:

I just took delivery for our Bonfiglioli unit. Lead time was several weeks. 

MITCH SILVERMAN
DRIVETECH AUTOMATION, INC.
5401 NW 102ND AVE.  #146
SUNRISE, FL. 33351
TEL: 954-746-9800
FAX: 954-746-5509
WEBSITE: WWW.DRIVETECHONLINE.COM


Ian & Margaret
S/V Loca Lola II 
SM153
US East Coast

On Sep 15, 2019, at 3:37 PM, Dan Taylor <svflygirl@...> wrote:

Mark,
Can you provide the model number and company you purchased it from for the Bonfiglioli MVF44. 

Also, what does the gear ratio for the main furler and outhaul furler need to be?  There are many on line that have gear rations from 20:1 to 55:1...not sure what I have on both.

Thanks,
Dan
SM 116
FlyGirl
San Diego, CA

Re: A54 fridge circulation pump

Sv Garulfo
 

Hi Oliver

We would be interested in the details of the brushless motor and motor controller as it has been the same in our case ( pump still working, only brushes wear out). 

Thanks for your help. 

Soraya
Garulfo A54#122
Tuamotus, French Polynesia 


On 23 Sep 2019, at 22:16, Oliver Henrichsen, SV Vela Nautica <oliver.henrichsen@...> wrote:

Hello,

We got 1 fridge and freezer in our boat, we gave the freezer in the pantry a complete refit.

1. Step is to refit AMEL freezer insulations. We removed the complete old imsulation. Sorry to say but it was poorly build in terms of condens water block, open sidecuts at the old foam boards so the foam was soaked with condens. Beside tha this foam is only max 60mm what is not enough for tropics. Because of limited space we choose most efficient isolation boards.
It needs to remove the complete freezer. The only way to do so was to enter from the top and chop the wooden boards, also soaked with water and mould. Wood is not a propper insulation for freezers.
2. Step ist to install a condenswater block membrane.
3. Step install install sandwich vacum boards. These boards got factor 5 of insulation against standard closed cell foam. So with 6cm it eaquals 20 to 24 cm foam.
4. We reused the original stainless inside case. The hole process needs extremly carefull work that there is not the tinies hole left for condens water to enter. What you get is insulated like a thermos bottle.

With this upgrade of freezer the compressor stops 24h working and with that the cooling pump. But we did not touch the fridge. With that we got on times of freezer of 2h per day and fridge of 3h per day. The new controller cares that both units will work at the same time when ever possible. Example: so the cool pump wont run first for the fridge and 5 mins later when the freezer starts it will rum again. The "intelligent"
Controler cares that operating times are bundled.
We got these operating times with 30 degrees outside temperatures.

I did not change the pump, I changed the pump motor and motor controller to brushless. My pumps never failed it was always the brushed motor and bearings that wore out.

With these steps the cooling system works efficient.

I will look for the brands i used later and post it.

Oliver
A54#39
Portugal



Sent from my Huawei Mobile


-------- Original Message --------
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] A54 fridge circulation pump
From: Scott SV Tengah
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
CC:


Oliver,

Could you tell us more about upgrading/replacing the freezer insulation? I assume you mean the one under the settee? 

Did you scrape off all the old insulation and replace? What model vacuum boards did you use? I, too, notice that my freezer compressor is running 24h.

--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

Re: Rudder seal

Paul Brown
 

Hi bill,

No there is no water alarm in the compartment and the hoses and fittings I don’t think were soaked just splashed. There is no real corrosion as I have been maintaining the fittings by a steel brushing as required and keeping them clean lubricated and greased. 

I hadn’t thought of a water alarm but will now look into an installation

Thank you for the tip with corrosionX and Carroseal, I haven’t used the products before but will certainly try them now.

Again, it’s great to have your assistance with these matters, thank you so much 

Regards Paul - Fortuna II 55/17



On 1 Oct 2019, at 8:50 pm, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Paul,

An interesting comment: Mark McGovern states 1/6 turn is usually adequate for a SM. I have seen this true on all SMs and 54s. But what is interesting is that your 55 is now the 3rd 55 that required 1/2 turn to seal. I am not really sure why the difference. BTW, in all Amels, there is a mechanical lock device on the nut which has to be removed to tighten. All of the 55s I have seen came with an Amel-made wrench for this purpose.

Does your 55 have an Amel-installed water Alarm in the steering compartment? Does it work? Did the hydraulic hose fittings get soaked with saltwater? Is there corrosion on the fittings, solenoid valves and pump(s)/ If so, I found that all can be reasonable cleaned with CorrosionX and a stainless steel brush. You may also want to use Corroseal.

Bill
--
CW Bill Rouse Amel Yacht Owners School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   


On Tue, Oct 1, 2019 at 11:47 AM Paul Brown <feeder.brown@...> wrote:
Hi Mark, thank you very much and roger that, I have now tightened it as your information but about a 1/2 turn as it was leaking a lot.

So if I do need to replace the packing material I’m guessing you remove the nut to do this and this is ok while the boat is in the water?

Kind Regards Paul 


On 1 Oct 2019, at 6:22 pm, Mark McGovern <mfmcgovern@...> wrote:

Paul,

In the Super Maramu there is a large nut at the top of the post.  You tighten it by turning it clockwise looking at it from above.  The general recommendation is to turn it 1/6 of a turn at a time and then wait and check for leaks.  Continue this process until the leak stops.  If it does not ever stop you will need to replace the packing material. 

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA

Re: Fresh water pump connector

 

"white thing"
Sorry😁

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Amel Yacht Owners School - www.AmelYachtOwnersSchool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970


On Tue, Oct 1, 2019, 2:13 PM CW Bill Rouse via Groups.Io <brouse=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:
Alex, 

Amel used PEX Plumbing on 54s. PEX is used in Europe and the US. I am not sure if the sizes are the same, but I think so. You can buy PEX in the US anywhere plumbing is sold. That white this was added by someone. Maybe the gray PEX tube was glued or epoxied inside. Let me know what you find. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Amel Yacht Owners School - www.AmelYachtOwnersSchool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

Re: Fresh water pump connector

 

Alex, 

Amel used PEX Plumbing on 54s. PEX is used in Europe and the US. I am not sure if the sizes are the same, but I think so. You can buy PEX in the US anywhere plumbing is sold. That white this was added by someone. Maybe the gray PEX tube was glued or epoxied inside. Let me know what you find. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Amel Yacht Owners School - www.AmelYachtOwnersSchool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

Re: Fresh water pump connector

Alexander Ramseyer
 

Hi Bill,
Is AMEL using NPT or British Standard Pipe threads?
Anything I would be able to find here in the U.S.?
Thanks, Alex

Re: Rudder seal

 

Paul,

An interesting comment: Mark McGovern states 1/6 turn is usually adequate for a SM. I have seen this true on all SMs and 54s. But what is interesting is that your 55 is now the 3rd 55 that required 1/2 turn to seal. I am not really sure why the difference. BTW, in all Amels, there is a mechanical lock device on the nut which has to be removed to tighten. All of the 55s I have seen came with an Amel-made wrench for this purpose.

Does your 55 have an Amel-installed water Alarm in the steering compartment? Does it work? Did the hydraulic hose fittings get soaked with saltwater? Is there corrosion on the fittings, solenoid valves and pump(s)/ If so, I found that all can be reasonable cleaned with CorrosionX and a stainless steel brush. You may also want to use Corroseal.

Bill
--
CW Bill Rouse Amel Yacht Owners School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   


On Tue, Oct 1, 2019 at 11:47 AM Paul Brown <feeder.brown@...> wrote:
Hi Mark, thank you very much and roger that, I have now tightened it as your information but about a 1/2 turn as it was leaking a lot.

So if I do need to replace the packing material I’m guessing you remove the nut to do this and this is ok while the boat is in the water?

Kind Regards Paul 


On 1 Oct 2019, at 6:22 pm, Mark McGovern <mfmcgovern@...> wrote:

Paul,

In the Super Maramu there is a large nut at the top of the post.  You tighten it by turning it clockwise looking at it from above.  The general recommendation is to turn it 1/6 of a turn at a time and then wait and check for leaks.  Continue this process until the leak stops.  If it does not ever stop you will need to replace the packing material. 

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA

Re: Antifouling for the Mediterranean

 

Tony,

He deserves praise. In our experience and around the world, Alex and his uncle were the best. 
Bill
--
CW Bill Rouse Amel Yacht Owners School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   


On Tue, Oct 1, 2019 at 4:10 AM tony wells via Groups.Io <tony.wells=me.com@groups.io> wrote:
Bill -  I met with Alex this morning - he was flattered by your praise and sends his regards to you and Judy! And also to Guillaume & Cathy and Mohammad & Aty. 

Tony
A54 #102 Balthazar, Manoel Island, Malta 



On 30 Sep 2019, at 18:21, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Yes, if 20 liters is applied perfectly, it will be very close to 3 complete coats. This happened only one time for me when Manoel Island Boat Yard in Malta and their BEST painter, Alex & his uncle, painted antifouling on BeBe.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Amel Yacht Owners School - www.AmelYachtOwnersSchool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Mon, Sep 30, 2019, 10:07 AM Roque <ediroque@...> wrote:

I second Bill R.

 

Just did the anti-fouling on my A54 and 20 L is a good estimate. You probably can get by with 2 liters less.

 

I used much more because I decided to apply 3 coats 

 

Roque

Attika A54 # 117

Paraty


Em seg, 30 de set de 2019 às 11:31, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> escreveu:
I recommend the Micron series, if available. 

GelSeal is not required on an Amel made after about 1985. In the mid 80s Amel began using a proprietary anti-osmosis layer between the gelcoat and the fiberglass. 

A high quality antifouling paint, proper preparation and application of at least 2 coats with a 3rd at the waterline, leading edges, and rudder will consume most of 20 liters. 

International makes antifouling in 20 liter pales, and 20 liters will allow the above number of unthinned coats for a SM, 54, or 55. This method should give you a very high chance of renewing the antifouling every 2 years. Of course, antifouling life depends on quality of product, preparation, application, number of miles and location. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Amel Yacht Owners School - www.AmelYachtOwnersSchool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Mon, Sep 30, 2019, 9:13 AM Paul Brown <feeder.brown@...> wrote:
How many litres per coat is required for a 54? I expect a 55 is not much or if any a larger surface area and I generally use 12 litres for 2 coats but maybe this is not correct?

Regards Paul Fortuna II 55/17


On 30 Sep 2019, at 1:14 pm, David Crisp <david@...> wrote:

Many thanks to you all for the rapid response, advice and a clear consensus.   I'll go with 2 coats of the 350.

Great to back aboard an Amel again.  About 15 years ago I bought a SM near Nice and took her to Caribbean and back to the UK during a 3 year sabbatical.  This time I've just retired....  So far, after a month, very pleased with the 54, she has many of the improvements I imagined in my mind whilst living aboard the SM.  

Fair winds and following seas to all.
David
SY Wilna Grace

Re: Rudder seal

Paul Brown
 

Thank you Olivier

I will follow your instruction and complete next haul out, it was only leaking some when under way, the plastic nut is almost all the way down so I guess it’s due

Kind regards Paul - Fortuna II 55/17


On 1 Oct 2019, at 7:03 pm, Beaute Olivier via Groups.Io <atlanticyachtsurvey@...> wrote:

Hello Paul,

no it's not OK to replace the packing material while the boat is afloat. You would then have a strong water ingress while you're working for installing the new stuff.
Do it while you do a new anti-fouling, unless you can't wait because you see alot of water coming in and the nylon nut is already all the way in. Then no other option than hauling-out.

Good luck.

Olivier

On Tuesday, October 1, 2019, 06:47:50 PM GMT+2, Paul Brown <feeder.brown@...> wrote:


Hi Mark, thank you very much and roger that, I have now tightened it as your information but about a 1/2 turn as it was leaking a lot.

So if I do need to replace the packing material I’m guessing you remove the nut to do this and this is ok while the boat is in the water?

Kind Regards Paul 


On 1 Oct 2019, at 6:22 pm, Mark McGovern <mfmcgovern@...> wrote:

Paul,

In the Super Maramu there is a large nut at the top of the post.  You tighten it by turning it clockwise looking at it from above.  The general recommendation is to turn it 1/6 of a turn at a time and then wait and check for leaks.  Continue this process until the leak stops.  If it does not ever stop you will need to replace the packing material. 

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA

Re: Cabin sole revarnish

James Alton
 

Miles,

   We have had good luck with the Min Wax Polyurathene on cabin soles and other high wear parts of yacht interiors.  The product is single part, low smell, wears well for a single part and is easy to sand and recoat when the time comes.  It does not have the best UV fesistance so I only use this product for down below projects.  A word of warning about strippers. We had to completely remove all of the gelcoat from the hull on a  customers 45' Ketch that was softened by a "gel coat safe" citrus based paint stripper that was left on the hull for an extended period of time.   So if you use a stripper I would  be careful to protect and rinse the gelcoat really well regardless of how safe the product is supposed to be.  Personally, I think protecting the gelcoat from heat and using a heat gun or a sharp scrapper as a a mechanical method such as dry scrapping would  be a better choice than a chemical stripper.

Best of luck,

James
SV Sueno, Maramu #220
Lefkas Greece




Sent from Samsung tablet.

-------- Original message --------
From: "smiles bernard via Groups.Io" <smilesbernard@...>
Date: 9/30/19 10:43 PM (GMT+02:00)
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Cabin sole revarnish

Hello fellow Amelians 
After over a year of solid family use my floors  are due a revarnish
I’ve found a great product for stripping the old varnish. Completely odourless and non toxic which is great for confined working spaces and works great. (Safe for grp too and can be used for antifould strip )


I’m still trying to figure out what to put on next and the process. 

My floorboards are a little stained so was planning a light rub down with 240 grit. Perhaps a team cleaner too?
Then revarnish. I’m only interested in single part options tbh so it would seem the main choices are:
- spar varnish for rapid build up followed by a harder wearing top layer or two such as epifanes rubbed effect
- polyurethane like that used in bowling alleys ie non marine specific but hard wearing
- an oil based option. I think sikens have a few options but I’m not sure it that’s at all suitable for interior 

Thoughts and expectations much appreciated

I’m leaning towards polyurethane but my only concern is how to ever remove it. I’m not keen on leaving the next keeper of sea Love a pig of a job when it comes to the next  cabin sole refurbishment 

All the very best
Miles
Sea Love #162


Re: Gearbox for outhaulAmel

 

You can probably wait. Limit the use to short bursts. 

BTW, measuring the amps is an excellent method of determining this mechanical problem. If your 55 is like others I have seen, the gearbox may be full of corrosion.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Amel Yacht Owners School - www.AmelYachtOwnersSchool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970


On Mon, Sep 30, 2019, 10:04 AM Joerg Esdorn via Groups.Io <jhe1313=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
For a few weeks or possibly months, the outhaul furler has been slower than the main furler on my A55.  Amel had me check the current limiter - it’s ok - and then had me check the current when furling.  The main furler was about 15A, the outhaul however was 60 to 70 A.  The diagnosis is that I have a failed bearing in the gearbox for the furler.  I’m only 200 miles away from my winter location- do I need to deal with this issue now?  How difficult is it to take the gearbox off and replace the bearing?  The boat is from 2016 so hopefully I don’t have the problem with the seized shaft which has been the topic of lots of discussions on this forum.   Many thanks for any thoughts. 

Joerg Esdorn
A55 Kincsem
currently in Cascais 

Re: Fresh water pump connector

 

Alex,

I believe something has changed since this left the Amel yard. The white plastic piece has been added. Refer to page 58 of your 54 Users Manual. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Amel Yacht Owners School - www.AmelYachtOwnersSchool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Mon, Sep 30, 2019, 10:03 AM Alexander Ramseyer <alexramseyer@...> wrote:
Dear Amelians,
On the pic you see a beige plastic part that connects to the grey tube. It's dripping water. I'm trying to disassemble, turning, pulling, pushing...no success  It stays where it is and the grey tube doesn't come out.. I don't want to apply to much power as I don't know that plumbing connector. Could you help and provide some advice?
Thank you,
Alex
NO STRESS 
AMEL54#15
Mystic, CT

Re: Rudder seal

Beaute Olivier
 

Hello Paul,

no it's not OK to replace the packing material while the boat is afloat. You would then have a strong water ingress while you're working for installing the new stuff.
Do it while you do a new anti-fouling, unless you can't wait because you see alot of water coming in and the nylon nut is already all the way in. Then no other option than hauling-out.

Good luck.

Olivier

On Tuesday, October 1, 2019, 06:47:50 PM GMT+2, Paul Brown <feeder.brown@...> wrote:


Hi Mark, thank you very much and roger that, I have now tightened it as your information but about a 1/2 turn as it was leaking a lot.

So if I do need to replace the packing material I’m guessing you remove the nut to do this and this is ok while the boat is in the water?

Kind Regards Paul 


On 1 Oct 2019, at 6:22 pm, Mark McGovern <mfmcgovern@...> wrote:

Paul,

In the Super Maramu there is a large nut at the top of the post.  You tighten it by turning it clockwise looking at it from above.  The general recommendation is to turn it 1/6 of a turn at a time and then wait and check for leaks.  Continue this process until the leak stops.  If it does not ever stop you will need to replace the packing material. 

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA

Re: Rudder seal

Paul Brown
 

Hi Mark, thank you very much and roger that, I have now tightened it as your information but about a 1/2 turn as it was leaking a lot.

So if I do need to replace the packing material I’m guessing you remove the nut to do this and this is ok while the boat is in the water?

Kind Regards Paul 


On 1 Oct 2019, at 6:22 pm, Mark McGovern <mfmcgovern@...> wrote:

Paul,

In the Super Maramu there is a large nut at the top of the post.  You tighten it by turning it clockwise looking at it from above.  The general recommendation is to turn it 1/6 of a turn at a time and then wait and check for leaks.  Continue this process until the leak stops.  If it does not ever stop you will need to replace the packing material. 

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA

Re: Rudder seal

Mark McGovern
 

Paul,

In the Super Maramu there is a large nut at the top of the post.  You tighten it by turning it clockwise looking at it from above.  The general recommendation is to turn it 1/6 of a turn at a time and then wait and check for leaks.  Continue this process until the leak stops.  If it does not ever stop you will need to replace the packing material. 

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA

Rudder seal

Paul Brown
 

hello all, 

i am inquiring for some assistance please 

there is a fair amount of sea water entering the rudder steering compartment, it’s likely I think via the rudder seal.

can you please advise the best approach to seal this correctly:

would i tighten the rudder nut clockwise or anticlockwise and is it likely new seals are required and what may the process be to replace and maintain this item?

thank you in advance for any assistance 

kind regards Paul - Fortuna II 55/17

Re: Annapolis Boat Show

Gary Wells
 

Well, we just weren't certain that we would actually be able to return to the Annapolis area in time for anything, but the good part of having been chased away from Nova Scotia by a hurricane is that our timing worked out after all.
That, and the new grandbaby factor worked out just right.

Adagio is in Galesville and we are planning on getting plugged in to as many events as we can. Between the boat show itself, Amel owner events, OCC and SSCA events and catching up.with local friends October is promising to be a very busy month indeed!  

I don't think we will bring Adagio to the Annapolis anchorage but rather will stay on the dock here in Galesville and drive up.

Of course, we'd love to host a couple of "soon-to-be" or "olde-time" friends aboard but I don't think we can do a 'party' or 'gathering' thing this far away from the show. We could definitely arrange for afternoon or evening visits tho. 

Now, it's time re-read all the posts about the goings-on of the Amel crowd and see what we can attend!  ..  (should someone warn the authorities about all this? :) )

It's good to be back in 'home' waters and I look forward to getting connected/re-connected when the chance occurs!  

Gary W.
SM209, Adagio
Galesville, MD

Re: Cabin sole revarnish

Denise McGovern
 

Miles,

We used Waterlox on a 40 year old cabin sole with beautiful results.  https://www.waterlox.com/marine  

An big advantage is that you can re-coat at any time to build the finish,  fix a problem spot, or give a refresh.

Good luck!
Denise
s/v CARA
SM #440
Chesapeake Bay