Date   
Re: Solar and shade

Kelly Ran
 

Hi Joerg,

We installed 500W worth of panels on our bimini - 5 x 100W. We did not have the budget (or eye) for a solar arch.
I designed the system such that each panel has its own charge controller. When not sailing, we bring the boom to one side, so only one panel (out of five) is shaded at any given time.
In the Caribbean, we got 80+ Ah each day (@ 24V), which covered most *but not all* of our energy needs.
In peak summer in Boston, we can stay on the hook indefinitely (many sunlight hours and less refrigeration power needed).

kelly + ryan
SM233 Iteration
Boston

On Sun, Sep 29, 2019 at 4:52 PM Paul Brown <feeder.brown@...> wrote:
Thanks for the image and thought Joerg 

I think the only productive way over the wheel house is again as you’re plan, 1 panel on either side of the boom with separate controllers or both panels wired in parallel is optimum. 1 panel covering that area would not be very productive as it would be shaded most of the time, even the shading from stay wires will greatly reduce production of that and any other panel connected in series. The most productive position is aft over the dingy davits and if possible above the height of the mizzen boom, I expect this is why there are so many solar arches added to the aft these days...

Kind regards Paul 


On 29 Sep 2019, at 9:02 pm, Joerg Esdorn via Groups.Io <jhe1313@...> wrote:

very helpful, yes, thanks much Paul.  I have 400W in the same space - that's an easy upgrade.  I figure I can install at least 500W on the wheel house.  Space available over the fixed portion up to the opening hatches is about 1300 long x2100 wide - so could have 2 panels with separate regulator - one port, one starboard.  I have to find panels that are 1300 long and about 1000 wide.  Remember that my main sheet isn't an issue because it ends on the mizzen mast, not the wheel house.  But A55 No. 3 with your mainsheet setup has one panel and the owner is very happy with it.  See pic.

Cheers Joerg

Joerg Esdorn
A55 Kincsem    <Ozouri solar.jpg>

Re: Solar and shade

Paul Brown
 

Thanks for the image and thought Joerg 

I think the only productive way over the wheel house is again as you’re plan, 1 panel on either side of the boom with separate controllers or both panels wired in parallel is optimum. 1 panel covering that area would not be very productive as it would be shaded most of the time, even the shading from stay wires will greatly reduce production of that and any other panel connected in series. The most productive position is aft over the dingy davits and if possible above the height of the mizzen boom, I expect this is why there are so many solar arches added to the aft these days...

Kind regards Paul 


On 29 Sep 2019, at 9:02 pm, Joerg Esdorn via Groups.Io <jhe1313@...> wrote:

very helpful, yes, thanks much Paul.  I have 400W in the same space - that's an easy upgrade.  I figure I can install at least 500W on the wheel house.  Space available over the fixed portion up to the opening hatches is about 1300 long x2100 wide - so could have 2 panels with separate regulator - one port, one starboard.  I have to find panels that are 1300 long and about 1000 wide.  Remember that my main sheet isn't an issue because it ends on the mizzen mast, not the wheel house.  But A55 No. 3 with your mainsheet setup has one panel and the owner is very happy with it.  See pic.

Cheers Joerg

Joerg Esdorn
A55 Kincsem    <Ozouri solar.jpg>

Re: Solar and shade

Joerg Esdorn
 

very helpful, yes, thanks much Paul.  I have 400W in the same space - that's an easy upgrade.  I figure I can install at least 500W on the wheel house.  Space available over the fixed portion up to the opening hatches is about 1300 long x2100 wide - so could have 2 panels with separate regulator - one port, one starboard.  I have to find panels that are 1300 long and about 1000 wide.  Remember that my main sheet isn't an issue because it ends on the mizzen mast, not the wheel house.  But A55 No. 3 with your mainsheet setup has one panel and the owner is very happy with it.  See pic.

Cheers Joerg

Joerg Esdorn
A55 Kincsem    

Re: Water maker end cap leak

Chuck_Kim_Joy
 

Thanks Mark. That's exactly what I needed. Mark F is good and has helped me in the past. I'll give him a call. Hope you are enjoying your time in the western carribean. We follow your web page with great interest. 

On Sun, Sep 29, 2019 at 12:00 PM Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

Chuck,

 

I recently purchased some of those from:

 

Mark Fruehauf                    
BALCEN             .                
120 Exchange St. STE 300        
Portland, ME 04101
207 522 6737  Tel
info@...
www.balcen.com

 

They ship worldwide.  

 

Item# 007-001

Desc: SERTO – SO 21121

 

$8.64 ea.

 

watermaker thing.jpg

 

These do thread into the end-caps and have very delicate threads. Do not over-tighten. You need to remove the water-maker tubes from the holder for replacement.

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Vista Mar, Panama

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Chuck_Kim_Joy
Sent: Saturday, September 28, 2019 6:53 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Water maker end cap leak

 

Greetings All,
I developed a leak on the low pressure product water side of the watermaker membrane. It appears to be coming from the gray attachment piece fit directly into the end cap. I tried to tighten assuming it is threaded in. I can't see it as it would require dropping the membrane out of its holder. I am not on the boat now but would like to bring the part back with me. Does anyone know if it does thread in and is it a replacement part?  PA this is not on the bobbin side. Thanks for your time. 
Chuck 
Joy #388
Trinidad 

Re: Water maker end cap leak

Mark Erdos
 

Chuck,

 

I recently purchased some of those from:

 

Mark Fruehauf                    
BALCEN             .                
120 Exchange St. STE 300        
Portland, ME 04101
207 522 6737  Tel
info@...
www.balcen.com

 

They ship worldwide.  

 

Item# 007-001

Desc: SERTO – SO 21121

 

$8.64 ea.

 

watermaker thing.jpg

 

These do thread into the end-caps and have very delicate threads. Do not over-tighten. You need to remove the water-maker tubes from the holder for replacement.

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Vista Mar, Panama

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Chuck_Kim_Joy
Sent: Saturday, September 28, 2019 6:53 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Water maker end cap leak

 

Greetings All,
I developed a leak on the low pressure product water side of the watermaker membrane. It appears to be coming from the gray attachment piece fit directly into the end cap. I tried to tighten assuming it is threaded in. I can't see it as it would require dropping the membrane out of its holder. I am not on the boat now but would like to bring the part back with me. Does anyone know if it does thread in and is it a replacement part?  PA this is not on the bobbin side. Thanks for your time. 
Chuck 
Joy #388
Trinidad 

Re: Water maker end cap leak

 

Chuck,

I was told that these low pressure fittings are available at Home Depot. Unfortunately, I do not have further information.

Bill

--
CW Bill Rouse Amel Yacht Owners School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   


On Sat, Sep 28, 2019 at 5:53 PM Chuck_Kim_Joy <clacey9@...> wrote:
Greetings All,
I developed a leak on the low pressure product water side of the watermaker membrane. It appears to be coming from the gray attachment piece fit directly into the end cap. I tried to tighten assuming it is threaded in. I can't see it as it would require dropping the membrane out of its holder. I am not on the boat now but would like to bring the part back with me. Does anyone know if it does thread in and is it a replacement part?  PA this is not on the bobbin side. Thanks for your time. 
Chuck 
Joy #388
Trinidad 

Re: Solar and shade

Paul Brown
 

This is my solar panels at present, 2x Panasonic 330w/24v delivers around max 16A (achieving around 120-150ah per day average) and very secure with no issues for wind or waves and looks low key, it’s the width and length of the davits, I hope helps Joerg:
image3.jpeg
image2.jpeg
image1.jpeg


On 29 Sep 2019, at 3:29 pm, Joerg Esdorn via Groups.Io <jhe1313@...> wrote:

Thanks guys.  I may upgrade the stern panels as well but I am concerned about windage, waves and esthetics.   So for me, I will never have enough solar to run the entire boat at anchor.  At sea, I have hydro which covers a lot.  

Joerg Esdorn
A55 Kincsem 

Re: Solar and shade

Joerg Esdorn
 

Thanks guys.  I may upgrade the stern panels as well but I am concerned about windage, waves and esthetics.   So for me, I will never have enough solar to run the entire boat at anchor.  At sea, I have hydro which covers a lot.  

Joerg Esdorn
A55 Kincsem 

Re: Headsail furler issues

Craig & Katherine Briggs SN 68 Sangaris Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
 

Adam - Interesting idea from Vladimir - worth popping the motor off the gearbox to see if it works both ways by itself.

Re: Headsail furler issues

VLADIMIR SONSEV
 

It can be mechanical problem in the worm gear mechanism. It happened on my boat.
The bearing on one side of the worm failed and was jamming one direction of rotation.

Vladimir
SM345

On Sun, Sep 29, 2019, 9:45 AM Adam Body <adamgcbody@...> wrote:
Thank you Ian,Bill and Danny for the very helpful responses.  I have checked the "in" solenoid, pressed the button on the bottom, and there is 24 V coming through (measured by multimeter so no load). It does have a very healthy click sound when the cockpit switch is activated, so the likelihood is that it is ok.  So..... then I located new brushes on the boat, and replaced all 4. There was quite a bit of graphite dust when I took off the bottom plastic brush covers. But .... the problem persists! The "out rotation" works fine. The "in" rotation works very infrequently, and then only after holding the cockpit switch down for an extended few seconds. I am now thinking I need to remove the motor and take it to an auto electrician to clean it up and test the windings, armature etc.
--
Adam Body "Flora" SM 0030017SM 128 Annee 1994

Re: Headsail furler issues

Adam Body
 

Thank you Ian,Bill and Danny for the very helpful responses.  I have checked the "in" solenoid, pressed the button on the bottom, and there is 24 V coming through (measured by multimeter so no load). It does have a very healthy click sound when the cockpit switch is activated, so the likelihood is that it is ok.  So..... then I located new brushes on the boat, and replaced all 4. There was quite a bit of graphite dust when I took off the bottom plastic brush covers. But .... the problem persists! The "out rotation" works fine. The "in" rotation works very infrequently, and then only after holding the cockpit switch down for an extended few seconds. I am now thinking I need to remove the motor and take it to an auto electrician to clean it up and test the windings, armature etc.
--
Adam Body "Flora" SM 0030017SM 128 Annee 1994

Re: Headsail furler issues

Ian
 

Try tapping the motor with a soft mallet or something similar. It worked for me until I tidied the brushes up. I still need to order some new ones at the end of the season, but removing the brushes and cleaning them with fine abrasive paper ensured they slid in their mountings. Another issue was that the springs had corroded at the contact with the carbon brushes, so I removed them and carefully bent them to provide a good contact again. Problem temporarily solved until I get the new springs and brushes..
But try a brisk tap on the motor first!

Ian

Ocean Hobo SN96

Re: Solar and shade

Paul Brown
 

Thanks Scott for both images, it looked good and strong for sure and a reasonable price 

Kind Regards Paul 


On 29 Sep 2019, at 12:50 am, Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:

Another photo. Note the vertical near the stern light. Initially the boatyard continued the diagonal near the upper right of the photo all the way to the stern. As should be obvious, that interferes with lifting a dinghy tight against the davits.

"It's fine having the dinghy at 45 degrees, people do it all the time!", they said.

I kicked and screamed until they changed it.
--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

Re: Solar and shade

Paul Brown
 

Thank you for the image, I like the simplistic lines and would expect it to be adequate given the strength through the davits 

A drone landing pad is very handy too

Thanks Paul 


On 29 Sep 2019, at 12:50 am, Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:

Another photo. Note the vertical near the stern light. Initially the boatyard continued the diagonal near the upper right of the photo all the way to the stern. As should be obvious, that interferes with lifting a dinghy tight against the davits.

"It's fine having the dinghy at 45 degrees, people do it all the time!", they said.

I kicked and screamed until they changed it.
--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

Re: Parts4Engines - Vendor Experience

Ian Townsend
 

Hi Gary. That's the crazy part. The turbo was OEM! 

Ian & Margaret
S/V Loca Lola II 
SM153
US East Coast

On Sep 28, 2019, at 1:14 PM, Gary Wells <gary@...> wrote:

I had a similarly favorable experience with them. 
Although it was just for a spare starter motor  that has  yet to be installed. 
Still, fast service and good pricing vs. oem. 

Gary W.
SM209, "Adagio"
Maryland, USA

Re: Chain and Anchor

Scott SV Tengah
 

Just curious re: your stainless chain- is it very obvious that it needs to be replaced? Ours is 12 years old and looks generally fine, but I've also had pristine looking stainless snap on me.
--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

Water maker end cap leak

Chuck_Kim_Joy
 

Greetings All,
I developed a leak on the low pressure product water side of the watermaker membrane. It appears to be coming from the gray attachment piece fit directly into the end cap. I tried to tighten assuming it is threaded in. I can't see it as it would require dropping the membrane out of its holder. I am not on the boat now but would like to bring the part back with me. Does anyone know if it does thread in and is it a replacement part?  PA this is not on the bobbin side. Thanks for your time. 
Chuck 
Joy #388
Trinidad 

Re: Solar and shade

Scott SV Tengah
 

Another photo. Note the vertical near the stern light. Initially the boatyard continued the diagonal near the upper right of the photo all the way to the stern. As should be obvious, that interferes with lifting a dinghy tight against the davits.

"It's fine having the dinghy at 45 degrees, people do it all the time!", they said.

I kicked and screamed until they changed it.
--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

Re: Solar and shade

Scott SV Tengah
 

Dean - Great idea with using it as a drone landing pad!

Paul - my arch is not low visual impact, but I am pretty confident it can handle anything we throw at it. See attached - please ignore the clothes lines / mess. :) I paid around 2000euros in Spain for it. 

With my controller near the battery compartment, I ran a pair of 13mm2 wires from the arch to the MPPT. Not sure if there's enough space for 3 pairs. But your solution with the 3 controllers is the. best with respect to minimizing the impact of shading on power production. Also the most expensive!


--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

Re: Bamar MEJ1.02

ngtnewington Newington
 

Wow that was a comprehensive answer. Thanks Arno. Not sure yet what I will do as I am in the UK for another couple of weeks before gong back to the boat.
Nick
Amelia 
AML54-019


On 28 Sep 2019, at 19:43, Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:

Yes, the grey ones are the thermal sensor. The idea is to put it in the 24 Volt feed line of the switch that operates the furler so when it becomes too hot the furler will cease operation untill it has cooled down. The problem will be that the feed line of the switch is in the cockpit and does not go anywhere near the Boxtron controller. Only the two wires "behind" the switch are led to the Boxtron. The simplest way to way around this is is to assume that overheating will most likely take place during furling the sail (as opposed to unfurling). In that case you can put the sensor in series with the wire from the cockpit switch that makes the Boxtron activate the counter-clockwise (furling) motion.
Alternative you can run two additional cables between the switch and the Boxtron but that will be a pig to put in.
My solution when I was faced wit this problem was to include an interface box to handle the issue (see: https://amelyachtowners.groups.io/g/main/message/44275?p=,,,20,0,0,0::relevance,,bamar,20,2,0,29771214,d=5&d=5)
You could also ignore the cable and simply not connect it and make sure you do not overstress the furlers.

Regards,
Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121