Date   
Re: Headsail furler issues

Craig & Katherine Briggs SN 68 Sangaris Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
 

Adam - Interesting idea from Vladimir - worth popping the motor off the gearbox to see if it works both ways by itself.

Re: Headsail furler issues

VLADIMIR SONSEV
 

It can be mechanical problem in the worm gear mechanism. It happened on my boat.
The bearing on one side of the worm failed and was jamming one direction of rotation.

Vladimir
SM345

On Sun, Sep 29, 2019, 9:45 AM Adam Body <adamgcbody@...> wrote:
Thank you Ian,Bill and Danny for the very helpful responses.  I have checked the "in" solenoid, pressed the button on the bottom, and there is 24 V coming through (measured by multimeter so no load). It does have a very healthy click sound when the cockpit switch is activated, so the likelihood is that it is ok.  So..... then I located new brushes on the boat, and replaced all 4. There was quite a bit of graphite dust when I took off the bottom plastic brush covers. But .... the problem persists! The "out rotation" works fine. The "in" rotation works very infrequently, and then only after holding the cockpit switch down for an extended few seconds. I am now thinking I need to remove the motor and take it to an auto electrician to clean it up and test the windings, armature etc.
--
Adam Body "Flora" SM 0030017SM 128 Annee 1994

Re: Headsail furler issues

Adam Body
 

Thank you Ian,Bill and Danny for the very helpful responses.  I have checked the "in" solenoid, pressed the button on the bottom, and there is 24 V coming through (measured by multimeter so no load). It does have a very healthy click sound when the cockpit switch is activated, so the likelihood is that it is ok.  So..... then I located new brushes on the boat, and replaced all 4. There was quite a bit of graphite dust when I took off the bottom plastic brush covers. But .... the problem persists! The "out rotation" works fine. The "in" rotation works very infrequently, and then only after holding the cockpit switch down for an extended few seconds. I am now thinking I need to remove the motor and take it to an auto electrician to clean it up and test the windings, armature etc.
--
Adam Body "Flora" SM 0030017SM 128 Annee 1994

Re: Headsail furler issues

Ian
 

Try tapping the motor with a soft mallet or something similar. It worked for me until I tidied the brushes up. I still need to order some new ones at the end of the season, but removing the brushes and cleaning them with fine abrasive paper ensured they slid in their mountings. Another issue was that the springs had corroded at the contact with the carbon brushes, so I removed them and carefully bent them to provide a good contact again. Problem temporarily solved until I get the new springs and brushes..
But try a brisk tap on the motor first!

Ian

Ocean Hobo SN96

Re: Solar and shade

Paul Brown
 

Thanks Scott for both images, it looked good and strong for sure and a reasonable price 

Kind Regards Paul 


On 29 Sep 2019, at 12:50 am, Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:

Another photo. Note the vertical near the stern light. Initially the boatyard continued the diagonal near the upper right of the photo all the way to the stern. As should be obvious, that interferes with lifting a dinghy tight against the davits.

"It's fine having the dinghy at 45 degrees, people do it all the time!", they said.

I kicked and screamed until they changed it.
--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

Re: Solar and shade

Paul Brown
 

Thank you for the image, I like the simplistic lines and would expect it to be adequate given the strength through the davits 

A drone landing pad is very handy too

Thanks Paul 


On 29 Sep 2019, at 12:50 am, Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:

Another photo. Note the vertical near the stern light. Initially the boatyard continued the diagonal near the upper right of the photo all the way to the stern. As should be obvious, that interferes with lifting a dinghy tight against the davits.

"It's fine having the dinghy at 45 degrees, people do it all the time!", they said.

I kicked and screamed until they changed it.
--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

Re: Parts4Engines - Vendor Experience

Ian Townsend
 

Hi Gary. That's the crazy part. The turbo was OEM! 

Ian & Margaret
S/V Loca Lola II 
SM153
US East Coast

On Sep 28, 2019, at 1:14 PM, Gary Wells <gary@...> wrote:

I had a similarly favorable experience with them. 
Although it was just for a spare starter motor  that has  yet to be installed. 
Still, fast service and good pricing vs. oem. 

Gary W.
SM209, "Adagio"
Maryland, USA

Re: Chain and Anchor

Scott SV Tengah
 

Just curious re: your stainless chain- is it very obvious that it needs to be replaced? Ours is 12 years old and looks generally fine, but I've also had pristine looking stainless snap on me.
--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

Water maker end cap leak

Chuck_Kim_Joy
 

Greetings All,
I developed a leak on the low pressure product water side of the watermaker membrane. It appears to be coming from the gray attachment piece fit directly into the end cap. I tried to tighten assuming it is threaded in. I can't see it as it would require dropping the membrane out of its holder. I am not on the boat now but would like to bring the part back with me. Does anyone know if it does thread in and is it a replacement part?  PA this is not on the bobbin side. Thanks for your time. 
Chuck 
Joy #388
Trinidad 

Re: Solar and shade

Scott SV Tengah
 

Another photo. Note the vertical near the stern light. Initially the boatyard continued the diagonal near the upper right of the photo all the way to the stern. As should be obvious, that interferes with lifting a dinghy tight against the davits.

"It's fine having the dinghy at 45 degrees, people do it all the time!", they said.

I kicked and screamed until they changed it.
--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

Re: Solar and shade

Scott SV Tengah
 

Dean - Great idea with using it as a drone landing pad!

Paul - my arch is not low visual impact, but I am pretty confident it can handle anything we throw at it. See attached - please ignore the clothes lines / mess. :) I paid around 2000euros in Spain for it. 

With my controller near the battery compartment, I ran a pair of 13mm2 wires from the arch to the MPPT. Not sure if there's enough space for 3 pairs. But your solution with the 3 controllers is the. best with respect to minimizing the impact of shading on power production. Also the most expensive!


--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

Re: Bamar MEJ1.02

ngtnewington Newington
 

Wow that was a comprehensive answer. Thanks Arno. Not sure yet what I will do as I am in the UK for another couple of weeks before gong back to the boat.
Nick
Amelia 
AML54-019


On 28 Sep 2019, at 19:43, Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:

Yes, the grey ones are the thermal sensor. The idea is to put it in the 24 Volt feed line of the switch that operates the furler so when it becomes too hot the furler will cease operation untill it has cooled down. The problem will be that the feed line of the switch is in the cockpit and does not go anywhere near the Boxtron controller. Only the two wires "behind" the switch are led to the Boxtron. The simplest way to way around this is is to assume that overheating will most likely take place during furling the sail (as opposed to unfurling). In that case you can put the sensor in series with the wire from the cockpit switch that makes the Boxtron activate the counter-clockwise (furling) motion.
Alternative you can run two additional cables between the switch and the Boxtron but that will be a pig to put in.
My solution when I was faced wit this problem was to include an interface box to handle the issue (see: https://amelyachtowners.groups.io/g/main/message/44275?p=,,,20,0,0,0::relevance,,bamar,20,2,0,29771214,d=5&d=5)
You could also ignore the cable and simply not connect it and make sure you do not overstress the furlers.

Regards,
Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121

Re: Solar and shade

SY STELLA
 

Paul, 
i mounted three panels on Stella using a SS structure integrated to the Davits.  Very happy with the low visual impact and functionality.
The panels also make a great drone landing pad!
Pic attached.

Re: Bamar MEJ1.02

Arno Luijten
 

Yes, the grey ones are the thermal sensor. The idea is to put it in the 24 Volt feed line of the switch that operates the furler so when it becomes too hot the furler will cease operation untill it has cooled down. The problem will be that the feed line of the switch is in the cockpit and does not go anywhere near the Boxtron controller. Only the two wires "behind" the switch are led to the Boxtron. The simplest way to way around this is is to assume that overheating will most likely take place during furling the sail (as opposed to unfurling). In that case you can put the sensor in series with the wire from the cockpit switch that makes the Boxtron activate the counter-clockwise (furling) motion.
Alternative you can run two additional cables between the switch and the Boxtron but that will be a pig to put in.
My solution when I was faced wit this problem was to include an interface box to handle the issue (see: https://amelyachtowners.groups.io/g/main/message/44275?p=,,,20,0,0,0::relevance,,bamar,20,2,0,29771214,d=5&d=5)
You could also ignore the cable and simply not connect it and make sure you do not overstress the furlers.

Regards,
Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121

Re: Chain and Anchor

Paul Brown
 

I also have a Waelder chain and for the last two years it has shown no issues around the Med, but I was anchored in Villefranche for a couple of weeks last month and noticed that it had some stains that appeared to be rust when I retrieved it, however it doesn’t appear to be permanent and perhaps only from the local weed or something on the bottom. I have not had any other issues with it and I anchor the majority of the time. 

Has or will the surface rust disappear or was it just from the local area?

Regards, Paul - Fortuna II 55/17

On 28 Sep 2019, at 20:14, Alexander Ramseyer <alexramseyer@...> wrote:

I bought the best available Waelder chain 1,5 years ago. Up here at the U.S. east coast she stays nice but in the Caribbean it instantly showed surface rust. Didn't like to see that and was constantly cleaning. A friend on another boat in the Caribbean had his Waelder showing serious pitting after only 4 years. So it really depends where you are using your chain, but Waelder is definitely overselling the quality of their product in warm/salty  waters. I won't buy it again.
Alex 
NO STRESS 
Amel54#15

Re: Chain and Anchor

Alexander Ramseyer
 

I bought the best available Waelder chain 1,5 years ago. Up here at the U.S. east coast she stays nice but in the Caribbean it instantly showed surface rust. Didn't like to see that and was constantly cleaning. A friend on another boat in the Caribbean had his Waelder showing serious pitting after only 4 years. So it really depends where you are using your chain, but Waelder is definitely overselling the quality of their product in warm/salty  waters. I won't buy it again.
Alex 
NO STRESS 
Amel54#15

Antal 120 X 18 block for Genoa

Alexander Ramseyer
 

My 2005 built 54 runs with the original Antal 120 X 18 genoa sheet blocks from the same year. What are the recommondations of this group regarding aging blocks replacements? The blocks still run fine, but I just read about a terrible accident where a breaking block hit a sailor (not on an AMEL) really hard.
Thanks, Alex
NO STRESS 
Amel54#15

Re: Solar and shade

Paul Brown
 

Hi Scott,

thank you for the information, it would be great assistance if you could send some photos, I like your idea of combining the arch with the davits, it would maintain the SWL of the davit system I expect well.

I’m intending to run a set of wires for each panel from the panels to the controller in the event that perhaps  individual controllers are the answer down the track. I know a catamaran owner that has I think around ten panels and each has its own controller, he said this system works great reducing the shading effect.

Thank you again for your assistance.

Kind regards, Paul Fortuna II 55/17

On 28 Sep 2019, at 19:02, Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:

I have an A54, but I installed three 320W LG Neon2 panels in parallel on an arch that while it can probably stand on its own, is also attached to the top of the Simpson Davits. I called Simpson and they stated that they can't openly recommend doing what I did because it might deform the tubing on the Davits, making sliding in and out difficult, but off the record it'd probably be OK.

I would not suggest putting the weight of all the panels on the davits alone without additional connections to the stern.

If you'd like, I can take some photos of my setup. It's held in 70 knot winds, so the strength seems sufficient.

Separate controllers would help reduce the effects of shading, for sure. We just went parallel instead. FYI I went for the Victron 150v/35amp model because the literature suggested that the MPPT is good for 1000w systems and mine is rated for 960w. I can attest that my LG panels have hit the 35amp limit on sunny days, so if I'd do it again, I'd upsize the MPPT.

--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

Re: Parts4Engines - Vendor Experience

Gary Wells
 

I had a similarly favorable experience with them. 
Although it was just for a spare starter motor  that has  yet to be installed. 
Still, fast service and good pricing vs. oem. 

Gary W.
SM209, "Adagio"
Maryland, USA

Re: Solar and shade

Scott SV Tengah
 

I have an A54, but I installed three 320W LG Neon2 panels in parallel on an arch that while it can probably stand on its own, is also attached to the top of the Simpson Davits. I called Simpson and they stated that they can't openly recommend doing what I did because it might deform the tubing on the Davits, making sliding in and out difficult, but off the record it'd probably be OK.

I would not suggest putting the weight of all the panels on the davits alone without additional connections to the stern.

If you'd like, I can take some photos of my setup. It's held in 70 knot winds, so the strength seems sufficient.

Separate controllers would help reduce the effects of shading, for sure. We just went parallel instead. FYI I went for the Victron 150v/35amp model because the literature suggested that the MPPT is good for 1000w systems and mine is rated for 960w. I can attest that my LG panels have hit the 35amp limit on sunny days, so if I'd do it again, I'd upsize the MPPT.

--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com