Date   

Re: Near constant hot water without a generator - Here is how i did it.

 

Bravo Eric. and I do not believe there is any difference in AC vs DC resistance heating element...but ask an electrician.

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sun, May 17, 2020 at 9:40 AM Matt Salatino via groups.io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Eric,
Excellent configuration. Where do you get $C heating elements? And is there really a difference between AC and DC elements? Seems it would just be a resistance heater? Different resistance?

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On May 17, 2020, at 10:04 AM, Eric Meury <ericmeury@...> wrote:

We have an santorin with no generator but have 1000 Watts of solar.  400 of those watts are shaded -  200 is behind the main mast flexible panels and 200 is on the new hard top bimini (room for more)  The bulk of the power comes from 600 Watts on the arch. 

Here is what we did.  

1.  Added the Victron 712 Battery Monitor that is bluetooth and replaced the Amel Shunt 

2.  Changed out the AC heating element for a 600 Watt DC element (300 Watt can be used as well)

3.  Added a Victron Battery Protect -  this serves as the relay and what powers the heating element.  - ie the heating element positive cable is connected to the battery protect .
 (BPR065022000 Victron Energy BPR065022000 Smart BatteryProtect with Bluetooth 12/24V - 65A) -  $59 bucks from pkys

4.  Disconnected the thermostat wire from the heating element and attached it directly to the relay.

Here is how it works -  The BMV has a relay setting.  This is set to Default mode but i changed the settings to Invert.  The Low SOC is set to 90 and 96.  What this means is that the relay will be powered when the SOC is anything above 90%.  When it gets to 90% it will turn off and will not turn back on again until the SOC is 96% (these can be changed)  -  This send a signal to the battery protect to "turn on" thus sending power to the heating element.  The battery protect has a shutdown setting of 12.4 volts  (i can change that to really anything but this was set to be an absolule failsafe to never let the batteries go below 12.4).  It turns back on when the batteries are 12.75. I have never seen 12.4 from my bank.   The tempature sensor is set to what ever the factory setting is...i  imagine it is 105 degrees (torried marine water heater).  

So everyday and a couple of times a day depending on how much water is used, my heater will turn on automatically in the mid morning as by that time i have recovered from the nightly discharge and am now above 96%/.  The element will draw a full 600 Watts until such time that either thhe SOC is 90% OR the tempature sensor says - he we are good and have plenty of hot water.  The first time i rant it it took a good 1.5 to 2 hours to get to that tempature. but my batteries never eached 90% as i'm usually producting 400-500 Watts and only have 600 watt drain so max i see going out during the day is 200-250 watts -  (if you use a 300 Watt Element and have plenty of solar you won't go negative but will talke longer)  Since i have this it only needs to run for maybe 15 to 20 mins and occastionally longer to keep the water at the tempature set by the tempature sensor.  

We now take a hot shower everyday and my 2 year old plays in a warm baby pool almost everyday.  -  All of this is powered with solar. (and soon to be wind)   

If i'm on the hard (which i am right now) it still works just the same and If i plug in heat water just by using the battery charger.  

If you have a desire (or don't have one) to not have to run your genset to heat water daily then this is a good way to go provided you have enough solar to make it happen.  We have one fridge and one freezer and a 12 volt home built spectra watermaker.  All of the settings are controlled from my phone via the victron connect app.  I can completley turn off the water heater by accessign the battery protect  - there is a setting to disable.  

I do not have lithium batteries but my bank is large with 4 - L16 Flooded Wet Cell batteries with 840 Amp hours.  


Re: Onan ballbearing check and valves values

 

Sorry, guys. I did exactly the same thing as Gary Silver, and the bearing was never installed.
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sat, May 16, 2020 at 12:45 PM Craig & Katherine Briggs SN 68 Sangaris Tropic Isle Harbor, FL via groups.io <sangaris=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Gary,
It's been awhile, but I replaced the rotor bearing on my Northern Lights 6kw genset in situ with little difficulty. The rotor remains bolted to the flywheel as you remove the end with the bearing - no external support needed. I recall I did the old put-it-in-the-freezer trick to shrink the bearing and it slid in with no press needed.  That was at about 3000 hours; now I'm at 7500 and am overdue, so will tackle again soon. (I'm getting a very slight vibration with heavy loads.)
If you want to remove the rotor, as I did because it needed rewinding from salt water corrosion shorting the wires ($176 in La Paz VZ), it's heavy but quite manageable by hand. However it doesn't sound like you'd need to remove it for the 2500 hr. (if I recall correctly) bearing replacement..
Cheers, Craig


Re: Whole Boat Permanent Inverter for 220VAC 50Hz

Scott SV Tengah
 

Michael,

Have you used the VE-Config software, or other means, to check the output hz on your system when connected to 60hz shorepower? Does it show that you're getting 50hz output?

When I was designing my system, the Victron tech I talked to stated that the Victron Isolation Transformer is flexible in that it can accept 50/60hz but will not adjust a 60hz input to 50hz or vice versa. The data sheet seems to imply the same.
--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: Whole Boat Permanent Inverter for 220VAC 50Hz

Scott SV Tengah
 

The stated inverter loss you mentioned is a bit simplified. A deeper look will allow you to make the best decision given your usage patterns, which is different than everyone else's. This may be especially helpful for you as you think about adding lithium, because there are differences to lead-acid that aren't so obvious until you dig deeper. Efficiency wasn't a stated goal in Gary's post, but I presume he doesn't want to waste energy/money.

We've been living full-time with our full-boat inverter system for 18 months. Every single AC device aside from the 2nd Skylla-i Charger is wired to operate via our Quattro 5kw inverter. We routinely run the scuba compressor for an hour via inverter, with no problems. I believe the Bauer Junior II compressor has a 3x inrush current, so even 6.6kw inrush doesn't cause issues with our Quattro 5kw. Over the past 18 months, I've worked at optimizing both power production and usage. Based on those optimizations, we went from running the genset and charging our lithiums every 3 days with 200amps to now, not running the genset at all on anchor and as I am typing this at 11am, finding ways to burn off the excess solar energy to keep the batteries from getting above 90% SOC. We are running the dishwasher/washing machine/etc at the highest temp setting to burn off the excess energy.

We nearly eliminated our genset usage and ran every AC appliance aboard, efficiently, through a bit of research. It may be tempting to apply rules of thumb, but the danger if it's wrong is that it leads you to making bad decisions. Here's what I've found, which may be helpful to you and to others:

https://www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Output-rating-operating-temperature-and-efficiency.pdf

Under section 3, they talk about efficiency vs. load. This is for the Victron 3kw, but since Victron states that the Quattro and Multiplus are mostly the same internally, let's assume it scales, just with beefier components and therefore higher numbers. The Victron inverters seem to hit above 90% efficiency by 100/3000 = 6.67% of rated load. For us, that means we run the Quattro 5kw for all uses except low load items like the computer, projector and LCD. For those, we use the 800w Mastervolt inverter that came with the boat. Note also I would suggest installing a simple $5 switch to turn off the inverter when not in use. Our Quattro draws at least 40 measured watts when idle, so that $5 switch saves us 40/26.3*=36AH a day alone.

 

https://www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/VE_Marine_generator_test_RVA_07-jan-2008.pdf

Regarding genset load, our A54 came with the Onan 11KW MDKBN. Luckily Victron tested this very genset and based on the data, we can deduce that it's not necessarily best to run at full load. The efficiency curve starts to flatten out considerably around 5kw, which is less than half load for us. Further, I recall from the Onan documentation that for maximum longevity and reiterated here by Mastervolt and Fischer Panda that running above 70% reduces genset longevity. For us, our 120a Quattro + 80a Skylla=200 amps of charging (which admittedly we don't use much anymore) puts roughly a 5.2kw load on the genset which puts us in the sweet spot with respect to specific fuel consumption and most emissions measures while maximizing longevity.

Also, I think you are confusing inverter output and charger input - when Gary talks about a 4kw inverter, I believe he is talking about the inverter AC output, not AC charger input. For example, my Quattro is called a 5kw inverter but that means it can output 5kw AC from the inverter. The charger portion is only 120amps, which is roughly 120*25.6= 3kw draw from genset or shorepower when charging my batteries. It's important to understand the difference in order to size the system correctly.

With respect to the hypothetical 62 amp deficit if he were to run a 100amp (~2.6kw) charger with a 4kw inverter, there are a few more things to think about:

1) I have never run a 4kw continuous load for more than say 20 minutes. As you mention, the loads are only for a short period. Even with my aft AC, the duty cycle is really less than 40%, which means an average load of only 600w. With the washing machine, the full current is drawn when the water is being heated, which isn't for too long.
2) If you were to somehow find a way to use 4kw continuously all day, you will find that your inverter will likely heat up and reduce output, per the curves on the Victron white paper. 
3) If you are intending to go lithium, the 62 amp deficit on say my 450AH system would mean the batteries could make up the 62amp difference for over 7 hours at 4kw peak usage.

I know everyone has their own energy needs, but we've found after some thinking and tinkering, that with our usage patterns and system, we're very happy to have the inverter run everything on the boat. 

--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


anchor wash safety note

william reynolds
 


The 24 vdc breaker on the 24 volt panel controls the power to activators on the windlass, the sail motors and winches but not to the anchor wash. 

The anchor wash has direct power from the C/B panel to the switch to the pump and is fused at 10 amps @24 vdc.and is hot all the time unless you go down into the engine room and trip the circuit breaker. Running this current through the 24 vdc switch on the 24 vdc main panel for the anchor, windlass and sail motors would be an overload situation. So, the anchor wash switch is hot as long as the C/B in the engine bay is activated.

I was advised that you should to get into the engine compartment and kill or activate the anchor wash circuit breaker there to disable/enable the power to the anchor wash. Not everyone is going to do this and the anchor wash pump switch will be live (or dead) all the time.

The anchor wash power cable is right under the Ray marine A/P head in the upper access over the galley.

I installed a 15 amp, 24 vdc relay in the anchor wash power line and connected the relay activator (42 milli-amp) to the 24 volt switch that controls everything else.

Attached are photos of the installed relay and wiring choices.

Now the anchor wash switch is hot only when the main 24 vdc power to the other items is selected. A   $15 fix to protect a $250 saltwater pump.

Bill Reynolds  CloudStreet SM2K


Re: Main sail outhaul Motorspor

Kaplan,Andre
 

Mark
Thanks for your reply. Yes, I did check the breaker.. it was not tripped, but it may be suspect since it had been replaced...
I’m not on the boat today, but I will take photos next week. Unfortunately, I can hear a click when I throw the switch... by your assessment, it may be the motor... if so, does anyone know where and how to get a replacement motor? Must it come from Amel or is there a standard motor that can be used as replacement.

BTW, I always try to limit strain on motor by heading into the wind during furling or unfurling mainsail.

Thanks for any suggestions on motor replacement.

Boat lies in Westbrook, CT

Andre
Renaissance 2000
Mango 71, 1988

On May 17, 2020, at 2:21 PM, Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

*** Attention: This is an external email. Use caution responding, opening attachments or clicking on links. ***

Andre,

I am unsure if the solenoid is the same on the Mango as the SM. If it is, it
is a product used in forklift trucks. This should help you find one (not
sure where you are located). Perhaps you can post a picture.

That said, it is not usually the solenoid that fails. They are extremely
heavy duty. More often the motor burns out due to the operator putting too
much strain on it. If you hear a click as you work the outhaul switch on the
control panel, it is not the solenoid.

Stating the obvious, have you checked the breaker?


With best regards,

Mark

Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia
https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.creampuff.us__;!!N0rdg9Wr!_jfC8TlOKSYZuv_1Syg0ZKXhUrJXC8xanwngc1sf7FudMOEIRLMZFtx284jF3o8$

-----Original Message-----
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io]
On Behalf Of Kaplan,Andre
Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2020 4:43 AM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Main sail outhaul motor

I have a 1988 Mango no.71. On recommissioning this spring, the electric
outhaul for the mainsail is not working. A quick look by a yard worker
suggested the solenoid might be bad. Can someone give me advice on how to
approach this problem? If the solenoid is bad, how can I replace it? Is
there a standard solenoid that can replace the original? If so, what is the
model that I need? Must I get the replacement from Amel? If the outhaul
motor is bad, how and where can I get a replacement?
Thanks for any advice.

Andre Kaplan
Renaissance 2000
Mango 71 88






Re: Zoom Meeting Presentation of the Amel 50 from La Rochelle #ZOOM

Tilo Peters
 

Hi Matt,

Great that you got a good sail in today! Thanks for that. I’m also 6’1” and it’s good to have that frame of reference.

You did great and it was a super informative session. I hope to meet you and Cindy sometime one of these days—either in the Med or in my old stomping grounds of the Caribbean one of these days!

Cheers,

Tilo

On 17May, 2020, at 19:52, Matt Salatino via groups.io <helmsmatt@...> wrote:

Oh, you asked me how tall I was, and the signal stopped working...
I’m a hair over 6’1”

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On May 17, 2020, at 2:46 PM, Tilo Peters <tilo.peters@...> wrote:

Thanks again Matt & Cindy for the tour, and thanks Bill for setting it all up!

I’ve processed the zoom video and added subtitles.

You can find it at https://youtu.be/PK2yf-Hzr58

Best,

Tilo

On 16May, 2020, at 23:41, David Kurtz via groups.io <Davidwkurtz@...> wrote:

Matt & Cindy, thank you for a great meeting.  I happen to think this is an excellent way to stay in touch with the Amel community (I'm a new member as well).  My goal one of these days is to sail into La Rochelle on my Amel after crossing The Atlantic.  And perhaps as a future meeting, a tour of the Amel ship building facility would be really interesting.  And thanks also to Bill and Tilo for putting this together.

Regards,
Dave
-- 
Dave Kurtz
SM2 #380
S/V Celtic Cross

Detroit, Michigan




Re: Main sail outhaul motor

Mark Erdos
 

Andre,

I am unsure if the solenoid is the same on the Mango as the SM. If it is, it
is a product used in forklift trucks. This should help you find one (not
sure where you are located). Perhaps you can post a picture.

That said, it is not usually the solenoid that fails. They are extremely
heavy duty. More often the motor burns out due to the operator putting too
much strain on it. If you hear a click as you work the outhaul switch on the
control panel, it is not the solenoid.

Stating the obvious, have you checked the breaker?


With best regards,

Mark

Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia
www.creampuff.us

-----Original Message-----
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io]
On Behalf Of Kaplan,Andre
Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2020 4:43 AM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Main sail outhaul motor

I have a 1988 Mango no.71. On recommissioning this spring, the electric
outhaul for the mainsail is not working. A quick look by a yard worker
suggested the solenoid might be bad. Can someone give me advice on how to
approach this problem? If the solenoid is bad, how can I replace it? Is
there a standard solenoid that can replace the original? If so, what is the
model that I need? Must I get the replacement from Amel? If the outhaul
motor is bad, how and where can I get a replacement?
Thanks for any advice.

Andre Kaplan
Renaissance 2000
Mango 71 88


Re: Zoom Meeting Presentation of the Amel 50 from La Rochelle #ZOOM

Matt Salatino
 

Oh, you asked me how tall I was, and the signal stopped working...
I’m a hair over 6’1”

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On May 17, 2020, at 2:46 PM, Tilo Peters <tilo.peters@...> wrote:

Thanks again Matt & Cindy for the tour, and thanks Bill for setting it all up!

I’ve processed the zoom video and added subtitles.

You can find it at https://youtu.be/PK2yf-Hzr58

Best,

Tilo

On 16May, 2020, at 23:41, David Kurtz via groups.io <Davidwkurtz@...> wrote:

Matt & Cindy, thank you for a great meeting.  I happen to think this is an excellent way to stay in touch with the Amel community (I'm a new member as well).  My goal one of these days is to sail into La Rochelle on my Amel after crossing The Atlantic.  And perhaps as a future meeting, a tour of the Amel ship building facility would be really interesting.  And thanks also to Bill and Tilo for putting this together.

Regards,
Dave
--
Dave Kurtz
SM2 #380
S/V Celtic Cross

Detroit, Michigan



Re: Zoom Meeting Presentation of the Amel 50 from La Rochelle #ZOOM

Matt Salatino
 

Oh, and we went sailing on a beautiful day today!

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On May 17, 2020, at 7:15 PM, Matthew Salatino <helmsmatt@...> wrote:

Thanks! We had a blast. Of course, we thought of lots of other stuff worth demonstrating, AFTER the presentation ended!
Thanks for the opportunity, and it was a pleasure to play with you!

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On May 17, 2020, at 2:46 PM, Tilo Peters <tilo.peters@...> wrote:

Thanks again Matt & Cindy for the tour, and thanks Bill for setting it all up!

I’ve processed the zoom video and added subtitles.

You can find it at https://youtu.be/PK2yf-Hzr58

Best,

Tilo

On 16May, 2020, at 23:41, David Kurtz via groups.io <Davidwkurtz@...> wrote:

Matt & Cindy, thank you for a great meeting.  I happen to think this is an excellent way to stay in touch with the Amel community (I'm a new member as well).  My goal one of these days is to sail into La Rochelle on my Amel after crossing The Atlantic.  And perhaps as a future meeting, a tour of the Amel ship building facility would be really interesting.  And thanks also to Bill and Tilo for putting this together.

Regards,
Dave
--
Dave Kurtz
SM2 #380
S/V Celtic Cross

Detroit, Michigan



Re: Zoom Meeting Presentation of the Amel 50 from La Rochelle #ZOOM

Matt Salatino
 

Thanks! We had a blast. Of course, we thought of lots of other stuff worth demonstrating, AFTER the presentation ended!
Thanks for the opportunity, and it was a pleasure to play with you!

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On May 17, 2020, at 2:46 PM, Tilo Peters <tilo.peters@...> wrote:

Thanks again Matt & Cindy for the tour, and thanks Bill for setting it all up!

I’ve processed the zoom video and added subtitles.

You can find it at https://youtu.be/PK2yf-Hzr58

Best,

Tilo

On 16May, 2020, at 23:41, David Kurtz via groups.io <Davidwkurtz@...> wrote:

Matt & Cindy, thank you for a great meeting.  I happen to think this is an excellent way to stay in touch with the Amel community (I'm a new member as well).  My goal one of these days is to sail into La Rochelle on my Amel after crossing The Atlantic.  And perhaps as a future meeting, a tour of the Amel ship building facility would be really interesting.  And thanks also to Bill and Tilo for putting this together.

Regards,
Dave
--
Dave Kurtz
SM2 #380
S/V Celtic Cross

Detroit, Michigan



Re: Volvo oil pressure - single wire non-isolated switch

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Hi Reudi;

 

To clarify, in order for the sensor to be isolated, you need two wires. You cannot have an isolated single wire sensor, since it will utilize the engine block as the negative leg of the connection.

 

I’m pretty sure you can get the sensor from other suppliers as long as the thread, length and pressure setting of the switch is correct and the electrical connection of the sensor matches what is existing on your engine. The reason why we did not spend any time trying to source from a different location, was because we had already spent a month in Greece chasing the part, after having received the wrong part ordering from our serial number. We knew that the sensor was bad and therefore the low pressure warnings could be ignored, but it was unsettling to know that something else could have gone wrong that would have lead to an actual low pressure, that we would not know about.

 

Happy Sailing;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

AMEL 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Rudolf Waldispuehl via groups.io
Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2020 1:48 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Volvo oil pressure - single wire non-isolated switch

 

Hi Mohammad  

 

Thanks a lot for the information. That helps; - nevertheless it’s confusing that the sensor has 2 wires. Because you said they send a “single wire” non-isolated ground sensor. If I understood correctly, the single wire non-isolated ground sensor is wrong in these case?

 

So you can only get the right sensor in France by referencing the AMEL setup, right? If I find a sensor who has 2 wire terminals is supposing correct, but not 100%

 

Happy sailing

 

Ruedi and Sabina

WASABI A54#55

 

Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...>
Antworten an: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Datum: Sonntag, 17. Mai 2020 um 03:08
An: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Volvo oil pressure - single wire non-isolated switch

 

Hi Ruedi;

 

In order for the sensor to be isolated ground, it needs to have 2 wires, since it cannot use the engine block as ground. If you use the serial number of the engine to order the part, a single wire non-isolated ground sensor will be sent. My understanding, in talking to Amel, is that Volvo ships the standard engine to Volvo France. Volvo France then does the required mods to Amel Specs, one of them being isolated ground. To my surprise, Volvo does not update this information in their data base to match the serial number.

 

Here's the contact information, provided by Amel, and part number that was correct for our engine:

GWEN MARINE Mr Gwenael Rambaud :   gwen@...

Part Number: 863169 Description: CAPTEUR PRESSION

 

Happy Sailing;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

AMEL 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Rudolf Waldispuehl via groups.io
Sent: Saturday, May 16, 2020 10:20 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Volvo oil pressure - single wire non-isolated switch

 

Hi Mohammad  


I try to understand the issue with the single wire non-isolated pressure switch. I'm interested to buy one of these pressure switches for spare but don’t exactly know how to order. I can find in Internet on official VolvoPenta.com, Marinepartseurope.com or other sites the pressure switch, but I’m not sure I will receive a single wire non-isolated pressure switch.

Can you ore someone from the group please enlighten me on this topic? 


Thanks and best regards

Ruedi 

WASABI A54#55


Main sail outhaul motor

Kaplan,Andre
 

I have a 1988 Mango no.71. On recommissioning this spring, the electric outhaul for the mainsail is not working. A quick look by a yard worker suggested the solenoid might be bad. Can someone give me advice on how to approach this problem? If the solenoid is bad, how can I replace it? Is there a standard solenoid that can replace the original? If so, what is the model that I need? Must I get the replacement from Amel? If the outhaul motor is bad, how and where can I get a replacement?
Thanks for any advice.

Andre Kaplan
Renaissance 2000
Mango 71 88


Re: Near constant hot water without a generator - Here is how i did it.

Matt Salatino
 

Eric,
Excellent configuration. Where do you get $C heating elements? And is there really a difference between AC and DC elements? Seems it would just be a resistance heater? Different resistance?

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On May 17, 2020, at 10:04 AM, Eric Meury <ericmeury@...> wrote:

We have an santorin with no generator but have 1000 Watts of solar.  400 of those watts are shaded -  200 is behind the main mast flexible panels and 200 is on the new hard top bimini (room for more)  The bulk of the power comes from 600 Watts on the arch. 

Here is what we did.  

1.  Added the Victron 712 Battery Monitor that is bluetooth and replaced the Amel Shunt 

2.  Changed out the AC heating element for a 600 Watt DC element (300 Watt can be used as well)

3.  Added a Victron Battery Protect -  this serves as the relay and what powers the heating element.  - ie the heating element positive cable is connected to the battery protect .
 (BPR065022000 Victron Energy BPR065022000 Smart BatteryProtect with Bluetooth 12/24V - 65A) -  $59 bucks from pkys

4.  Disconnected the thermostat wire from the heating element and attached it directly to the relay.

Here is how it works -  The BMV has a relay setting.  This is set to Default mode but i changed the settings to Invert.  The Low SOC is set to 90 and 96.  What this means is that the relay will be powered when the SOC is anything above 90%.  When it gets to 90% it will turn off and will not turn back on again until the SOC is 96% (these can be changed)  -  This send a signal to the battery protect to "turn on" thus sending power to the heating element.  The battery protect has a shutdown setting of 12.4 volts  (i can change that to really anything but this was set to be an absolule failsafe to never let the batteries go below 12.4).  It turns back on when the batteries are 12.75. I have never seen 12.4 from my bank.   The tempature sensor is set to what ever the factory setting is...i  imagine it is 105 degrees (torried marine water heater).  

So everyday and a couple of times a day depending on how much water is used, my heater will turn on automatically in the mid morning as by that time i have recovered from the nightly discharge and am now above 96%/.  The element will draw a full 600 Watts until such time that either thhe SOC is 90% OR the tempature sensor says - he we are good and have plenty of hot water.  The first time i rant it it took a good 1.5 to 2 hours to get to that tempature. but my batteries never eached 90% as i'm usually producting 400-500 Watts and only have 600 watt drain so max i see going out during the day is 200-250 watts -  (if you use a 300 Watt Element and have plenty of solar you won't go negative but will talke longer)  Since i have this it only needs to run for maybe 15 to 20 mins and occastionally longer to keep the water at the tempature set by the tempature sensor.  

We now take a hot shower everyday and my 2 year old plays in a warm baby pool almost everyday.  -  All of this is powered with solar. (and soon to be wind)   

If i'm on the hard (which i am right now) it still works just the same and If i plug in heat water just by using the battery charger.  

If you have a desire (or don't have one) to not have to run your genset to heat water daily then this is a good way to go provided you have enough solar to make it happen.  We have one fridge and one freezer and a 12 volt home built spectra watermaker.  All of the settings are controlled from my phone via the victron connect app.  I can completley turn off the water heater by accessign the battery protect  - there is a setting to disable.  

I do not have lithium batteries but my bank is large with 4 - L16 Flooded Wet Cell batteries with 840 Amp hours.  


Re: SM Turnbuckle

Kaplan,Andre
 




On May 17, 2020, at 8:51 AM, karkauai via groups.io <karkauai@...> wrote:


*** Attention: This is an external email. Use caution responding, opening attachments or clicking on links. ***
Hi John,
Like Gary, the chrome on my original rigging looked like new when I had her re-rigged at 13 years old. The new rigging  was from a well-respected company in England (sorry, I don't remember the name) that builds rigging for megayachts. When the chrome started failing on the turnbuckles after 3 years, I had it inspected by Annapolis rigging. They confirmed that it was only cosmetic. They also contacted the supplier who confirmed that they had had a bad batch of chrome that year. Unfortunately, it was out of warranty and they weren't willing to do any kind of refund.
I had a bronze turnbuckle machined locally which was not chromed. It actually looks better than the chromed turnbuckles.

Things are beginning to open up in Maryland now and Iris is starting her charter season next weekend ..with masks and as much "distancing" as possible. If all goes well with her new captains and crew, we hope to e sailing up to Maiy for July and Aug.  I hope you will be able to start moving again soon. What are your plans?
Kent & Iris
Kristy
SM243
St Michaels, MD
On May 16, 2020 9:55 AM, John Clark <john.biohead@...> wrote:
While this is a tad late to the discussion, yes the ACMO turnbuckles are chrome plated bronze....and that chrome plating is my concern.  I had Caribe Greement in Martinique replace Annie's rigging in 2017.  Shortly afterward the chrome on the turnbuckles began to look weathered even though we rinsed them and kept them clean.  Here is a picture of the main mast backstay turnbuckle, the one in the cockpit.  This one is out of the weather and the chrome is pretty much done.  Has anyone else had this issue?  


John Clark
SV Annie SM 37
Water Island USVI
  


Re: Volvo oil pressure - single wire non-isolated switch

karkauai
 

Hi Reudi,
I have a Yanmar, so I can't be specific about your Volvo needs, but in general...
To purchase an (isolated ground) two-wire pressure or temp. SWITCH, you need to know the thread size and pressure or temp. spec recommended by Volvo. With that info you should be able to find what you need.

To purchase an isolated two wire pressure or temp SENDER for gauges, you also need the gauge manufacturer and model.  If the sender and gauge don't match, you will get either no reading or erroneous readings on your gauges.

Hope that helps,
Kent
Kristy
SM 243

On May 16, 2020 1:20 PM, Rudolf Waldispuehl <Rudolf@...> wrote:

Hi Mohammad  


I try to understand the issue with the single wire non-isolated pressure switch. I'm interested to buy one of these pressure switches for spare but don’t exactly know how to order. I can find in Internet on official VolvoPenta.com, Marinepartseurope.com or other sites the pressure switch, but I’m not sure I will receive a single wire non-isolated pressure switch.

Can you ore someone from the group please enlighten me on this topic? 


Thanks and best regards

Ruedi 

WASABI A54#55



Re: SM2K Genoa Jib Cart ANTAL 624.492/C Order pending in the US #replacement #spares #order

karkauai
 

Hi Michael & Robyn
Please add one to the order for us, too. Shipping to Maryland. My private email below.

Kent and Iris
Kristy
SM 243
karkauai "at "yahoo "dot" com

On May 15, 2020 5:19 PM, Michael & Robyn <SY_RIPPLE@...> wrote:
Greetings!
We are about to order spare ANTAL Genoa Jib Cart 624.492/C
it is a custom build version of http://www.antal.it/eng/624-492_en
We hear another AMEL owner is having an order pending too and we will get a good price approx. $360 per cart.
Anybody else interested to join the order?
--
Michael & Robyn

SY RIPPLE SM2K # 417
still in Brunswick, GA



Re: Hot Water Heater Power Consumption

Eric Meury
 

Craig...adding as much solar completly changed how we cruised.  Before i would run a honda generator as we don't have a onboard diesel one.  You really can power the santorin with 100% solar.


Re: SM Turnbuckle

karkauai
 

Hi John,
Like Gary, the chrome on my original rigging looked like new when I had her re-rigged at 13 years old. The new rigging  was from a well-respected company in England (sorry, I don't remember the name) that builds rigging for megayachts. When the chrome started failing on the turnbuckles after 3 years, I had it inspected by Annapolis rigging. They confirmed that it was only cosmetic. They also contacted the supplier who confirmed that they had had a bad batch of chrome that year. Unfortunately, it was out of warranty and they weren't willing to do any kind of refund.
I had a bronze turnbuckle machined locally which was not chromed. It actually looks better than the chromed turnbuckles.

Things are beginning to open up in Maryland now and Iris is starting her charter season next weekend ..with masks and as much "distancing" as possible. If all goes well with her new captains and crew, we hope to e sailing up to Maiy for July and Aug.  I hope you will be able to start moving again soon. What are your plans?
Kent & Iris
Kristy
SM243
St Michaels, MD

On May 16, 2020 9:55 AM, John Clark <john.biohead@...> wrote:
While this is a tad late to the discussion, yes the ACMO turnbuckles are chrome plated bronze....and that chrome plating is my concern.  I had Caribe Greement in Martinique replace Annie's rigging in 2017.  Shortly afterward the chrome on the turnbuckles began to look weathered even though we rinsed them and kept them clean.  Here is a picture of the main mast backstay turnbuckle, the one in the cockpit.  This one is out of the weather and the chrome is pretty much done.  Has anyone else had this issue?  


John Clark
SV Annie SM 37
Water Island USVI
  


Re: Zoom Meeting Presentation of the Amel 50 from La Rochelle #ZOOM

Tilo Peters
 

Thanks again Matt & Cindy for the tour, and thanks Bill for setting it all up!

I’ve processed the zoom video and added subtitles.

You can find it at https://youtu.be/PK2yf-Hzr58

Best,

Tilo

On 16May, 2020, at 23:41, David Kurtz via groups.io <Davidwkurtz@...> wrote:

Matt & Cindy, thank you for a great meeting.  I happen to think this is an excellent way to stay in touch with the Amel community (I'm a new member as well).  My goal one of these days is to sail into La Rochelle on my Amel after crossing The Atlantic.  And perhaps as a future meeting, a tour of the Amel ship building facility would be really interesting.  And thanks also to Bill and Tilo for putting this together.

Regards,
Dave
--
Dave Kurtz
SM2 #380
S/V Celtic Cross

Detroit, Michigan