Date   

Re: Canvas

Paul Stascavage
 

Courtney

We had our whole Bimini replaced last November/December by topstitch. They did a good job. What is your email address and phone number?

I will try to get them to reach out to you.

All the Best,

Paul Stascavage
S/V Rita Kathryn SM #466

RitaKathryn.com

Currently Cruising Bahamas


Re: SM2K Genoa Jib Cart ANTAL 624.492/C Order pending in the US #replacement #spares #order

Ryan Meador
 

The "other amel owner" is likely us.  We ordered them from Euro Marine Trading about 2 weeks ago and delivery is expected in another week or so.  That's the same price we were quoted.  We're getting new genoa blocks as well (part 01201, $399/ea).

Ryan and Kelly
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA


On Fri, May 15, 2020 at 5:19 PM Michael & Robyn <SY_RIPPLE@...> wrote:
Greetings!
We are about to order spare ANTAL Genoa Jib Cart 624.492/C
it is a custom build version of http://www.antal.it/eng/624-492_en
We hear another AMEL owner is having an order pending too and we will get a good price approx. $360 per cart.
Anybody else interested to join the order?
--
Michael & Robyn

SY RIPPLE SM2K # 417
still in Brunswick, GA


SM2K Genoa Jib Cart ANTAL 624.492/C Order pending in the US #replacement #spares #order

Michael & Robyn
 

Greetings!
We are about to order spare ANTAL Genoa Jib Cart 624.492/C
it is a custom build version of http://www.antal.it/eng/624-492_en
We hear another AMEL owner is having an order pending too and we will get a good price approx. $360 per cart.
Anybody else interested to join the order?
--
Michael & Robyn

SY RIPPLE SM2K # 417
still in Brunswick, GA


Re: water pressure regulator adjustment

Ryan Meador
 

I gave the screw 1.5 turns in the "+" direction and our water pressure is now better than ever.

We still have the original AMFA pump, so the regulator probably makes a big difference.  When the pump dies, I'll probably replace a bunch of the fresh water system, but I'm going to keep it Amel-original as long as possible.

Ryan and Kelly
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA


On Wed, May 13, 2020 at 4:29 PM CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
That's original. I don't have any info. I think I would eliminate it, although it would be convenient to keep the pressure gauge. I think modern pumps regulate pressure good enough. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse 
Amel Owners Yacht School
+1 832-380-4970 | brouse@...
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com 
Yacht School Calendar: www.preparetocastoff.blogspot.com/p/calendar.html


   

On Wed, May 13, 2020, 3:19 PM Ryan Meador <ryan.d.meador@...> wrote:
Hi all,

Our boat has a device in the fresh water system just after the pump (photos attached) that I think is a pressure regulator.  It reads "Caleffi Mod Dep Cartridge With Filter".  I can't find an exact match online.  There's one old thread on this list that mentions it, and the owner thought it was an aftermarket addition.  It looks like it's original on at least some hulls!

Our water pressure has been slowly dropping for a couple months.  I suspect this regulator needs adjustment, or its integrated filter needs cleaning.  Do these things go out of calibration after a while?  Does anyone know how to open it to clean the filter?  I'd rather not twist the adjustment screw until I know more about it.

Thanks,

Ryan and Kelly
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA


Upcoming Event: Zoom Meeting Presentation of the Amel 50 from La Rochelle - Sat, 05/16/2020 20:00-21:00, Please RSVP #cal-reminder

main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Calendar <main@...>
 

Reminder: Zoom Meeting Presentation of the Amel 50 from La Rochelle

When: Saturday, 16 May 2020, 20:00 to 21:00, (GMT+00:00) UTC

Where:From La Rochelle, France aboard Amel 50 SPEED OF LIFE

An RSVP is requested. Click here to RSVP

Description:

Group members Matt & Cindy Salatino will present their brand new Amel 50 #27 "Speed of Life" from the Amel pontoon in La Rochelle. Matt and Cindy will give us a virtual tour during this presentation and answer your questions at the end of the presentation. Tilo Peters will administer the ZOOM meeting and I suspect that things will run smoothly and be enjoyed by all attending. If you cannot use ZOOM (highly recommended that you try), Tilo set up a YouTube Live stream: https://youtu.be/Ffks9eEkGG4The YouTube Live stream will likely be a bit off, as it seems to show my control view and not the speaker view that is normally transmitted via Zoom. Tilo will also record our meeting on YouTube which will be available 48-72 hours after the meeting. He will notify you when it is available.
 
   Direct link to Join the 16 May at 20:00 UTC - ZOOM Meeting https://epfl.zoom.us/j/98523568530
   Meeting ID: 985 2356 8530
   Join by SIP 98523568530@...

If you missed our first ZOOM meeting, you can view it on YouTube: https://youtu.be/7Mm1bbL-PaA. The first meeting was a test to understand the process. We did not have an expert guest speaker but we plan to have an expert guest speaker for most future meetings. I am currently working to line up experts for:
   Standing Rigging
   Sails 
   Refrigeration
   And more

Times for participation around the world.

       
Country GMT +/- Scheduled Time Scheduled Date
(GMT) 0 2000 5/16/2020
UK Summer Time 100 2100 5/16/2020
NZ 1200 800 5/17/2020
AU Queensland 1000 600 5/17/2020
Tahiti -1000 1000 5/16/2020
USA West DST -700 1300 5/16/2020
USA East DST -400 1600 5/16/2020
USA Central DST -500 1500 5/16/2020
Martinique -400 1600 5/16/2020
Germany 200 2200 5/16/2020
Central EU Summer Time 200 2200 5/16/2020
Note: The above was checked with: https://greenwichmeantime.com/time-gadgets/time-zone-converter/


Re: European SM 240V looking to plug in 240V US Marina

Ryan Meador
 

On our boat, we did mostly as Eric says, but connected blue to red and brown to black.  Since both of these wires are hot (120V with respect to ground, 240V with respect to each other), I don't think it matters which way you connect these two while on USA power.  If the boat or appliances aren't able to handle it, it will be dangerous either way.  Luckily, a stock Amel can handle it.

Being a USA-based boat, we have the USA 50A male connector on the end of our power cord.  When we were cruising in areas with European power, I built an adapter with a USA 50A female on one end and a European 32A male on the other (you have to plan ahead for this; I don't think any store on earth sells both connectors, not even in St Martin).  That way I can just plug it in and not have to rewire the connector every time we go to a different island.  You may want to consider something similar, except reversing the genders to preserve your European plug on the shore power cord.

We also had our shore power cord upgraded to handle 32A while we were in Le Marin.  The stock power cord is rated for 16A, I believe, despite the main breaker being rated for 32A (you can get the full 32A from the generator, but not from shore).  When you're adding the breaker in the aft locker (highly recommended), you want to size it for the rating of your cord, not the main breaker.  Even better would be adding the breaker inline in the adapter so it protects the entire length of the cord, but that seems harder to implement.

Ryan and Kelly
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA


On Thu, May 14, 2020 at 9:01 PM Craig & Katherine Briggs SN 68 Sangaris Tropic Isle Harbor, FL via groups.io <sangaris=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
and, of course, do note that you will be getting US 60 Hz, not European 50 Hz.


Re: Hot Water Heater Power Consumption

Stephen Davis
 

Good idea. It’s been 5 years since replacement, so would not be surprised if the element is toast. 


Re: Hot Water Heater Power Consumption

Stephen Davis
 

Thanks Bill...looks like an engine room day!


Re: Mizzen furler gearbox, A54 peculiarity?

Sv Garulfo
 

Thanks Randall,

I will attempt to watch the video but I doubt the bandwidth here will allow that...

Further to Mohammad’s question, did you find a bearing inside or delrin balls like Gary described? 
As far as I can see through the horizontal shaft opening, there is a vertical element (consistent with the diagram in Gary’s document) that is supposed to be on a set of derlin balls at the bottom of the housing, but mine does not rotate at all. 

Clearly the gearing housing is not waterproof and without drains it will inevitably fill with dirt and water up to the attachment bolts. The bushing is then halfway soaked in that and the aluminium/stainless steel interface between the gearshaft and the winch handle socket attachment will corrode. The oxidation on the aluminium shaft will slowlly increase the friction to the bushing. The gears are moving freely otherwise. 

So, drill for drain or not? 


Thanks
Thomas

GARULFO 
A54-122
Tahuata, French Polynesia 




On Thu, 14 May 2020 at 10:11, Randall <sailingalbedo@...> wrote:
Thomas,
I removed disassembled and cleaned my mizzen outhaul last fall. You don't need to drop sail. The issue will be in the Delrin bushings that become very stiff. I have attached 2 pictures of my work. The bearings are not to be lubed/greased. I used a cheap homemade tool to unscrew the bottom. 2cm square bar 2 drill holes straight through, put the drill bits in so the solid end goes into the bottom of the furler, with furler in a vice. Worked great. 
I finished and put on a video from a fellow Amel owner who did the same job. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EB67b2hK-kA&t=657s
They do the job at 8.02 of the video. If you need more info let me know. Use the bar not the saw.
Cheers.
 
Randall
A54 #56
Gibraltar



On Wed, May 13, 2020 at 6:50 PM Sv Garulfo <svgarulfo@...> wrote:
Hi all,

In the great document by Gary Silver about the overhaul of the SM Mizzen furler gearbox (thanks Arno for sending us a low bandwidth friendly version), it is mentioned that the bottom part of the gearbox housing is drilled with 2 holes that are used to both unscrew that part (with great efforts) and drain the gearbox of liquids. 

As our gearbox got stiffer recently, I removed it and it appears that those 2 holes are not through openings.. thus not acting as drains. And the gearbox was full of rainwater up to the attachment bolts. Arno tells me he saw the same. 
So the teflon bushing got very dirty and stiff with all sorts of deposits. 

Does anybody know why the drains are no longer machined through? Is it an A54 “innovation”? 
It doesn’t really make sense and I’m thinking of drilling those holes all the way through to reinstate the drain. Any word of advice against that idea?

Thanks for your input

Best, 


Thomas
GARULFO 
A54-122
Tahuata, French Polynesia 



Canvas

Courtney Gorman
 

Hi all while I’m holed up in Brunswick it’s time for me to have the soft part of my dodger remade any suggestions of someone who does good canvas work in the area I have tried in vain to get a hold of topstitch out of Jacksonville so someone knows somebody local that’s good I would appreciate the info
Cheers
Courtney
Trippin
54 #101
Brunswick


Re: Mainsail manual furler lubricant

Craig Briggs
 
Edited

Hey Kent and Iris - welcome back to America!

As Robbie Burns wrote, "The best laid schemes o' Mice an' Men Gang aft agley" 
- sounds like you're one of many with cruising plans changed due to C-19. Hopefully you'll be able to get out there in the not-too-distant future.

Regarding your furler gearboxes, there's a thread from 2016 you can search for more discussion, but Bonfiglioli ships their's with Shell Tivela S320 and calls it "lifetime" lubrication, with a 25,000 hour life. There are many equivalent Industrial Synthetic gear oils out there that a google search will bring up. 

That being said, our application with infrequent short duration use really doesn't demand the hi-tech oil.  Perhaps more importantly, the harsh environment with risk of sea water intrusion past the lip seals may argue for the addition of Zerk fittings enabling frequent greasing that many of us have done. That you've had years with no water intrusion is great so you may want to choose to continue as is - no "right" answer.

Cheers,
Craig - if the Covid subsides we may scoot up your way - will let you know.


Re: Mizzen furler gearbox, A54 peculiarity?

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Thank you Randall for the detailed explanation.

 

Happy Sailing;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

AMEL 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Randall via groups.io
Sent: Friday, May 15, 2020 3:28 AM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Mizzen furler gearbox, A54 peculiarity?

 

Hello Mohammad and Aty,

 

Were you able to simply untwist the bottom cap of the furler assembly with the tool you sketched

Unbolt the furler from the foil, I used the uphaul to raise the foil enough to clear furler. Remove 2 bolts that hold furler to the mast.

Then you will need a sturdy vice and a form of wrap to protect the aluminium casing from the vice teeth.

 

First loosen the bottom, counter clockwise. Just a turn or two.

Then remove the cranking shaft, (keeping the cracking shaft in the furler, while loosening in the bottom, just helps hold the furler while loosening the bottom.)

Then finish removing the bottom. Caution first set of bearings are under the bottom cap.

 

The tool I showed was a square metal bar with two holes. The holes are the same spacing as the furler holes. The drill bits are the same size and simply use the bottom of the drill bits through the bar, and that will give you the ability to undo the end cap counter clockwise, and still have the two drill bits for future use.

 

All that was required was to clean everything inside? Were you able to reuse the bearing?

The bearings are dry, the same as in your travelers. I simply cleaned them and put them back in, no grease. They were very coated in salt, but not damaged.

The main issue was the Delrin/plastic inserts for the crank. After very carefully removing the Delrin, I cleaned and as I recall used some lithium grease on the gear shaft.

If I had to guess, the grease may not have been needed. 

 

 

Any other parts or lubrications needed?

If the mizzen is only stiff this can be done in a short time. I have attached the problem area picture and one from Bill Rouse showing the Delrin. I believe this is from his book, showing the Delrin pieces, there are two.

Also the holes in my furlers bottom did go straight through to give drainage as you can see in the teardown picture.

The hole project should only be time and some white grease.

Reassembly had only one puzzle ring moment! When you go to put the upper bearings in, push the internal mechanism in to a point you can just fit the upper bearings in then the rest will be easy.

 

Hope that helps,

Randall

 

On Thu, May 14, 2020 at 10:46 PM Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> wrote:

Hi Randall;

 

Although our “temporary” fix of spraying CorrosionX in the furler has lasted over 4 years and the furler is still very smooth, it has been on our list to service the unit, once we figure out how to get into it. I have a few questions that I would appreciate your response on:

 

  1. Were you able to simply untwist the bottom cap of the furler assembly with the tool you sketched?
  2. All that was required was to clean everything inside?
  3. Were you able to reuse the bearing?
  4. Any other parts or lubrications needed?

 

Thanks for providing this very useful information and sharing your experience.

 

Happy Sailing;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

AMEL 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Randall via groups.io
Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2020 12:41 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Mizzen furler gearbox, A54 peculiarity?

 

Thomas,

I removed disassembled and cleaned my mizzen outhaul last fall. You don't need to drop sail. The issue will be in the Delrin bushings that become very stiff. I have attached 2 pictures of my work. The bearings are not to be lubed/greased. I used a cheap homemade tool to unscrew the bottom. 2cm square bar 2 drill holes straight through, put the drill bits in so the solid end goes into the bottom of the furler, with furler in a vice. Worked great. 

I finished and put on a video from a fellow Amel owner who did the same job. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EB67b2hK-kA&t=657s

They do the job at 8.02 of the video. If you need more info let me know. Use the bar not the saw.

Cheers.

 

Randall

A54 #56

Gibraltar

 

 

 

On Wed, May 13, 2020 at 6:50 PM Sv Garulfo <svgarulfo@...> wrote:

Hi all,

 

In the great document by Gary Silver about the overhaul of the SM Mizzen furler gearbox (thanks Arno for sending us a low bandwidth friendly version), it is mentioned that the bottom part of the gearbox housing is drilled with 2 holes that are used to both unscrew that part (with great efforts) and drain the gearbox of liquids. 

 

As our gearbox got stiffer recently, I removed it and it appears that those 2 holes are not through openings.. thus not acting as drains. And the gearbox was full of rainwater up to the attachment bolts. Arno tells me he saw the same. 

So the teflon bushing got very dirty and stiff with all sorts of deposits. 

 

Does anybody know why the drains are no longer machined through? Is it an A54 “innovation”? 

It doesn’t really make sense and I’m thinking of drilling those holes all the way through to reinstate the drain. Any word of advice against that idea?

 

Thanks for your input

 

Best, 

 

 

Thomas

GARULFO 

A54-122

Tahuata, French Polynesia 

 

 


Mainsail manual furler lubricant

karkauai
 

Hi all,
I hope everyone is staying healthy and enjoying where ever you are locked down.

Iris and I were headed to Panama when everything shut down. After 2 weeks in Antigua and no end in sight, we sailed back to St Michaels, MD. We had to heave-to 3 times to wait for fronts to pass with 30+ kt N winds before we could get across the Gulf Stream. 17-day passage, counting hove-to time.

We are home again and I am working on some previously neglected items.  I've removed the manual furler from the main sail foil to find the foil's circumference about 30% eroded by the bolt.  Thanks for the heads-up on that issue.
The gearbox was a little stiff, so I've disassembled it for cleaning and replacing the seals.  Pat (Shenanigans) did a nice write-up which Bill R has reproduced in his book. Thanks!

After 20 years, the gearbox was in great shape with no water intrusion, and no leakage of lubricant out of the gearbox. It was full of a lubricant that is much thinner than grease, but thicket than motor oil.  Does anyone know what lubricant was used?

Thanks for any insight.
Kent and Iris
Kristy
SM 243


Need everyone's help

 

Please read this, but it is not necessary to respond.

We have a small problem that can be a big problem if you happen to be cruising the world and have limited bandwidth. 

Some of our members are cruising the world with limited bandwidth and choose the "digest version" to receive all postings. The digest version allows them to browse the SUBJECT/TOPIC of postings, then download that posting of interest.

We all are guilty (me too) of not respecting the SUBJECT/TOPIC and posting a question or answer that has nothing to do with the actual SUBJECT/TOPIC. The Moderators and I have the tools to SPLIT the SUBJECT/TOPIC, but we are not paying attention (me included).

I am asking everyone to please help those that are at distant places in the world with low bandwidths...a place that I wish I was NOW! Please respect the SUBJECT/TOPIC. if you read a posting and it reminds you to ask about something different, simply compose a new email from your registered email address To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io with the appropriate SUBJECT/TOPIC...it is that easy. And, Moderators, help me with this one.

--
 
Best,
 
CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970


Re: Hot Water Heater Power Consumption

Thomas Kleman
 

Hey neighbor- before replacing it I would take the heating element out,  clean the contact points and check the wiring connections  (assume it's a Basic 40, so pretty easy). You'll see immediately if it can be saved. Mine had a similar symptom. 

Tom and Kirstin
SM2K 422 L'ORIENT
Ko Olina Marina Oahu


Re: Hot Water Heater Power Consumption

 

Steve,

I have not experienced that, but wouldn't corrosion on the thermostat contacts result in something similar. I would check the thermostat.
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Thu, May 14, 2020 at 10:33 PM Stephen Davis <flyboyscd@...> wrote:

The hot water heater on my SM is working normally except for one detail. Normally, when the heater is heating water it draws a little over 3 amps AC. When the water is hot, it usually draws 0 amps until it goes into a heating cycle again. Now, it seems to always have a background power draw of about .75 amps. What I’m wondering is if this means the heating element is partly degraded, but not to the point of popping the breaker yet. 

Have any of you experienced this symptom, and should I just changed the element now, or could there be a different problem. I’d much prefer to change the element now than enroute to Alaska in a few weeks, but don’t want to do it at all if that is not the problem. Any thoughts on the subject would be greatly appreciated. 


Aloha,
Steve Davis
Aloha SM 72
Ko Olina, Hawaii


Re: Mizzen furler gearbox, A54 peculiarity?

Randall Walker
 

Hello Mohammad and Aty,

Were you able to simply untwist the bottom cap of the furler assembly with the tool you sketched
Unbolt the furler from the foil, I used the uphaul to raise the foil enough to clear furler. Remove 2 bolts that hold furler to the mast.
Then you will need a sturdy vice and a form of wrap to protect the aluminium casing from the vice teeth.

First loosen the bottom, counter clockwise. Just a turn or two.
Then remove the cranking shaft, (keeping the cracking shaft in the furler, while loosening in the bottom, just helps hold the furler while loosening the bottom.)
Then finish removing the bottom. Caution first set of bearings are under the bottom cap.

The tool I showed was a square metal bar with two holes. The holes are the same spacing as the furler holes. The drill bits are the same size and simply use the bottom of the drill bits through the bar, and that will give you the ability to undo the end cap counter clockwise, and still have the two drill bits for future use.

All that was required was to clean everything inside? Were you able to reuse the bearing?
The bearings are dry, the same as in your travelers. I simply cleaned them and put them back in, no grease. They were very coated in salt, but not damaged.
The main issue was the Delrin/plastic inserts for the crank. After very carefully removing the Delrin, I cleaned and as I recall used some lithium grease on the gear shaft.
If I had to guess, the grease may not have been needed. 


Any other parts or lubrications needed?
If the mizzen is only stiff this can be done in a short time. I have attached the problem area picture and one from Bill Rouse showing the Delrin. I believe this is from his book, showing the Delrin pieces, there are two.
Also the holes in my furlers bottom did go straight through to give drainage as you can see in the teardown picture.
The hole project should only be time and some white grease.
Reassembly had only one puzzle ring moment! When you go to put the upper bearings in, push the internal mechanism in to a point you can just fit the upper bearings in then the rest will be easy.

Hope that helps,
Randall

On Thu, May 14, 2020 at 10:46 PM Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> wrote:

Hi Randall;

 

Although our “temporary” fix of spraying CorrosionX in the furler has lasted over 4 years and the furler is still very smooth, it has been on our list to service the unit, once we figure out how to get into it. I have a few questions that I would appreciate your response on:

 

  1. Were you able to simply untwist the bottom cap of the furler assembly with the tool you sketched?
  2. All that was required was to clean everything inside?
  3. Were you able to reuse the bearing?
  4. Any other parts or lubrications needed?

 

Thanks for providing this very useful information and sharing your experience.

 

Happy Sailing;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

AMEL 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Randall via groups.io
Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2020 12:41 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Mizzen furler gearbox, A54 peculiarity?

 

Thomas,

I removed disassembled and cleaned my mizzen outhaul last fall. You don't need to drop sail. The issue will be in the Delrin bushings that become very stiff. I have attached 2 pictures of my work. The bearings are not to be lubed/greased. I used a cheap homemade tool to unscrew the bottom. 2cm square bar 2 drill holes straight through, put the drill bits in so the solid end goes into the bottom of the furler, with furler in a vice. Worked great. 

I finished and put on a video from a fellow Amel owner who did the same job. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EB67b2hK-kA&t=657s

They do the job at 8.02 of the video. If you need more info let me know. Use the bar not the saw.

Cheers.

 

Randall

A54 #56

Gibraltar

 

 

 

On Wed, May 13, 2020 at 6:50 PM Sv Garulfo <svgarulfo@...> wrote:

Hi all,

 

In the great document by Gary Silver about the overhaul of the SM Mizzen furler gearbox (thanks Arno for sending us a low bandwidth friendly version), it is mentioned that the bottom part of the gearbox housing is drilled with 2 holes that are used to both unscrew that part (with great efforts) and drain the gearbox of liquids. 

 

As our gearbox got stiffer recently, I removed it and it appears that those 2 holes are not through openings.. thus not acting as drains. And the gearbox was full of rainwater up to the attachment bolts. Arno tells me he saw the same. 

So the teflon bushing got very dirty and stiff with all sorts of deposits. 

 

Does anybody know why the drains are no longer machined through? Is it an A54 “innovation”? 

It doesn’t really make sense and I’m thinking of drilling those holes all the way through to reinstate the drain. Any word of advice against that idea?

 

Thanks for your input

 

Best, 

 

 

Thomas

GARULFO 

A54-122

Tahuata, French Polynesia 

 

 


Re: sonic speed on SM 2000

Stefan Jeukendrup
 

Hi Marco,


Transducers will be filled with moisture over time, especially without the rubber cap.
You can measure the resistance: disconnect the transducer from the Sonic Speed box.
It should be 110 kilo ohm +-1% between red and black, infinite ohms to the screen.

Did the exchange job 2 months ago.
*. Aft transducer on the keel        :   translucent hose in the locker near the washing machine/freezer
* Forward transducer on the hull :   grey pipe under the seat near the bathroom bulkhead
See the 2 pictures:

Procedure:
Detach ALL tie-wraps from the black transducer cables in the pipes to the Sonic Speed control box in the small cupboard
* firmly solder long extension cables to the old transducer cable ends
* drill holes in the center of the old transducers, fit self tapping screw
* pull the screw while someone inside the boat feeds the extended cable into the pipe
* important: leave the extended part of the cable in the pipe because you will use it to pull the new sensor in!
* clean and lubricate the pipe end where the transducer sits in the hull e.g. silicone grease.
* solder a new sensor to the extension cable and pull the new sensor in while someone at the other end of the pipe gently pulls the cables in.

I did the last point with the boat in the water as both pipes end  well above the waterline.

My transducers are B&G part number 184-00-076/FI.

Good luck, this is less daunting than it looks....


Stefan Jeukendrup
sv Malaka Queen SM2k  #348 @Monastir





Hot Water Heater Power Consumption

Stephen Davis
 

The hot water heater on my SM is working normally except for one detail. Normally, when the heater is heating water it draws a little over 3 amps AC. When the water is hot, it usually draws 0 amps until it goes into a heating cycle again. Now, it seems to always have a background power draw of about .75 amps. What I’m wondering is if this means the heating element is partly degraded, but not to the point of popping the breaker yet. 

Have any of you experienced this symptom, and should I just changed the element now, or could there be a different problem. I’d much prefer to change the element now than enroute to Alaska in a few weeks, but don’t want to do it at all if that is not the problem. Any thoughts on the subject would be greatly appreciated. 


Aloha,
Steve Davis
Aloha SM 72
Ko Olina, Hawaii


Re: Replacement of carpets in SM

Mark Erdos
 

Alexander,

 

Sorry I cannot help with a dealer in France but I do have a little bit of insight for your project.

 

About 4 years ago we replaced all the carpeting in Cream Puff for under US$500.00. We were fortunate to find a marine carpet dealer near the boat and made a side trip one day to visit their store. We took samples from them and opted for a grayish/brown berber marine quality carpet.

 

The marine quality is very similar to outdoor carpet as it has a backing. The soft rubber backing is perfect for a boat. It is sticky enough to stay in place and not slide. It is not too sticky that you cannot remove it to access panels in the floor. Our carpet was made by Shaw and had a NuWave back.

 

We ordered a 10’ long piece of 12’ wide carpet. This was ample to replace all the carpet and make some door mats.

 

This is where we purchased ours: https://marinecarpeting.com/

 

 

PORT OF CALL by Shaw - Berber Carpet w/ NuWave Backing - 12' Wide x Various Lengths

Colors

Dunes

Lengths and Pricing

12' x 10'

BERBNUWAVE

1

$365.00

Subtotal

$365.00

 

Our price included delivery to the dock.

 

Check hardware store new you for outdoor carpeting. If you buy from a “marine” supplier, it’ll cost a lot more. You can buy a small piece at first and see how it works. It will need to have a non-slip backing so you can walk on it when underway without it sliding.

 

For the binding rather than send it out to a place with a machine, we found adhesive carpet binding and did it ourselves. We used the old carpet for templates, cut the new carpet with a pair of large workshop scissors and then cut and applied the binding. The entire project took a day to complete.

 

To do all the carpets you will need 100’ of binding. Here is the binding we used:

 

Item

Sku

Qty

Subtotal

Instabind Regular Binding, Per Linear Ft

Color

100 x Grey 39422

IB-RB-XX

100

$125.00

Subtotal

$125.00

Shipping & Handling

$11.35

Grand Total

$136.35

 

Here is a link to the store where we purchased it: https://www.tools4flooring.com/instabind-regular-binding-per-linear-ft-p-948.html

The link above has a video about how to install the adhesive binding. It is pretty easy to do. It takes two people (for the glue gun bit)

 

Our new carpet has held up really well and we can remover carpet when needed to wash it gently with our power washer. I have attach a couple of pictures.

 

Hope this helps and good luck with your project.

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Alexander Schenk via groups.io
Sent: Monday, May 11, 2020 8:19 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Replacement of carpets in SM

 

Hello,

 

We are looking at replacing our carpets (al cleaning efforts did not pay out) and would like to know if anybody has any good tips on this. Preferably a supplier in Northern France, as our boat is currently located in Roscoff, Britany.

 

Best

Alexander Schenk

SM #231 - Antinea

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