Date   
Parasailor on A54

Scott SV Tengah
 

Hi all,

I just purchased a used Parasailor (169sq meters) for my A54 and had a bit of trouble flying it the first time, going dead downwind. With our rolling, the Parasail tacks/foot area was chafing against the rolled up Genoa as it rolled with the swell and when we tried to ease the sheets/guys to fly it out further forward, the Parasailor rose up rather than going further forward.

Per the suggestion of the seller, another A54 owner, for DDW I ran the port/starboard guys to the Genoa car, which was positioned as far forward as possible. The guy lines then went to the staysail turning block and then the big cockpit winches. The sheets went directly from the Parasailor clews to the Genoa turning blocks and then the small cockpit winches. 

I believe a solution would be to run the guy lines down to the bow roller area, which is what the attached official Parasailor instructions specify. Now the question is where on the A54. On the attached photo of my bow area, I believe a solution would be to put two blocks on the ring that I'm holding, circled in red. That ring is attached via webbing to two shackles to the bow roller. Normally I attach the code zero furler to that and it works great. Perhaps with this solution, I can jibe the Parasailor as per the attached instructions. Thoughts?

Another idea I'm less excited about is to attach it to the liferails. When I purchased the boat, the previous owner had two blocks attached to the little welded loops far forward on the life rails, circled in blue - what he used them for, I'm not sure. And well, his English isn't great, so difficult to ask. My thinking is that these welded loops are definitely not strong enough and even if I attached the blocks to the forward end of the life rails, I'm not sure the whole life rail assembly and attachment system is strong enough.

The final solution is what Dmitris (Alma Libre Too) did which is have a bow roller extension added. I don't like that solution as I use the bow roller for the anchor rode snubber and also attachment lines for mooring balls, as you can see in this photo from our current location in Bonaire. A bow roller extension would interfere with these lines as the boat rotates.

I have how seen Ashia, an SM2K did it, but I don't think we can attach directly to the shackles at the bottom of the webbing strop you see in the photo, as that may rub on the teak bow seat. I read Joerg's post about it but perhaps he and others can chime in on how they would do it on my setup?

Thanks all!

--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

Re: Bow Thruster on 54

Aras <aras.grinius@...>
 

I had to replace mine and I looked at those . I went to McMaster-Carr and selected one that 12 mm

Aras
Sv Fiasco #163 Sharki

Re: Customs Form?

Duane Siegfri
 

John,

Customs was another issue.  The Government employees are on strike here in Martinique, including Customs.  Since I didn't clear the equipment out of Martinique, I'm going to have it shipped to St. Martin instead.  Doug would have been a great resource.

Happy Holidays!
Duane

Corrosion on stainless

Duane Siegfri
 

In both heads there is a small bar with three hooks next to the sinks.  These have pitting due to corrosion.  I checked and they are not magnetic, so I thought they might be solid stainless rather than chrome.  I started to sand with some fine wet/dry and went right through the shiny stuff to what appears to be brass colored metal.  I suppose I'll just buy some spray paint labeled "chrome" but thought I would check to see what others here might have done.

I have the same pitting on the head door hinges and the "strong points" in the cockpit for the harness tether.  Does anyone know if the harness tether strong point is solid stainless?  I would hate to start sanding them to find they are chrome plated bronze.

Duane
Wanderer, SM#477

Re: Corrosion X on stainless question

Porter McRoberts
 

That’s a great way to go for sure. Get all the funk out. Thanks JPG!! Glad we’re still upright!!!!

Have a good Haulout yourself.

Porter.

Excuse the errors.
Sent from my IPhone
Www.fouribis.com

On Dec 21, 2019, at 2:55 PM, Germain Jean-Pierre <jp.germain45@...> wrote:

Not a metallurgist but FYI, we use a pressure washer and fresh water to clean out the lowers.

We’ve had some strong winds. Walked through the yard and Ibis is fully secured with no slack on any of the stands.

Merry Christmas to all ou youse

JP Germain
Eleuthera SM 007
On 22/12/2019, at 2:28 AM, Porter McRoberts via Groups.Io <portermcroberts=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

A question if you would re Corosion X and Stainless.

I am, as likely many are on this forum, a fan of Corrosion X. It has proven invaluable in he last couple of years on he boat. So using the “if it’s good here it must be good everywhere logic”, and knowing one of the problem areas of rigging is the lower swages we sprayed it into the open swages before we left the boat to displace moisture and hopefully deter water ingress there. But now I’m thinking about the nature of stainless steel and the metal’s, for lack of a better understanding, need for oxygen exposure. Perhaps I didn’t do the right thing. Any thoughts on this matter? Any metallurgists out there?

Many thanks

Porter McRoberts
S/V IBIS A54-152



Re: Corrosion X on stainless question

Germain Jean-Pierre
 

Not a metallurgist but FYI, we use a pressure washer and fresh water to clean out the lowers.

We’ve had some strong winds. Walked through the yard and Ibis is fully secured with no slack on any of the stands.

Merry Christmas to all ou youse

JP Germain
Eleuthera SM 007

On 22/12/2019, at 2:28 AM, Porter McRoberts via Groups.Io <portermcroberts=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

A question if you would re Corosion X and Stainless.

I am, as likely many are on this forum, a fan of Corrosion X. It has proven invaluable in he last couple of years on he boat. So using the “if it’s good here it must be good everywhere logic”, and knowing one of the problem areas of rigging is the lower swages we sprayed it into the open swages before we left the boat to displace moisture and hopefully deter water ingress there. But now I’m thinking about the nature of stainless steel and the metal’s, for lack of a better understanding, need for oxygen exposure. Perhaps I didn’t do the right thing. Any thoughts on this matter? Any metallurgists out there?

Many thanks

Porter McRoberts
S/V IBIS A54-152


Corrosion X on stainless question

Porter McRoberts
 

A question if you would re Corosion X and Stainless.

I am, as likely many are on this forum, a fan of Corrosion X. It has proven invaluable in he last couple of years on he boat. So using the “if it’s good here it must be good everywhere logic”, and knowing one of the problem areas of rigging is the lower swages we sprayed it into the open swages before we left the boat to displace moisture and hopefully deter water ingress there. But now I’m thinking about the nature of stainless steel and the metal’s, for lack of a better understanding, need for oxygen exposure. Perhaps I didn’t do the right thing. Any thoughts on this matter? Any metallurgists out there?

Many thanks

Porter McRoberts
S/V IBIS A54-152

Re: Boatwide Power Loss

Andy Croney
 

Good to hear you have solved the issue Dennis ,
Thanks for sharing- will check whether we also have the fuse ...!!
Merry Caribbean Christmas
Andy
Maramu Paladin #75

Re: Raymarine Autopilot

Duane Siegfri
 

Hi Tom,

Thanks for the details on your new autopilot, very helpful. 

We were docked right next to your boat at Caraibe Greement while we were getting a new rig.  I hope we do get a chance to get together, but we will probably have moved on by then. 

Duane

Boatwide Power Loss

sbmesasailor
 

For any of you who were interested in my inquiry (several weeks ago) about total power loss on my Maramu when a loose alternator cable shorted out, I solved the problem.  I wasn't in any hurry as it's winter in Santa Barbara and after several years sailing between the 20th parallels I've become a warm weather sailor, so my diagnosis was spread out over several days.  At any rate, in case anyone else has a similar event, check your main house battery switch terminals.  I had a 300A fuse on the red cable terminal that blew.  An $8 fix -whew.  Now I got to get that alternator re-installed....

Dennis Johns
Libertad
Maramu #121

Re: Mango aft cabin bulkhead?

rob dillmann
 

Dear Daniel,

Our Mango has an aft cabin bulkhead with watertight door. No stern aft lazarette though, just a smaller locker on the port side.

Best regards,
Rob Dillmann
Westwind Mango nr 43

Verstuurd vanaf mijn iPhone

Op 20 dec. 2019 om 01:24 heeft Daniel Alexander Thompson <Thompson.Xander@...> het volgende geschreven:

Would gratefully receive any replies. 

1. Do the Mangos have an aft cabin door bulkhead like the SM does. 

2 Do the Mangos have a watertight lazarette stern collision compartment?

Best wishes

Re: Mango aft cabin bulkhead?

Alan Ogilvie
 

Hi,
1. Yes there is a full watertight bulkhead door between aft cabin and passage way forward as in a SM. 

2. the lazarette at stern is probably half the width of the stern more to port, but there is therefore a significant part of stern without a water tight lazarette crash zone.

hope that helps

alan
Gorodish
Mango nr 52
about to leave Grand Canaria for Caribbean 

Mango aft cabin bulkhead?

Daniel Alexander Thompson
 

Would gratefully receive any replies. 

1. Do the Mangos have an aft cabin door bulkhead like the SM does. 

2 Do the Mangos have a watertight lazarette stern collision compartment?

Best wishes

Re: Customs Form?

John Clark
 

Hi Duane,
  direct answer to your question is I don't know, and don't think you need one for a part you already own.   But....I suggest you inquire at Douglas Yacht Services. (DYS)  Doug Rapier is a French Customs agent (speaks english) and is familiar with the issues facing yachties.    His office is near the pizza ...well used to be pizza I think it is Brazilian steak now ...anyway near Mango Bay Restaurant and Carib Marine.  I am sure he can point you int he right direction at least.

             Regards,  John Clark

SV Annie  SM #37
Brunswick GA

On Thu, Dec 19, 2019 at 9:55 AM Duane Siegfri via Groups.Io <carlylelk=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
I'm at the Fedex office in Martinique, and they tell me I need a US Customs form that requires my boat info to send a part back to the USA.  Does anyone know where I would get the form on the internet?

Thanks,
Duane
Wanderer, SM#477

Re: Customs Form?

Duane Siegfri
 

The Commercial Invoice form?  That requires a Tax ID number and other information geared toward a business sale.  Am I missing something?

By the way i failed to note we're sending the part back for repair.

Thanks,
Duane

Re: Customs Form?

galacsea galacsea
 

They are supposed to give to you as kit is available on their own website.
See below:
https://www.fedex.com/en-us/shipping/international/create-documents.html?cmp=KNC-1001816-11-10-950-1110000-US-US-EN-NBZ0001Z01ZINTL&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIgO_VtJrC5gIVhZOzCh2W0A9uEAAYASAAEgJ82vD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Re: Raymarine Autopilot

Thomas Peacock
 

Hi Duane,

Lots of good suggestions on trouble-shooting your bad AH. We had major problems with the non-mechanical part of the system, and decided to replace, keeping the Raymarine AH drives by the rudder and in front of the wheel. 

The Raymarine ACU-400 was a very simple plug and play solution. The computer fit in nicely above the galley sink near the AH that drives the wheel. A new fluxgate (actually, part compass, part inertial guidance) unit fits in well behind the dining settee, similar to the old unit. The cockpit display/control is a standard size display similar to the depth/wind gauges. Your call as to where to put it. 
I made the mistake of not replacing the old rudder sensor, as it appeared identical to the new one. However, there were some control issues with it that then disappeared when I replaced it with the new rudder sensor. 
The ACU-400 does allow for 12V clutch operation.
You will have to run proprietary Raymarine networking in order to connect the fluxgate, computer, and display; the Raymarine network easily interfaces with NMEA-2000.

I see you are in Martinique. My boat is in the marina in Le Marin, I am returning January 11 if you are still around.

Tom Peacock
SM #240 Aletes
Martinique 

On Dec 18, 2019, at 8:49 PM, Duane Siegfri via Groups.Io <carlylelk@...> wrote:

Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't each drive have a clutch?  Our boat has two drive units, a linear and a rotary.  We have the same error for both drives so I doubt that both clutches / drives failed simultaneously.

The clutch works when the "Auto" button is engaged since you cannot turn the wheel.  I connected the "Power" wires directly with the "Motor" wires outside of the Course Computer and the motor ran.  So both the clutch and motor is operable.  The problem is when "Auto" is engaged, no voltage is being sent to the "Motor" wires.  Dan Gerhardt replied to me already and I'm sending him the Course Computer tomorrow.  I'll let y'all know what happens.

Again, thanks for all the thoughtful replies!
Duane

Screw at filter. ZF25. Gearbox

Arthur Sundqvist
 

I just can not move the filterscrew on filtertop at my ZF25 gearbox. The top plate will crack if I put möte power. I want to change the filter.....
Has Anyone has this issue????
fair winds
arthyr sundqvist
sm435
vista

Customs Form?

Duane Siegfri
 

I'm at the Fedex office in Martinique, and they tell me I need a US Customs form that requires my boat info to send a part back to the USA.  Does anyone know where I would get the form on the internet?

Thanks,
Duane
Wanderer, SM#477

Re: Dripless shaft seal

James Alton
 

Arlo,

I am glad to hear that you have found a solution that you are happy with. Best of luck with the new SS shaft and the Lasdrop gen11 seal, it sounds like an interesting design. Maybe if you think about it, let us know how this worked out for you in the future. For now I will stay with the original bronze box and teflon packing since the maintenance in my case has been very minimal and I think the system is well proven and safe. I am curious if the reduction on friction in going from a traditional stuffing box to a seal could have any noticeable effect on fuel consumption, that might be a plus in going with a seal type unit over traditional packing. I also wonder which is better for stainless shaft, the seal or the packing in regards to crevice corrosion. I have seen more than a few SS shafts that had pitting which may have been related to the Graphite packing that was used in those cases. So far the boxes packed with the Teflon only (sometimes the Graphite is added to the Teflon) that I have maintained have not shown any pitting.

Best,

James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220