Date   

Re: SM Turnbuckle

Gary Silver
 

Hi John:

5 years ago I replaced the standing rigging on my SM Hull #335 using an ACMO supplied "kit".  ACMO was a pleasure to work with, shipped promptly, packaged and handled the supplied materials well, and the rigging fit perfectly.  However, the quality of this kit did not match the original ACMO rigging that was on the boat when we purchased her new in 2001.  That original Chrome was pristine and shinny nearly to the end of it's 15 years before we replaced the standing rigging.  Also, I never had any rust on the SS wire of the shrouds and stays until that 2015 replacement.  

When the ACMO replacement kit came, we noticed that some of the chrome seemed "thin" and there was scoring on some of the swages from either a dirty or damaged swaging tool used by ACMO.  The replacement was completed as we didn't have much choice in our schedule and the riggers assured me these were only cosmetic issues, not structural.  The wire cable has been rusting ever since, this despite my extra efforts to hose down the cable up to half the mast height.  There isn't any pitting that I can see using 10 X magnification (aviation standard) of the cable, just a continual patina of rust that runs down and stains things if not kept up with.  The chrome plating on the turnbuckles has mostly failed in that the turnbuckles appear dull and appear similar or worse than your picture.  

I know enough about metallurgy to know that it is partially science and a lot of "art".  I can only surmise that ACMO's supplier's metallurgy is suspect.  There is no excuse for the scoring on the swages, that is just poor workmanship and or poor quality control.   I have been tempted to call-out ACMO on these issues but have convinced myself that doing so would be fruitless and that "it is only cosmetic and not structural".  When it comes time to re-rig however, I will seriously consider going with a different vendor although there are pitfalls of doing so.  Perhaps I should have been more pro-active with ACMO when I last re-rigged.  I dislike those (like me in this case) that complain and don't do anything about it.  If I were to re-rig with ACMO I would include a contractural stipulation that receipt of the materials and final payment would be based upon inspection for quality. 

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 # 335
Puerto Rico


Re: Mainsail manual furler lubricant

karkauai
 

Thanks Craig.  As great as it looks after 20 years, I'll try the gear oil again.

We may sail up to Maine in July/Aug if Iris' new capn&crew are working out OK and the post-covid season allows.

Hope to see you before or after that.

Hi to Katherine.
Kent & Iris
Kristy
SM243

On May 15, 2020 11:27 AM, "karkauai via groups.io" <karkauai@...> wrote:
Hi all,
I hope everyone is staying healthy and enjoying where ever you are locked down.

Iris and I were headed to Panama when everything shut down. After 2 weeks in Antigua and no end in sight, we sailed back to St Michaels, MD. We had to heave-to 3 times to wait for fronts to pass with 30+ kt N winds before we could get across the Gulf Stream. 17-day passage, counting hove-to time.

We are home again and I am working on some previously neglected items.  I've removed the manual furler from the main sail foil to find the foil's circumference about 30% eroded by the bolt.  Thanks for the heads-up on that issue.
The gearbox was a little stiff, so I've disassembled it for cleaning and replacing the seals.  Pat (Shenanigans) did a nice write-up which Bill R has reproduced in his book. Thanks!

After 20 years, the gearbox was in great shape with no water intrusion, and no leakage of lubricant out of the gearbox. It was full of a lubricant that is much thinner than grease, but thicket than motor oil.  Does anyone know what lubricant was used?

Thanks for any insight.
Kent and Iris
Kristy
SM 243


Re: SM Turnbuckle

John Clark
 

While this is a tad late to the discussion, yes the ACMO turnbuckles are chrome plated bronze....and that chrome plating is my concern.  I had Caribe Greement in Martinique replace Annie's rigging in 2017.  Shortly afterward the chrome on the turnbuckles began to look weathered even though we rinsed them and kept them clean.  Here is a picture of the main mast backstay turnbuckle, the one in the cockpit.  This one is out of the weather and the chrome is pretty much done.  Has anyone else had this issue?  


John Clark
SV Annie SM 37
Water Island USVI
  


Whole Boat Permanent Inverter for 220VAC 50Hz

Gary Wells
 
Edited

There have been a couple of recent discussions about getting 220V aboard while plugged in to U.S. (North American) shore power and some of the considerations between the 50Hz/60Hz difference. While we've enjoyed Adagio's collection of adapters which allow easy connection to shore power pretty much anywhere, the 50Hz/60Hz  consideration has been on my "list" for some time now. 

It is certainly not "critical" that we have 50Hz aboard all the the time as most of the appliances (most importantly the Air Conditioners!) tolerate the disparity without complaint.  However, I feel the microwave and the washing machine both are sensitive enough to warrant proper Hz. We do have a small inverter already (about 800w) and if we want (need) to do a small load of laundry in cold water we can indeed use the washer by stretching an extension cord from the inverter to the washer.

 

I  have been thinking over providing inverter power to the whole boat on a permanent basis and was wondering if anyone else has done this or considered it.  It would mean installation of a large inverter (perhaps 4,000 watts, pure sine wave) and using that output exclusively to the boat's power input switchover box (where the shore power comes in now).  The shore power would come aboard and run to the batter charger and nothing else.  (The Genset and "magic switch" cutover would be the same).

 

So, then we would have 220VAC at 50Hz regardless of the situation of the shore power .. it would be a kind of power conditioner as well, smoothing the voltage and frequency if the shore power is shaky.  I do see an advantage to this, as the battery charger can accept a wider range of voltage/Hz variance than the appliances.

 

The obvious downside is that the whole boat would be essentially powered by the battery bank. Shore power would come only to the battery charger, then get converted to 24VDC and then get inverted back to house power at 220VAC 50Hz.  This is obviously less efficient and presents a potential additional battery drain should the Inverter be left on while underway .. although .. with wind and solar providing some power, the use of a 220VAC 50Hz appliance without the need to run the Generator could be a good advantage..

 

Oh, my ..  it's quite a dilemma :)

 

Any thoughts on the idea? 

 

Thanks kindly,

Gary W.
SM209, Adagio
Georgia, USA


Zink Anode for SPURS Line Cutter

Rudolf Waldispuehl
 

Dear Amelias 


When I acquired WASABI there was no Zink on the SPURS robe cutter. But I found in the spare box from former owner replacement anodes. The AutoProp does have the Plastic Cap and I trust the Bonding to protect the Propeller. 
On my former Boat I had the same line cutter and I had to replace the Zink regularly. 

I suppose that the AMEL-Bonding will protect Line cutter without Zink-Anodes as well as the prop, and I don’t need to install. What is the Forums experience and opinion about my question? I am correct?

 

Best regards
Ruedi Waldispuehl
WASABI A54#55 
Marina di Ragusa, Sicily


Re: Mizzen furler gearbox, A54 peculiarity?

Randall Walker
 

Thomas,

There were 2 sets of Delrin bearings 1st set just under the bottom cap and the other in the top. My furler took 2 hands and great force to turn.
Just like in the Delos video. If you look at the one picture you can see the place where the Delrin bushings in the cranking shaft with the gear, has eroded and that is where all of the stiffness is coming from.
I can only say that the 2 holes in my furler bottom go all the way through.
I intend to make a start to finish video of this. It was incredibly simple and now the furler moves like new.

Cheers,
Randall


On Fri, May 15, 2020 at 7:21 PM Sv Garulfo <svgarulfo@...> wrote:
Thanks Randall,

I will attempt to watch the video but I doubt the bandwidth here will allow that...

Further to Mohammad’s question, did you find a bearing inside or delrin balls like Gary described? 
As far as I can see through the horizontal shaft opening, there is a vertical element (consistent with the diagram in Gary’s document) that is supposed to be on a set of derlin balls at the bottom of the housing, but mine does not rotate at all. 

Clearly the gearing housing is not waterproof and without drains it will inevitably fill with dirt and water up to the attachment bolts. The bushing is then halfway soaked in that and the aluminium/stainless steel interface between the gearshaft and the winch handle socket attachment will corrode. The oxidation on the aluminium shaft will slowlly increase the friction to the bushing. The gears are moving freely otherwise. 

So, drill for drain or not? 


Thanks
Thomas

GARULFO 
A54-122
Tahuata, French Polynesia 




On Thu, 14 May 2020 at 10:11, Randall <sailingalbedo@...> wrote:
Thomas,
I removed disassembled and cleaned my mizzen outhaul last fall. You don't need to drop sail. The issue will be in the Delrin bushings that become very stiff. I have attached 2 pictures of my work. The bearings are not to be lubed/greased. I used a cheap homemade tool to unscrew the bottom. 2cm square bar 2 drill holes straight through, put the drill bits in so the solid end goes into the bottom of the furler, with furler in a vice. Worked great. 
I finished and put on a video from a fellow Amel owner who did the same job. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EB67b2hK-kA&t=657s
They do the job at 8.02 of the video. If you need more info let me know. Use the bar not the saw.
Cheers.
 
Randall
A54 #56
Gibraltar



On Wed, May 13, 2020 at 6:50 PM Sv Garulfo <svgarulfo@...> wrote:
Hi all,

In the great document by Gary Silver about the overhaul of the SM Mizzen furler gearbox (thanks Arno for sending us a low bandwidth friendly version), it is mentioned that the bottom part of the gearbox housing is drilled with 2 holes that are used to both unscrew that part (with great efforts) and drain the gearbox of liquids. 

As our gearbox got stiffer recently, I removed it and it appears that those 2 holes are not through openings.. thus not acting as drains. And the gearbox was full of rainwater up to the attachment bolts. Arno tells me he saw the same. 
So the teflon bushing got very dirty and stiff with all sorts of deposits. 

Does anybody know why the drains are no longer machined through? Is it an A54 “innovation”? 
It doesn’t really make sense and I’m thinking of drilling those holes all the way through to reinstate the drain. Any word of advice against that idea?

Thanks for your input

Best, 


Thomas
GARULFO 
A54-122
Tahuata, French Polynesia 



Re: water pressure regulator adjustment

Rink De Haan
 

The original amfa 66b inox is still available. I just remplaced the Marco pump I bought earlier and was not satisfied with, again with the original Alfa pump. So no worries.

Outlook voor iOS downloaden

Van: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> namens Ryan Meador <ryan.d.meador@...>
Verzonden: Friday, May 15, 2020 10:14:05 PM
Aan: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Onderwerp: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] water pressure regulator adjustment
 
I gave the screw 1.5 turns in the "+" direction and our water pressure is now better than ever.

We still have the original AMFA pump, so the regulator probably makes a big difference.  When the pump dies, I'll probably replace a bunch of the fresh water system, but I'm going to keep it Amel-original as long as possible.

Ryan and Kelly
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA


On Wed, May 13, 2020 at 4:29 PM CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
That's original. I don't have any info. I think I would eliminate it, although it would be convenient to keep the pressure gauge. I think modern pumps regulate pressure good enough. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse 
Amel Owners Yacht School
+1 832-380-4970 | brouse@...
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com 
Yacht School Calendar: www.preparetocastoff.blogspot.com/p/calendar.html


   

On Wed, May 13, 2020, 3:19 PM Ryan Meador <ryan.d.meador@...> wrote:
Hi all,

Our boat has a device in the fresh water system just after the pump (photos attached) that I think is a pressure regulator.  It reads "Caleffi Mod Dep Cartridge With Filter".  I can't find an exact match online.  There's one old thread on this list that mentions it, and the owner thought it was an aftermarket addition.  It looks like it's original on at least some hulls!

Our water pressure has been slowly dropping for a couple months.  I suspect this regulator needs adjustment, or its integrated filter needs cleaning.  Do these things go out of calibration after a while?  Does anyone know how to open it to clean the filter?  I'd rather not twist the adjustment screw until I know more about it.

Thanks,

Ryan and Kelly
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA


Re: Canvas

Paul Stascavage
 

Courtney

We had our whole Bimini replaced last November/December by topstitch. They did a good job. What is your email address and phone number?

I will try to get them to reach out to you.

All the Best,

Paul Stascavage
S/V Rita Kathryn SM #466

RitaKathryn.com

Currently Cruising Bahamas


Re: SM2K Genoa Jib Cart ANTAL 624.492/C Order pending in the US #replacement #spares #order

Ryan Meador
 

The "other amel owner" is likely us.  We ordered them from Euro Marine Trading about 2 weeks ago and delivery is expected in another week or so.  That's the same price we were quoted.  We're getting new genoa blocks as well (part 01201, $399/ea).

Ryan and Kelly
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA


On Fri, May 15, 2020 at 5:19 PM Michael & Robyn <SY_RIPPLE@...> wrote:
Greetings!
We are about to order spare ANTAL Genoa Jib Cart 624.492/C
it is a custom build version of http://www.antal.it/eng/624-492_en
We hear another AMEL owner is having an order pending too and we will get a good price approx. $360 per cart.
Anybody else interested to join the order?
--
Michael & Robyn

SY RIPPLE SM2K # 417
still in Brunswick, GA


SM2K Genoa Jib Cart ANTAL 624.492/C Order pending in the US #replacement #spares #order

Michael & Robyn
 

Greetings!
We are about to order spare ANTAL Genoa Jib Cart 624.492/C
it is a custom build version of http://www.antal.it/eng/624-492_en
We hear another AMEL owner is having an order pending too and we will get a good price approx. $360 per cart.
Anybody else interested to join the order?
--
Michael & Robyn

SY RIPPLE SM2K # 417
still in Brunswick, GA


Re: water pressure regulator adjustment

Ryan Meador
 

I gave the screw 1.5 turns in the "+" direction and our water pressure is now better than ever.

We still have the original AMFA pump, so the regulator probably makes a big difference.  When the pump dies, I'll probably replace a bunch of the fresh water system, but I'm going to keep it Amel-original as long as possible.

Ryan and Kelly
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA


On Wed, May 13, 2020 at 4:29 PM CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
That's original. I don't have any info. I think I would eliminate it, although it would be convenient to keep the pressure gauge. I think modern pumps regulate pressure good enough. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse 
Amel Owners Yacht School
+1 832-380-4970 | brouse@...
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com 
Yacht School Calendar: www.preparetocastoff.blogspot.com/p/calendar.html


   

On Wed, May 13, 2020, 3:19 PM Ryan Meador <ryan.d.meador@...> wrote:
Hi all,

Our boat has a device in the fresh water system just after the pump (photos attached) that I think is a pressure regulator.  It reads "Caleffi Mod Dep Cartridge With Filter".  I can't find an exact match online.  There's one old thread on this list that mentions it, and the owner thought it was an aftermarket addition.  It looks like it's original on at least some hulls!

Our water pressure has been slowly dropping for a couple months.  I suspect this regulator needs adjustment, or its integrated filter needs cleaning.  Do these things go out of calibration after a while?  Does anyone know how to open it to clean the filter?  I'd rather not twist the adjustment screw until I know more about it.

Thanks,

Ryan and Kelly
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA


Upcoming Event: Zoom Meeting Presentation of the Amel 50 from La Rochelle - Sat, 05/16/2020 20:00-21:00, Please RSVP #cal-reminder

main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Calendar <main@...>
 

Reminder: Zoom Meeting Presentation of the Amel 50 from La Rochelle

When: Saturday, 16 May 2020, 20:00 to 21:00, (GMT+00:00) UTC

Where:From La Rochelle, France aboard Amel 50 SPEED OF LIFE

An RSVP is requested. Click here to RSVP

Description:

Group members Matt & Cindy Salatino will present their brand new Amel 50 #27 "Speed of Life" from the Amel pontoon in La Rochelle. Matt and Cindy will give us a virtual tour during this presentation and answer your questions at the end of the presentation. Tilo Peters will administer the ZOOM meeting and I suspect that things will run smoothly and be enjoyed by all attending. If you cannot use ZOOM (highly recommended that you try), Tilo set up a YouTube Live stream: https://youtu.be/Ffks9eEkGG4The YouTube Live stream will likely be a bit off, as it seems to show my control view and not the speaker view that is normally transmitted via Zoom. Tilo will also record our meeting on YouTube which will be available 48-72 hours after the meeting. He will notify you when it is available.
 
   Direct link to Join the 16 May at 20:00 UTC - ZOOM Meeting https://epfl.zoom.us/j/98523568530
   Meeting ID: 985 2356 8530
   Join by SIP 98523568530@...

If you missed our first ZOOM meeting, you can view it on YouTube: https://youtu.be/7Mm1bbL-PaA. The first meeting was a test to understand the process. We did not have an expert guest speaker but we plan to have an expert guest speaker for most future meetings. I am currently working to line up experts for:
   Standing Rigging
   Sails 
   Refrigeration
   And more

Times for participation around the world.

       
Country GMT +/- Scheduled Time Scheduled Date
(GMT) 0 2000 5/16/2020
UK Summer Time 100 2100 5/16/2020
NZ 1200 800 5/17/2020
AU Queensland 1000 600 5/17/2020
Tahiti -1000 1000 5/16/2020
USA West DST -700 1300 5/16/2020
USA East DST -400 1600 5/16/2020
USA Central DST -500 1500 5/16/2020
Martinique -400 1600 5/16/2020
Germany 200 2200 5/16/2020
Central EU Summer Time 200 2200 5/16/2020
Note: The above was checked with: https://greenwichmeantime.com/time-gadgets/time-zone-converter/


Re: European SM 240V looking to plug in 240V US Marina

Ryan Meador
 

On our boat, we did mostly as Eric says, but connected blue to red and brown to black.  Since both of these wires are hot (120V with respect to ground, 240V with respect to each other), I don't think it matters which way you connect these two while on USA power.  If the boat or appliances aren't able to handle it, it will be dangerous either way.  Luckily, a stock Amel can handle it.

Being a USA-based boat, we have the USA 50A male connector on the end of our power cord.  When we were cruising in areas with European power, I built an adapter with a USA 50A female on one end and a European 32A male on the other (you have to plan ahead for this; I don't think any store on earth sells both connectors, not even in St Martin).  That way I can just plug it in and not have to rewire the connector every time we go to a different island.  You may want to consider something similar, except reversing the genders to preserve your European plug on the shore power cord.

We also had our shore power cord upgraded to handle 32A while we were in Le Marin.  The stock power cord is rated for 16A, I believe, despite the main breaker being rated for 32A (you can get the full 32A from the generator, but not from shore).  When you're adding the breaker in the aft locker (highly recommended), you want to size it for the rating of your cord, not the main breaker.  Even better would be adding the breaker inline in the adapter so it protects the entire length of the cord, but that seems harder to implement.

Ryan and Kelly
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA


On Thu, May 14, 2020 at 9:01 PM Craig & Katherine Briggs SN 68 Sangaris Tropic Isle Harbor, FL via groups.io <sangaris=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
and, of course, do note that you will be getting US 60 Hz, not European 50 Hz.


Re: Hot Water Heater Power Consumption

Stephen Davis
 

Good idea. It’s been 5 years since replacement, so would not be surprised if the element is toast. 


Re: Hot Water Heater Power Consumption

Stephen Davis
 

Thanks Bill...looks like an engine room day!


Re: Mizzen furler gearbox, A54 peculiarity?

Sv Garulfo
 

Thanks Randall,

I will attempt to watch the video but I doubt the bandwidth here will allow that...

Further to Mohammad’s question, did you find a bearing inside or delrin balls like Gary described? 
As far as I can see through the horizontal shaft opening, there is a vertical element (consistent with the diagram in Gary’s document) that is supposed to be on a set of derlin balls at the bottom of the housing, but mine does not rotate at all. 

Clearly the gearing housing is not waterproof and without drains it will inevitably fill with dirt and water up to the attachment bolts. The bushing is then halfway soaked in that and the aluminium/stainless steel interface between the gearshaft and the winch handle socket attachment will corrode. The oxidation on the aluminium shaft will slowlly increase the friction to the bushing. The gears are moving freely otherwise. 

So, drill for drain or not? 


Thanks
Thomas

GARULFO 
A54-122
Tahuata, French Polynesia 




On Thu, 14 May 2020 at 10:11, Randall <sailingalbedo@...> wrote:
Thomas,
I removed disassembled and cleaned my mizzen outhaul last fall. You don't need to drop sail. The issue will be in the Delrin bushings that become very stiff. I have attached 2 pictures of my work. The bearings are not to be lubed/greased. I used a cheap homemade tool to unscrew the bottom. 2cm square bar 2 drill holes straight through, put the drill bits in so the solid end goes into the bottom of the furler, with furler in a vice. Worked great. 
I finished and put on a video from a fellow Amel owner who did the same job. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EB67b2hK-kA&t=657s
They do the job at 8.02 of the video. If you need more info let me know. Use the bar not the saw.
Cheers.
 
Randall
A54 #56
Gibraltar



On Wed, May 13, 2020 at 6:50 PM Sv Garulfo <svgarulfo@...> wrote:
Hi all,

In the great document by Gary Silver about the overhaul of the SM Mizzen furler gearbox (thanks Arno for sending us a low bandwidth friendly version), it is mentioned that the bottom part of the gearbox housing is drilled with 2 holes that are used to both unscrew that part (with great efforts) and drain the gearbox of liquids. 

As our gearbox got stiffer recently, I removed it and it appears that those 2 holes are not through openings.. thus not acting as drains. And the gearbox was full of rainwater up to the attachment bolts. Arno tells me he saw the same. 
So the teflon bushing got very dirty and stiff with all sorts of deposits. 

Does anybody know why the drains are no longer machined through? Is it an A54 “innovation”? 
It doesn’t really make sense and I’m thinking of drilling those holes all the way through to reinstate the drain. Any word of advice against that idea?

Thanks for your input

Best, 


Thomas
GARULFO 
A54-122
Tahuata, French Polynesia 



Canvas

Courtney Gorman
 

Hi all while I’m holed up in Brunswick it’s time for me to have the soft part of my dodger remade any suggestions of someone who does good canvas work in the area I have tried in vain to get a hold of topstitch out of Jacksonville so someone knows somebody local that’s good I would appreciate the info
Cheers
Courtney
Trippin
54 #101
Brunswick


Re: Mainsail manual furler lubricant

Craig Briggs
 
Edited

Hey Kent and Iris - welcome back to America!

As Robbie Burns wrote, "The best laid schemes o' Mice an' Men Gang aft agley" 
- sounds like you're one of many with cruising plans changed due to C-19. Hopefully you'll be able to get out there in the not-too-distant future.

Regarding your furler gearboxes, there's a thread from 2016 you can search for more discussion, but Bonfiglioli ships their's with Shell Tivela S320 and calls it "lifetime" lubrication, with a 25,000 hour life. There are many equivalent Industrial Synthetic gear oils out there that a google search will bring up. 

That being said, our application with infrequent short duration use really doesn't demand the hi-tech oil.  Perhaps more importantly, the harsh environment with risk of sea water intrusion past the lip seals may argue for the addition of Zerk fittings enabling frequent greasing that many of us have done. That you've had years with no water intrusion is great so you may want to choose to continue as is - no "right" answer.

Cheers,
Craig - if the Covid subsides we may scoot up your way - will let you know.


Re: Mizzen furler gearbox, A54 peculiarity?

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Thank you Randall for the detailed explanation.

 

Happy Sailing;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

AMEL 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Randall via groups.io
Sent: Friday, May 15, 2020 3:28 AM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Mizzen furler gearbox, A54 peculiarity?

 

Hello Mohammad and Aty,

 

Were you able to simply untwist the bottom cap of the furler assembly with the tool you sketched

Unbolt the furler from the foil, I used the uphaul to raise the foil enough to clear furler. Remove 2 bolts that hold furler to the mast.

Then you will need a sturdy vice and a form of wrap to protect the aluminium casing from the vice teeth.

 

First loosen the bottom, counter clockwise. Just a turn or two.

Then remove the cranking shaft, (keeping the cracking shaft in the furler, while loosening in the bottom, just helps hold the furler while loosening the bottom.)

Then finish removing the bottom. Caution first set of bearings are under the bottom cap.

 

The tool I showed was a square metal bar with two holes. The holes are the same spacing as the furler holes. The drill bits are the same size and simply use the bottom of the drill bits through the bar, and that will give you the ability to undo the end cap counter clockwise, and still have the two drill bits for future use.

 

All that was required was to clean everything inside? Were you able to reuse the bearing?

The bearings are dry, the same as in your travelers. I simply cleaned them and put them back in, no grease. They were very coated in salt, but not damaged.

The main issue was the Delrin/plastic inserts for the crank. After very carefully removing the Delrin, I cleaned and as I recall used some lithium grease on the gear shaft.

If I had to guess, the grease may not have been needed. 

 

 

Any other parts or lubrications needed?

If the mizzen is only stiff this can be done in a short time. I have attached the problem area picture and one from Bill Rouse showing the Delrin. I believe this is from his book, showing the Delrin pieces, there are two.

Also the holes in my furlers bottom did go straight through to give drainage as you can see in the teardown picture.

The hole project should only be time and some white grease.

Reassembly had only one puzzle ring moment! When you go to put the upper bearings in, push the internal mechanism in to a point you can just fit the upper bearings in then the rest will be easy.

 

Hope that helps,

Randall

 

On Thu, May 14, 2020 at 10:46 PM Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> wrote:

Hi Randall;

 

Although our “temporary” fix of spraying CorrosionX in the furler has lasted over 4 years and the furler is still very smooth, it has been on our list to service the unit, once we figure out how to get into it. I have a few questions that I would appreciate your response on:

 

  1. Were you able to simply untwist the bottom cap of the furler assembly with the tool you sketched?
  2. All that was required was to clean everything inside?
  3. Were you able to reuse the bearing?
  4. Any other parts or lubrications needed?

 

Thanks for providing this very useful information and sharing your experience.

 

Happy Sailing;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

AMEL 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Randall via groups.io
Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2020 12:41 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Mizzen furler gearbox, A54 peculiarity?

 

Thomas,

I removed disassembled and cleaned my mizzen outhaul last fall. You don't need to drop sail. The issue will be in the Delrin bushings that become very stiff. I have attached 2 pictures of my work. The bearings are not to be lubed/greased. I used a cheap homemade tool to unscrew the bottom. 2cm square bar 2 drill holes straight through, put the drill bits in so the solid end goes into the bottom of the furler, with furler in a vice. Worked great. 

I finished and put on a video from a fellow Amel owner who did the same job. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EB67b2hK-kA&t=657s

They do the job at 8.02 of the video. If you need more info let me know. Use the bar not the saw.

Cheers.

 

Randall

A54 #56

Gibraltar

 

 

 

On Wed, May 13, 2020 at 6:50 PM Sv Garulfo <svgarulfo@...> wrote:

Hi all,

 

In the great document by Gary Silver about the overhaul of the SM Mizzen furler gearbox (thanks Arno for sending us a low bandwidth friendly version), it is mentioned that the bottom part of the gearbox housing is drilled with 2 holes that are used to both unscrew that part (with great efforts) and drain the gearbox of liquids. 

 

As our gearbox got stiffer recently, I removed it and it appears that those 2 holes are not through openings.. thus not acting as drains. And the gearbox was full of rainwater up to the attachment bolts. Arno tells me he saw the same. 

So the teflon bushing got very dirty and stiff with all sorts of deposits. 

 

Does anybody know why the drains are no longer machined through? Is it an A54 “innovation”? 

It doesn’t really make sense and I’m thinking of drilling those holes all the way through to reinstate the drain. Any word of advice against that idea?

 

Thanks for your input

 

Best, 

 

 

Thomas

GARULFO 

A54-122

Tahuata, French Polynesia 

 

 


Mainsail manual furler lubricant

karkauai
 

Hi all,
I hope everyone is staying healthy and enjoying where ever you are locked down.

Iris and I were headed to Panama when everything shut down. After 2 weeks in Antigua and no end in sight, we sailed back to St Michaels, MD. We had to heave-to 3 times to wait for fronts to pass with 30+ kt N winds before we could get across the Gulf Stream. 17-day passage, counting hove-to time.

We are home again and I am working on some previously neglected items.  I've removed the manual furler from the main sail foil to find the foil's circumference about 30% eroded by the bolt.  Thanks for the heads-up on that issue.
The gearbox was a little stiff, so I've disassembled it for cleaning and replacing the seals.  Pat (Shenanigans) did a nice write-up which Bill R has reproduced in his book. Thanks!

After 20 years, the gearbox was in great shape with no water intrusion, and no leakage of lubricant out of the gearbox. It was full of a lubricant that is much thinner than grease, but thicket than motor oil.  Does anyone know what lubricant was used?

Thanks for any insight.
Kent and Iris
Kristy
SM 243