Date   
Re: Cleaning the worst parts of an Amel

Mark & Debbie Mueller
 

I opted for the low tech approach.  First I installed a small filter prior to the refrigeration raw water pump to filter out the smaller unwanted bits that escape the main strainer or grow in the supply hose.  When cleaning the main strainer turn off the intake valve then remove the bowl of the small strainer then open the lid on the main strainer.  The small strainer is below the level of the discharge of the main intake so the water level drops and the main strainer can be removed without critters or junk getting out of the main strainer.  However, in my case I have a course bristle brush on the end of a pole that I push down through the strainer, open the intake valve, push the brush down to clear the bottom of the boat to assist the exit of any remaining coarse debris, hold the strainer in place with one hand withdrawing the brush quickly so it clears the valve then close the intake valve.  With a little practice this can be done without water overflowing the main strainer.  Then remove the plastic insert and clean normally.  No hazmat suit necessary.

This method works very well when the strainer in the intake becomes clogged.  The attached show the results of a jellyfish bloom.  We had to clean the main strainer every 4 - 12 hours this summer.  My wife had to do it when I had to be off the boat - the methodology worked but she ran the A/C for shorter intervals.

Not wanting bilge spray blow back I flush with a garden hose on an irregular basis but add Unique Natural Products Marine Digest-It Holding Tank Treatment.  It is a blend of bacteria and enzymes that is safe for plastics and metals.  I believe its byproducts are CO2 & water.  A couple of tablespoons every 2 - 3 weeks seems to work pretty well - no smells and a fairly clean bilge.

Mark Mueller
Brass Ring  A54

Re: Bow Thruster on 54

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Hi Jeff;

 

Can you please let me know where you purchase these switches?

 

Happy Sailing;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

AMEL 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of JEFFREY KRAUS via Groups.Io
Sent: Sunday, December 15, 2019 8:25 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Bow Thruster on 54

 

Good Day Amelians,
Just a note for any 54 owners regarding the thruster up/down motion.
Being aboard, I like to run tests on all systems.
In both my last and current stays aboard, I encountered the same problem.
Both the down and up position switches are discontinuous switches. When they are engaged they turn off the motion of the motor.
Seeing as the motor is engaged for a long period of time, it has a tendency to stick, or remain engaged. Once the motor reaches the down position, it stops. When I switch the motor to move back up, it doesn't move. After pressing the up position switch a couple times, it seems to free the switch from it's engaged position, and the motor will move to the up position and stop. A couple of up down movements, and it works flawlessly.
I will now leave the thruster about 1/4" lower then full up position so the switch isn't engaged while not aboard. The thruster opening down below the waterline should still be engaged enough with the hull to avoid any problems.
I wonder if any other 54 owners have encountered this problem. I keep those switches handy, as they are problematic. Keeping the thruster slightly lowered may solve the issue or at least prolong the switch life.
Best Regards to all.
Jeff Spirit Amel 54 #14 Puerto Real, PR

Bow Thruster on 54

JEFFREY KRAUS
 

Good Day Amelians,
Just a note for any 54 owners regarding the thruster up/down motion.
Being aboard, I like to run tests on all systems.
In both my last and current stays aboard, I encountered the same problem.
Both the down and up position switches are discontinuous switches. When they are engaged they turn off the motion of the motor.
Seeing as the motor is engaged for a long period of time, it has a tendency to stick, or remain engaged. Once the motor reaches the down position, it stops. When I switch the motor to move back up, it doesn't move. After pressing the up position switch a couple times, it seems to free the switch from it's engaged position, and the motor will move to the up position and stop. A couple of up down movements, and it works flawlessly.
I will now leave the thruster about 1/4" lower then full up position so the switch isn't engaged while not aboard. The thruster opening down below the waterline should still be engaged enough with the hull to avoid any problems.
I wonder if any other 54 owners have encountered this problem. I keep those switches handy, as they are problematic. Keeping the thruster slightly lowered may solve the issue or at least prolong the switch life.
Best Regards to all.
Jeff Spirit Amel 54 #14 Puerto Real, PR

Re: Stern tube hose

James Alton
 

Arlo,
  Sorry to hear that the hose you ordered seems to be too flexible.  Jamestown Distributors (Rhode Island) appears from the website to have the Algonquin hose in stock though not your exact size.  The hose is only about $15 per pc. So maybe it would be worth getting a size above and below your messurement to see what fits the best.  I replaced the hose on Sueno with the Algonquin hose this year and found the hose to be pretty soft so it should stretch some or compress some.  I should have other sources if Jamestown can't help you.  You are welcome to send me an email if you prefer.   Best of luck.

James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Dec. 15, 2019 10:14 a.m., Arlo <svplanb@...> wrote:
Hello James. The measurements I took are right at the end of the hose on the stern tube where the hose stops once fully seated. Same on the stuffing box, so the barbs if any are not included. We are hauling out today and will start the dissembling process tomorrow and I will take the stuffing box to the local prop shop in hopes that they have some of the Buck Alog. Hoses. I will also call Buck Alog. on Monday to see what they think as well. The Tides hose I recieved yesterday seemed more flexible than I was expecting  so the jury is still out on the use of that hose...I may ping you tomorrow if I come up empty. I really appreciate the help.
Arlo

Re: AMFA bilge pump rebuild kit

Craig & Katherine Briggs SN 68 Sangaris Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
 

Ah, the Zen of fixing your boat in exotic ports!

Re: Stern tube hose

Arlo
 

Hello James. The measurements I took are right at the end of the hose on the stern tube where the hose stops once fully seated. Same on the stuffing box, so the barbs if any are not included. We are hauling out today and will start the dissembling process tomorrow and I will take the stuffing box to the local prop shop in hopes that they have some of the Buck Alog. Hoses. I will also call Buck Alog. on Monday to see what they think as well. The Tides hose I recieved yesterday seemed more flexible than I was expecting  so the jury is still out on the use of that hose...I may ping you tomorrow if I come up empty. I really appreciate the help.
Arlo

Re: Cleaning the worst parts of an Amel

Alexander Hofmann
 

Hi Arno,

thanks, very good ideas and descpription. 

Something to add. Olivier Beauté (Amel boat expert ond former SAV of Amel) instructed me so, and I do it with good success since over 4 years. 

Before starting the manual cleaning procedure I
  1. empty the bilge with the manual pump 
  2. take 2 tablets of small bags of cleaning substance for the DISH WASHER (makes no foam!!!) in the sink in the pantry, dilute it well in very hot water, 
  3. drain it into the bilge, add a lot of hot water (even if the hot water tank is empty) by separately boiled water mixed with cold wtare to about 70 °C, and drain it until the bilge is completely full (disconntect the contacts for the electrical bilge pump before).
  4. let it work for at least one, better more hours, it softens and cleans the heavy mug at the sides and bottom an everywhere in the bilge 
  5. pump this cocktail :-) out with the manual bilge pump. 
I do this always after a 4-5 week sail, sometimes on half time also. 
The complete process (with the Kärcher) runs on my ship only once a year or even less due to this prevention of thick mug layers. 

Hope this is an additional idea to the perfect process you have described. 

Alexander, SY Oceanica I Amel 54#156

Re: AMFA bilge pump rebuild kit

Sv Garulfo
 

hi Craig, all,

I’m pleased to report that I was able to implement Craig’s suggestions to repair the plastic/aluminium clutch gear of the Marina ZZ bilge pump gearbox. 
Interestingly, it initially looked like a piece was missing, creating a gap, but the lack of debris and the matching break surfaces convinced me otherwise. I guess the plastic ring is tensioned over the aluminium. 
So i elected to mate one side of the break and fill the gap with epoxy and a pin. I cut a new groove in the epoxy for the worm gear and luckily it aligns well, allowing the gears to run pretty smoothly. 

Hopefully it’ll last 12+ years, but still have a replacement planned, available from Amel and also Emek. 


Thanks again

Best,

Thomas
GARULFO 
A54-122
Ua Pou, Marquesas, French Polynesia 



On Sat, 7 Dec 2019 at 12:16, Sv Garulfo via Groups.Io <svgarulfo=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:
Thanks Craig, 

I think i found it (at least another thread where you quoted it). 
I will have a look to see what could be done.

Cheers
Thomas

On Sat, 7 Dec 2019 at 04:17, Craig Briggs SN 68 Sangaris via Groups.Io <sangaris=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Thomas,
Definitely not broken beyond repair. If, as Bill suggests, you can get a new plastic gear that would be super.  If not, you can actually repair the old one quite easily - search for my old post on the subject, but basically, separate the outer toothed part from the inner ring, rotate the toothed part on reassembly so you've spanned all the inner breaks. Then drill holes in the valleys of the gear on each side of the breaks, thru the inner ring and put "pins" (finishing nails will do) thru the holes. You might wash it in mineral spirits first and add some glue to the brew. I did this repair on mine maybe 12 years ago or so and it its still going strong.
Cheers, Craig

Re: Size of main sail sheet

marklesparkle59
 

I second that, when I changed my 14mm genoa sheets for 12mm the sheets were less comfortable and maybe even stretched a little under high loads.
Mark Porter
Sea Hobo Shark #96



Sent from my Samsung device


-------- Original message --------
From: "Matt Salatino via Groups.Io" <helmsmatt@...>
Date: 14/12/2019 17:24 (GMT+00:00)
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Size of main sail sheet

Many times, the smaller diameter line is plenty strong, but the larger diameter line feels better in the hand, easier to pull and handle at the expense of increased weight.


On Sat, Dec 14, 2019 at 11:20 AM, Nicolas Klene via Groups.Io
<laixoi@...> wrote:

Hello everybody 

can somebody tell me if  there main sail sheet coming in the cockpit on the winch on the mizzen mast is 12mm or 14mm is mandatory ? 
I have 14mm , and was wondering if it would be safe to reduce to 12mm ?
merry Christmas to all 🎄
Nick

--
Nicolas Klene
DarNico
SM2K # 471
In Marseille

Re: Size of main sail sheet

Arnold Mente
 

Hi,

here you can find ALL what you need!!!!


Arnold
SY Zephyr
SM203

Am 14.12.2019 um 18:24 schrieb Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt@...>:

Many times, the smaller diameter line is plenty strong, but the larger diameter line feels better in the hand, easier to pull and handle at the expense of increased weight.


On Sat, Dec 14, 2019 at 11:20 AM, Nicolas Klene via Groups.Io
<laixoi@...> wrote:

Hello everybody 

can somebody tell me if  there main sail sheet coming in the cockpit on the winch on the mizzen mast is 12mm or 14mm is mandatory ? 
I have 14mm , and was wondering if it would be safe to reduce to 12mm ?
merry Christmas to all 🎄
Nick

--
Nicolas Klene
DarNico
SM2K # 471
In Marseille




--
SY Zephyr SM203

Re: Size of main sail sheet

Matt Salatino
 

Many times, the smaller diameter line is plenty strong, but the larger diameter line feels better in the hand, easier to pull and handle at the expense of increased weight.


On Sat, Dec 14, 2019 at 11:20 AM, Nicolas Klene via Groups.Io
<laixoi@...> wrote:

Hello everybody 

can somebody tell me if  there main sail sheet coming in the cockpit on the winch on the mizzen mast is 12mm or 14mm is mandatory ? 
I have 14mm , and was wondering if it would be safe to reduce to 12mm ?
merry Christmas to all 🎄
Nick

--
Nicolas Klene
DarNico
SM2K # 471
In Marseille

Re: Cleaning the worst parts of an Amel

Paul Stascavage
 

Always such useful information on this forum.  Thank you to all.

We also find that wiping plates, pans, etc. with paper towels is a great prevention technique.  Additionally, we use vinegar in between major cleanings to keep the bilge fresh and prevent odors.  About once a week or so, we will pour about 1/8th gallon of vinegar down each head sink, and about 1/4 gallon down the galley sink.  We do this in the evening with the bilge no more than 1/3 full of water.  We let it sit overnight.  This procedure works wonders for us in extending the duration between major cleanings and we believe it should also help keeping the waste lines clean.  We will also use this procedure before a sail in an effort to have the mixture slosh around down there and be even more effective.

We use a similar procedure for the sea water basket/reservoir.  After I clean the strainer/reservoir, we will flush fresh water through the system by flushing the two heads while adding fresh water from a hose.  I will then add a gallon of vinegar to the reservoir, cap, and let sit for at least a few hours before re-opening the sea cock.  I find this procedure eliminates those stains on the strainer/resevoir that are not removed with ordinary cleaning.  I believe it must be helping to keep the associated plumbing cleaner as well.

All the best,

Paul Stascavage
SM #466 - s/v Rita Kathryn
Currently Exploring Brunswick, GA

www.RitaKathryn.com

Size of main sail sheet

Nicolas Klene
 

Hello everybody 

can somebody tell me if  there main sail sheet coming in the cockpit on the winch on the mizzen mast is 12mm or 14mm is mandatory ? 
I have 14mm , and was wondering if it would be safe to reduce to 12mm ?
merry Christmas to all 🎄
Nick

--
Nicolas Klene
DarNico
SM2K # 471
In Marseille

Re: Cleaning the worst parts of an Amel

Arno Luijten
 

Hi Joerg,
I'm not sure how the bilge is designed on a A55 but I only use the Kärcher in the bilge-pit itself, for the A54 there is no insulation there and keeping the water-level low to begin with, produces little "back-fire"spray. What I mostly want to achieve is to get the crud from the bottom of the pit, so I don't let the water level go up much before I suck the water out again.

We also have a fairly strict regime to avoid solids and fat entering the bilge. But it's still a grey water bilge, whichever way you want to look at it :-)

Cheers,

Arno
SV Luna,
A54-121

Re: Stern tube hose

James Alton
 

Arlo,

   I was wondering how you were measuring the OD on your stuffing box and stern tube?  I have always sized my hose to the root or the base/pipe OD of the fitting which does not include the barbs.    The hose without wire (even the thick BA hose) is pretty soft and will pretty  easily stretch to fit over the barbs if it is sized to fit the base “pipe” OD of the fittings.  The Buck Algonquin 5 ply Packing Gland  hose should be available in a size to fit your stuffing box.  2”, 2 1/4”, 2 3/8” etc.  see link below.  There used to be a number of suppliers in the US, should still be some.  If you get stuck let me know and I will do some research if you want to use this type of hose.  


James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Dec 14, 2019, at 12:21 AM, Arlo <svplanb@...> wrote:

Hey there Danny. I called them today and they dont have any 4 or 5 ply in stock of that size...they are doing some research for me. Great place as I have bought hose there before and appreciate the reminder! 

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Re: Cleaning the worst parts of an Amel

 

When Judy and I were still cruising, she told me it was a dirty job and "someone" had to do it. I used a wet vac also, but anyone who knows me, knows I use a wet vac for lots of things. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School - www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Fri, Dec 13, 2019, 3:45 PM Paul Brown <feeder.brown@...> wrote:
Nice tip Joerg and Bill thanks

Regards, Paul... Sent from my iPhone

On 14 Dec 2019, at 09:41, Joerg Esdorn via Groups.Io <jhe1313=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Thanks, Arno, for this post.  I, too, have been using a wet vac and Kaercher to get the bad stuff out of the bilge.  But I found that the Kaercher makes a bit of a mess with dirty water mist everywhere (including my face) and totally shreds the insulation if you accidentally direct it on that.  So this year, I tried something different.  When I went through the Amel training, they showed me a wooden scrubber on a long stick which came with the boat and explained that I needed to cut the scrubber down to no more than 6 inches wide to have the ideal tool to clean the bilge.  I finally did just that this fall and found scrubbing to be easy and less messy than Kaerchering!  I used some degreaser and a normal hose with a nozzle to wash everything down and used the manual bilge pump to pump it out.  I flushed everything three or four times until all the water remaining at the bottom was clear.  I could have used the wet vac to clean that out but I didn't see a need since I could see the bottom and the keel bolt in good shape and no foreign objects were in sight!

I also have a tip for treating the bilge during the season which has worked very well for me.  Once a week, I add 2 espresso cups of Citric acid power to the bilge dissolved in warm water (via the galley sink).  The Citric acid neutralizes the soap residues in the bilge and it results in flakes of soap residue coming off the hoses in the bilge.  I leave the acid for 15 minutes to soak the bilge and then pump out the bilge with the manual bilge pump.  I have reduced the frequency of my bilge cleaning from every two months to once a season this way.  Much less smell, too.  Note, however, that we also clean all dishes and pots with paper towels before washing them.  So no crumbs, olive oil and sauces in the bilge!  Thanks to Bill Rouse for that tip!

Cheers Joerg

Joerg Esdorn
A55 Kincsem #53

Re: Manuals and instructions of the Amel Sharki 1982 Nr 53.

 

Ready to accept any and all😀

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School - www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Fri, Dec 13, 2019, 6:23 AM Aras <aras.grinius@...> wrote:
As a Sharki owner (163) I spoke to Bill Rouse about adding sections in for Maramu’s and Sharki’s.   He thought it might be a good idea.   
If you perform repairs you need to document the steps you take and take pictures of those steps.  I have done some, but they need editing.   This is where Bill is great.   His Amel book has been extremely helpful in sorting out stuff on Amel.

Hopefully I’ll get some time to organize my pics and get Bill to help publish them.

Aras
Sharki # 163 1988