Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Jib forestay / Mouse Assembly

amelforme
 

Just attach both heads of both headsails to the swivel and hoist. You can then furl the double headsail rig infinitely without wrapping the spinnaker/second halyard around the swivel and headfoil. 

Joel F. Potter
THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY
954-812-2485

On Feb 4, 2016, at 1:24 PM, n33077@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Olivier,

Yes you are right. I only have 2 grooves on my furler.  This begets the next question fro downwind sailing.  I presume then, one must use the spinnaker halyard for the second sail.  One should also attach a "down" line to pull down the sail before furling.

Aras


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Jib forestay / Mouse Assembly

n33077@...
 

Olivier,

Yes you are right. I only have 2 grooves on my furler.  This begets the next question fro downwind sailing.  I presume then, one must use the spinnaker halyard for the second sail.  One should also attach a "down" line to pull down the sail before furling.

Aras


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Jib forestay / Mouse Assembly

Giovanni TESTA
 

Hi Olivier,
about "why the jib forestay needs to be greased?" may you please tell us what happens
 when "we got a metal to metal screeching sound"?
 Is it a serious problem?
thanks so much
Buon Vento
Giovanni TESTA
sv EUTIKIA
SM2K n428


Il 04/02/2016 18:26, Beaute Olivier atlanticyachtsurvey@... [amelyachtowners] ha scritto:
 
Good evening Aras,

the genoa/ballooner furling system with hook and "mouse" release was developped in 1993 and your Sharki is probably not equipped with this system, unless you have changed your furling foil with a three groove one.
How many grooves are there in your foil, 2 or 3?
If 2, then your swivel is not the one that hooks and dehooks the ballooner with the "mouse".

Best regards.

Olivier.


On Thursday, February 4, 2016 5:41 PM, "Stephen Davis flyboyscd@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:


 
Hey Aras,

The Amel furler and forestay configuration is a bit unusual, and most riggers have never seen one. In our case when the forestay was dry, we got a metal to metal screeching sound when we furled. We rebuilt the entire system last summer, coated the fore stay with super lube synthetic grease, and it is now smooth and quiet. The superlube is a nice product, as it is clear and less messy than conventional waterproof grease. 

Good luck with the furler rebuild. 

Steve and Liz
Aloha SM 72
St Martin


On Feb 4, 2016, at 12:12, n33077@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 
Can anyone tell me why the jib forestay needs to be greased?  I took my forestay down to rebuild the electric motor and now I'm ready to put it back up.  Rigger and I curious why greasing the forestay is needed.

Also, Does anyone have a picture and nomenclature of the jib mouse assembly.   I do not have one and would to acquire for flying both jibs downwind.

I searched the forum but have not found anything substantive.

Thanks

Aras
Sharki # 163





Re: [Amel Yacht hull damage Discovered old unknown repair below water line

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

To find hull damage get out your hi power spot light. At night open the lockers/cabinets have some shine the light on the inside while you observe the hull on the outside. Cracks or voids can be observed damaged areas will appear as a spider web center on the area of the "hit". 

Fair Winds Smooth Sailing To All
Capt Richard 
RP Yacht Brokerage
Newport RI 
We list sell and service fine yachts including Amel's
Cell 603 767 5330

On Feb 4, 2016, at 12:28, osterberg.paul.l@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Thank you for your comforting words, but where we have pealed away the gelcoat, we can still see the cracks in the laminates, I really hope we do not see them on the inside tomorrow, I will also try to measure the moist level from the inside too to see if it is elevated there to. I think/guess the moister meters only measure very shallow down in the laminate so if there is no elevated level on the inside there should be less concern. But as there is no topp coat, I assume as we leave aboard the moister level could be rather high 

Paul S/Y Kerpa SM#259


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Discovered old unknown repair below water line

Paul Osterberg
 

Thank you for your comforting words, but where we have pealed away the gelcoat, we can still see the cracks in the laminates, I really hope we do not see them on the inside tomorrow, I will also try to measure the moist level from the inside too to see if it is elevated there to. I think/guess the moister meters only measure very shallow down in the laminate so if there is no elevated level on the inside there should be less concern. But as there is no topp coat, I assume as we leave aboard the moister level could be rather high 
Paul S/Y Kerpa SM#259


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Jib forestay / Mouse Assembly

Beaute Olivier
 

Good evening Aras,

the genoa/ballooner furling system with hook and "mouse" release was developped in 1993 and your Sharki is probably not equipped with this system, unless you have changed your furling foil with a three groove one.
How many grooves are there in your foil, 2 or 3?
If 2, then your swivel is not the one that hooks and dehooks the ballooner with the "mouse".

Best regards.

Olivier.


On Thursday, February 4, 2016 5:41 PM, "Stephen Davis flyboyscd@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:


 
Hey Aras,

The Amel furler and forestay configuration is a bit unusual, and most riggers have never seen one. In our case when the forestay was dry, we got a metal to metal screeching sound when we furled. We rebuilt the entire system last summer, coated the fore stay with super lube synthetic grease, and it is now smooth and quiet. The superlube is a nice product, as it is clear and less messy than conventional waterproof grease. 

Good luck with the furler rebuild. 

Steve and Liz
Aloha SM 72
St Martin


On Feb 4, 2016, at 12:12, n33077@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 
Can anyone tell me why the jib forestay needs to be greased?  I took my forestay down to rebuild the electric motor and now I'm ready to put it back up.  Rigger and I curious why greasing the forestay is needed.

Also, Does anyone have a picture and nomenclature of the jib mouse assembly.   I do not have one and would to acquire for flying both jibs downwind.

I searched the forum but have not found anything substantive.

Thanks

Aras
Sharki # 163




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] C-Drive Maintenance

eric freedman
 

Hi,

Also remember to replace the O ring on the drain plug.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, February 04, 2016 9:38 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] C-Drive Maintenance

 

 

Hi Rick.  I had the same problem several years ago.  I flushed with cheap oil.  

Also, I changed the way the seals were installed.  The drawing from Amel shows the two inner (forward) seals with open sides facing forward and the outer (aft) seal facing aft.  I placed the inner seal facing forward and the two outer seals facing aft.  That way there are two keeping water out and one keeping oil in.  If you start leaking oil (I haven't) you can replace it through the overflow tank.

 

I haven't had any problems since I started installing the seals this way.

 

Good luck.

Kent

SM243

Kristy


On Feb 4, 2016, at 8:51 AM, rickgrimes1@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

On the hard changing the milkshake-colored oil in the c-drive. I've looked on the forum and see a reference to flushing it with diesel before refilling with oil. Also saw something about using benzene. Any other ideas/experiences? Thanks!

Rick Grimes
S/V Rascal SM2K (#404)


Re: Changes to Yahoo

Gary Wells
 

Hi all,

Well got kind of busy so let things sit for a bit.  No news, no problems and everything seems ready to go.

I will switch on "Administrator Approval" for new members in a week or so, so existing members here (if they want to) should register ow while the process is a simple email validation.  

I did a database backup to be sure it worked and they can be saved off-line to prevent any data loss.

If there is a consensus that folks want to move over now, I realize there are several very active discussions going on.  I have the ability to capture them and will move those over so the reply chain can start on the new board without dropping any of the current messages in the topic.

Looks like we'll e sitting tight for a couple of weeks here in the USVI whilst some paperwork gets handled so it's a good time as far as availability and connectivity for me to work on the board if anything goes weird or can be improved.

Regards,

Gary W.
SM 209, Adagio
USVI





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Jib forestay / Mouse Assembly

Stephen Davis
 

Hey Aras,

The Amel furler and forestay configuration is a bit unusual, and most riggers have never seen one. In our case when the forestay was dry, we got a metal to metal screeching sound when we furled. We rebuilt the entire system last summer, coated the fore stay with super lube synthetic grease, and it is now smooth and quiet. The superlube is a nice product, as it is clear and less messy than conventional waterproof grease. 

Good luck with the furler rebuild. 

Steve and Liz
Aloha SM 72
St Martin


On Feb 4, 2016, at 12:12, n33077@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Can anyone tell me why the jib forestay needs to be greased?  I took my forestay down to rebuild the electric motor and now I'm ready to put it back up.  Rigger and I curious why greasing the forestay is needed.

Also, Does anyone have a picture and nomenclature of the jib mouse assembly.   I do not have one and would to acquire for flying both jibs downwind.

I searched the forum but have not found anything substantive.

Thanks

Aras
Sharki # 163



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Discovered old unknown repair below water line

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Hi Paul,

                      From your description  I would not expect this to  amount to anything serious. It will be interesting to see if there is any damage visible on the inside. Very often the gelcoat cracks as a result of a collision making the hull " pump". The gelcoat can crack but  often nothing else.

 However,  if I were you I would take this opportunity to fix these cracks now, as otherwise water will slowly penetrate and you may well end up with blisters.

If I were you I would peel back the gelcoat in the affected area, leave to dry until the moisture meter gave the right reading ( this can be accelerated by use of a lamp ) and then re gelcoat.  Properly done, you will not be able to see where the repair took place.


Ian and Judy  Pen Azen, SM 302, Preveza
















From: amelyachtowners@... on behalf of osterberg.paul.l@... [amelyachtowners] Sent: 04 February 2016 16:24
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Discovered old unknown repair below water line
 


When we removed the old bottom paint we discovered an old damage that was repaired. There are several cracks from the repaired area into the original GRP. Along the cracks we measured high moister content in the hull, but not on other areas of the hull. I do not really know if this is a serious problem or just let it dry and put on some epoxy anti foul and forget about it. I have posted a few photos in the photo section and would appreciate any idea of what to do.

Tomorrow when I have calmed down, we will investigate if there are any visible cracks on the inside.


Paul on S/Y Kerpa on the hard in Finike, Turkey SM#259





Discovered old unknown repair below water line

Paul Osterberg
 

When we removed the old bottom paint we discovered an old damage that was repaired. There are several cracks from the repaired area into the original GRP. Along the cracks we measured high moister content in the hull, but not on other areas of the hull. I do not really know if this is a serious problem or just let it dry and put on some epoxy anti foul and forget about it. I have posted a few photos in the photo section and would appreciate any idea of what to do.

Tomorrow when I have calmed down, we will investigate if there are any visible cracks on the inside.


Paul on S/Y Kerpa on the hard in Finike, Turkey SM#259



Jib forestay / Mouse Assembly

n33077@...
 

Can anyone tell me why the jib forestay needs to be greased?  I took my forestay down to rebuild the electric motor and now I'm ready to put it back up.  Rigger and I curious why greasing the forestay is needed.

Also, Does anyone have a picture and nomenclature of the jib mouse assembly.   I do not have one and would to acquire for flying both jibs downwind.

I searched the forum but have not found anything substantive.

Thanks

Aras
Sharki # 163



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] C-Drive Maintenance

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

When we were on the hard at Amel service the flushed the C drive with acetone let it drain and used 40 wt motor oil to fill it. 
Be sure to change the 3 seals and bushing. Pack the seals with water proof grease. 2 with to hold the water out 1 to keep the oil in. 
Oh be sure to have a 5 gal bucket when you drain the drive. 

Fair Winds Smooth Sailing To All
Capt Richard 
RP Yacht Brokerage
Newport RI 
We list sell and service fine yachts including Amel's
Cell 603 767 5330

On Feb 4, 2016, at 08:51, rickgrimes1@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

On the hard changing the milkshake-colored oil in the c-drive. I've looked on the forum and see a reference to flushing it with diesel before refilling with oil. Also saw something about using benzene. Any other ideas/experiences? Thanks!

Rick Grimes
S/V Rascal SM2K (#404)


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] C-Drive Maintenance

karkauai
 

Hi Rick.  I had the same problem several years ago.  I flushed with cheap oil.  
Also, I changed the way the seals were installed.  The drawing from Amel shows the two inner (forward) seals with open sides facing forward and the outer (aft) seal facing aft.  I placed the inner seal facing forward and the two outer seals facing aft.  That way there are two keeping water out and one keeping oil in.  If you start leaking oil (I haven't) you can replace it through the overflow tank.

I haven't had any problems since I started installing the seals this way.

Good luck.
Kent
SM243
Kristy


On Feb 4, 2016, at 8:51 AM, rickgrimes1@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

On the hard changing the milkshake-colored oil in the c-drive. I've looked on the forum and see a reference to flushing it with diesel before refilling with oil. Also saw something about using benzene. Any other ideas/experiences? Thanks!

Rick Grimes
S/V Rascal SM2K (#404)


C-Drive Maintenance

Rick Grimes
 

On the hard changing the milkshake-colored oil in the c-drive. I've looked on the forum and see a reference to flushing it with diesel before refilling with oil. Also saw something about using benzene. Any other ideas/experiences? Thanks!

Rick Grimes
S/V Rascal SM2K (#404)


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] SPARE STARTER AND STANDARD ALTERNATOR YANMAR 4JH4-HTE ENGINE

Mark Erdos
 

Alex,



I have replaced the starter for my 4JH4-HTE with this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Starter-S114-815-S114-817-129242-77010-3JH3-3JH3E-18219-/271088089891?hash=item3f1e1bfb23



It looked identical to the Hitachi in every way (except the Yanmar grey paint). I also added a spare to the inventory. I figured, why not at $60, right?



It is my understanding that Yanmar purchases many components of the engine from 3rd party manufactures. When they resell these parts as Yanmar, they put on a heft markup (the grey paint must be very expensive). Looking at the starter from UR, I am guessing it is made by the same supplier Yanmar uses. I would purchase again with confidence.







With best regards,



Mark



Super Maramu 2000

Hull #275

www.creampuff.us

Currently cruising: Marsh Harbour – Abaco Islands - Bahamas



From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Thursday, February 04, 2016 6:56 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] SPARE STARTER AND STANDARD ALTERNATOR YANMAR 4JH4-HTE ENGINE





Good morning to all,

Does anyone have any experience replacing the Yanmar Original starter motor or alternators with the Gladiator brand parts from UR Solutions, advertised on Ebay in the USA?

The price of these parts are significantly lower that the Yanmar original offered by the Yanmar parts dealers in the US.

For example the Original Hitachi made starter motor , part 129608-77010 sells for around $300m and the Gladiator brand equivalent sells for around $60.

Such a big difference in pricing makes me doubt about the quality and performance of these generic parts.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Alex Paquin

s/v SIMPATICO

Maramu Hll #94, 1981 (repowered in 2013)


SPARE STARTER AND STANDARD ALTERNATOR YANMAR 4JH4-HTE ENGINE

Alejandro Paquin
 

Good morning to all,

Does anyone have any experience replacing the Yanmar Original starter motor or alternators with the Gladiator brand parts from UR Solutions, advertised on Ebay in the USA?

The price of these parts are significantly lower that the Yanmar original offered by the Yanmar parts dealers in the US.

For example the Original Hitachi made starter motor , part 129608-77010 sells for around $300m and the Gladiator brand equivalent sells for around $60.

Such a big difference in pricing makes me doubt about the quality and performance of these generic parts.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Alex Paquin

s/v SIMPATICO

Maramu Hll #94, 1981 (repowered in 2013) 

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gearing ratio

Barry Ferguson <seagasm@...>
 

Thank you Oliver

Regards Barry


On Thursday, 4 February 2016, Beaute Olivier atlanticyachtsurvey@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Good morning Barry & Robyn,

the ratio between your VOLVO/PERKINS TMD22 and the C-drive is 2.74/1. The C-drive is 1/1.
Your Yanmar supplier may suggest that you install a ZF 30M mechanic gear-box with a 2.69/1 ratio. However, your current HURTH-ZF HBW-250 could be re-installed as long as it is in good condition (it can be re-built with a new discs kit).

Bon courage

Olivier


On Thursday, February 4, 2016 3:11 AM, "seagasm@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


 
Can someone tell me the ratio between the Perkins TMD22A and the C drive unit. What changes have been made by those who successfully have replaced the Perkins with a Yamnar engine?

Thankyou

Best Regards
Barry & Robyn
Tradewinds III SM # 171




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gearing ratio

Beaute Olivier
 

Good morning Barry & Robyn,

the ratio between your VOLVO/PERKINS TMD22 and the C-drive is 2.74/1. The C-drive is 1/1.
Your Yanmar supplier may suggest that you install a ZF 30M mechanic gear-box with a 2.69/1 ratio. However, your current HURTH-ZF HBW-250 could be re-installed as long as it is in good condition (it can be re-built with a new discs kit).

Bon courage

Olivier


On Thursday, February 4, 2016 3:11 AM, "seagasm@... [amelyachtowners]"


 
Can someone tell me the ratio between the Perkins TMD22A and the C drive unit. What changes have been made by those who successfully have replaced the Perkins with a Yamnar engine?

Thankyou

Best Regards
Barry & Robyn
Tradewinds III SM # 171




Gearing ratio

seagasm@...
 

Can someone tell me the ratio between the Perkins TMD22A and the C drive unit. What changes have been made by those who successfully have replaced the Perkins with a Yamnar engine?


Thankyou


Best Regards

Barry & Robyn

Tradewinds III SM # 171