Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] re: Leaking Copper Tube - Holding Tank

Mark Erdos
 

Thanks Danny! Was your leak on the input side of the tank? Did you run into any issue with the fitting inside the tank?

 

Also, removing the old copper fitting – how was this done? Twisting and pulling or with a tool?

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Yacht: Cream Puff

 

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, January 09, 2016 2:52 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] re: Leaking Copper Tube - Holding Tank

 

 

Hi Mark,

I had same problem a few years ago. I was able to remove the copper pipe from the bottom of the tank.  I found a plastic spear the right size fitting with a threaded end that was a tight fit. I put that in with silicone of the type used to bed deck fittings. Had no problems since. If I remember correctly I had to peal a little fiberglass away to get the copper out.

Regards

Danny

SM 299 Ocean Pearl 
 

 


From: "'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Sunday, 10 January 2016 3:18 AM
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] re: Leaking Copper Tube - Holding Tank

 

 

 

Looking inside the tank, there is a U shaped hose attached to the inlet to push the waste upward. Does anyone know if this is the same copper tube (meaning the tube would be one piece and sleeved through the tank). If this is the case, it might be very difficult to remove.

 

 

 

I’m still at a bit of a lose as to how to begin this repair. Any insight is greatly appreciated.

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Super Maramu 2000

Hull #275

Currently cruising:  Green Turtle Cay – Abaco Islands - Bahamas

 

From: Mark Erdos [mailto:mcerdos@...]
Sent: Thursday, January 07, 2016 11:24 AM
To: 'amelyachtowners@...'
Subject: Leaking Copper Tube - Holding Tank

 

Oh, the joys of boat ownership…

 

I have a leak in the aft holding tank. The copper tube on the inlet side of the tank has a crack. Phew! I see where others have had a similar issue but don’t see the solution posted.

 

I have a couple of questions before I dive into this:

 

1)      How is the copper tube fastened to the tank? I do not see threads.

2)      What is the best way to remove the copper tube?

3)      What size tube do I need to replace this?

4)      What is the best way to insert and waterproof the replacement tube?

5)      I think something non-metallic might be a better material choice. Any suggestions?

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Super Maramu 2000

Hull #275

Currently cruising:  Green Turtle Cay – Abaco Islands - Bahamas

 

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] re: Leaking Copper Tube - Holding Tank

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Mark,
I had same problem a few years ago. I was able to remove the copper pipe from the bottom of the tank.  I found a plastic spear the right size fitting with a threaded end that was a tight fit. I put that in with silicone of the type used to bed deck fittings. Had no problems since. If I remember correctly I had to peal a little fiberglass away to get the copper out.
Regards
Danny
SM 299 Ocean Pearl 
 



From: "'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners]"
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Sunday, 10 January 2016 3:18 AM
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] re: Leaking Copper Tube - Holding Tank

 
 
Looking inside the tank, there is a U shaped hose attached to the inlet to push the waste upward. Does anyone know if this is the same copper tube (meaning the tube would be one piece and sleeved through the tank). If this is the case, it might be very difficult to remove.
 
 
 
I’m still at a bit of a lose as to how to begin this repair. Any insight is greatly appreciated.
 
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Super Maramu 2000
Hull #275
Currently cruising:  Green Turtle Cay – Abaco Islands - Bahamas
 
From: Mark Erdos [mailto:mcerdos@...]
Sent: Thursday, January 07, 2016 11:24 AM
To: 'amelyachtowners@...'
Subject: Leaking Copper Tube - Holding Tank
 
Oh, the joys of boat ownership…
 
I have a leak in the aft holding tank. The copper tube on the inlet side of the tank has a crack. Phew! I see where others have had a similar issue but don’t see the solution posted.
 
I have a couple of questions before I dive into this:
 
1)      How is the copper tube fastened to the tank? I do not see threads.
2)      What is the best way to remove the copper tube?
3)      What size tube do I need to replace this?
4)      What is the best way to insert and waterproof the replacement tube?
5)      I think something non-metallic might be a better material choice. Any suggestions?
 
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Super Maramu 2000
Hull #275
Currently cruising:  Green Turtle Cay – Abaco Islands - Bahamas
 



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Combination anchor tri color light

Siviero Attilio <attilio.siviero@...>
 

Also NASA Marine, in Europe, has a product like this, see at http://www.nasamarine.com/proddetail.php?prod=Supernova, much less expensive. I have it, not fitted yet.

Attilio & Maria Siviero 
Amel Santorin#84 “Sisila” in Rhodes


Il giorno 08 gen 2016, alle ore 13:07, sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> ha scritto:

Hi Mark,

Yes, I've seen that too, but I'm sure the Manufacturer's specification of 10 to 28 volts is correct and the resellers have mistakenly posted it as 12 v through lack of familiarity with the product. 

I noticed a couple of resellers even copied the manufacturer's spec of 10-28v onto their sites and then added their own incorrect spec of 12v.

If you're uncomfortable with the info just contact Meghan Matthews, the owner of OGM, through the website. 

I used no voltage stabilizer (the SN is 12v, so transformer not an issue).   

Cheers,
Craig Briggs


---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

Craig,
Thanks for this referral. I had looked at these but was unsure about the voltage. On the resellers sites it list voltage specs as 9-16 vdc. 

On the OGM website it lists voltage specs as 10-28 vdc. Did you use a step down transformer or voltage stabilizer for your 24v installation? 

With best regards,
Mark
Super Maramu 2000 Hull #275 
www.creampuff.us  Currently cruising: Green Turtle Cay – Abaco Islands - Bahamas

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] 
Sent: Thursday, January 07, 2016 9:47 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Combination anchor tri color light
---In amelyachtowners@..., <mcerdos@...> wrote :

.....So at this point, I am looking at anything but Aquasignal. 

If you research a replacement unit and find something worthwhile, please post.

With best regards,
Mark
___________________________________________________

Mark and others - I'd highly recommend the OGM (Orca Green Marine) line. The intensity and frequency of the light make its visibility fantastic.  

We've got the TriColor/Anchor/Strobe/Photodiode (automatic anchor on-at-dusk off-at-dawn) combination model LXTA-SP. It's designed for 10 to 28 volts, (no DC voltage regulator needed) and draws only 0.33 amps at 12v (that's 0.16 at 24v on a SM.)

They list for $419US ($399 without the photodiode, but you'll want the photodiode) and you need their $49 switch and $40 bracket. Website is orcagreen dot com and they sell through the usual channels (West Marine, Defender's, etc.)

Installation is easy. Simply drill and tap (or thru-bolt) the bracket to the mast head plate, splice the supplied connector to the existing wires (using the +'s from the anchor and tricolor circuits and a -) and plug it in. The switch easily fits next to the existing panel.

Company is small and was very responsive after our first one was fried by lightning. Understandably no guarantee for that but company owner Meghan Matthews gave me a good discount on a replacement.

Cheers, Craig Briggs, SN#68 Sangaris

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Re: Leaking Copper Tube - Holding Tank

Mark Erdos
 

As an afterthought on this, does anyone know if the holding tank is removable?

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Super Maramu 2000

Hull #275

www.creampuff.us

Currently cruising: Green Turtle Cay – Abaco Islands - Bahamas

 

From: Mark Erdos [mailto:mcerdos@...]
Sent: Saturday, January 09, 2016 9:19 AM
To: 'amelyachtowners@...'
Subject: re: Leaking Copper Tube - Holding Tank

 

 

Looking inside the tank, there is a U shaped hose attached to the inlet to push the waste upward. Does anyone know if this is the same copper tube (meaning the tube would be one piece and sleeved through the tank). If this is the case, it might be very difficult to remove.

 

 

 

I’m still at a bit of a lose as to how to begin this repair. Any insight is greatly appreciated.

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Super Maramu 2000

Hull #275

www.creampuff.us

Currently cruising:  Green Turtle Cay – Abaco Islands - Bahamas

 

From: Mark Erdos [mailto:mcerdos@...]
Sent: Thursday, January 07, 2016 11:24 AM
To: 'amelyachtowners@...'
Subject: Leaking Copper Tube - Holding Tank

 

Oh, the joys of boat ownership…

 

I have a leak in the aft holding tank. The copper tube on the inlet side of the tank has a crack. Phew! I see where others have had a similar issue but don’t see the solution posted.

 

I have a couple of questions before I dive into this:

 

1)      How is the copper tube fastened to the tank? I do not see threads.

2)      What is the best way to remove the copper tube?

3)      What size tube do I need to replace this?

4)      What is the best way to insert and waterproof the replacement tube?

5)      I think something non-metallic might be a better material choice. Any suggestions?

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Super Maramu 2000

Hull #275

www.creampuff.us

Currently cruising:  Green Turtle Cay – Abaco Islands - Bahamas

 


Fakir Heater Manual

william_maffei@...
 

Anybody have a copy of the manual they could upload to the forum for the Fakir Hobby S heater? 


Bill Maffei

SM #195 

It's all Good


Re: Leaking Copper Tube - Holding Tank

Mark Erdos
 

 

Looking inside the tank, there is a U shaped hose attached to the inlet to push the waste upward. Does anyone know if this is the same copper tube (meaning the tube would be one piece and sleeved through the tank). If this is the case, it might be very difficult to remove.

 

 

 

I’m still at a bit of a lose as to how to begin this repair. Any insight is greatly appreciated.

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Super Maramu 2000

Hull #275

www.creampuff.us

Currently cruising:  Green Turtle Cay – Abaco Islands - Bahamas

 

From: Mark Erdos [mailto:mcerdos@...]
Sent: Thursday, January 07, 2016 11:24 AM
To: 'amelyachtowners@...'
Subject: Leaking Copper Tube - Holding Tank

 

Oh, the joys of boat ownership…

 

I have a leak in the aft holding tank. The copper tube on the inlet side of the tank has a crack. Phew! I see where others have had a similar issue but don’t see the solution posted.

 

I have a couple of questions before I dive into this:

 

1)      How is the copper tube fastened to the tank? I do not see threads.

2)      What is the best way to remove the copper tube?

3)      What size tube do I need to replace this?

4)      What is the best way to insert and waterproof the replacement tube?

5)      I think something non-metallic might be a better material choice. Any suggestions?

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Super Maramu 2000

Hull #275

www.creampuff.us

Currently cruising:  Green Turtle Cay – Abaco Islands - Bahamas

 


Rig work

kanalmamman@...
 

SV Delos has made 3 youTube films about changing the rig. I have only seen the third (lack of internet.....)

It is well worht seeing!

Here is a URL to the third episode, the other two you can easily find on theire YouTube account.


63. SV Delos Sailing- Changing Our Rig (3 of 3)


/Annsofie

S/Y Lady Annila, SM232, 1998



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Changes to Yahoo

Neale Michael <michaelneale256@...>
 

Gary,

Well done. Thanks for your efforts.

Mike Neale

On Jan 8, 2016, at 5:16 AM, gary@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Hi James, If we go to the new board, it is a completely autonomous system s leo there will be no connectivity to Yahoo at all. A new registration altogether. The good thing is that the user names are not all taken up :)



Alain,  thanks for the kudos.  The board is quick right now because it's empty :)  I do not have a second validation level in place yet, which would be "Admin Approval" meaning I would have to validate each request. I think since we are all here at Yahoo already, I wouldn't have to worry about that part until a while later when the word gets out about the new site and there might be trouble with another hacker attempt. The 'bots' can't get in because of the 'prove you're a human' step before posting your first ten messages. A bit of a pain, but it'll pass.

I successfully captured the board here. Not terribly current, but I was practicing.  It is a bit of a headache, and I cannot figure a way to import it directly to the SMF database. It's just not compatible. The support forum on SMF is helpful in suggesting a couple of work arounds, but the way Yahoo appends the message strings makes it difficult to figure a method to get it into a database, or spreadsheet for that matter. I know why they use that method (it's incredibly space efficient) but it makes indexing pretty tough.

Having said that, I have all the messages through December 20th captured and in a database structure. I can send that to anyone who would like to see if they could deconstruct it and make it work in MySQL.
It wouldn't be out of the question to set up an entire sub-board with a separate database that we could link to.

Now... I did get to make searchable web pages and a single PDF file with all the captured messages. I posted links to them on the new board.  It is possible now to have a full, searchable .pdf in your hands. It is a huge file so I would not advise deciding to print it out for reference :)

And to clarify, IF there is a donation option, it should go to whoever is incurring hosting costs and paying for the domain, bandwidth and and any 'in app' purchase to enhance functionality. At this moment that's me (our board is not affiliated with SMF at all, except that we are using their open source software and they get to keep their logo on it). 
I'm into this for about $50 total right now and my time.  Other than that, the hosting is free, the bandwidth is free, the email is free; all part of my existing plan.  Once (if) the board gets huge and starts seeing a lot of traffic I may have to notch up the plan and only then would the "donate here" button pop up.  In the long term, I would set up an account to receive money, and have the ISP draw from it. 

Gary W.
SM 209 "Adagio"
BVI 





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Changes to Yahoo

Gary Wells
 

Hi Graham, If we go to the new board, it is a completely autonomous system so there will be no connectivity to Yahoo at all. A new registration altogether. The good thing is that the user names are not all taken up :)


Alain,  thanks for the kudos.  The board is quick right now because it's empty :)  I do not have a second validation level in place yet, which would be "Admin Approval" meaning I would have to validate each request. I think since we are all here at Yahoo already, I wouldn't have to worry about that part until a while later when the word gets out about the new site and there might be trouble with another hacker attempt. The 'bots' can't get in because of the 'prove you're a human' step before posting your first ten messages. A bit of a pain, but it'll pass.

I successfully captured the board here. Not terribly current, but I was practicing.  It is a bit of a headache, and I cannot figure a way to import it directly to the SMF database. It's just not compatible. The support forum on SMF is helpful in suggesting a couple of work arounds, but the way Yahoo appends the message strings makes it difficult to figure a method to get it into a database, or spreadsheet for that matter. I know why they use that method (it's incredibly space efficient) but it makes indexing pretty tough.

Having said that, I have all the messages through December 20th captured and in a database structure. I can send that to anyone who would like to see if they could deconstruct it and make it work in MySQL.
It wouldn't be out of the question to set up an entire sub-board with a separate database that we could link to.

Now... I did get to make searchable web pages and a single PDF file with all the captured messages. I posted links to them on the new board.  It is possible now to have a full, searchable .pdf in your hands. It is a huge file so I would not advise deciding to print it out for reference :)

And to clarify, IF there is a donation option, it should go to whoever is incurring hosting costs and paying for the domain, bandwidth and and any 'in app' purchase to enhance functionality. At this moment that's me (our board is not affiliated with SMF at all, except that we are using their open source software and they get to keep their logo on it). 
I'm into this for about $50 total right now and my time.  Other than that, the hosting is free, the bandwidth is free, the email is free; all part of my existing plan.  Once (if) the board gets huge and starts seeing a lot of traffic I may have to notch up the plan and only then would the "donate here" button pop up.  In the long term, I would set up an account to receive money, and have the ISP draw from it. 

Gary W.
SM 209 "Adagio"
BVI 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Changes to Yahoo

Graham Cresswell <grahamjcresswell@...>
 

Gary,

Do I make a completely new registration or do I use the username and password that I use for Yahoo groups?

Regards

Graham
M240 "Jamesby"


On 06/01/2016 00:17, gary@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:
 

www dot amelowners dot net  ... it's a proof of concept right now.  If it comes to pass that 


a) folks like the new format
b) I can figure out how to transfer data from the old to the new format
c) I can find a couple of helpers to moderate the board

then I think we should consider wandering over to this kind of forum.

Gary W.
SM 209 "Adagio"




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Combination anchor tri color light

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Mark,
Yes, I've seen that too, but I'm sure the Manufacturer's specification of 10 to 28 volts is correct and the resellers have mistakenly posted it as 12 v through lack of familiarity with the product. 

I noticed a couple of resellers even copied the manufacturer's spec of 10-28v onto their sites and then added their own incorrect spec of 12v.

If you're uncomfortable with the info just contact Meghan Matthews, the owner of OGM, through the website. 

I used no voltage stabilizer (the SN is 12v, so transformer not an issue).   

Cheers,
Craig Briggs


---In amelyachtowners@..., <mcerdos@...> wrote :

Craig,
Thanks for this referral. I had looked at these but was unsure about the voltage. On the resellers sites it list voltage specs as 9-16 vdc.

On the OGM website it lists voltage specs as 10-28 vdc. Did you use a step down transformer or voltage stabilizer for your 24v installation?

With best regards,
Mark
Super Maramu 2000 Hull #275 
www.creampuff.us  Currently cruising: Green Turtle Cay – Abaco Islands - Bahamas


From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, January 07, 2016 9:47 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Combination anchor tri color light
---In amelyachtowners@..., <mcerdos@...> wrote :

.....So at this point, I am looking at anything but Aquasignal.

If you research a replacement unit and find something worthwhile, please post.

With best regards,
Mark
___________________________________________________

Mark and others - I'd highly recommend the OGM (Orca Green Marine) line. The intensity and frequency of the light make its visibility fantastic.

We've got the TriColor/Anchor/Strobe/Photodiode (automatic anchor on-at-dusk off-at-dawn) combination model LXTA-SP. It's designed for 10 to 28 volts, (no DC voltage regulator needed) and draws only 0.33 amps at 12v (that's 0.16 at 24v on a SM.)

They list for $419US ($399 without the photodiode, but you'll want the photodiode) and you need their $49 switch and $40 bracket. Website is orcagreen dot com and they sell through the usual channels (West Marine, Defender's, etc.)

Installation is easy. Simply drill and tap (or thru-bolt) the bracket to the mast head plate, splice the supplied connector to the existing wires (using the +'s from the anchor and tricolor circuits and a -) and plug it in. The switch easily fits next to the existing panel.

Company is small and was very responsive after our first one was fried by lightning. Understandably no guarantee for that but company owner Meghan Matthews gave me a good discount on a replacement.

Cheers, Craig Briggs, SN#68 Sangaris

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Changes to Yahoo

alainfeuillet@...
 

All right Gary,
I re-registered very easily. I received a validation email in the next 30 seconds. Excellent performance. One safety question: did it come so rapidly after a verification/comparison with a list of known adresses, because you were on line or because there was no verification?

For messages transfer did you have a look to the link http://www.groupfetch.com/products/ydl/index.php ? it seems to be able to change the YAHOO format because it claims being able to deliver the download messages under Outook and Thunderbird format. If you wish I can make a trial.
Also the SMF team may adress this certainly frequent question ... if they answer. God test about support.

If you need any kind of help just ask.

For donation, I understand you suggest to donate to SMF, correct? If so, it may be interesting to open a thread called eg "SMF donation", where we can record as we donate in order to have knowledge about the group position versus donation... or any other kind of light info system reaching this target.

Cheers
Alain (PILGRIM)


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Leaking Copper Tube - Holding Tank

Mark Erdos
 

Hi Will,

 

JBWeld is awesome stuff. I have plenty aboard. On our previous boat, I fixed the same scenario with JBWeld and it lasted for 10 + years. Unfortunately, the crack in the tube is at the top and if I use JBWeld I think it may bond the copper to the bottom of the holding tank with it.

 

I found on the forum where Ian had resolved the same issue. I am hoping he can chime in from his experience.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Yacht: Cream Puff

 

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, January 07, 2016 6:33 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Leaking Copper Tube - Holding Tank

 

 

Mark,
Evidently the previous owner of my boat removed the copper pipe and installed flexible (yellow in color) in both heads. It looks like he might have left enough copper to fit the hose and hose clamp it! The flex pipe connects right at the bottom of the funnel that drains the holding tank. The funnel and inlet look to be fiberglass. I can send you a few photos if they would be helpful. FYI, I once did a quick repair on a sink drain which was copper with JBWeld intending to replace the pipe when the quick fix failed 8 years later the JBWeld is still holding!

Will Stout
Anni Bea True
SM180
St Martin, FWI


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Leaking Copper Tube - Holding Tank

tango708@...
 

Mark,
Evidently the previous owner of my boat removed the copper pipe and installed flexible (yellow in color) in both heads. It looks like he might have left enough copper to fit the hose and hose clamp it! The flex pipe connects right at the bottom of the funnel that drains the holding tank. The funnel and inlet look to be fiberglass. I can send you a few photos if they would be helpful. FYI, I once did a quick repair on a sink drain which was copper with JBWeld intending to replace the pipe when the quick fix failed 8 years later the JBWeld is still holding!

Will Stout
Anni Bea True
SM180
St Martin, FWI


Re: Combination anchor tri color light

tango708@...
 

Thank you , Miles!


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Leaking Copper Tube - Holding Tank

Mark Erdos
 

Have you thought about removing the aft tank altogether?  “

 

I would prefer to fix the tank I have, if at all possible

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Super Maramu 2000

Hull #275

www.creampuff.us

Currently cruising:  Green Turtle Cay – Abaco Islands - Bahamas

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, January 07, 2016 11:36 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Leaking Copper Tube - Holding Tank

 

 

Hello Mark,

 

I had a Vetus tank fitted to the forward WC only… my old girl did not have one!

 

BUT, I made sure all connections are flexible… to prevent what has happened to you.

 

Have you thought about removing the aft tank altogether?  

 

Good luck.

 

 

Jean-Pierre Germain,

SY Eleuthera, Amel Super Maramu 007

 

 

On 7 Jan 2016, at 17:23, 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 

 

Oh, the joys of boat ownership…

 

I have a leak in the aft holding tank. The copper tube on the inlet side of the tank has a crack. Phew! I see where others have had a similar issue but don’t see the solution posted.

 

I have a couple of questions before I dive into this:

 

1)      How is the copper tube fastened to the tank? I do not see threads.

2)      What is the best way to remove the copper tube?

3)      What size tube do I need to replace this?

4)      What is the best way to insert and waterproof the replacement tube?

5)      I think something non-metallic might be a better material choice. Any suggestions?

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Super Maramu 2000

Hull #275

Currently cruising:  Green Turtle Cay – Abaco Islands - Bahamas

 

 

 

 


Re: Combination anchor tri color light

Miles
 

Hi Will,

 

Four years ago I replaced my original mast-head light with a Signal Mate Tri-color and anchor light.  It has a two mile visibility  (much brighter than the original) and has worked flawlessly.  To install the new light, I removed the original light that sat in a fixed ring and had a plastic ring fabricated to fit inside of the fixed ring.  The plastic ring  was made to have an inside diameter that is just big enough to hold the new light.  I glued the new ring inside of the old ring,  connected the wires,  and inserted the new light with lots of silicone sealer.    The new light also uses almost no electricity.  It is a joy to be able to have the lights on all night without running down the batteries.

 

Miles  SM 216  Ladybug

On the hard in Newport, RI and wishing for the tropics.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Combination anchor tri color light

Mark Erdos
 

Craig,



Thanks for this referral. I had looked at these but was unsure about the voltage. On the resellers sites it list voltage specs as 9-16 vdc.

On the OGM website it lists voltage specs as 10-28 vdc. Did you use a step down transformer or voltage stabilizer for your 24v installation?







With best regards,



Mark



Super Maramu 2000

Hull #275

www.creampuff.us

Currently cruising: Green Turtle Cay – Abaco Islands - Bahamas



From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Thursday, January 07, 2016 9:47 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Combination anchor tri color light





---In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, <mcerdos@...> wrote :

.....So at this point, I am looking at anything but Aquasignal.

If you research a replacement unit and find something worthwhile, please post.

With best regards,

Mark

___________________________________________________

Mark and others - I'd highly recommend the OGM (Orca Green Marine) line. The intensity and frequency of the light make its visibility fantastic.

We've got the TriColor/Anchor/Strobe/Photodiode (automatic anchor on-at-dusk off-at-dawn) combination model LXTA-SP. It's designed for 10 to 28 volts, (no DC voltage regulator needed) and draws only 0.33 amps at 12v (that's 0.16 at 24v on a SM.)

They list for $419US ($399 without the photodiode, but you'll want the photodiode) and you need their $49 switch and $40 bracket. Website is orcagreen dot com and they sell through the usual channels (West Marine, Defender's, etc.)

Installation is easy. Simply drill and tap (or thru-bolt) the bracket to the mast head plate, splice the supplied connector to the existing wires (using the +'s from the anchor and tricolor circuits and a -) and plug it in. The switch easily fits next to the existing panel.

Company is small and was very responsive after our first one was fried by lightning. Understandably no guarantee for that but company owner Meghan Matthews gave me a good discount on a replacement.

Cheers, Craig Briggs, SN#68 Sangaris









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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Leaking Copper Tube - Holding Tank

Germain Jean-Pierre <jgermain@...>
 

Hello Mark,

I had a Vetus tank fitted to the forward WC only… my old girl did not have one!

BUT, I made sure all connections are flexible… to prevent what has happened to you.

Have you thought about removing the aft tank altogether?  

Good luck.


Jean-Pierre Germain,
SY Eleuthera, Amel Super Maramu 007


On 7 Jan 2016, at 17:23, 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Oh, the joys of boat ownership…
 
I have a leak in the aft holding tank. The copper tube on the inlet side of the tank has a crack. Phew! I see where others have had a similar issue but don’t see the solution posted.
 
I have a couple of questions before I dive into this:
 
1)      How is the copper tube fastened to the tank? I do not see threads.
2)      What is the best way to remove the copper tube?
3)      What size tube do I need to replace this?
4)      What is the best way to insert and waterproof the replacement tube?
5)      I think something non-metallic might be a better material choice. Any suggestions?
 
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Super Maramu 2000
Hull #275
Currently cruising:  Green Turtle Cay – Abaco Islands - Bahamas
 




Leaking Copper Tube - Holding Tank

Mark Erdos
 

Oh, the joys of boat ownership…

 

I have a leak in the aft holding tank. The copper tube on the inlet side of the tank has a crack. Phew! I see where others have had a similar issue but don’t see the solution posted.

 

I have a couple of questions before I dive into this:

 

1)      How is the copper tube fastened to the tank? I do not see threads.

2)      What is the best way to remove the copper tube?

3)      What size tube do I need to replace this?

4)      What is the best way to insert and waterproof the replacement tube?

5)      I think something non-metallic might be a better material choice. Any suggestions?

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Super Maramu 2000

Hull #275

www.creampuff.us

Currently cruising:  Green Turtle Cay – Abaco Islands - Bahamas