Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Engine Problems Amel 54

eric freedman
 

Jamie,

Did you actually take the head off the engine and look at the cylinders and valves?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, December 03, 2015 9:27 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Engine Problems Amel 54

 

 

Jamie, Sorry you're having to deal with this but glad a solution is finally in sight. I don't know if the 54 engine and electrical system is ground-isolated like the SM, but if so, then as others will attest, make sure that your new engine installation and all of it's components, bolt-ons and accessories are ground-isolated too.
Jim
SM 384 Sirena Azul


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Connecting B&G 2000 With Autohelm 7000

seafeverofcuan@...
 

Sorry Duane,
                   I only sent you half of the message. Press start and auto together and you should see "wind" appear on the display.
The autopilot did not come with this as standard, but you can easily reto fit the piece of software.
Trevor


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Connecting B&G 2000 With Autohelm 7000

seafeverofcuan@...
 

Duane,
          Do you know if you have the wind steering option on Wanderer?

Trevor
Seafever
SM425
Mexico


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Connecting B&G 2000 With Autohelm 7000

Andrew & Kate Lamb
 

As I recall there is a button on the autopilot control “WV” for wind vane then it steers a course relative to the wind and has already worked out the angle of the wind and what tack you are on. However I guess this may vary depending on what autopilot computer you have.

 

Andrew

 

 

Ronpische

SM2k 472

Canet en Roussillion, France

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, December 03, 2015 6:01 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Connecting B&G 2000 With Autohelm 7000

 

 

Andrew,

How do you switch the Autohelm from compass to wind angle control?

Duane
Wanderer SM#477


Re: Connecting B&G 2000 With Autohelm 7000

Duane Siegfri
 

Andrew,

How do you switch the Autohelm from compass to wind angle control?

Duane
Wanderer SM#477


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Connecting B&G 2000 With Autohelm 7000

Ann-Sofie Svanberg <kanalmamman@...>
 

Hi Paul
We always sail on the wind angel. So it is possible.

Den kabeln som har NMEA vinddata kopplas till kontrollenheten i sittbrunnen och inte till kursdatorn. För detaljerad inkopplings instruktion se manualen.

/Ann-Sofie
@Lady Annila, SM232, 1998
Present in Licata, Sicilly.




Skickat från min iPad

3 dec. 2015 kl. 16:14 skrev osterberg.paul.l@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

Hello!

Is it possible to connect the B&G NMEA out put with the NMEA input on the Autohelm 7000 to have it steer according to wind angle? if not is it anyone who have the Autohelm wind vane? is it a good alternative.

I think it's good to be able to steer according to wind angle during long passage especially at night


Paul on S/Y Kerpa SM#259




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Connecting B&G 2000 With Autohelm 7000

Andrew & Kate Lamb
 

Hi

 

That is one of the first things I did when we bought our boat and wondered why it had not been done as standard but it meant running a twisted pair of wires from the B&G display at the chart table to the autopilot controller. Works well.

 

Andrew

 

 

Ronpische

SM2k 472

Canet en Roussillion, France

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, December 03, 2015 4:14 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Connecting B&G 2000 With Autohelm 7000

 

 

Hello!

Is it possible to connect the B&G NMEA out put with the NMEA input on the Autohelm 7000 to have it steer according to wind angle? if not is it anyone who have the Autohelm wind vane? is it a good alternative.

I think it's good to be able to steer according to wind angle during long passage especially at night

 

Paul on S/Y Kerpa SM#259

 

 


Connecting B&G 2000 With Autohelm 7000

Paul Osterberg
 

Hello!

Is it possible to connect the B&G NMEA out put with the NMEA input on the Autohelm 7000 to have it steer according to wind angle? if not is it anyone who have the Autohelm wind vane? is it a good alternative.

I think it's good to be able to steer according to wind angle during long passage especially at night


Paul on S/Y Kerpa SM#259




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Engine Problems Amel 54

James Wendell <ms42phantom54@...>
 

Jim, I not certain I understand what you mean by "ground-isolated?" The engine frame will be tied to DC earth of course through the battery DC negative feed to the starter, as well as through the alternator, unless I have an isolated alternator. That is not likely standard issue.

Can you clarify?
Thanks,
Jamie



On Thursday, December 3, 2015 9:26 AM, "capt.anderson@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:


 
Jamie, Sorry you're having to deal with this but glad a solution is finally in sight. I don't know if the 54 engine and electrical system is ground-isolated like the SM, but if so, then as others will attest, make sure that your new engine installation and all of it's components, bolt-ons and accessories are ground-isolated too.
Jim
SM 384 Sirena Azul



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Prop Shaft Electrolysis

James Wendell <ms42phantom54@...>
 

Kent, again thanks for the kind words about my engine failure on Phantom. Just to confirm my comments, I am not suggesting the exhaust design was necessarily at fault, but in my case the layout of the system certainly could have exacerbated my engine failure. In any event, if I can take steps to improve with my new engine, I will.

If I can comment on your AC findings, I understand that Amel deliberately does not connect the AC earth to the DC bonding grid. That, of course, is totally opposite from US regulations that mandate that connection for safety, a practice to which I fully subscribe as an electrical engineer. There is also the absolute "no-no" of connecting AC neutral to earth anywhere on the boat unless you have an isolation transformer.

The exception, however, is at a separately-derived power source. For a shore power connection, the neutral-to-earth bond would be at the shore power source in the marina. For a generator, it would be at the generator. When the automatic transfer switch (ATS) is in shore power mode, it ensures the neutral is connected only to the shore power feeder and not the boat. It also ensures the grounding systems are not interconnected, since the neutral is not connected to the boat systems. Further the generator case will be connected to earth, since the battery negative for the starter lands on the frame. When the ATS is switched to generator, the neutral "should" be tied to AC earth, since it "should" be bonded to PE at the generator. You should verify the connection between the blue neutral wire and the green/yellow PE. If it is connected you are safe; if not, and you had a fault in an AC circuit to earth, the neutral would not have a return path to its source and the AC current would try to find an alternate path - not good.

Many don't I know, but technically an inverter is a separately-derived power source, and the neutral there should be tied to earth as well. The problem is that most inverters also function in pass-through mode.

I hope that helps. Let me know what you find.

s/v Phantom Amel 54



On Thursday, December 3, 2015 7:42 AM, "karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:


 
Well, I have separated all the 220AC ground wires at the 220 box in the galley and at the 220 boxes in the engine room. I found that the output cable from the generator is grounded to the generator case, and thus, to the bonding system. The other end of that cable goes to the automatic switch that chooses generator over shore power, where it is connected to all other 220 grounds via the output from the switch.
This violates my understanding that the 220AC ground should NOT be connected to the bonding system. Now what????

Kent
SM243
Kristy



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Engine Problems Amel 54

Jim Anderson
 

Jamie, Sorry you're having to deal with this but glad a solution is finally in sight. I don't know if the 54 engine and electrical system is ground-isolated like the SM, but if so, then as others will attest, make sure that your new engine installation and all of it's components, bolt-ons and accessories are ground-isolated too.
Jim
SM 384 Sirena Azul


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Prop Shaft Electrolysis

karkauai
 

Well, I have separated all the 220AC ground wires at the 220 box in the galley and at the 220 boxes in the engine room. I found that the output cable from the generator is grounded to the generator case, and thus, to the bonding system. The other end of that cable goes to the automatic switch that chooses generator over shore power, where it is connected to all other 220 grounds via the output from the switch.
This violates my understanding that the 220AC ground should NOT be connected to the bonding system. Now what????

Kent
SM243
Kristy


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Engine Problems Amel 54

karkauai
 

What a bummer!  My heart goes out to you, Jamie.

I've never heard of this happening on another Amel.  Has anyone else?  If not, it's hard to blame it on a design flaw.
Kent
SM 243
Kristy 


On Dec 2, 2015, at 7:04 PM, ms42phantom54@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Trevor, trust me I am well aware of the risks of cranking a no-start engine with sea water being drawn in. I was very careful to avoid water buildup in the muffler and exhaust at all times.


The engine would not start a week after it had run for 4 days, and that could not have been caused by excessive cranking. I did not try to start it in the interim, and when I did I carefully drained the muffler or shut off the raw water intake valve after a few attempts to get it going. And I kept draining it periodically as we tested and tested. If it had filled up with water during that time, the engine would have seized. I have seen engines do that before, and it is almost like having a dead battery. The engine will not even turn over. In my case here, the engine has always cranked just fine but never even coughed after the run up from Florida in June.

My service guy suggested that it could have been a long time in the making (possibly from weak compression) and it could have gotten worse during the trip up from Florida. I ran it fairly hard during the trip after the sea trial problems, which obviously would have increased exhaust back pressure and reduced the exhaust efficiency at higher RPM, especially if the engine compression was not up to par. He suggested, as well, that sitting for a week with any sort of "backwash" water (even heavy vapor if you will) could have caused it to fail. Again, short of tearing the engine down, he cannot say for sure. But we have ruled out every other possibility we can think of, including all those who have offered suggestions and lent support from the group. I am out of options now. There is nothing else to test or try.

I do not want to de-Amel my boat (I have been trying to keep to the design philosophy Henri set in place in all that I do), but I do need to ensure that water does not get into the engine in the future. If that means a bit of rework of the exhaust as I install my new engine, well then I need to do that for my boat. No one and no engineers are correct all the time. And, as you know, each boat is different in how it behaves. I have to deal with what I have. A new engine is expensive but clearly not an undesirable thing..............

Thanks for the support.
Jamie




 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Engine Problems Amel 54

seafeverofcuan@...
 

Jamie,
         I really appreciate you taking the time to write such a comprehensive reply.
Thank you.
Will keep my fingers crossed that it all goes well.
Good luck.
Trevor


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Engine Problems Amel 54

ms42phantom54@...
 

Trevor, trust me I am well aware of the risks of cranking a no-start engine with sea water being drawn in. I was very careful to avoid water buildup in the muffler and exhaust at all times.

The engine would not start a week after it had run for 4 days, and that could not have been caused by excessive cranking. I did not try to start it in the interim, and when I did I carefully drained the muffler or shut off the raw water intake valve after a few attempts to get it going. And I kept draining it periodically as we tested and tested. If it had filled up with water during that time, the engine would have seized. I have seen engines do that before, and it is almost like having a dead battery. The engine will not even turn over. In my case here, the engine has always cranked just fine but never even coughed after the run up from Florida in June.

My service guy suggested that it could have been a long time in the making (possibly from weak compression) and it could have gotten worse during the trip up from Florida. I ran it fairly hard during the trip after the sea trial problems, which obviously would have increased exhaust back pressure and reduced the exhaust efficiency at higher RPM, especially if the engine compression was not up to par. He suggested, as well, that sitting for a week with any sort of "backwash" water (even heavy vapor if you will) could have caused it to fail. Again, short of tearing the engine down, he cannot say for sure. But we have ruled out every other possibility we can think of, including all those who have offered suggestions and lent support from the group. I am out of options now. There is nothing else to test or try.

I do not want to de-Amel my boat (I have been trying to keep to the design philosophy Henri set in place in all that I do), but I do need to ensure that water does not get into the engine in the future. If that means a bit of rework of the exhaust as I install my new engine, well then I need to do that for my boat. No one and no engineers are correct all the time. And, as you know, each boat is different in how it behaves. I have to deal with what I have. A new engine is expensive but clearly not an undesirable thing..............

Thanks for the support.
Jamie




 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Engine Problems Amel 54

seafeverofcuan@...
 

Jamie,
          That is just about the worst result possible. You have enough expense in front of you, before you start to re-engineer Amel re. the exhaust etc. could you ask your technician to asses just how much of that damage would be as a result of all the cranking that has gone on trying to start the engine.
If the the engine wasn't starting the raw water had to keep building up in the exhaust and backing up to the engine. There have been thousands of marine engines - especially in power boats destroyed that way.
At least you now have a fair idea of what you are dealing with regarding the engine, I would respectfully suggest to review the suggestions re. the exhaust system.
Best wishes,
Trevor

Seafever
SM 425
Mexico


Re: Engine Problems Amel 54

Duane Siegfri
 

James,

I'm glad you finally found the problem, it had to be a trial!  My sympathies on the new engine.  If possible it would be great if you could post a few photos of the new muffler arrangement.

You have me wondering if the other Super Maramu owners here have had any issues?  The SM Owners Manual warns against this issue and recommends starting the engine twice a day and running for a short period to clear any water in the exhaust hose.

Comments anyone?

Duane
Wanderer, SM#477


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Engine Problems Amel 54

James Wendell <ms42phantom54@...>
 

By the way, as you know I have been unable to start my engine since I left Florida in June. Today my outfit of choice here in Annapolis (Bay Shore) finally agreed to help and ran a whole bunch of engine tests (verified the pressure sensor, crank sensor, and injectors, etc.). After much head scratching, it appears that raw water from the exhaust system has been slowly migrating back into the intercooler, thereby injecting salt water into the intake manifold. Over time, that has likely caused valve seat damage, piston damage, and even cylinder wall damage. Without taking the engine apart we cannot prove that, but there are salt crystals and corrosion at the mixer fittings adjacent to the turbo. It should be dry. My mechanic (this time a really good one who really investigated the problem) felt the exhaust hose was mounted too high with a lot of resistance. He also felt the muffler was too small, and the type installed is apparently prone to backup over time. I don't blame anyone really, but it is a lesson learned (although an expensive one for sure).

I will be installing a new engine and addressing the installation issues to ensure this sort of thing does not happen again. We will be installing a "drum type" Vetus muffler with a short exhaust hose directly to the outlet on the port side. The one that loops up and over the engine wall is not good. Not sure if you want to investigate your's, but I can see how water could "bounce" back into the engine if the exhaust system is not breathing freely.





On Friday, November 20, 2015 7:34 PM, "Ric Gottschalk ric@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:


 
Portside is just before Jabins

Ric Gottschalk
Kitchen Magic Refacers, Inc
Office 410-923-5800
Fax 410-923-5802

On Nov 20, 2015, at 5:26 PM, James Wendell ms42phantom54@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 
I will try again on Monday. There was no answering system.

I am in Annapolis at Bert Jabins Yacht Yard

Thanks Ric,
Jamie Wendell



On Friday, November 20, 2015 4:50 PM, "Ric Gottschalk ric@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


 
His email is portsidemar@... and the number is 410-263-3302. Someone not always in office, but you can leave a message. Email me directly and I I will help. Where is your boat?
Ric
SN24 Bali Hai Hartges Yacht Yard,
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, November 20, 2015 3:38 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Engine Problems Amel 54
 
 
Well I tried both numbers. The 263-3300 gives me "The Soccer Court." The other never picks up.
Not sure?
Jamie
 
 
On Friday, November 20, 2015 2:58 PM, "Ric Gottschalk ric@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
 
He is in Annapolis 410-263-3300 Chri Oliver Jr or CO2 on Edgewood Road 
Cheers!

Ric Gottschalk
Kitchen Magic Refacers, Inc
Office 410-923-5800
Fax 410-923-5802

On Nov 20, 2015, at 1:38 PM, James Wendell ms42phantom54@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
Ric, I just called them, at least I think this is the Portside Marine you are referencing.
They do not support Volvo Penta diesels - only gasoline. Plus they are in Massachusetts and I am in Maryland.
Thanks for the tip though.
Do I have the wrong outfit?
Jamie
 
 
On Friday, November 20, 2015 1:31 PM, "James Wendell ms42phantom54@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
 
I have not. I will do so right now.
Thanks,
Jamie
 
 
On Friday, November 20, 2015 9:09 AM, "Ric Gottschalk ric@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
 
I assume you contacted Portside Marine. Yes, he is busy, but he is your best answer and a perkins/volvo pro. 
Bali Hai Annapolis

Ric Gottschalk
Kitchen Magic Refacers, Inc
Office 410-923-5800
Fax 410-923-5802

On Nov 20, 2015, at 7:40 AM, James Wendell ms42phantom54@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
Trevor, that is quite a story. When I arrived in Annapolis in June, there were many severe thunderstorms and they went on for weeks as I recall. In fact we passed through a really bad one on our way up the Chesapeake and had to "tread water" for several hours until it passed. We were not hit fortunately.
 
I left the boat for a week when we arrived, so I suppose it is possible the boat was hit. If so though, I saw no evidence other than that possible failed sensor on the engine. It does not really seem plausible to me - why just the rail sensor.
 
It is interesting though that several folks out there have experienced a rail pressure sensor failure (for various reasons apparently) and yet the VODIA tests found nothing wrong. The Volvo techs (good or not so good) should not have to systematically change out engine parts to find an electrical problem. What good is that diagnostics tool...............it is supposed to check all the sensors on startup.
 
A may just bite the bullet and buy a new sensor and see what happens. My only other path is a compression test and no one in Annapolis seems capable of doing that. Either they are too "booked up" or do not have the expertise. My current rep told me I would have to buy all the test gear if he had to do it - huh? If that were true I should just buy the equipment and do it myself.
 
Regrettably, I do not have a spare D3 in my garage.
 
Thanks,
Jamie
 
 
 
On Friday, November 20, 2015 3:31 AM, "seafeverofcuan@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
 
Jamie,
         Following Tony Robinson's posting re. electrical storm. Is there any way that you can establish if your boat could have been hit by lightening after you left it?
I was sailing up the coast of Brazil in 2009 with four another Amels, there was a 54 called Togwin owned by a very knowledgeable  Frenchman.
Togwin suddenly lost all engine power during an Electrical storm and she was taken in tow by the rest of the group for 350 miles.
The owner well known to the factory, had a new Amel 64 on order and the factory sent out a Volvo technician from France to the Amazon basin.
The man arrived with every conceivable solid state part, meters, etc. and as others have posted, he methodically replaced each sensor until he got the engine to run.
I am not sure exactly who defined that the problem was due to lightening striking the stainless steel rails on the aft coach roof.
Regards,
Trevor
 
Seafever of Cuan
2004 SM 425 Redline
Mexico
For Sale
$ 295,000
 
 
 
 
 
 





Re: Engine Problems Amel 54

ms42phantom54@...
 

I just want to give the folks out there an update on my "no-start" engine. I appreciate the support from the group, but have finally deciphered the problem, and it is not good.

As I noted, I have been unable to start my engine since I left Florida in June. Today my outfit of choice here in Annapolis (Bay Shore) finally agreed to help and ran a whole bunch of engine tests (verified the pressure sensor, crank sensor, injectors, fuel systems, etc.). After much head scratching, it appears that raw water from the exhaust system has been slowly migrating back into the intercooler, thereby injecting salt water into the intake manifold. Over time, that has likely caused valve seat damage, piston damage, and even cylinder wall damage. Without taking the engine apart we cannot prove that, but there are salt crystals and corrosion at the mixer fittings adjacent to the turbo. It should be dry. My mechanic (this time a really good one who really investigated the problem) felt the exhaust hose was mounted too high with a lot of resistance. He also felt the muffler was too small, and the type installed is apparently prone to backup over time. I don't blame anyone really, but it is a lesson learned (although an expensive one for sure).

I will be installing a new engine and addressing the installation issues to ensure this sort of thing does not happen again. We will be installing a "drum type" Vetus muffler with a short exhaust hose directly to the outlet on the port side. The one that loops up and over the engine wall is not good.

Not sure if anyone else out there with a "54" wants to investigate their installations, but I can see how water could "bounce" back into the engine if the exhaust system is not breathing freely. My situation might be unique, but regular flush-outs and periodic inspection of the muffler could be the answer, and certainly worth the effort to keep the systems clean and operational.

Thanks again,
Jamie Wendell
s/v Phantom Amel 54


R: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] B&G speed

Giovanni TESTA
 

 

Ciao to all,

same problem about BG/Hydra 2000 (2003) sonic speed and  possible solution,

Analysis:

2 different BG technicians ( Italy and Thailand)  told me that :

_  it is very difficult to find the ratio failure. May be the sensor, may be the Hydra sw.

    More, also the depth sensor may have failure ( I had to rest it many time ).

_ after 12/13 years it is better to deep reset the Hydra sw because over data stocked.

   This means that it is working worse and worse in progress.

First solution: we have to send it to BG factory to deep reset it because the internal battery may be not enough to restart the unit so…a lot of money for an old toy. Any way without certainty to solve the problem. More the sonic speed is out of the market.

Second possible solution, (my one).

I assume that SOW is important for data navigation, also if we have SOG.

This is not the issue now, but I was often very happy to have both at the same instant or in a passage, or tide, or strait, or...

Description:

-          the Depth BG housing is by www.airmartechnology.com so it is easy possible to replace the depth sensor with airmar DST800 TRIDATA sensor ( speed, depth, temperature) No new hole.

-          The out put is NMEA 2000, no good for our BG ( not only old NMEA, but BG uses also different nmea sentences ! grrr ! )  

-          So, if you have other navigation systems (I have FURUNO NAV/NET , but it works also with other old nmea units, not again with BG) it is possible to convert new data from DST800 to old unit with the little http://www.chicagomarineelectronics.com/Maretron_Manuals/Cabling_Catalog/AT-10_DataSheet.pdf to have a quick look at it. So I can see on my display/plotter the TRIDATA.

-          More, very important, I have replace the BG external analogic speed display with a SIMRAD display IS40 http://www.simrad-yachting.com/en-GB/Products/Instruments/IS40-Display-en-gb.aspx  my one, or IS20.

It can read also the data from all units inside ( GPS, navigation ecc).

 

Conclusion, it works very well and I use the BG only for data wind. As soon as possible, I plan  to replace also the wind sensor ( easy to be corroded) and to give the BG to garbage. So you know also my opinion about this  very, too much expensive toy.

 

I hope this may help.

 

All the best and Buon Vento

Giovanni TESTA

Sv EUTIKIA n 428 ( 2004)

Thailand

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

-

 

 



----Messaggio originale----
Da: amelyachtowners@...
Data: 2-dic-2015 13.49
A: "amelyachtowners@..."
Ogg: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] B&G speed



----Messaggio originale----
Da: amelyachtowners@...
Data: 2-dic-2015 13.49
A: "amelyachtowners@..."
Ogg: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] B&G speed

 

You are correct Bill. In my haste to offer some advice last night I did not word my comments correctly. If they are all B&G sensors connecting to a Hydra system then it should work. Otherwise, something will be required to ensure signal compatibility to the instrument connection. The NMEA conversion is out of the Hydra (as I have on my 2000), or separately after it.
Thanks



On Wednesday, December 2, 2015 1:32 AM, "'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:


 
B&G paddle-wheel input is B&G proprietary, not NMEA.

If it is B&G compatible, it connects to the same input on the B&G processor as the Sonic Speed. If it is not B&G proprietary, there may be a translator black-box...If there is Tinley Electronics will know. Sarah Pidgley tinley.net>. If not, Tinley does sell a black box that converts GPS NMEA SOG to B&G SOW.

Bill
BeBe 387

On Wed, Dec 2, 2015 at 2:48 AM, James Wendell ms42phantom54@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
How did you connect the paddle wheel unit? Is it NMEA 2K? What make? The sonic speed was NMEA 0183 and they are not interchangeable, assuming you have a B&G Hydra system.
Jamie
s/v Phantom



On Tuesday, December 1, 2015 8:43 PM, "pjn.mccallin@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


 
My sonic speed has given up the ghost have fitted paddle wheel drive. On first test no speed showing on cockpit display, any ideas please, should I have to recalibrate to tell the "brains" of the change. Electronice drive me round the twist but no local expert to hand. Thanks in anticipation