Date   

locked Re: Batteries starting to get weak - MMM - What to do -

Denis Foster
 

Hello,

Just had Flash battery Kaiken that does continuous cell balancing... but they don’t do batteries for yachts and private owners just for industrial companies.

so that s out for us.

regards

Denis


Re: servicing mainsail fuller and outhaul

 

Nick,

I thought all A-54s had a cover where you made one, but maybe it was later model 54s. I do have an issue about the cover I have seen on 54s and that is there is not a good seal around the circumference of the end-cover to the motor/gearbox housing.

I believe that there is no way that sealing this will create too much heat.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Wed, Sep 23, 2020 at 5:54 AM ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:


I recently serviced both main furling and outhaul gears and motors. I found the aluminium shaft on the furling motor very difficult to remove. It was soaked 48  hours in diesel and then pressed out with a hydraulic press, but it took a lot of pressure.  Eventually it came free. Whilst the outhaul shaft came up and out with some gentle taps, being stainless steel! I think that this mast furler should be pulled apart more often to avoid the aluminium seizing in place, maybe every two years, just drop it, move the shaft up and down, check the gear box and lip seal. Alternatively have a stainless shaft made.

Fortunately I had a spare gear box on board as one was in very poor shape with bad corrosion on the aluminium. However all went well and both are back and fully functional with new shaft seals. Although I now do not have a spare aboard. Something that I would like to have if I go off the beaten track.

I decided to make a cover out of some PVC I had kicking around to protect the boom furling one from the elements, as shown in the pictures. There is a drain hole at the bottom of the GRP cover in case some water gets in. It is quite small maybe 8mm. It could be widened to say 12mm if required.

Has anyone tried this? If so was it a success or does it just deprive the gear box of ventilation?

Nick back in the UK with Amelia ashore in Leros, Greece

AML 54-019



locked Re: Batteries starting to get weak - MMM - What to do -

Arno Luijten
 

Hi Paul,

This Best Lithium BMS still uses passive balancing and it does not say if it only does top-balancing. So from that perspective it's not a great BMS.

Arno


Event: Jimmy Cornell - Crossing the Atlantic via ZOOM and YouTube - Saturday, 10 October 2020 #cal-invite

main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Calendar <main@...>
 

Jimmy Cornell - Crossing the Atlantic via ZOOM and YouTube

When:
Saturday, 10 October 2020
20:00 to 21:00
(UTC+00:00) UTC

Where:
Internet ZOOM

Organizer: Bill Rouse brouse@... +18323804970

An RSVP is requested. Click here to RSVP

Description:

Jimmy Cornell has influenced the contemporary cruising scene more than any other sailor. An accomplished sailor, public speaker and author, he has sailed over 200,000 miles in all oceans of the world including three circumnavigations as well as voyages to Antarctica and the Northwest Passage.

Thousands of sailors have fulfilled their dream of blue water cruising with the help of Jimmy Cornell’s books, among them the international bestseller World Cruising Routes. Now in its 8th edition, and with over 200,000 copies sold to date, this is one of the best selling nautical publications in the world.

As the founder of the highly successful ARC transatlantic rally, Jimmy Cornell is credited with having devised the offshore cruising rally concept. In the last four decades, Jimmy Cornell has organized 38 transatlantic rallies, five round the world rallies, and one round the world race, with over 3,000 boats and 15,000 sailors having participated in his sailing events.

From my perspective, the first Jimmy Cornell seminar that Judy and I attended was after we had sailed most of the world and had over 20 years of sailing experience. We learned a lot!

We are very pleased that Jimmy has taken time out of his very busy schedule to give a special ZOOM presentation to the Amel Yacht Owners Group. I encourage you to RSVP soon for this meeting.

ZOOM and YouTube instructions to be added soon on this calendar notice.

CW Bill Rouse


Re: Canvassing for ideas: removing motor housing A54 “MAT” foiling motor.

Courtney Gorman
 

hi Porter it does come off but lots of prying and force and lube.  I still had to buy a new one as it could not be repaired in grenada.  I believe in the south Pacific they are more creative so good luck.
Cheers
Courtney
Trippin
54 #101
Brunswick


-----Original Message-----
From: Porter McRoberts via groups.io <portermcroberts@...>
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Sent: Tue, Sep 22, 2020 9:33 pm
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Canvassing for ideas: removing motor housing A54 “MAT” foiling motor.

Dear Amelians: 
I beg any insight if you would. This is a 1.5 year old motor and housing from Amel for the main sail foil furling motor.  The last one, seal was damaged and the whole unit unsalvageable. This is a “new” 1.5 year old replacement. Now not working. Relays and switches all fine. Motor gotten progressively more “tired”  and now has stopped rotating. 

I have removed the base and look in and see no corrosion. But I think I need to remove the whole motor assembly from the housing which mean also removing the top cap. The bottom cap slipped off with mild to moderate traction. The black top cap will neither rotate with respect to the white housing nor slide out from it. 

Aggressive traction I think will bend the bolts. I’ll get more aggressive if I know the top cap comes off the housing. Does it?  There are screws I removed that seem to indicate the cap would pop off/out. 

Tapping on base of motor: I’ve done gentle tapping. No movement. Might I damage motor by more aggressive tapping?

Of course I can disconnect and take off the boat and to town to search for a technician, but it would be so much easier to sort it here in the boat. 

Some photos below illustrate the situation. 

Many thanks in advance. 

Porter McRoberts 
S/V IBIS A54-152. 
Tahiti
WhatsApp:+1 754 265 2206
Www.fouribis.net




servicing mainsail fuller and outhaul

ngtnewington Newington
 



I recently serviced both main furling and outhaul gears and motors. I found the aluminium shaft on the furling motor very difficult to remove. It was soaked 48  hours in diesel and then pressed out with a hydraulic press, but it took a lot of pressure.  Eventually it came free. Whilst the outhaul shaft came up and out with some gentle taps, being stainless steel! I think that this mast furler should be pulled apart more often to avoid the aluminium seizing in place, maybe every two years, just drop it, move the shaft up and down, check the gear box and lip seal. Alternatively have a stainless shaft made.

Fortunately I had a spare gear box on board as one was in very poor shape with bad corrosion on the aluminium. However all went well and both are back and fully functional with new shaft seals. Although I now do not have a spare aboard. Something that I would like to have if I go off the beaten track.

I decided to make a cover out of some PVC I had kicking around to protect the boom furling one from the elements, as shown in the pictures. There is a drain hole at the bottom of the GRP cover in case some water gets in. It is quite small maybe 8mm. It could be widened to say 12mm if required.

Has anyone tried this? If so was it a success or does it just deprive the gear box of ventilation?

Nick back in the UK with Amelia ashore in Leros, Greece

AML 54-019



Re: Canvassing for ideas: removing motor housing A54 “MAT” foiling motor.

Germain Jean-Pierre
 

Hi Guys,

Michel, the owner of the chandlery at Marina Taina, can probably steer you to a competent electrician...

Good luck

Jean-Pierre Germain, Eleuthera, SM007, Opua, NZ


On 23 Sep 2020, at 15:58, Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:



Porter,

 

Sorry, I can’t help with your issue but, if in your hunt for a solution you happened to find a shop who repairs electric motors, please let me know. I have a couple of spares I would like to have serviced.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Porter McRoberts via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2020 3:33 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Canvassing for ideas: removing motor housing A54 “MAT” foiling motor.

 

Dear Amelians: 

I beg any insight if you would. This is a 1.5 year old motor and housing from Amel for the main sail foil furling motor.  The last one, seal was damaged and the whole unit unsalvageable. This is a “new” 1.5 year old replacement. Now not working. Relays and switches all fine. Motor gotten progressively more “tired”  and now has stopped rotating. 

 

I have removed the base and look in and see no corrosion. But I think I need to remove the whole motor assembly from the housing which mean also removing the top cap. The bottom cap slipped off with mild to moderate traction. The black top cap will neither rotate with respect to the white housing nor slide out from it. 

 

Aggressive traction I think will bend the bolts. I’ll get more aggressive if I know the top cap comes off the housing. Does it?  There are screws I removed that seem to indicate the cap would pop off/out. 

 

Tapping on base of motor: I’ve done gentle tapping. No movement. Might I damage motor by more aggressive tapping?

 

Of course I can disconnect and take off the boat and to town to search for a technician, but it would be so much easier to sort it here in the boat. 

 

Some photos below illustrate the situation. 

 

Many thanks in advance. 

Porter McRoberts 

S/V IBIS A54-152. 

Tahiti

WhatsApp:+1 754 265 2206

Www.fouribis.net

 

<image001.jpg>
<image002.jpg>
<image003.jpg>

 


Re: Canvassing for ideas: removing motor housing A54 “MAT” foiling motor.

Mark Erdos
 

Porter,

 

Sorry, I can’t help with your issue but, if in your hunt for a solution you happened to find a shop who repairs electric motors, please let me know. I have a couple of spares I would like to have serviced.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Porter McRoberts via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2020 3:33 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Canvassing for ideas: removing motor housing A54 “MAT” foiling motor.

 

Dear Amelians: 

I beg any insight if you would. This is a 1.5 year old motor and housing from Amel for the main sail foil furling motor.  The last one, seal was damaged and the whole unit unsalvageable. This is a “new” 1.5 year old replacement. Now not working. Relays and switches all fine. Motor gotten progressively more “tired”  and now has stopped rotating. 

 

I have removed the base and look in and see no corrosion. But I think I need to remove the whole motor assembly from the housing which mean also removing the top cap. The bottom cap slipped off with mild to moderate traction. The black top cap will neither rotate with respect to the white housing nor slide out from it. 

 

Aggressive traction I think will bend the bolts. I’ll get more aggressive if I know the top cap comes off the housing. Does it?  There are screws I removed that seem to indicate the cap would pop off/out. 

 

Tapping on base of motor: I’ve done gentle tapping. No movement. Might I damage motor by more aggressive tapping?

 

Of course I can disconnect and take off the boat and to town to search for a technician, but it would be so much easier to sort it here in the boat. 

 

Some photos below illustrate the situation. 

 

Many thanks in advance. 

Porter McRoberts 

S/V IBIS A54-152. 

Tahiti

WhatsApp:+1 754 265 2206

Www.fouribis.net

 

 


Canvassing for ideas: removing motor housing A54 “MAT” foiling motor.

Porter McRoberts
 

Dear Amelians: 
I beg any insight if you would. This is a 1.5 year old motor and housing from Amel for the main sail foil furling motor.  The last one, seal was damaged and the whole unit unsalvageable. This is a “new” 1.5 year old replacement. Now not working. Relays and switches all fine. Motor gotten progressively more “tired”  and now has stopped rotating. 

I have removed the base and look in and see no corrosion. But I think I need to remove the whole motor assembly from the housing which mean also removing the top cap. The bottom cap slipped off with mild to moderate traction. The black top cap will neither rotate with respect to the white housing nor slide out from it. 

Aggressive traction I think will bend the bolts. I’ll get more aggressive if I know the top cap comes off the housing. Does it?  There are screws I removed that seem to indicate the cap would pop off/out. 

Tapping on base of motor: I’ve done gentle tapping. No movement. Might I damage motor by more aggressive tapping?

Of course I can disconnect and take off the boat and to town to search for a technician, but it would be so much easier to sort it here in the boat. 

Some photos below illustrate the situation. 

Many thanks in advance. 

Porter McRoberts 
S/V IBIS A54-152. 
Tahiti
WhatsApp:+1 754 265 2206
Www.fouribis.net




Re: Amel 55 hatch door cannot be locked from inside

Billy Newport
 

So I just un"blocked" it. Looking at the door from inside the boat. I moved the right hand sliding lock slightly to the left until the nub can be moved down. It's as if it's over too far or something and jamming the nub from moving down. As I moved the sliding lock to the left I pressed on the nub and suddenly after 1-2mm of lock bar going left, the nub went down and then it went back to normal. Go figure but I'll take it. So, the theory is somehow the right hand lock bar jammed the nub somehow. It's back to normal for now.

I tried removing that access panel but the nub prevents it from being removed and I didn't know whether to pull the nub off or unscrew it off etc so I couldn't remove the panel.


Re: deck leak

James Alton
 

Arno,. You are correct, the Divinycell won't rot if water gets in. For a boat with a teak deck that has fastener holes I would prefer the Divinycell since with that many holes water is going to get in.  I have been in the boat repair business for more than 40 years and I have dug out a lot of rotten plywood and balsa core and you are correct it is a huge nasty job to do right.  The Amel design thankfully has very few deck and cabin penetrations so it is not that big of a job to decore each and every hole, fill with epoxy, redrill and seal.  From that point forward if a fastener leaks the water cannot get into the core.  The increase in compressive strength of the balsa will create a more Ridgid structure and the increase in the bonding to the fiberglass skins (assuming the layup was done correctly) also adds strength.  So this means that with a weaker core you probably need to to build the boat a bit heavier to have the same strength.  Are the HR's heavier than a comparable Amel?  I have worked with the Divinycell on sailplanes and I will say that it the the best foam type core that I have worked with.  Some of the planes were 20 plus years old and the core was still healthy.  I have seen many other types of foam used for core material break down.   So to distill yes on a boat where I feel that I can keep the core dry, I would much prefer to have balsa core such as my Amel.  On a boat where there is a high probability of water intrusion such as a deck or cabin with a lot of screw holes, a non organic core such as Divinycell would be preferable.  Best to you.  

James Alton
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Sep 21, 2020 11:49 PM, Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:
Hi James,

I'm aware of the differences between balsa and Divinycell, particularly the difference in adhesion to polyester. However Hallberg Rassy and many others have been using Divinycell since the eighties and correct me if I'm wrong, I've never heard of a soggy deck on a Halberg-Rassy. I used to own a 1992 model and the deck was solid, even with the gazillion holes because of the teak deck. Not that I would ever want a teak laid boat anymore, but that is another story. My previous boat had no teak deck but did carry a Divinycell cored deck and hull (above the waterline). Not a single problem manifested itself. I sold her when she was 16 years old.
The compression strength is something you can take into account when doing the structural calculations on the boat and should not be a problem.

So although there are some advantages to balsa I find it a poor choice for cored decks simply because water-ingress can be very hard to spot/monitor until it's at an advances state. There is a YouTube channel (Sail Life) that can illustrate the crazy amount of work it can be to rectify the problem once the balsa starts rotting.

Regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


Re: Amel 55 hatch door cannot be locked from inside

John Clanton
 

Billy,

 

I have never experienced what you are describing.  I have always wished that when the interior lock nub is moved into the locked position, it would have a tactile or audible click assuring that it is actually locked.  Since it doesn’t, I can’t help but test the handles each time to make sure they don’t slide open.

 

I haven’t been on the boat for 11 months and 15 days thanks to the Covid, but seem to recall an access port around the interior locking mechanism???

 

Please update the group when you find the issue and solution so that we can have that in the knowledge base.

 

 

 

John W. Clanton

Devereux, A55, No. 65

Hopefully still in Antibes, France



Disclaimer

The information contained in this communication from the sender is confidential. It is intended solely for use by the recipient and others authorized to receive it. If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any review, retransmission, dissemination, distribution, copying or other use of, or taking of any action in reliance upon this information is strictly prohibited.


Amel 55 hatch door cannot be locked from inside

Billy Newport
 

Anyone seen this. The companion way door locks and unlocks normally with the key. If locked with the key then you can unlock using the inside "knob". But, I cannot lock it from inside. The "knob" is like locked in place but when i lock with the key, it does slide down just fine. This was working fine until this week, I'm been lock/unlocking it from inside since getting the boat.

Is there a child safety thing which has a mode disabling locking from inside the boat possibly that I accidentally enabled?

Amel 55#56.


Re: In case you missed the QSails ZOOM

Alain Blanchard
 

Dear Bill and all,

Thank you for the video. That was very interresting and useful for me as a near future owner of a Super Maramu.
Anyway the Group activity is fantastic.

Best regards 
Alain

Envoyé de mon iPhone

Le 22 sept. 2020 à 21:30, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> a écrit :


If you missed the QSails ZOOM meeting, it is now posted.

Use this link:

Bill 
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


locked Re: Batteries starting to get weak - MMM - What to do -

Denis Foster
 

Thank s Paul,

i have already seen this Swedish company. Very interesting in the DIY Winston Thundersky  cell assembly. They will balance the cells before delivery that are from the same batch. Looks like a more cost efficient alternative to Lithionics.

The website is more in Swedish than English.

They have to 24v 400Ah cell packs One with 8 cells the other with 16 cells not as tall.

one interesting features seems to be in case one prismatic cells fail apparently they can be exchanged at moderate cost and the whole setup can be rebalanced. Maybe more useful than a theoretical 10 year guarantee.

progressing towards the truth of lithium and following Oliver of Nautica Vela who has engineering skills I lack.

regards

Denis

 


In case you missed the QSails ZOOM

 

If you missed the QSails ZOOM meeting, it is now posted.

Use this link:

Bill 
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


locked Re: Batteries starting to get weak - MMM - What to do -

Elja Röllinghoff Balu SM 222
 

Hi Denis
i agree with you , the last 8 weeks have been dealing with Licium batteries , but it was not happy that too many complex questions are still open to me ,
then I have co2 and carbon
batteries are busy, not matured on sailing boats at the moment

Now the decision is probably on AGM Victron super cycle with it I get to the SM battery compartment about 580 AH /24 V

ich hoffe damit die nächsten 5-10 Jahre zu überstehen und dann schaue ich mal neu

Greetings Elja
SM Balu
222

Von meinem iPhone gesendet


Spare electric controle box M61037 #spares

Steven Nieman
 

Hi, does anyone have  A spare electrical black box M61037 for sale for the airco Compact 9 EH - Cod. M60018 unit?


locked Re: Batteries starting to get weak - MMM - What to do -

Paul Osterberg
 

I looking into this BMS which I will probably go for, expensive but I got confidence in my contact, he provided a lot of valuable information 
http://www.bestlithiumbattery.com/
Paul on sykerpa SM 259 


Re: Manual Bilge Pump

Gerhard Mueller
 

In Greece I have received the service kit some weeks ago from:

Alex Karademiris 
 Marine Accessories Sales 
ZOIS EFSTATHIOU S.A. - Imports of Yacht Accessories & Marine Engines
57 Posidonos Ave. - 183 44 MOSCHATO - GREECE
Tel +30 2109409828
Fax +30 2109409112
Email: 
alex_karademiris@...
URL: 
www.zois.gr

They have the Whale service kit AK8050 in stock.
Retail price: 38.63€+VAT
ACS courier transport 4.5€+VAT to Kalamata and received the next day.

--
Gerhard Mueller
Amel Sharki #60
Currently Kalamata, Greece

3461 - 3480 of 57857