On 24. Jun 2020, at 14:46, Aras <aras.grinius@...> wrote:



Morning Pete,

I have Hull #163 1988.  When you say running rigging, what do you exactly need?  I have the electric furlers, 2 downwind poles etc.  I can send pictures of my setup. 

aras

Sharki #163 1988

Daytona

On Tue, Jun 23, 2020 at 4:59 PM Peter Baumann <mistymeadowfarm@...> wrote:

We bought Sharki 162 last fall and did not get a chance to sail her till now. Trouble is that sails and running rigging (I hope) are stored below deck and I have never seen the boat with the running rigging installed. Does anyone have a running rigging diagram or pictures that they would be
willing to share. The same question was asked in 2005, but the link in the answer is no longer active.
Thanks a bunch,
Pete

--

Aras Grinius

On Jun 24, 2020, at 8:38 AM, Robert Nilsen <robert@...> wrote:

What a brilliant tip!
I have the same problem with a collapsed riser pipe in the forward holding tank, and will plan for glassing in a new glassfiber or epoxy pipe. 
Due to still lockdown wher my boat is, I'm not there to measure dimension of piping, but belive it's 38mm.
Can anyone confirm that? 

Best regards Robert 
S/Y Silfrania 
SM#53

On 24 June 2020 at 17:57 Dennis Campbell <dennis@...> wrote:

Have just completed the same task on Pegasus (Maramu #178). Cut out rusted section leaving 4" (100mm) top and bottom stub ends of original pipe. Replaced damaged section with 3" (75mm) gal pipe with sliding 3 1/2" collars fitting over each stub end to keep new hawes pipe in position. Then glassed over to secure. 

On 24 Jun 2020, at 14:10, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...> wrote:



Hi all.

I have arrived where all us SM oweners will some time and am replacing the hawse pipe from the deck through the port deck locker. The old mild steel on didnt look too bad till  I hit it with a hammer and all the rust fell off. See the attached photo of the old pipe and my new stainless pipe ready to be glassed in.

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

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Mike,

On Jun 23, 2020, at 1:26 PM, smiles bernard via groups.io <smilesbernard=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Hello there fellow Amelians
We have just loved our vintage Maramu ti here new home up the Tamar river in the UK.
Lovely spot on a swinging mooring but the tide rips through at 4 knots at springs

So much so that the prop spins along.

Normally when sailing leave the prop freespining - not least to generate power but also I believe that’s advised for my Hurth gearbox.

Does anyone have advise for when on a mooring ? My feeling is that days and days of freespining prop can only add wear and so I am tempted to put her in reverse

Thoughts most welcome

Miles
Maramu #162

On Jun 8, 2020, at 8:42 PM, Mike Ondra via groups.io <mdondra@...> wrote:

From ALETES, SM#240 1999 with Jabsco manual pump: Head backflow and Holding Tanks

We have persistently had issues with holding tank backflow to the toilet requiring frequent cleaning or replacement of the joker valve. Additional measures have included the addition of a Jabsco check valve as well as the installation of the “locking” version of the Jabsco manual pump. Three layers of defense could not defeat the backflow problem, apparently due to buildup of crystals on all the backflow preventive devices.   

Also, we have experienced leakage at the connections of the riser hoses (both inlet and outlet) where they connect to the tank. As others have noted, that connection on some models is a copper sleeve that is glassed into the tank, and that copper corrodes over time developing pin-holes and associated leaks. Nasty. Band-aid fixes over the years usually held for a time, but the corrosion keeps on working and leaks reappear.

During our latest effort at cleaning and replacing the valves we had a surprise. As anyone who has removed the riser pipe that connects the pump to the tank knows, the contents of the entire riser drain out. Hence it is prudent to flush with a significant volume of water prior to attempting the disconnect. By doing so, the contents that spill into the shower pan are “mostly” clean water.  In this last removal, however, the contents of the ENTIRE holding tank spilled into the shower pan (no further description required). So now we are apparently dealing with a third holding tank issue. Time for a major effort in holding tank repair. 

The internal workings of the holding tank have always been a bit of mystery as there is no access port and the 3 openings to the tank are rather small, basically 1.5”. We have not seen shop drawings or photos of the interior of the tank, but from BB postings, our understanding has been that from the copper sleeve penetrating the fiberglass there is a riser tube in the tank that delivers the waste and spills somewhere near the top of the tank. So before developing a plan of attack for repairs, we removed the deck plate to get slightly larger access to the tank to see what was inside and perhaps determine the problem. Here are the long-awaited photos of the inside of the tank looking down from the deck plate.  

<image018.png>  <image019.png>  <image020.png>

So as one can see, the copper sleeve also corroded within the tank and ultimately the riser extension within the tank separated from it. Wastes were being pumped into the BOTTOM of the tank, and any disconnection of the riser hose in the inboard side would drain any remaining contents within the tank above the drain sump. One curiosity is why the riser within the tank would loop up and then back down so that the discharge point is low in the tank. We couldn’t see but presume there is no vacuum breaker at the top of the loop, so as soon as the contents level would be above the discharge end of the loop, the riser would not drain itself, and in fact become a siphon for backflow. Anyway, since it seemed attached to the tank wall and/or top and we could not get into the tank to disconnect, we could not remove it and it was abandoned in place. NOTE TO OTHERS who have experienced the corrosion of the copper sleeve below the tank - this failure within the tank may be in your future as well.

Mark Erdos on May 3, 2017 posted an excellent description of his fix for the inboard portion of the copper pipe corrosion while leaving the upper copper pipe and its connection within the tank in place. This was not an option for us due to the separation above. So, following his procedure but completely removing the copper, our solution was a continuous piece of sanitary hose from check-valve near the pump all the way to the top of the holding tank, no connections to leak. 

<image021.png>    <image022.png>

We reamed out the hole in the fiberglass with rotary rasp so the tubing would slip through. Flared the top of the hole a bit to receive epoxy resin that would seal around the tubing and ooze down between the tube and the fiberglass. Putty was placed around the internal end of the joint to prevent the epoxy from running out. The resin was delivered to the flared opening at the top of the tube/fiberglass joint by pouring it down a PVC pipe/straw. 

<image023.png>   <image022.png>

After curing we filled the tank with clean water to test for leaks. There seemed to be none. However, overnight there was evidence of a slight leak. We suspect there was insuffient gap between the tube and the fiberglass for the somewhat viscous resin to fully flow and fill. Otherwise, this solution seems good. So now the plan is to remove the tube, ream out the fiberglass a bit more to achieve, say, a 2mm gap between them and once again fill with resin. 

Any comments, experiences, words of wisdom appreciated as we plan for this FINAL fix.

Mike Ondra, ALETES SM#240, Rock Hall, MD