Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: ONAN FAULT BRAKER

Paul Osterberg
 

Thank you
Can I reuse the gaskets after cleaning the heat exchanger and elbow?
Sy Kerpa


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: ONAN FAULT BRAKER

Beaute Olivier
 

Good afternoon Paul,

your generator is a different kind as the later ones (like Bill's). When the fault breaker trips, this is mainly because of 4 possible problems:
-too high temperature on cooling fluid
-too high temperature at exhaust pipe
-not enough oil pressure
-no charge from the 12V alternator

So before resetting the small red knob, check:
-cooling fluid level and fan belt (driving the cooling fluid circulator)
-seawater flow (therefore, impeller and heat exchanger tubings)
-oil level
-alternator belt and wiring

Now that you have found the cause (broken impeller) of the fault breaker to trip, as your impeller was rather new, you should inspect the whole seawater circuit, especially at heat exchanger intake, where pieces of rubber impeller may have collected and prevent a good water flow (and then cause the impeller to destroy because it forces).
If you can't find any piece of rubber or dirt, you should check the exhaust elbow where seawater mixes with exhaust gas. It may be partly clogged with soot (according to the engine hours and age).

Have a good working day!

Olivier



On Monday, July 13, 2015 12:51 PM, "osterberg.paul.l@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:


 
Found the problem, broken impeller, but there are no flash indicating what problem
Thank you
SY Kerpa



Re: ONAN FAULT BRAKER

Paul Osterberg
 

Found the problem, broken impeller, but there are no flash indicating what problem
Thank you
SY Kerpa


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] ONAN FAULT BRAKER

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Paul,

I think that you are talking about the *Emergency Stop Switch*, if it is on
the front panel. There should also be a DC voltage breaker on the front
panel. The AC line breaker (breaker that an over-load would cause to open).
While you are facing the front of the Onan, the AC line breaker is on the
left side, near the rear.

Is switch (breaker) that is opening labeled "Emergency Stop Switch?" See
the attached photo.

If this switch is opening, it probably is a faulty switch because as far as
I know, the switch is designed for the owner to cut the generator OFF in an
emergency or to keep it OFF when servicing. BTW, I sometimes accidentally
hit this switch when I am in the engine room while the generator is not
running. The next time I try to start the generator, nothing happens. It
took me a while to solve this the first time.

Let me know

Bill
BeBe 387
Currently Barcelona

On Mon, Jul 13, 2015 at 11:24 AM, Paul Österberg <osterberg.paul.l@gmail.com
wrote:
Hello Bill
The fault breaker that "close down " is the tiny red one with a
transparent rubber cover between engine hour counter and the starter switch
on the Onan
I have currently 1320 h on the genset new fuel filters and impeller
When it stops i does it very suddenly
It looks as adequate amount of cooling water is comming
But general felling it is a hot engine
Could it be the heatexchanger?
Regards
PAUL SY Kerpa


Amel Mango Bow Thruster removal.

Peter Buckley <carhartt@...>
 

Hi All,
I have recently purchased Gradiva Mango # 70 From Marc Arav in Noumea. She is an amazing well kept yacht and I am sure Marc was sad to see her go.
So now I am tasked with the on going maintenance  of her. 
I have searched the group and cannot find any Mango specific bow thruster removal procedure listed there. Is there an Amel published procedure in English that I can obtain from Amel or any owner that has completed this task.
Thank you in anticipation.
Regards
Peter 

-- 
Peter Buckley

83 Twelfth Avenue
Raymond Island VIC 3880

Phone: 0428 427 786

Email: carhartt@...


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thank you Kent !!! Loose bolt in C-drive and broken spurrs

eric freedman
 

Kent,

No movement,

Just greased it and torqued it down.

Thank you,

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Sunday, July 12, 2015 9:02 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thank you Kent !!! Loose bolt in C-drive and broken spurrs

 

 

Hi Eric,

I can't find that pic now either.  You'll see when you remove the bolt completely.

From the center of the hole out it's bolt->SS Sleeve

->Rubber sleeve-> Bigger rubber sleeve.

If there's no movement of the foot from side to side, just replace the bolt with some waterproof grease on the threads and, to quote Craig, "Bob's your Uncle".

Kent


On Jul 11, 2015, at 8:10 PM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent,

My C-Drive bolt was sealed with a rubbery substance and was slightly domed at the top , I always thought it was a rubber cap for something.

I do not understand what you are speaking about with respect to the bushings.

Could you Please direct me to a drawing of the drive. I know it is somewhere on our site.

Fair Winds

Eric

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, July 11, 2015 7:59 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thank you Kent !!! Loose bolt in C-drive and broken spurrs

 

 

Hi Eric,

There wasn't anything sealing the top of the bolt on Kristy.  It was exposed and looked to be in fine shape.  Makes me wonder if the CDrive had been removed before I bought her.  I put some waterproof grease (lanocote) on the threads before bolting it back down.  Since I'm on the hard again, I'll be interested to hear what Olivier says about sealing it.  

 

Are you able to wiggle the lower drive side to side at all?  If so you may need new rubber bushings that go between the stainless sleeve and the "foot".  There are two pieces of rubber hose (one big enough to fit snugly over the other) that go into the hole in the foot.  The steel sleeve goes inside the smaller hose, and the bolt goes through the sleeve.

 

Kent

SM 243

Kristy


On Jul 11, 2015, at 7:25 PM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi,

I hauled Kimberlite today to fix some water intrusion in the C-Drive.

After reading what you had done and some of Olivier’s explanation as to what was hiding under that black silicone button on the foot of the C-drive.
I cur away the silicone and found the bolt in question. I was amazed to find that it was loose enough that I could turn it with my fingers. I tightened it with a 30 mm socket that I use for the prop puller.

I was wondering if it can be removed and put a thread sealant on it, Also, in the past when I used a lot of silicone to close something up , It took many days to harden. Is there something special that you used to seal the bolt?

 

When taking the spurs line cutter off the shaft I also noted that one of the two small cap screws was missing along with a piece of the spurs unit.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thank you Kent !!! Loose bolt in C-drive and broken spurrs

karkauai
 

Hi Eric,
I can't find that pic now either.  You'll see when you remove the bolt completely.
From the center of the hole out it's bolt->SS Sleeve
->Rubber sleeve-> Bigger rubber sleeve.
If there's no movement of the foot from side to side, just replace the bolt with some waterproof grease on the threads and, to quote Craig, "Bob's your Uncle".
Kent


On Jul 11, 2015, at 8:10 PM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent,

My C-Drive bolt was sealed with a rubbery substance and was slightly domed at the top , I always thought it was a rubber cap for something.

I do not understand what you are speaking about with respect to the bushings.

Could you Please direct me to a drawing of the drive. I know it is somewhere on our site.

Fair Winds

Eric

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, July 11, 2015 7:59 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thank you Kent !!! Loose bolt in C-drive and broken spurrs

 

 

Hi Eric,

There wasn't anything sealing the top of the bolt on Kristy.  It was exposed and looked to be in fine shape.  Makes me wonder if the CDrive had been removed before I bought her.  I put some waterproof grease (lanocote) on the threads before bolting it back down.  Since I'm on the hard again, I'll be interested to hear what Olivier says about sealing it.  

 

Are you able to wiggle the lower drive side to side at all?  If so you may need new rubber bushings that go between the stainless sleeve and the "foot".  There are two pieces of rubber hose (one big enough to fit snugly over the other) that go into the hole in the foot.  The steel sleeve goes inside the smaller hose, and the bolt goes through the sleeve.

 

Kent

SM 243

Kristy


On Jul 11, 2015, at 7:25 PM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi,

I hauled Kimberlite today to fix some water intrusion in the C-Drive.

After reading what you had done and some of Olivier’s explanation as to what was hiding under that black silicone button on the foot of the C-drive.
I cur away the silicone and found the bolt in question. I was amazed to find that it was loose enough that I could turn it with my fingers. I tightened it with a 30 mm socket that I use for the prop puller.

I was wondering if it can be removed and put a thread sealant on it, Also, in the past when I used a lot of silicone to close something up , It took many days to harden. Is there something special that you used to seal the bolt?

 

When taking the spurs line cutter off the shaft I also noted that one of the two small cap screws was missing along with a piece of the spurs unit.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] ONAN FAULT BRAKER

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

I think you are saying that the electric breaker is opening under load.

I am assuming that you are talking about the breaker on the side and near the rear of the Onan.

Can you confirm that the breaker is opening?

NOW, I AM GOING TO TAKE A WILD GUESS WITH VERY LIMITED INFORMATION.
I assume that not only is the breaker opening, but the engine is stopping and it happens when a load is added and not before.

I would guess that you have a fuel problem. When was the last time you changed the fuel filter? What about the fuel pump? They have a life of about 2000 hours. What are your hours on the fuel pump?

The reason I am guessing a fuel problem is that the generator is designed to run at a constant RPM. As the load increases the governor will attempt to keep the RPMs stable, but this requires more fuel to the cylinders. When it cannot keep the RPMs stable because of the fuel problem, the engine speed reduces because of the extra load and not enough fuel to compensate. As the speed reduces, so does the voltage which causes an increase in amperage, throwing the breaker and killing the engine.

All of that said, remember it is a guess with very limited information from you.

I hope that this might help you.

You probably should get an Onan mechanic to look at it.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Currently at Barcelona
Sent from my tablet
+39 333 121 8115 Italy Mobile
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On Jul 12, 2015 8:03 PM, "osterberg.paul.l@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Have problem with my Onan
It starts alright but stops after 5-10 minutes depends on how hard I load it. If I run the AC it,s stop emediatly. By reseting the falt breaker I can start again after a while. Does anyone know what can cause the problem
Paul on SYKerpa #SM259


Re: ONAN FAULT BRAKER

Derick Gates SM2K #400 Brava
 

If the code is four flashes, indicating overheating, check the impeller on the seawater pump.  

Derick 
SM2k #400 Brava


Re: ONAN FAULT BRAKER

luvkante
 

It should show an error code by flashing light on the switch.
Check and see the manual for interpretation.

Martin


ONAN FAULT BRAKER

Paul Osterberg
 

Have problem with my Onan
It starts alright but stops after 5-10 minutes depends on how hard I load it. If I run the AC it,s stop emediatly. By reseting the falt breaker I can start again after a while. Does anyone know what can cause the problem
Paul on SYKerpa #SM259


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thank you Kent !!! Loose bolt in C-drive and broken spurrs

karkauai
 

Merci beaucoup, Olivier!  As usual you are there to guide us in in chartered waters.  I/we are truly indebted to you for sharing your Amel expertise.
May the wind be always on your beam.
Kent


On Jul 12, 2015, at 10:05 AM, Beaute Olivier atlanticyachtsurvey@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Good afternoon Eric, Kent, Bill and all happy readers,

the bolt holding the C-drive foot in the cast iron ballast is originally not locked with thread locking compound. If you put some, it may be very difficult to remove next time you need to replace the rubber bushing and washer. It is even originally mounted with grease to avoid seizing, at first tightening, because of metal dry friction (stainless steel into cast iron).
When you put the bolt back in (moreover if it is a new one) put some grease on the thread and tighten with approximately 200 Nm (Newton*metre). Then degrease the head and fill the gap (between the bolt's head and the GRP) with black silicone sealant. Let harden for 2 days. Take a picture.
Next time you check the foot, the silicone should not look as a "dome", otherwise this means the bolt is starting to unscrew (like on Kimberlite).

Olivier



On Sunday, July 12, 2015 3:12 PM, "Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


 
Good morning Bill,

In September 2013:
Spurs Zinc B was $12
Spurs Bearing Kit B was $13
Spurs B Plugs + Screws set of 2 were $3.00

In March 2015:
Reconditioning of the Spurs B was $125
Spare Spurs B Stationary cutter half with blade was $150
New Spurs B system was $475

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Grand Bahama

--------------------------------------------
On Sun, 7/12/15, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thank you Kent !!! Loose bolt in C-drive and broken spurrs
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Sunday, July 12, 2015, 12:00 AM


 









Spurs sells what I think is an
overhaul kit which contains the two halves, new plastic
inserts, small bolts for the two halves, and possibly a
zinc. I cannot remember the price, but I thought it was
high.
Bill Rouse

BeBe Amel 53 #387

Sent from my tablet

+39 333 121 8115 Italy Mobile

+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail
On Jul 12, 2015 1:26
AM, "sailormon kimberlite@...
[amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
wrote:















 









Hi,I hauled Kimberlite
today to fix some water intrusion in the
C-Drive.After reading what you
had done and some of Olivier’s explanation as to what was
hiding under that black silicone button on the foot of the
C-drive.
I cur away the silicone and found
the bolt in question. I was amazed to find that it was loose
enough that I could turn it with my fingers. I tightened it
with a 30 mm socket that I use for the prop
puller.I was wondering if it
can be removed and put a thread sealant on it, Also, in the
past when I used a lot of silicone to close something up ,
It took many days to harden. Is there something special that
you used to seal the bolt? When taking the spurs
line cutter off the shaft I also noted that one of the two
small cap screws was missing along with a piece of the spurs
unit.Fair
WindsEricKimberlite Amel Super
Maramu #376   
 






























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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thank you Kent !!! Loose bolt in C-drive and broken spurrs

Beaute Olivier
 

Good afternoon Eric, Kent, Bill and all happy readers,

the bolt holding the C-drive foot in the cast iron ballast is originally not locked with thread locking compound. If you put some, it may be very difficult to remove next time you need to replace the rubber bushing and washer. It is even originally mounted with grease to avoid seizing, at first tightening, because of metal dry friction (stainless steel into cast iron).
When you put the bolt back in (moreover if it is a new one) put some grease on the thread and tighten with approximately 200 Nm (Newton*metre). Then degrease the head and fill the gap (between the bolt's head and the GRP) with black silicone sealant. Let harden for 2 days. Take a picture.
Next time you check the foot, the silicone should not look as a "dome", otherwise this means the bolt is starting to unscrew (like on Kimberlite).

Olivier



On Sunday, July 12, 2015 3:12 PM, "Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:


 
Good morning Bill,

In September 2013:
Spurs Zinc B was $12
Spurs Bearing Kit B was $13
Spurs B Plugs + Screws set of 2 were $3.00

In March 2015:
Reconditioning of the Spurs B was $125
Spare Spurs B Stationary cutter half with blade was $150
New Spurs B system was $475

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Grand Bahama

--------------------------------------------
On Sun, 7/12/15, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thank you Kent !!! Loose bolt in C-drive and broken spurrs
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Sunday, July 12, 2015, 12:00 AM


 









Spurs sells what I think is an
overhaul kit which contains the two halves, new plastic
inserts, small bolts for the two halves, and possibly a
zinc. I cannot remember the price, but I thought it was
high.
Bill Rouse

BeBe Amel 53 #387

Sent from my tablet

+39 333 121 8115 Italy Mobile

+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail
On Jul 12, 2015 1:26
AM, "sailormon kimberlite@...
[amelyachtowners]"
wrote:















 









Hi,I hauled Kimberlite
today to fix some water intrusion in the
C-Drive.After reading what you
had done and some of Olivier’s explanation as to what was
hiding under that black silicone button on the foot of the
C-drive.
I cur away the silicone and found
the bolt in question. I was amazed to find that it was loose
enough that I could turn it with my fingers. I tightened it
with a 30 mm socket that I use for the prop
puller.I was wondering if it
can be removed and put a thread sealant on it, Also, in the
past when I used a lot of silicone to close something up ,
It took many days to harden. Is there something special that
you used to seal the bolt? When taking the spurs
line cutter off the shaft I also noted that one of the two
small cap screws was missing along with a piece of the spurs
unit.Fair
WindsEricKimberlite Amel Super
Maramu #376   
 






























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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Water maker

Andrew & Kate Lamb
 

Thanks Bill - very helpful

Andrew

Ronpische
SM 472


On 12 Jul 2015, at 15:28, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Andrew,

I think that the World Health Organization has a limit of 500-600 for drinking water. My personal threshold is 350 and I have changed the membranes 3 times in 10 years.

But, I think it also depends. We have been aboard full time and have depended on our water maker as the only source for all fresh water and drinking water as we have sailed around the world. I know other owners that buy bottled water for drinking. If this is what you do, then maybe you are OK. The last water I made on membranes that are 2 years old was 108 TDS. The TDS will vary up and down as much as about 20% based on two factors other than membranes: water temperature and the salinity of the sea water. I understand that the Med has a higher salt content than most other places.

I hope this helps you.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Currently Barcelona, Espana
Sent from my tablet
+39 333 121 8115 Italy Mobile
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On Jul 12, 2015 2:33 PM, "Andrew Lamb andrew.lamb@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi all 

Quick question - just crossing the Balearic sea to Minorca and have been checking the water maker - water tastes ok and green light is on but I recently got a TDS meter and it tells me the TDS is 1300 ppm - I think I read on this forum that the threshold for changing the membrane is 600?

Thanks

Andrew
Ronpische
SM472


On 11 Jul 2015, at 15:11, peter killen peterkillen@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi All
The answer to my problem turned out to be the high pressure switch which had defaulted. We can operate the system on 24v for the present until I can get a replacement part. 
Kind regards 
Peter
S/M 433 Pure Magic


On 10 Jul 2015, at 10:07, yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Keith,


For some reason my reply to you was broken in half by something.

I will try again.

Keith,

Maybe I misunderstood your earlier email where you said, "...water is pumped through the system and out through the hull..." The pressure valve is designed to increase pressure to the outside of the membranes by restricting the outflow...thus increasing pressure. It is actually very simple. 

I would not run the water maker until you find the source of the problem which could be:
  1. Source of saltwater is restricted by a closed valve, clogged prefilter(s), clogged line, supply pump (sometimes referred to as low pressure pump), not working or clogged. 
  2. Failure of the HP pump, which could be failed ceramic pistons, cracked head, or loose head (I had this "loose head" thing happen to me...bolts loosened and no pressure...tightened them up and all was good).
  3. Failure of the connection between the motor and the HP pump
  4. Dump valve stuck open (if you have this...I think newer systems do).
  5. Pressure adjustment valve not working correctly...i.e. not actually closing to increase pressure.
Some of your other questions:
Yes, a carbon filter will remove chlorine. I have seen many water maker installations with a carbon filter in-line with the flush line. I do not know why this is not standard on the Dessalator systems. The Dessalator Manual says: "Please note that the drinking water produced by your reverse osmosis system is essentially sterile, however, your fresh water storage should be treated periodically with chlorine or iodine to ensure it remains consumable. Pay attention not to allow chlorine into the desalination system, as this could damage the device."
I am not sure how Dessalator assumes that we "not to allow chlorine into the desalination system without a carbon filter to block the chlorine.

Regarding fresh water being a problem for membranes, I disagree and don't think so...the manual states:
 The membranes should be permanently immersed in liquid, either sea water before treatment, fresh water provisionally stored or sterilizing liquid, if the desalinator is not used for extended periods of time (Sterilizer is effective for six months and must be replaced after this period of time).

I believe the two biggest enemies of the Dessalator system are:
  • Chlorine
  • Dried membranes
  • Sterilizing or Cleaning chemicals (same chemical, but Dessalator uses both terms)
  • Overdosing Sterilizing or Cleaning chemical. I think that if you absolutely have to do this, use 50% of the quantity of chemical and do not leave the chemical in the membrane tubes, but rather flush with tank water for 15 minutes. The chemical is caustic!
Flushing regularly and after each use, or a minimum of once a week---for 6 minutes, with tank water, and using a carbon filter to block any chlorine is the best thing you can do.

All that said, I am no expert. My knowledge has been gained through years of sometimes costly experience.

Bill
BeBe 387


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Water maker

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Andrew,

I think that the World Health Organization has a limit of 500-600 for drinking water. My personal threshold is 350 and I have changed the membranes 3 times in 10 years.

But, I think it also depends. We have been aboard full time and have depended on our water maker as the only source for all fresh water and drinking water as we have sailed around the world. I know other owners that buy bottled water for drinking. If this is what you do, then maybe you are OK. The last water I made on membranes that are 2 years old was 108 TDS. The TDS will vary up and down as much as about 20% based on two factors other than membranes: water temperature and the salinity of the sea water. I understand that the Med has a higher salt content than most other places.

I hope this helps you.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Currently Barcelona, Espana
Sent from my tablet
+39 333 121 8115 Italy Mobile
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On Jul 12, 2015 2:33 PM, "Andrew Lamb andrew.lamb@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi all 

Quick question - just crossing the Balearic sea to Minorca and have been checking the water maker - water tastes ok and green light is on but I recently got a TDS meter and it tells me the TDS is 1300 ppm - I think I read on this forum that the threshold for changing the membrane is 600?

Thanks

Andrew
Ronpische
SM472


On 11 Jul 2015, at 15:11, peter killen peterkillen@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi All
The answer to my problem turned out to be the high pressure switch which had defaulted. We can operate the system on 24v for the present until I can get a replacement part. 
Kind regards 
Peter
S/M 433 Pure Magic


On 10 Jul 2015, at 10:07, yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Keith,


For some reason my reply to you was broken in half by something.

I will try again.

Keith,

Maybe I misunderstood your earlier email where you said, "...water is pumped through the system and out through the hull..." The pressure valve is designed to increase pressure to the outside of the membranes by restricting the outflow...thus increasing pressure. It is actually very simple. 

I would not run the water maker until you find the source of the problem which could be:
  1. Source of saltwater is restricted by a closed valve, clogged prefilter(s), clogged line, supply pump (sometimes referred to as low pressure pump), not working or clogged. 
  2. Failure of the HP pump, which could be failed ceramic pistons, cracked head, or loose head (I had this "loose head" thing happen to me...bolts loosened and no pressure...tightened them up and all was good).
  3. Failure of the connection between the motor and the HP pump
  4. Dump valve stuck open (if you have this...I think newer systems do).
  5. Pressure adjustment valve not working correctly...i.e. not actually closing to increase pressure.
Some of your other questions:
Yes, a carbon filter will remove chlorine. I have seen many water maker installations with a carbon filter in-line with the flush line. I do not know why this is not standard on the Dessalator systems. The Dessalator Manual says: "Please note that the drinking water produced by your reverse osmosis system is essentially sterile, however, your fresh water storage should be treated periodically with chlorine or iodine to ensure it remains consumable. Pay attention not to allow chlorine into the desalination system, as this could damage the device."
I am not sure how Dessalator assumes that we "not to allow chlorine into the desalination system without a carbon filter to block the chlorine.

Regarding fresh water being a problem for membranes, I disagree and don't think so...the manual states:
 The membranes should be permanently immersed in liquid, either sea water before treatment, fresh water provisionally stored or sterilizing liquid, if the desalinator is not used for extended periods of time (Sterilizer is effective for six months and must be replaced after this period of time).

I believe the two biggest enemies of the Dessalator system are:
  • Chlorine
  • Dried membranes
  • Sterilizing or Cleaning chemicals (same chemical, but Dessalator uses both terms)
  • Overdosing Sterilizing or Cleaning chemical. I think that if you absolutely have to do this, use 50% of the quantity of chemical and do not leave the chemical in the membrane tubes, but rather flush with tank water for 15 minutes. The chemical is caustic!
Flushing regularly and after each use, or a minimum of once a week---for 6 minutes, with tank water, and using a carbon filter to block any chlorine is the best thing you can do.

All that said, I am no expert. My knowledge has been gained through years of sometimes costly experience.

Bill
BeBe 387


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thank you Kent !!! Loose bolt in C-drive and broken spurrs

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Good morning Bill,

In September 2013:
Spurs Zinc B was $12
Spurs Bearing Kit B was $13
Spurs B Plugs + Screws set of 2 were $3.00

In March 2015:
Reconditioning of the Spurs B was $125
Spare Spurs B Stationary cutter half with blade was $150
New Spurs B system was $475

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Grand Bahama


--------------------------------------------

On Sun, 7/12/15, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@svbebe.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thank you Kent !!! Loose bolt in C-drive and broken spurrs
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, July 12, 2015, 12:00 AM


 









Spurs sells what I think is an
overhaul kit which contains the two halves, new plastic
inserts, small bolts for the two halves, and possibly a
zinc. I cannot remember the price, but I thought it was
high.
Bill Rouse

BeBe Amel 53 #387

Sent from my tablet

+39 333 121 8115 Italy Mobile

+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail
On Jul 12, 2015 1:26
AM, "sailormon kimberlite@optonline.net
[amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
wrote:















 









Hi,I hauled Kimberlite
today to fix some water intrusion in the
C-Drive.After reading what you
had done and some of Olivier’s explanation as to what was
hiding under that black silicone button on the foot of the
C-drive.
I cur away the silicone and found
the bolt in question. I was amazed to find that it was loose
enough that I could turn it with my fingers. I tightened it
with a 30 mm socket that I use for the prop
puller.I was wondering if it
can be removed and put a thread sealant on it, Also, in the
past when I used a lot of silicone to close something up ,
It took many days to harden. Is there something special that
you used to seal the bolt? When taking the spurs
line cutter off the shaft I also noted that one of the two
small cap screws was missing along with a piece of the spurs
unit.Fair
WindsEricKimberlite Amel Super
Maramu #376   
 






























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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Water maker

Andrew & Kate Lamb
 

Hi all 

Quick question - just crossing the Balearic sea to Minorca and have been checking the water maker - water tastes ok and green light is on but I recently got a TDS meter and it tells me the TDS is 1300 ppm - I think I read on this forum that the threshold for changing the membrane is 600?

Thanks

Andrew
Ronpische
SM472


On 11 Jul 2015, at 15:11, peter killen peterkillen@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi All
The answer to my problem turned out to be the high pressure switch which had defaulted. We can operate the system on 24v for the present until I can get a replacement part. 
Kind regards 
Peter
S/M 433 Pure Magic


On 10 Jul 2015, at 10:07, yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Keith,


For some reason my reply to you was broken in half by something.

I will try again.

Keith,

Maybe I misunderstood your earlier email where you said, "...water is pumped through the system and out through the hull..." The pressure valve is designed to increase pressure to the outside of the membranes by restricting the outflow...thus increasing pressure. It is actually very simple. 

I would not run the water maker until you find the source of the problem which could be:
  1. Source of saltwater is restricted by a closed valve, clogged prefilter(s), clogged line, supply pump (sometimes referred to as low pressure pump), not working or clogged. 
  2. Failure of the HP pump, which could be failed ceramic pistons, cracked head, or loose head (I had this "loose head" thing happen to me...bolts loosened and no pressure...tightened them up and all was good).
  3. Failure of the connection between the motor and the HP pump
  4. Dump valve stuck open (if you have this...I think newer systems do).
  5. Pressure adjustment valve not working correctly...i.e. not actually closing to increase pressure.
Some of your other questions:
Yes, a carbon filter will remove chlorine. I have seen many water maker installations with a carbon filter in-line with the flush line. I do not know why this is not standard on the Dessalator systems. The Dessalator Manual says: "Please note that the drinking water produced by your reverse osmosis system is essentially sterile, however, your fresh water storage should be treated periodically with chlorine or iodine to ensure it remains consumable. Pay attention not to allow chlorine into the desalination system, as this could damage the device."
I am not sure how Dessalator assumes that we "not to allow chlorine into the desalination system without a carbon filter to block the chlorine.

Regarding fresh water being a problem for membranes, I disagree and don't think so...the manual states:
 The membranes should be permanently immersed in liquid, either sea water before treatment, fresh water provisionally stored or sterilizing liquid, if the desalinator is not used for extended periods of time (Sterilizer is effective for six months and must be replaced after this period of time).

I believe the two biggest enemies of the Dessalator system are:
  • Chlorine
  • Dried membranes
  • Sterilizing or Cleaning chemicals (same chemical, but Dessalator uses both terms)
  • Overdosing Sterilizing or Cleaning chemical. I think that if you absolutely have to do this, use 50% of the quantity of chemical and do not leave the chemical in the membrane tubes, but rather flush with tank water for 15 minutes. The chemical is caustic!
Flushing regularly and after each use, or a minimum of once a week---for 6 minutes, with tank water, and using a carbon filter to block any chlorine is the best thing you can do.

All that said, I am no expert. My knowledge has been gained through years of sometimes costly experience.

Bill
BeBe 387


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thank you Kent !!! Loose bolt in C-drive and broken spurrs

eric freedman
 

Hi Bill,

The overhaul kit contains 1 Zinc, 2 halves of a nylon bearing surface, a set of bumpers ,and some cap screws-“kit B’

I have the piece with one cutting blade which has a zinc mounted to it. This piece is broken where the small set screw mounts. It rides in the nylon bearing surfaces and is part of the body of the Spurrs.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Sunday, July 12, 2015 1:00 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thank you Kent !!! Loose bolt in C-drive and broken spurrs

 

 

Spurs sells what I think is an overhaul kit which contains the two halves, new plastic inserts, small bolts for the two halves, and possibly a zinc. I cannot remember the price, but I thought it was high.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+39 333 121 8115 Italy Mobile
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On Jul 12, 2015 1:26 AM, "sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi,

I hauled Kimberlite today to fix some water intrusion in the C-Drive.

After reading what you had done and some of Olivier’s explanation as to what was hiding under that black silicone button on the foot of the C-drive.
I cur away the silicone and found the bolt in question. I was amazed to find that it was loose enough that I could turn it with my fingers. I tightened it with a 30 mm socket that I use for the prop puller.

I was wondering if it can be removed and put a thread sealant on it, Also, in the past when I used a lot of silicone to close something up , It took many days to harden. Is there something special that you used to seal the bolt?

 

When taking the spurs line cutter off the shaft I also noted that one of the two small cap screws was missing along with a piece of the spurs unit.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thank you Kent !!! Loose bolt in C-drive and broken spurrs

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Spurs sells what I think is an overhaul kit which contains the two halves, new plastic inserts, small bolts for the two halves, and possibly a zinc. I cannot remember the price, but I thought it was high.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+39 333 121 8115 Italy Mobile
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On Jul 12, 2015 1:26 AM, "sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi,

I hauled Kimberlite today to fix some water intrusion in the C-Drive.

After reading what you had done and some of Olivier’s explanation as to what was hiding under that black silicone button on the foot of the C-drive.
I cur away the silicone and found the bolt in question. I was amazed to find that it was loose enough that I could turn it with my fingers. I tightened it with a 30 mm socket that I use for the prop puller.

I was wondering if it can be removed and put a thread sealant on it, Also, in the past when I used a lot of silicone to close something up , It took many days to harden. Is there something special that you used to seal the bolt?

 

When taking the spurs line cutter off the shaft I also noted that one of the two small cap screws was missing along with a piece of the spurs unit.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Trip to Long Island Sound

karkauai
 

I put a request for crew in with OPO 3 days ago, Eric.  Told Hank you suggested I contact him.  I've already gotten 15 or so replies, many of whom have more offshore experience than I do.  I'll be doing 2-4 day hops on the way South so hope to get several different folks aboard by the time I do the passage to Central America.
Kent


On Jul 11, 2015, at 11:13 PM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent,

Have you selected crew yet?

If not speak to  Hank at OPO and mention my name.

He will give you the scoop on possible candidates for crew.

I should be on Long Island in October . I usually head straight to the Caribbean about October 28.

I expect to be in Colombia by November 12.

Do stop at Block Island it is a lovely quiet Island.

Try to go through Manhattan at night, It is beautiful.

However when you approach Hells Gate, make sure you head towards Manhattan and not to the east side

of  Roosevelt Island- there is a 40 foot bridge on that side.

Fair Winds

Eric

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, July 11, 2015 11:04 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thank you Kent !!! Loose bolt in C-drive and broken spurrs

 

 

My son is bringing his young family to Deltaville for a little sailing on the Chesapeake from the 17th til the 23rd.  Will leave shortly after that and go straight to Cape Cod.  I've got a couple guys from OPO to help do that 3-4 day sail.  Will cruise that area until the first week of Sept then start hopping South thru Newport, Long Island  Sound to NYC by early Oct.  then down to Brunswick or Fernandina befor the first of Nov.  after Christmas will go to Turks and Caicos, then Key West, ?Cuba, and New Orleans (sister and nieces live there).  Passage from there to Central America end of May.

Where are you going to be? Hope we can meet somewhere.

Kent


On Jul 11, 2015, at 8:50 PM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent,

Thanks!

I will check it tomorrow.

When do you think you will be heading up this way?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, July 11, 2015 8:48 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thank you Kent !!! Loose bolt in C-drive and broken spurrs

 

 

I can't surf the net right now, Eric.  I'll find it tomorrow.

The hole in the lower CDrive (what I'm calling the Foot) where the bolt goes through is about 8 cm in diameter.  The bolt goes through a stainless sleeve (thin, less than a mm thick with a collar at the top).  Between the sleeve and the foot are two pieces of rubber hose, one inside the other, that fit snugly around the sleeve and snugly into the hole through the foot.  They absorb any shock when the drive is put in gear, and vibration when running.  If you can wiggle the foot back and forth when the bolt is in place, those rubber bushings are worn and should be replaced.  The Foot should be immobile when bolted to the keel.

 

There is a rubber washer between the bottom of the foot and the keel that I guess should keep water out of the threads, but I'm skeptical that it's tight enough to do the job.  I don't really see what good the sealant does on top of the bolt, since it is going through the sleeve and is also "protected" from below by the iffy rubber washer.   Like I said, on Kristy there was no sealant on top of the bolt and it looked like new.  I don't know what kind of thread protector was used before, but the bolt held firmly and came out without too much difficulty.  I'll see if I can find it, but I think the instructions from Amel said NOT to use a thread lock.

More tomorrow.

Kent

SM243

Kristy

Currently Deltaville VA


On Jul 11, 2015, at 8:10 PM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent,

My C-Drive bolt was sealed with a rubbery substance and was slightly domed at the top , I always thought it was a rubber cap for something.

I do not understand what you are speaking about with respect to the bushings.

Could you Please direct me to a drawing of the drive. I know it is somewhere on our site.

Fair Winds

Eric

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, July 11, 2015 7:59 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thank you Kent !!! Loose bolt in C-drive and broken spurrs

 

 

Hi Eric,

There wasn't anything sealing the top of the bolt on Kristy.  It was exposed and looked to be in fine shape.  Makes me wonder if the CDrive had been removed before I bought her.  I put some waterproof grease (lanocote) on the threads before bolting it back down.  Since I'm on the hard again, I'll be interested to hear what Olivier says about sealing it.  

 

Are you able to wiggle the lower drive side to side at all?  If so you may need new rubber bushings that go between the stainless sleeve and the "foot".  There are two pieces of rubber hose (one big enough to fit snugly over the other) that go into the hole in the foot.  The steel sleeve goes inside the smaller hose, and the bolt goes through the sleeve.

 

Kent

SM 243

Kristy


On Jul 11, 2015, at 7:25 PM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi,

I hauled Kimberlite today to fix some water intrusion in the C-Drive.

After reading what you had done and some of Olivier’s explanation as to what was hiding under that black silicone button on the foot of the C-drive.
I cur away the silicone and found the bolt in question. I was amazed to find that it was loose enough that I could turn it with my fingers. I tightened it with a 30 mm socket that I use for the prop puller.

I was wondering if it can be removed and put a thread sealant on it, Also, in the past when I used a lot of silicone to close something up , It took many days to harden. Is there something special that you used to seal the bolt?

 

When taking the spurs line cutter off the shaft I also noted that one of the two small cap screws was missing along with a piece of the spurs unit.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376