Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Water maker

Andrew & Kate Lamb
 

Hi all 

Quick question - just crossing the Balearic sea to Minorca and have been checking the water maker - water tastes ok and green light is on but I recently got a TDS meter and it tells me the TDS is 1300 ppm - I think I read on this forum that the threshold for changing the membrane is 600?

Thanks

Andrew
Ronpische
SM472


On 11 Jul 2015, at 15:11, peter killen peterkillen@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi All
The answer to my problem turned out to be the high pressure switch which had defaulted. We can operate the system on 24v for the present until I can get a replacement part. 
Kind regards 
Peter
S/M 433 Pure Magic


On 10 Jul 2015, at 10:07, yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Keith,


For some reason my reply to you was broken in half by something.

I will try again.

Keith,

Maybe I misunderstood your earlier email where you said, "...water is pumped through the system and out through the hull..." The pressure valve is designed to increase pressure to the outside of the membranes by restricting the outflow...thus increasing pressure. It is actually very simple. 

I would not run the water maker until you find the source of the problem which could be:
  1. Source of saltwater is restricted by a closed valve, clogged prefilter(s), clogged line, supply pump (sometimes referred to as low pressure pump), not working or clogged. 
  2. Failure of the HP pump, which could be failed ceramic pistons, cracked head, or loose head (I had this "loose head" thing happen to me...bolts loosened and no pressure...tightened them up and all was good).
  3. Failure of the connection between the motor and the HP pump
  4. Dump valve stuck open (if you have this...I think newer systems do).
  5. Pressure adjustment valve not working correctly...i.e. not actually closing to increase pressure.
Some of your other questions:
Yes, a carbon filter will remove chlorine. I have seen many water maker installations with a carbon filter in-line with the flush line. I do not know why this is not standard on the Dessalator systems. The Dessalator Manual says: "Please note that the drinking water produced by your reverse osmosis system is essentially sterile, however, your fresh water storage should be treated periodically with chlorine or iodine to ensure it remains consumable. Pay attention not to allow chlorine into the desalination system, as this could damage the device."
I am not sure how Dessalator assumes that we "not to allow chlorine into the desalination system without a carbon filter to block the chlorine.

Regarding fresh water being a problem for membranes, I disagree and don't think so...the manual states:
 The membranes should be permanently immersed in liquid, either sea water before treatment, fresh water provisionally stored or sterilizing liquid, if the desalinator is not used for extended periods of time (Sterilizer is effective for six months and must be replaced after this period of time).

I believe the two biggest enemies of the Dessalator system are:
  • Chlorine
  • Dried membranes
  • Sterilizing or Cleaning chemicals (same chemical, but Dessalator uses both terms)
  • Overdosing Sterilizing or Cleaning chemical. I think that if you absolutely have to do this, use 50% of the quantity of chemical and do not leave the chemical in the membrane tubes, but rather flush with tank water for 15 minutes. The chemical is caustic!
Flushing regularly and after each use, or a minimum of once a week---for 6 minutes, with tank water, and using a carbon filter to block any chlorine is the best thing you can do.

All that said, I am no expert. My knowledge has been gained through years of sometimes costly experience.

Bill
BeBe 387


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thank you Kent !!! Loose bolt in C-drive and broken spurrs

eric freedman
 

Hi Bill,

The overhaul kit contains 1 Zinc, 2 halves of a nylon bearing surface, a set of bumpers ,and some cap screws-“kit B’

I have the piece with one cutting blade which has a zinc mounted to it. This piece is broken where the small set screw mounts. It rides in the nylon bearing surfaces and is part of the body of the Spurrs.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Sunday, July 12, 2015 1:00 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thank you Kent !!! Loose bolt in C-drive and broken spurrs

 

 

Spurs sells what I think is an overhaul kit which contains the two halves, new plastic inserts, small bolts for the two halves, and possibly a zinc. I cannot remember the price, but I thought it was high.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+39 333 121 8115 Italy Mobile
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On Jul 12, 2015 1:26 AM, "sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi,

I hauled Kimberlite today to fix some water intrusion in the C-Drive.

After reading what you had done and some of Olivier’s explanation as to what was hiding under that black silicone button on the foot of the C-drive.
I cur away the silicone and found the bolt in question. I was amazed to find that it was loose enough that I could turn it with my fingers. I tightened it with a 30 mm socket that I use for the prop puller.

I was wondering if it can be removed and put a thread sealant on it, Also, in the past when I used a lot of silicone to close something up , It took many days to harden. Is there something special that you used to seal the bolt?

 

When taking the spurs line cutter off the shaft I also noted that one of the two small cap screws was missing along with a piece of the spurs unit.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thank you Kent !!! Loose bolt in C-drive and broken spurrs

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Spurs sells what I think is an overhaul kit which contains the two halves, new plastic inserts, small bolts for the two halves, and possibly a zinc. I cannot remember the price, but I thought it was high.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+39 333 121 8115 Italy Mobile
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On Jul 12, 2015 1:26 AM, "sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi,

I hauled Kimberlite today to fix some water intrusion in the C-Drive.

After reading what you had done and some of Olivier’s explanation as to what was hiding under that black silicone button on the foot of the C-drive.
I cur away the silicone and found the bolt in question. I was amazed to find that it was loose enough that I could turn it with my fingers. I tightened it with a 30 mm socket that I use for the prop puller.

I was wondering if it can be removed and put a thread sealant on it, Also, in the past when I used a lot of silicone to close something up , It took many days to harden. Is there something special that you used to seal the bolt?

 

When taking the spurs line cutter off the shaft I also noted that one of the two small cap screws was missing along with a piece of the spurs unit.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Trip to Long Island Sound

karkauai
 

I put a request for crew in with OPO 3 days ago, Eric.  Told Hank you suggested I contact him.  I've already gotten 15 or so replies, many of whom have more offshore experience than I do.  I'll be doing 2-4 day hops on the way South so hope to get several different folks aboard by the time I do the passage to Central America.
Kent


On Jul 11, 2015, at 11:13 PM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent,

Have you selected crew yet?

If not speak to  Hank at OPO and mention my name.

He will give you the scoop on possible candidates for crew.

I should be on Long Island in October . I usually head straight to the Caribbean about October 28.

I expect to be in Colombia by November 12.

Do stop at Block Island it is a lovely quiet Island.

Try to go through Manhattan at night, It is beautiful.

However when you approach Hells Gate, make sure you head towards Manhattan and not to the east side

of  Roosevelt Island- there is a 40 foot bridge on that side.

Fair Winds

Eric

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, July 11, 2015 11:04 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thank you Kent !!! Loose bolt in C-drive and broken spurrs

 

 

My son is bringing his young family to Deltaville for a little sailing on the Chesapeake from the 17th til the 23rd.  Will leave shortly after that and go straight to Cape Cod.  I've got a couple guys from OPO to help do that 3-4 day sail.  Will cruise that area until the first week of Sept then start hopping South thru Newport, Long Island  Sound to NYC by early Oct.  then down to Brunswick or Fernandina befor the first of Nov.  after Christmas will go to Turks and Caicos, then Key West, ?Cuba, and New Orleans (sister and nieces live there).  Passage from there to Central America end of May.

Where are you going to be? Hope we can meet somewhere.

Kent


On Jul 11, 2015, at 8:50 PM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent,

Thanks!

I will check it tomorrow.

When do you think you will be heading up this way?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, July 11, 2015 8:48 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thank you Kent !!! Loose bolt in C-drive and broken spurrs

 

 

I can't surf the net right now, Eric.  I'll find it tomorrow.

The hole in the lower CDrive (what I'm calling the Foot) where the bolt goes through is about 8 cm in diameter.  The bolt goes through a stainless sleeve (thin, less than a mm thick with a collar at the top).  Between the sleeve and the foot are two pieces of rubber hose, one inside the other, that fit snugly around the sleeve and snugly into the hole through the foot.  They absorb any shock when the drive is put in gear, and vibration when running.  If you can wiggle the foot back and forth when the bolt is in place, those rubber bushings are worn and should be replaced.  The Foot should be immobile when bolted to the keel.

 

There is a rubber washer between the bottom of the foot and the keel that I guess should keep water out of the threads, but I'm skeptical that it's tight enough to do the job.  I don't really see what good the sealant does on top of the bolt, since it is going through the sleeve and is also "protected" from below by the iffy rubber washer.   Like I said, on Kristy there was no sealant on top of the bolt and it looked like new.  I don't know what kind of thread protector was used before, but the bolt held firmly and came out without too much difficulty.  I'll see if I can find it, but I think the instructions from Amel said NOT to use a thread lock.

More tomorrow.

Kent

SM243

Kristy

Currently Deltaville VA


On Jul 11, 2015, at 8:10 PM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent,

My C-Drive bolt was sealed with a rubbery substance and was slightly domed at the top , I always thought it was a rubber cap for something.

I do not understand what you are speaking about with respect to the bushings.

Could you Please direct me to a drawing of the drive. I know it is somewhere on our site.

Fair Winds

Eric

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, July 11, 2015 7:59 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thank you Kent !!! Loose bolt in C-drive and broken spurrs

 

 

Hi Eric,

There wasn't anything sealing the top of the bolt on Kristy.  It was exposed and looked to be in fine shape.  Makes me wonder if the CDrive had been removed before I bought her.  I put some waterproof grease (lanocote) on the threads before bolting it back down.  Since I'm on the hard again, I'll be interested to hear what Olivier says about sealing it.  

 

Are you able to wiggle the lower drive side to side at all?  If so you may need new rubber bushings that go between the stainless sleeve and the "foot".  There are two pieces of rubber hose (one big enough to fit snugly over the other) that go into the hole in the foot.  The steel sleeve goes inside the smaller hose, and the bolt goes through the sleeve.

 

Kent

SM 243

Kristy


On Jul 11, 2015, at 7:25 PM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi,

I hauled Kimberlite today to fix some water intrusion in the C-Drive.

After reading what you had done and some of Olivier’s explanation as to what was hiding under that black silicone button on the foot of the C-drive.
I cur away the silicone and found the bolt in question. I was amazed to find that it was loose enough that I could turn it with my fingers. I tightened it with a 30 mm socket that I use for the prop puller.

I was wondering if it can be removed and put a thread sealant on it, Also, in the past when I used a lot of silicone to close something up , It took many days to harden. Is there something special that you used to seal the bolt?

 

When taking the spurs line cutter off the shaft I also noted that one of the two small cap screws was missing along with a piece of the spurs unit.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] C-Drive drain .

karkauai
 

Great idea Eric!
Kent


On Jul 11, 2015, at 10:52 PM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Does anyone know what the thread is on the C-drive drain?

I would like to make a thin wall pipe with that thread to get most of the oil away from the keel.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 


Trip to Long Island Sound

eric freedman
 

Kent,

Have you selected crew yet?

If not speak to  Hank at OPO and mention my name.

He will give you the scoop on possible candidates for crew.

I should be on Long Island in October . I usually head straight to the Caribbean about October 28.

I expect to be in Colombia by November 12.

Do stop at Block Island it is a lovely quiet Island.

Try to go through Manhattan at night, It is beautiful.

However when you approach Hells Gate, make sure you head towards Manhattan and not to the east side

of  Roosevelt Island- there is a 40 foot bridge on that side.

Fair Winds

Eric

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, July 11, 2015 11:04 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thank you Kent !!! Loose bolt in C-drive and broken spurrs

 

 

My son is bringing his young family to Deltaville for a little sailing on the Chesapeake from the 17th til the 23rd.  Will leave shortly after that and go straight to Cape Cod.  I've got a couple guys from OPO to help do that 3-4 day sail.  Will cruise that area until the first week of Sept then start hopping South thru Newport, Long Island  Sound to NYC by early Oct.  then down to Brunswick or Fernandina befor the first of Nov.  after Christmas will go to Turks and Caicos, then Key West, ?Cuba, and New Orleans (sister and nieces live there).  Passage from there to Central America end of May.

Where are you going to be? Hope we can meet somewhere.

Kent


On Jul 11, 2015, at 8:50 PM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent,

Thanks!

I will check it tomorrow.

When do you think you will be heading up this way?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, July 11, 2015 8:48 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thank you Kent !!! Loose bolt in C-drive and broken spurrs

 

 

I can't surf the net right now, Eric.  I'll find it tomorrow.

The hole in the lower CDrive (what I'm calling the Foot) where the bolt goes through is about 8 cm in diameter.  The bolt goes through a stainless sleeve (thin, less than a mm thick with a collar at the top).  Between the sleeve and the foot are two pieces of rubber hose, one inside the other, that fit snugly around the sleeve and snugly into the hole through the foot.  They absorb any shock when the drive is put in gear, and vibration when running.  If you can wiggle the foot back and forth when the bolt is in place, those rubber bushings are worn and should be replaced.  The Foot should be immobile when bolted to the keel.

 

There is a rubber washer between the bottom of the foot and the keel that I guess should keep water out of the threads, but I'm skeptical that it's tight enough to do the job.  I don't really see what good the sealant does on top of the bolt, since it is going through the sleeve and is also "protected" from below by the iffy rubber washer.   Like I said, on Kristy there was no sealant on top of the bolt and it looked like new.  I don't know what kind of thread protector was used before, but the bolt held firmly and came out without too much difficulty.  I'll see if I can find it, but I think the instructions from Amel said NOT to use a thread lock.

More tomorrow.

Kent

SM243

Kristy

Currently Deltaville VA


On Jul 11, 2015, at 8:10 PM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent,

My C-Drive bolt was sealed with a rubbery substance and was slightly domed at the top , I always thought it was a rubber cap for something.

I do not understand what you are speaking about with respect to the bushings.

Could you Please direct me to a drawing of the drive. I know it is somewhere on our site.

Fair Winds

Eric

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, July 11, 2015 7:59 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thank you Kent !!! Loose bolt in C-drive and broken spurrs

 

 

Hi Eric,

There wasn't anything sealing the top of the bolt on Kristy.  It was exposed and looked to be in fine shape.  Makes me wonder if the CDrive had been removed before I bought her.  I put some waterproof grease (lanocote) on the threads before bolting it back down.  Since I'm on the hard again, I'll be interested to hear what Olivier says about sealing it.  

 

Are you able to wiggle the lower drive side to side at all?  If so you may need new rubber bushings that go between the stainless sleeve and the "foot".  There are two pieces of rubber hose (one big enough to fit snugly over the other) that go into the hole in the foot.  The steel sleeve goes inside the smaller hose, and the bolt goes through the sleeve.

 

Kent

SM 243

Kristy


On Jul 11, 2015, at 7:25 PM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi,

I hauled Kimberlite today to fix some water intrusion in the C-Drive.

After reading what you had done and some of Olivier’s explanation as to what was hiding under that black silicone button on the foot of the C-drive.
I cur away the silicone and found the bolt in question. I was amazed to find that it was loose enough that I could turn it with my fingers. I tightened it with a 30 mm socket that I use for the prop puller.

I was wondering if it can be removed and put a thread sealant on it, Also, in the past when I used a lot of silicone to close something up , It took many days to harden. Is there something special that you used to seal the bolt?

 

When taking the spurs line cutter off the shaft I also noted that one of the two small cap screws was missing along with a piece of the spurs unit.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thank you Kent !!! Loose bolt in C-drive and broken spurrs

karkauai
 

My son is bringing his young family to Deltaville for a little sailing on the Chesapeake from the 17th til the 23rd.  Will leave shortly after that and go straight to Cape Cod.  I've got a couple guys from OPO to help do that 3-4 day sail.  Will cruise that area until the first week of Sept then start hopping South thru Newport, Long Island  Sound to NYC by early Oct.  then down to Brunswick or Fernandina befor the first of Nov.  after Christmas will go to Turks and Caicos, then Key West, ?Cuba, and New Orleans (sister and nieces live there).  Passage from there to Central America end of May.
Where are you going to be? Hope we can meet somewhere.
Kent


On Jul 11, 2015, at 8:50 PM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent,

Thanks!

I will check it tomorrow.

When do you think you will be heading up this way?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, July 11, 2015 8:48 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thank you Kent !!! Loose bolt in C-drive and broken spurrs

 

 

I can't surf the net right now, Eric.  I'll find it tomorrow.

The hole in the lower CDrive (what I'm calling the Foot) where the bolt goes through is about 8 cm in diameter.  The bolt goes through a stainless sleeve (thin, less than a mm thick with a collar at the top).  Between the sleeve and the foot are two pieces of rubber hose, one inside the other, that fit snugly around the sleeve and snugly into the hole through the foot.  They absorb any shock when the drive is put in gear, and vibration when running.  If you can wiggle the foot back and forth when the bolt is in place, those rubber bushings are worn and should be replaced.  The Foot should be immobile when bolted to the keel.

 

There is a rubber washer between the bottom of the foot and the keel that I guess should keep water out of the threads, but I'm skeptical that it's tight enough to do the job.  I don't really see what good the sealant does on top of the bolt, since it is going through the sleeve and is also "protected" from below by the iffy rubber washer.   Like I said, on Kristy there was no sealant on top of the bolt and it looked like new.  I don't know what kind of thread protector was used before, but the bolt held firmly and came out without too much difficulty.  I'll see if I can find it, but I think the instructions from Amel said NOT to use a thread lock.

More tomorrow.

Kent

SM243

Kristy

Currently Deltaville VA


On Jul 11, 2015, at 8:10 PM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent,

My C-Drive bolt was sealed with a rubbery substance and was slightly domed at the top , I always thought it was a rubber cap for something.

I do not understand what you are speaking about with respect to the bushings.

Could you Please direct me to a drawing of the drive. I know it is somewhere on our site.

Fair Winds

Eric

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, July 11, 2015 7:59 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thank you Kent !!! Loose bolt in C-drive and broken spurrs

 

 

Hi Eric,

There wasn't anything sealing the top of the bolt on Kristy.  It was exposed and looked to be in fine shape.  Makes me wonder if the CDrive had been removed before I bought her.  I put some waterproof grease (lanocote) on the threads before bolting it back down.  Since I'm on the hard again, I'll be interested to hear what Olivier says about sealing it.  

 

Are you able to wiggle the lower drive side to side at all?  If so you may need new rubber bushings that go between the stainless sleeve and the "foot".  There are two pieces of rubber hose (one big enough to fit snugly over the other) that go into the hole in the foot.  The steel sleeve goes inside the smaller hose, and the bolt goes through the sleeve.

 

Kent

SM 243

Kristy


On Jul 11, 2015, at 7:25 PM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi,

I hauled Kimberlite today to fix some water intrusion in the C-Drive.

After reading what you had done and some of Olivier’s explanation as to what was hiding under that black silicone button on the foot of the C-drive.
I cur away the silicone and found the bolt in question. I was amazed to find that it was loose enough that I could turn it with my fingers. I tightened it with a 30 mm socket that I use for the prop puller.

I was wondering if it can be removed and put a thread sealant on it, Also, in the past when I used a lot of silicone to close something up , It took many days to harden. Is there something special that you used to seal the bolt?

 

When taking the spurs line cutter off the shaft I also noted that one of the two small cap screws was missing along with a piece of the spurs unit.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

 


C-Drive drain .

eric freedman
 

Does anyone know what the thread is on the C-drive drain?

I would like to make a thin wall pipe with that thread to get most of the oil away from the keel.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thank you Kent !!! Loose bolt in C-drive and broken spurrs

eric freedman
 

Kent,

Thanks!

I will check it tomorrow.

When do you think you will be heading up this way?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, July 11, 2015 8:48 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thank you Kent !!! Loose bolt in C-drive and broken spurrs

 

 

I can't surf the net right now, Eric.  I'll find it tomorrow.

The hole in the lower CDrive (what I'm calling the Foot) where the bolt goes through is about 8 cm in diameter.  The bolt goes through a stainless sleeve (thin, less than a mm thick with a collar at the top).  Between the sleeve and the foot are two pieces of rubber hose, one inside the other, that fit snugly around the sleeve and snugly into the hole through the foot.  They absorb any shock when the drive is put in gear, and vibration when running.  If you can wiggle the foot back and forth when the bolt is in place, those rubber bushings are worn and should be replaced.  The Foot should be immobile when bolted to the keel.

 

There is a rubber washer between the bottom of the foot and the keel that I guess should keep water out of the threads, but I'm skeptical that it's tight enough to do the job.  I don't really see what good the sealant does on top of the bolt, since it is going through the sleeve and is also "protected" from below by the iffy rubber washer.   Like I said, on Kristy there was no sealant on top of the bolt and it looked like new.  I don't know what kind of thread protector was used before, but the bolt held firmly and came out without too much difficulty.  I'll see if I can find it, but I think the instructions from Amel said NOT to use a thread lock.

More tomorrow.

Kent

SM243

Kristy

Currently Deltaville VA


On Jul 11, 2015, at 8:10 PM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent,

My C-Drive bolt was sealed with a rubbery substance and was slightly domed at the top , I always thought it was a rubber cap for something.

I do not understand what you are speaking about with respect to the bushings.

Could you Please direct me to a drawing of the drive. I know it is somewhere on our site.

Fair Winds

Eric

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, July 11, 2015 7:59 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thank you Kent !!! Loose bolt in C-drive and broken spurrs

 

 

Hi Eric,

There wasn't anything sealing the top of the bolt on Kristy.  It was exposed and looked to be in fine shape.  Makes me wonder if the CDrive had been removed before I bought her.  I put some waterproof grease (lanocote) on the threads before bolting it back down.  Since I'm on the hard again, I'll be interested to hear what Olivier says about sealing it.  

 

Are you able to wiggle the lower drive side to side at all?  If so you may need new rubber bushings that go between the stainless sleeve and the "foot".  There are two pieces of rubber hose (one big enough to fit snugly over the other) that go into the hole in the foot.  The steel sleeve goes inside the smaller hose, and the bolt goes through the sleeve.

 

Kent

SM 243

Kristy


On Jul 11, 2015, at 7:25 PM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi,

I hauled Kimberlite today to fix some water intrusion in the C-Drive.

After reading what you had done and some of Olivier’s explanation as to what was hiding under that black silicone button on the foot of the C-drive.
I cur away the silicone and found the bolt in question. I was amazed to find that it was loose enough that I could turn it with my fingers. I tightened it with a 30 mm socket that I use for the prop puller.

I was wondering if it can be removed and put a thread sealant on it, Also, in the past when I used a lot of silicone to close something up , It took many days to harden. Is there something special that you used to seal the bolt?

 

When taking the spurs line cutter off the shaft I also noted that one of the two small cap screws was missing along with a piece of the spurs unit.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thank you Kent !!! Loose bolt in C-drive and broken spurrs

karkauai
 

I can't surf the net right now, Eric.  I'll find it tomorrow.
The hole in the lower CDrive (what I'm calling the Foot) where the bolt goes through is about 8 cm in diameter.  The bolt goes through a stainless sleeve (thin, less than a mm thick with a collar at the top).  Between the sleeve and the foot are two pieces of rubber hose, one inside the other, that fit snugly around the sleeve and snugly into the hole through the foot.  They absorb any shock when the drive is put in gear, and vibration when running.  If you can wiggle the foot back and forth when the bolt is in place, those rubber bushings are worn and should be replaced.  The Foot should be immobile when bolted to the keel.

There is a rubber washer between the bottom of the foot and the keel that I guess should keep water out of the threads, but I'm skeptical that it's tight enough to do the job.  I don't really see what good the sealant does on top of the bolt, since it is going through the sleeve and is also "protected" from below by the iffy rubber washer.   Like I said, on Kristy there was no sealant on top of the bolt and it looked like new.  I don't know what kind of thread protector was used before, but the bolt held firmly and came out without too much difficulty.  I'll see if I can find it, but I think the instructions from Amel said NOT to use a thread lock.
More tomorrow.
Kent
SM243
Kristy
Currently Deltaville VA


On Jul 11, 2015, at 8:10 PM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent,

My C-Drive bolt was sealed with a rubbery substance and was slightly domed at the top , I always thought it was a rubber cap for something.

I do not understand what you are speaking about with respect to the bushings.

Could you Please direct me to a drawing of the drive. I know it is somewhere on our site.

Fair Winds

Eric

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, July 11, 2015 7:59 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thank you Kent !!! Loose bolt in C-drive and broken spurrs

 

 

Hi Eric,

There wasn't anything sealing the top of the bolt on Kristy.  It was exposed and looked to be in fine shape.  Makes me wonder if the CDrive had been removed before I bought her.  I put some waterproof grease (lanocote) on the threads before bolting it back down.  Since I'm on the hard again, I'll be interested to hear what Olivier says about sealing it.  

 

Are you able to wiggle the lower drive side to side at all?  If so you may need new rubber bushings that go between the stainless sleeve and the "foot".  There are two pieces of rubber hose (one big enough to fit snugly over the other) that go into the hole in the foot.  The steel sleeve goes inside the smaller hose, and the bolt goes through the sleeve.

 

Kent

SM 243

Kristy


On Jul 11, 2015, at 7:25 PM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi,

I hauled Kimberlite today to fix some water intrusion in the C-Drive.

After reading what you had done and some of Olivier’s explanation as to what was hiding under that black silicone button on the foot of the C-drive.
I cur away the silicone and found the bolt in question. I was amazed to find that it was loose enough that I could turn it with my fingers. I tightened it with a 30 mm socket that I use for the prop puller.

I was wondering if it can be removed and put a thread sealant on it, Also, in the past when I used a lot of silicone to close something up , It took many days to harden. Is there something special that you used to seal the bolt?

 

When taking the spurs line cutter off the shaft I also noted that one of the two small cap screws was missing along with a piece of the spurs unit.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thank you Kent !!! Loose bolt in C-drive and broken spurrs

eric freedman
 

Kent,

My C-Drive bolt was sealed with a rubbery substance and was slightly domed at the top , I always thought it was a rubber cap for something.

I do not understand what you are speaking about with respect to the bushings.

Could you Please direct me to a drawing of the drive. I know it is somewhere on our site.

Fair Winds

Eric

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, July 11, 2015 7:59 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thank you Kent !!! Loose bolt in C-drive and broken spurrs

 

 

Hi Eric,

There wasn't anything sealing the top of the bolt on Kristy.  It was exposed and looked to be in fine shape.  Makes me wonder if the CDrive had been removed before I bought her.  I put some waterproof grease (lanocote) on the threads before bolting it back down.  Since I'm on the hard again, I'll be interested to hear what Olivier says about sealing it.  

 

Are you able to wiggle the lower drive side to side at all?  If so you may need new rubber bushings that go between the stainless sleeve and the "foot".  There are two pieces of rubber hose (one big enough to fit snugly over the other) that go into the hole in the foot.  The steel sleeve goes inside the smaller hose, and the bolt goes through the sleeve.

 

Kent

SM 243

Kristy


On Jul 11, 2015, at 7:25 PM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi,

I hauled Kimberlite today to fix some water intrusion in the C-Drive.

After reading what you had done and some of Olivier’s explanation as to what was hiding under that black silicone button on the foot of the C-drive.
I cur away the silicone and found the bolt in question. I was amazed to find that it was loose enough that I could turn it with my fingers. I tightened it with a 30 mm socket that I use for the prop puller.

I was wondering if it can be removed and put a thread sealant on it, Also, in the past when I used a lot of silicone to close something up , It took many days to harden. Is there something special that you used to seal the bolt?

 

When taking the spurs line cutter off the shaft I also noted that one of the two small cap screws was missing along with a piece of the spurs unit.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thank you Kent !!! Loose bolt in C-drive and broken spurrs

karkauai
 

Hi Eric,
There wasn't anything sealing the top of the bolt on Kristy.  It was exposed and looked to be in fine shape.  Makes me wonder if the CDrive had been removed before I bought her.  I put some waterproof grease (lanocote) on the threads before bolting it back down.  Since I'm on the hard again, I'll be interested to hear what Olivier says about sealing it.  

Are you able to wiggle the lower drive side to side at all?  If so you may need new rubber bushings that go between the stainless sleeve and the "foot".  There are two pieces of rubber hose (one big enough to fit snugly over the other) that go into the hole in the foot.  The steel sleeve goes inside the smaller hose, and the bolt goes through the sleeve.

Kent
SM 243
Kristy


On Jul 11, 2015, at 7:25 PM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi,

I hauled Kimberlite today to fix some water intrusion in the C-Drive.

After reading what you had done and some of Olivier’s explanation as to what was hiding under that black silicone button on the foot of the C-drive.
I cur away the silicone and found the bolt in question. I was amazed to find that it was loose enough that I could turn it with my fingers. I tightened it with a 30 mm socket that I use for the prop puller.

I was wondering if it can be removed and put a thread sealant on it, Also, in the past when I used a lot of silicone to close something up , It took many days to harden. Is there something special that you used to seal the bolt?

 

When taking the spurs line cutter off the shaft I also noted that one of the two small cap screws was missing along with a piece of the spurs unit.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

 


Thank you Kent !!! Loose bolt in C-drive and broken spurrs

eric freedman
 

Hi,

I hauled Kimberlite today to fix some water intrusion in the C-Drive.

After reading what you had done and some of Olivier’s explanation as to what was hiding under that black silicone button on the foot of the C-drive.
I cur away the silicone and found the bolt in question. I was amazed to find that it was loose enough that I could turn it with my fingers. I tightened it with a 30 mm socket that I use for the prop puller.

I was wondering if it can be removed and put a thread sealant on it, Also, in the past when I used a lot of silicone to close something up , It took many days to harden. Is there something special that you used to seal the bolt?

 

When taking the spurs line cutter off the shaft I also noted that one of the two small cap screws was missing along with a piece of the spurs unit.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Water maker

Peter Killen
 

Hi All
The answer to my problem turned out to be the high pressure switch which had defaulted. We can operate the system on 24v for the present until I can get a replacement part. 
Kind regards 
Peter
S/M 433 Pure Magic


On 10 Jul 2015, at 10:07, yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Keith,


For some reason my reply to you was broken in half by something.

I will try again.

Keith,

Maybe I misunderstood your earlier email where you said, "...water is pumped through the system and out through the hull..." The pressure valve is designed to increase pressure to the outside of the membranes by restricting the outflow...thus increasing pressure. It is actually very simple. 

I would not run the water maker until you find the source of the problem which could be:
  1. Source of saltwater is restricted by a closed valve, clogged prefilter(s), clogged line, supply pump (sometimes referred to as low pressure pump), not working or clogged. 
  2. Failure of the HP pump, which could be failed ceramic pistons, cracked head, or loose head (I had this "loose head" thing happen to me...bolts loosened and no pressure...tightened them up and all was good).
  3. Failure of the connection between the motor and the HP pump
  4. Dump valve stuck open (if you have this...I think newer systems do).
  5. Pressure adjustment valve not working correctly...i.e. not actually closing to increase pressure.
Some of your other questions:
Yes, a carbon filter will remove chlorine. I have seen many water maker installations with a carbon filter in-line with the flush line. I do not know why this is not standard on the Dessalator systems. The Dessalator Manual says: "Please note that the drinking water produced by your reverse osmosis system is essentially sterile, however, your fresh water storage should be treated periodically with chlorine or iodine to ensure it remains consumable. Pay attention not to allow chlorine into the desalination system, as this could damage the device."
I am not sure how Dessalator assumes that we "not to allow chlorine into the desalination system without a carbon filter to block the chlorine.

Regarding fresh water being a problem for membranes, I disagree and don't think so...the manual states:
 The membranes should be permanently immersed in liquid, either sea water before treatment, fresh water provisionally stored or sterilizing liquid, if the desalinator is not used for extended periods of time (Sterilizer is effective for six months and must be replaced after this period of time).

I believe the two biggest enemies of the Dessalator system are:
  • Chlorine
  • Dried membranes
  • Sterilizing or Cleaning chemicals (same chemical, but Dessalator uses both terms)
  • Overdosing Sterilizing or Cleaning chemical. I think that if you absolutely have to do this, use 50% of the quantity of chemical and do not leave the chemical in the membrane tubes, but rather flush with tank water for 15 minutes. The chemical is caustic!
Flushing regularly and after each use, or a minimum of once a week---for 6 minutes, with tank water, and using a carbon filter to block any chlorine is the best thing you can do.

All that said, I am no expert. My knowledge has been gained through years of sometimes costly experience.

Bill
BeBe 387


Re: Generator/Shorepower Transfer Switch

svperegrinus@yahoo.com
 

Thank you Olivier for the recommendation to have the solenoid on the transfer switch checked.  We'll do this on Monday.

Having said that, on advice from an experienced friend, we try and avoid using the transfer switch as much as possible; i.e., if for some reason the generator must be powered while plugged into shore power, we usually go and turn the shore power breaker off in advance.

Peregrinus


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Water maker

Alan Leslie
 

Duane / Bill

This is what Dow say about Filmtec membranes and chlorine...

The membrane shows some resistance to short-term attack by chlorine (hypochlorite). The free chlorine tolerance of the membrane is < 0.1 ppm. Continuous exposure, however, may damage the membrane and should be avoided. Under certain conditions, the presence of free chlorine and other oxidizing agents will cause premature membrane failure. Since oxidation damage is not covered under warranty, FilmTec recommends removing residual free chlorine by pretreatment prior to membrane exposure. Please refer to Chlorination / Dechlorination (Section 2.6.3) for more information. 


I'm with you Bill....NO CHLORINE

Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Water maker

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Duane,

You're an engineer. What does that quoted instruction tell you?

It tells me nothing. What is the definition of "pay attention" and "too high?"  Also membranes for saltwater are different than RO membranes for your home. The saltwater membranes are constructed differently and their model numbers have a prefix of SW.

There is certainly lots of anecdotal data out here to suggest that chlorine is harmful to SW membranes, and there are lots of experienced sailors who claim that it is.

Possibly this needs to be researched because Filmtec completely changed its manufacturing process to a complete robotic assembly about 10 years ago. Prices went down and water quality went up. Possibly, they also did something about purported Chlorine vulnerability. Since there is only one manufacturer of membranes, it is probably easy to research this. Frankly, I am sticking with my anti-chlorine prejudices.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+39 333 121 8115 Italy Mobile
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On Jul 11, 2015 4:13 AM, "sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

In regard to chlorine, my Owners Manual seems to allow the chlorine level in potable water: "   Payattention not to allow pure chlorine (or a too high dose of chlorine) in the the desalination system, as this could damage the device."


The filters are sold for home systems to reduce the TDS and they would be subject to the chlorine in typical potable water systems.

Duane
Wanderer, #477


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Water maker

Alan Leslie
 

Chlorine kills RO membranes...period.
NEVER allow water containing chlorine in the watermaker....good idea to have an activated carbon filter before the membranes in the case that you may have put chlorinated water in your tank. The carbon filter will remove chlorine from the water.....I have 5micron carbon impregnated filters that work well.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Water maker

Ann-Sofie Svanberg <kanalmamman@...>
 

The filters will probably manage the chlorine, but the membranes doesn't. It is enough to flush the system with land water containing chlorine to destroy them.

/Annsofie
S/Y Lady Annila, Sm #232
Present at Algarve, Portugal

Skickat från min iPad

11 jul 2015 kl. 03:13 skrev sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

In regard to chlorine, my Owners Manual seems to allow the chlorine level in potable water: " Payattention not to allow pure chlorine (or a too high dose of chlorine) in the the desalination system, as this could damage the device."


The filters are sold for home systems to reduce the TDS and they would be subject to the chlorine in typical potable water systems.

Duane
Wanderer, #477
  
  


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Water maker

Duane Siegfri
 

In regard to chlorine, my Owners Manual seems to allow the chlorine level in potable water: " Payattention not to allow pure chlorine (or a too high dose of chlorine) in the the desalination system, as this could damage the device."

The filters are sold for home systems to reduce the TDS and they would be subject to the chlorine in typical potable water systems.

Duane
Wanderer, #477