Date   

Re: A55 , # 9

Billy Newport
 

I have #56. I have agms. There is 1 shunt. The boxes are not ventilated as far as I can see. They are not watertight as the wires exit through a hole leading under the nav table which is not sealed.

I replaced the original batteries in June. My boat is Sept 2016.

Billy


Re: 3 topics Smart Regulator Hydronic diesel heater

JEFFREY KRAUS
 

Courtney,
I haven't tried to post any pictures onto the Amel site. I'll try to figure out how to do it, and take some pictures of the components, and the put the pictures up.
It's a pretty simple set up.
Jeff
Spirit 
Amel 54 #14
Shinnecock, NY


Re: Heater and fuel bladder

JEFFREY KRAUS
 

Eric,
I'm not sure what you mean about a forced air system.
It was cold north of the gulf stream. I had a small propane heater for the trip. It worked but it was a temporary solution. 
That bladder looks like the same one I have. I got it from Roberto.
Best Regards,
Jeff 
Spirit Amel 54 #14 
Shinnecock, NY


Re: A54 bilge pump problems...

Chris Likins
 

Thank you for everyones input. I followed the same repair that Thomas made and it works like a charm! Actually its pumping faster and better than it ever has since we owned the boat. 

 

This is a great forum and source of information. Thanks again!


Re: Rudder Stuffing Box Packing Material

Paul Stascavage
 

Thanks you too all who contributed to assisting me with this project.

Just a few notes here to possibly help others dealing with this project in the future.

To clean the rudder post of rust and salt deposits, I took a 2 inch piece of schedule 40 PVC and using contact cement, I glued a small piece of fine sandpaper to the inside of the pipe.  This did a great job cleaning up the post and allowed me to work on the post without touching the gland threads.  I did this before removing the old packing so as to prevent most of the dust from getting into the gland.

As a side note, I use a similar procedure when cleaning the salt deposits out of the c-drive cavity before installing new seals except I zip tie the sandpaper to the outside surface of the PVC pipe.

After pulling out the old packing, I found some of the threads of the gland brittle and damaged with some remnants of some threads at the bottom of the gland.  I am fairly certain that the damage occurred merely from the friction of the packing material rubbing against the threads as it was removed.  I was quite careful with the screws and the Palmetto 1101 Packing Extractor to make sure I was not near the threads.  One of fiberglass guys in the yard used thickened west system epoxy, west 403, 404, and cab-o-sil to beef up threads.  He waxed the packing nut and installed it as a mold.  We let it cure for 4 days.  It worked great.

To cut the new packing material, I started with a short piece of 2 inch schedule 80 PVC.  I had a machine shop mill about 3 inches of the end of the pipe down to 50 mm diameter (the same as the rudder post) and used this to size and cut the packing material that is supplied by AMEL but is no longer cut to size.  It was easier than trying to do it on the post itself.

The new packing material went in easy with grease.  I tapped each piece down with a 1/4 in wooden dowel and then with the 2 inch piece of schedule 40 PVC pipe.

We launched yesterday and so far no leaks.  We will see what happens when we set sail in a couple weeks.

Again, a big thank you to all for their input.  The knowledge of the members of this forum and their willingness to share such is truly awesome.

All the best,

Paul Stascavage
SM #466 - s/v Rita Kathryn
Severn Yachting Center - Hayes, VA


www.RitaKathryn.com


Re: A55 , # 9

Justin Maguire
 

Woah - that’s crazy. Somethings definitely not right and Amel wiring it up in a way that voided the warrenty seems also crazy... if you’re the original owner that definitely feels like a conversation to have with them.  


On Dec 5, 2020, at 18:19, Stuart Hemingway <stuart@...> wrote:



Atten. Of Joerg Esdorn,

 

Joerg,

 

I know that your boat is one of the later production versions and I’d like to ask if you have details of the battery arrangement on your boat.

 

Do you have AGM’s and are the battery boxes ventilated either mechanically or by natural ventilation ,ours are not.

 

Also do you have a wiring plan for the shunts and the batteries and do you have one or two shunts , we have two.

 

The boat has gone through 40 # AGM ,160 v batteries from the launch of the boat in 2012.

 

Mastervolt tell me that their guarantee is void because the batteries should have been Gel and because the Amel wire up to the batteries does not follow the Mastervolt recommendation.

 

If you can help in any way with information that would be really appreciated.

 

 

Regards,

 

 

Stuart


A55 , # 9

Stuart Hemingway
 

Atten. Of Joerg Esdorn,

 

Joerg,

 

I know that your boat is one of the later production versions and I’d like to ask if you have details of the battery arrangement on your boat.

 

Do you have AGM’s and are the battery boxes ventilated either mechanically or by natural ventilation ,ours are not.

 

Also do you have a wiring plan for the shunts and the batteries and do you have one or two shunts , we have two.

 

The boat has gone through 40 # AGM ,160 v batteries from the launch of the boat in 2012.

 

Mastervolt tell me that their guarantee is void because the batteries should have been Gel and because the Amel wire up to the batteries does not follow the Mastervolt recommendation.

 

If you can help in any way with information that would be really appreciated.

 

 

Regards,

 

 

Stuart


Heater and fuel bladder

eric freedman
 

Hi Jeff,

Do you have the forced air system on Spirit?

It sue was cold North of the stream this year wasn’t it?

 

If you recall we use the commercial Nauta fuel tank with the fittings installed. The cheaper 50+ gallon one is porous.

We originally filled the tank using the galley garbage can and a Jabsco vane puppy pump.

It is quite simple ,and uses one hose with absolutely no mess. We fill the tank from a full garbage can using the pump until we have exactly 50 gallons of fuel in the bladder. While filling we “burp” the tank by reversing the pump electrically and rock the tank to remove the air bubbles in the tank. The hose has a locking ball valve which we put a cable tie through (McMaster Carr) when the tank is full . We then wrap the valve in foam rubber. We then tighten the tie downs very tight. The tank stays in place and does not move an inch. The secret is not to empty the tank until you need all the fuel.

We then just hook a hose on to the valve and open it . It will drain all by itself into the fuel fill. We then lift up the tank upside down to get the last few drops out of the tank.

 

I had an epiphany last year. Being that I have permanent auxiliary fuel tanks in the port life raft locker. I just fill one and pump it directly into the tank, no more garbage can.

I also had installed a fuel filter and pump  in line with the fuel fill via a “y” valve (thanks Ian and Judy) .

We filter the fuel before it goes into the tank.

With this filter we use a 2 micron filter as our primary filter in the Racor filter instead of the 10 micron and the filter is always very clean.

 

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of JEFFREY KRAUS
Sent: Saturday, December 05, 2020 7:35 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] 3 topics Smart Regulator Hydronic diesel heater

 

Good Morning Amelians,
I hope this message finds everyone well and happy throughout the globe.
I'm looking to install a smart external regulator. 
I'm looking into 2 currently.
a. wakespeed 500   Another Amel owner has installed this unit with good results, and I'm awaiting more information on it and it's installation.
b. ZM5  I recently got a return email from the company (located in New Zealand). Information pending.
Has anyone had any experience with the ZM?

I'm looking to install a diesel heater aboard.
I'm giving serious consideration to a hydronic system. One aspect of a hydronic system is that it can heat the boat without the heater operating while the engine is running, with the engine coolant circulating and providing the heat to the fan units, If anyone has used a bus heater, that's how it works. Without the engine on, the diesel heater warms the coolant in the lines. The engine, heater, AND the hot water system are in series, so one has the luxury of heating your hot water while the diesel heater is running also.
The particular system I'm focusing on is a Webasto 2010s.
It can have up to 4 fan/zones. I would install 1 in the main cabin, 1 in forward cabin, 1 in masters cabin, and 1 at the helm. The luxury of a heated helm  (within the enclosure ) would be nice. These bus heaters produce heat at a very high rate.
Has anyone had any experience with this, or for that matter any hydronic system aboard their vessel?

I recently ran Spirit back from Puerto Rico to NY on a solo run of what turned out to be 1600nm.
Before leaving, I strapped a fuel bladder (50gal) on top of the stern cabin. I bought 2 pipes each with a shut off valve. 1 a fill (larger to accommodate the fuel nozzle), 1 an outflow with a fitting to attach a hose to run into the fuel tank. I used a clear hose so I could see the fuel flowing. Once I knew I had used up more than 50 gal of fuel, I ran the hose into the tank, and while applying pressure to the bladder with my knee, opened the outflow valve, and the fuel siphoned into the tank, sucking all the fuel out of the bladder. It worked like a charm. I took off the pipes, and replaced the bladder caps, rolled the bladder up. and that was that. If anyone is interested in the bladder hookup and type, let me know.

Thanks in advance for any feedback on the 2 other issues.
Jeff Spirit Amel 54 #14
back in Shinnecock NY


Re: A54 bilge pump problems...

eric freedman
 

Hi,

The nylon gear and the shaft assembly is available from Amel. I got mine in 2 days.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Chris Likins
Sent: Saturday, December 05, 2020 3:15 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] A54 bilge pump problems...

 

Thomas,

I managed to get the whole clutch taken out finally. You can see the gap in the nylon gear. I do have an entire spare pump (although the motor shaft is snapped in half) so I am hoping to salvage the clutch off of that pump if it is still in good condition. The spare pump is currently in the shop and its a holiday weekend here in Thailand so I have to wait until Tuesday to find out... 

 

In the old thread you posted, you mentioned you epoxied the old nylon gear to repair it. Can you give a little bit more detail of exactly how you did that?

 

Thank you!

 


Re: A54 bilge pump problems...

Sv Garulfo
 

Chris,

The key point of the mcGiver repair is to nail the plastic ring to the aluminum wheel. Craig describes that nicely in his post. I then opted to fill the remaining gap in the ring with epoxy. Simply by closing the sides by pinning a couple of cardboard sheets with a clothing peg and letting a drop of epoxy in the gap. Let it cure, and with a dremel tool, cut a new groove to accommodate the regular spacing of the gears. Test it and file the groove until the motion is smooth. 


Thomas


On Fri, 4 Dec 2020 at 22:14, Chris Likins <likinsca@...> wrote:

Thomas,

I managed to get the whole clutch taken out finally. You can see the gap in the nylon gear. I do have an entire spare pump (although the motor shaft is snapped in half) so I am hoping to salvage the clutch off of that pump if it is still in good condition. The spare pump is currently in the shop and its a holiday weekend here in Thailand so I have to wait until Tuesday to find out... 

 

In the old thread you posted, you mentioned you epoxied the old nylon gear to repair it. Can you give a little bit more detail of exactly how you did that?

 

Thank you!

 


Re: A54 bilge pump problems...

 

Chris,

You originally said, "pumping seemed normal. A few days later I noticed the pump was running for a very long time. After activation from the float switch, it began to pump, however, once the water in the sump began to decrease, so did its pumping ability, so much so that it was unable to pump out the last bit of water to turn the switch off."

I addressed non-mechanical issues because I believed that you were clearly stating that your pump was working mechanically. Apparently, you have a combination of mechanical issues. The mechanical parts, such as the nylon gear, are available from TF Marine (info@...). I believe 100% of the parts used in previous versions of this pump made by A.M.F.A. and others as the model number "Marina ZZ" are directly replaceable by parts from TF Marine.

Mohammad is correct about the one-way valve in the foot of the pick-up. With it working correctly, the pump primes itself quicker, but if the pump is working correctly this one-way valve is not critical to the pump being able to lift water from the sump.

SAV @ Amel.fr has had the nylon gear in stock from time-to-time.

Here is a drawing, but unfortunately, it does not show the Delrin (looks like nylon) gear as a separate part:
image.png

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sat, Dec 5, 2020 at 2:14 AM Chris Likins <likinsca@...> wrote:

Thomas,

I managed to get the whole clutch taken out finally. You can see the gap in the nylon gear. I do have an entire spare pump (although the motor shaft is snapped in half) so I am hoping to salvage the clutch off of that pump if it is still in good condition. The spare pump is currently in the shop and its a holiday weekend here in Thailand so I have to wait until Tuesday to find out... 

 

In the old thread you posted, you mentioned you epoxied the old nylon gear to repair it. Can you give a little bit more detail of exactly how you did that?

 

Thank you!

 


Re: 3 topics Smart Regulator Hydronic diesel heater

Courtney Gorman
 

Hi Jeff I would love to see your bladder setup.  Cheers 🍻 
Courtney 
Trippin
54#101
Brunswick 


On Dec 5, 2020, at 7:35 AM, JEFFREY KRAUS <jmkraus@...> wrote:

Good Morning Amelians,
I hope this message finds everyone well and happy throughout the globe.
I'm looking to install a smart external regulator. 
I'm looking into 2 currently.
a. wakespeed 500   Another Amel owner has installed this unit with good results, and I'm awaiting more information on it and it's installation.
b. ZM5  I recently got a return email from the company (located in New Zealand). Information pending.
Has anyone had any experience with the ZM?

I'm looking to install a diesel heater aboard.
I'm giving serious consideration to a hydronic system. One aspect of a hydronic system is that it can heat the boat without the heater operating while the engine is running, with the engine coolant circulating and providing the heat to the fan units, If anyone has used a bus heater, that's how it works. Without the engine on, the diesel heater warms the coolant in the lines. The engine, heater, AND the hot water system are in series, so one has the luxury of heating your hot water while the diesel heater is running also.
The particular system I'm focusing on is a Webasto 2010s.
It can have up to 4 fan/zones. I would install 1 in the main cabin, 1 in forward cabin, 1 in masters cabin, and 1 at the helm. The luxury of a heated helm  (within the enclosure ) would be nice. These bus heaters produce heat at a very high rate.
Has anyone had any experience with this, or for that matter any hydronic system aboard their vessel?

I recently ran Spirit back from Puerto Rico to NY on a solo run of what turned out to be 1600nm.
Before leaving, I strapped a fuel bladder (50gal) on top of the stern cabin. I bought 2 pipes each with a shut off valve. 1 a fill (larger to accommodate the fuel nozzle), 1 an outflow with a fitting to attach a hose to run into the fuel tank. I used a clear hose so I could see the fuel flowing. Once I knew I had used up more than 50 gal of fuel, I ran the hose into the tank, and while applying pressure to the bladder with my knee, opened the outflow valve, and the fuel siphoned into the tank, sucking all the fuel out of the bladder. It worked like a charm. I took off the pipes, and replaced the bladder caps, rolled the bladder up. and that was that. If anyone is interested in the bladder hookup and type, let me know.

Thanks in advance for any feedback on the 2 other issues.
Jeff Spirit Amel 54 #14
back in Shinnecock NY


3 topics Smart Regulator Hydronic diesel heater

JEFFREY KRAUS
 

Good Morning Amelians,
I hope this message finds everyone well and happy throughout the globe.
I'm looking to install a smart external regulator. 
I'm looking into 2 currently.
a. wakespeed 500   Another Amel owner has installed this unit with good results, and I'm awaiting more information on it and it's installation.
b. ZM5  I recently got a return email from the company (located in New Zealand). Information pending.
Has anyone had any experience with the ZM?

I'm looking to install a diesel heater aboard.
I'm giving serious consideration to a hydronic system. One aspect of a hydronic system is that it can heat the boat without the heater operating while the engine is running, with the engine coolant circulating and providing the heat to the fan units, If anyone has used a bus heater, that's how it works. Without the engine on, the diesel heater warms the coolant in the lines. The engine, heater, AND the hot water system are in series, so one has the luxury of heating your hot water while the diesel heater is running also.
The particular system I'm focusing on is a Webasto 2010s.
It can have up to 4 fan/zones. I would install 1 in the main cabin, 1 in forward cabin, 1 in masters cabin, and 1 at the helm. The luxury of a heated helm  (within the enclosure ) would be nice. These bus heaters produce heat at a very high rate.
Has anyone had any experience with this, or for that matter any hydronic system aboard their vessel?

I recently ran Spirit back from Puerto Rico to NY on a solo run of what turned out to be 1600nm.
Before leaving, I strapped a fuel bladder (50gal) on top of the stern cabin. I bought 2 pipes each with a shut off valve. 1 a fill (larger to accommodate the fuel nozzle), 1 an outflow with a fitting to attach a hose to run into the fuel tank. I used a clear hose so I could see the fuel flowing. Once I knew I had used up more than 50 gal of fuel, I ran the hose into the tank, and while applying pressure to the bladder with my knee, opened the outflow valve, and the fuel siphoned into the tank, sucking all the fuel out of the bladder. It worked like a charm. I took off the pipes, and replaced the bladder caps, rolled the bladder up. and that was that. If anyone is interested in the bladder hookup and type, let me know.

Thanks in advance for any feedback on the 2 other issues.
Jeff Spirit Amel 54 #14
back in Shinnecock NY


Re: A54 bilge pump problems...

Chris Likins
 

Thomas,

I managed to get the whole clutch taken out finally. You can see the gap in the nylon gear. I do have an entire spare pump (although the motor shaft is snapped in half) so I am hoping to salvage the clutch off of that pump if it is still in good condition. The spare pump is currently in the shop and its a holiday weekend here in Thailand so I have to wait until Tuesday to find out... 

 

In the old thread you posted, you mentioned you epoxied the old nylon gear to repair it. Can you give a little bit more detail of exactly how you did that?

 

Thank you!

 


Re: A54 bilge pump problems...

Alan "Woody" Wood
 

We had a few problems with our Henderson Mk 5 bulge pump recently and the trouble shooting brought up the usual suspects like torn diaphragm and leaky valves but also leaky screw holes and a dislodged strumbox grill that allowed a twig and cable tie to enter the joker valve at the bottom of the bilge and hold it ‘open’. This video might help to pinpoint potential issues to investigate.
Bilge Pump Problems! Fixing our Whale / Henderson Mk5 Pump with Spares from the Service Kit.
https://youtu.be/Tbpj26sNX1A


Mizzen mast drawing

Alan Leslie
 

Hello fellow Amelians,

Does anyone have a dimensioned drawing of the cross section of the SM mizzen mast ?
I want to 3D print some spacers in order to mount a small box with an air horn and compressor on the mizzen mast under the radar scanner.

Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: A54 bilge pump problems...

Sv Garulfo
 


I guess you have a spare for the whole clutch (meaning the aluminum wheel and plastic gear ring). This assembly is held in the gearbox housing by a cir-clips. See picture attached.



Hope it helps

Thomas


On Fri, 4 Dec 2020 at 18:16, Chris Likins <likinsca@...> wrote:

After a little more research on this forum it appears the break in the nylon gear is not supposed to be there and probably causing slippage. 

 

Does anyone know the easiest way to remove the white nylon gear? I actually have a spare...


Re: A54 bilge pump problems...

Chris Likins
 

After a little more research on this forum it appears the break in the nylon gear is not supposed to be there and probably causing slippage. 

 

Does anyone know the easiest way to remove the white nylon gear? I actually have a spare...


Re: A54 bilge pump problems...

Chris Likins
 

Thomas,

 

I just took off the face of the gearbox to have a look at the clutch. It appears that there is one "break" in the white plastic gear. I noticed that you had two breaks in yours. Did you epoxy both or just one of them? I cant tell if the single break is meant to be there or not. 

 

Thanks!


Re: A54 bilge pump problems...

Chris Likins
 
Edited

Hi everyone, thank you for the information. 

 

I have sealed and coated everything (two halves, main cover, flapper valves, inlet and outlet hoses) with a generous amount silicone grease, the suction hose is brand new, two hose clamps are in place and yet I am still having the same problem. I took the lower hose off the boat and filled it with water. A small trickle of water was coming out of the joker valve at the bottom. Should this be happening?  

 

I have zero trouble priming the pump while covering the outlet on top of the pump with my hand. It seems to pump OK when the motor is cold, as it warms up it gets slower and slower until it is hardly able to pump out any water at all. The motor sounds like its gets weaker and weaker the longer it runs. Any clues what this might point to inside the motor? 

 

As always, thanks for the help!

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