Re: Starting Capacitor size for a 220v, 50Hz 2.5 kw water maker high pressure motor
Jose Venegas
Thank you BIll,
It looks almost identical but mine has a single capacitor with 54 micro F. Yours has 2 of 30 mF in parallel (60 mF). is the m for micro of mili? If it is micro, it is bad news for me because it would mean that my capacitor is OK and the motor is dead. If it is mil, then my capacitor needs to be replaced. Jose SM2K 278
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Re: Starting Capacitor size for a 220v, 50Hz 2.5 kw water maker high pressure motor
Jose, This probably is not what you are looking for, but....here you go. This is the 220 volt motor for the Dessalator 150/160 liter water maker, but maybe newer than you SM. If that is yours, this may help:
On Fri, May 22, 2020 at 1:42 PM Jose Venegas via groups.io <josegvenegas=icloud.com@groups.io> wrote: The water maker high-pressure pump motor is not starting and breaking the AC circuits of shore power and Onan Generator. It is a LeRoy motor. I have checked for a short circuit and seems OK. (1-ohm resistance between poles and 12.5 Khoms from pole to the earth) The starting motor capacitor specs are not visible. I measured 48 micro F, which seems small for the motor size. Does anybody know if that is the proper size? The motor makes a very short humming sound before the AC circuits jump. Before I remove the motor and proceed with major surgery, I would like to know if the capacitor is the proper one or has failed.
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Starting Capacitor size for a 220v, 50Hz 2.5 kw water maker high pressure motor
Jose Venegas
The water maker high-pressure pump motor is not starting and breaking the AC circuits of shore power and Onan Generator. It is a LeRoy motor. I have checked for a short circuit and seems OK. (1-ohm resistance between poles and 12.5 Khoms from pole to the earth) The starting motor capacitor specs are not visible. I measured 48 micro F, which seems small for the motor size. Does anybody know if that is the proper size? The motor makes a very short humming sound before the AC circuits jump. Before I remove the motor and proceed with major surgery, I would like to know if the capacitor is the proper one or has failed.
Thanks in advance Jose Venegas Ipanema SM2000 278 Currently grounded in Grenada awaiting for the opening of Colombian ports to proceed.
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Re: Onan ballbearing check and valves values
Gary Silver
Hi All:I inquired of Cummins (Onan) about the specifics of changing the generator bearing. The original person that helped me sent me copies of the updated (latest and greatest) parts and master service manuals for my 7MDKAL-431 genset (posted them in the files section with May 2020 in the title). He escalated my request for help to his superiors and they responded but indicated that the service should only be done my a "certified Onan" technician. After explaining to them that several of us (out of a group of owners having about 800 of their gen-sets) had attempted using a "Onan certified technician" and the technicians had never done it and didn't want to do it. I finally prevailed on Onan to give me the procedure after explaining that I am an FAA certified aircraft mechanic and know my way around wrenches. Here is the reply to my questions that I request be directed to a technician who had actually done the procedure:Question 1. Is the rotor able to be self supported when the end-bell is removed. Answer: "The rotor can support itself for a small amount of time. I would not leave it unsupported for more than 60 minutes, but it should be fine to remove the end bell" This is in line with what Craig said relative to a Northern Lights genset.Question 2. What is the degree of engineered interference fit for the bearing in the counter-bore and on the rotor shaft. In other words how much difficulty can I expect in removing the end-bell. The service manual says to “tap” it off. Is that realistic or can I expect a major struggle. Answer: "I personally used a 2 jaw puller or if the end bell has threaded holes a steering wheel puller to remove it. The other option is to use 2 pry bars at the outside edges and slowly work it off. It is a fairly tight fit or should be unless the bearing began to turn in the end bell housing Note: be sure to disconnect F1 and F2 as the exciter stator will come off with the end bell."
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Re: Insurance
David Vogel
Owners of SM#396, svPerigee, Australian registered, are interested in potential aspects of self-insurance within a group of AMEL owners.
Currently insured with: Pantaenius Australia, expiry Oct’20; FORM: comprehensive (all risks); Amount insured: ~AUD450k (~USD295k); Premium: ~AUD9k (~USD6k)
1.Owner: D&L Vogel 2. Hull Number: SM#396 3. Year boat built: 2003 4. How long owned by current owner: since Oct’16 5. Cruising experience *Years sailing: 20+, on and off. *Nautical Miles Sailed: ~10,000nm prior to ownership; since ownership ~16,000nm; *Cruising ground in past: Australia QLD; Med; UK; US East Coast; Caribbean; Central Americas; South Pacific *Future Sailing Plans: South Pacific, expect 3,000 to 5,000nm per annum 6. Last Out of Water Survey: Oct’16 7. Any Insurance Claims *Year: no marine or aviation claims (non-current commercial pilot); Automobile, 2010; *Circumstances: other car merged into me *Amount of claim: ~CHF10k *Amount recovered: unknown; I simply paid the insurance excess (deductible) 8. Are you interested in participating in a group insurance plan or a self-insured plan for members only? Potentially YES,
Understanding, based on quick read-though of the discussions: Concept: covered only against total constructive loss @ 10% deductable; named tropical storm (subject to date/geographic limitations, and other caveats to minimise exposure) @ [30]% deductible; or lightning damage @ [30]% deductable (higher deductibles to 60% or even 80% for those making claims in known high-risk areas, such as Florida – basically, self-insuring against such risk in those known high-risk areas). Annual premiums: [5] years buy-in “deposit” @ ~2.0% (~USD6k pa); thereafter annual top-up to cover annual losses due to claims plus annual contribution to cover operating/admin costs in order of 0.2% (USD600-pa). New members do the same. Co-insurance with underwriter to cover losses greater than [3] total-loss-claims in any given year. Notional buy-out is 50% of deposits paid, with an final adjustment paid after a further 5 years’ fund operation – that is, cash-value, not allowing for gains, such as interest received (and no refund of annual top-ups). Adjustment of annual premiums / calls etc conducted like a real-estate body corporate (administering shared common property) with a “sinking fund” (making provision for known future potential expenses/risks, only some of which may, or may not, come to be realised).
Proposal: Insured value is range-based on a value determined by AMEL owners’ cooperative – with provisions for / based on existing known (blue-book) depreciation schedules, with variation for various states of upgrades / maintenance etc. – that is, could not insure a well-maintained and operated year 2000 SM for, say, USD500k; only within a range of, say, USD[250]k to USD[275]k, diminishing at, say, [3-5]% in dollar terms for exceptionally well-maintained (all to better than OEM spec); [5-8]% for well-maintained (all to spec); [8-12]% for maintained ‘mostly to spec’; [>12]% for maintained less than spec … or whatever – has to be simple to do (for an owner to both do and to prove), and to externally assess.
Concept expansion: built assets to cover worst reasonably foreseeable losses for [5] years running; say, [5] hulls per year, for [5] years, = 25 hulls at weighted-average of USD350k @ 90% payout figure =~USD8.0m to fund the insurance fund. Basically, need to rapidly build to 250 hulls, each contributing 2% for 5 years, with no losses in the first 5 years (or with underwriting to cover any losses in the first 5 years). Consider that.
From: <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of "karkauai via groups.io" <karkauai@...>
Hi All,
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Re: A54 mainsail manual furler gearbox maintenance
Is a seal there in the box is filled with Grease it’s probably time for you to dismantle and repack it
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
On May 20, 2020, at 4:53 PM, Sv Garulfo <svgarulfo@...> wrote:
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Re: Onan ballbearing check and valves values
Hi Oliver,
Yes, that does seem to be a strange statement in the manual to "inspect every 2000h or 5 years". I am at a loss to know what or how you would inspect it, unless perhaps, it was visibly corroded or something like that. Sorry but I don't know the spec/size for the bearing on your Onan genset. Cheers, Craig
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Re: Victron Quattro charger/inverter installation
Mohammad Shirloo
Thank you Thomas. I’ll review and am sure will have some questions.
Happy Sailing;
Mohammad and Aty B&B Kokomo AMEL 54 #099
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
On Behalf Of Sv Garulfo via groups.io
Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2020 4:17 PM To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Victron Quattro charger/inverter installation
Mohammad, Arno,
In the message
I described the implementation of the MasterVolt MassCombi Pro 24V/3500W/100A on Garulfo (amongst other things)
Hope it helps,
Mohammad, Note that we have a dessalator duo100 (24V and 220V), so we can run it directly on the batteries. The overall unit is about 900W, so we could also use the 220V side through the inverter, say if the 24V side was faulty and didn’t want to run the genset. If your watermater 150L/h is 220V only and uses 3kW, you’ll need to take that into consideration for your inverter choice.
Best,
Thomas GARULFO A54-122 Tahuata, French Polynesia
On Wed, 20 May 2020 at 13:14, Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:
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Re: Victron Quattro charger/inverter installation
Sv Garulfo
Mohammad, Arno, In the message I described the implementation of the MasterVolt MassCombi Pro 24V/3500W/100A on Garulfo (amongst other things) Hope it helps, Mohammad, Note that we have a dessalator duo100 (24V and 220V), so we can run it directly on the batteries. The overall unit is about 900W, so we could also use the 220V side through the inverter, say if the 24V side was faulty and didn’t want to run the genset. If your watermater 150L/h is 220V only and uses 3kW, you’ll need to take that into consideration for your inverter choice. Best, Thomas GARULFO A54-122 Tahuata, French Polynesia
On Wed, 20 May 2020 at 13:14, Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote: Hi Scott,
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Re: Victron Quattro charger/inverter installation
Hi Scott,
On my A54 the cables for the chargers (Mastervolt 100 A and 40 A) are routed individually to the batteries. They are actually connected on the primary side of the big red switches (so connected to the battery side). Pretty sure they did this to make sure the charger "knows" the exact battery voltage and to enable charging with the red switches off (when the boat is decommissioned for example) . The junction in the engine room is only supplying the gray fuse box as far as I can see. This is also where the inverter gets it power from (via a circuit breaker). I did not investigate where this 95mm2 feed cable is exactly going to. That is not so easy, hence my question on this forum. At the back of the red switches there is a plethora of cables going in all directions, the markings are not easy to read. There are also two studs distributing the power as well. Regards, Arno Luijten SV Luna, A54-121
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Re: Drawings and/or Schematic of Sharki fuel tank
Marco Baldan
Hello Graham,
I am in the looking to purchase a Sharki. Any useful information would be most welcome. Marco Baldan Albin Vega 3339 - Spray
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A54 mainsail manual furler gearbox maintenance
Sv Garulfo
Hi all, Can anyone advise on the maintenance required for the manual furler box for the mainsail on the A54? Ours shows signs of corrosion around the winch handle socket. Another confinement project starts! Cheers Thomas GARULFO A54-122 Tahuata, French Polynesia
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Re: Victron Quattro charger/inverter installation
Scott SV Tengah
Hmm, are you suggesting that the 95mm2 cables go from that engine room junction to the batteries directly? Take a look behind your battery main switches and see if there's a pair of 95mm2 cables running towards the engine room.
I recall when replacing my Dolphin 100a and 30a, there were separate wires behind the main switches, by the batteries, that were labelled 100a and 30a. That implies that the wires for each charger went directly to the batteries vs. through that "junction" in the engine room. Note we re-used the 100a cables for our Skylla-i 80a. And as noted, we installed two pairs of 50mm2 for the new Quattro 5kw/120a. The wire sizing was for the inverter portion (5000/26.3 = 190+ amps). -- Scott 2007 A54 #69 SV Tengah http://www.svtengah.com
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Re: Victron Quattro charger/inverter installation
Scott SV Tengah
Mohammad, happy to help.
Might I suggest asking the question on the forum, so that others may also learn from my experiences and not make the same mistakes I did. -- Scott 2007 A54 #69 SV Tengah http://www.svtengah.com
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Re: Victron Quattro charger/inverter installation
Scott SV Tengah
Arno,
Sorry, I should have been more clear. By boiler, I mean electric kettle. When the admiral is in the galley, appliances come on concurrently a lot. Secondly, for my Victron Quattro 5kw, the measured idle draw when the inverter is on is 40watts. That's 40Ah per day. Victron says 25w idle draw with inverter on, but my guess is that some of the AC items plugged into the AC sockets are drawing a decent amount, even when "idle". The 4w you mentioned is for the Mastervolt Ultra with the inverter OFF. Note that the Quattro, with inverter OFF( via a $5 switch), draws zero watts. -- Scott 2007 A54 #69 SV Tengah http://www.svtengah.com
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Re: Victron Quattro charger/inverter installation
Mohammad Shirloo
Thanks Scott for the very useful information that has functioned well for 18 months. If you don’t mind, I may reach out to you when we get closer to our final design concept and pick you brains and integrate your experience into our design.
Happy Sailing;
Mohammad and Aty B&B Kokomo AMEL 54 #099
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
On Behalf Of Scott SV Tengah via groups.io
Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2020 12:29 PM To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Victron Quattro charger/inverter installation
Hey everyone,
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Re: Victron Quattro charger/inverter installation
Hi Scott,
I'm not sure what boiler/water heater you have but our standard Isotemp is only 750Watt. Also 4 Watt per day equals to 4 Ah @ 24 volt not 40 Ah. Still a significant draw though although I'm not sure if this includes the powering of the Masterbus itself. Regards, Arno Luijten SV Luna, A54-121
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Re: Onan ballbearing check and valves values
Oliver Henrichsen, SV Vela Nautica
Hello Craig, Thanks for your explanation. I would also rather tend to change the ball bearing, just wondered because my manual says: inspect every 2000h or 5 years, left me wondering how.? Anyway I will prepare to change the ball bearing. My Genset is ONAN MDKBM, The ballbearing part no is: 510-0112 Does anybody know the specification / size of this bearing? Oliver from Vela Nautica Amel54#39 Martinique
On Mon, May 18, 2020, 23:29 Craig & Katherine Briggs SN 68 Sangaris Tropic Isle Harbor, FL via groups.io <sangaris=aol.com@groups.io> wrote: Hi Gary and Oliver,
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Re: Victron Quattro charger/inverter installation
Hi Mohammad,
Be aware the battery chargers are connected to the "other side" of the main battery switches relative to the inverter. So before you start putting these cables in parallel you will need to change that (if not already). I'm not sure why Amel did this, but my guess is that you can keep a battery charger running even if all other things are disconnected. This is why I was asking about the power-connection point in the engine room. It seems to be connected to the secondary side of the battery-switch with 95mm2 cables, more then enough to run a 4kW inverter instead of the 2kW version. I don't like changing too much the original config of the boat as it very often comes back and bites you, especially in a complex boat like the 54. So replacing the inverter seems to be limited to the inverter itself, the cable to the inverter, the circuit breaker in the gray cabinet needs to go up from 120A to 200A. and maybe the 230 V output cable needs to be bigger (2.5 mm2), I'm not sure. And of course some changes are required to the 230 switch panel to energize the washer etc. when running off the inverter. But It allows you to retain the original config for the most part. Regards, Arno Luijten SV Luna, A54-121
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Re: Victron Quattro charger/inverter installation
Scott SV Tengah
Hey everyone,
We've lived 18 months in mostly tropical conditions with the Quattro 5kw. I have some thoughts on this. 1) You can mount the Quattro 5kw in the engine room, VERTICALLY as Victron intended. We had to mount the secondary Skylla-i 80amp charger horizontally, but that's fine as it will never run for more than 2 hours at a time, even if my 450ah lithium bank is completely empty (which it has never been). Both are placed right where Amel put my original Dolphin 100a and 30a chargers, making installation easy. See installation photo on my earlier post at https://amelyachtowners.groups.io/g/main/message/47890 I have obsessively monitored charging and inverter output via the VE-Config software and the BMV-712 battery monitor because of heat concerns and possible power tapering. In my 18 months of mostly tropical live board living, that has never happened. Inverter output has never been tapered, even when motoring and running a big inverter load. Charger output has also never been tapered on either the Quattro or the Skylla, even when both are running off genset. Lior - that said, you will need to break out the seal between the passageway and the engine room to install new cables. Don't skimp on this. This is not difficult and resealing it is not difficult either. FYI installing the Quattro 3kw will still require that you use 2 PAIRS of 50mm2 cables, per Victron. 2) We opted for 5kw because the admiral and crew don't always monitor their concurrent usage. If they're running the boiler (2kw), the washing machine is in heat mode (1.5kw) and someone turns on the microwave (1kw), we are quite happy to have the Quattro 5kw. This isn't often, but it has happened before. Also the surge capacity of the Quattro 5kw allows us to use the scuba compressor on inverter/battery. 3) We looked at the Mastervolt Ultra. It draws 4w when the inverter is off. It draws 7w when the "low power mode" is selected. The MV low power mode is the same functionality as the "search mode" on the Victron, with the same no-load draw. What it does is pulse the inverter on every few seconds to search for a load. I opted not to do this because it causes my analog voltage meter (in the cabinet above the galley sink) to jump back and forth. Perhaps this is fine, but I didn't want the additional mechanical wear and the clicking sound is a bit annoying. And it won't turn sense low draw loads like small AC chargers or possibly laptops. Instead, I installed a simple $5 switch on the electrical panel which allowed me to turn on/off the inverter remotely. We turn it on when we need the big inverter and turn it off most of the time. When "off", the power consumption is zero, which is less than the Mastervolt. That saves me 40AH a day, which is the equivalent of the daily output of a 200w solar panel! https://amelyachtowners.groups.io/g/main/message/50689 We have the Amel installed 800w Mastervolt inverter at the nav station. We use that when we're running laptops, ice maker, bread maker, projector, cordless drill AC chargers, etc. Because of its low capacity, it's far more efficient at low power draws. We also changed some jumpers to activate "Economic Mode" so it draws even less when power draw is <250w. Hope this helps. -- Scott 2007 A54 #69 SV Tengah http://www.svtengah.com
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