Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Outhaul gearbox rebuild

karkauai
 

Now that makes a lot of sense to me, Alan.  I'll be interested to hear if yours drips hypoid oil all over the deck before it's time to service them again.

Kent
SM243
Kristy



From: "divanz620@... [amelyachtowners]"
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Monday, December 22, 2014 2:44 AM
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Outhaul gearbox rebuild

 
I did this, but shortly after our outhaul gearbox died...not because of the grease nipple I'm sure but because of age and lack of grease because of leaking seals.
If you do do it, I would put the hole for the grease nipple on the low side of the worm gear..ie port side, and the vent hole on the high starbd side, at least then you'd be fairly sure that you had some grease in the gears.
There's no problem using a Zerck nipple just have a 5mm tapped hole and put the nipple in when you need to use it and replace it with a nylon bolt....same on the vent side.
An engineer of some experience said to me that grease is really the wrong kind of lubricant for this application. It tends to get thrown off the gears and ends up in the extremities of the gear case. You might be better off taking off the top of the gearbox, filling it with SAE90 Hypoid gear oil and putting the top back on. At least then you would be sure to have lubricant between the gears at all times.

I just bought a new Leroy Somer box for my outhaul via a contact on this forum and interestingly on the build plate it says "lubricated for life" ...but it doesn't say lubricated with what.

I think in the future I will open up the box every couple of years, clean it, inspect it and fill it with oil !

Good luck !

Cheers
Alan
SV Elyse SM437







Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Outhaul gearbox rebuild

karkauai
 

I share your concerns, Mike.  And the amount of grease that it takes to fill the genoa fuler is huge.  About 5 years ago after owning Kristy for 2 years (she was 12 years old at that point), the outhaul gearbox started making an awful noise.  I am certain that it had never been serviced.  I had both main furler and outhaul removed and inspected.  They both had water in them and some of the gears were worn badly.  I purchased new gear boxes and motors and had the old ones refurbished for spares.  Since then I have removed them for inspection and cleaning every couple of years and have not found water in them.  I change the seals each time.  I know others have had a hard time taking them apart, but that hasn't been an issue for me so far.

A few months ago I took the genoa furler apart and found no water or evidence of wear.  It had also been serviced 5 years ago and was found free of water or wear after what I'm sure was 12 years without any care at all.

I am going to do as you suggest and take them apart every couple of years to clean, regrease, and reseal, rather than grease via tapping the gearboxes.  I could be convinced if others who have done this have taken theirs apart since modifying them and believe that it has prevented problems.  I do think that the seals are critical and should be replaced periodically to keep water out even if greased regularly.

I'm no engineer, but that's my take.
Kent
SM243 Kristy
Steady as she goes and Merry Christmas to all!




From: "sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners]"
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Sunday, December 21, 2014 11:06 PM
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Outhaul gearbox rebuild

 
I drilled and tapped each gearbox.  With a 5 mm tap. On one side the hole is low and the other side it is high. In these holes I use nylon bolts cut short.
I use the autoprop grease gun adapter to insert grease in the low hole and pump until I get clean crease coming out of the high hole. It takes 5 minutes.
I did not use a Zerk ( grease) fitting as I was concerned about corrosion.
 
 
It is amazing how much grease goes into the genoa furler.
Fair Winds
Eric
Kimberlite SM 376
 
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Sunday, December 21, 2014 10:01 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Outhaul gearbox rebuild
 
 
I am in the process of completely rebuilding the outhaul gearbox on Aletes and am wondering about how well the addition of a grease nipple has worked out for those who have tried it. A couple of engineering concerns come to mind.
 
1)      Should the nipple be low or high in the fitting?
2)      The lip seals are very close fitting. Can air escape to the point that grease flows throughout the housing? Especially to the bearing at the end of the worm drive?
3)      If a relief hole and plug are put in to allow air to escape, does that easy path preclude grease getting to all the other areas of the housing?
4)      If water gets in past the top lip seal, how does applying more grease through fitting push that water out?
5)      Would it be better to not install a relief plug and to loosen the screws on the endplates to allow air/water out until the grease gets there?
 
All these questions make me wonder if it is not better to simply take the gear box apart every couple of years rather than chance under greasing and not getting the water out. Will the grease nipple provide a false sense of security that all is well inside the gearbox when in actuality it is not?
 
[Water may not be so much of an issue with good lip seals. I think it has been 2 or 3 years since I last had the unit apart to grease and there was no water at all inside. The first time I took it apart after buying the boat used, there was water in the gearbox.]
 
Bye the way, all the seals and bearings are available in the US from Motion Industries with several hundred outlets around the US. They also offer the service of rebuilding gearboxes although I did not price this out.
 
Mike Ondra
s/v Aletes SM#240
  
 



New in this groop

eljaroellinghoff@...
 

Hello everyone, I sailing since ca. 10 years an Amel Euro 39. Now we want to increase us un look for a SM BJ around 1995 in the Mediterranean. Do you have information if someone wants to sell a SM?

Regards Elja


New in this groop

eljaroellinghoff@...
 

Hello everyone,
I am new in this group and we are sailing an Amel Euros 39
Since ca. 10 years . Now we want to increase us un look for a SM BJ around 1995 in the Mediterranean. Do you have information if someone wants to sell a SM?

Reguards
Elja


Re: Outhaul gearbox rebuild

Alan Leslie
 

I did this, but shortly after our outhaul gearbox died...not because of the grease nipple I'm sure but because of age and lack of grease because of leaking seals.
If you do do it, I would put the hole for the grease nipple on the low side of the worm gear..ie port side, and the vent hole on the high starbd side, at least then you'd be fairly sure that you had some grease in the gears.
There's no problem using a Zerck nipple just have a 5mm tapped hole and put the nipple in when you need to use it and replace it with a nylon bolt....same on the vent side.
An engineer of some experience said to me that grease is really the wrong kind of lubricant for this application. It tends to get thrown off the gears and ends up in the extremities of the gear case. You might be better off taking off the top of the gearbox, filling it with SAE90 Hypoid gear oil and putting the top back on. At least then you would be sure to have lubricant between the gears at all times.

I just bought a new Leroy Somer box for my outhaul via a contact on this forum and interestingly on the build plate it says "lubricated for life" ...but it doesn't say lubricated with what.

I think in the future I will open up the box every couple of years, clean it, inspect it and fill it with oil !

Good luck !

Cheers
Alan
SV Elyse SM437





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Outhaul gearbox rebuild

eric freedman
 

I drilled and tapped each gearbox.  With a 5 mm tap. On one side the hole is low and the other side it is high. In these holes I use nylon bolts cut short.

I use the autoprop grease gun adapter to insert grease in the low hole and pump until I get clean crease coming out of the high hole. It takes 5 minutes.

I did not use a Zerk ( grease) fitting as I was concerned about corrosion.

 

 

It is amazing how much grease goes into the genoa furler.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite SM 376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Sunday, December 21, 2014 10:01 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Outhaul gearbox rebuild

 

 

I am in the process of completely rebuilding the outhaul gearbox on Aletes and am wondering about how well the addition of a grease nipple has worked out for those who have tried it. A couple of engineering concerns come to mind.

 

1)      Should the nipple be low or high in the fitting?

2)      The lip seals are very close fitting. Can air escape to the point that grease flows throughout the housing? Especially to the bearing at the end of the worm drive?

3)      If a relief hole and plug are put in to allow air to escape, does that easy path preclude grease getting to all the other areas of the housing?

4)      If water gets in past the top lip seal, how does applying more grease through fitting push that water out?

5)      Would it be better to not install a relief plug and to loosen the screws on the endplates to allow air/water out until the grease gets there?

 

All these questions make me wonder if it is not better to simply take the gear box apart every couple of years rather than chance under greasing and not getting the water out. Will the grease nipple provide a false sense of security that all is well inside the gearbox when in actuality it is not?

 

[Water may not be so much of an issue with good lip seals. I think it has been 2 or 3 years since I last had the unit apart to grease and there was no water at all inside. The first time I took it apart after buying the boat used, there was water in the gearbox.]

 

Bye the way, all the seals and bearings are available in the US from Motion Industries with several hundred outlets around the US. They also offer the service of rebuilding gearboxes although I did not price this out.

 

Mike Ondra

s/v Aletes SM#240

  

 


Outhaul gearbox rebuild

Mike Ondra
 

I am in the process of completely rebuilding the outhaul gearbox on Aletes and am wondering about how well the addition of a grease nipple has worked out for those who have tried it. A couple of engineering concerns come to mind.

 

1)      Should the nipple be low or high in the fitting?

2)      The lip seals are very close fitting. Can air escape to the point that grease flows throughout the housing? Especially to the bearing at the end of the worm drive?

3)      If a relief hole and plug are put in to allow air to escape, does that easy path preclude grease getting to all the other areas of the housing?

4)      If water gets in past the top lip seal, how does applying more grease through fitting push that water out?

5)      Would it be better to not install a relief plug and to loosen the screws on the endplates to allow air/water out until the grease gets there?

 

All these questions make me wonder if it is not better to simply take the gear box apart every couple of years rather than chance under greasing and not getting the water out. Will the grease nipple provide a false sense of security that all is well inside the gearbox when in actuality it is not?

 

[Water may not be so much of an issue with good lip seals. I think it has been 2 or 3 years since I last had the unit apart to grease and there was no water at all inside. The first time I took it apart after buying the boat used, there was water in the gearbox.]

 

Bye the way, all the seals and bearings are available in the US from Motion Industries with several hundred outlets around the US. They also offer the service of rebuilding gearboxes although I did not price this out.

 

Mike Ondra

s/v Aletes SM#240

  

 


Re: Simrad RFC 35 Flux Gate Compass

yahoogroups@...
 


SIMRAD Robertson RFC35 Compass

 

There are several to choose from in addition to this one

Bill
BeBe 387


Simrad RFC 35 Flux Gate Compass

Roy Duddy <RDuddy@...>
 

Good day,

I need to replace my Simrad compass. Any ideas where I can find one? Thanks.

Roy

Sharki #123
Unwineding


Roy Duddy
Duddy Law Offices
One Liberty Lane East
Hampton, NH 03842
603-668-9000
800-675-0800 New England
603-472-7333 Fax
603-315-9600 Cell



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] impellor for volvo 110 on the 54

JEFFREY KRAUS
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Navigation in USA

karkauai
 

Ahoy Peregrinous!
I see you are near where my boat is on the hard in Fernandina Beach.  Will you be there long?
I'll be working on Kristy for a couple of weeks after Christmas.  I'll have my truck there if you need a ride.  My cousin lives nearby in Woodbine and works at the submarine base in St Marys.  He knows a lot of people in the area if you need anything.

If you will be around after Christmas I'd enjoy meeting you and having dinner or a beer/wine/rum.

Happy Holidays
Kent
SM243
Kristy
Tiger Point Marina
Fernandina Beach FL
Karkauai at yahoo dot com
(828)  234 6819


On Dec 19, 2014, at 2:51 PM, svperegrinus@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hello,


Non-U.S. citizens should not spend more than 179 days per calendar year in the U.S. in total
If you spend 180 days or more, the U.S. considers you a resident for tax purposes and the U.S. is the only country in the world, other than Venezuela, that taxes residents and citizens on their worldwide income.  This means that if you spend 180 days or more on any given calendar year, the U.S. expects you to "file" (declare) taxes on all income from all countries for that year.  Being considered a U.S. resident for tax purposes has no benefits of any type.  It just means that you pay taxes as if you were a U.S. person, even though you are not.

The amount of time and/or re-entries that a visitor gets is nearly arbitrary.   Across about 30 years of experience (personal, and colleagues and friends) I have seen people get:

a) Longer than the validity or overhang of the visa (this was error by the government employee and if the user had made use of it the adverse consequences would have been massive for the victim, not for the employee).  Seen this more than once

b) The full six months

c) Three months or less

d) The exact number of days that the person indicated was visiting for

Example:  you come for a meeting, three days, you get six months.  You leave on the fourth day.   You come back in a month, you get three months.  You leave after three days.  You come back in two months, you get six months.  Does it sound random?  It generally is.

If I were visiting in a boat, I would plan a visit six months or shorter.  

It is possible to apply for an extension of visit, which may be granted, but the migration employees are not the tax employees who will bite after 179 days per calendar year.

The above is related to "persons".  

Related to "boat", boats from about 25 countries can obtain a 1-year cruising license, renewable by the boat briefly leaving the U.S.  Our boat is now on its third cruising license (third year).  Countries not on the list cannot get a cruising license, and it becomes very difficult to do any type of coastal cruising in the U.S. without a cruising license.


sv Peregrinus
At anchor, St. Marys, Georgia


Re: Rudder packing

svperegrinus@yahoo.com
 

On SM2K #350, the rudder post started leaking.

We have had the packing and a spare big plastic screw on request from Amel for a while now; they indicated today they may send next week.

In the meantime, the leak got worse and worse, to the point the boat was not seaworthy, thus necessitating emergency repairs in Georgetown, South Carolina.  Lessons learned:

1) Our boat no longer had European mm-based packing.  Previous ownership/custodianship had removed the Euro-metric stuff and used U.S.-Imperial stuff.

2) Even in the best of cases, Imperial measurements never match metric.  For instance, 5/16" is not 8mm.  It is 7.94mm.

3) The stuff on our boat was 1/2" = 12.7mm.  The old packing was nearly impossible to remove.  There were two layers and after 2.5 hours, two burly technicians decided to only remove one layer.  The problem is that the 1/2" stuff catches onto the threads for the big screw.  The one layer removed came out in small parts (the biggest part was about one fourth of the total).  Not knowing what the correct size was, the technicians and I agreed that we would put back a new strip of the same as we removed, i.e., 1/2".

Our boat has a very, very minimal leak right now.  When Amel sends the correct spares, we will have the whole thing properly done.  I expect it will take 6 hours.


Peregrinus
At anchor, St Marys, Georgia



Re: Navigation in USA

svperegrinus@yahoo.com
 

Hello,

Non-U.S. citizens should not spend more than 179 days per calendar year in the U.S. in total
If you spend 180 days or more, the U.S. considers you a resident for tax purposes and the U.S. is the only country in the world, other than Venezuela, that taxes residents and citizens on their worldwide income.  This means that if you spend 180 days or more on any given calendar year, the U.S. expects you to "file" (declare) taxes on all income from all countries for that year.  Being considered a U.S. resident for tax purposes has no benefits of any type.  It just means that you pay taxes as if you were a U.S. person, even though you are not.

The amount of time and/or re-entries that a visitor gets is nearly arbitrary.   Across about 30 years of experience (personal, and colleagues and friends) I have seen people get:

a) Longer than the validity or overhang of the visa (this was error by the government employee and if the user had made use of it the adverse consequences would have been massive for the victim, not for the employee).  Seen this more than once

b) The full six months

c) Three months or less

d) The exact number of days that the person indicated was visiting for

Example:  you come for a meeting, three days, you get six months.  You leave on the fourth day.   You come back in a month, you get three months.  You leave after three days.  You come back in two months, you get six months.  Does it sound random?  It generally is.

If I were visiting in a boat, I would plan a visit six months or shorter.  

It is possible to apply for an extension of visit, which may be granted, but the migration employees are not the tax employees who will bite after 179 days per calendar year.

The above is related to "persons".  

Related to "boat", boats from about 25 countries can obtain a 1-year cruising license, renewable by the boat briefly leaving the U.S.  Our boat is now on its third cruising license (third year).  Countries not on the list cannot get a cruising license, and it becomes very difficult to do any type of coastal cruising in the U.S. without a cruising license.


sv Peregrinus
At anchor, St. Marys, Georgia


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] impellor for volvo 110 on the 54

karkauai
 

I'm working on a list of models and serial numbers, and specs for engine, generator, all pumps, AC, etc.  I'll print it out and keep it in the "cloud" for access when not aboard.  I will add part numbers and sources of anything I order so I'll have them if(when) I have to reorder.
Once it is far enough along to be of use to others, I'll post it in Files.  It will be specific to my boat, but where  the equipment is similar, it may be of help to others.

Kent
SM243
Kristy



On Dec 19, 2014, at 11:43 AM, JEFFREY KRAUS jmkraus@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Bozo,

Michael Last had a different kit #(21346756). Your number does correspond to the impeller kit, but I wondered if you had the actual engine type. I believe it to be a D3 110A for your kit. I wonder if Joel can answer whether the 54s had the same 110 series motor in all of them. There are A thru E on these 110s. I assume if you have hull #44 and I'm 14, and you have "A", mine should be and A also. I just want to be certain I'm getting the proper kit. I'll have to keep the engine serial number in my wallet in the future to make parts ordering from afar easier.
Jeff Kraus 54 #14
 
 
 
On Thu, Dec 18, 2014 at 01:56 PM, Bozo Cinq bozocinq@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:
 
 
 

Jeff,

Volvo Penta Raw Water Pump Impeller Kit - Part #3593660. Also, there is a special tool for removing the impeller. Ask Volvo Penta for it. It works like screw that screws in the centre of impeller and pulls it out. 


Bozo Cinq
AMEL 54 - #44








On Dec 18, 2014, at 11:58 AM, Michael Last lastmd@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Here it is Jeff, 21346756

-----Original Message-----
From: jmkraus@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Thu, Dec 18, 2014 3:42 am
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] impellor for volvo 110 on the 54

 
I'm currently in NY and I'd like to get a spare impellor to have aboard when I return to SC to leave for my trip south. Does anyone with the Volvo 110 know the part number of the impellor? 
Jeff 54 #14



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] impellor for volvo 110 on the 54

Bozo Cinq <bozocinq@...>
 

Hi,

My Volvo engine model is D3-110I-C. So, there may be a different impeller part #. I would definitely call Volvo to get the correct P/N. The following is contact for Volvo in Jacksonville, Fl - He is really terrific. Fordham Marine Services, Inc. 904-743-2141 - ask for Nelson.



Bozo Cinq
AMEL 54 - #44








On Dec 19, 2014, at 11:47 AM, Peter Forbes ppsforbes@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

I have Amel 54 #035 and my Volvo is D3-1101B.


The impeller is #3842786 (Volvo 21951352)

i hope that helps.

Peter
Peter Forbes
0044 7836 209730
Carango  Sailing Ketch
Amel 54 #035
Gouvia Marina - CORFU, Greece

On 19 Dec 2014, at 16:43, JEFFREY KRAUS jmkraus@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Bozo,

Michael Last had a different kit #(21346756). Your number does correspond to the impeller kit, but I wondered if you had the actual engine type. I believe it to be a D3 110A for your kit. I wonder if Joel can answer whether the 54s had the same 1 10 serie s motor in all of them. There are A thru E on these 110s. I assume if you have hull #44 and I'm 14, and you have "A", mine should be and A also. I just want to be certain I'm getting the proper kit. I'll have to keep the engine serial number in my wallet in the future to make parts ordering from afar easier.
Jeff Kraus 54 #14
 
 
 
On Thu, Dec 18, 2014 at 01:56 PM, Bozo Cinq bozocinq@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:
 
 
 

Jeff,

Volvo Penta Raw Water Pump Impeller Kit - Part #3593660. Also, there is a special tool for removing the impeller. Ask Volvo Penta for it. It works like screw that screws in the centre of impeller and pulls it out. 


Bozo Cinq
AMEL 54 - #44








On Dec 18, 2014, at 11:58 AM, Michael Last lastmd@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Here it is Jeff, 21346756

-----Original Message-----
From: jmkraus @optonline.net [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Thu, Dec 18, 2014 3:42 am
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] impellor for volvo 110 on the 54

 
I'm currently in NY and I'd like to get a spare impellor to have aboard when I return to SC to leave for my trip south . Does a nyone with the Volvo 110 know the part number of the impellor? 
Jeff 54 #14







Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] impellor for volvo 110 on the 54

amelforme
 

There were, I am almost certain, at least two different raw water pumps on the 110 Volvo fitted to the Amel 54. The 110 Volvo in our Amel 55 demonstration boat has a completely different raw water pump as well as a much different assemblage of the ancillary components. The block and head appear to be very similar but everything else is different.



Joel F. Potter/Cruising Yacht Specialist LLC

THE AMEL GUY

954 462 5869







From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Friday, December 19, 2014 11:44 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] impellor for volvo 110 on the 54





Bozo,

Michael Last had a different kit #(21346756). Your number does correspond to the impeller kit, but I wondered if you had the actual engine type. I believe it to be a D3 110A for your kit. I wonder if Joel can answer whether the 54s had the same 110 series motor in all of them. There are A thru E on these 110s. I assume if you have hull #44 and I'm 14, and you have "A", mine should be and A also. I just want to be certain I'm getting the proper kit. I'll have to keep the engine serial number in my wallet in the future to make parts ordering from afar easier.

Jeff Kraus 54 #14







On Thu, Dec 18, 2014 at 01:56 PM, Bozo Cinq bozocinq@wollenberg.net [amelyachtowners] wrote:







Jeff,

Volvo Penta Raw Water Pump Impeller Kit - Part #3593660. Also, there is a special tool for removing the impeller. Ask Volvo Penta for it. It works like screw that screws in the centre of impeller and pulls it out.





Bozo Cinq

AMEL 54 - #44

bozocinq@wollenberg.net <mailto:bozocinq@wollenberg.net>















On Dec 18, 2014, at 11:58 AM, Michael Last lastmd@aol.com <mailto:lastmd@aol.com> [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com <mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> > wrote:





Here it is Jeff, 21346756

Michael



svcallisto.blogspot.com <http://svcallisto.blogspot.com/>



-----Original Message-----
From: jmkraus@optonline.net <mailto:jmkraus@optonline.net> [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com <mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> >
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com <mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> >
Sent: Thu, Dec 18, 2014 3:42 am
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] impellor for volvo 110 on the 54



I'm currently in NY and I'd like to get a spare impellor to have aboard when I return to SC to leave for my trip south. Does anyone with the Volvo 110 know the part number of the impellor?

Jeff 54 #14









[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] impellor for volvo 110 on the 54

Peter Forbes
 

I have Amel 54 #035 and my Volvo is D3-1101B.

The impeller is #3842786 (Volvo 21951352)

i hope that helps.

Peter
Peter Forbes
0044 7836 209730
Carango  Sailing Ketch
Amel 54 #035
Gouvia Marina - CORFU, Greece

On 19 Dec 2014, at 16:43, JEFFREY KRAUS jmkraus@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Bozo,

Michael Last had a different kit #(21346756). Your number does correspond to the impeller kit, but I wondered if you had the actual engine type. I believe it to be a D3 110A for your kit. I wonder if Joel can answer whether the 54s had the same 110 series motor in all of them. There are A thru E on these 110s. I assume if you have hull #44 and I'm 14, and you have "A", mine should be and A also. I just want to be certain I'm getting the proper kit. I'll have to keep the engine serial number in my wallet in the future to make parts ordering from afar easier.
Jeff Kraus 54 #14
 
 
 
On Thu, Dec 18, 2014 at 01:56 PM, Bozo Cinq bozocinq@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:
 
 
 

Jeff,

Volvo Penta Raw Water Pump Impeller Kit - Part #3593660. Also, there is a special tool for removing the impeller. Ask Volvo Penta for it. It works like screw that screws in the centre of impeller and pulls it out. 


Bozo Cinq
AMEL 54 - #44








On Dec 18, 2014, at 11:58 AM, Michael Last lastmd@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Here it is Jeff, 21346756

-----Original Message-----
From: jmkraus@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Thu, Dec 18, 2014 3:42 am
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] impellor for volvo 110 on the 54

 
I'm currently in NY and I'd like to get a spare impellor to have aboard when I return to SC to leave for my trip south. Does anyone with the Volvo 110 know the part number of the impellor? 
Jeff 54 #14





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] impellor for volvo 110 on the 54

JEFFREY KRAUS
 


Mizzen roller furler gearbox in an AMEL Mango

Jose_Luis Isasi
 

Dear all. Merry Christmas!

For those of you that love solving riddles, quizzes and apparently impossible problems:

Juan, owner of Mango n 56 (Tortola V) has sent me a special request for translation. He is in Cartagena de Indias and he has an issue with the manual gearbox for the mizzen roller furler. It is jammed and he needs to dismount it in order to service it.


Looking at the photographs is easier to understand but basically in order to remove the gearbox, it is first unscrewed from the mast and from the furler spar. I have added a couple of pictures in the files section under folder TORTOLA V (AMEL MANGO) ( I copy the link here): https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/amelyachtowners/files/TORTOLA%20V%20%28AMEL%20MANGO%29/


The gearbox has 2 shafts, one for the handle, that crosses the mast, and another one that is introduced into the roller furler spar. The shafts form an L shape one with the other.

So he cannot move it down because the shaft for the handle is crossing the mast, and he cannot move it backwards because the shaft for the furler is inside the spar, pointing up and refraining from moving sideways.


He kindly asks advice from other user´s experience, of course he does not wish to remove the mast to do this. He wrote in French to AMEL  but he has not received an answer.


Could possibly some of you help him with ideas?

Thank you very much.

JL

Group moderator


New file uploaded to amelyachtowners

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Hello,


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