Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Inverters

karkauai
 

On Kristy, I have (had) a charger/inverter that produced 220AC which was connected only to the Microwave and the 220AC receptacles.  We used it to make coffee and heat water for tea, or to nuke something quickly for a quick meal without having to crank up the generator.  If I didn't have it I would miss it.
I have a 1000 W inverter that I use mostly to charge my computers and tools like drills, etc.  I haven't found the small stepdown transformers that plug into the 220AC outlets and produce 110AC to be very useful.

Kent
SM 243
Kristy


On Feb 1, 2015, at 3:24 PM, kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Mark,

Where is your boat currently located?

I a found a small inverter that plugs into the cigarette socket at the nav station,
Radio shack. The only things that i found the need for a larger inverter is a heat gun that i use for numerous tasks. a power strip we use to charge the rechargeable drill batteries, Vhf radios and a Hunongous soldering iron that is over a 1000 watts.
I bought a 220 volt iron  for clothes and a blender.Most computer and phone chargers use 110/220 50/60.
I also wired a triple 12 volt (radio shack) outlet at the nav station and my cabin 
for misc chargers/
eric



----- Original Message -----
From: "'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners]"
Date: Sunday, February 1, 2015 3:02 pm
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: FW: inverters/chargers
To: amelyachtowners@...

> After giving this a lot of thought I have decided to remove the
> failinginverter/charger and reinstall a 30amp charger that was
> in this spot. I was
> pondering the question that Eric asked, why do I need 220
> inverted AC power
> when under sail.
>
>
>
> The previous owner replaced the 30 amp charger in the engine
> room with a
> charger/inverter (a replacement 30 amp charger was installed at
> the nav
> station). The best I can tell, he used the existing large gauge
> batterycables to connect the inverter/charger. He used the
> circuit breaker that
> powered the 30 amp charger to power the inverter/charger. He ran
> the AC 220v
> outlets breaker to the inverter/charger. I plan to reverse this
> and go back
> to having the 30amp charger located in the engine room and
> controlled by the
> 220 breaker panel. I will need to connect the AC 220v outlets
> back to a
> power source somewhere. This is an area of the boat that I have
> not dug
> deeply into yet. I may need some help later.
>
>
>
> Thanks to all who contributed!!!!!
>
>
>
> On a side note, Cindy and I are pretty excited as we have sold
> our house. We
> are currently moving the remainder of our stuff into storage and
> will be
> away from Cream Puff for a couple of weeks. Time to go cruising!!!!!
>
>
>
>
>
> With best regards,
>
>
>
> Mark
>
>
>
> Super Maramu 2000
>
> Hull #275
>
> www.creampuff.us
>
>
>
>


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Inverters

eric freedman
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bowthruster on AMEL 54 suddenly stops; Propellers clear

Germain Jean-Pierre <jgermain@...>
 

Ooops....  bigger boat = bigger hardware!

:-)


On 1 Feb 2015, at 21:33, Beaute Olivier atlanticyachtsurvey@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hello Jean-Pierre,

the lower unit on an AMEL 54 is much heavier than on a SM. And that's a piece of hardware you don't want to drop...

Best regards.

Olivier


On Sunday, February 1, 2015 9:29 PM, "Germain Jean-Pierre jgermain@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


 
Hello Peter,

On the SM's, it is a fairly simple process to accomplish while afloat.  You need a friend to help you.. or a physically strong female partner.

I have a special tool on board to guide it in and out of the housing.

Cheers,


Jean-Pierre Germain
SY Eleuthera, SM 007.


On 1 Feb 2015, at 21:14, Beaute Olivier atlanticyachtsurvey@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Peter,

a skilled mechanic can do it easily when the vessel is out of the water.
While the vessel is afloat, the problem may be the weight of the lower unit that must be disconnected and held Inside, during part's replacement.
As I've never done that personnally, I will ask AMEL about that (is it possible to do it afloat?)

Olivier.


On Sunday, February 1, 2015 8:55 PM, "Peter Forbes ppsforbes@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


 
Olivier,

Thank you - very interesting - is this easy to change or do you have to remove the Amel 54 from the water to change this?

Peter
Peter Forbes
0044 7836 209730
Carango  Sailing Ketch
Amel 54 #035
Gouvia Marina - CORFU, Greece

On 1 Feb 2015, at 19:52, Beaute Olivier atlanticyachtsurvey@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Good evening Martin,

there is a piece of plastic that connects the motor to the transmissi on shaft. This coupler is designed to break if, for instance, you catch a rope in yours props. That's the "weak" part of the system, designed on purpose.
Therefore, instead of breaking/damaging important parts, you only break this part.
You should ask AMEL la Rochelle and order that part for replacement.

Best regards.

Olivier


On Sunday, February 1, 2015 4:43 PM, "luvkante@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


 
Dear friends,

When I was manouevering last time, all of the sudden the bowthruster-propeller "disengaged".
I checked under water: both propellers are ok. No object inside. Both props turn (to) freely.

Most of the functions of the bowthruster are ok: it goes properly up and 
down and the electrical motor works to the right and the left.

BUT:  THERE IS NO MORE MECHANICAL CONNECTION BETWEEN THE ELECTRICAL MOTOR 
AND THE PROPELLER!

The motor runs at EXTREME HIGH RPM and quite loud because there is no more 
load. 

My question: CAN IT BE A COUPLING OR A GEAR WHICH BROKE?

I opened the bowthruster-box and at a first glance everything looked normal.




Thanks in advance for your support.

Martin
AMEL 54 #149 CHIARA



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bowthruster on AMEL 54 suddenly stops; Propellers clear

Beaute Olivier
 

Hello Jean-Pierre,

the lower unit on an AMEL 54 is much heavier than on a SM. And that's a piece of hardware you don't want to drop...

Best regards.

Olivier


On Sunday, February 1, 2015 9:29 PM, "Germain Jean-Pierre jgermain@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:


 
Hello Peter,

On the SM's, it is a fairly simple process to accomplish while afloat.  You need a friend to help you.. or a physically strong female partner.

I have a special tool on board to guide it in and out of the housing.

Cheers,


Jean-Pierre Germain
SY Eleuthera, SM 007.


On 1 Feb 2015, at 21:14, Beaute Olivier atlanticyachtsurvey@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Peter,

a skilled mechanic can do it easily when the vessel is out of the water.
While the vessel is afloat, the problem may be the weight of the lower unit that must be disconnected and held Inside, during part's replacement.
As I've never done that personnally, I will ask AMEL about that (is it possible to do it afloat?)

Olivier.


On Sunday, February 1, 2015 8:55 PM, "Peter Forbes ppsforbes@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


 
Olivier,

Thank you - very interesting - is this easy to change or do you have to remove the Amel 54 from the water to change this?

Peter
Peter Forbes
0044 7836 209730
Carango  Sailing Ketch
Amel 54 #035
Gouvia Marina - CORFU, Greece

On 1 Feb 2015, at 19:52, Beaute Olivier atlanticyachtsurvey@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Good evening Martin,

there is a piece of plastic that connects the motor to the transmission shaft. This coupler is designed to break if, for instance, you catch a rope in yours props. That's the "weak" part of the system, designed on purpose.
Therefore, instead of breaking/damaging important parts, you only break this part.
You should ask AMEL la Rochelle and order that part for replacement.

Best regards.

Olivier


On Sunday, February 1, 2015 4:43 PM, "luvkante@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


 
Dear friends,

When I was manouevering last time, all of the sudden the bowthruster-propeller "disengaged".
I checked under water: both propellers are ok. No object inside. Both props turn (to) freely.

Most of the functions of the bowthruster are ok: it goes properly up and 
down and the electrical motor works to the right and the left.

BUT:  THERE IS NO MORE MECHANICAL CONNECTION BETWEEN THE ELECTRICAL MOTOR 
AND THE PROPELLER!

The motor runs at EXTREME HIGH RPM and quite loud because there is no more 
load. 

My question: CAN IT BE A COUPLING OR A GEAR WHICH BROKE?

I opened the bowthruster-box and at a first glance everything looked normal.




Thanks in advance for your support.

Martin
AMEL 54 #149 CHIARA












Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Inverters

Mark Erdos
 

Eric,



We will be in St Petersburg FL until end of March. Then, we plan to bump our
way up the east coast and summer in the Chesapeake Bay.







With best regards,



Mark



Super Maramu 2000

Hull #275

www.creampuff.us



From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Sunday, February 01, 2015 3:24 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Inverters





Mark,

Where is your boat currently located?



I a found a small inverter that plugs into the cigarette socket at the nav
station,

Radio shack. The only things that i found the need for a larger inverter is
a heat gun that i use for numerous tasks. a power strip we use to charge the
rechargeable drill batteries, Vhf radios and a Hunongous soldering iron that
is over a 1000 watts.

I bought a 220 volt iron for clothes and a blender.Most computer and phone
chargers use 110/220 50/60.

I also wired a triple 12 volt (radio shack) outlet at the nav station and my
cabin

for misc chargers/

eric

----- Original Message -----
From: "'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@gmail.com [amelyachtowners]"
Date: Sunday, February 1, 2015 3:02 pm
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: FW: inverters/chargers
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com

After giving this a lot of thought I have decided to remove the
failinginverter/charger and reinstall a 30amp charger that was
in this spot. I was
pondering the question that Eric asked, why do I need 220
inverted AC power
when under sail.



The previous owner replaced the 30 amp charger in the engine
room with a
charger/inverter (a replacement 30 amp charger was installed at
the nav
station). The best I can tell, he used the existing large gauge
batterycables to connect the inverter/charger. He used the
circuit breaker that
powered the 30 amp charger to power the inverter/charger. He ran
the AC 220v
outlets breaker to the inverter/charger. I plan to reverse this
and go back
to having the 30amp charger located in the engine room and
controlled by the
220 breaker panel. I will need to connect the AC 220v outlets
back to a
power source somewhere. This is an area of the boat that I have
not dug
deeply into yet. I may need some help later.



Thanks to all who contributed!!!!!



On a side note, Cindy and I are pretty excited as we have sold
our house. We
are currently moving the remainder of our stuff into storage and
will be
away from Cream Puff for a couple of weeks. Time to go cruising!!!!!





With best regards,



Mark



Super Maramu 2000

Hull #275

www.creampuff.us




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bowthruster on AMEL 54 suddenly stops; Propellers clear

Germain Jean-Pierre <jgermain@...>
 

Hello Peter,

On the SM's, it is a fairly simple process to accomplish while afloat.  You need a friend to help you.. or a physically strong female partner.

I have a special tool on board to guide it in and out of the housing.

Cheers,


Jean-Pierre Germain
SY Eleuthera, SM 007.


On 1 Feb 2015, at 21:14, Beaute Olivier atlanticyachtsurvey@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Peter,

a skilled mechanic can do it easily when the vessel is out of the water.
While the vessel is afloat, the problem may be the weight of the lower unit that must be disconnected and held Inside, during part's replacement.
As I've never done that personnally, I will ask AMEL about that (is it possible to do it afloat?)

Olivier.


On Sunday, February 1, 2015 8:55 PM, "Peter Forbes ppsforbes@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


 
Olivier,

Thank you - very interesting - is this easy to change or do you have to remove the Amel 54 from the water to change this?

Peter
Peter Forbes
0044 7836 209730
Carango  Sailing Ketch
Amel 54 #035
Gouvia Marina - CORFU, Greece

On 1 Feb 2015, at 19:52, Beaute Olivier atlanticyachtsurvey@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Good evening Martin,

there is a piece of plastic that connects the motor to the transmission shaft. This coupler is designed to break if, for instance, you catch a rope in yours props. That's the "weak" part of the system, designed on purpose.
Therefore, instead of breaking/damaging important parts, you only break this part.
You should ask AMEL la Rochelle and order that part for replacement.

Best regards.

Olivier


On Sunday, February 1, 2015 4:43 PM, "luvkante@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


 
Dear friends,

When I was manouevering last time, all of the sudden the bowthruster-propeller "disengaged".
I checked under water: both propellers are ok. No object inside. Both props turn (to) freely.

Most of the functions of the bowthruster are ok: it goes properly up and 
down and the electrical motor works to the right and the left.

BUT:  THERE IS NO MORE MECHANICAL CONNECTION BETWEEN THE ELECTRICAL MOTOR 
AND THE PROPELLER!

The motor runs at EXTREME HIGH RPM and quite loud because there is no more 
load. 

My question: CAN IT BE A COUPLING OR A GEAR WHICH BROKE?

I opened the bowthruster-box and at a first glance everything looked normal.




Thanks in advance for your support.

Martin
AMEL 54 #149 CHIARA










Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Amel's Bonding System

Beaute Olivier
 

Hi gary,

the cast iron ballast, on a Sharki, is dropped Inside the GRP keel, glued with polyester, and isn't held with bolts. It should never touch the water and isn't bonded.
The bonding point that Dieter searches can be the engine body, or the top of the rudder shaft in the aft cabin.
There aren't so many items to bond in a Sharki, but, for instance, the through hull and seacock for the WC must be bonded (a wire connecting the seacock to the engine body or to the rudder shaft).

Al the best.


On Sunday, February 1, 2015 9:16 PM, amelliahona wrote:


 
Hi Dieter:

I know nothing about Sharki construction, but just wanted to verify that the copper bar that connects the keel bolt of a SM (iron keel encased in epoxy paint envelope and hopefully with minimal salt water exposure), is part of the bonding system, not part of the AC grounding system.  I would guess that the Sharki keel is connected to the bonding somewhere.  Olivier, what say you?

Gary Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM #335



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: FW: inverters/chargers

karkauai
 

I have bench tested my Sterling charger/inverter and confirmed that there is no AC or DC output, after confirming 24VDC at the DC output poles with the 24V battery bank connected (ie there is DC voltage input for the inverter) and  that there is 220AC input (ie AC input for the charger, and for AC pass through to the AC output).
So nothing is working as inverter or charger.
I took the case off and confirmed that the AC input and AC output are grounded to the case where the grounding stud is.

Per Olivier's post, I checked for continuity between the AC negative pole ind the grounding stud and found 4 M Ohms.

Since it doesn't work at all now I don't know if this high resistance continuity is due to a fault, or if it is found when the unit is working properly.

Should I be thinking of ditching this expensive, little-used piece of equipment, or should I send it all the way back to England for repairs?  I'll call Sterling USA tomorrow and let you know what they say.

Arrrgh Mateys, me head's a swimmin!

Kent
SM 243
Kristy

More about the electrolysis search in a post on that thread.


On Jan 31, 2015, at 4:38 PM, Beaute Olivier atlanticyachtsurvey@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Good evening Kent,

on your sterling inverter, if the negative DC is internally connected to the ground (you should measure the resistance between the DC negative terminal and the ground terminal) then don't keep this Equipment.
If the resistance is infinite, then it should be OK, BUT!!, once connected and ON, measure the resistance again. It must be infinite (otherwise,  throw over board!!!).

Olivier


On Saturday, January 31, 2015 5:47 PM, "Andrew Lamb andrew.lamb@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


 
Dear Gary
I am just picking my way through this so that I (hopefully) thoroughly understand this:
The BONDING system is there to provide protection for item # 1.  “ – yes but surely as this represents a large proportion of the boats metalwork particularly those bits in contact with the water then it is relevant to #2 also
 
If you tie your bonding system to the grounding system and an electrical fault occurs the electrical current can take multiple paths including into the surrounding water or into all the metallic fittings that are bonded together, causing a hazardous situation. “ – I don’t understand this - surely in a correctly wired grounding system, with all metal components connected to the grounding system with low resistance connections, the path of least resistance will be via the grounding system and will cause a circuit breaker to trip not via any other route.
Therefore in the case of a ragged extension lead, faulty water heater or electrical tool creating a connection to part of the “bonded” metal work of the boat e.g. in the engine room then if there is a connection to the grounding system then a low resistance path is formed and a circuit breaker will trip – which surely is a safer position than these bonded metallic components potentially being “hot” and undetected?
 
“Bottom line is:  DO NOT TIE THE GROUNDING SYSTEM OF ANY AC CIRCUITS OR DEVICES AND THE BONDING SYSTEMS TOGETHER. “ – this is a bold statement and seems to run against a lot of advice from other sources – you may be correct but I am trying to understand why.
 
Throughout Nigel Calder’s book (Boatowner’s mechanical and electrical manual) he strongly emphasizes the need to connect the AC grounding system to the boats bonding however he does acknowledge “in certain circumstances it (AC grounding to bonding connection) can become a safety hazard. “ and describes the situation where there is a fault in the grounding wire from the boat to the shore and goes on to recommend regular inspection of the shore-power cords rather than disconnecting the bonding. However I guess this does mean there is a lot of responsibility on the port providing a safe electrical supply and also maintaining this correctly.
 
However in our scenario with an isolation transformer, I cannot see (perhaps I am missing something?) the disadvantage of connecting the boats “bonding” to the AC grounding system as there is no affinity for returning current to pass through water and connecting the metal work of the boat will afford extra protection in the case of a fault that connects the boats metalwork to a hot AC wire. It also re-affirms to me the significant safety advantage of an isolation transformer over and above a galvanic isolator as it reduces the need to have trust in the ports electrical systems.
 
 
Andrew
 
 
Ronpische
SM2k 472
Canet en Roussillion, France
 
Hi Andrew:
 
There are two separate issues to discuss here.   
 
1.  Stray current / galvanic current protection of sea water immersed or contacted metallic parts.
2.  Electrical fault protection to prevent electrocution/fire/overload for AC circuits etc.
(the 3rd one, DC fault protection has already been discussed)
 
It may be that you are confusing issues 1 & 2 (easy to do since there is so much erroneous stuff published)  
 
The BONDING system is there to provide protection for item # 1.  It is a low voltage/low current system.
 
The GROUNDING system is there to provide protection for # 2 for AC circuits and is a high voltage/high current system (generally anything over 50 volts is considered high voltage).
 
I perceive that your question is more related to #2.   The answer to #2 is related to both the supply of power to the inverter or inverter charger, and the output of an inverter.   Additionally the answer depends upon whether the boat has an isolation transformer (as yours does) or does not.  
 
First,  consider this;  If the 120 volts or 220 volts supplied to the inverter (or inverter/charger) should fault (e.g. come in contact with the case of the unit), there needs to be a low resistance return path for the electrical current to its source to cause a short circuit that trips or opens the protection circuit breaker (CB) or fuse. 
 
If there isn't that return path, then someone touching the case while touching another grounded item would provide the electrical return path and could be be electrocuted.  A true short circuit should be momentary if the circuit is protected adequately.  It should very rapidly trip the CB or blow the fuse before damage to persons or property occurs.  The grounding wire (aka safety ground, earth, earthing and hereafter referred to as the grounding conductor) wire is normally a non-current carrying conductor.  It only comes into play when the original current carrying lines (either the neutral in 120 volt system or one or the other of the two 220 volt lines) faults and can't provide the return pathway (e.g. 110 or 220 volt inside the appliance comes in contact with the case such as power shorts to the enclosure of a microwave and the original current return pathway is interrupted).   The grounding wire provides the safety backup low resistance pathway to complete a short circuit and open the CB or fuse.  The grounding wire is tied together with the neutral (120 volt system) or the legs of the 220 volt system AT THE ELECTRICAL PRODUCTION SOURCE.   With a isolation transformer the ELECTRICAL PRODUCTION SOURCE is the boat side winding of the transformer. For 110 volt systems with an isolation transformer the neutral and grounding wire are tied together at the transformer.  For a 220 volt system the grounding wire is tied to a winding of the transformer.  Without an isolation transformer the grounding wire is carried directly to shore and hooked to wherever the electrical production source is (perhaps a line transformer).  


In the example above, once the electrical fault occurs, the safety ground provides a no load (low resistance) pathway for current flow and the large current flow trips the breaker or pops the fuse.


If you tie your bonding system to the grounding system and an electrical fault occurs the electrical current can take multiple paths including into the surrounding water or into all the metallic fittings that are bonded together, causing a hazardous situation.  


The output side of an inverter should provide fault protection via GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupters) built into the inverter or provide on any output circuits.  


DC circuit fault protection is provided by DC circuit breakers or fuses between the battery + & - poles.  .  


Bottom line is:  DO NOT TIE THE GROUNDING SYSTEM OF ANY AC CIRCUITS OR DEVICES AND THE BONDING SYSTEMS TOGETHER. 


Hope this helps. 


Sincerely, 


Gary Silver
s/v Liahona
SM # 335 


 
 
 



micro switches for bow thruster on 54

JEFFREY KRAUS
 

Hello,

I was wondering if anyone knew where to get the micro switches that are activated upon maximum up and down as the motor moves up and down?

I also need to replace one of the horseshoe shaped plastic guides that serve to guide the motor up and down on the vertical tubes.

I could fashion one out of plastic board myself if needs be.

The material seems to be similar to what a plastic cutting board is made from.

I may buy one and sacrifice it for the greater good.

Thanks in advance.

Jeff 54 #14


Inverters

eric freedman
 


Re: Amel's Bonding System

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Dieter:

I know nothing about Sharki construction, but just wanted to verify that the copper bar that connects the keel bolt of a SM (iron keel encased in epoxy paint envelope and hopefully with minimal salt water exposure), is part of the bonding system, not part of the AC grounding system.  I would guess that the Sharki keel is connected to the bonding somewhere.  Olivier, what say you?

Gary Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM #335


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bowthruster on AMEL 54 suddenly stops; Propellers clear

Peter Forbes
 

Olivier,
\
Thank you - can you also ask for part number and price for spare sacrificial plastic part and any other parts on needs to do this.

Peter
Peter Forbes
0044 7836 209730
Carango  Sailing Ketch
Amel 54 #035
Gouvia Marina - CORFU, Greece

On 1 Feb 2015, at 20:14, Beaute Olivier atlanticyachtsurvey@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Hi Peter,

a skilled mechanic can do it easily when the vessel is out of the water.
While the vessel is afloat, the problem may be the weight of the lower unit that must be disconnected and held Inside, during part's replacement.
As I've never done that personnally, I will ask AMEL about that (is it possible to do it afloat?)

Olivier.


On Sunday, February 1, 2015 8:55 PM, "Peter Forbes ppsforbes@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


 
Olivier,

Thank you - very interesting - is this easy to change or do you have to remove the Amel 54 from the water to change this?

Peter
Peter Forbes
0044 7836 209730
Carango  Sailing Ketch
Amel 54 #035
Gouvia Marina - CORFU, Greece

On 1 Feb 2015, at 19:52, Beaute Olivier atlanticyachtsurvey@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Good evening Martin,

there is a piece of plastic that connects the motor to the transmission shaft. This coupler is designed to break if, for instance, you catch a rope in yours props. That's the "weak" part of the system, designed on purpose.
Therefore, instead of breaking/damaging important parts, you only break this part.
You should ask AMEL la Rochelle and order that part for replacement.

Best regards.

Olivier


On Sunday, February 1, 2015 4:43 PM, "luvkante@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


 
Dear friends,

When I was manouevering last time, all of the sudden the bowthruster-propeller "disengaged".
I checked under water: both propellers are ok. No object inside. Both props turn (to) freely.

Most of the functions of the bowthruster are ok: it goes properly up and 
down and the electrical motor works to the right and the left.

BUT:  THERE IS NO MORE MECHANICAL CONNECTION BETWEEN THE ELECTRICAL MOTOR 
AND THE PROPELLER!

The motor runs at EXTREME HIGH RPM and quite loud because there is no more 
load. 

My question: CAN IT BE A COUPLING OR A GEAR WHICH BROKE?

I opened the bowthruster-box and at a first glance everything looked normal.




Thanks in advance for your support.

Martin
AMEL 54 #149 CHIARA










Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bowthruster on AMEL 54 suddenly stops; Propellers clear

Beaute Olivier
 

Hi Peter,

a skilled mechanic can do it easily when the vessel is out of the water.
While the vessel is afloat, the problem may be the weight of the lower unit that must be disconnected and held Inside, during part's replacement.
As I've never done that personnally, I will ask AMEL about that (is it possible to do it afloat?)

Olivier.


On Sunday, February 1, 2015 8:55 PM, "Peter Forbes ppsforbes@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:


 
Olivier,

Thank you - very interesting - is this easy to change or do you have to remove the Amel 54 from the water to change this?

Peter
Peter Forbes
0044 7836 209730
Carango  Sailing Ketch
Amel 54 #035
Gouvia Marina - CORFU, Greece

On 1 Feb 2015, at 19:52, Beaute Olivier atlanticyachtsurvey@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Good evening Martin,

there is a piece of plastic that connects the motor to the transmission shaft. This coupler is designed to break if, for instance, you catch a rope in yours props. That's the "weak" part of the system, designed on purpose.
Therefore, instead of breaking/damaging important parts, you only break this part.
You should ask AMEL la Rochelle and order that part for replacement.

Best regards.

Olivier


On Sunday, February 1, 2015 4:43 PM, "luvkante@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


 
Dear friends,

When I was manouevering last time, all of the sudden the bowthruster-propeller "disengaged".
I checked under water: both propellers are ok. No object inside. Both props turn (to) freely.

Most of the functions of the bowthruster are ok: it goes properly up and 
down and the electrical motor works to the right and the left.

BUT:  THERE IS NO MORE MECHANICAL CONNECTION BETWEEN THE ELECTRICAL MOTOR 
AND THE PROPELLER!

The motor runs at EXTREME HIGH RPM and quite loud because there is no more 
load. 

My question: CAN IT BE A COUPLING OR A GEAR WHICH BROKE?

I opened the bowthruster-box and at a first glance everything looked normal.




Thanks in advance for your support.

Martin
AMEL 54 #149 CHIARA








Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: FW: inverters/chargers

Andrew & Kate Lamb
 

Hi Eric

 

In Europe there is 220v alternating current between blue and brown wires but the blue wire is also connected to earth (i.e. it is grounded) at the source of the power  (Gary Silver explained this very well in previous posts) – I suppose this is why it is called NEUTRAL  because in a correctly wire installation there should be no potential (zero volts) between the neutral wire and earth and therefore no danger of electric shock. The brown wire however is not grounded and is therefore LIVE  and one could therefore call it “hot” as it has the potential to cause electrocution.

 

In practical terms though it can sometimes be difficult in appliances to sort out which wire is actually “hot” relative to earth as double insulated appliances in Europe only need to have two wire connectors, which are reversible!

 

Andrew

 

 

Ronpische

SM2k 472

Canet en Roussillion, France

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Sunday, February 01, 2015 8:35 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: FW: inverters/chargers

 

 

Dear Hanspeter,

I said that between the blue brown you  have 220 volts between them and that the yellow green is earth.

I made no reference to the earth being connected to the the blue or brown.

Could you please tell me what the voltage is between the blue and earth and the brown and earth? If you have as you say and I agree that both the brown and blue are hot then in USA electrical terms there is no neutral in other words no voltage - or neutral. Please let me know about the voltages as I requested and re -read my comments.

Fair winds,

eric



----- Original Message -----
From: "'hanspeter.baettig@...' hanspeter.baettig@... [amelyachtowners]"
Date: Sunday, February 1, 2015 10:25 am
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: FW: inverters/chargers
To: "amelyachtowners@..."

> To Eric, Kimberlite
> Eric Your comments about Europen 220 System.
> You are not correct and it was writen a Lot of confusing stuff
> about invertets, boundings , Yellow/green
> In Europe we have of course 220 V 50 Hz
> Brown , Blue and earth
> The Blue is neutral otherwise we do not have 220 Volt. Neutral
> has nothing to do with neutral we call them Null Leiter (in German)
> So, the Brown and the Blue are hot. Nothing to do with earth/g/y
> In the US we put 2 110 v Lines to 220 v easy, but still 60 Hz
> Hanspeter
> SM/16 Tamango 2
> Hanspeter Baettig
> Dipl. El. Ing. ETS
>
>
>
> Von meinem iPhone gesendet
>
> > Am 30.01.2015 um 16:26 schrieb "Kent Robertson
> karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]"
> :>
> > Hi again, everyone.
> > Another question about galvanic isolation.
> > I do not have an isolation transformer, but I do have a
> transformer for 110 shorepower that produces 220VAC. Both the
> direct 220 and the 220 from the transformer enter a junction box
> on the forward engine room bulkhead. There are two receptacles,
> one marked 110 to 220 transformer, the other marked 220 direct.
> I have to switch the plug from one to the other depending on
> whether I'm hooked up to 220 or 110 shorepower.
> >
> > I want to add a galvanic isolator to my shore power
> connections. Do I have to have two of them (one for the 110
> input and the other for the 220 input), or can I put a single
> unit in on the output which takes either to the boat systems? Or
> is there a unit that would accept both the 110 input and the 220
> input where they enter the boat (I guess in the aft lazarette)?
> Can anyone suggest a specific unit that works for this
> application on your Amel?
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> > Kent
> >
> > --------------------------------------------
> > On Fri, 1/30/15, kimberlite@... wrote:
> > Hi ,you use the word neutral in your comments about
> > your inverter charger.Here
> > in the usa there are 4 wires on a 220 volt circuit. 2 hot
> > leads each 110 volts (usually red and black) and a neutral
> > white.There is also a green
> > Ground ( earth)
> > European
> > wiring does not have a neutral just 220 volts between the
> > blue and brown wire and a yellow green earth.
> > The yellow green earth on the Ac circuit
> > should not be connected to the boat bonding. even though the
> > wires are the same color Yellow-Green. Although
> > ABYC regulations say that the AC earth should be connected
> > together with the boats bonding- this is a bad
> > idea.The Ac circuits and
> > the DC circuits and bonding should be kept separate. In fact
> > there should also be a Galvanic isolator installed in the
> > AC earth (yellow green wire)Connecting the Ac earth and the
> bonding together
> > is an accident waiting to happen.Connecting the earth to the
> bonding will allow any
> > stray electrical currents to flow from the ac side
> > through the bonding.Where
> > is the isolation transformer installed in the circuit on
> > your boat and how is the earth wire
> > connected?Fair
> > windsEricsm376
> >
> >
> > Fair
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Andrew Lamb
> > andrew.lamb@... [amelyachtowners]"
> >
> > Date: Friday, January
> > 30, 2015 1:26 am
> > Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht
> > Owners] Re: FW: inverters/chargers
> > To: "amelyachtowners@..."
> >
> >
> > > Dear Gary
> > >
> > > This discussion is
> > very interesting and I am now a lot clearer
> > > about the DC circuits and the bonding, an
> > area I am unclear
> > > about however is the
> > Earth lead on the AC circuit and the
> > >
> > bonding system.
> > >
> > >
> > In our Amel the 100Amp mastervolt was replaced by a
> > Victron
> > > Charger / inverter and an
> > Isolation transformer. As I recall,
> > >
> > the Earth in the boat AC system originates from the Neutral
> > on
> > > the boat side of the isolation
> > transformer. Logic would suggest
> > > to me
> > that the boat metal work should be connected to the boat
> > > AC earth so that the earth leakage circuit
> > breakers will work if
> > > an electrical
> > fault in an AC device rendered the casing of a
> > > device connected to boat AC Live. This
> > maybe particularly
> > > important as many
> > consumer devices do not have an earth wire -
> > > but is this consistent with your
> > statement? This would imply
> > > that in a
> > Charger / inverter that DC –ve should be independent
> > > but that AC Earth and Charge / inverter
> > casing should be
> > > connected to the boat
> > bonding?
> > >
> > >
> > Andrew
> > >
> > >
> > > Ronpische
> > > SM2k 472
> > > Canet en Roussillion, France
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > From:
> > amelyachtowners@...
> > >
> > [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of
> > amelliahona
> > > Sent: Thursday, January 29,
> > 2015 10:35 PM
> > > To:
> > amelyachtowners@...
> > >
> > Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: FW: inverters/chargers
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Dear Mark:
> > >
> > > Regarding a
> > charger/inverter GROUND and GROUNDING (see my prior
> > > email if you are confused on these terms,
> > they are definitely
> > > different). As I
> > understand your question, I think you have it
> > > backwards. Since a charger/inverter
> > isn't in contact with sea
> > > water,
> > both the grounding and ground lines would go to the
> > > battery DC negative (-ve or -) terminal.
> > The AC output side
> > > should be connected
> > via circuit protection including GFCI
> > >
> > (ground fault circuit interrupter) and the DC charging
> > circuits
> > > go to batteries as per the
> > manufacturers directions. It is my
> > >
> > opinion that the BONDING circuit (Amel yellow & green
> > wires)
> > > should NOT be attached to the
> > inverter charger.
> > >
> > >
> > Download the installation manual for anything you are
> > > considering installing and make sure you
> > thoroughly understand
> > > it before
> > buying/installing.
> > >
> > > All the best,
> > >
> > > Gary Silver
> > > s/v
> > Liahona SM 335
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > #yiv9023192123 #yiv9023192123 --
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: FW: inverters/chargers

eric freedman
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: FW: inverters/chargers

Mark Erdos
 

After giving this a lot of thought I have decided to remove the failing inverter/charger and reinstall a 30amp charger that was in this spot. I was pondering the question that Eric asked, why do I need 220 inverted AC power when under sail.

 

The previous owner replaced the 30 amp charger in the engine room with a charger/inverter (a replacement 30 amp charger was installed at the nav station). The best I can tell, he used the existing large gauge  battery cables to connect the inverter/charger. He used the circuit breaker that powered the 30 amp charger to power the inverter/charger. He ran the AC 220v outlets breaker to the inverter/charger. I plan to reverse this and go back to having the 30amp charger located in the engine room and controlled by the 220 breaker panel. I will need to connect the AC 220v outlets back to a power source somewhere. This is an area of the boat that I have not dug deeply into yet. I may need some help later.

 

Thanks to all who contributed!!!!!

 

On a side note, Cindy and I are pretty excited as we have sold our house. We are currently moving the remainder of our stuff into storage and will be away from Cream Puff for a couple of weeks. Time to go cruising!!!!!

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Super Maramu 2000

Hull #275

www.creampuff.us

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Amel's Bonding System

Beaute Olivier
 

Hello Dieter,

you will not find the copper strap for ballast bonding as your ballast will never be in touch with water. It isn't attached with bolts either. Your ballast is encapsuled in the polyester keel.
However, there is a grounding system that connects the engine/shaft/propeller, to the zincs on the rudder. And this is going through a copper braid that runs from the engine to the ruuder shaft in aft cabin.
The other items concerned are mainly the through hull fittings and seacocks.
The best way to know if there is a connection between the prop and the rudder zincs, is to measure the resistance between both, when the vessel is out of the water. resistance should be close to zero.

Best regards.

Olivier.


On Sunday, February 1, 2015 4:13 PM, "INUS - BUSCH inusbusch@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:


 
Hello,

sorry for another post about bonding:

From the postings so far I understood that the Amels have a "fully insulated two-wire d.c. system" with an "equipotential bonding conductor". I found these terms in the international standard ISO 10133 Small craft - Electrical systems - d.c. installations. And there is written:
"4.2 An equipotential bonding conductor, if fitted, shall be connected to the craft's main grounding/earthing point."

Is there any information where this "main grounding/earthing point" is found on a Sharki? I was looking and cannot find the metal bar in the bilge, which other Amel owners found in their bilge. Or does the Sharki does not have such a point?

Any help very appreciated.

Dieter
Amel Sharki #135, Fal-lera





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bowthruster on AMEL 54 suddenly stops; Propellers clear

Peter Forbes
 

Olivier,

Thank you - very interesting - is this easy to change or do you have to remove the Amel 54 from the water to change this?

Peter
Peter Forbes
0044 7836 209730
Carango  Sailing Ketch
Amel 54 #035
Gouvia Marina - CORFU, Greece

On 1 Feb 2015, at 19:52, Beaute Olivier atlanticyachtsurvey@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Good evening Martin,

there is a piece of plastic that connects the motor to the transmission shaft. This coupler is designed to break if, for instance, you catch a rope in yours props. That's the "weak" part of the system, designed on purpose.
Therefore, instead of breaking/damaging important parts, you only break this part.
You should ask AMEL la Rochelle and order that part for replacement.

Best regards.

Olivier


On Sunday, February 1, 2015 4:43 PM, "luvkante@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


 
Dear friends,

When I was manouevering last time, all of the sudden the bowthruster-propeller "disengaged".
I checked under water: both propellers are ok. No object inside. Both props turn (to) freely.

Most of the functions of the bowthruster are ok: it goes properly up and 
down and the electrical motor works to the right and the left.

BUT:  THERE IS NO MORE MECHANICAL CONNECTION BETWEEN THE ELECTRICAL MOTOR 
AND THE PROPELLER!

The motor runs at EXTREME HIGH RPM and quite loud because there is no more 
load. 

My question: CAN IT BE A COUPLING OR A GEAR WHICH BROKE?

I opened the bowthruster-box and at a first glance everything looked normal.




Thanks in advance for your support.

Martin
AMEL 54 #149 CHIARA






Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bowthruster on AMEL 54 suddenly stops; Propellers clear

Beaute Olivier
 

Good evening Martin,

there is a piece of plastic that connects the motor to the transmission shaft. This coupler is designed to break if, for instance, you catch a rope in yours props. That's the "weak" part of the system, designed on purpose.
Therefore, instead of breaking/damaging important parts, you only break this part.
You should ask AMEL la Rochelle and order that part for replacement.

Best regards.

Olivier


On Sunday, February 1, 2015 4:43 PM, "luvkante@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:


 
Dear friends,

When I was manouevering last time, all of the sudden the bowthruster-propeller "disengaged".
I checked under water: both propellers are ok. No object inside. Both props turn (to) freely.

Most of the functions of the bowthruster are ok: it goes properly up and 
down and the electrical motor works to the right and the left.

BUT:  THERE IS NO MORE MECHANICAL CONNECTION BETWEEN THE ELECTRICAL MOTOR
AND THE PROPELLER!

The motor runs at EXTREME HIGH RPM and quite loud because there is no more
load. 

My question: CAN IT BE A COUPLING OR A GEAR WHICH BROKE?

I opened the bowthruster-box and at a first glance everything looked normal.




Thanks in advance for your support.

Martin
AMEL 54 #149 CHIARA




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: FW: inverters/chargers

eric freedman