Date   

Re: Santorin ground strap

rossienio@...
 

Hi Craig, I could not pull the bilge pump, but I managed to left it enough to see the status of ground strap. Broken. But, to mount a new, I should also remove the FEIT bilge pump, And also I have in the engine room the FischerPanda generator that makes me the most difficult movements. Then I  thought about leaving  broken the ground strap and put, simply,2 zincs on the keel. As I said in the message 18939th divanz620. We will think some more. I hope you can understand my bad english. Regards. Enio


Re: Santorin ground strap

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Enio,
You were struggling to remove your bilge pump a few posts ago, and I gave you some suggestions.  Were you able to do that?  If so it should be fairly easy (but time consuming)  to replace the ground strap per Bill Rouse's suggestions - you do not really need a special tool - just a long extension (or several shorter ones) for your ratchet wrench.  If you are unable to do that, I should think a 9000 pound cast iron anode will last much longer than you and I will be posting here, since it would not be electrically connected to the rest of your boat and so will not be part of the galvanic protection system - it should be virtually inert. 
Sorry if I am not understanding fully your seemingly straightforward, albeit difficult and time consuming, repair job. Keep on keeping on and it will be done (properly) in no time!
Cheers,
Craig Briggs, SN#68 Sangaris


Re: Sailmaker measurements, original Maramu

Dave_Benjamin
 

Nathan,

There's two different rigs on the Maramu. You have the older Isomat masts on #29 and the later ones had the Nirvana all furling rigs. The Nirvana rigs are taller. I know this, having done sails for Bill's Maramu over in Richmond and a few others. I think the best source of those measurements is simply measuring the rig. Unfortunately when I built cruising sails for your boat, I didn't document official I, J, P, E, Py, and Ey since the boat wasn't being raced. Contrary to what many people assume, the luff of the main does not correlate to the "P" dimension of the boat. Nor does the foot coincide with E because a deduction is made for the luff hardware. 

Another issue on your boat is that Harken track. The main has very short girths because of the way that system pushes the luff back and the backstay crane being short. So if you really wanted to get some sail area in the main, I'd put some sort of backstay crane on that would allow the sail to be designed with 38% 1/4 girth and 65% mid-girth. 

Is your dad going to build some new inventory for you? 



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Powder Coating the Jib Furler , Source for new seals

Ann-Sofie Svanberg <kanalmamman@...>
 

We have been in contact with Amel, and there is no drawings of the swivel. But I am still looking for that swivel picture that was posted a couple of months ago where you could see the plastic things that are between the stay and the swivel. So you who posyed that can you please come back and let me know where in the Photo section I can find it.

Regards
Annsofie
S/Y Lady Annila. SM 232, 1998

Skickat från min iPad

4 nov 2014 kl. 10:17 skrev "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

Hi Armin,
My bearings were still like new, so I haven't looked into replacing them.
Kent


On Nov 4, 2014, at 3:57 AM, n4796p@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hallo Kent,

did you exchanche the bearings of the jib furler top swivel too. I have to refurbish this part too.
Does somebody have some drawings of the jib furler gear and the jib furler top swivel??

Best regards
Armin
SY ASHIA, SM2k, #357


Amel Sharki

thomasgeuens@...
 

Hello,
I'm looking for the original brochure of an Amel Sharki. I can't find it on the web, can anyone help me?

Thomas


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Powder Coating the Jib Furler , Source for new seals

karkauai
 

Hi Armin,
My bearings were still like new, so I haven't looked into replacing them.
Kent


On Nov 4, 2014, at 3:57 AM, n4796p@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hallo Kent,

did you exchanche the bearings of the jib furler top swivel too. I have to refurbish this part too.
Does somebody have some drawings of the jib furler gear and the jib furler top swivel??

Best regards
Armin
SY ASHIA, SM2k, #357


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] AW: [Amel] Osmosis protection

Herbert Lackner
 

Thanks Joel, I will wait for a week, organize  a moisture measurement and share the results then,

 

herbert

 

Von: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Gesendet: Dienstag, 4.
November 2014 12:08
An: amelyachtowners@...
Betreff: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] AW: [Amel] Osmosis protection

 

 

Yes, you have the proprietary Amel anti-osmosis barrier behind the gel coat. If your boat has been out of the water for days, use a moisture meter to sample the bottom and share the results with me. I can give you the best advice after....

Joel F. Potter

THE AMEL GUY

954 812 2485

iPhone 


On Nov 4, 2014, at 5:13 AM, "'Herbert Lackner' herbert@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Joel,    I hope that you are reading this and maybe have an answer   (according to Bill you may be the only one who knows J )

 

We are now removing all the old antifouling and would like to know if the Santorin (Nr. 120, built 1995) has the same “anti-osmotic-barrier” behind the gelcoat like the SM.

 

The information is important to me because I would like to know if I have to put (expensive) 5 layers of Gelshield200 on the Gelcoat or not (or maybe only one layer) before painting new antifouling. 

 

Thank you very much,

 

Herbert

KALI MERA, SN120, Kusadasi

 

 

Von: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] Im Auftrag von Bill & Judy Rouse
Gesendet: Dienstag, 15.
Oktober 2013 08:25
An:
amelyachtowners@...
Betreff: Re: [Amel] Osmosis protection

 

 

I removed all of the antifouling in 2011 on BeBe, Super Maramu, which was delivered new in Jan 2003. Gelcoat is, at best, about 90% vapor proof, so normally there is a need for a barrier coat, however, not so on all Super Maramus.  Amel used a proprietary anti-osmotic behind the gelcoat which is 99% vapor proof. I am not sure if your Santorin has this coating behind the gelcoat or if it will require an epoxy "barrier coat" over the gelcoat. I believe that this depends on when the Santorin was manufactured and the resins that were available at that time. The only person that I know that can tell you this is Joel Potter.

 

Normally yards remove the antifouling and down to the fiberglass by scraping it off, either by hand or with an electrical scraper...sometimes a grinder. If you are not doing this yourself, I recommend supervision 100% of the time as you do not want them to damage the gel coat. Any scratch deep enough "that can be filled in the gel coat" should be filled with proper epoxy, then faired smooth.

 

If you do require a barrier coat, I recommend International Paints Gel Seal 200.

 

When you ask for recommendations for antifouling, you will get many because it seems that the product someone uses, they tend to support...human nature, people do not like being wrong. I have a friend that will pay $1,000+ to have his boat hauled then shop antifouling by price sometimes paying as little as $100/gallon...I certainly do not recommend this.

 

I always recommend International Paints Micron 77 for the tropics...and I use it exclusively around the world. We used Micron 66 then Micron 77 when 77 replaced 66. It will cost more than most antifoulings, but the one thing that is always true with antifouling is that you will get what you pay for. If you use Micron 77, be sure to read the product information sheet completely...do not use thinners and do not apply the layers too thick or too thin...if using a roller, you can create bubbles in the paint by using the wrong roller or rolling too fast. Read the product sheet and be an expert before your painter starts. He might think that you are a pain, but it is your boat, not his! A Super Maramu requires 20 liters.

 

I can walk through a marina and pick our Micron 77 users...the hulls will be cleaner. You might try this, but only if you are in the tropics. Walk through a marina and ask the people with the cleanest hulls what they use, when they applied it and the last time the hull was cleaned...that is the way to get your best answer.

 

Hope this helps you.

 

Bill

BeBe, #387

 

On Tue, Oct 15, 2013 at 5:20 AM, <herbert@...> wrote:

 

dear all,

when we purchased the boat the surveyor recommended to renew the osmosis protection (put down all the old antifouling and paint it with epoxy...) when the boat is complete dry after winter storage. Has anyone experience with that? What material did you use, which tools...?

what antifouling is best for the amel in the carribean?

thx, herbert
santorin 120

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] AW: [Amel] Osmosis protection

amelforme
 

Yes, you have the proprietary Amel anti-osmosis barrier behind the gel coat. If your boat has been out of the water for days, use a moisture meter to sample the bottom and share the results with me. I can give you the best advice after....

Joel F. Potter
THE AMEL GUY
954 812 2485
iPhone 

On Nov 4, 2014, at 5:13 AM, "'Herbert Lackner' herbert@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Joel,    I hope that you are reading this and maybe have an answer   (according to Bill you may be the only one who knows J )

 

We are now removing all the old antifouling and would like to know if the Santorin (Nr. 120, built 1995) has the same “anti-osmotic-barrier” behind the gelcoat like the SM.

 

The information is important to me because I would like to know if I have to put (expensive) 5 layers of Gelshield200 on the Gelcoat or not (or maybe only one layer) before painting new antifouling. 

 

Thank you very much,

 

Herbert

KALI MERA, SN120, Kusadasi

 

 

Von: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] Im Auftrag von Bill & Judy Rouse
Gesendet: Dienstag, 15. Oktober 2013 08:25
An: amelyachtowners@...
Betreff: Re: [Amel] Osmosis protection

 

 

I removed all of the antifouling in 2011 on BeBe, Super Maramu, which was delivered new in Jan 2003. Gelcoat is, at best, about 90% vapor proof, so normally there is a need for a barrier coat, however, not so on all Super Maramus.  Amel used a proprietary anti-osmotic behind the gelcoat which is 99% vapor proof. I am not sure if your Santorin has this coating behind the gelcoat or if it will require an epoxy "barrier coat" over the gelcoat. I believe that this depends on when the Santorin was manufactured and the resins that were available at that time. The only person that I know that can tell you this is Joel Potter.

 

Normally yards remove the antifouling and down to the fiberglass by scraping it off, either by hand or with an electrical scraper...sometimes a grinder. If you are not doing this yourself, I recommend supervision 100% of the time as you do not want them to damage the gel coat. Any scratch deep enough "that can be filled in the gel coat" should be filled with proper epoxy, then faired smooth.

 

If you do require a barrier coat, I recommend International Paints Gel Seal 200.

 

When you ask for recommendations for antifouling, you will get many because it seems that the product someone uses, they tend to support...human nature, people do not like being wrong. I have a friend that will pay $1,000+ to have his boat hauled then shop antifouling by price sometimes paying as little as $100/gallon...I certainly do not recommend this.

 

I always recommend International Paints Micron 77 for the tropics...and I use it exclusively around the world. We used Micron 66 then Micron 77 when 77 replaced 66. It will cost more than most antifoulings, but the one thing that is always true with antifouling is that you will get what you pay for. If you use Micron 77, be sure to read the product information sheet completely...do not use thinners and do not apply the layers too thick or too thin...if using a roller, you can create bubbles in the paint by using the wrong roller or rolling too fast. Read the product sheet and be an expert before your painter starts. He might think that you are a pain, but it is your boat, not his! A Super Maramu requires 20 liters.

 

I can walk through a marina and pick our Micron 77 users...the hulls will be cleaner. You might try this, but only if you are in the tropics. Walk through a marina and ask the people with the cleanest hulls what they use, when they applied it and the last time the hull was cleaned...that is the way to get your best answer.

 

Hope this helps you.

 

Bill

BeBe, #387

 

On Tue, Oct 15, 2013 at 5:20 AM, <herbert@...> wrote:

 

dear all,

when we purchased the boat the surveyor recommended to renew the osmosis protection (put down all the old antifouling and paint it with epoxy...) when the boat is complete dry after winter storage. Has anyone experience with that? What material did you use, which tools...?

what antifouling is best for the amel in the carribean?

thx, herbert
santorin 120

 


Re: [Amel] Osmosis protection

Herbert Lackner
 

Hi Joel,    I hope that you are reading this and maybe have an answer   (according to Bill you may be the only one who knows J )

 

We are now removing all the old antifouling and would like to know if the Santorin (Nr. 120, built 1995) has the same “anti-osmotic-barrier” behind the gelcoat like the SM.

 

The information is important to me because I would like to know if I have to put (expensive) 5 layers of Gelshield200 on the Gelcoat or not (or maybe only one layer) before painting new antifouling. 

 

Thank you very much,

 

Herbert

KALI MERA, SN120, Kusadasi

 

 

Von: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] Im Auftrag von Bill & Judy Rouse
Gesendet: Dienstag, 15. Oktober 2013 08:25
An: amelyachtowners@...
Betreff: Re: [Amel] Osmosis protection

 

 

I removed all of the antifouling in 2011 on BeBe, Super Maramu, which was delivered new in Jan 2003. Gelcoat is, at best, about 90% vapor proof, so normally there is a need for a barrier coat, however, not so on all Super Maramus.  Amel used a proprietary anti-osmotic behind the gelcoat which is 99% vapor proof. I am not sure if your Santorin has this coating behind the gelcoat or if it will require an epoxy "barrier coat" over the gelcoat. I believe that this depends on when the Santorin was manufactured and the resins that were available at that time. The only person that I know that can tell you this is Joel Potter.

 

Normally yards remove the antifouling and down to the fiberglass by scraping it off, either by hand or with an electrical scraper...sometimes a grinder. If you are not doing this yourself, I recommend supervision 100% of the time as you do not want them to damage the gel coat. Any scratch deep enough "that can be filled in the gel coat" should be filled with proper epoxy, then faired smooth.

 

If you do require a barrier coat, I recommend International Paints Gel Seal 200.

 

When you ask for recommendations for antifouling, you will get many because it seems that the product someone uses, they tend to support...human nature, people do not like being wrong. I have a friend that will pay $1,000+ to have his boat hauled then shop antifouling by price sometimes paying as little as $100/gallon...I certainly do not recommend this.

 

I always recommend International Paints Micron 77 for the tropics...and I use it exclusively around the world. We used Micron 66 then Micron 77 when 77 replaced 66. It will cost more than most antifoulings, but the one thing that is always true with antifouling is that you will get what you pay for. If you use Micron 77, be sure to read the product information sheet completely...do not use thinners and do not apply the layers too thick or too thin...if using a roller, you can create bubbles in the paint by using the wrong roller or rolling too fast. Read the product sheet and be an expert before your painter starts. He might think that you are a pain, but it is your boat, not his! A Super Maramu requires 20 liters.

 

I can walk through a marina and pick our Micron 77 users...the hulls will be cleaner. You might try this, but only if you are in the tropics. Walk through a marina and ask the people with the cleanest hulls what they use, when they applied it and the last time the hull was cleaned...that is the way to get your best answer.

 

Hope this helps you.

 

Bill

BeBe, #387

 

On Tue, Oct 15, 2013 at 5:20 AM, <herbert@...> wrote:

 

dear all,

when we purchased the boat the surveyor recommended to renew the osmosis protection (put down all the old antifouling and paint it with epoxy...) when the boat is complete dry after winter storage. Has anyone experience with that? What material did you use, which tools...?

what antifouling is best for the amel in the carribean?

thx, herbert
santorin 120

 


Re: Powder Coating the Jib Furler , Source for new seals

n4796p@...
 

Hallo Kent,

did you exchanche the bearings of the jib furler top swivel too. I have to refurbish this part too.
Does somebody have some drawings of the jib furler gear and the jib furler top swivel??

Best regards
Armin
SY ASHIA, SM2k, #357


Re: Santorin ground strap

rossienio@...
 

Now, considering what says Alan, you have to see how connect zincs to the keel. By establishing a good contact, but without allow water to get in contact with cast iron. In order not to promote the oxidation of iron. I thought I'd make a hole that passes through the keel, thread and  insert a threaded rod of steel that protrudes enough to screw in zincs. Sealing with a resin the point where they exit from the bar. And complete the coverage of the keel epoxy leaving bare terminals only of the bar. Someone has better ideas? Good wind to all. Enio


Re: Santorin ground strap

Alan Leslie
 

I am thinking of putting a zinc on the keel and forgetting about that ground strap...one zinc the size of the rudder zincs would do...over zincing shouldn't be a problem as this zinc is only on the iron keel.

Another possible solution is to make a ground strap like the original but only as long as it needs to be out of the bilge water, cut off the old strap below all the connections and bolt it securely to the new ground strap.

Then in future you would only have to replace this new bit.

I'm liking the zinc on the keel idea more and more as a simpler solution and also easier to maintain.

Cheers
Alan
SV Elyse SM#437
New Zealand


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] worn out prop shaft brake pads

Alan Leslie
 

Please if you can, publish this info on the forum...it will be of great help to all of us sooner or later.

Cheers
Alan
SV Elyse SM#437
New Zealand


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] worn out prop shaft brake pads

kilkea2@...
 

Thanks for the information. If you do find the size of the new pads I'm sure it would help.

David

s/v Kilkea II

Hull #466


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] worn out prop shaft brake pads

drew.gaffney@...
 

Hi,

We had ours changed in Walvis Bay, Namibia last summer at about 2800hrs.  The brake was slipping anytime we sailed. I kluged a clap to hold it, until we got to the city.

A couple caveats.  We removed the pad holders: the pin is held with a snap ring top and bottom.  Take either one off and tap the pin out from the other direction.  Be careful not to lose springs, etc.

The replacement pads were too thick, so we had to specify the thickness we wanted.  The brake shop provided the exact requested pad thickness.  I'm off the boat and don't know the thickness.  Maybe someone else does, or you can just estimate.

Turn the engine on to get the caliper open; then you can slide the pins back without too much trouble.

REPLACE the SNAP RING's.  We simply replaced the old ones and discovered them broken on the way to St. Helena.  The pins had moved, but not completely released, so no harm done.  I was able to wire them, and they lasted until we got to Trinidad.

Drew

SY Revelation SM390

Chaguaramas, TT


Re: Santorin ground strap

rossienio@...
 

Hi may advisors. Yesterday, after a day of work in an unconfortable place, I finally managed to see the state of the ground strap of Earendil. Broken. Here is the reason for the galvanic corrosion of my keel!!!. But I also saw that it would be a bestial work be able to repalce the ground strap. Remove and re-install the bilge pump, build a special tool to unscrew the nut of the keel,  build a new ground stap, put in on the site, reconnect the wires under the insulation, etc.....But if I left the bonding well what it's like , and put a zinc on the keel, the job would be much easier, even for subsequent verifications. But what are the drawbacks? Taking care to cover well the bottom of the keel around the pin that held the zinc and taking account of over-zincing? Regards. Enio


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Amel Transmission & Maintenance in Ft Lauderdale?

jlm@jlmertz.fr
 

If You want help I can help you, in Cap d'Agde if you want ....
Jean Luc
CottonBay


Le 30/09/2014 15:50, Steve cptbiffi@... [amelyachtowners] a écrit :
 
Good afternoon, I do have same request but further EST, I'm based near La Spezia Italy, I did already bow thruster and engine (oil and fuel filter). It's time for the transmission but I'm not ready to do by my self. I'm starting to have some problem with elettronics as well like Interphase Eco. My SM is hull 185 October 97
Thanks for any recommended name 
Stefano Biffi
PS I already asked to Amel Hyeres, they told me:came here! 

Il giorno 30/set/2014, alle ore 15:26, "Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> ha scritto:

 


Good morning,

Does any one has recommendation for very experienced person or shipyard with the Amel Transmission on the SM2K in Fort Lauderdale?

I just need it to be serviced (changing the bague d'usure, seal, oil, etc.).

I have never done it myself, I would prefer pay and watch someone very familiar with this, rather that possibly make an error myself.

At the same time, will also have:

propeller rebuild,
antifouling,
Wax hull,
Bow thruster services (which I can do),
Bauer scuba compressor serviced,
water maker serviced,
Volvo engine check (Turbo issue)
grease forestay
Espar heater serviced
add a second freezer,

So any recommendations for these are welcome as well.

Thanks in advance, Alexandre
SM2K $289 NIKIMAT
Still in Nassau...



Powder Coating the Jib Furler , Source for new seals

karkauai
 

I finally got my freshly powder-coated jib furler back from painting.  The paint job looks great (but they painted the wrong part gray...I'll have the only Amel with a two-tone furler).  I'll report how the paint job is holding up.

When I started to put it back together, I found a lot of the powdery abrasive they use to blast the old paint off in every nook and cranny, and found it embedded in some grease that hadn't been removed.  Especially in the main gear housing there is an opening between the two large ball bearings that is very difficult to get to that was full of old grease with the abrasive in it.  I spent nearly 3 hours cleaning the housing completely to prevent any of this abrasive from getting into the new grease.  The final step was a soapy bath and blow-out with air compressor.

I purchased the new seals from TruSeals in Denver, CO.  Their phone is 303 292 1955.  Email Rob: info 'at' Truseals 'dot' com.  Here are the part numbers:  Specify Stainless Steel springs.
90 x 110 x 12TC NBR (Item 9011012TC) w/ SS Spring  $12.73ea.
55 x 75 x 10TC NBR (Item 557510TC) w/ SS Spring  $9.55ea.
40 x 52 x 07TC NBR (Item 405207TC) w/ SS Spring  $8.82ea.

The 40mm ID 3mm dia. O ring came from McMasterCarr.

I have 4 spares, so could send someone a set at cost if you need them.

I was unable to find a replacement for the large rubber seal between the motor housing and the gear housing, so cut a new one out of an old truck inner tube.

Pics after I get it remounted on Kristy.

Kent
SM 243
Kristy


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] worn out prop shaft brake pads

kilkea2@...
 

Thanks for the help. Now I know what the pads look like and how they fit but will let you know if it is difficult or easy. We should have no problem finding a brake fitter. We have 60000 miles on Kilkea II now with 4400 hours on the engine so we have got pretty good service on those pads. We just crossed a longitude that we were at in the Med in 2007 so have gone around the world that way and will cross one of our tracks in the Atlantic next spring/ 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] worn out prop shaft brake pads

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

I think the brake might have been adjusted too loose because 466 is about 2.5 years newer than BeBe which has about 30,000 miles and 3000 hours on the engine. My pads are still in great shape.

I am guessing here, but if the pads are loose enough that the shaft turns while under sail, then I believe that they will wear out quickly.

You can adjust the tension of the brake pads to the disk by adjusting the bolt on one end of the hydraulic cylinder.  The adjustment method is fairly intuitive.  Let me know if I can help you with that.

I feel fairly sure that you will find a brake pad re-liner in SA...let me know how that works for you. I am sure there are others here that would like to hear. Also, be sure to look at the photos to understand all the parts and especially the springs before you disassemble.  I have not done this before...it may be tricky.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
sent from my tablet

On Nov 2, 2014 8:47 PM, "kilkea2@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Thanks Bill and Judy. Sorry about the question but we have not been on the blog very often. We are a super maramu 2000 hull #466. We are now in Richards Bay South Africa. I will try to take the pads to a brake place here and if that does not work out will contact Amel and have them send the pads.