Date   

Re: Anchor sizing

Teun BAAS
 

Hi Bryce,

 

Yeah I am aware of the 60 days refund but my intention is to sail AUSTRALIAN waters for the season (or maybe 2 seasons) ūüėä I hear the WHITSUNDAYS are magnificent.

 

I could postpone buying the chain until I am ready to leave.

 

Best Regards Teun

 

A54 2009 #128

September 16, 2020 12:26:40

 

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Bryce Procter via groups.io
Sent: Monday, September 14, 2020 16:47
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Anchor sizing

 

Hi Tuen,

 

If you purchase the chain within 60 days of departure you should also be able to claim back the 10% GST.

 

Cheers

 

Bryce


Re: Changing the base of the WC on an older SM

Mark Erdos
 

I just recently did this job.

 

Jabsco claims in their literature the holes on the new part align with the holes on the older style base. They lied. The old style has 4 holes the new one has three holes. Also, be careful. They changed the base’s design and not the part number.

 

In my case, I did not find the backing plate extended to the area needed for the new bolt placements. This was very evident when drilling the new holes. I filled the old holes with epoxy (I color matched the brown).

 

I used stainless steel threaded coil inserts secured with resin for the new screw positions. Then screwed the bolts into the inserts.

 

 

 

4ZY16_AS01.jpg

 

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Robert Nilsen
Sent: Wednesday, September 16, 2020 2:03 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Changing the base of the WC on an older SM

 

Hi. 
I did this job last summer. 
On our boat there is a metal backing plate in the basemould. I just sealed the old holes and drilled new ones. These I threaded and just bolted the new toilet down.

Best regards 
Robert 
S/Y Silfrania 
SM #53 


Re: Changing the base of the WC on an older SM

Robert Nilsen
 

Hi. 
I did this job last summer. 
On our boat there is a metal backing plate in the basemould. I just sealed the old holes and drilled new ones. These I threaded and just bolted the new toilet down.

Best regards 
Robert 
S/Y Silfrania 
SM #53 


Re: Changing the base of the WC on an older SM

Aras Grinius
 

I had to change mine several years ago.  I took a piece of Starboard and mounted the WC to that, then tapped and mounted that to the original base.   It actually worked better as it raised the height a tad, making it more comfortable to sit on.  Just my 2 cents.

Aras
Sharki #163 1988



On Wed, Sep 16, 2020 at 7:32 AM michael winand via groups.io <mfw642000=yahoo.com.au@groups.io> wrote:
Hi  Ian. There is access via a small cover. You will need a ring spanner with tape to catch the nut from underneath the floor. 
This is on a sm251 
Regards Michael 


On Wed, 16 Sep 2020 at 8:00 pm, ianjenkins1946

 
Hi All,

 Some time back I wrote that the base of one of our WCs  ( Jabsco 37255 )was starting to crack. Unfortunately, the replacement base ( Part no.37004-1000 ) has its anchoring holes in different places that the original. This is a problem when you can't access the underneath of the fibreglass platform to which the base is bolted.
 The same guy, Neil, as mentioned in my previous email, has a solution which involves drilling a hole wide enough to get the bolt through and then to fix the bolt in place and fill the hole.  He will do the work this winter so I will report back on how it goes.

 For those in this area, my experience of Neil ( who  recently replaced the seals on the gearbox on the main and also stripped down and rebuilt the gearbox on the main outhaul ) is good. He works with FYS yacht services, owned by Christian Grunert, an Austrian, in Porto Helli. They are full of work. See www.franks-yachtstation.com 

 Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Kilada



--
Aras Grinius


Re: Changing the base of the WC on an older SM

michael winand
 

Hi  Ian. There is access via a small cover. You will need a ring spanner with tape to catch the nut from underneath the floor. 
This is on a sm251 
Regards Michael 


On Wed, 16 Sep 2020 at 8:00 pm, ianjenkins1946
<ianjudyjenkins@...> wrote:

 
Hi All,

 Some time back I wrote that the base of one of our WCs  ( Jabsco 37255 )was starting to crack. Unfortunately, the replacement base ( Part no.37004-1000 ) has its anchoring holes in different places that the original. This is a problem when you can't access the underneath of the fibreglass platform to which the base is bolted.
 The same guy, Neil, as mentioned in my previous email, has a solution which involves drilling a hole wide enough to get the bolt through and then to fix the bolt in place and fill the hole.  He will do the work this winter so I will report back on how it goes.

 For those in this area, my experience of Neil ( who  recently replaced the seals on the gearbox on the main and also stripped down and rebuilt the gearbox on the main outhaul ) is good. He works with FYS yacht services, owned by Christian Grunert, an Austrian, in Porto Helli. They are full of work. See www.franks-yachtstation.com 

 Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Kilada


Fuel Line

Mark Barter
 

Could someone please tell me the external diameter of the copper fuel line. It will obviously be the same as the ID of the fuel hoses.

I just can't remember it.

Many thanks
--
Mark & Nicky Barter
S/V Nunky
SM 110


Changing the base of the WC on an older SM

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 


 
Hi All,

 Some time back I wrote that the base of one of our WCs  ( Jabsco 37255 )was starting to crack. Unfortunately, the replacement base ( Part no.37004-1000 ) has its anchoring holes in different places that the original. This is a problem when you can't access the underneath of the fibreglass platform to which the base is bolted.
 The same guy, Neil, as mentioned in my previous email, has a solution which involves drilling a hole wide enough to get the bolt through and then to fix the bolt in place and fill the hole.  He will do the work this winter so I will report back on how it goes.

 For those in this area, my experience of Neil ( who  recently replaced the seals on the gearbox on the main and also stripped down and rebuilt the gearbox on the main outhaul ) is good. He works with FYS yacht services, owned by Christian Grunert, an Austrian, in Porto Helli. They are full of work. See www.franks-yachtstation.com 

 Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Kilada


Bow thruster seal for SM

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 


 
Hi all,

 Our bow thruster was gently losing oil. Though we rarely use it, as we like to anchor everywhere, it is 20 years old and I suspect that there is a shallow groove where the seal sits on the shaft. I have now switched from a 30mm inside diameter to a 29mm so this may do the trick.
 Neil, a mechanic in this   part of the world ( Kilada, Greece ) has pointed out that if the 29mm still leaks I should try a particular SKF seal which  ( in Europe) is only available from SKF in Scotland  and which has twin seals, the idea being that each of the two seals will sit just to the side of the groove. I will try that if the leak continues before fitting the new shaft which we have on board.

On a separate note, Neil built his own steel 42 ft boat 20 years ago. He tried to sell pre-Covid. During lockdown he had about 3 hits a day to his very detailed website. On 17th July the UK allowed flights to Greece. The hits on his website immediately went to 600 ( that's not a typo ! ) per day and he sold for the asking price, sight unseen to a guy who is now thrilled with it.

It seems that Covid might be doing wonders for boat sales. 

 Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Kilada ( waiting to launch, but they are predicting gusts of 50+ for Friday night so....)


Re: SEAFLO Marine Air Conditioning Seawater Circulation AC Pump 500GPH 220V eBay

Alan Leslie
 

Our Calpeda died and we replaced it with the March AC-5C-MD, after assessing the flow requirements.
good thing is that now we don't have the Amel bonding connection connected to the AC ground anymore, AND no more screwdriver poking to get the pump to run (always thought that was a bit out there)
The pump works fine and I agree with Mark, the bolts and the casing on the motor are corroding, but I think a regular cleanup and Corrosion X is the way to deal with it.
We don;t use the A/C that much anyway and rarely with the 3 units all at the same time.
We replaced our aft cabin Climma A/C (it had leaks and electrical faults and wasn't considered worth trying to repair) with a Mermaid reverse cycle unit which works really well and has a remote control that allows temperature setting in both heating and cooling modes, like a home A/C.
Just wish I could get to Elyse to appreciate it !

Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437 .... stuck in Opua, NZ .....me, stuck in Australia !


Changing the base of the WC on an older SM

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Hi All,

 Some time back I wrote that the base of one of our WCs  ( Jabsco 37255 )was starting to crack. Unfortunately, the replacement base ( Part no.37004-1000 ) has its anchoring holes in different places that the original. This is a problem when you can't access the underneath of the fibreglass platform to which the base is bolted.
 The same guy, Neil, as mentioned in my previous email, has a solution which involves drilling a hole wide enough to get the bolt through and then to fix the bolt in place and fill the hole.  He will do the work this winter so I will report back on how it goes.

 For those in this area, my experience of Neil ( who  recently replaced the seals on the gearbox on the main and also stripped down and rebuilt the gearbox on the main outhaul ) is good. He works with FYS yacht services, owned by Christian Grunert, an Austrian, in Porto Helli. They are full of work. See www.franks-yachtstation.com 

 Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Kilada


Bow thruster seal for SM

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Hi all,

 Our bow thruster was gently losing oil. Though we rarely use it, as we like to anchor everywhere, it is 20 years old and I suspect that there is a shallow groove where the seal sits on the shaft. I have now switched from a 30mm inside diameter to a 29mm so this may do the trick.
 Neil, a mechanic in this   part of the world ( Kilada, Greece ) has pointed out that if the 29mm still leaks I should try a particular SKF seal which  ( in Europe) is only available from SKF in Scotland  and which has twin seals, the idea being that each of the two seals will sit just to the side of the groove. I will try that if the leak continues before fitting the new shaft which we have on board.

On a separate note, Neil built his own steel 42 ft boat 20 years ago. He tried to sell pre-Covid. During lockdown he had about 3 hits a day to his very detailed website. On 17th July the UK allowed flights to Greece. The hits on his website immediately went to 600 ( that's not a typo ! ) per day and he sold for the asking price, sight unseen to a guy who is now thrilled with it.

It seems that Covid might be doing wonders for boat sales. 

 Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Kilada ( waiting to launch, but they are predicting gusts of 50+ for Friday night so....)


Re: Raymarine s3g ast / st7002 / linear autopilot failure

Scott SV Tengah
 

It turns out the problem was carbon buildup on the brushes. We have put 20k nm and I am guessing the previous owners logged at least 10k nm on the unit.

Anyone have any luck finding replacement brushes for Raymarine Type 2 linear drive?

My understanding is that the brushes are: Morganite Electrical Carbon 6x10x20mm, grade CM9/M50-5113.  Or for those on imperial...0.24x0.39x0.79inches. I believe that's for the 12v model, but perhaps the brushes are the same? 
--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: Mango fuel filter question

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Arlo,
My two cents.

If I recall correctly, your original post said you were simply wanting to do routine maintenance of changing the fuel filter and you wondered if the water separator was another filter (it is not).  You did not mention having had any problems. If so, why complicate things by adding another (redundant) filter and a gauge (or another pump for priming or even a fuel polishing system)? 

Seems you might just follow the "kiss" principle, clean out the water separator, change the primary filter, and be happy. Of course, you can do anything you choose but, frankly, I see no particular advantage to complicating what Amel originally installed.
--
Cheers, Craig - SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL


Re: Onan MDKAL Generator Fuel Solenoid SM2000

Germain Jean-Pierre
 

Hello Mike and Jose,

The PO was wrong. My MDKAL starts immediately without any preheat.

Find a Kubota dealer who has a roving mechanic...

Good luck

Jean-Pierre Germain, Eleuthera, SM007, NZ

On 15/09/2020, at 7:13 AM, Jose Venegas via groups.io <josegvenegas=icloud.com@groups.io> wrote:

ÔĽŅHi Mike,
When I bought the boat the previous owner told me that the generator needed to be preheated for at least 20 seconds. I do that every time and it starts every time. I hope this helps you.
Hi Mike,
When I bought the boat the previous owner told me that the generator needed to be preheated for at least 20 seconds. I do that every time and it starts every time. I hope this helps you.



Re: SEAFLO Marine Air Conditioning Seawater Circulation AC Pump 500GPH 220V eBay

Mark Erdos
 

I replace the Caleda pump about 5 years ago based on a recommendation by Coastal Climate Control (the US Climma distributor). This is the pump I have:

 

https://www.marchpump.com/pump/te-5-5c-md-13-phase-mag-drive-pump/

 

march-pump-te-5.5c-md-900x1007.jpg

 

It is rated at 1620 GPH 50htz and 1800 GPH 60htz, ample to run all three ACunits in series.

 

The cost of the pump is about US$600. They are sold all over the world as are replacement parts. I prefer this design over the Calpeda because it doesn’t have the expensive bronze impeller and there is no metal in contact with sea-water. The March pump has a magnetic drive and plastic (polypropylene) head.  However, the pump hasn’t fared well and the exterior screws on the pump end (not the impeller housing) have rusted a little bit as did the capacitor cover (since changed on the newer models). I have to treat the pump with some Corrosion X periodically. This seems to work well. Perhaps the newer ones are more engine-room compatible.

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 


Re: Mango fuel filter question

Arlo
 

Once again, this group  is awesome, and I appreciate the quick info. I will check it tomorrow and see how the fuel looks. So I only have 1 spin on filter on the engine then. So this begs the question of adding a Racor 500FG so that I can have a primary filter on the bulkhead with a visual on fuel quality and a fuel vacuum gauge as an indicator of filter condition before it gets to the secondary filter on the engine. I had this setup on my previous Ford Lehman and it worked like a champ. I also had an inline electric fuel pump that I used to prime the Racor when changing filters.

Any thoughts? 


Re: SEAFLO Marine Air Conditioning Seawater Circulation AC Pump 500GPH 220V eBay

Mark Erdos
 

Gotta love Ali-Express ‚Äď Only $180!

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/i/4000116905213.html

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 


Re: Onan MDKAL Generator Fuel Solenoid SM2000

 

Mike,

Is it possible that you are talking about the Onan Governor, Actuator (new part #306‚ąí5006‚ąí01 old#151-0779-01),¬†which increases rpm under load and shuts off when you press stop?

If you are, it is possible that the governor is bad, or the control board is bad.

I am not sure how to test other than to attempt to check voltage changes when pressing start or stop. If there are voltage changes the control board (PCB) is probably OK. There may be a fuse on the control board or in-line with the governor if you get no voltage. You should also see if the gov actuator opens up more fuel when load is added...if not, there is a problem with the actuator or PCB. The purpose of the Gov. Actuator is to maintain constant RPM, regardless of the load. This maintains a constant 50htz frequency.

I carried a spare but never had to use it.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Mon, Sep 14, 2020 at 10:29 AM Mike Ondra via groups.io <mdondra=verizon.net@groups.io> wrote:

Hello fellow Amelians,

Having an issue with the genset on SM2000.

After no use for 3 months, it would crank but not start. After 8 sec preheat, pressing START, engine cranks fine, but no ignition. Visual check confirms that the fuel shutoff solenoid is not moving to open position when START is engaged. When manually pushing the solenoid to open valve, starts fine. The valve remained open after release and ran fine for several hours. Normal shutdown. Then, to test, did the same procedure. Would not start until manual push on solenoid, but now does not stay in the open position.

This generator has only the cutoff switches for temperature and oil pressure, no gauges.

Perhaps someone has a quick explanation for the above from experience.

 

In the meantime, I am trying to figure out the control diagram to assist in troubleshooting. Here’s my logic so far.

The Start/Stop toggle switch functionally cuts off the fuel when pressed to the STOP position. In the START position it must energize the SOLENOID to open the fuel valve. The toggle then ‚Äúdefaults‚ÄĚ to a neutral position in the RUN mode, so the SOLENOID must remain energized, but not through the switch or it would be continually energize even when off.

Furthermore, to protect the running engine, a fault in either oil pressure or engine temperature must de-energize the SOLENOID to cut off fuel. The pressure and temperature ‚Äúsenders‚ÄĚ lead to a ‚Äú2 pole double throw‚ÄĚ switch which I presume has the capacity to de-energize the fuel cutoff solenoid when the ‚Äúsender information‚ÄĚ does not meet spec.

What I haven’t been able to ferret out is if there is an interface between the START function and the safety cutoff function.

Pressing the START should power the solenoid. Does the safety part of the system need to be ‚Äúhappy‚ÄĚ during the start, or is it completely independent and takes over powering the solenoid only AFTER the engine starts?

Will continue the research, but would appreciate insight from other and  would like to know if my assumptions above may be heading me in the wrong direction.

Thanks

Mike Ondra

Aletes SM#240 Rock Hall, MD

 

 

 


Re: SEAFLO Marine Air Conditioning Seawater Circulation AC Pump 500GPH 220V eBay

 

When you are doing your calculations, don't forget the ACs are in series. This requires up to 50% more flow. Calpeda no longer offers a BCM20/E, they currently offer a Calpeda BCM22/1/A-R and it is 50/60Hz. It moves 1,700GPH. It is currently in stock at Caraibes Refrigeration in Martinique. This is the pump I recommend above all others.
image.png

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Tue, Sep 15, 2020 at 3:03 PM Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:
Hi Nick,

The original pump in our boat was an Calpeda pump (M67270U). That one was leaking badly so I replaced it with a M67270J: https://penguinfrigo.co.uk/product/m67270-sea-water-pump-50-l-m-at-10m-head-ac-capacity-60000-btu/
That is the same pump but then specified for both 50 and 60Hz. The article numbers are from Veco/Climma. Calpeda calls the pump BCM-20A.

Cheers,

Arno


Re: Raymarine s3g ast / st7002 / linear autopilot failure

 

I had a failure of the Raymarine TYPE 2 Linear drive. It was the clutch that failed. The message was not drivestop.
From the SG# Manual - DRIVESTOP  error:
The autopilot is unable to turn the rudder (this occurs if the weather load on helm is too high, or if the rudder position sensor has passed beyond the preset rudder limits or rudder end-stops). Check drive and rudder position sensor. Check the drive wiring is correctly connected.

That voltage for the motor output is low, but maybe it is low because of resistance in the motor...check with the motor disconnected. 

Maybe a failure of the SG3.

Do you have a spare? Dan Gerhardt <C250@...> can repair SG3.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Tue, Sep 15, 2020 at 3:13 PM Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:
Hi all, 
 
We just had our raymarine linear autopilot with the sg3 ast computer fail after working flawlessly for our entire ownership. 
 
The error on the head unit raymarine st7002 says "Drive stopped". 
 
The sg3 ast supply is at 26.8v and the clutch is correctly set at 12v and gets around 12.48v
 
What I do notice is that the voltage at the computer motor output and consequently the linear drive is only 13.4v
 
I checked all raymarine computer fuses and cleaned the fuse contacts to no avail. 
 
Has anyone experienced a failure like this or have any idea what I should check? 
 
 
--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

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