Date   

Manual Bilge Pump

Cathy & Guillaume
 

Recently, as we have been using the manual bilge pump quite a lot due to a problem on the AMFA electric pump, I noticed a leak on that pump, and getting worse. Grey water coming from the ceiling of the engine room...! Has anyone had that pump leak? What is the brand/model (Henderson, Whale,?) and any idea where to find spare parts or replacement?

Many thanks in advance!

Guillaume
Carpathia III, SM2K #293
Now in Athens 


Re: Chesapeake Surveyor

Alan Grayson
 

Sorry about that mate, he did mention retiring but I did not realize it was so soon. 
Where abouts in Deltaville are you and when will you be heading south?
Alan Grayson


From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Ian Townsend <smlocalola@...>
Sent: Sunday, 20 September 2020 6:54 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Chesapeake Surveyor
 
Hi Alan. Apparently Mike is retiring in a couple weeks so we won’t be able to use him. Hope you, Laura and Ora Pai are well. 

Ian & Margaret
Loca Lola II
SM153

On Sep 20, 2020, at 10:39 AM, Alan Grayson <bazgrayson@...> wrote:


Hi Ian, hope you guys are doing well, we just got an insurance survey from Mike Previti based out of Solomon's. Very happy with the results.
His number +1 410-610-8761
Regards
Alan Grayson
SM 406 Ora Pai
Annapolis

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Ian Townsend <smlocalola@...>
Sent: Saturday, 19 September 2020 11:27 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Chesapeake Surveyor
 

Looking for a surveyor in the vicinity of Deltaville, VA for an insurance valuation. Any suggestions.contact details?

Ian
SM153
Loca Lola II


Re: Loss of drive on my Santorin

Brent Cameron
 

I was pretty sure it had to be the cable. Glad you didn’t have to go into the water to sort it. Good luck!  

Brent

On Sep 21, 2020, 5:05 AM -0400, Grant Starling via groups.io <grantstarling@...>, wrote:
Ok, so I think I have got to the bottom of the issue.  It’s the cable adjustment.  Seems obvious now.  I disconnected the cable and shifted the box by hand, loads of drive.  So I am going to have to order and fit a new shifter cable and the original style terminator as I had to cut this cable down slightly to fit a non-standard terminator which is now where I realise the whole problem started.  Basically stick to the original terminator fitting when replacing cables...

I will confirm finally once fitted and fully sorted.  Grant

--
Brent Cameron

Future Amel Owner & Amel Owner Registry Moderator

Oro-Medonte, Ontario, Canada


locked Re: Batteries starting to get weak - MMM - What to do -

Denis Foster
 

Hello,

During research I found this particular cell balancing technique of FLASH Battery in Italy. Seems to have a lot of industrial applications/

What do you think of this .

Regards

Denis
 
 
 
 

FLASH BALANCING SYSTEM

 
 
 
 
 
 

The exclusive Flash Battery electronic balancing system is called the Flash Balancing System.

Traditional balancing systems apply resistance to the cells with the greatest charge in an attempt to “lower” them to the level of the lowest cell.

Although it’s a simple and economical method, it’s also extremely slow: 4 to 8 hours on average are required for balancing alone (in addition to the earlier charging step).

OUR FLASH BALANCING SYSTEM OFFERS MUCH HIGHER BALANCING POWER THAT IS APPLIED NOT ONLY AT THE END OF THE CYCLE, BUT ALSO ACTIVELY DURING DISCHARGE

This results in 20 times faster balancing without increasing overall recharge time to a significant extent.

Traditional balancing systems require a much longer time, so when they’re interrupted because the battery needs to be used, the result is a gradual reduction in available energy over time: vehicles and machines thus lose range at every cycle.

THE ULTRA-FAST BALANCING TIME OFFERED BY THE FLASH BALANCING SYSTEM DURING BOTH CHARGING AND DISCHARGING ELIMINATES THIS PROBLEM AND MAXIMISES RANGE.

If unexpected repairs are need, the Flash Balancing System makes it possible to add or replace cells throughout the life of the battery, which overcomes the limits of traditional systems in keeping the higher and lower-performing cells balanced.


Re: Loss of drive on my Santorin

Grant Starling
 

Ok, so I think I have got to the bottom of the issue.  It’s the cable adjustment.  Seems obvious now.  I disconnected the cable and shifted the box by hand, loads of drive.  So I am going to have to order and fit a new shifter cable and the original style terminator as I had to cut this cable down slightly to fit a non-standard terminator which is now where I realise the whole problem started.  Basically stick to the original terminator fitting when replacing cables...

I will confirm finally once fitted and fully sorted.  Grant


Re: Chesapeake Surveyor

Mark Garver
 

Try Edward Harbour, we used him when we were buying our SM a few years ago and he was really good.

HARBOUR MARINE, LLC
217 Silver Maple Drive
Chesapeake, Virginia 23322
(757) 477-2532

Best,

Mark
S/V It’s Good
Gloucester Point, VA

On Sep 20, 2020, at 1:54 PM, Ian Townsend <smlocalola@...> wrote:

Hi Alan. Apparently Mike is retiring in a couple weeks so we won’t be able to use him. Hope you, Laura and Ora Pai are well. 

Ian & Margaret
Loca Lola II
SM153

On Sep 20, 2020, at 10:39 AM, Alan Grayson <bazgrayson@...> wrote:


Hi Ian, hope you guys are doing well, we just got an insurance survey from Mike Previti based out of Solomon's. Very happy with the results.
His number +1 410-610-8761
Regards
Alan Grayson
SM 406 Ora Pai
Annapolis

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Ian Townsend <smlocalola@...>
Sent: Saturday, 19 September 2020 11:27 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Chesapeake Surveyor
 

Looking for a surveyor in the vicinity of Deltaville, VA for an insurance valuation. Any suggestions.contact details?

Ian
SM153
Loca Lola II



Re: deck leak

James Alton
 

Bill and Karen,

    You know your stuff Bill, thanks for the alert on the exposed balsa core.  When it comes to balsa core, prevention of damage is certainly far preferable to replacement!  End grain balsa is a fantastic core material but balsa wood is considered “perishable” as compared to more durable species of wood.  Keep it dry and it can last almost forever but if it stays wet for long it can rot pretty quickly unfortunately. 

    I am not sure if my Maramu has the same exposed core issue in your alert but I would like to investigate and if so to seal it preemptively before damage occurs.  Can you tell me what has to be removed to inspect the area in question?  

Best of luck with the fishing and keep having fun you two!

James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220


On Sep 20, 2020, at 8:41 PM, Karen Smith via groups.io <karenharmonie@...> wrote:

Hello Amelians,

Here are our thoughts about this deck leak!

Any deck leak, no matter how small, in the main cabin of a Super Maramu is a serious issue that needs to be addressed RIGHT AWAY.  
This is the voice of painful experience. A TINY little salt line was all that alerted us to one of the biggest jobs we have had to do to our boat.

Here is why...

From the aft edge of the hatch in the main saloon forward, the deck is pretty standard balsa cored deck. 
Right behind the hatch, the deck surface rises about 3 inches, while the cabin ceiling height does not change. 
 
The cabin ceiling here is thin (4-6mm plywood) and there is an empty space between the cabin ceiling and the structural underside of the deck. 
If there is ANY leak into this space, the water is free to roll around, and will find a place to drip down probably quite remote from the actual source.

What makes this situation so serious, is the back edge of the balsa core on the forward deck is not sealed, and is exposed into this space. It will soak up that water, and rot.  This is a big expensive repair to do right.  

Leaks into this space can come from the traveler, but more likely is from the hatch in the main cabin.  

There is a hardwood frame around the hatch opening, and the hatch frame is screwed into this with wood screws.  
 A lot of force is applied to the screws that secure the hinge side of the frame.  
If one of these starts to leak, the wood saturates, and water is then deposited into that empty space between the sailing and the deck, and problems start. 

Karen Smith & Bill Kinney
SM #160
Annapolis, MD

<IMG_0080.PNG>


Re: deck leak

Karen Smith
 

Hello Amelians,

Here are our thoughts about this deck leak!

Any deck leak, no matter how small, in the main cabin of a Super Maramu is a serious issue that needs to be addressed RIGHT AWAY.  
This is the voice of painful experience. A TINY little salt line was all that alerted us to one of the biggest jobs we have had to do to our boat.

Here is why...

From the aft edge of the hatch in the main saloon forward, the deck is pretty standard balsa cored deck. 
Right behind the hatch, the deck surface rises about 3 inches, while the cabin ceiling height does not change. 
 
The cabin ceiling here is thin (4-6mm plywood) and there is an empty space between the cabin ceiling and the structural underside of the deck. 
If there is ANY leak into this space, the water is free to roll around, and will find a place to drip down probably quite remote from the actual source.

What makes this situation so serious, is the back edge of the balsa core on the forward deck is not sealed, and is exposed into this space. It will soak up that water, and rot.  This is a big expensive repair to do right.  

Leaks into this space can come from the traveler, but more likely is from the hatch in the main cabin.  

There is a hardwood frame around the hatch opening, and the hatch frame is screwed into this with wood screws.  
 A lot of force is applied to the screws that secure the hinge side of the frame.  
If one of these starts to leak, the wood saturates, and water is then deposited into that empty space between the sailing and the deck, and problems start. 

Karen Smith & Bill Kinney
SM #160
Annapolis, MD


Re: Bowthruster motor switch

 

I believe you had to do what we did when we ran into this problem.

Did you use a piece of pipe to put pressure on with the puller to press the shaft tube out of the bottom motor plate mount?

Pipe circled in green between puller and thruster tube:
image.png

Where to place pipe to use a puller to press the bow thruster shaft tube out of the bottom motor mounting plate:
image.png
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sun, Sep 20, 2020 at 6:06 PM Peter Tiner <peter.tiner@...> wrote:

New Bowthruster motor
So, finally we managed to get the bowthruster apart. And for all, finding out why we couldn’t get the driveshaft down to it’s original position, ie some 20 mm lower.

We had a big issue with getting the flange loose from the driveshaft, finally we used a puller and the key was to put pressure on to the bearing and not to the driveshaft itself.

Once the flange was gone we could get the gearbox housing apart and could see why we couldn’t get the driveshaft all the way down to it’s original position.

As expected the sleeve with keyway had moved and the keys were not in place.

Hope this can help someone.

I´m attaching some pics and if someone is interested I have more.   

\Peter sy Maiken A54 #52

 

 


Re: Bowthruster motor switch

Peter Tiner
 

New Bowthruster motor
So, finally we managed to get the bowthruster apart. And for all, finding out why we couldn’t get the driveshaft down to it’s original position, ie some 20 mm lower.

We had a big issue with getting the flange loose from the driveshaft, finally we used a puller and the key was to put pressure on to the bearing and not to the driveshaft itself.

Once the flange was gone we could get the gearbox housing apart and could see why we couldn’t get the driveshaft all the way down to it’s original position.

As expected the sleeve with keyway had moved and the keys were not in place.

Hope this can help someone.

I´m attaching some pics and if someone is interested I have more.   

\Peter sy Maiken A54 #52

 

 


Eno 4 burner Stove grate and standoffs

eric freedman
 

We have had a perpetual problem trying different methods of retaining the grate above the burners. We have the stove that came with the deluxe package on our SM2000. The grate does not stay in place . The plastic standoffs are worn and I wonder if anyone has had new ones fabricated out of stainless.  The other problem we have is that a frying pan will slip under the bar on the front of the stove. We have fabricated a piece of 1/2 inch dowel rod that is suspended from the front bar by cup hooks and held in place by seizing wire. Our solution is rather amateurish looking. Any better ideas?

Fair Winds,

Eric SM 376 Kimberlite


Re: Chesapeake Surveyor

Ian Townsend
 

Hi Alan. Apparently Mike is retiring in a couple weeks so we won’t be able to use him. Hope you, Laura and Ora Pai are well. 

Ian & Margaret
Loca Lola II
SM153

On Sep 20, 2020, at 10:39 AM, Alan Grayson <bazgrayson@...> wrote:


Hi Ian, hope you guys are doing well, we just got an insurance survey from Mike Previti based out of Solomon's. Very happy with the results.
His number +1 410-610-8761
Regards
Alan Grayson
SM 406 Ora Pai
Annapolis

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Ian Townsend <smlocalola@...>
Sent: Saturday, 19 September 2020 11:27 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Chesapeake Surveyor
 

Looking for a surveyor in the vicinity of Deltaville, VA for an insurance valuation. Any suggestions.contact details?

Ian
SM153
Loca Lola II


locked Re: Batteries starting to get weak - MMM - What to do -

Scott SV Tengah
 

Joerg,

As I mentioned before, I believe, it is recommended (and I do) charge to full once a month. That resets the battery monitor to 100% and also balances the batteries since for every battery I know, balancing only occurs when nearly full. That has to do with the very flat voltage vs. SOC curve. There's bottom balancing, too, but that's beyond my comfort level.

There is a significant difference between charging full once a month and keeping it full. The former is recommended, the latter is generally accepted to be detrimental with no known benefits. 

--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


locked Re: Batteries starting to get weak - MMM - What to do -

Joerg Esdorn
 

An interesting tidbit from the manual for my MV batteries. One of the „events“ causing an alarm on the Masterbus system is that the batteries HAVE NOT been fully charged for a period - default 31 days:  „ Last time fully charged serves as an event source. To prevent damage the batteries must be charged to the full 100% regularly. It is a common misconception that Lithium- Ion batteries should not be fully charged.“   


Joerg Esdorn
Amel 55 #53 Kincsem
Vigo, Spain


Re: Chesapeake Surveyor

Alan Grayson
 

Hi Ian, hope you guys are doing well, we just got an insurance survey from Mike Previti based out of Solomon's. Very happy with the results.
His number +1 410-610-8761
Regards
Alan Grayson
SM 406 Ora Pai
Annapolis


From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Ian Townsend <smlocalola@...>
Sent: Saturday, 19 September 2020 11:27 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Chesapeake Surveyor
 

Looking for a surveyor in the vicinity of Deltaville, VA for an insurance valuation. Any suggestions.contact details?

Ian
SM153
Loca Lola II


Re: Wind Vane Autopilot

Ian Park
 

I had a hydrovane on my Santorin. It was there when I bought it.  It worked well most of the time, but on occasions (especially downwind in a blow) it would veer off course badly and I would have to free the wheel to manually steer back. Also when we encountered sargasso weed crossing the Atlantic the vertical rudder collected the weed and could not work .
removing the rudder is awkward, but putting it on at sea even in light swell is very difficult. You do need a system for locking the steering wheel.

I have since removed it and sold it. On removal the gel coat on the stern has been worn away badly, and the holes elongated. I did have to tighten the six securing bolts on occasion. I think it would be preferable to add extra layers of glass inside the lazarette as well as the wooden supports on the outside. I did also change the penny washers for stainless steel backing plates. The lazarette on the Sn and I believe the SM is not the main stern bulkhead (its the bulkhead between the lazarette and the aft cabin). It seems to be a lighter build than the rest of the boat. It is also why it is recommended not to over tighten the back stays on the mizzen, other wise you will get hairline fractures where they are bolted on the stern.  I am happy with the prop shaft alternator which keeps the fridge, autopilot and instruments running without any battery drain. I carry a spare type 2 rotary drive which takes 10 minutes to swap over. I also have 200watts of solar panel on the aft rails which can be tilted towards the sun. I have never had my batteries drop below a 90% charge, and then only at anchor. 

But - I have not had a lightening strike. 






 


Re: Anchor sizing

VICTOR MOLERO
 

Thank you so much, Nick and Jean Pierre. Your messages are really clarifying. I very much appreciate the valuable information. 
I'll request a quotation to Ultra and Cromox, and see if I survive the impact :-).
Best
Victor


Re: Bilge Tube Float Switch

eric freedman
 

Gary,
My switch from the factory was originally an all all plastic bat. No copper.
That must have been from the PO.
Fair Winds,
Eric

On September 19, 2020 at 1:25 AM Gary Wells <gary@...> wrote:

I know this was addressed before, but searching through the earlier posts I didn't run across the "answer" I was looking for.

 

This morning the bilge pump did not come on and while doing some laundry I got a high water alarm.  It only took a minute of troubleshooting to discover that the switch attached to the bilge tube float was dead.  Not a huge issue, just have to run the bilge pump manually whenever necessary ... which means keeping a close eye on it.

 

So, I don't have any pictures so will try hard to describe the assembly I have:  The switch looks to be a standard SPST (on/off) toggle that Amel (or a previous owner) has modified to have an extra long handle, or "bat".  The lengthening is accomplished with a sturdy piece of copper, apparently a tube, about 50cm long which is drilled on one end for the control strings and attached to the switch via a slip-fit which has been soldered or brazed into position.  At any rate, I could not get the "bat" apart from the switch.  

I did a lot of internet search and a couple of hours cruising Home Depot, the auto parts stores and Ace Hardware and couldn't really come up with anything I thought would be a viable solution.  There are automotive switches with longer toggles, maybe 25cm at most, but those toggles are plastic and I didn't think they would be as robust as the original.  I considered press-fitting a roll-pin over the "bat" of a standard switch and securing it with JB Weld.  That would likely be fine,but I'd have to figure a way to drill through the other end for the strings, the roll pins are mild steel so they'd rust quickly and they are heavier than the existing setup.

 

So, while I am asking if someone knows of a better solution/direct replacement (I have not written to Maud yet, wondering if anyone has already asked) I wanted to let everyone know that I solved the problem, at least temporarily, by actually disassembling the existing switch itself and scraping/cleaning the contact points.  The switch came apart with a pocket knife and some care and there was really only one moving part inside it.  Once it was cleaned and reassembled it functioned just fine. 

 

OK, that's today's essay on "the little things" aboard Adagio. 

 

Be safe!

 

Gary W.
SM 209, Adagio

Galesville, MD

 

 


 


Re: Bilge Tube Float Switch

eric freedman
 

Its just a single pole single throw switch, if it works it is fine. You just have to add something to extend its length.
Fair Winds,
Eric
SM 376 Kimberlite

On September 19, 2020 at 2:33 PM "Courtney Gorman via groups.io" <Itsfun1@...> wrote:

Mod will have exactly what you need I replaced mine last year in the meantime I took some small tubing and made a temporary set up


On Sep 19, 2020, at 6:00 AM, Ross Hickey & Donna Hammond via groups.io <southernadventurer@...> wrote:

 Merhuba,

See attached photo.

Hope you are enjoying Turkey

Kind regards
Ross and Donna
SV Intrepid Kiwi
Currently in Turkey


<IMG_0173.jpeg>




Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPad

On Saturday, September 19, 2020, 9:36 am, Stefan Jeukendrup <sjeukendrup@...> wrote:

Hi Gary,

My bilge switch is an APEM On-Off switch with long toggle. Unfortunately the  631xxxx or 636xxxx number is no longer readable...
The number might be 631H/2-5 according to the datasheet on https://tr.farnell.com/apem/637h/toggle-switch-spdt-10a-250vac/dp/2888957


For the exact configuration please check the number on the switch that starts with 631..... and let us know.

The black nylon string is attached using polyolefin adhesive heat shrinkable tubing

Hope this helps you,


Stefan Jeukendrup
sv Malaka Queen
SM2k # 348 @Turkey
<IMG_0173.jpeg>

 

 


locked Re: Batteries starting to get weak - MMM - What to do -

Scott SV Tengah
 

I used to own and race BMWs and was a big fan of them.

Previously, they recommended oil changes every 3,000 miles. When they started including free oil changes, suddenly their recommendation was that you could go 20,000 miles or more between oil changes. Nothing changed in the engine nor the oil they used.

From a business perspective, it makes complete sense. Since BMW started including the oil changes, they rationally, as a business, determined that they could save money by only giving you 2 oil changes before your warranty ran out. Any damage due to extended oil change intervals would probably occur after that. When the customer was paying for oil changes and they wanted to protect their reputation, you were supposed to change the oil 6-7 times as often.

If I was a profit maximizing business, I would want my batteries to last the warranty period + 1 day. Or for you to get enough loss of capacity that you buy new ones. They go out of business if their customers only buy once every 10-15 years.

For this reason, I rely on statistically valid research from people who are not conflicted to make my decisions. When I leave the boat, I setup a simple programmable relay that drives a load will keep the SOC between 40-70%. Sure, there's one guy who seemed to do ok (in 1 out of 2 tests) when he goes against the non-conflicted researchers' advice...but he also sells lithium related products. It's not much effort and there's very little known downside to doing what the research says.

Or you can trust the guys trying to sell you stuff and who have a strong incentive for you to buy from them again once the warranty period ends.



--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

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